Forget Shopping. Soon You'll Download Your New Clothes | Danit Peleg | TED Talks

譯者: 易帆 余 審譯者: lin quan

在過去幾個月，我都在旅行 每次好幾個禮拜，

In the past few months, I've been traveling for weeks at a time

with only one suitcase of clothes.

我只帶一箱手提箱的衣服。

One day, I was invited to an important event,

某天，我受邀出席一個重要活動，

and I wanted to wear something special and new for it.

我想在活動上 穿一些新穎和特別的服飾。

So I looked through my suitcase and I couldn't find anything to wear.

所以我翻遍了手提箱， 但找不到一件合適的。

幸運的是那天 被邀請參加是一次科技論壇，

I was lucky to be at the technology conference on that day,

and I had access to 3D printers.

由此我接觸到了3D列印機。

So I quickly designed a skirt on my computer,

所以我很快地在我的 電腦上設計了一條裙子。

and I loaded the file on the printer.

然我把它上傳到列印機，

It just printed the pieces overnight.

讓它整晚列印衣服的部位。

The next morning, I just took all the pieces,

隔天早上， 我拿到所有部位了，

assembled them together in my hotel room,

並在酒店房間把它們拼湊起來，

and this is actually the skirt that I'm wearing right now.

而那件裙子， 正是我現在穿著的這一件。

(Applause)

( 掌聲 )

So it wasn't the first time that I printed clothes.

但這不是我第一次列印服裝。

For my senior collection at fashion design school,

為了完成我在時裝設計學校 的高年級服飾作品，

I decided to try and 3D print an entire fashion collection from my home.

我決定在家嘗試用3D 列印 所有的時裝設計。

The problem was that I barely knew anything about 3D printing,

問題是， 我一點都不懂3D列印。

and I had only nine months to figure out how to print five fashionable looks.

而我只有9個月時間去想 如何列印出五件時尚服飾。

I always felt most creative when I worked from home.

我總覺得在家工作時最有靈感。

I loved experimenting with new materials,

我喜歡實驗新的材質，

and I always tried to develop new techniques

而且我總是嘗試研發新的技術

to make the most unique textiles for my fashion projects.

為我的時尚專案製作 最獨特的布料。

I loved going to old factories and weird stores

我喜歡到舊工廠和奇特的商店

in search of leftovers of strange powders and weird materials,

去尋找殘餘的奇特粉末 和奇怪材質，

and then bring them home to experiment on.

然後把它們帶回家做實驗。

As you can probably imagine,

所以你大概可以想像，

my roommates didn't like that at all.

我的室友很不爽....

(Laughter)

( 笑聲 )

So I decided to move on to working with big machines,

所以我決定搬去跟 大型機器一起工作，

ones that didn't fit in my living room.

每一台都大到無法放進我房間。

I love the exact and the custom work I can do

我喜歡所有時尚科技的 精密及客製化工作，

with all kinds of fashion technologies,

like knitting machines and laser cutting and silk printing.

像是：紡織機、雷射切割、絲綢列印。

One summer break, I came here to New York for an internship

某個暑假我來到紐約 中國城的一間時尚店實習

at a fashion house in Chinatown.

We worked on two incredible dresses that were 3D printed.

我們用 3D 列印做了 2 件不可思議的禮服。

They were amazing -- like you can see here.

正如你們所看到的， 它們非常美妙，

But I had a few issues with them.

但我對它們有一些意見，

They were made from hard plastics and that's why they were very breakable.

它們是由硬塑料製成， 所以非常的" 脆裂 "。

The models couldn't sit in them,

模特兒穿上后就不能坐下，

and they even got scratched from the plastics under their arms.

模特兒們甚至被手臂下 的塑料刮傷。

With 3D printing, the designers had so much freedom

有了3D列印， 設計師有更多自由

to make the dresses look exactly like they wanted,

可以讓禮服 變成他們想象中的樣子，

but still, they were very dependent on big and expensive industrial printers

但他們仍需仰賴大型且 昂貴的列印機器，

that were located in a lab far from their studio.

且機器離他們的工作室很遠。

Later that year, a friend gave me a 3D printed necklace,

那年下半年，有一個朋友 給我一條3D列印的項鍊，

printed using a home printer.

是用家用的列印機列印出來的。

I knew that these printers were much cheaper

我知道這些列印機比較便宜，

and much more accessible than the ones we used at my internship.

比起我當實習生時的那幾台 更易操作。

So I looked at the necklace,

我盯著項鍊看，

and then I thought, "If I can print a necklace from home,

然後我在想， " 如果可以在家裡列印項鍊，

why not print my clothes from home, too?"

那為何不在家 列印我的服飾？ "

I really liked the idea that I wouldn't have to go to the market

我真的很喜歡這個想法--

我不用去賣場 買別人選來賣的布料，

and pick fabrics that someone else chose to sell --

I could just design them and print them directly from home.

只要在家裡設計然後把它們 直接列印出來。

I found a small makerspace,

我找到一個小型創作者工作室，

where I learned everything I know about 3D printing.

在這我學到所有3D列印的知識。

Right away, they literally gave me the key to the lab,

很快地， 他們直接給我實驗室的鑰匙，

so I could experiment into the night, every night.

所以我可以每一個晚上 實驗到很晚。

The main challenge was to find the right filament for printing clothes with.

主要的挑戰是， 找到正確的" 絲料 "印衣服。

So what is a filament?

那甚麼是" 絲料 "呢?

Filament is the material you feed the printer with.

" 絲料 "就是 你餵給列印機的材質。

And I spent a month or so experimenting with PLA,

我花了一個月的時間 用聚乳酸（PLA）來做實驗，

which is a hard and scratchy, breakable material.

它是一種又硬又糙 且脆裂的材料。

The breakthrough came when I was introduced to Filaflex,

當我被引薦使用Filaflex後， 才有了突破性的發展，

which is a new kind of filament.

Filaflex是一種新型絲料

It's strong, yet very flexible.

它雖然堅固，但很有彈性。

And with it, I was able to print the first garment,

有了它，我就可以列印 第一件衣服了，

the red jacket that had the word "Liberté" --

這件紅色夾克名字叫" Liberté "

"freedom" in French --

是法語" 自由 "的意思，

embedded into it.

我把這個字設計在衣服裡。

I chose this word because I felt so empowered and free

我選擇這個字的原因是：

當我可以在家設計衣服 並自己列印出來時

when I could just design a garment from my home

and then print it by myself.

我覺的極具自主性及自由性，

And actually, you can easily download this jacket,

實際上，你可以很輕易地 下載這件夾克，

and easily change the word to something else.

且可以隨意把裡面的字換掉。

For example, your name or your sweetheart's name.

例如，你自己的名字， 或你愛的人的名字

(Laughter)

( 笑聲 )

列印機的工作平台很小，

So the printer plates are small,

so I had to piece the garment together, just like a puzzle.

所以我必須把它們拼湊起來， 像在拼圖一樣

而我想解決另一項挑戰。

And I wanted to solve another challenge.

I wanted to print textiles

我想列印紡織物。

that I would use just like regular fabrics.

就像我使用一般的布料一樣。

That's when I found an open-source file

這是我在開放資源裡找到的，

from an architect who designed a pattern that I love.

一個由建築師設計 的" love "的圖案。

And with it, I was able to print a beautiful textile

有了它我可以列印出 漂亮的紡織物，

that I would use just like a regular fabric.

就如同我會使用一般的布料一樣。

And it actually even looks a little bit like lace.

它實際上看起來更像蕾絲。

So I took his file and I modified it, and changed it, played with it --

所以我拿了他的檔案 變更並改良它，

many kinds of versions out of it.

我玩出了很多種類的版本。

And I needed to print another 1,500 more hours

我需要額外的1500小時 來列印完成我的作品。

to complete printing my collection.

So I brought six printers to my home and just printed 24-7.

所以我買了6台列印機回家， 一週24小時不停列印。

這實際上是一個很慢的過程，

And this is actually a really slow process,

but let's remember the Internet was significantly slower 20 years ago,

但我們回憶一下 20年前網際網路也是相當慢的，

so 3D printing will also accelerate

所以3D列印也將會加快速度，

and in no time you'll be able to print a T-Shirt in your home

而在不久的將來 你便在家裡列印T-恤了，

in just a couple of hours, or even minutes.

只需幾小時或是幾分鐘。

So you guys, you want to see what it looks like?

所以各位想看看它長甚麼樣子嗎？

Audience: Yeah!

觀眾：想!

(Applause)

( 掌聲 )

Danit Peleg: Rebecca is wearing one of my five outfits.

Rebecca 正穿著 我五件設計的其中之一。

Almost everything here she's wearing, I printed from my home.

她身上穿的服飾 都是我在家中列印出來的，

甚至她的鞋子。

Even her shoes are printed.

Audience: Wow!

觀眾：哇 !

Audience: Cool!

觀眾：酷 !

(Applause)

( 掌聲 )

Danit Peleg: Thank you, Rebecca.

謝謝你，Rebecca

(To audience) Thank you, guys.

( 面向觀眾 )謝謝各位。

So I think in the future, materials will evolve,

所以我認為未來 會有很多材質引入，

and they will look and feel like fabrics we know today,

而且它們的觀感和觸感 會與現在的那些，

like cotton or silk.

棉花或絲綢材質一樣。

Imagine personalized clothes that fit exactly to your measurements.

想像一下一件 和你完全貼合的客製化衣服。

音樂曾經是個非常實質的東西，

Music was once a very physical thing.

You would have to go to the record shop and buy CDs,

你必須去錄音帶店裡買CD，

but now you can just download the music --

但現在你可以直接下載

digital music --

數位音樂到你的手機

directly to your phone.

Fashion is also a very physical thing.

時尚也是個非常實質的東西，

And I wonder what our world will look like

而我很好奇，

當我們的衣服像這條裙子一樣 數位化後...

when our clothes will be digital, just like this skirt is.

我們的世界將會是怎樣的？

非常謝謝你們。

Thank you so much.

(Applause)

( 掌聲 )

[Thank You]

( 謝謝 )

(Applause)

( 掌聲 )