Choice, happiness and spaghetti sauce | Malcolm Gladwell

Prevodilac: Ivana Korom Lektor: Mile Živković

I think I was supposed to talk about my new book,

Mislim da je trebalo da govorim o svojoj novoj knjizi,

which is called "Blink,"

koja se zove "Tren",

and it's about snap judgments and first impressions.

i govori o brzom donošenju odluka i prvih utisaka.

And it comes out in January, and I hope you all buy it in triplicate.

Izlazi u januaru, nadam se da ćete svi kupiti više primeraka.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

But I was thinking about this,

Ali, razmišljao sam o ovome,

and I realized that although my new book makes me happy,

i shvatio da, iako me moja nova knjiga čini srećnim,

and I think would make my mother happy,

i mislim da bi usrećila i moju majku,

it's not really about happiness.

ona ne govori o sreći.

Pa sam zato odlučio da govorim o nekome

So I decided instead, I would talk about someone

ko je, po mom mišljenju, za sreću Amerikanaca učinio

who I think has done as much to make Americans happy

as perhaps anyone over the last 20 years,

koliko i bilo ko u poslednjih 20 godina,

a man who is a great personal hero of mine:

o čoveku koji je moj lični heroj,

someone by the name of Howard Moskowitz,

a zove se Hauard Moskovic,

who is most famous for reinventing spaghetti sauce.

i najpoznaitiji je po tome što je promenio sos za špagete.

Howard's about this high, and he's round,

Hauard je otprilike ove visine, okrugao je,

and he's in his 60s, and he has big huge glasses

šezdesetih godina, nosi ogromne naočare,

ima tanku sedu kosu

and thinning gray hair,

and he has a kind of wonderful exuberance and vitality,

i poseduje divnu energiju i vitalnost,

and he has a parrot, and he loves the opera,

ima papagaja i voli operu,

and he's a great aficionado of medieval history.

i veliki je poznavalac srednjevekovne istorije.

And by profession, he's a psychophysicist.

A po profesiji je psihofizičar.

Now, I should tell you that I have no idea what psychophysics is,

Trebalo bi da napomenem da nemam pojma šta je psihofizika,

although at some point in my life,

mada sam u jednom periodu u životu

I dated a girl for two years

izlazio dve godine sa jednom devojkom

who was getting her doctorate in psychophysics.

koja je radila na doktoratu i psihofizike.

Which should tell you something about that relationship.

To bi trebalo da govori nešto o toj vezi.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

As far as I know, psychophysics is about measuring things.

Koliko ja znam, u psihofizici se mere stvari.

And Howard is very interested in measuring things.

A Hauard je veoma zainteresovan za merenje stvari.

And he graduated with his doctorate from Harvard,

Doktorirao je na Harvardu,

and he set up a little consulting shop in White Plains, New York.

a onda osnovao malu konsultantsku kancelariju u Vajt Plejnsu, Njujork.

And one of his first clients was Pepsi.

Jedan od njegovih prvih klijenata bio je Pepsi.

This is many years ago, back in the early 70s.

Ovo je davno, ranih sedamdesetih.

And Pepsi came to Howard and they said,

Pepsi je došao kod Haurda i rekao:

"You know, there's this new thing called aspartame,

"Znaš, postoji nešto novo zvano aspartam,

and we would like to make Diet Pepsi.

i hteli bismo da napravimo Dijet Pepsi.

We'd like you to figure out

Hteli bismo da ti izračunaš

how much aspartame we should put in each can of Diet Pepsi

koliko aspartama treba da stavimo u svaku konzervu Dijet Pepsija

in order to have the perfect drink."

da bismo dobili savršeno piće."

Now that sounds like an incredibly straightforward question to answer,

To deluje kao izuzetno jasno pitanje,

and that's what Howard thought.

mislio je Hauard.

Because Pepsi told him,

Jer, Pepsi mu je rekao:

"We're working with a band between eight and 12 percent.

"Radimo sa količinom od 8 do 12 procenata.

Anything below eight percent sweetness is not sweet enough;

Sve ispod 8 nije dovoljno slatko;

anything above 12 percent sweetness is too sweet.

sve preko 12 je preslatko.

We want to know: what's the sweet spot between 8 and 12?"

Želimo da znamo: gde je idealna tačka između 8 i 12?"

Now, if I gave you this problem to do, you would all say, it's very simple.

Sad, da vam dam ovaj problem, rekli biste da je veoma jednostavan.

What we do is you make up a big experimental batch of Pepsi,

Napravićemo veliku eksperimentalnu količinu Pepsija

at every degree of sweetness -- eight percent, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,

sa svakim stepenom slatkoće - 8%, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,

all the way up to 12 --

sve do 12 -

and we try this out with thousands of people,

i isprobaćemo sa hiljadama ljudi

and we plot the results on a curve,

i rasporedićemo rezultate grafički

and we take the most popular concentration, right?

i uzećemo najpopularniju koncentraciju, je l' tako?

Really simple.

Veoma jednostavno.

Howard does the experiment, and he gets the data back,

Hauard uradi eksperiment i dobije rezultate,

and he plots it on a curve,

rasporedi ih grafički

and all of a sudden he realizes it's not a nice bell curve.

i odjednom shvati da nema lepu zvonastu krivu.

In fact, the data doesn't make any sense.

U stvari, podaci uopšte nemaju smisla.

It's a mess. It's all over the place.

U potpunom su haosu, na sve strane.

Now, most people in that business, in the world of testing food and such,

Sad, većina ljudi u tom poslu, u isprobavanju hrane i pića,

are not dismayed when the data comes back a mess.

ne potresa se kad dobije haotične podatke.

They think, "Well, you know,

Pomisle: "Pa, znate,

figuring out what people think about cola's not that easy."

nije lako shvatiti šta ljudi misle o koli."

"You know, maybe we made an error somewhere along the way."

"Znate, možda smo negde usput pogrešili".

"You know, let's just make an educated guess,"

"Hajde da samo napravimo procenu",

and they simply point and they go for 10 percent,

i onda samo gađaju i ubodu 10 procenata,

right in the middle.

tačno u sredinu.

Howard is not so easily placated.

Hauard se ne smiruje tako lako.

Howard is a man of a certain degree of intellectual standards.

On je čovek sa određenim stepenom intelektualnih standarda.

And this was not good enough for him,

Ovo za njega nije bilo dovoljno dobro,

and this question bedeviled him for years.

i to pitanje ga je mučilo godinama.

And he would think it through and say, "What was wrong?

Razmišljao bi i rekao: "Šta ne valja?

Why could we not make sense of this experiment with Diet Pepsi?"

Zašto taj eksperiment sa Dijet Pepsijem nije imao smisla?"

And one day, he was sitting in a diner in White Plains,

Jednog dana, sedeo je u restoranu u Vajt Plejnsu,

about to go trying to dream up some work for Nescafé.

i hteo je da osmisli nešto za Nescafe.

And suddenly, like a bolt of lightning, the answer came to him.

Odjednom, kao udar groma, stigao mu je odgovor.

And that is, that when they analyzed the Diet Pepsi data,

A to je, da kada su analizirali podatke za Dijet Pepsi,

they were asking the wrong question.

postavljali su pogrešno pitanje.

They were looking for the perfect Pepsi,

Tražili su savršeni Pepsi,

and they should have been looking for the perfect Pepsis.

ali trebalo je da traže savršene Pepsije.

Trust me.

Verujte mi.

This was an enormous revelation.

To je bio ogromno otkrovenje.

This was one of the most brilliant breakthroughs in all of food science.

Ovo je jedno od najgenijalnijih otkrića u celokupnoj nauci o hrani.

Howard immediately went on the road,

Hauard je istog trenutka krenuo na put

and he would go to conferences around the country,

i išao je na konferencije širom zemlje,

and he would stand up and say,

gde bi ustao i rekao:

"You had been looking for the perfect Pepsi.

"Tražili ste savršen Pepsi.

You're wrong.

Grešite.

You should be looking for the perfect Pepsis."

Trebalo bi da tražite savršene Pepsije."

And people would look at him blankly and say,

Ljudi bi ga belo gledali i pitali:

"What are you talking about? Craziness."

"O čemu pričaš? Ludost."

And they would say, "Move! Next!"

Rekli bi: "Pomeri se! Sledeći!"

Tried to get business, nobody would hire him --

Probao je da se zaposli, niko ga nije hteo -

he was obsessed, though,

doduše, bio je opsednut

and he talked about it and talked about it.

i pričao je o tome i pričao.

Howard loves the Yiddish expression

Hauard voli onaj izraz na jidišu

"To a worm in horseradish, the world is horseradish."

"Za crva u renu, ren je ceo svet".

This was his horseradish.

Ovo je bio njegov ren.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

He was obsessed with it!

Bio je opsednut time!

And finally, he had a breakthrough.

I konačno, doživeo je preokret.

Vlasic Pickles came to him,

Posetili su ga iz firme "Vlasic Pickels"

and they said, "Doctor Moskowitz, we want to make the perfect pickle."

i rekli: "Doktore Moskovic, želimo da napravite savršeni krastavac."

And he said,

On je odgovorio:

"There is no perfect pickle; there are only perfect pickles."

"Ne postoji savršeni krastavac; postoje samo savršeni krastavci."

And he came back to them and he said,

A onda im se vratio i rekao:

"You don't just need to improve your regular;

"Ne treba samo da poboljšate vaše obične krastavce;

you need to create zesty."

morate da napravite kisele."

And that's where we got zesty pickles.

I tako smo dobili kisele krastavce u tegli.

Then the next person came to him: Campbell's Soup.

Onda mu je došla sledeća osoba: Kembelova supa.

And this was even more important.

A ovo je bilo još važnije.

In fact, Campbell's Soup is where Howard made his reputation.

U stvari, na Kembelovoj supi je Hauard izgradio svoju reputaciju.

Campbell's made Prego,

Oni su pravili "Prego",

and Prego, in the early 80s, was struggling next to Ragù,

a "Prego" se ranih osamdesetih borio pored "Ragua",

which was the dominant spaghetti sauce of the 70s and 80s.

koji je bio dominantan sos za špagete sedamdesetih i osamdesetih.

In the industry -- I don't know whether you care about this,

U toj industriji - ne znam da li vas ovo zanima,

or how much time I have to go into this.

ili koliko vremena imam da ulazim u to.

But it was, technically speaking -- this is an aside --

Ali, tehnički govoreći - ovo je digresija -

Prego is a better tomato sauce than Ragù.

"Prego" je bolji paradajz sos od "Ragua".

The quality of the tomato paste is much better;

Kvalitet osnove od paradajza je mnogo bolji;

the spice mix is far superior;

mešavina začina je na mnogo višem nivou;

it adheres to the pasta in a much more pleasing way.

mnogo lepše se spaja sa pastom.

In fact, they would do the famous bowl test

U stvari, radili su čuveni test sa činijom

back in the 70s with Ragù and Prego.

davnih sedamdesetih, sa "Raguom" i sa "Pregom".

You'd have a plate of spaghetti, and you would pour it on, right?

Imate tanjir špageta i sipate preko njih, je l' tako?

And the Ragù would all go to the bottom, and the Prego would sit on top.

"Ragu" bi otišao na dno, a "Prego" bi ostao na vrhu.

That's called "adherence."

To se zove "lepljivost".

And, anyway, despite the fact that they were far superior in adherence,

Uglavnom, uprkos činjenici da je bio superiorniji u lepljivosti,

and the quality of their tomato paste,

i u kvalitetu baze od paradajza,

Prego was struggling.

"Prego" je imao poteškoća.

So they came to Howard, and they said, fix us.

Tako su došli Hauardu i rekli: "Popravi nas".

And Howard looked at their product line, and he said,

Hauard je pogledao njihovu proizvodnu liniju i rekao:

what you have is a dead tomato society.

"Vi imate društvo mrtvih paradajza.

So he said, this is what I want to do.

Evo šta želim da uradim."

And he got together with the Campbell's soup kitchen,

Našao se sa "Kembelovom supom"

and he made 45 varieties of spaghetti sauce.

i napravio 45 varijanti sosa za špagete.

And he varied them according to every conceivable way

Varirao ih je na svaki zamisliv način

that you can vary tomato sauce:

na koji možete da varirate sos od paradajza:

by sweetness, by level of garlic,

po slatkoći, količini belog luka,

by tomatoey-ness, by tartness, by sourness,

paradajz-ičnosti, gorčini, kiselosti,

by visible solids --

vidljivim komadićima -

my favorite term in the spaghetti sauce business.

to mi je omiljeni termin sa tržišta sosova za špagete.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

Every conceivable way you can vary spaghetti sauce,

Na svaki mogući način na koji možete varirati sos za špagete,

he varied spaghetti sauce.

on ga je varirao.

And then he took this whole raft of 45 spaghetti sauces,

A onda je uzeo celu paletu od 45 ukusa

and he went on the road.

i krenuo na put.

He went to New York, to Chicago,

Išao je u Njujork, Čikago,

he went to Jacksonville, to Los Angeles.

Džeksonvil, Los Anđeles.

And he brought in people by the truckload into big halls.

Dovodio je ljude u kamionima u ogromne hale.

And he sat them down for two hours,

Postavio ih je za sto na dva sata

and over the course of that two hours, he gave them ten bowls.

i tokom ta dva sata dao im je deset činija.

Ten small bowls of pasta,

Deset malih činija paste,

with a different spaghetti sauce on each one.

sa drugačijim sosom u svakoj.

And after they ate each bowl, they had to rate, from 0 to 100,

Kada bi pojeli svaku činiju, morali su da ocene od 0 do 100,

how good they thought the spaghetti sauce was.

koliko je, po njihovom mišljenju, sos bio dobar.

At the end of that process, after doing it for months and months,

Na kraju tog procesa, posle meseci i meseci isprobavanja,

he had a mountain of data

imao je brdo podataka

about how the American people feel about spaghetti sauce.

o tome šta Amerikanci misle o sosu za špagete.

And then he analyzed the data.

A onda je analizirao podatke.

Did he look for the most popular variety of spaghetti sauce?

Da li je tražio najpopularniju varijantu sosa?

No! Howard doesn't believe that there is such a thing.

Ne! Hauard ne veruje da tako nešto postoji.

Instead, he looked at the data, and he said,

Umesto toga, pogledao je podatke i rekao:

let's see if we can group all these different data points into clusters.

hajde da grupišemo ove različite podatke u klastere.

Let's see if they congregate around certain ideas.

Da vidimo da li se okupljaju oko nekih određenih ideja.

And sure enough, if you sit down,

I naravno, ako sednete

and you analyze all this data on spaghetti sauce,

i analizirate sve te podatke o sosu za špagete,

you realize that all Americans fall into one of three groups.

shvatite da se svi Amerikanci mogu svrstati u jednu od tri grupe.

There are people who like their spaghetti sauce plain;

Oni koji vole običan sos za špagete;

there are people who like their spaghetti sauce spicy;

oni koji vole začinjen sos za špagete;

and there are people who like it extra chunky.

i oni koji vole veoma gust.

And of those three facts, the third one was the most significant,

I od te tri činjenice, treća je bila najznačajnija,

because at the time, in the early 1980s,

jer u to vreme, ranih osamdesetih,

if you went to a supermarket,

u supermarketima

you would not find extra-chunky spaghetti sauce.

niste mogli da pronađete veoma gust sos za špagete.

And Prego turned to Howard, and they said,

"Prego" je rekao Hauardu:

"You're telling me that one third of Americans

"Kažeš nam da trećina Amerikanaca

crave extra-chunky spaghetti sauce

želi veoma gust sos za špagete

and yet no one is servicing their needs?"

i da niko ne odgovara na njihove potrebe?"

And he said "Yes!"

Rekao je: "Da!"

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

And Prego then went back,

I "Prego" se vratio

and completely reformulated their spaghetti sauce,

i potpuno promenio formulu svog sosa za špagete,

and came out with a line of extra chunky that immediately and completely

i izbacio novu liniju veoma gustog koji je odmah i potpuno

took over the spaghetti sauce business in this country.

preuzeo tržište sosa za špagete u ovoj zemlji.

And over the next 10 years, they made 600 million dollars

I u narednih 10 godina, zaradili su 600 miliona dolara

off their line of extra-chunky sauces.

od svoje linije veoma gustih sosova.

Everyone else in the industry looked at what Howard had done, and they said,

Svi ostali u industriji su gledali šta je Hauard uradio i rekli:

"Oh my god! We've been thinking all wrong!"

"O, bože! Pogrešno smo razmišljali!"

And that's when you started to get seven different kinds of vinegar,

I tada ste dobili 7 različitih vrsta sirćeta,

and 14 different kinds of mustard, and 71 different kinds of olive oil.

14 različitih vrsta senfa, 71 vrstu maslinovog ulja.

And then eventually even Ragù hired Howard,

I na kraju je čak i "Ragu" zaposlio Hauarda,

and Howard did the exact same thing for Ragù that he did for Prego.

i Hauard je za njih uradio isto što je uradio za "Prego".

And today, if you go to a really good supermarket,

A danas, ako odete u dobar supermarket,

do you know how many Ragùs there are?

znate li koliko "Ragu" sosova ima?

36!

36!

In six varieties:

U šest varijanti:

Cheese, Light,

Sir, Lagani,

Robusto, Rich & Hearty,

Robusni, Bogat i srčan,

Old World Traditional --

Stari tradicionalni -

Extra-Chunky Garden.

Veoma gust iz bašte.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

That's Howard's doing.

To je Hauardovo delo.

That is Howard's gift to the American people.

To je Haurdov dar američkom narodu.

Now why is that important?

Zašto je to važno?

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

It is, in fact, enormously important.

U stvari, od velike je važnosti.

I'll explain to you why.

Objasniću vam zašto.

What Howard did is he fundamentally changed the way the food industry thinks

Hauard je u osnovi promenio način na koji prehrambena industrija razmišlja

about making you happy.

da nas učini srećnima.

Assumption number one in the food industry used to be

Prva pretpostavka u prehrambenoj industriji

that the way to find out what people want to eat,

bila je da, da biste saznali šta ljudi žele da jedu,

what will make people happy, is to ask them.

šta će ljude učiniti srećnima, treba da ih pitate.

And for years and years and years,

I tokom godina i godina

Ragù and Prego would have focus groups,

"Ragu" i "Prego" su organizovali fokus grupe,

and they would sit you down, and they would say,

seli bi s vama i pitali vas:

"What do you want in a spaghetti sauce?

"Kakav sos za špagete želite?

Tell us what you want in a spaghetti sauce."

Recite nam kakav sos tražite."

And for all those years -- 20, 30 years --

I tokom svih tih godina - 20, 30 godina -

through all those focus group sessions,

u svim tim sesijama sa fokus grupama,

no one ever said they wanted extra-chunky.

niko nije rekao da želi veoma gust.

Even though at least a third of them, deep in their hearts, actually did.

Iako je trećina njih, duboko u duši, to želela.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

People don't know what they want!

Ljudi ne znaju šta žele!

As Howard loves to say,

Kako Hauard voli da kaže:

"The mind knows not what the tongue wants."

"Um ne zna šta jezik želi."

It's a mystery!

To je misterija!

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

And a critically important step

Izuzetno važan korak

in understanding our own desires and tastes

za razumevanje naših želja i ukusa

is to realize that we cannot always explain what we want, deep down.

je da shvatimo da ne možemo uvek da objasnimo šta želimo, duboko u sebi.

If I asked all of you, for example, in this room, what you want in a coffee,

Na primer, da pitam sve vas, u ovoj prostoriji, kakvu kafu želite,

you know what you'd say?

znate li šta biste rekli?

Every one of you would say, "I want a dark, rich, hearty roast."

Doslovno svi biste rekli: "Želim crnu, bogatu, jaku."

It's what people always say when you ask them.

To ljudi uvek kažu kad ih pitate.

"What do you like?" "Dark, rich, hearty roast!"

"Kakvu volite?" "Crnu, bogatu, jaku!"

What percentage of you actually like a dark, rich, hearty roast?

Koliko vas zaista voli crnu, bogatu, jaku?

According to Howard, somewhere between 25 and 27 percent of you.

Po Hauardu, između 25 i 27%.

Most of you like milky, weak coffee.

Većina vas voli mlečnu, slabu kafu.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

But you will never, ever say to someone who asks you what you want

Ali kada vas neko pita kakvu želite, nikada nećete reći:

that "I want a milky, weak coffee."

"Želim mlečnu, slabu kafu."

So that's number one thing that Howard did.

Dakle, to je prva stvar koju je Haurd uradio.

Number two thing that Howard did is he made us realize --

Druga stvar, naveo nas je da shvatimo -

it's another very critical point --

to je još jedna veoma važna stvar -

he made us realize the importance

naveo nas je da shvatimo značaj

of what he likes to call "horizontal segmentation."

onoga što on naziva "horizontalno segmentiranje".

Why is this critical?

Zašto je ovo važno?

Because this is the way the food industry thought before Howard.

Zato što je tako prehrambena industrija razmišljala pre Hauarda.

What were they obsessed with in the early 80s?

Čime su bili opsednuti ranih osamdesetih?

They were obsessed with mustard.

Bili su opsednuti senfom.

In particular, they were obsessed with the story of Grey Poupon.

Preciznije, bili su opsednuti pričom o "Sivom puponu".

Used to be, there were two mustards: French's and Gulden's.

Nekada su postojala dva senfa: "Frenčov" i "Guldenov".

What were they? Yellow mustard.

Kakvi su oni bili? Žuti senfovi.

What's in it?

Šta je u njima?

Yellow mustard seeds, turmeric, and paprika.

Žuto seme slačice, kurkuma i aleva paprika.

That was mustard.

To je bio senf.

Grey Poupon came along, with a Dijon.

"Sivi pupon" je izbacio "Dižon".

Right?

Je l' tako?

Much more volatile brown mustard seed, some white wine, a nose hit,

Mnogo nestalnije braon seme slačice, malo belog vina, sjajan miris,

much more delicate aromatics.

mnogo delikatnija aroma.

And what do they do?

I šta rade?

They put it in a little tiny glass jar, with a wonderful enameled label on it,

Stavljaju ga u malu staklenu teglu sa lepom etiketom,

made it look French,

naprave da izgleda francuski

even though it's made in Oxnard, California.

iako je napravljen u Oksnardu, u Kaliforniji.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

And instead of charging a dollar fifty for the eight-ounce bottle,

I umesto da naplate 1,5 dolar za teglu od 500 grama,

the way that French's and Gulden's did,

kao što su radili "Frenč" i "Gulden",

they decided to charge four dollars.

odlučili su da naplate četiri dolara.

And they had those ads.

Imali su i reklame.

With the guy in the Rolls Royce, eating the Grey Poupon.

Sa tipom u Rols Rojsu, koji jede "Sivi pupon".

Another pulls up, and says, "Do you have any Grey Poupon?"

Drugi se približi i pita: "Imate li "Sivog pupona"?"

And the whole thing, after they did that, Grey Poupon takes off!

I posle toga, "Sivi pupon" se vinuo u nebesa!

Takes over the mustard business!

Preuzeo je tržište senfa!

And everyone's take-home lesson from that

I lekcija koju su svi izvukli iz toga

was that the way to make people happy

bila je da je način da se ljudi usreće,

is to give them something that is more expensive,

taj da im se da nešto skuplje,

something to aspire to.

nešto čemu mogu da teže.

It's to make them turn their back on what they think they like now,

Da okrenu leđa onome što misle da vole sada

and reach out for something higher up the mustard hierarchy.

i da teže nečemu višem u hijerarhiji senfa.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

A better mustard! A more expensive mustard!

Boljem senfu! Skupljem senfu!

A mustard of more sophistication and culture and meaning.

Sofisticiranijem senfu, sa više kulture i smisla.

And Howard looked to that and said, "That's wrong!"

Hauard je to pogledao i rekao: "To je pogrešno!"

Mustard does not exist on a hierarchy.

Senf nema hijerarhiju.

Mustard exists, just like tomato sauce, on a horizontal plane.

Senf, kao i sos od paradajza, postoji na horizontalnoj ravni.

There is no good mustard or bad mustard.

Ne postoji dobar ili loš senf.

There is no perfect mustard or imperfect mustard.

Ne postoji savršen ili nesavršen senf.

There are only different kinds of mustards that suit different kinds of people.

Postoje samo različite vrste senfa koje odgovaraju različitim ljudima.

He fundamentally democratized the way we think about taste.

On je u osnovi demokratizovao način na koji razmišljamo o ukusu.

And for that, as well, we owe Howard Moskowitz a huge vote of thanks.

I za to, takođe, dugujemo Hauardu Moskovicu veliku zahvalnost.

Third thing that Howard did, and perhaps the most important,

Treća i možda najvažnija stvar koju je Hauard uradio,

is Howard confronted the notion of the Platonic dish.

bila je da se suoči sa idejom platonskog jela.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

What do I mean by that?

Šta pod tim podrazumevam?

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

For the longest time in the food industry,

Veoma dugo, u prehrambenoj industriji,

there was a sense that there was one way,

važilo je mišljenje da postoji jedan,

a perfect way, to make a dish.

savršeni način, da se napravi jelo.

You go to Chez Panisse,

Odete u "Chez Panisse",

they give you the red-tail sashimi with roasted pumpkin seeds

oni vam daju crveni sašimi sa prženim semenom bundeve

in a something something reduction.

u nekakvom sosu.

They don't give you five options on the reduction.

Ne daju vam pet varijanti sosa.

They don't say, "Do you want the extra-chunky reduction, or ...?"

Ne pitaju da li želite ekstra gusti sos...

No!

Ne!

You just get the reduction. Why?

Dobijete samo sos. Zašto?

Because the chef at Chez Panisse

Zato što šef u tom restoranu

has a Platonic notion about red-tail sashimi.

o crvenom sašimiju razmišlja platonski.

"This is the way it ought to be."

"Ovako treba da bude."

And she serves it that way time and time again,

I tako ga služi stalno,

and if you quarrel with her, she will say,

a ako se raspravljate s njom, reći će:

"You know what? You're wrong!

"Znaš šta? Ti grešiš!

This is the best way it ought to be in this restaurant."

Ovo je najbolje kako treba da bude u ovom restoranu."

Now that same idea fueled the commercial food industry as well.

Ta ideja je napajala i komercijalnu prehrambenu industriju.

They had a Platonic notion of what tomato sauce was.

Platonski su ramišljali o paradajz sosu.

And where did that come from? It came from Italy.

A odakle je to došlo? Iz Italije.

Italian tomato sauce is what?

Kakav je italijanski paradajz sos?

It's blended; it's thin.

Ujednačen; redak.

The culture of tomato sauce was thin.

Kultura paradajz sosa je bila retka.

When we talked about "authentic tomato sauce" in the 1970s,

Kada smo, sedamdesetih, razgovarali o "autentičnom paradajz sosu",

we talked about Italian tomato sauce,

govorili smo o italijanskom paradajz sosu,

we talked about the earliest Ragùs,

o najranijem "Raguovom" sosu,

which had no visible solids, right?

koji nije imao vidljivih komadića, je l' tako?

Which were thin, you just put a little bit

Koji je bio redak,

sipate malo i on potone na dno testa.

and it sunk down to the bottom of the pasta.

That's what it was.

Takav je bio.

And why were we attached to that?

I zašto smo bili vezani za to?

Because we thought that what it took to make people happy

Jer, pod A, mislili smo da, da bismo usrećili ljude,

was to provide them with the most culturally authentic tomato sauce, A.

treba da im damo kulturno najautentičniji paradajz sos.

And B, we thought that if we gave them the culturally authentic tomato sauce,

I B, mislili smo da ako im damo taj kulturno najautentičniji sos,

then they would embrace it.

oni će ga prihvatiti.

And that's what would please the maximum number of people.

I to bi zadovoljilo najveći broj ljudi.

In other words,

Drugim rečima,

people in the cooking world were looking for cooking universals.

ljudi u kulinarskom svetu su tražili nešto univerzalno.

They were looking for one way to treat all of us.

Hteli su da nas sve tretiraju jednako.

And it's good reason for them to be obsessed

Dobar im je razlog da budu opsednuti

with the idea of universals,

idejom o univerzalnom,

because all of science,

jer je sva nauka,

through the 19th century and much of the 20th,

tokom 19. i većinom 20. veka

was obsessed with universals.

bila opsednuta univerzalnim.

Psychologists, medical scientists, economists

Psiholozi, medicinari, ekonomisti,

were all interested in finding out the rules

svi su bili zainteresovani da pronađu pravila

that govern the way all of us behave.

koja upravljaju našim ponašanjem.

But that changed, right?

Ali to se promenilo, zar ne?

What is the great revolution in science of the last 10, 15 years?

Šta je velika revolucija u nauci, poslednjih 10, 15 godina?

It is the movement from the search for universals

Pokret od traganja za univerzalnim,

to the understanding of variability.

do razumevanja različitosti.

Now in medical science, we don't want to know, necessarily,

U medicini, mi ne želimo da znamo

just how cancer works,

samo kako rak funkcioniše,

we want to know how your cancer is different from my cancer.

želimo da znamo kako se vaš rak razlikuje od mog.

I guess my cancer different from your cancer.

Pretpostavljam da su različiti.

Genetics has opened the door to the study of human variability.

Genetika je otvorila vrata izučavanju ljudskih različitosti.

What Howard Moskowitz was doing was saying,

Hauard Moskovic je govorio:

"This same revolution needs to happen in the world of tomato sauce."

"Ova ista revolucija mora da se desi i u svetu paradajz sosa."

And for that, we owe him a great vote of thanks.

I za to mu dugujemo veliku zahvalnost.

I'll give you one last illustration of variability,

Daću vam još jednu ilustraciju različitosti,

and that is -- oh, I'm sorry.

a to je - o, izvinite.

Howard not only believed that, but he took it a second step,

Hauard nije samo verovao u to, nego je otišao korak dalje,

which was to say that when we pursue universal principles in food,

a to je da je rekao da kad tražimo univerzalne principe u hrani,

we aren't just making an error;

mi ne samo da grešimo;

we are actually doing ourselves a massive disservice.

mi činimo sebi ogromnu medveđu uslugu.

And the example he used was coffee.

Primer koji je koristio je kafa.

And coffee is something he did a lot of work with, with Nescafé.

Sa kafom je mnogo radio, za "Nescafe".

If I were to ask all of you to try and come up with a brand of coffee --

Da vas pitam da pokušate da smislite marku kafe -

a type of coffee, a brew -- that made all of you happy,

vrstu kafe, mešavinu - koja vas sve čini zadovoljnim,

and then I asked you to rate that coffee,

i onda tražim od vas da je ocenite,

the average score in this room for coffee would be about 60 on a scale of 0 to 100.

prosečna ocena ovde, za tu kafu bila bi 60 na skali od 0 do 100.

If, however, you allowed me to break you into coffee clusters,

Međutim, ako biste mi dozvolili da vas podelim u grupe kafe,

maybe three or four coffee clusters,

možda tri ili četiri grupe,

and I could make coffee just for each of those individual clusters,

i kad bih napravio kafu za svaku od tih grupa,

your scores would go from 60 to 75 or 78.

vaša ocena promenila bi se sa 60 na 75 ili 78.

The difference between coffee at 60 and coffee at 78

Razlika između kafe na 60 i kafe na 78

is a difference between coffee that makes you wince,

je razlika između kafe od koje pravite grimasu

and coffee that makes you deliriously happy.

i kafe koja vas čini izuzetno srećnim.

That is the final, and I think most beautiful lesson,

To je poslednja, i mislim i najlepša lekcija

of Howard Moskowitz:

Hauarda Moskovica:

that in embracing the diversity of human beings,

prihvatanjem različitosti ljudskih bića,

we will find a surer way to true happiness.

pronaći ćemo sigurniji put do istinske sreće.

Thank you.

Hvala vam.

(Applause)

(Aplauz)