Forget Shopping. Soon You'll Download Your New Clothes | Danit Peleg | TED Talks

Prevodilac: Marija Kojić Lektor: Mile Živković

In the past few months, I've been traveling for weeks at a time

Proteklih par meseci, putovala sam nedeljama

with only one suitcase of clothes.

sa samo jednim koferom odeće.

One day, I was invited to an important event,

Jednog dana, pozvana sam na važan događaj,

and I wanted to wear something special and new for it.

i želela sam da obučem nešto posebno za tu priliku.

So I looked through my suitcase and I couldn't find anything to wear.

Tako da sam pretražila kofer i nisam mogla tako nešto da nađem.

I was lucky to be at the technology conference on that day,

Srećom, toga dana sam bila na tehnološkoj konferenciji

and I had access to 3D printers.

i imala sam pristup 3D štampačima.

So I quickly designed a skirt on my computer,

Brzo sam dizajnirala suknju na mom računaru,

and I loaded the file on the printer.

i učitala datoteku na štampač.

It just printed the pieces overnight.

On je preko noći ištampao delove.

The next morning, I just took all the pieces,

Sledećeg jutra, samo sam uzela sve delove,

assembled them together in my hotel room,

i spojila ih u svojoj hotelskoj sobi,

and this is actually the skirt that I'm wearing right now.

i to je zapravo suknja koju sada nosim.

(Applause)

(Aplauz)

So it wasn't the first time that I printed clothes.

To nije bio prvi put da sam štampala odeću.

For my senior collection at fashion design school,

Za moju matursku kolekciju na modnoj dizajnerskoj školi,

I decided to try and 3D print an entire fashion collection from my home.

odlučila sam da pokušam da ištampam čitavu modnu kolekciju od kuće, u 3D-u.

The problem was that I barely knew anything about 3D printing,

Problem je bio u tome da nisam skoro ništa znala o 3D štampanju,

and I had only nine months to figure out how to print five fashionable looks.

i imala sam samo devet meseci da shvatim kako da ištampam pet modernih komada.

I always felt most creative when I worked from home.

Uvek sam bila najkreativnija kada sam radila od kuće.

I loved experimenting with new materials,

Volela sam da eksperimentišem sa novim materijalima,

and I always tried to develop new techniques

i uvek sam pokušavala da razvijem nove tehnike

to make the most unique textiles for my fashion projects.

za pravljenje jedinstvenih tkanina za moje modne projekte.

I loved going to old factories and weird stores

Volela sam da posećujem stare fabrike ili čudne prodavnice

in search of leftovers of strange powders and weird materials,

u potrazi za ostacima čudnih praškova i čudnih materijala,

and then bring them home to experiment on.

i onda sam ih donosila kući da eksperimentišem.

As you can probably imagine,

Kao što možete da zamislite,

my roommates didn't like that at all.

mojim cimerima se to uopšte nije svidelo.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

So I decided to move on to working with big machines,

Tako da sam odlučila da se prebacim na rad sa velikim mašinama,

ones that didn't fit in my living room.

koje nisu mogle da stanu u moju dnevnu sobu.

I love the exact and the custom work I can do

Sviđa mi se rad po narudžbini koji mogu da napravim

with all kinds of fashion technologies,

uz pomoć raznih modnih tehnologija,

like knitting machines and laser cutting and silk printing.

kao što su mašine za štrikanje, lasersko sečenje i štampanje svile.

One summer break, I came here to New York for an internship

Tokom letnjeg raspusta, došla sam u Njujork radi prakse

at a fashion house in Chinatown.

u modnoj kući u Kineskoj četvrti.

We worked on two incredible dresses that were 3D printed.

Radili smo na dve neverovatne haljine koje smo ištampali u 3D-u.

They were amazing -- like you can see here.

Bile su divne - kao što možete da vidite.

But I had a few issues with them.

Ipak, imala sam neke probleme sa njima.

They were made from hard plastics and that's why they were very breakable.

Bile su napravljene od čvrste plastike i zbog toga su bile veoma lomljive.

The models couldn't sit in them,

Modeli nisu mogli da sede u njima,

and they even got scratched from the plastics under their arms.

čak su se i izgrebale o plastiku kod pazuha.

With 3D printing, the designers had so much freedom

Sa 3D štampanjem, dizajneri su dobili slobodu

to make the dresses look exactly like they wanted,

da prave haljine

koje izgledaju baš kao što su zamislili,

but still, they were very dependent on big and expensive industrial printers

ipak, opet su veoma zavisili od velikih i skupih industrijskih štampača

that were located in a lab far from their studio.

koji su se nalazili u laboratorijama daleko od njihovih ateljea.

Later that year, a friend gave me a 3D printed necklace,

Posle te godine, prijatelj mi je poklonio 3D ištampanu ogrlicu,

printed using a home printer.

ištampanu na kućnom štampaču.

I knew that these printers were much cheaper

Znala sam da su ovi štampači mnogo jeftiniji

and much more accessible than the ones we used at my internship.

i mnogo pristupačniji od onih koje smo koristili na mojoj praksi.

So I looked at the necklace,

Pogledala sam ogrlicu,

and then I thought, "If I can print a necklace from home,

i pomislila: „Ako mogu da ištampam ogrlicu

why not print my clothes from home, too?"

od kuće,

zašto da ne ištampam i odeću od kuće?”

I really liked the idea that I wouldn't have to go to the market

Veoma mi se svidela ideja da neću morati da idem u prodavnicu

and pick fabrics that someone else chose to sell --

i biram materijale koje neko drugi izabere da proda -

I could just design them and print them directly from home.

mogu jednostavno da ih dizajniram i ištampam pravo od kuće.

I found a small makerspace,

Pronašla sam mali veb seminar,

where I learned everything I know about 3D printing.

gde sam naučila sve što sada znam o štampanju u 3D-u.

Right away, they literally gave me the key to the lab,

Bukvalno odmah su mi dali ključ od laboratorije,

so I could experiment into the night, every night.

tako da sam mogla da eksperimentišem noću, svake noći.

The main challenge was to find the right filament for printing clothes with.

Glavni izazov je bio da pronađem vlakno pogodno za štampanje odeće.

So what is a filament?

Dakle, šta je vlakno?

Filament is the material you feed the printer with.

Vlakno je materijal kojim hranite štampač.

And I spent a month or so experimenting with PLA,

Tako da sam oko mesec dana eksperimentisala sa PLK-om,

which is a hard and scratchy, breakable material.

koji je čvrst i lako grebljiv, lomljiv materijal.

The breakthrough came when I was introduced to Filaflex,

Pomak se desio kada sam pronašla Filafleks

which is a new kind of filament.

koje je nova vrsta vlakna.

It's strong, yet very flexible.

Jak je, ali veoma fleksibilan.

And with it, I was able to print the first garment,

I na njemu, mogla sam da ištampam prvi komad odeće,

the red jacket that had the word "Liberté" --

crvenu jaknu koja je imala ušiven natpis „Liberté” -

"freedom" in French --

sloboda na francuskom.

embedded into it.

I chose this word because I felt so empowered and free

Izabrala sam ovu reč jer sam se osećala osnaženo i slobodno

when I could just design a garment from my home

jer sam mogla da dizajniram komad

and then print it by myself.

od kuće

i sama da ga ištampam.

And actually, you can easily download this jacket,

I zapravo, možete lako da preuzmete ovu jaknu sa Interneta,

and easily change the word to something else.

i jednostavno promenite reč u neku drugu.

For example, your name or your sweetheart's name.

Na primer, u vaše ime ili ime vašeg partnera.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

So the printer plates are small,

Dakle, ploče štampača su male,

so I had to piece the garment together, just like a puzzle.

tako da sam slagala delove komada, kao što bih slagala slagalicu.

And I wanted to solve another challenge.

Želela sam da se izborim sa još jednim izazovom.

I wanted to print textiles

Želela sam da štampam tkanine

that I would use just like regular fabrics.

koje bih koristila kao i uobičajene materijale.

That's when I found an open-source file

Tada sam pronašla datoteku otvorenog tipa

from an architect who designed a pattern that I love.

koju je započeo dizajner uzorka koji obožavam.

And with it, I was able to print a beautiful textile

Sa tim, mogla sam da ištampam predivnu tkaninu

that I would use just like a regular fabric.

koju sam koristila baš kao i uobičajene materijale.

And it actually even looks a little bit like lace.

Čak pomalo liči na čipku.

So I took his file and I modified it, and changed it, played with it --

Uzela sam ovu datoteku, prilagodila je, izmenila je, igrala se sa njom -

many kinds of versions out of it.

sa njenim mnogobrojnim verzijama.

And I needed to print another 1,500 more hours

Trebalo je da štampam još 1500 sati

to complete printing my collection.

da bih završila sa štampanjem moje kolekcije.

So I brought six printers to my home and just printed 24-7.

Tako da sam ponela šest štampača kući i samo štampala po ceo dan svakog dana.

And this is actually a really slow process,

Ovo je zapravo veoma spor proces,

but let's remember the Internet was significantly slower 20 years ago,

no hajde da se prisetimo da je Internet bio mnogo sporiji

pre 20 godina,

so 3D printing will also accelerate

tako da će se i 3D štampanje ubrzati

and in no time you'll be able to print a T-Shirt in your home

i za kratko vreme moći ćete da štampate majice kod kuće

in just a couple of hours, or even minutes.

za samo nekoliko sati, ili čak nekoliko minuta.

So you guys, you want to see what it looks like?

Dakle, narode želite li da vidite kako to izgleda?

Audience: Yeah!

Publika: Da!

(Aplauz)

(Applause)

Danit Peleg: Rebecca is wearing one of my five outfits.

Danit Peleg: Rebeka je obučena u jednu od mojih pet kombinacija.

Almost everything here she's wearing, I printed from my home.

Skoro sve što ona nosi, ja sam štampala kod kuće.

Even her shoes are printed.

Čak i njene cipele su štampane.

Audience: Wow!

Publika: Vau!

Audience: Cool!

Publika: Kul!

(Applause)

(Aplauz)

Danit Peleg: Thank you, Rebecca.

Danit Peleg: Hvala ti, Rebeka.

(To audience) Thank you, guys.

(Publici) Hvala vam, narode.

So I think in the future, materials will evolve,

Mislim da će se u budućnosti, materijali razviti,

and they will look and feel like fabrics we know today,

i izgledaće i biti na dodir kao i tkanine za koje znamo danas,

like cotton or silk.

kao pamuk ili svila.

Imagine personalized clothes that fit exactly to your measurements.

Zamislite personalizovanu odeću koja tačno odgovara vašim merama.

Music was once a very physical thing.

Muzika je nekada bila veoma fizička stvar.

You would have to go to the record shop and buy CDs,

Morali ste da odete do prodavnice

i kupite CD-e,

but now you can just download the music --

sada možete samo

da preuzmete muziku sa Interneta -

digital music --

digitalnu muziku -

directly to your phone.

direktno na vaš telefon.

Fashion is also a very physical thing.

Moda je takođe veoma fizička stvar.

And I wonder what our world will look like

Pitam se kako će naš svet izgledati

when our clothes will be digital, just like this skirt is.

kada naša odeća postane digitalna, baš kao što je i ova suknja.

Thank you so much.

Hvala vam puno.

(Applause)

(Aplauz)

[Thank You]

[Hvala vam]

(Applause)

(Aplauz)