Forget Shopping. Soon You'll Download Your New Clothes | Danit Peleg | TED Talks

翻译人员: 易帆 余 校对人员: Yolanda Zhang

In the past few months, I've been traveling for weeks at a time

过去几个月中，我一直在旅行， 一次就好几个礼拜，

with only one suitcase of clothes.

只带一手提箱的衣服。

One day, I was invited to an important event,

有一天，我被邀请去参加 一个重要的活动，

and I wanted to wear something special and new for it.

我想要为这个活动 穿戴一些特别的服饰。

So I looked through my suitcase and I couldn't find anything to wear.

所以我翻遍了我的手提箱， 但却找不到一件可以穿的。

很幸运，在那一天 我被邀请参加科技论坛，

I was lucky to be at the technology conference on that day,

and I had access to 3D printers.

有机会接触到了3D打印机。

So I quickly designed a skirt on my computer,

所以我很快就在 电脑上设计了一条裙子，

and I loaded the file on the printer.

然后我把它上传到打印机。

It just printed the pieces overnight.

过了一个晚上就打印好了。

The next morning, I just took all the pieces,

隔天早上，我就拿到全部部件了，

assembled them together in my hotel room,

我在饭店房间把它们拼凑起来，

and this is actually the skirt that I'm wearing right now.

也就是我现在正在穿的这条。

(Applause)

( 掌声 )

So it wasn't the first time that I printed clothes.

但这不是我第一次打印服装了。

For my senior collection at fashion design school,

为了完成我在时尚设计学校的 高年级服饰作品，

I decided to try and 3D print an entire fashion collection from my home.

我决定在家里尝试3D打印出 我所有的服装设计作品。

The problem was that I barely knew anything about 3D printing,

问题是，我一点都不懂3D打印。

and I had only nine months to figure out how to print five fashionable looks.

而我只有9个月的时间来打印出 五件看上去还算流行的服饰。

I always felt most creative when I worked from home.

我总觉得在家工作时最有灵感。

I loved experimenting with new materials,

我喜欢实验新的材质，

and I always tried to develop new techniques

而且我总是尝试研发新的技术，

to make the most unique textiles for my fashion projects.

来为我的时尚课题 打造最独特的布料。

I loved going to old factories and weird stores

我喜欢去旧工厂和猎奇杂货店，

in search of leftovers of strange powders and weird materials,

去找各种少见的粉末和材质的边角料，

and then bring them home to experiment on.

然后把它们带回家做实验。

As you can probably imagine,

你们大概可以想像，

my roommates didn't like that at all.

我的室友对此很不爽....

(Laughter)

( 笑声 )

So I decided to move on to working with big machines,

所以我决定用大型机器进行尝试，

ones that didn't fit in my living room.

每一台都大到无法放进我房间。

I love the exact and the custom work I can do

我喜欢所有时尚科技带给我的

with all kinds of fashion technologies,

精密及个性化的工作，

like knitting machines and laser cutting and silk printing.

像是纺织机，激光切割和丝绸打印。

One summer break, I came here to New York for an internship

有一个暑假，我来到纽约 中国城的一间流行服饰店

at a fashion house in Chinatown.

做实习工作。

We worked on two incredible dresses that were 3D printed.

我们3D打印了 两件无与伦比的婚纱作品。

They were amazing -- like you can see here.

就如你们所看到的， 它们真的很惊艳。

But I had a few issues with them.

但我对它们不是很满意，

They were made from hard plastics and that's why they were very breakable.

它们是由硬塑料制成的， 所以非常的容易碎裂。

The models couldn't sit in them,

模特儿不能坐在婚纱上面，

and they even got scratched from the plastics under their arms.

她们的手臂下方甚至会被塑料刮伤。

With 3D printing, the designers had so much freedom

3D打印技术的确给了 设计师们很大的自由空间，

to make the dresses look exactly like they wanted,

可以让婚纱看起来 与他们构想中的一模一样，

but still, they were very dependent on big and expensive industrial printers

但他们仍需依靠大型且 昂贵的打印机器来实现这一切，

that were located in a lab far from their studio.

而且这些机器离他们的工作室很远。

Later that year, a friend gave me a 3D printed necklace,

那年晚些时候，有一个朋友 给了我一条3D打印的项链，

printed using a home printer.

它是用家用的打印机打印的。

I knew that these printers were much cheaper

我知道这些打印机比较便宜，

and much more accessible than the ones we used at my internship.

比起我当实习生时的那几台机器， 家用的也更好操作。

So I looked at the necklace,

我盯着项链看，

and then I thought, "If I can print a necklace from home,

然后就想， " 如果我可以在家里打印一条项链，

why not print my clothes from home, too?"

那为什么不在家里 也打印我的服饰？ "

I really liked the idea that I wouldn't have to go to the market

我真的很喜欢这个想法——

and pick fabrics that someone else chose to sell --

我不用再去商店买 别人挑来卖的布料——

I could just design them and print them directly from home.

我只要在家里设计，然后把它们 直接打印出来就可以了。

I found a small makerspace,

我找到一个小型创作者工作室，

where I learned everything I know about 3D printing.

在那里学到了所有我需要的 3D打印技术。

很快地， 他们直接给了我实验室的钥匙，

Right away, they literally gave me the key to the lab,

so I could experiment into the night, every night.

所以我可以每一个晚上 钻研到深夜。

The main challenge was to find the right filament for printing clothes with.

主要的挑战是， 要找到正确的"丝料"来印衣服。

So what is a filament?

那什么是"丝料"呢?

Filament is the material you feed the printer with.

"丝料"就是一种 你喂给打印机的材料。

And I spent a month or so experimenting with PLA,

我花了一个月的时间用PLA做实验， ( PLA：聚乳酸纤维）

which is a hard and scratchy, breakable material.

它是一种很硬又容易碎裂的材料。

The breakthrough came when I was introduced to Filaflex,

而当我了解了Filaflex后， 就有了突破性的进展，

which is a new kind of filament.

Filaflex是一种新型丝料。

It's strong, yet very flexible.

它很结实，但也很有弹性。

And with it, I was able to print the first garment,

有了它，我就可以打印 我的第一件衣服了，

the red jacket that had the word "Liberté" --

这件红色夹克有个名字 叫" Liberté"——

"freedom" in French --

在法语中是"自由"的意思——

embedded into it.

被融入了我的这个设计中。

I chose this word because I felt so empowered and free

我选择这个字的原因是：

when I could just design a garment from my home

当我可以在家设计 并打印自己的衣服时，

and then print it by myself.

我觉得很有自主性，也很自由。

And actually, you can easily download this jacket,

实际上，你可以直接 下载这件夹克，

and easily change the word to something else.

还可以随意把里面的字 换成其他东西。

For example, your name or your sweetheart's name.

例如，你自己的名字， 或你心爱的人的名字。

(Laughter)

( 笑声 )

打印机的工作平台很小，

So the printer plates are small,

so I had to piece the garment together, just like a puzzle.

所以我必须把它们拼凑起来， 就像拼图一样。

而我还想解决另一项挑战。

And I wanted to solve another challenge.

I wanted to print textiles

我想打印纺织物，

that I would use just like regular fabrics.

而且能像一般的布料一样使用它们。

That's when I found an open-source file

我找到了一份开源资料档案，

from an architect who designed a pattern that I love.

它是由一个建筑师设计的， 这图案我很喜欢。

And with it, I was able to print a beautiful textile

有了它， 我就可以打印出漂亮的纺织品，

that I would use just like a regular fabric.

就如同使用一般的布料一样。

And it actually even looks a little bit like lace.

它看起来甚至有点像蕾丝。

So I took his file and I modified it, and changed it, played with it --

于是，我参考了他的资源档， 试着变更并改良它——

many kinds of versions out of it.

我折腾出了很多种类的版本。

And I needed to print another 1,500 more hours

我还需要额外的1500小时

to complete printing my collection.

来打印完成我的作品。

So I brought six printers to my home and just printed 24-7.

所以我买了6台打印机回家， 每天24小时不停地打印。

这真是一个很漫长的过程，

And this is actually a really slow process,

but let's remember the Internet was significantly slower 20 years ago,

但不要忘了， 20年前的互联网也是相当慢的，

so 3D printing will also accelerate

所以3D打印也会实现加速，

and in no time you'll be able to print a T-Shirt in your home

而你在不久的将来就能 在家里打印你的体恤衫，

in just a couple of hours, or even minutes.

只要几小时，甚至几分钟。

So you guys, you want to see what it looks like?

那么各位想看看它长什么样子吗？

Audience: Yeah!

观众：想!

(Applause)

( 掌声 )

Danit Peleg: Rebecca is wearing one of my five outfits.

丹尼特．皮莱格： 现在Rebecca正穿着我五件设计中的一件。

Almost everything here she's wearing, I printed from my home.

她身上穿的每样东西几乎都是 我在家打印出来的，

连她的鞋子也是。

Even her shoes are printed.

Audience: Wow!

观众：哇 !

Audience: Cool!

观众：酷 !

(Applause)

( 掌声 )

Danit Peleg: Thank you, Rebecca.

谢谢你，Rebecca。

(To audience) Thank you, guys.

（面向观众）谢谢各位。

So I think in the future, materials will evolve,

所以我认为将来材质会不断进化，

and they will look and feel like fabrics we know today,

而且它们看起来、感觉起来 会很像我们已知的布料，

like cotton or silk.

比如棉花或丝绸。

Imagine personalized clothes that fit exactly to your measurements.

想像一下， 你设计的个性化服饰将完全合身。

音乐曾经也是一种实体，

Music was once a very physical thing.

You would have to go to the record shop and buy CDs,

你必须去音像店里买CD碟，

but now you can just download the music --

但现在你可以直接下载——

digital music --

数码音乐——

directly to your phone.

到你的手机里。

Fashion is also a very physical thing.

流行时尚也是一种实体，

And I wonder what our world will look like

而我很想知道， 当我们的衣服全部数码化之后，

when our clothes will be digital, just like this skirt is.

就像这条裙子， 我们的世界将会怎样？

Thank you so much.

非常谢谢你们。

(Applause)

( 掌声 )

[Thank You]

(Applause)

（谢谢）

( 掌声 )