Barton Seaver: Sustainable seafood? Let's get smart

翻译人员: Guo Tang 校对人员: Chunlei Chang

Sustainability represents

持续性象征着

the what, the where and the how

什么，何地以及

of what is caught.

什么东西是如何被捕捉的。

The who and the why are what's important to me.

谁以及其原因对我来说是最重要的。

I want to know the people behind my dinner choices.

我想知道在我们餐桌背后的那些人。

I want to know how I impact them.

我想知道我如何影响他们。

I want to know how they impact me.

我想知道他们如何影响我。

I want to know why they fish.

我想知道他们为什么捕鱼。

I want to know how they rely on the water's bounty

我想知道他们是如何借助于水的慷慨赠与

for their living.

而生活的。

Understanding all of this enables us

理解了这些可以将我们

to shift our perception of seafood

对海味的认识从

away from a commodity

一种商品

to an opportunity

提升到一种机会

to restore our ecosystem.

再上升为恢复我们生态系统的观念。

It allows for us to celebrate the seafood

它（这种观念）允许我们赞美

that we're also so fortunate to eat.

那些我们幸运地可以吃到的海味。

So what do we call this?

那么我们称这为什么呢？

I think we call it restorative seafood.

我认为我们可以称它为恢复的海味。

Where sustainability is the capacity

可持续性是一种

to endure and maintain,

持续并且保持的能力，

restorative is the ability to replenish and progress.

恢复是可以补给并促进的一种能力。

Restorative seafood allows for an evolving and dynamic system

恢复海鲜将提供一个逐步发展且富有活力的系统

and acknowledges our relationship with the ocean

并且承认我们与海洋

as a resource,

作为一种源泉的关系，

suggesting that we engage to replenish the ocean

建议我们应着手去补充海洋

and to encourage its resiliency.

并且激发它的恢复力。

It is a more hopeful, it is a more human,

它是一个更加富有希望，更人性化

and is a more useful way of understanding our environment.

并且是一个更有效的理解我们环境的方式。

Wallet guides -- standard issue

消费手册--由

by lots in the marine conservation world --

海洋保护组织统一发行--

are very handy; they're a wonderful tool.

方便携带，是很不错的工具书。

Green, yellow and red lists [of] seafood species.

以绿色，黄色和红色来划分海鲜的种类。

The association is very easy: buy green, don't buy red,

很容易联想得到：买绿色的，不买红色的，

think twice about yellow.

对黄色的要再三考虑。

But in my mind, it's really not enough

但是在我看来，

to just eat green list.

限制再仅食用绿色类的海鲜是不足够的。

We can't sustain this without the measure of our success

在无法预测我们

really changing the fate of the species

改变黄色和红色类物种的成功率的情况下

in the yellow and the red.

我们是不能够维护海洋的（可持续性的）。

But what if we eat only in the green list?

但是如果我们仅仅食用绿色类的呢？

You've got pole-caught yellowfin tuna here --

这些用钓竿捕捉的黄鳍金枪鱼也属于绿色类--

comes from sustainable stocks.

来自于可持续存储。

Pole caught -- no bycatch.

用钓竿捕捉--并非付渔获物。

Great for fishermen. Lots of money. Supporting local economies.

对渔民来说极大的好处。很多的钱。扶植地方经济。

But it's a lion of the sea. It's a top predator.

但这（黄鳍金枪鱼）相当于海洋里的狮子。它是种顶位捕食者。

What's the context of this meal?

这顿饭的背景是什么呢？

Am I sitting down in a steakhouse to a 16-ounce portion of this?

我现在正坐在一个牛排餐厅食用一个十六盎司分量的这个（黄鳍金枪鱼）。

Do I do this three times a week?

是否我每个星期都这样食用三次呢？

I might still be in the green list,

我应该还是限制在食用绿色类的海鲜，

but I'm not doing myself, or you,

但是我自己，或者是你，

or the oceans any favors.

并没有对这些海洋起到任何帮助。

The point is that we have to have a context,

重点是我们需要一个背景，

a gauge for our actions in all this.

一个度量我们行为的标准。

Example: I've heard that red wine is great for my health --

例如：我听说过红酒有助于健康--

antioxidants and minerals -- heart healthy.

含有抗氧化剂和矿物质--有益于心脏。

That's great! I love red wine!

太好了！我爱红酒！

I'm going to drink so much of it. I'm going to be so healthy.

我要喝很多很多的红酒。那样我就能变的非常的健康。

Well, how many bottles is it

那么，在我成为酒鬼之前究竟

before you tell me that I have a problem?

我应该喝多少瓶才有助于健康呢？

Well folks, we have a protein problem.

朋友们，我们有一个蛋白质问题。

We have lost this sensibility

当涉及到我们的食物时，

when it regards our food,

我们便丢失了这种敏感度，

and we are paying a cost.

我们于是付出代价。

The problem is we are hiding that cost beneath the waves.

问题是我们在隐藏那些代价。

We are hiding that cost

我们将那些代价隐藏在

behind the social acceptance of expanding waistlines.

社会对我们日益膨胀的胃口的默许。

And we are hiding that cost behind monster profits.

我们将那些代价隐藏在巨大的利润背后。

So the first thing about this idea of restorative seafood

因此关于恢复海味的第一件事情，

is that it really takes into account our needs.

就是认真地考虑我们的需要。

Restorative seafood might best be represented

恢复海味似乎是最具代表性的，

not by Jaws, or by Flipper, or the Gordon's fisherman,

并非由电影“大白鲨”（Jaws），“海豚的故事” (Flipper)，又或者是戈东的渔人牌海鲜罐头（注：Gordon's fisherman是美国的冷冻海鲜食品公司），

but rather, by the Jolly Green Giant.

而更像是绿巨人(注：Jolly Green Giant是美国通用磨坊食品公司旗下的一个蔬果品牌)

Vegetables:

蔬菜：

they might yet save the oceans.

他们仍然可以挽救海洋。

Sylvia likes to say that blue is the new green.

西尔维娅喜欢说蓝色是新的绿色。

Well I'd like to respectfully submit

而我喜欢恭敬地认为

that broccoli green might then be the new blue.

西兰花绿色则是新的蓝色。

We must continue to eat

我们必须持续地食用

the best seafood possible, if at all.

那些最佳的海产品

But we also must eat it with a ton of vegetables.

但是我们也必须同蔬菜一起食用它们。

The best part about restorative seafood though

恢复海味最好之处在于尽管

is that it comes on the half-shell

它被盛在一半的贝壳里

with a bottle of Tabasco and lemon wedges.

和一瓶塔巴斯科辣酱和柠檬片一起（端上餐桌）。

It comes in a five-ounce portion of tilapia

一个五盎司份量的罗非鱼

breaded with Dijon mustard and crispy, broiled breadcrumbs

以Dijon芥末浇汁沾上烘烤的香脆的面包屑

and a steaming pile of pecan quinoa pilaf

和一盘蒸的核桃加藜麦肉饭

with crunchy, grilled broccoli

外加上脆生生的烤西兰花

so soft and sweet and charred and smoky on the outside

外表是如此之松软香甜和略带烟熏

with just a hint of chili flake.

和一点的辣椒片儿。

Whooo!

哇哦！

This is an easy sell.

这个一定是很抢手的商品。

And the best part is all of those ingredients are available

这个最大的优点就是所有的这些调料对于每个个家庭

to every family at the neighborhood Walmart.

来说都是很容易在家附近的沃尔玛找到的。

Jamie Oliver is campaigning

杰米 奥利弗正在发起一个

to save America from the way we eat.

从我们的饮食之道来拯救美国的运动。

Sylvia is campaigning to save the oceans

西尔维娅正在组织一个

from the way we eat.

从我们的饮食之道来拯救海洋的运动。

There's a pattern here.

这里有一个规律。

Forget nuclear holocaust;

忘记了核武器大屠杀，

it's the fork that we have to worry about.

其实是我们应该担心的。

We have ravaged our Earth

我们毁灭了我们的地球

and then used the food that we've sourced

然后将作为源泉的食物

to handicap ourselves in more ways than one.

在各个方面阻碍我们自己。

So I think we have this whole eating thing wrong.

因此我认为我们的饮食之道是大错特错。

And so I think it's time

因此我认为现在正是

we change what we expect from our food.

我们改变对食物的期待的时刻。

Sustainability is complicated

持续性是复杂的，

but dinner is a reality that we all very much understand.

但是晚餐却是很容易理解的一个现实。

So let's start there.

所以，让我们从晚餐开始。

There's been a lot of movement recently in greening our food systems.

最近有很多关于绿化我们的食物系统的运动。

Dan Barber and Alice Waters

丹 巴伯和爱丽丝 沃特斯

are leading passionately the green food Delicious Revolution.

热烈地倡导绿色食品“美味革命”运动。

But green foods often represent

但是绿色食品常常代表

a way for us to disregard

着一种

the responsibility as eaters.

忽视食用者的方式。

Just because it comes from a green source

仅仅是因为这来自于一种绿色的源头

doesn't mean we can treat it with disregard on the plate.

并不意味着我们可以忽视盛在盘子里的食物。

We have eco-friendly shrimp.

我们有环保的虾。

We can make them; we have that technology.

我们可以做成（环保的），我们拥有那种科学技术。

But we can never have any eco-friendly all-you-can-eat shrimp buffet.

但是我们永远都不可能拥有全部环保的吃到饱虾自助餐。

It doesn't work.

它不起作用。

Heart-healthy dinner is a very important part

有利心脏健康的晚餐是

of restorative seafood.

恢复海味十分重要的一部分。

While we try to manage declining marine populations,

当我们试图管理减少的海洋生物，

the media's recommending increased consumption of seafood.

媒体的推荐使得海味消费增加。

Studies say that tens of thousands

研究证明上万名

of American grandmothers, grandfathers, mothers and fathers

美国老奶奶，老爷爷，妈妈和爸爸

might be around for another birthday

可以活得更久些，

if we included more seafood.

如果我们食用更多的海味。

That's a reward I am not willing to pass up.

这是个我不愿意去放弃的奖励。

But it's not all about the seafood.

但是这并仅仅是海味。

It's about the way that we look at our plates.

这是如何看待地球的方式。

As a chef, I realize the easiest thing for me to do

作为一名厨师，我意识到我能做的最简单的事情

is reduce the portion sizes on my plate.

就是减少盘子里的分量。

A couple things happened.

一系列的事情接而发生了。

I made more money.

我挣更多的钱。

People started buying appetizers and salads,

人们开始购买开胃品和沙拉，

because they knew they weren't going to fill up on the entrees alone.

因为他们知道只食用主菜是不能填饱肚子的。

People spent more time engaging in their meals,

人们消费更多的时间在晚餐上，

engaging with each other over their meals.

花更多的时间在进餐者上。

People got, in short, more of what they came there for

人们得到，简而言之，更多地它们为之而来的东西，

even though they got less protein.

尽管他们得到较少的分量。

They got more calories over the course of a diversified meal.

他们得到比起多种多样的晚餐更多的热量。

They got healthier. I made more money.

他们变得更健康。我赚更多的钱。

This is great.

这是很棒的事情。

Environmental consideration was served with every plate,

对环境的关心供应到每一个盘子上，

but it was served with a heaping mound

但是它同时也提供一个巨大量的

of consideration for human interests at the same time.

对人类利益的关心。

One of the other things we did

我们做的另一件事情就是

was begin to diversify the species that we served --

将我们所提供的品种多样化--

small silverfish, anchovies, mackerel, sardines were uncommon.

小的衣鱼, 鳀科,鲭鱼,沙丁鱼是比较常见的。

Shellfish, mussels, oysters,

贝类，蚌类，牡蛎，

clams, tilapia, char -- these were the common species.

蛤蜊，罗非鱼，嘉鱼--这些都是常见的品种。

We were directing tastes

我们引导人们的品位

towards more resilience, more restorative options.

向着更加富有弹性，更加易于恢复的选择。

This is what we need to favor.

这才是我们应该赞同的。

This is what the green list says.

这才是那些绿色类品种告诉我们的。

But this is also how we can actually begin to restore our environment.

但是这也正是实际上我们应该如何修复我们的环境。

But what of those big predators,

但这与我之前谈到的那些大型掠食者，

those fashionable species,

那些流行的品种，

that green list tuna that I was talking about earlier?

那些绿色类金枪鱼又有什么关系呢？

Well, if you must, I have a recipe for you.

如果你必须要的话，那么我有一个食谱给你。

It pretty much works with any big fish in the ocean,

这作用于海洋中的任何一种大型鱼类，

so here we go.

那么让我来看一看。

Start with a 16-ounce portion of big fish.

从一个十六盎司分量的大鱼开始。

Get a knife. Cut it into four portions.

拿把刀。把它切成四等份。

Put it on four plates.

放在四个盘子上。

Mound up those four plates with vegetables

在那四个盘子上堆放上蔬菜

and then open up the very best bottle of Burgundy you have,

然后开启一瓶勃艮第葡萄酒，

light the candles and celebrate it.

点亮蜡烛然后开始庆祝。

Celebrate the opportunity you have to eat this.

庆祝你能有幸吃到这样的美味。

Invite your friends and neighbors over

邀请你的朋友和邻居

and repeat once a year,

一年来这样庆祝一次，

maybe.

也许。

I expect a lot from food.

我对食物期待很多。

I expect health

我期待健康

and joy and family and community.

愉快以及家庭和社区。

I expect that producing ingredients,

我期待着生产(烹调的)原料，

preparing dishes and eating meals

准备菜肴和享受美味

is all part of the communion of human interests.

都是这圣餐的一部分。

I was lucky enough that my father was a fantastic cook.

我很幸运因为我的父亲是个很棒的厨师。

And he taught me very early on

在我很小的时候他就教会我

about the privilege that eating represents.

享受美食所带来的特权。

I remember well the meals of my childhood.

我清晰地记得童年时的每一餐。

They were reasonable portions of protein

它们有由大量的蔬菜所

served with copious quantities of vegetables

提供的合理定量的蛋白质

and small amounts of starch, usually rice.

和少量的淀粉，通常是大米。

This is still how I largely eat today.

直到今天我基本上还是这样的饮食。

I get sick when I go to steakhouses.

我去牛排店会觉得很不舒服。

I get the meat sweats.

吃肉会令我出汗。

It's like a hangover from protein.

这就像是

It's disgusting.

很恶心。

But of all the dire news that you'll hear

但是所有这些你将听到的可怕消息

and that you have heard about the state of our oceans,

以及你已经听到的关于我们的海洋，

I have the unfortunate burden of delivering to you

很不幸地我有这个责任来传达给你

possibly the very worst of it

可能是比那更糟地，

and that is this whole time

这一次，

your mother was right.

你妈妈是正确的。

Eat your vegetables.

多吃点蔬菜。

It's pretty straightforward.

这很直截了当。

So what are we looking for in a meal?

那么我们究竟向每一餐索取什么呢？

Well for health, I'm looking for wholesome ingredients

为了健康，我寻找有益健康的原料

that are good for my body.

对我的身体有益的。

For joy, I'm looking for butter and salt

为了愉悦，我寻求黄油和盐

and sexy things that make things taste less like penance.

和任何原料能够另品尝食物不那么像自我惩罚。

For family, I'm looking for recipes

为了家庭，我寻找

that genuflect to my own personal histories.

能够服从于我个人阅历的食谱。

For community though, we start at the very beginning.

考虑到社区，我从零开始。

There's no escaping the fact

没有例外地

that everything we eat has a global impact.

我们所食用的所有东西都会影响全球。

So try and learn as best you can what that impact is

所以尝试学习这些影响

and then take the first step to minimize it.

然后为了减少这些影响开始你的第一步。

We've seen an image of our blue planet,

我们已经看到了一副蓝色星球（地球）的图片，

our world bank.

我们的世界银行。

But it is more than just a repository of our resources;

但是它不仅仅是一个保存我们资源的仓库；

it's also the global geography

它也是被我们叫做盛宴的

of the communion we call dinner.

世界地理。

So if we all take only what we need,

因此如果我们只谈些我们需要的，

then we can begin to share the rest,

我们于是共享剩余的，

we can begin to celebrate,

我们可以开始庆祝，

we can begin to restore.

我们可以开始恢复。

We need to savor vegetables.

我们需要品尝蔬菜。

We need to savor smaller portions of seafood.

我们需要品尝小份量的海味。

And we need to save dinner.

我们还需要节约晚餐。

Thank you.

谢谢。

(Applause)

（掌声）