Suzanne Lee: Grow your own clothes

Prevodilac: Jelena Nedjic Lektor: Mateja Nenadovic

So as a fashion designer,

Kao modni dizajner,

I've always tended to think of materials

oduvek sam imala sklonost da o materijalima

something like this,

razmišljam nekako na ovaj način,

or this,

ili ovako,

or maybe this.

ili možda ovako.

But then I met a biologist,

Ali onda sam upoznala jednog biologa,

and now I think of materials like this --

i sada o materijalima razmišljam na ovaj način -

green tea, sugar,

zeleni čaj, šećer,

a few microbes and a little time.

nekoliko vrsta mikroba i malo vremena.

I'm essentially using a kombucha recipe,

U suštini ja koristim recept za uspostvljanje kulture kombuha,

which is a symbiotic mix

a to je simbioza između određenih

of bacteria, yeasts and other micro-organisms,

bakterija, kvasaca i drugih mikroorganizama,

which spin cellulose

koji ispredaju celulozu

in a fermentation process.

u toku procesa fermentacije.

Over time, these tiny threads

Tokom vremena, ove majušne niti

form in the liquid into layers

formiraju slojeve u tečnosti

and produce a mat on the surface.

i stvore prekrivač na površini.

So we start by brewing the tea.

Dakle, proces počinje kuvanjem čaja.

I brew up to about 30 liters of tea at a time,

Ja skuvam oko 30 litara čaja odjednom

and then while it's still hot, add a couple of kilos of sugar.

i dok je još uvek vruć, dodam par kilograma šećera.

We stir this in until it's completely dissolved

Sve ovo potom mešamo dok se potpuno ne rastvori

and then pour it into a growth bath.

i onda to izlijemo u kadu za rast.

We need to check that the temperature

Moramo da proverimo da je temperatura

has cooled to below 30 degrees C.

manja od 30 stepeni °C.

And then we're ready to add the living organism.

I tada je sve spremno za ubacivanje živih organizama.

And along with that, some acetic acid.

I zajedno sa tim, malo sirćetne kiseline.

And once you get this process going,

I jednom kada započnete ovaj proces,

you can actually recycle

možete u principu i da reciklirate

your previous fermented liquid.

prethodno fermentisanu tečnost.

We need to maintain an optimum temperature for the growth.

Moramo da održimo optimalnu temperaturu za rast.

And I use a heat mat to sit the bath on

Ja koristim električno ćebe koje postavim u kadu

and a thermostat to regulate it.

i termostatom regulišem temperaturu.

And actually, in hot weather, I can just grow it outside.

I zapravo, kada je toplo vreme, mogu to raditi i napolju.

So this is my mini fabric farm.

Ovo je moja mala tekstilna farma.

After about three days,

Posle otprilike tri dana,

the bubbles will appear on the surface of the liquid.

pojavljuju se mehurići na površini tečnosti.

So this is telling us that the fermentation is in full swing.

I to nam govori da je fermentacija u punom jeku.

And the bacteria are feeding

I bakterije se hrane

on the sugar nutrients in the liquid.

sastojcima šećera u tečnosti.

So they're spinning these tiny nano fibers

Dakle, one predu ova tanka nano-vlakna

of pure cellulose.

čiste celuloze.

And they're sticking together, forming layers

I vlakna su pirljubljena jedna uz drugo, formirajući slojeve

and giving us a sheet on the surface.

i daju nam jedan sloj na površini.

After about two to three weeks,

Posle otprilike dve do tri nedelje,

we're looking at something which is about an inch in thickness.

gledamo u nešto što je debelo oko 2.5 centimetra.

So the bath on the left is after five days,

Kupka sa leve strane je proizvod pet dana fermentacije,

and on the right, after 10.

a sa desne, vidimo proizvod 10 dana rada.

And this is a static culture.

Ovo je statična kultura.

You don't have to do anything to it;

Ne morate ništa da radite sa njom;

you just literally watch it grow.

bukvalno je gledate kako raste.

It doesn't need light.

Ne treba joj svetlost.

And when it's ready to harvest, you take it out of the bath

Kada je spremna za žetvu, izvadite je prosto iz kupke

and you wash it in cold, soapy water.

i operete je u hladnoj, sapunjavoj vodi.

At this point, it's really heavy.

U ovom trenutku, zaista je teška.

It's over 90 percent water,

Sadrži preko 90 odsto vode

so we need to let that evaporate.

i moramo pustiti da ta voda ispari.

So I spread it out onto a wooden sheet.

Ja to raširim na drvenu ploču.

Again, you can do that outside

To možete raditi i napolju

and just let it dry in the air.

i samo pustite da se osuši na vazduhu.

And as it's drying, it's compressing,

I dok se suši, smanjuje se,

so what you're left with, depending on the recipe,

i ono što vam ostane, u zavisnosti od recepta,

is something that's either

je ili nešto što je

like a really light-weight, transparent paper,

zaista lagano, kao providan papir,

or something which is much more like a flexible vegetable leather.

ili nešto što je više poput fleksibilne biljne kože.

And then you can either cut that out

Onda to možete ili iseći

and sew it conventionally,

i šiti na uobičajeni način,

or you can use the wet material

ili možete korisiti taj vlažan materijal

to form it around a three-dimensional shape.

i staviti ga preko trodimenzionalnog oblika.

And as it evaporates,

Dok se suši,

it will knit itself together, forming seams.

samo će se sastaviti, formirajući šavove.

So the color in this jacket is coming purely from green tea.

Boja ove jakne dolazi isključivo od zelenog čaja.

I guess it also looks a little bit like human skin,

Mislim da pomalo izgleda kao ljudska koža,

which intrigues me.

što me intrigira.

Since it's organic,

Pošto je organska, ja sam zaista zainteresovana

I'm really keen to try and minimize the addition of any chemicals.

da dovedem do minimuma dodavanje bilo kakvih hemikalija.

I can make it change color without using dye

Mogu da promenim boju bez korišćenja farbe

by a process of iron oxidation.

uz pomoć oksidacije gvožđa.

Using fruit and vegetable staining,

Koristeći voćne i biljne boje,

create organic patterning.

može se napraviti organska šara.

And using indigo,

A korišćenje indiga,

make it anti-microbial.

čini ga otpornim na mikrobe.

And in fact, cotton

Činjenica je da je pamuku

would take up to 18 dips in indigo

potrebno oko 18 potapanja u indigo

to achieve a color this dark.

ne bi li se postigla ovako tamna boja.

And because of the super-absorbency of this kind of cellulose,

I zbog super-upijajućih svojstava ove vrste celuloze,

it just takes one, and a really short one at that.

potrebno je samo jedno, vrlo kratko potapanje.

What I can't yet do is make it water-resistant.

Još uvek ne uspevam da učinim materijal otpornim na vodu.

So if I was to walk outside in the rain

I kada bih danas šetala po kiši

wearing this dress today,

noseći ovu haljinu,

I would immediately start to absorb

počela bih da upijam neverovatne

huge amounts of water.

količine vode.

The dress would get really heavy,

Haljina bi postala izuzetno teška,

and eventually the seams would probably fall apart --

i šavovi bi se verovatno razdvojili -

leaving me feeling rather naked.

ostavivši me nagu.

Possibly a good performance piece,

Verovatno odličan komad odeće za scenski nastup,

but definitely not ideal for everyday wear.

ali definitivno daleko od idealne graderobe za svakodnevicu.

What I'm looking for

Ono sto mene zanima jeste da pronađem način

is a way to give the material

kojim bih mogla da učinim materijal

the qualities that I need.

onakvim kakav je meni potreban.

So what I want to do is say to a future bug,

Ono što ja želim da uradim jeste da naredim nekoj bubi budućnosti,

"Spin me a thread.

"Ispleti mi niti,

Align it in this direction.

orijentiši ih na ovaj nacin.

Make it hydrophobic.

Učini ih otpornim na vodu.

And while you're at it,

I kada već sve to radiš

just form it around this 3D shape."

uradi to koristeći kao kalup ovaj 3D oblik."

Bacterial cellulose is actually already being used for wound healing,

Celuloza koju proizvode bakterije se već koristi pri lečenju rana,

and possibly in the future

a moguće je da ćemo je u budućnosti koristiti

for biocompatible blood vessels,

za pravljenje bio-kompatibilnih krvnih sudova,

possibly even replacement bone tissue.

ili čak kao zamenu za tkivo kostiju.

But with synthetic biology,

Ali, uz pomoć sintetičke biologije,

we can actually imagine engineering this bacterium

možemo da zamislimo proces u kome ćemo mi napraviti bakteriju

to produce something

koja bi proizvodila određenu stvar

that gives us the quality,

tačno određenog

quantity and shape

kvaliteta, količine i oblika

of material that we desire.

od materijala koji mi želimo.

Obviously, as a designer, that's really exciting

Očigledno, meni su te ideje, kao dizajneru, veoma uzbudljive.

because then I start to think, wow,

Jer ja tada počnem da razmišljam o tome

we could actually imagine

kako bismo mogli da zamislimo u principu

growing consumable products.

uzgajanje potrošnih materijala.

What excites me about using microbes

Najfascinantnija pojava kod korišćenja mikroba jeste

is their efficiency.

njihova efikasnost.

So we only grow what we need.

Tako da mi možemo da gajimo samo ono što nam je potrebno.

There's no waste.

Ne postoji otpad.

And in fact, we could make it from a waste stream --

I u principu, možemo to napraviti i od otpada,

so for example,

na primer,

a waste sugar stream

otpad šećera

from a food processing plant.

iz fabrike koja proizvodi hranu.

Finally, at the end of use, we could biodegrade it naturally

Konačno, na kraju svih upotreba proizvodi se raspadaju prirodnim putem

along with your vegetable peelings.

zajedno sa vašim otpadom od povrća.

What I'm not suggesting is that microbial cellulose

Ali ja nikako ne predlažem da će ovaj tip celuloze

is going to be a replacement

biti zamena

for cotton, leather or other textile materials.

za pamuk, kožu ili druge tekstilne materijale.

But I do think it could be quite a smart and sustainable addition

Ali mislim da poseduje potencijal da bude veoma pametan i održiv dodatak

to our increasingly precious natural resources.

našim sve dragocenijim prirodnim resursima.

Ultimately, maybe it won't even be fashion

Na kraju krajeva, možda nećemo baš u svetu mode

where we see these microbes have their impact.

videti najveći doprinos ovih mikroba.

We could, for example, imagine

Možemo, na primer, zamisliti

growing a lamp, a chair,

uzgajanje lampe, stolice,

a car or maybe even a house.

automobila ili možda čak i kuće.

So I guess what my question to you is:

Tako da je pitanje koje ja vama želim da postavim sledeće:

in the future, what would you choose to grow?

šta biste vi u budućnosti izabrali da gajite?

Thank you very much.

Hvala vam puno.

(Applause)

(Aplauz)

Bruno Giussani: Suzanne, just a curiosity,

Bruno Đijuzani: Suzan, samo trenutak,

what you're wearing is not random. (Suzanne Lee: No.)

ovo što Vi imate na sebi sada nije slučajnost. Suzan Li: nije.

This is one of the jackets you grew?

Ovo je jedna od jakni koju ste vi uzgojili?

SL: Yes, it is.

SL: Da, jeste.

It's probably -- part of the project's still in process

Verovatno je - deo projekta i dalje u toku

because this one

obzirom da se ova jakna

is actually biodegrading in front of your eyes.

raspada baš sada, pred vašim očima.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

It's absorbing my sweat, and it's feeding on it.

Apsorbuje sada moj znoj i hrani se njime.

BG: Okay, so we'll let you go and save it, and rescue it.

BG: U redu, pustiću te sada da odeš i sačuvaš je, spaseš je.

Suzanne Lee. (SL: Thank you.)

Suzan Li: hvala.

(Applause)

(Aplauz)