Barton Seaver: Sustainable seafood? Let's get smart

Prevoditelj: Tilen Pigac - EFZG Recezent: Mislav Ante Omazić - EFZG

Sustainability represents

Održivost predstavlja

the what, the where and the how

što, gdje i kako

of what is caught.

onoga što je ulovljeno.

The who and the why are what's important to me.

Tko i zašto su meni važni.

I want to know the people behind my dinner choices.

Želim znati tko su ljudi iza mojih odabira večera.

I want to know how I impact them.

Želim znati kako utječem na njih.

I want to know how they impact me.

Želim znati kako oni utječu na mene.

I want to know why they fish.

Želim znati zašto love ribu.

I want to know how they rely on the water's bounty

Želim znati kako se oni oslanjaju na izobilje vode

for their living.

za njihov život.

Understanding all of this enables us

Shvaćanje svega toga nam omogućuje

to shift our perception of seafood

da promijenimo našu percepciju morske hrane

away from a commodity

od onoga što je roba

to an opportunity

na priliku

to restore our ecosystem.

da ponovno uspostavimo naš ekosustav.

It allows for us to celebrate the seafood

Dozvoljava nam da slavimo morsku hranu

that we're also so fortunate to eat.

koju imamo sreće jesti.

So what do we call this?

Dakle, kako to zovemo?

I think we call it restorative seafood.

Mislim kako to zovemo okrepljujuća morska hrana.

Where sustainability is the capacity

Gdje je održivost kapacitet

to endure and maintain,

da izdržimo i sačuvamo,

restorative is the ability to replenish and progress.

okrepljujuće je sposobnost da napunimo i napredujemo.

Restorative seafood allows for an evolving and dynamic system

Okrepljujuća morska hrana nam dozvoljava evoluirajući i dinamički sustav

and acknowledges our relationship with the ocean

i da priznamo našu povezanost s oceanom

as a resource,

kao resursom,

suggesting that we engage to replenish the ocean

predlažući da se uključimo u punjenje oceana

and to encourage its resiliency.

i da ohrabrimo njegovu upornost.

It is a more hopeful, it is a more human,

To je više obećavajući, to je ljudskiji

and is a more useful way of understanding our environment.

i to je korisniji način shvaćanja našeg okoliša.

Wallet guides -- standard issue

Vodiči za novčanike -- standardna serija

by lots in the marine conservation world --

mnogih u svijetu konzervacija morskog svijeta --

are very handy; they're a wonderful tool.

su vrlo praktničan, oni su prekrasan alat.

Green, yellow and red lists [of] seafood species.

Zeleni, žuti i crveni prikazuju vrste morske hrane.

The association is very easy: buy green, don't buy red,

Asocijacija je vrlo laka: kupite zelene, nemojte kupovati crvene,

think twice about yellow.

dvaput razmislite o žutima.

But in my mind, it's really not enough

Ali u mojim mislima, nije zapravo samo dovoljno

to just eat green list.

jesti zelenu listu.

We can't sustain this without the measure of our success

Ne možete to održati bez mjere našeg uspjeha

really changing the fate of the species

koja doista mijenja sudbinu vrsta

in the yellow and the red.

u žutom i crvenom.

But what if we eat only in the green list?

Ali što ako jedemo samo sa zelene liste?

You've got pole-caught yellowfin tuna here --

Ovdje imate pritkom ulovljenu žutorepu tunu --

comes from sustainable stocks.

dolazi iz održivih zaliha.

Pole caught -- no bycatch.

Pritkom ulovljena -- nije slučajno uhvaćena u mrežu.

Great for fishermen. Lots of money. Supporting local economies.

Odlično za ribiče. Mnogo novca. Podrška lokalnim ekonomijama.

But it's a lion of the sea. It's a top predator.

Ali to je lav mora. To je vrhovni predator.

What's the context of this meal?

Koji je kontekst ovog obroka?

Am I sitting down in a steakhouse to a 16-ounce portion of this?

Sjedam li ja u restoran s odrescima na porciju ovoga od 450 grama?

Do I do this three times a week?

Radim li to tri puta na tjedan?

I might still be in the green list,

Još bih uvijek mogao biti na zelenoj listi,

but I'm not doing myself, or you,

ali ne radim ni sebi ni vama

or the oceans any favors.

ni oceanima ikakve usluge.

The point is that we have to have a context,

Poanta je kako moramo imati kontekst,

a gauge for our actions in all this.

mjerilo za naše akcije u svemu tome.

Example: I've heard that red wine is great for my health --

Primjer: Čuo sam kako je crveno vino odlično za moje zdravlje --

antioxidants and minerals -- heart healthy.

antioksidanti i minerali -- zdravo za srce.

That's great! I love red wine!

To je odlično! Volim crveno vino!

I'm going to drink so much of it. I'm going to be so healthy.

Popit ću ga puno. Biti ću tako zdrav.

Well, how many bottles is it

Pa, koliko boca je potrebno

before you tell me that I have a problem?

prije nego mi kažete kako imam problem?

Well folks, we have a protein problem.

Pa ljudi, mi imamo proteinski problem.

We have lost this sensibility

Izgubili smo tu osjetljivost

when it regards our food,

kada dolazimo do naše hrane

and we are paying a cost.

i sada plaćamo cijenu za to.

The problem is we are hiding that cost beneath the waves.

Problem je kako skrivamo taj trošak ispod valova.

We are hiding that cost

Skrivamo taj trošak

behind the social acceptance of expanding waistlines.

iza društvene prihvaćenosti širenja strukova.

And we are hiding that cost behind monster profits.

I skrivamo taj trošak iza čudovišnih profita.

So the first thing about this idea of restorative seafood

Dakle, prva stvar kod te ideje okrepljujuće morske hrane

is that it really takes into account our needs.

je kako doista treba uzeti u obzir naše potrebe.

Restorative seafood might best be represented

Okrepljujuću morsku hranu je najbolje predstaviti

not by Jaws, or by Flipper, or the Gordon's fisherman,

ne Raljama ili Flipperom ili Gordonovim ribičem,

but rather, by the Jolly Green Giant.

već Veselim zelenim divom.

Vegetables:

Povrće:

they might yet save the oceans.

ono bi moglo spasiti oceane.

Sylvia likes to say that blue is the new green.

Sylvia voli reći kako je plavo novo zeleno.

Well I'd like to respectfully submit

Pa, ja bih s poštovanjem spomenuo

that broccoli green might then be the new blue.

kako brokula zeleno bi moglo biti novo plavo.

We must continue to eat

Moramo nastaviti jesti

the best seafood possible, if at all.

najbolju moguću morsku hranu, ako uopće.

But we also must eat it with a ton of vegetables.

Ali isto je tako moramo jesti u kombinaciji s brdom povrća.

The best part about restorative seafood though

Najbolji dio kod okrepljujuće morske hrane

is that it comes on the half-shell

je da dolazi na pola police

with a bottle of Tabasco and lemon wedges.

s bocom Tabasca i s graničicama limuna.

It comes in a five-ounce portion of tilapia

Dolazi u porcijama od pet unci tilapije

breaded with Dijon mustard and crispy, broiled breadcrumbs

pohana s Dijonskim senfom i hrskavim, pečenim krušnim mrvicama

and a steaming pile of pecan quinoa pilaf

i parenom hrpom pekan quinoa pilav oraha

with crunchy, grilled broccoli

s hrskavom, pečenom brokulom

so soft and sweet and charred and smoky on the outside

tako mekanom i slatkom i zagorjelom i dimljenom izvana

with just a hint of chili flake.

s mrvicom čilija.

Whooo!

Vuhu!

This is an easy sell.

To se lako prodaje.

And the best part is all of those ingredients are available

A najbolji dio je kako su svi ti sastojci dostupni

to every family at the neighborhood Walmart.

svakoj obitelji u susjednom Walmartu.

Jamie Oliver is campaigning

Jamie Oliver ima kampanju

to save America from the way we eat.

kojom želi spasiti Ameriku od načina na koji jedemo.

Sylvia is campaigning to save the oceans

Sylvia ima kampanju kojom želi spasiti oceane

from the way we eat.

od načina na koji jedemo.

There's a pattern here.

Tu postoji obrazac.

Forget nuclear holocaust;

Zaboravite nuklearni holokaust;

it's the fork that we have to worry about.

vilica je ono oko čega trebamo brinuti.

We have ravaged our Earth

Razorili smo našu zemlju

and then used the food that we've sourced

i zatim koristili hranu koju smo pronašli

to handicap ourselves in more ways than one.

kako bismo hendikepirali sebe na više od jednog načina.

So I think we have this whole eating thing wrong.

Stoga mislim kako je to cijelo jedenje krivo.

And so I think it's time

I stoga mislim kako je vrijeme

we change what we expect from our food.

da promijenimo naša očekivanja od naše hrane.

Sustainability is complicated

Održivost je komplicirana,

but dinner is a reality that we all very much understand.

ali večera je stvarnost koju svi mi jako dobro razumijemo

So let's start there.

stoga počnimo tu.

There's been a lot of movement recently in greening our food systems.

Bilo je puno pokreta nedavno u ozelenjavanju naših hranidbenih sustava.

Dan Barber and Alice Waters

Dan Barber i Alice Waters

are leading passionately the green food Delicious Revolution.

strastveno vode Slasnu revoluciju zelene hrane.

But green foods often represent

Ali zelena hrana često predstavlja

a way for us to disregard

način za nas da zanemarimo

the responsibility as eaters.

svoju odgovornost kao osobe koje jedu.

Just because it comes from a green source

Samo zato jer dolazi iz zelenog izvora

doesn't mean we can treat it with disregard on the plate.

ne znači da to možemo tretirati ignoriranjem onoga što je na tanjuru.

We have eco-friendly shrimp.

Imamo ekološki prihvatljive škampe.

We can make them; we have that technology.

Možemo ih napraviti; imamo tu tehnologiju.

But we can never have any eco-friendly all-you-can-eat shrimp buffet.

Ali nikada ne možemo imati ekološki prihvatljiv sve što možete pojesti škampe bufet.

It doesn't work.

To ne funkcionira.

Heart-healthy dinner is a very important part

Večera zdrava za srce je veoma važan dio

of restorative seafood.

naše okrepljujuće morske hrane.

While we try to manage declining marine populations,

Dok mi pokušavamo i upravljamo smanjujućom morskom populacijom,

the media's recommending increased consumption of seafood.

mediji preporučuju povećanu potrošnju morske hrane.

Studies say that tens of thousands

Istraživanja pokazuju kako će deseci tisuća

of American grandmothers, grandfathers, mothers and fathers

američkih baka, djedova, majki i očeva

might be around for another birthday

biti s nama još jedan rođendan

if we included more seafood.

ukoliko uključimo više morske hrane.

That's a reward I am not willing to pass up.

To je nagrada koju nisam spreman propustiti.

But it's not all about the seafood.

Ali ne radi se samo o morskoj hrani.

It's about the way that we look at our plates.

Radi se o načinu na koji gledamo naše tanjure.

As a chef, I realize the easiest thing for me to do

Kao kuharu, shvaćam kako je meni najjednostavnija stvar za učiniti

is reduce the portion sizes on my plate.

smanjiti veličinu porcija na mom tanjuru.

A couple things happened.

Nekoliko stvari se dogodilo.

I made more money.

Zaradio sam više novca.

People started buying appetizers and salads,

Ljudi su počeli kupovati predjela i salate,

because they knew they weren't going to fill up on the entrees alone.

jer su znali kako ih glavno jelo samo neće zasititi.

People spent more time engaging in their meals,

Ljudi su proveli više vremena u svojim obrocima,

engaging with each other over their meals.

komunicirajući više jedni s drugima tijekom obroka.

People got, in short, more of what they came there for

Ljudi su dobili, ukratko, više onoga po što su i došli,

even though they got less protein.

čak i ako su dobili manje proteina.

They got more calories over the course of a diversified meal.

Dobili su više kalorija tijekom diverzificiranog obroka.

They got healthier. I made more money.

Postali su zdraviji. Ja sam zaradio više novca.

This is great.

To je odlično.

Environmental consideration was served with every plate,

Ekološka osvještenost je bila servirana na svakom tanjuru,

but it was served with a heaping mound

ali bila je servirana s hrpom

of consideration for human interests at the same time.

obzira za ljudske interese u isto vrijeme.

One of the other things we did

Jedna od drugih stvari koje smo učinili

was begin to diversify the species that we served --

je bila diverzifikacija vrsta koje smo servirali --

small silverfish, anchovies, mackerel, sardines were uncommon.

male srebrne ribice, inćuni, skuša, sardine su bile uobičajene.

Shellfish, mussels, oysters,

Školjke, dagnje, kamenice,

clams, tilapia, char -- these were the common species.

rak, tilapija -- to su bile uobičajene vrste.

We were directing tastes

Usmjeravali smo okuse

towards more resilience, more restorative options.

prema više otpornosti, više okrepljujućih opcija.

This is what we need to favor.

To je ono što moramo favorizirati.

This is what the green list says.

To je ono što nam zelena lista kaže.

But this is also how we can actually begin to restore our environment.

Ali to je zapravo i način kako možemo početi obnavljati naš okoliš.

But what of those big predators,

Ali što je s tim velikim predatorima,

those fashionable species,

tim modernim vrstama,

that green list tuna that I was talking about earlier?

tom tunom sa zelene liste o kojoj sam ranije pričao?

Well, if you must, I have a recipe for you.

Pa, ako želite, imam recept za vas.

It pretty much works with any big fish in the ocean,

Više manje funkcionira s bilo kojom velikom ribom u oceanu

so here we go.

pa krenimo.

Start with a 16-ounce portion of big fish.

Počnimo s porcijom velike ribe od 450 grama.

Get a knife. Cut it into four portions.

Uzmite nož. Narežite je na četiri porcije.

Put it on four plates.

Stavite je na četiri tanjura.

Mound up those four plates with vegetables

Napunite ta četiri tanjura s povrćem

and then open up the very best bottle of Burgundy you have,

i zatim otvorite najbolju bocu Burgundca koju imate,

light the candles and celebrate it.

zapalite svijeće i proslavite.

Celebrate the opportunity you have to eat this.

Proslavite to kako imate priliku to jesti.

Invite your friends and neighbors over

Pozovite svoje prijatelje i susjede

and repeat once a year,

i ponovite to jednom godišnje,

maybe.

možda.

I expect a lot from food.

Ja očekujem puno od hrane.

I expect health

Očekujem zdravlje

and joy and family and community.

i veselje i obitelj i zajedništvo.

I expect that producing ingredients,

Očekujem kako je produciranje sastojaka,

preparing dishes and eating meals

pripremanje jela i jedenje obroka

is all part of the communion of human interests.

sve dio zajedničkih ljudskih interesa.

I was lucky enough that my father was a fantastic cook.

Imao sam sreće što je moj otac bio odličan kuhar.

And he taught me very early on

I vrlo rano me naučio

about the privilege that eating represents.

koju privilegiju jedenje predstavlja.

I remember well the meals of my childhood.

Dobro se sjećam obroka svog djetinjstva.

They were reasonable portions of protein

To su bile razumne porcije proteina

served with copious quantities of vegetables

servirane s obilnim količinama povrća

and small amounts of starch, usually rice.

i malim količinama škroba, obično riže.

This is still how I largely eat today.

Tako u velikoj mjeri ja jedem još i danas.

I get sick when I go to steakhouses.

Pozli mi kada odem u restoran s odrescima.

I get the meat sweats.

Znojim se od mesa.

It's like a hangover from protein.

To je poput mamurluka od proteina.

It's disgusting.

To je odvratno.

But of all the dire news that you'll hear

Ali od svih groznih vijesti koje ćete čuti

and that you have heard about the state of our oceans,

i koje ste čuli o stanju naših oceana,

I have the unfortunate burden of delivering to you

na mene je spao nesretni teret reći vam,

possibly the very worst of it

možda onu najgoru,

and that is this whole time

a to je kako je cijelo ovo vrijeme

your mother was right.

vaša majka bila u pravu.

Eat your vegetables.

Jedite svoje povrće.

It's pretty straightforward.

To je prilično direktno.

So what are we looking for in a meal?

Dakle, što to tražimo u obroku?

Well for health, I'm looking for wholesome ingredients

Pa za zdravlje, tražim cjelovite sastojke

that are good for my body.

koji su dobri za moje tijelo.

For joy, I'm looking for butter and salt

Za veselje, tražim maslac i sol

and sexy things that make things taste less like penance.

i seksi stvari koje čine ukus hrane manje groznim.

For family, I'm looking for recipes

Za obitelj, tražim recepte

that genuflect to my own personal histories.

koji se savijaju prema mojim osobnim povijestima.

For community though, we start at the very beginning.

Za zajedništvo, moramo početi na samom početku.

There's no escaping the fact

Ne možemo pobjeći činjenici

that everything we eat has a global impact.

kako sve što jedemo ima globalni utjecaj.

So try and learn as best you can what that impact is

Stoga pokušajte i naučite najbolje što možete koji je to utjecaj

and then take the first step to minimize it.

i zatim poduzmite prvi korak kako biste ga minimizirali.

We've seen an image of our blue planet,

Vidjeli smo sliku našeg plavog planeta,

our world bank.

naše svjetske banke.

But it is more than just a repository of our resources;

Ali to je više od samog skladišta naših resursa;

it's also the global geography

to je ujedno i globalna geografija

of the communion we call dinner.

zajedništva kojeg zovemo večera.

So if we all take only what we need,

Dakle, ako svi mi uzmemo samo ono što nam je potrebno,

then we can begin to share the rest,

tada možemo početi dijeliti ostatak,

we can begin to celebrate,

možemo početi slaviti,

we can begin to restore.

možemo početi obnavljati.

We need to savor vegetables.

Moramo sačuvati povrće.

We need to savor smaller portions of seafood.

Moramo sačuvati manje porcije morske hrane.

And we need to save dinner.

I moramo spasiti večeru.

Thank you.

Hvala vam.

(Applause)

(Pljesak)