Suzanne Lee: Grow your own clothes

Translator: Jasmin Panjeta Reviewer: Mateja Nenadovic

So as a fashion designer,

Kao modni dizajner

I've always tended to think of materials

oduvijek sam razmišljala o materijalima da su

something like this,

nešto kao ovaj,

or this,

ili ovaj

or maybe this.

ili možda ovaj.

But then I met a biologist,

Ali onda sam srela biologa,

and now I think of materials like this --

te sada o materijalima razmišljam da su -

green tea, sugar,

zeleni čaj, šećer,

a few microbes and a little time.

nekoliko mikroba i malo vemena.

I'm essentially using a kombucha recipe,

U osnovi koristim recept za kombuću,

which is a symbiotic mix

što predstavlja simbiotički miks

of bacteria, yeasts and other micro-organisms,

bakterija, kvasaca i drugih mikro organizama,

which spin cellulose

koji proizvode celulozu

in a fermentation process.

u procesu fermentacije.

Over time, these tiny threads

Tokom vremena, ove male niti

form in the liquid into layers

nastale u tečnosti se pretvaraju u slojeve

and produce a mat on the surface.

i kreiraju sloj na površini.

So we start by brewing the tea.

Počinjenom pravljenjem čaja.

I brew up to about 30 liters of tea at a time,

Napravim oko 30 litara čaja,

and then while it's still hot, add a couple of kilos of sugar.

i dok je još topao, dodam dvije kile šećera.

We stir this in until it's completely dissolved

Mješamo čaj dok se šećer ne rastopi u potpunosti

and then pour it into a growth bath.

i onda sve to izlijemo u kadu za uzgoj.

We need to check that the temperature

Moramo provjeriti da se temperatura

has cooled to below 30 degrees C.

snizila ispod 30 stepeni C.

And then we're ready to add the living organism.

I onda smo spremni da dodamo žive organizme,

And along with that, some acetic acid.

zajedno sa acetatnom kiselinom.

And once you get this process going,

I kada pokrenete ovaj proces

you can actually recycle

možete zapravo reciklirati

your previous fermented liquid.

tečnost koju ste prethodno koristili.

We need to maintain an optimum temperature for the growth.

Moramo održati optimalnu temperaturu za rast.

And I use a heat mat to sit the bath on

Ja koristim podmetač na električno grijanje da postavim posudu sa rastvorom

and a thermostat to regulate it.

i termostat da reguliše toplotu

And actually, in hot weather, I can just grow it outside.

I zapravo dok je toplo mogu i uzgajati napolju.

So this is my mini fabric farm.

Tako da je ovo moja mini farma tkanine.

After about three days,

Nakon oko tri dana,

the bubbles will appear on the surface of the liquid.

mjehurići će se pojaviti na površini tečnosti.

So this is telling us that the fermentation is in full swing.

To nam govori da je fermentacija u punom jeku.

And the bacteria are feeding

Bakterije se hrane

on the sugar nutrients in the liquid.

šećerom iz tečnosti.

So they're spinning these tiny nano fibers

Nastavljajući da predu ova tanka, nano vlakna

of pure cellulose.

čiste celuloze.

And they're sticking together, forming layers

One se lijepe jedna za drugu, stvarajući slojeve

and giving us a sheet on the surface.

i dajući nam list na površini.

After about two to three weeks,

Nakon oko dvije do tri sedmice,

we're looking at something which is about an inch in thickness.

dobijemo sloj debljine jednog inča.

So the bath on the left is after five days,

Posuda lijevo pokazuje šta se dobije nakon pet dana,

and on the right, after 10.

a posuda desno nakon deset.

And this is a static culture.

A ovo je statična kultura.

You don't have to do anything to it;

Ne morate ništa da radite sa njom;

you just literally watch it grow.

samo je gledate kako raste.

It doesn't need light.

Ne treba svjetlost.

And when it's ready to harvest, you take it out of the bath

A kada je spremna, izvadite je iz posude

and you wash it in cold, soapy water.

i operete u hladnoj sapunjavoj vodi.

At this point, it's really heavy.

U ovom trenutku, jako je teška.

It's over 90 percent water,

Preko 90 procenata je voda,

so we need to let that evaporate.

tako da moramo da je ostavimo da voda ispari.

So I spread it out onto a wooden sheet.

Ja je postavim na drvenu podlogu.

Again, you can do that outside

I ovo možete uraditi napolju

and just let it dry in the air.

i jednostavno je ostavite da se osuši na zraku.

And as it's drying, it's compressing,

Dok se suši, ona se i skuplja,

so what you're left with, depending on the recipe,

tako da ono što ostane zavisno od recepta,

is something that's either

je nešto nalik

like a really light-weight, transparent paper,

jako tankog providnog papira,

or something which is much more like a flexible vegetable leather.

ili nešto što više liči na savitljivu kožu dobijenu od povrća.

And then you can either cut that out

I onda možete ili rezati

and sew it conventionally,

ili šiti tradicionalno,

or you can use the wet material

ili možete koristiti mokri materijal

to form it around a three-dimensional shape.

da ga oblikujete oko trodimenzionalnog oblika

And as it evaporates,

I dok se suši,

it will knit itself together, forming seams.

sam će se krojiti, formirajući porube.

So the color in this jacket is coming purely from green tea.

Boja ove jakne dolazi od zelenog čaja.

I guess it also looks a little bit like human skin,

Malo izgleda kao ljudska koža,

which intrigues me.

što me intrigira.

Since it's organic,

Pošto je organski,

I'm really keen to try and minimize the addition of any chemicals.

pokušavam da minimaliziram upotrebu bilo kakvih hemikalija.

I can make it change color without using dye

Mogu učiniti da promjeni boju bez korištenja boje

by a process of iron oxidation.

kroz proces željezne oksidacije.

Using fruit and vegetable staining,

Koristeći boje iz voća i povrća,

create organic patterning.

kreirajući organske uzorke.

And using indigo,

I koristeći indigo,

make it anti-microbial.

čineći ga anti mikrobski.

And in fact, cotton

Ustvari, pamuk

would take up to 18 dips in indigo

bi trebalo zamočiti 18 puta u indigo

to achieve a color this dark.

da se postigne boja ovako tamna.

And because of the super-absorbency of this kind of cellulose,

A zbog super apsorpcije ove vrste celuloze

it just takes one, and a really short one at that.

potrebno je da se potopi samo jedanput, nakratko.

What I can't yet do is make it water-resistant.

Ono što još ne mogu uraditi je učiniti je vodootpornom.

So if I was to walk outside in the rain

Ako bih izašla vani na kišu

wearing this dress today,

noseći ovu haljinu

I would immediately start to absorb

odmah bih počela apsorbirati

huge amounts of water.

velike količine vode.

The dress would get really heavy,

Haljina bi postala jako teška

and eventually the seams would probably fall apart --

i na kraju bi se vjerovatno raspala -

leaving me feeling rather naked.

ostavaljajući me posve golu.

Possibly a good performance piece,

Vjerovatno je dobar komad za izvedbe,

but definitely not ideal for everyday wear.

ali definitnivno nije za svaki dan.

What I'm looking for

Ono što tražim

is a way to give the material

je način da dam ovom materijalu

the qualities that I need.

kvalitete koje želim.

So what I want to do is say to a future bug,

Ono što želim je da kažem budućoj bubi,

"Spin me a thread.

"Izvezi mi nit.

Align it in this direction.

Poravnaj u ovom pravcu.

Make it hydrophobic.

Učini je hidrofobnom.

And while you're at it,

I dok to radiš,

just form it around this 3D shape."

napravi je oko ovog trodimenzionalnog oblika."

Bacterial cellulose is actually already being used for wound healing,

Bakteriološka celuloza se već koristi u zalječenju rana,

and possibly in the future

a moguće u budućnosti

for biocompatible blood vessels,

i za bio-kompatibilne krvne sudove,

possibly even replacement bone tissue.

a čak i za zamjenu koštanog tkiva.

But with synthetic biology,

Ali uz sintetičku biologiju,

we can actually imagine engineering this bacterium

možemo zapravo učiniti da ova bakterija

to produce something

napravi nešto

that gives us the quality,

što nam daje kvalitet,

quantity and shape

kvantitet i oblik

of material that we desire.

materijala koji želimo.

Obviously, as a designer, that's really exciting

Naravno, kao dizajneru, ovo je jako uzbudljivo.

because then I start to think, wow,

Jer onda počinjem misliti, wow,

we could actually imagine

možemo zamisliti da

growing consumable products.

uzgajamo potrošne proizvode.

What excites me about using microbes

Ono što me uzbuđuje oko ovih mikroba

is their efficiency.

je njihova uspješnost.

So we only grow what we need.

Uzgajamo samo ono što trebamo.

There's no waste.

Nema otpadaka.

And in fact, we could make it from a waste stream --

Ustvari, možemo to napraviti i od otpadaka -

so for example,

na primjer,

a waste sugar stream

otpadaka šećera

from a food processing plant.

iz fabrike hrane.

Finally, at the end of use, we could biodegrade it naturally

Na kraju korištenja, ona može biodegradirati

along with your vegetable peelings.

zajedno sa ostacima povrća.

What I'm not suggesting is that microbial cellulose

Ne govorim da će mikrobiološka celuloza

is going to be a replacement

biti zamjena

for cotton, leather or other textile materials.

za pamuk, kožu i druge tekstilne materijale.

But I do think it could be quite a smart and sustainable addition

Ali mislim da može biti pametan i održiv dodatak

to our increasingly precious natural resources.

našim sve cjenjenijim prirodnim resursima.

Ultimately, maybe it won't even be fashion

Najzad, možda neće biti ni moda

where we see these microbes have their impact.

gdje ćemo vidjeti uticaj ovih mikroba.

We could, for example, imagine

Možemo, na primjer, zamisliti

growing a lamp, a chair,

uzgajanje lampe ili stolice,

a car or maybe even a house.

ili auta, ili možda i kuće.

So I guess what my question to you is:

Dakle moje pitanje vama je:

in the future, what would you choose to grow?

u budućnosti, šta biste izabrali da uzgojite?

Thank you very much.

Hvala vam puno.

(Applause)

(Aplauz)

Bruno Giussani: Suzanne, just a curiosity,

Bruno Giussani: Suzanne, samo na brzinu,

what you're wearing is not random. (Suzanne Lee: No.)

ono što nosite nije slučajno. (Suzanne Lee: Ne.)

This is one of the jackets you grew?

Ovo je jedna od jakni koju ste uzgojili?

SL: Yes, it is.

SL: Da, jeste.

It's probably -- part of the project's still in process

Vjerovatno je - dio projekta je još u jeku,

because this one

jer ova

is actually biodegrading in front of your eyes.

se biodegradira pred našim očima.

(Laughter)

(Smijeh)

It's absorbing my sweat, and it's feeding on it.

Apsorbira moj znoj, te se njime hrani.

BG: Okay, so we'll let you go and save it, and rescue it.

BG: Dobro, pustićemo Vas da idete i da je spasite.

Suzanne Lee. (SL: Thank you.)

Suzanne Lee. (SL: Hvala vam.)

(Applause)

(Aplauz)