Looks aren't everything. Believe me, I'm a model. | Cameron Russell | TED

Translator: Joseph Geni Reviewer: Morton Bast

Translator: Maria Solà Capella Reviewer: Blanca Busquets

Hi. My name is Cameron Russell,

Hola. Em dic Cameron Russell,

and for the last little while, I've been a model.

i des de fa un temps

sóc model.

Actually, for 10 years.

De fet, des de fa 10 anys.

And I feel like

Sento que hi ha una tensió incòmoda

there's an uncomfortable tension in the room right now

a la sala ara mateix

because I should not have worn this dress.

perquè no hauria d'haver-me posat vestit. (Riures)

(Laughter)

Per sort he portat un canvi de vestuari.

So luckily, I brought an outfit change.

This is the first outfit change on the TED stage,

Aquest és el primer canvi de vestuari en un escenari de TED,

so you guys are pretty lucky to witness it, I think.

així que crec que sou molt afortunats de veure-ho.

If some of the women were really horrified when I came out,

Si alguna dona s'ha esgarrifat de debò quan he sortit,

you don't have to tell me now, but I'll find out later on Twitter.

no cal que m'ho digui ara, ja ho veuré després al Twitter.

(Riures)

(Laughter)

I'd also note that I'm quite privileged

També penso que sóc bastant privilegiada

to be able to transform what you think of me

per poder canviar el que penseu de mi

in a very brief 10 seconds.

en tan sols 10 segons.

Not everybody gets to do that.

No tothom té la oportunitat de fer-ho.

These heels are very uncomfortable, so good thing I wasn't going to wear them.

Aquests talons són molt incòmodes,

que bé que no els hagi de dur.

The worst part is putting this sweater over my head,

La pitjor part és posar-me aquest jersei pel cap,

perquè és quan us rieu de mi,

because that's when you'll all laugh at me,

així que no feu res mentre me'l posi pel cap.

so don't do anything while it's over my head.

Bé.

All right.

I per què he fet això?

So, why did I do that?

That was awkward.

Ha sigut estrany.

(Laughter)

Bé,

Well --

(Laughter)

Hopefully not as awkward as that picture.

espero que no tan estrany com aquesta fotografia.

Image is powerful,

La imatge és poderosa,

but also, image is superficial.

però també superficial.

I just totally transformed what you thought of me, in six seconds.

Acabo de transformar totalment el que pensàveu de mi en sis segons.

And in this picture,

I en aquesta fotografia,

I had actually never had a boyfriend in real life.

encara no havia tingut cap xicot en la vida real.

I was totally uncomfortable,

Estava molt incòmoda i el fotògraf

and the photographer was telling me to arch my back

em deia que arquegés l'esquena i posés la mà

and put my hand in that guy's hair.

sobre el cabell d'aquell noi.

And of course, barring surgery,

I, a part de la cirurgia, és clar,

or the fake tan that I got two days ago for work,

o del bronzejat falç que m'havia fet dos dies abans per la feina,

there's very little that we can do to transform how we look,

hi ha molt poques coses que podem fer per transformar el nostre aspecte,

and how we look, though it is superficial and immutable,

i el nostre aspecte, tot i que és superficial i immutable,

has a huge impact on our lives.

té un gran impacte en les nostres vides.

So today, for me, being fearless means being honest.

Així que avui, per mi, ser intrèpida significa ser honesta.

And I am on this stage because I am a model.

I estic sobre aquest escenari perquè sóc model.

I am on this stage because I am a pretty, white woman,

Estic sobre aquest escenari perquè sóc una dona bonica i blanca

and in my industry, we call that a sexy girl.

i a la meva indústria d'això en diem una noia sexy.

I'm going to answer the questions that people always ask me,

I contestaré a les preguntes que la gent sempre em fa,

però amb un gir honest.

but with an honest twist.

So the first question is, how do you become a model?

La primera pregunta és, com et vas convertir en model?

I always just say, "Oh, I was scouted,"

I sempre dic simplement, "Oh, em van trobar", però això no significa res.

but that means nothing.

The real way that I became a model

La verdadera raó per la que em vaig convertir en model

is I won a genetic lottery, and I am the recipient of a legacy,

és perquè vaig guanyar una loteria genètica i sóc la receptora d'un llegat,

and maybe you're wondering what is a legacy.

i potser us pregunteu què és un llegat.

Well, for the past few centuries

Bé, durant els últims segles

we have defined beauty not just as health and youth

hem definit la bellesa no tan sols com a salut i joventut

and symmetry that we're biologically programmed to admire,

i simetria que és el que estem programats biològicament per admirar,

but also as tall, slender figures,

sinó també com a figures altes i esveltes,

and femininity and white skin.

feminitat i pell blanca.

And this is a legacy that was built for me,

I aquest és el llegat que es va construir per mi

i és un llegat del qual me n'he aprofitat.

and it's a legacy that I've been cashing out on.

And I know there are people in the audience

Sé que hi ha gent al públic

who are skeptical at this point,

que són escèptics ara mateix

and maybe there are some fashionistas who are like,

i potser hi ha alguns "fashionistas" que diran

"Wait. Naomi. Tyra. Joan Smalls. Liu Wen."

"Espera. Naomi. Tyra. Joan Smalls. Liu Wen."

And first, I commend you on your model knowledge. Very impressive.

Primer, lloo els vostres coneixements sobre models. Molt impressionant.

(Laughter)

(Riures)

But unfortunately, I have to inform you that in 2007,

Però desgraciadament us haig d'informar que el 2007,

a very inspired NYU Ph.D. student

un estudiant de doctorat molt inspirat de la Universitat de Nova York va contar

counted all the models on the runway, every single one that was hired,

totes les models de la passarel·la, cada una de les que va ser contractada

and of the 677 models that were hired,

i de les 677 models contractades,

only 27, or less than four percent, were non-white.

només 27, o menys del quatre per cent, no eren blanques.

The next question people always ask is,

L'altra pregunta que la gent sempre em pregunta és

"Can I be a model when I grow up?"

"Puc ser model quan sigui gran?"

And the first answer is, "I don't know, they don't put me in charge of that."

I la primera resposta és, "No ho sé, no estic a càrrec d'això".

Però la segona resposta i el que realment vull dir a aquestes nenes és, "Per què?"

But the second answer,

and what I really want to say to these little girls is,

"Why? You know? You can be anything.

Saps què? Pots ser qualsevol cosa.

You could be the President of the United States,

Podries ser la Presidenta dels Estats Units,

or the inventor of the next Internet,

o l'inventora del pròxim Internet,

o una poeta cirurgiana cardiotoràcica ninja,

or a ninja cardiothoracic surgeon poet,

which would be awesome, because you'd be the first one."

que seria genial, perquè series la primera".

(Laughter)

(Riures)

If, after this amazing list, they still are like,

Si després d'aquesta increïble llista encara diuen,

"No, no, Cameron, I want to be a model,"

"No, no, Cameron, jo vull ser model,"

llavors dic, "Sigues la meva cap".

well, then I say, "Be my boss."

Because I'm not in charge of anything,

Perquè jo no m'encarrego de res,

i tu podries ser la cap de redacció de la Vogue americana

and you could be the editor in chief of American Vogue

o la directora de H&M, o la pròxima Steven Meisel.

or the CEO of H&M, or the next Steven Meisel.

Saying that you want to be a model when you grow up

Dir que vols ser model quan siguis gran

is akin to saying that you want to win the Powerball when you grow up.

és el mateix que dir que vols guanyar la loteria quan siguis gran.

Està fora del teu control, i és increïble,

It's out of your control, and it's awesome,

and it's not a career path.

i no és una carrera professional.

I will demonstrate for you now 10 years of accumulated model knowledge,

Ara us demostraré 10 anys de coneixement de model acumulat,

because unlike cardiothoracic surgeons,

perquè, a diferència dels cirurgians cardiotoràcics,

it can just be distilled right now.

es pot condensar en un moment.

So, if the photographer is right there,

Així que si el fotògraf està just aquí

the light is right there, like a nice HMI,

i la llum està allà, com un bonica HMI,

and the client says, "We want a walking shot,"

i el client diu, "Cameron, volem una foto caminant,"

bé doncs aquesta cama va primer, maca i llarga, aquest braç va endarrere, aquest braç endavant,

this leg goes first, nice and long, this arm goes back, this arm goes forward,

el cap està a tres quarts i tu només vas endavant i endarrere,

the head is at three quarters, and you just go back and forth,

només s'ha de fer això i llavors mires als teus amics imaginaris,

just do that, and then you look back at your imaginary friends,

300, 400, 500 vegades. (Riures)

300, 400, 500 times.

(Laughter)

It will look something like this.

Sortirà alguna cosa així. (Riures)

(Laughter)

Hopefully less awkward than that one in the middle.

Amb sort una mica menys estranya que la del mig.

That was -- I don't know what happened there.

No sé que va passar allà.

Unfortunately, after you've gone to school,

Desafortunadament, després d'haver anat a l'escola,

and you have a résumé and you've done a few jobs,

tenir un currículum i fer algunes feines,

ja no pots dir res més,

you can't say anything anymore,

ja que si dius que vols ser la Presidenta dels Estats Units,

so if you say you want to be the President of the United States,

però al teu currículum hi posa "Model de roba interior: 10 anys",

but your résumé reads, "Underwear Model: 10 years,"

la gent et mirarà de forma estranya.

people give you a funny look.

Una altra pregunta que la gent sempre em pregunta és, "Retoquen totes les fotos?"

The next question is, "Do they retouch all the photos?"

And yeah, they pretty much retouch all the photos,

I sí, gairebé retoquen totes les fotos,

però això només és una petita part de tot el que passa.

but that is only a small component of what's happening.

Aquesta va ser la primera foto que em vaig fer,

This picture is the very first picture that I ever took,

i també va ser la primera vegada que em vaig posar un biquini,

and it's also the very first time that I had worn a bikini,

and I didn't even have my period yet.

ni tan sols havia tingut la meva primera regla encara.

I know we're getting personal, but I was a young girl.

Ja sé que això és molt personal, però

era una noia jove.

This is what I looked like with my grandma just a few months earlier.

Així és com era jo amb la meva àvia tan sols uns mesos abans.

Aquesta sóc jo el mateix dia que aquesta foto.

Here's me on the same day as this shoot.

My friend got to come.

La meva amiga va poder venir amb mi.

Here's me at a slumber party a few days before I shot French Vogue.

Aquesta sóc jo en una festa de pijames uns dies abans de fer-me fotos per la Vogue francesa.

Here's me on the soccer team and in V Magazine.

Aquesta sóc jo amb l'equip de futbol i a la revista V.

And here's me today.

I aquesta sóc jo avui.

And I hope what you're seeing

I espero que el que veieu és que

is that these pictures are not pictures of me.

aquestes fotos no són fotos meves.

They are constructions,

Són construccions,

and they are constructions by a group of professionals,

són construccions fetes per un grup de professionals,

by hairstylists and makeup artists and photographers and stylists

perruquers, maquilladors, fotògrafs, estilistes

and all of their assistants and pre-production and post-production,

i tots els seus assistents i preproducció i postproducció,

ells han construït això. Aquesta no sóc jo.

and they build this.

That's not me.

Okay, so the next question people always ask me is,

Val, una altra pregunta que la gent sempre em fa és,

"Aconsegueixes coses de franc?"

"Do you get free stuff?"

(Laughter)

I do have too many 8-inch heels which I never get to wear,

Sí que tinc massa sabates amb un taló de 20 centímetres que no em puc posar mai,

except for earlier,

excepte abans,

but the free stuff that I get is the free stuff that I get in real life,

però les coses de franc que aconsegueixo

són les coses de franc que aconsegueixo a la vida real i això és del que no ens agrada parlar.

and that's what we don't like to talk about.

Jo vaig créixer a Cambridge

I grew up in Cambridge,

and one time I went into a store and I forgot my money

i un dia vaig entrar en una botiga i m'havia deixat els diners

and they gave me the dress for free.

però em van donar el vestit de franc.

When I was a teenager, I was driving with my friend

Quan era adolescent, anava amb cotxe amb una amiga

who was an awful driver and she ran a red and of course,

que era molt mala conductora i es va passar un semàfor en vermell i, és clar,

ens van parar,

we got pulled over,

and all it took was a "Sorry, officer," and we were on our way.

tot el que vam necessitar va ser un "Ho sento, agent,"

per poder continuar el nostre camí.

And I got these free things because of how I look,

I he aconseguit aquestes coses de franc per la meva aparença,

not who I am, and there are people paying a cost

no per qui sóc, i hi ha gent que paga

for how they look and not who they are.

per la seva aparença i no per qui són.

I live in New York, and last year,

Visc a Nova York, i l'any passat,

of the 140,000 teenagers that were stopped and frisked,

de 140.000 adolescents que van ser parats i registrats,

86% of them were black and Latino, and most of them were young men.

el 86 per cent eren negres i llatins,

i la majoria eren homes joves.

And there are only 177,000 young black and Latino men in New York,

Tan sols hi ha 177.000 homes negres i llatins a Nova York,

so for them, it's not a question of, "Will I get stopped?"

així que per ells, no és qüestió de, "Em pararan?"

but "How many times will I get stopped? When will I get stopped?"

sinó de "Quantes vegades em pararan? Quan em pararan?"

When I was researching this talk,

Quan investigava aquesta conferència,

vaig descobrir que de totes les noies de 13 anys dels Estats Units,

I found out that of the 13-year-old girls in the United States,

53% don't like their bodies,

al 53 per cent no els agrada el seu cos,

and that number goes to 78% by the time that they're 17.

i aquest número puja al 78 per cent quan arriben als 17.

La última pregunta que la gent em fa és,

So, the last question people ask me is,

"What is it like to be a model?"

"Com és ser model?"

And I think the answer that they're looking for is,

I crec que la resposta que busquen és,

"If you are a little bit skinnier and you have shinier hair,

"Si ets una mica més prima i tens el cabell més brillant,

you will be so happy and fabulous."

estaràs molt contenta i seràs fabulosa".

And when we're backstage,

I quan estem entre bastidors, donem una resposta

we give an answer that maybe makes it seem like that.

que potser fa que sembli això.

Diem, "És genial viatjar,

We say, "It's really amazing to travel, and it's amazing to get to work

i és genial poder treballar amb gent creativa, inspirada i apassionada".

with creative, inspired, passionate people."

And those things are true, but they're only one half of the story,

I aquestes coses són veritat, però només són la meitat de la història,

because the thing that we never say on camera,

perquè el que no diem mai davant de la càmera,

that I have never said on camera, is,

el que no he dit mai davant de la càmera,

"I am insecure."

és, "Sóc insegura".

And I'm insecure because I have to think about what I look like every day.

I sóc insegura perquè haig de pensar

en la meva aparença cada dia.

I si mai us pregunteu,

And if you ever are wondering,

"If I have thinner thighs and shinier hair, will I be happier?"

"Si tinc les cuixes més primes i el cabell més brillant seré més feliç?"

you just need to meet a group of models,

tan sols heu de conèixer un grup de models,

because they have the thinnest thighs, the shiniest hair and the coolest clothes,

perquè tenen les cuixes més primes, el cabell més brillant i la roba més maca,

però probablement són les dones més insegures físicament de tot el planeta.

and they're the most physically insecure women probably on the planet.

When I was writing this talk,

Així que quan escrivia aquesta conferència, vaig trobar molt difícil

I found it very difficult to strike an honest balance,

trobar un equilibri honest, perquè per una banda

because on the one hand,

em sentia molt incòmoda per sortir aquí i dir,

I felt very uncomfortable to come out here and say,

"Look I've received all these benefits from a deck stacked in my favor,"

"Mireu, he rebut totes aquests avantatges d'una baralla de cartes ordenada al meu favor",

i també em sentia molt incòmoda si continuava dient,

and it also felt really uncomfortable to follow that up with,

"i no sempre em fa sentir feliç".

"and it doesn't always make me happy."

But mostly it was difficult to unpack a legacy of gender and racial oppression

Però el més difícil va ser desfer un llegat

d'opressió de gènere i racial

when I am one of the biggest beneficiaries.

quan jo en sóc una de les beneficiàries més grans.

Però també estic contenta i em sento honrada d'estar aquí dalt

But I'm also happy and honored to be up here

and I think that it's great that I got to come

i crec que ha sigut genial que hagi pogut venir

before 10 or 20 or 30 years had passed and I'd had more agency in my career,

abans que hagin passat 10, 20 o 30 anys i hagi tingut més experiència en la meva carrera,

because maybe then I wouldn't tell the story of how I got my first job,

perquè potser llavors no explicaria la història de com vaig aconseguir la meva primera feina,

or maybe I wouldn't tell the story of how I paid for college,

o potser no explicaria la història de com vaig pagar la universitat,

which seems so important right now.

cosa que sembla molt important ara.

If there's a takeaway to this talk,

Si se'n pot treure alguna cosa d'aquesta conferència, espero que sigui

I hope it's that we all feel more comfortable acknowledging

que tots ens sentim més còmodes reconeixent

the power of image in our perceived successes

el poder de la imatge en els nostres èxits

and our perceived failures.

i en els nostres fracassos.

Thank you.

Gràcies. (Aplaudiments)

(Applause)