Looks aren't everything. Believe me, I'm a model. | Cameron Russell | TED

29,938,101 views ・ 2013-01-16

TED


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00:00
Translator: Joseph Geni Reviewer: Morton Bast
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翻译人员: JIN Huiying 校对人员: Xiaoma Cheng
00:15
Hi. My name is Cameron Russell,
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嗨,我是Cameron Russell,
00:18
and for the last little while, I've been a model.
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过去的一段时间里
我是个模特
00:24
Actually, for 10 years.
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其实,(我干了)10年。
00:28
And I feel like
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现在,我在这个房间内感到一种
00:30
there's an uncomfortable tension in the room right now
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令人不适的紧张感
00:33
because I should not have worn this dress.
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因为我不该穿这条裙子(笑声)
00:35
(Laughter)
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幸亏我带了另外一套
00:37
So luckily, I brought an outfit change.
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00:39
This is the first outfit change on the TED stage,
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这是TED讲台上第一次现场换装
00:43
so you guys are pretty lucky to witness it, I think.
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所以我觉得今天在场的人都很幸运啊,
00:46
If some of the women were really horrified when I came out,
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如果有些女士对的我出现感到惊恐
00:49
you don't have to tell me now, but I'll find out later on Twitter.
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不必现在告诉我。但我马上就会在twitter上知道的
(笑声)
00:52
(Laughter)
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00:57
I'd also note that I'm quite privileged
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我也想告诉各位我有幸
00:59
to be able to transform what you think of me
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能够在10秒内
01:02
in a very brief 10 seconds.
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改变我在你们心中的形象
01:05
Not everybody gets to do that.
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这不是所有人都能做得到的
01:08
These heels are very uncomfortable, so good thing I wasn't going to wear them.
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这双高跟鞋很不舒服
而好消息是我不打算穿他们
01:14
The worst part is putting this sweater over my head,
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最坏的消息是我要把这件毛衣从头上套进去
因为这时候你们会笑我
01:17
because that's when you'll all laugh at me,
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所以当我穿衣服的时候,(你们)什么都不要做
01:19
so don't do anything while it's over my head.
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可以了
01:23
All right.
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那么,我为什么做这个呢(现场换装)?
01:26
So, why did I do that?
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01:28
That was awkward.
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这很怪
01:30
(Laughter)
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01:32
Well --
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01:33
(Laughter)
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01:35
Hopefully not as awkward as that picture.
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希望不会像图片上这样怪
01:40
Image is powerful,
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图象是强大的
01:43
but also, image is superficial.
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但同时又是表面化的
01:48
I just totally transformed what you thought of me, in six seconds.
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我只是在6秒内就彻底改变了自己在你们心中的形象
01:52
And in this picture,
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在这张照片里
01:54
I had actually never had a boyfriend in real life.
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我事实上在现实生活中根本没有男朋友
01:57
I was totally uncomfortable,
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当摄影师
01:59
and the photographer was telling me to arch my back
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要我弓起背,摸那个男士的头发时
02:02
and put my hand in that guy's hair.
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我非常不自在
02:06
And of course, barring surgery,
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确定的是,除了手术
02:08
or the fake tan that I got two days ago for work,
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或像两天前我为了工作做的棕褐色(皮肤)
02:11
there's very little that we can do to transform how we look,
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我们基本上是没法改变外表的
02:15
and how we look, though it is superficial and immutable,
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我们的外表,虽然是表面化的,固定的
02:18
has a huge impact on our lives.
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还是极大地影响着我们的生活
02:23
So today, for me, being fearless means being honest.
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所以今天,对我来说,变的无惧就意味着要诚实
02:27
And I am on this stage because I am a model.
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今天我站在这里是因为我是个模特
02:30
I am on this stage because I am a pretty, white woman,
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我在这个舞台上是因为我是个漂亮的白种女性
02:34
and in my industry, we call that a sexy girl.
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在我们业内我们称此为“性感女孩”
02:37
I'm going to answer the questions that people always ask me,
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我要回答下人们常常问我的那些问题
(而且是)以一种诚实的方式
02:40
but with an honest twist.
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02:41
So the first question is, how do you become a model?
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第一个问题是,你是怎么成为模特的?
02:44
I always just say, "Oh, I was scouted,"
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我总是说:“我是被发现的”,但这其实什么也说明不了
02:46
but that means nothing.
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02:47
The real way that I became a model
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我成为模特的真正的原因是
02:50
is I won a genetic lottery, and I am the recipient of a legacy,
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我拥有极佳的基因,我是遗产的接受者
02:54
and maybe you're wondering what is a legacy.
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你可能在疑问什么是遗产.
02:56
Well, for the past few centuries
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呃,在过去的几个世纪里
02:59
we have defined beauty not just as health and youth
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我们定义里的美不仅仅只包括健康,年轻
03:04
and symmetry that we're biologically programmed to admire,
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和身材匀称这些我们出于生物本能去赞美的元素
03:08
but also as tall, slender figures,
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还包括高挑,苗条的体型,
03:11
and femininity and white skin.
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富有女性气质,白色皮肤这些特征。
03:15
And this is a legacy that was built for me,
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这就是我的遗产,
这就是我一直在兑现的遗产,
03:17
and it's a legacy that I've been cashing out on.
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03:19
And I know there are people in the audience
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我知道你们中有些人
03:21
who are skeptical at this point,
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可能对这个观点存疑
03:23
and maybe there are some fashionistas who are like,
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你们可能会举出一些时尚圈人物,例如
03:25
"Wait. Naomi. Tyra. Joan Smalls. Liu Wen."
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Naomi, Tyra, Joan Smalls和Liu Wen (前三位为黑人模特,第四位为中国模特)
03:28
And first, I commend you on your model knowledge. Very impressive.
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首先,我要表扬下你们对于模特界的了解令人印象深刻
03:31
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
03:33
But unfortunately, I have to inform you that in 2007,
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但不幸的是,我得告诉你们,在2007年时
03:36
a very inspired NYU Ph.D. student
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一名纽约大学的博士在启发之下
03:39
counted all the models on the runway, every single one that was hired,
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统计了所有在职模特的人数
03:43
and of the 677 models that were hired,
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在677名正式受雇模特中
03:46
only 27, or less than four percent, were non-white.
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只有27名,也就是不到百分之四,是非白种人
03:50
The next question people always ask is,
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下一个人们常问我的问题是
03:52
"Can I be a model when I grow up?"
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“我长大了能当模特吗?”
03:54
And the first answer is, "I don't know, they don't put me in charge of that."
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我的第一个答案是:“我也不知道,因为他们没让我来掌管这件事”
但第二个答案,也是我想对问问题的那些小姑娘说的是“为什么?”
03:58
But the second answer,
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03:59
and what I really want to say to these little girls is,
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04:02
"Why? You know? You can be anything.
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你知道吗?你可以选择任何的职业。
04:04
You could be the President of the United States,
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你可以成为美国总统
04:06
or the inventor of the next Internet,
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或是下一代互联网的发明者
或是个忍者般的心胸外科诗人,
04:08
or a ninja cardiothoracic surgeon poet,
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04:10
which would be awesome, because you'd be the first one."
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--这个不错,因为你会是第一个
04:13
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
04:15
If, after this amazing list, they still are like,
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如果,听完这些她们还是说
04:17
"No, no, Cameron, I want to be a model,"
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“不,不,Cameron,我想当模特”
我会说:“当我的老板吧”
04:19
well, then I say, "Be my boss."
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04:21
Because I'm not in charge of anything,
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因为我不能决定任何事
你可以成为美国Vogue杂志的主编
04:23
and you could be the editor in chief of American Vogue
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或是H&M的首席执行官,或下一个Steven Meisel(著名时尚摄影师)
04:25
or the CEO of H&M, or the next Steven Meisel.
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04:28
Saying that you want to be a model when you grow up
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说你长大后想当模特
04:30
is akin to saying that you want to win the Powerball when you grow up.
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就像你说你长大后想赢彩票一样
(能不能成为模特)不在你的掌控范围之内。当模特很棒
04:34
It's out of your control, and it's awesome,
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04:37
and it's not a career path.
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但它不是一个可规划的行业
04:39
I will demonstrate for you now 10 years of accumulated model knowledge,
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我将为大家展示我模特从业十年的一些经验
04:43
because unlike cardiothoracic surgeons,
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因为不像一个忍者般的心胸科诗人
04:45
it can just be distilled right now.
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它只能立足当下
04:48
So, if the photographer is right there,
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所以如果摄影师就在这里
04:51
the light is right there, like a nice HMI,
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灯光就在这里--比如漂亮的水银灯
04:53
and the client says, "We want a walking shot,"
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客户说:“Cameron,我想要一张走路时的快门照”
这条修长的美腿先迈步,这条手臂放在后面,这条手臂放前面
04:55
this leg goes first, nice and long, this arm goes back, this arm goes forward,
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露出四分之三侧脸,来来回回,
04:59
the head is at three quarters, and you just go back and forth,
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就这样,然后回头看你臆想中的朋友
05:02
just do that, and then you look back at your imaginary friends,
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300,400,500次(笑声)
05:05
300, 400, 500 times.
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05:06
(Laughter)
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05:08
It will look something like this.
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这看上去就像这样(笑声)
05:10
(Laughter)
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05:12
Hopefully less awkward than that one in the middle.
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希望不像中间那张那么怪
05:15
That was -- I don't know what happened there.
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我不知道那张是怎么回事儿
05:18
Unfortunately, after you've gone to school,
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现实是,当你毕业后
05:20
and you have a résumé and you've done a few jobs,
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有了简历,做过了几份工作
你就不能再说其它的了
05:22
you can't say anything anymore,
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所以如果你说你想成为美国总统
05:24
so if you say you want to be the President of the United States,
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但你的简历上写着:有十年工作经验的内衣模特
05:27
but your résumé reads, "Underwear Model: 10 years,"
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人们会笑着看你
05:29
people give you a funny look.
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下一个人们常问的问题是:“他们会修照片吗?”
05:31
The next question is, "Do they retouch all the photos?"
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05:33
And yeah, they pretty much retouch all the photos,
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是的,他们会修几乎所有照片
但这只是工作的一小部分
05:36
but that is only a small component of what's happening.
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这是我第一张模特照片
05:39
This picture is the very first picture that I ever took,
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也是我第一次穿比基尼
05:42
and it's also the very first time that I had worn a bikini,
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05:44
and I didn't even have my period yet.
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我基至还没有过月经
05:46
I know we're getting personal, but I was a young girl.
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我知道这有点私人,但
那时我还很年轻
05:49
This is what I looked like with my grandma just a few months earlier.
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这是那张照片几个月前我跟祖母一起拍的照片
这是拍照片当天
05:54
Here's me on the same day as this shoot.
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05:56
My friend got to come.
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我朋友跟我在一起
05:57
Here's me at a slumber party a few days before I shot French Vogue.
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这是我拍法国Vogue杂志前几天前在睡衣party上拍的照片
06:01
Here's me on the soccer team and in V Magazine.
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这是我在足球队和V杂志的照片
06:06
And here's me today.
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这是现在的我
06:07
And I hope what you're seeing
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我希望你们明白的是
06:09
is that these pictures are not pictures of me.
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这些不是我自己的照片
06:11
They are constructions,
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而是
06:13
and they are constructions by a group of professionals,
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由一群专业人士制出的图象,
06:16
by hairstylists and makeup artists and photographers and stylists
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(他们是)发型师,化装师,摄影师,造型师
06:19
and all of their assistants and pre-production and post-production,
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以及他们的助理,还有前期制作,后期制作
他们制造出了这些图象,而不是我
06:22
and they build this.
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06:23
That's not me.
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06:24
Okay, so the next question people always ask me is,
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下一个问题是
“你能得到免费的东西吗?”
06:27
"Do you get free stuff?"
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06:28
(Laughter)
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06:29
I do have too many 8-inch heels which I never get to wear,
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我确实有太多
06:32
except for earlier,
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从没机会穿的8英寸高跟鞋,
06:34
but the free stuff that I get is the free stuff that I get in real life,
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但是免费的东西
却是我在现实生活中得到的。而这恰恰是我们不愿意谈的
06:37
and that's what we don't like to talk about.
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我在剑桥市长大
06:40
I grew up in Cambridge,
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06:41
and one time I went into a store and I forgot my money
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有一次我走进一家商店却忘了带钱
06:43
and they gave me the dress for free.
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他们送了我一条裙子
06:46
When I was a teenager, I was driving with my friend
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十几岁时,我跟朋友一起开车
06:48
who was an awful driver and she ran a red and of course,
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她是个糟糕的司机,闯了红灯
我们被停车
06:51
we got pulled over,
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06:52
and all it took was a "Sorry, officer," and we were on our way.
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我只说了句:“长官抱歉”
我们就继续上路了
06:57
And I got these free things because of how I look,
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我得到这些是因为我的外表
07:00
not who I am, and there are people paying a cost
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而不是我是身份。有些人为了他们的外表
07:03
for how they look and not who they are.
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而不是身份付出了代价。
07:05
I live in New York, and last year,
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我住在纽约,去年
07:07
of the 140,000 teenagers that were stopped and frisked,
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有14万青年被停车搜身
07:11
86% of them were black and Latino, and most of them were young men.
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他们中百分之86是黑人和拉美人
大多数是年轻的男孩子
07:15
And there are only 177,000 young black and Latino men in New York,
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而在纽约年轻黑人和拉美男性总数只有17万7千
07:19
so for them, it's not a question of, "Will I get stopped?"
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所以,对他们来说,问题不是:“我会被停车吗”
07:22
but "How many times will I get stopped? When will I get stopped?"
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而是“我要被停几次?我什么时候会被停?“
07:25
When I was researching this talk,
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我在为这次演讲做调查时
发现在美国13岁女孩儿群体中
07:27
I found out that of the 13-year-old girls in the United States,
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07:30
53% don't like their bodies,
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百分之53不喜欢她们的身体
07:33
and that number goes to 78% by the time that they're 17.
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到了17岁,这一比例上升至百分之78。
那么最后一个问题是
07:37
So, the last question people ask me is,
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07:40
"What is it like to be a model?"
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”当模特是什么感觉?“
07:41
And I think the answer that they're looking for is,
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我猜他们期待的答案是
07:44
"If you are a little bit skinnier and you have shinier hair,
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”如果你再瘦一点儿,你的头发再有光泽一些
07:47
you will be so happy and fabulous."
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你就会很开心,很难以置信“
07:49
And when we're backstage,
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当在后台时,我们会给出一个
07:51
we give an answer that maybe makes it seem like that.
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像这样的答案。
我们说”能到处旅行
07:54
We say, "It's really amazing to travel, and it's amazing to get to work
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和有创造力的,热情的,灵感不断的人一起工作真的很棒”
07:57
with creative, inspired, passionate people."
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08:00
And those things are true, but they're only one half of the story,
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这不假,但这只是事实的一半
08:03
because the thing that we never say on camera,
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因为我们永远不会在镜头前说的是,
08:05
that I have never said on camera, is,
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我永远不会说的是,
08:08
"I am insecure."
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“我没有安全感“
08:10
And I'm insecure because I have to think about what I look like every day.
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因为我必须每天都要担心
我看上去怎么样
如果你曾经也想过
08:15
And if you ever are wondering,
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08:18
"If I have thinner thighs and shinier hair, will I be happier?"
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如果我的大腿更瘦,头发更好,我会更开心吗?
08:22
you just need to meet a group of models,
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你只要去看看模特就知道了
08:24
because they have the thinnest thighs, the shiniest hair and the coolest clothes,
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因为她们有最瘦的大腿,最漂亮的头发,最酷的衣服
而她们却可能是世界上最没有身理安全感的女人
08:28
and they're the most physically insecure women probably on the planet.
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08:32
When I was writing this talk,
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所以当我为这次演讲做准备时时,发现
08:33
I found it very difficult to strike an honest balance,
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很难为诚实找到一个平衡点。因为一方面
08:36
because on the one hand,
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如果我站在这儿,说
08:38
I felt very uncomfortable to come out here and say,
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08:40
"Look I've received all these benefits from a deck stacked in my favor,"
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”看,我凭着天生的优势得到了这么多东西,”心里会不舒服
可是如果这句话接着
08:44
and it also felt really uncomfortable to follow that up with,
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“可是这些都不能让我开心”也很不自在
08:47
"and it doesn't always make me happy."
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08:49
But mostly it was difficult to unpack a legacy of gender and racial oppression
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但最难的是去展现
性别和种族歧视的职业传统
08:55
when I am one of the biggest beneficiaries.
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因为我自己本身是最大的受益者
但同时我又很开心并受尊重的站在这里
08:59
But I'm also happy and honored to be up here
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09:01
and I think that it's great that I got to come
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趁着我还年轻,而不是已经工作了10,20或30年
09:04
before 10 or 20 or 30 years had passed and I'd had more agency in my career,
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和模特行业间有越来越多的阻隔(不能获得最直接的感觉)
09:08
because maybe then I wouldn't tell the story of how I got my first job,
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因为可能到那时我就不会讲我怎样得到第一份工作
09:11
or maybe I wouldn't tell the story of how I paid for college,
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怎样付大学学费
09:14
which seems so important right now.
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这些现在看来是如此重要的东西
09:17
If there's a takeaway to this talk,
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如果这次演讲能使你有所受益,我希望
09:19
I hope it's that we all feel more comfortable acknowledging
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是我们都能欣然接受
09:22
the power of image in our perceived successes
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图象的力量带来的我们所理解的成功
09:26
and our perceived failures.
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和我们所理解的失败
09:28
Thank you.
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谢谢(掌声)
09:30
(Applause)
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