Forget Shopping. Soon You'll Download Your New Clothes | Danit Peleg | TED Talks

Prevoditelj: Matko Bošnjak Recezent: Ivan Stamenković

In the past few months, I've been traveling for weeks at a time

Zadnjih sam par mjeseci putovala po nekoliko tjedana za redom

with only one suitcase of clothes.

samo s jednim kovčegom odjeće.

One day, I was invited to an important event,

Jednog dana su me pozvali na važan događaj,

and I wanted to wear something special and new for it.

za koji sam htjela odjenuti nešto posebno i novo.

So I looked through my suitcase and I couldn't find anything to wear.

Stoga sam tražila po kovčegu no nisam uspjela pronaći ništa takvo.

I was lucky to be at the technology conference on that day,

Na sreću, prisustvovala sam tehnološkoj konferenciji taj dan,

and I had access to 3D printers.

i imala pristup 3D pisaču.

So I quickly designed a skirt on my computer,

Nabrzinu sam dizajnirala suknju na računalu,

and I loaded the file on the printer.

i učitala datoteku u pisač.

It just printed the pieces overnight.

Dijelovi su se ispisali preko noći.

The next morning, I just took all the pieces,

Sljedeće jutro, Uzela sam djeliće haljine,

assembled them together in my hotel room,

sastavila ih u hotelskoj sobi,

and this is actually the skirt that I'm wearing right now.

i to je zapravo suknja koju trenutno nosim.

(Applause)

(Pljesak)

So it wasn't the first time that I printed clothes.

Ok, nije prvi puta da sam isprintala odjeću.

For my senior collection at fashion design school,

Za svoj završni rad u modnoj dizajnerskoj školi,

I decided to try and 3D print an entire fashion collection from my home.

Odlučila sam isprobati 3D isprintati čitavu modnu kolekciju iz svog doma.

The problem was that I barely knew anything about 3D printing,

Problem je da sam tada jedva išta znala o 3D printanju,

and I had only nine months to figure out how to print five fashionable looks.

a imala sam samo 9 mjeseci skužiti kako isprintati pet modnih ogleda.

I always felt most creative when I worked from home.

Uvijek sam se osjećala najkreativnijom radeći od doma.

I loved experimenting with new materials,

Obožavala sam eksperimentirati s novim materijalima

and I always tried to develop new techniques

i oduvijek sam pokušavala razviti nove tehnike

to make the most unique textiles for my fashion projects.

da bih stvorila jedinstvene tekstile za svoje modne projekte.

I loved going to old factories and weird stores

Obožavala sam ići u stare tvornice i neobične trgovine

in search of leftovers of strange powders and weird materials,

u potrazi za ostacima neobičnih prašaka i čudnih materijala,

and then bring them home to experiment on.

i donositi ih doma za eksperimentiranje.

As you can probably imagine,

Vjerojatno možete zamisliti,

my roommates didn't like that at all.

da se mojim cimerima to uopće nije sviđalo.

(Laughter)

(Smijeh)

So I decided to move on to working with big machines,

Tako da sam odlučila početi raditi s velikom mašinerijom,

ones that didn't fit in my living room.

onom koja nije mogla stati u moju dnevnu sobu

I love the exact and the custom work I can do

Obožavam preciznost i prilagođenost koju mogu

with all kinds of fashion technologies,

postići sa svim oblicima modne tehnologije,

like knitting machines and laser cutting and silk printing.

poput šivaćih strojeva, laserskog izrezivanja i printanja svile.

One summer break, I came here to New York for an internship

Za vrijeme jednih ljetnih praznika, došla sam u New York na praksu

at a fashion house in Chinatown.

u modnu kuću u kinesku četvrt.

We worked on two incredible dresses that were 3D printed.

Radili smo na dvije nevjerojatne 3D printane haljine.

They were amazing -- like you can see here.

Bile su nevjerojatne -- kao što možete vidjeti..

But I had a few issues with them.

Međutim, bilo je par problema s njima.

They were made from hard plastics and that's why they were very breakable.

Bile su izrađene od tvrde plastike te su stoga bile prilično lomljive.

The models couldn't sit in them,

Modeli nisu mogli sjediti u njima

and they even got scratched from the plastics under their arms.

i čak bi se ogrebali od tu plastiku ispod ruku.

With 3D printing, the designers had so much freedom

S 3D printanjem, dizajneri su dobili nevjerojatnu slobodu

to make the dresses look exactly like they wanted,

u kreiranju haljina baš kako su ih zamislili,

but still, they were very dependent on big and expensive industrial printers

međutim, i dalje su ovisili o velikim i skupocjenim industrijskim printerima

that were located in a lab far from their studio.

koji se nalaze u laboratorijima daleko od njihovih studija.

Later that year, a friend gave me a 3D printed necklace,

Kasnije te godine, prijatelj mi je poklonio 3D isprintanu ogrlicu,

printed using a home printer.

isprintanu koristeći kućni pisač.

I knew that these printers were much cheaper

Znala sam da su ti pisači višestruko jeftiniji

and much more accessible than the ones we used at my internship.

i bitno dostupniji od onih koje smo koristili za vrijeme moje prakse.

So I looked at the necklace,

Stoga sam gledajući ogrlicu,

and then I thought, "If I can print a necklace from home,

pomislila "ukoliko mogu isprintati ogrlicu doma,

why not print my clothes from home, too?"

zašto ne bih mogla isprintati odjeću doma"?

I really liked the idea that I wouldn't have to go to the market

Zbilja mi se svidjela ideja da ne moram ići na tržnicu

and pick fabrics that someone else chose to sell --

i odabirati tkanine koje je netko drugi odlučio prodati,

I could just design them and print them directly from home.

jednostavno sam ih mogla dizajnirati i printati direktno od doma.

I found a small makerspace,

Pronašla sam malenu manufakturu,

where I learned everything I know about 3D printing.

gdje sam saznala sve što znam o 3D printanju.

Right away, they literally gave me the key to the lab,

Odmah su mi u startu dali ključeve laboratorija,

so I could experiment into the night, every night.

da mogu eksperimentirati kasno u noć, svaku noć.

The main challenge was to find the right filament for printing clothes with.

Glavni izazov je bio pronaći odgovarajuće filamente za printanje odjeće.

So what is a filament?

Ok, no što je filament?

Filament is the material you feed the printer with.

Filament je materijal kojim 3D pisač printa.

And I spent a month or so experimenting with PLA,

I provela sam mjesec dana eksperimentirajući s PLA-om

which is a hard and scratchy, breakable material.

koji je tvrd i lomljiv materijal koji svrbi.

The breakthrough came when I was introduced to Filaflex,

Otkriće je došlo kada sam upoznala Filaflex,

which is a new kind of filament.

koji je novi tip filamenta.

It's strong, yet very flexible.

Čvrst je, no istovremeno i vrlo fleksibilan.

And with it, I was able to print the first garment,

I s njime sam napokon mogla isprintati svoj prvi odjevni predmet,

the red jacket that had the word "Liberté" --

crvenu jaknu koja je imala riječ "Liberté" na sebi --

"freedom" in French --

"sloboda" na Francuskom,

embedded into it.

ugrađenu u sebe.

I chose this word because I felt so empowered and free

Odabrala sam ovu riječ jer sam se osjećala moćno i slobodno

when I could just design a garment from my home

jer sam mogla dizajnirati svoju odjeću od doma

and then print it by myself.

i sama je isprintati po potrebi.

And actually, you can easily download this jacket,

I zapravo, možete jednostavno skinuti ovu jaknu s Interneta,

and easily change the word to something else.

i jednostavno promijeniti riječ u neku drugu.

For example, your name or your sweetheart's name.

Na primjer, u svoje ime, ili ime svoje voljene osobe.

(Laughter)

(Smijeh)

So the printer plates are small,

Ploče printera su malene,

so I had to piece the garment together, just like a puzzle.

tako da sam morala pospajati dijelove odjeće skupa, poput puzle.

And I wanted to solve another challenge.

I htjela sam riješiti novi izazov.

I wanted to print textiles

Htjela sam printati tkanine

that I would use just like regular fabrics.

koje bih koristila poput obične tkanine.

That's when I found an open-source file

Tada sam pronašla datoteku otvorenog koda

from an architect who designed a pattern that I love.

arhitekta koji je dizajnirao uzorak koji obožavam.

And with it, I was able to print a beautiful textile

I s njome sam uspjela isprintati prekrasnu tkaninu

that I would use just like a regular fabric.

koju bih koristila poput obične tkanine.

And it actually even looks a little bit like lace.

Zapravo i podsjeća malo na čipku.

So I took his file and I modified it, and changed it, played with it --

Preuzela sam tu datoteku, modificirala ju, mijenjala, igrala se s njom--

many kinds of versions out of it.

s mnogim inačicama iste.

And I needed to print another 1,500 more hours

I morala sam printati dodatnih 1500 sati

to complete printing my collection.

da bih dovršila printanje svoje kolekcije.

So I brought six printers to my home and just printed 24-7.

Tako da sam donijela šest printera doma i printala cijeli dan, svaki dan.

And this is actually a really slow process,

To je zaista jako spor proces

but let's remember the Internet was significantly slower 20 years ago,

no sjetite se da je Internet bio bitno sporiji prije 20 godina,

so 3D printing will also accelerate

tako da će se i 3D printanje ubrzati

and in no time you'll be able to print a T-Shirt in your home

i uskoro ćete biti u mogućnosti isprintati T-shirt doma

in just a couple of hours, or even minutes.

u samo nekoliko sati, ili minuta.

So you guys, you want to see what it looks like?

Ok, želite li vidjeti kako to izgleda na kraju?

Audience: Yeah!

Publika: Da!

(Applause)

(Pljesak)

Danit Peleg: Rebecca is wearing one of my five outfits.

Rebecca nosi jedno od mojih pet odijela.

Almost everything here she's wearing, I printed from my home.

Gotovo sve što nosi, je isprintano kod mene doma.

Even her shoes are printed.

Čak i cipele su isprintane.

Audience: Wow!

Publika: Vau!

Audience: Cool!

Publika: Cool!

(Applause)

(Pljesak)

Danit Peleg: Thank you, Rebecca.

Danit Peleg: Hvala, Rebecca.

(To audience) Thank you, guys.

(Publici) Hvala vam.

So I think in the future, materials will evolve,

Razmislite, u budućnosti će se materijali razvijati,

and they will look and feel like fabrics we know today,

te će izgledati i činiti se poput tkanina koje poznajemo danas,

like cotton or silk.

poput pamuka ili svile.

Imagine personalized clothes that fit exactly to your measurements.

Zamislite personaliziranu odjeću koja točno paše prema vašim mjerama.

Music was once a very physical thing.

Glazba je nekoć bila prilično opipljiva.

You would have to go to the record shop and buy CDs,

Morali ste otići u trgovinu pločama i kupovati CDe,

but now you can just download the music --

no danas glazbu možete jednostavno skinuti --

digital music --

digitalnu glazbu --

directly to your phone.

direktno u mobitel.

Fashion is also a very physical thing.

Moda je također jako opipljiva stvar.

And I wonder what our world will look like

I zapitam se kako će svijet u kojem živimo izgledati

when our clothes will be digital, just like this skirt is.

kada nam odjeća bude bila digitalna, kao što je to ova suknja.

Thank you so much.

Puno vam hvala.

(Applause)

(Pljesak)

[Thank You]

[Hvala Vam]

(Applause)

(Pljesak)