Suzanne Lee: Grow your own clothes

Prevoditelj: Tilen Pigac - EFZG Recezent: Mislav Ante Omazić - EFZG

So as a fashion designer,

Dakle, kao modna dizajnerica,

I've always tended to think of materials

uvijek sam razmišljala o materijalima

something like this,

nekako ovako,

or this,

ili ovako,

or maybe this.

ili možda ovako.

But then I met a biologist,

Ali onda sam upoznala biologa,

and now I think of materials like this --

i sada razmišljam o materijalima ovako --

green tea, sugar,

zeleni čaj, šećer,

a few microbes and a little time.

nekoliko mikroba i malo vremena.

I'm essentially using a kombucha recipe,

Ja, u osnovi, koristim kombucha recept,

which is a symbiotic mix

koji predstavlja simbiotički miks

of bacteria, yeasts and other micro-organisms,

bakterije, gljivica i drugih mikro-organizama,

which spin cellulose

koji vrte celulozu

in a fermentation process.

u fermentacijskom procesu.

Over time, these tiny threads

S vremenom, te malene niti

form in the liquid into layers

se formiraju u slojevima u tekućinu

and produce a mat on the surface.

i tvore podmetač na površini.

So we start by brewing the tea.

Dakle, počinjemo kuhanjem čaja.

I brew up to about 30 liters of tea at a time,

Skuhala sam oko 30 litara čaja odjednom,

and then while it's still hot, add a couple of kilos of sugar.

i zatim kada je još vruć, dodala sam par kilograma šećera.

We stir this in until it's completely dissolved

To miješamo tako dugo dok se šećer u potpunosti ne otopi

and then pour it into a growth bath.

i zatim ga izlijemo u kadu za rast.

We need to check that the temperature

Moramo provjeriti da se temperatura

has cooled to below 30 degrees C.

spustila ispod 30 stupnjeva C.

And then we're ready to add the living organism.

I zatim smo spremni da dodamo živući organizam.

And along with that, some acetic acid.

I zajedno s time, malo octene kiseline.

And once you get this process going,

I jednom kada je taj proces pokrenut,

you can actually recycle

možete zapravo reciklirati

your previous fermented liquid.

vašu, otprije fermentiranu tekućinu.

We need to maintain an optimum temperature for the growth.

Moramo zadržati optimalnu temperaturu za uzgoj.

And I use a heat mat to sit the bath on

A ja koristim podmetač za toplinu kako bih očuvala kupelj

and a thermostat to regulate it.

i termostat za regulaciju.

And actually, in hot weather, I can just grow it outside.

I zapravo, za vrijeme vrućina, mogu je uzgajati unutra.

So this is my mini fabric farm.

Dakle, to je moja mini farma tkanine.

After about three days,

Nakon otprilike tri dana,

the bubbles will appear on the surface of the liquid.

na površini tekućine će se pojaviti mjehurići.

So this is telling us that the fermentation is in full swing.

Dakle, to nam govori kako je fermentacija u punom zamahu.

And the bacteria are feeding

A bakterije se hrane

on the sugar nutrients in the liquid.

hranjivim tvarima iz šećera u tekućini.

So they're spinning these tiny nano fibers

Dakle, one vrte ta sićušna nano vlakna

of pure cellulose.

čiste celuloze.

And they're sticking together, forming layers

I one se drže zajedno, tvoreći slojeve

and giving us a sheet on the surface.

i dajući nam list na površini.

After about two to three weeks,

Nakon otprilike dva do tri tjedna,

we're looking at something which is about an inch in thickness.

promatramo nešto što je otprilike debelo 2,5 centimetra.

So the bath on the left is after five days,

Dakle, kupelj s lijeve strane je stara pet dana,

and on the right, after 10.

a ona s desne, 10 dana.

And this is a static culture.

A to je statična kultura.

You don't have to do anything to it;

Ne morate joj ništa učiniti;

you just literally watch it grow.

doslovno je možete gledati kako raste.

It doesn't need light.

Nije joj potrebna svjetlost.

And when it's ready to harvest, you take it out of the bath

A kada je spremna za berbu, izvadite je iz kupelji

and you wash it in cold, soapy water.

i operete je u hladnoj, sapunastoj vodi.

At this point, it's really heavy.

U tom trenutku, veoma je teška.

It's over 90 percent water,

Preko 90 posto je voda,

so we need to let that evaporate.

stoga moramo pustiti da to ispari.

So I spread it out onto a wooden sheet.

Stoga sam je prostrla preko drvene plohe.

Again, you can do that outside

Ponovno, možete to raditi i vani

and just let it dry in the air.

i pustiti da se suši na zraku.

And as it's drying, it's compressing,

I kako se suši, sažima se,

so what you're left with, depending on the recipe,

i ono što vam ostaje, ovisno o receptu,

is something that's either

je nešto što je ili

like a really light-weight, transparent paper,

poput doista laganog, transparentnog papira,

or something which is much more like a flexible vegetable leather.

ili nešto što je puno više nalik fleksibilnoj koži povrća.

And then you can either cut that out

I zatim možete to ili izrezati

and sew it conventionally,

i sašiti na konvencionalan način,

or you can use the wet material

ili možete upotrijebiti mokri materijal

to form it around a three-dimensional shape.

kako bi ga formirali oko trodimenzionalnog oblika.

And as it evaporates,

I kako isparava,

it will knit itself together, forming seams.

sam će se isplesti, kreirajući šavove.

So the color in this jacket is coming purely from green tea.

Dakle, boja u ovoj jakni dolazi izravno iz zelenog čaja.

I guess it also looks a little bit like human skin,

Pretpostavljam kako izgleda pomalo nalik na ljudsku kožu,

which intrigues me.

što me intrigira.

Since it's organic,

S obzirom na to da je organska,

I'm really keen to try and minimize the addition of any chemicals.

doista sam potaknuta da pokušam minimizirati dodatak bilokakvih kemikalija.

I can make it change color without using dye

Mogu učiniti da mijenja boju bez farbanja

by a process of iron oxidation.

koristeći proces oksidacije željeza.

Using fruit and vegetable staining,

Koristeći bojenje voćem i povrćem,

create organic patterning.

mogu stvoriti organske uzorke.

And using indigo,

I koristeći indigo,

make it anti-microbial.

može postati otporna na mikrobe.

And in fact, cotton

I zapravo, pamuk

would take up to 18 dips in indigo

treba zaroniti do 18 puta u indigo

to achieve a color this dark.

kako bi boja bila ovako tamna.

And because of the super-absorbency of this kind of cellulose,

A zbog super moći apsorbiranja ove vrste celuloze,

it just takes one, and a really short one at that.

potreban je samo jedan, i to samo kratak zaron.

What I can't yet do is make it water-resistant.

Ono što još uvijek ne mogu je učiniti tkaninu vodootpornom.

So if I was to walk outside in the rain

Dakle, kada bih hodala danas vani po kiši,

wearing this dress today,

noseći ovu haljinu,

I would immediately start to absorb

odmah bi počela apsorbirati

huge amounts of water.

ogromne količine vode.

The dress would get really heavy,

Haljina bi postala jako teška,

and eventually the seams would probably fall apart --

i naposljetku bi šavovi vjerojatno popucali --

leaving me feeling rather naked.

ostavljajući me s osjećajem golotinje.

Possibly a good performance piece,

Vjerojatno dobar komad za neku predstavu,

but definitely not ideal for everyday wear.

ali definitivno nije idealan za svakodnevno nošenje.

What I'm looking for

Ono što tražim

is a way to give the material

je način da dam materijalu

the qualities that I need.

kvalitete koje su mi potrebne.

So what I want to do is say to a future bug,

Ono što želim reći kukcu budućnosti,

"Spin me a thread.

"Zavrti mi nit.

Align it in this direction.

Poravnaj je u ovom smjeru.

Make it hydrophobic.

Učini da bude hidrofobična.

And while you're at it,

I već kad to radiš,

just form it around this 3D shape."

samo je formiraj oko ovog 3D oblika."

Bacterial cellulose is actually already being used for wound healing,

Bakterijska celuloza se već koristi za zacjeljivanje rana,

and possibly in the future

i postoji mogućnost kako će se u budućnosti

for biocompatible blood vessels,

koristiti za biokompatibilne krvne žile,

possibly even replacement bone tissue.

moguće čak i za presađivanje koštane srži.

But with synthetic biology,

Ali uz pomoć sintetičke biologije,

we can actually imagine engineering this bacterium

možemo zapravo zamisliti inžinjering bakterije

to produce something

koja će proizvesti nešto

that gives us the quality,

što će nam dati kvalitetu,

quantity and shape

kvantitetu i oblik

of material that we desire.

materijala za kojim žudimo.

Obviously, as a designer, that's really exciting

Očito, kao dizajnerici, to je veoma uzbudljivo.

because then I start to think, wow,

Jer tada počinjem razmišljati, vau,

we could actually imagine

mogli bismo zapravo zamisliti

growing consumable products.

uzgajanje potrošačkih proizvoda.

What excites me about using microbes

Ono što me uzbuđuje kod korištenja mikroba

is their efficiency.

je njihova učinkovitost.

So we only grow what we need.

Dakle, uzgajamo samo ono što nam je potrebno.

There's no waste.

Nema otpada.

And in fact, we could make it from a waste stream --

I zapravo, mogli bismo to uzgajati iz otpada --

so for example,

dakle, na primjer,

a waste sugar stream

tok šećernog otpada

from a food processing plant.

iz tvornice za preradu hrane.

Finally, at the end of use, we could biodegrade it naturally

Naposljetku, na kraju upotrebe, mogli bismo je prirodno razgraditi

along with your vegetable peelings.

zajedno s ljuskama vašeg povrća.

What I'm not suggesting is that microbial cellulose

Ono što ja ne predlažem jest kako će celuloza mikroba

is going to be a replacement

biti zamjena

for cotton, leather or other textile materials.

za pamuk, kožu ili druge tekstilne materijale.

But I do think it could be quite a smart and sustainable addition

Ali mislim kako bi mogla biti prilično pametan i održiv dodatak

to our increasingly precious natural resources.

našim sve dragocjenijim prirodnim resursima.

Ultimately, maybe it won't even be fashion

Naposljetku, možda čak ni neće biti moda

where we see these microbes have their impact.

tamo gdje možemo vidjeti učinak tih mikroba.

We could, for example, imagine

Mogli bismo, na primjer, zamisliti

growing a lamp, a chair,

uzgoj svjetiljke, stolice,

a car or maybe even a house.

auta ili možda čak i kuće.

So I guess what my question to you is:

Dakle, vjerujem kako je moje pitanje vama:

in the future, what would you choose to grow?

u budućnosti, što ćete odabrati za uzgoj?

Thank you very much.

Hvala vam puno.

(Applause)

(Pljesak)

Bruno Giussani: Suzanne, just a curiosity,

Bruno Giussani: Suzanne, samo kratko,

what you're wearing is not random. (Suzanne Lee: No.)

ono što nosiš na sebi nije nasumično. (Suzanne Lee: Ne.)

This is one of the jackets you grew?

To je jedna od jakni koju si uzgojila?

SL: Yes, it is.

SL: Da, jest.

It's probably -- part of the project's still in process

Vjerojatno je -- dio projekta je još uvijek u procesu,

because this one

jer ova

is actually biodegrading in front of your eyes.

se zapravo razgrađuje pred vašim očima.

(Laughter)

(Smijeh)

It's absorbing my sweat, and it's feeding on it.

Upija moj znoj, te se hrani njime.

BG: Okay, so we'll let you go and save it, and rescue it.

BG: U redu, pustit ćemo te da odeš i spasiš jaknu.

Suzanne Lee. (SL: Thank you.)

Suzanne Lee. (SL: Hvala vam.)

(Applause)

(Pljesak)