Choice, happiness and spaghetti sauce | Malcolm Gladwell

譯者: Jeannie Cheng 審譯者: Grace Tung

I think I was supposed to talk about my new book,

我想我今天應該是要談我的新書，

which is called "Blink,"

書名叫《決斷2秒間》，探討的是瞬間判斷和第一印象。

and it's about snap judgments and first impressions.

And it comes out in January, and I hope you all buy it in triplicate.

它會明年一月上市，希望大家都各買三本。

(Laughter)

但是當我在想這件事情的時候，

But I was thinking about this,

and I realized that although my new book makes me happy,

我發現雖然我的新書讓我開心、

也會讓我媽開心，

and I think would make my mother happy,

it's not really about happiness.

這些卻跟快樂無關。

So I decided instead, I would talk about someone

所以，我決定不要談新書，而是跟大家介紹一位

who I think has done as much to make Americans happy

我覺得在這過去二十年來，

as perhaps anyone over the last 20 years,

比誰都讓美國人快樂的人。

a man who is a great personal hero of mine:

這個人是我心目中的英雄。

someone by the name of Howard Moskowitz,

他的名字是默斯克韋茲。

who is most famous for reinventing spaghetti sauce.

他以重新發明義大利麵醬而聞名。

Howard's about this high, and he's round,

默斯克韋茲大概這麼高、身材圓滾滾、

and he's in his 60s, and he has big huge glasses

六十來歲、戴著巨大的眼鏡、

和稀疏的白髮、流露出一種奇妙的活力和朝氣，

and thinning gray hair,

and he has a kind of wonderful exuberance and vitality,

and he has a parrot, and he loves the opera,

他養了一隻鸚鵡、熱愛歌劇、

and he's a great aficionado of medieval history.

也是中世紀歷史的愛好者。

And by profession, he's a psychophysicist.

他的職業是心理物理學家。

Now, I should tell you that I have no idea what psychophysics is,

我應該告訴你們，我完全不知道心理物理學是什麼東西，

although at some point in my life,

雖然我曾經跟一個攻讀

I dated a girl for two years

who was getting her doctorate in psychophysics.

心理物理學博士的女生約會。

Which should tell you something about that relationship.

這大概透露出那段感情的一些訊息。（笑聲）

(Laughter)

As far as I know, psychophysics is about measuring things.

從我所知道的，心理物理學是要測量東西。

And Howard is very interested in measuring things.

而默斯克韋茲對測量東西非常有興趣。

And he graduated with his doctorate from Harvard,

他得到哈佛博士後，

在紐約的White Plains成立了一家小顧問公司。

and he set up a little consulting shop in White Plains, New York.

他的第一個客戶就是－這是在很多年前，在七零年代初期

And one of his first clients was Pepsi.

This is many years ago, back in the early 70s.

－他的第一個客戶就是百事可樂。

And Pepsi came to Howard and they said,

百事可樂找了默斯克韋茲，說：

"You know, there's this new thing called aspartame,

"你知道嗎，現在有個新東西叫阿斯巴甜，

and we would like to make Diet Pepsi.

我們想要用來做健怡百事可樂。

We'd like you to figure out

我們希望你可以幫我們研究出，我們應該在每罐健怡百事可樂

how much aspartame we should put in each can of Diet Pepsi

放入多少阿斯巴甜，才會得到最完美的飲料。" 對嗎？

in order to have the perfect drink."

Now that sounds like an incredibly straightforward question to answer,

這聽起來應該是個最可以直接回答的問題，

and that's what Howard thought.

默斯克韋茲也是這麼想。因為百事可樂告訴他，

Because Pepsi told him,

"We're working with a band between eight and 12 percent.

"看，我們目前正在考慮界於百分之8和百分之12之間的甜度。

Anything below eight percent sweetness is not sweet enough;

百分之8以下的甜度不夠甜、

anything above 12 percent sweetness is too sweet.

而百分之12以上的甜度太甜。

We want to know: what's the sweet spot between 8 and 12?"

我們想知道，界乎百分之8和12之間的理想甜值是多少？"

Now, if I gave you this problem to do, you would all say, it's very simple.

假如我現在叫你們解決這個問題，你們一定會說："很簡單啦！"

What we do is you make up a big experimental batch of Pepsi,

首先，製造一大批的百事可樂做實驗，

at every degree of sweetness -- eight percent, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,

製造不同的甜度－百分之8、 8.1、8.2、8.3，

all the way up to 12 --

一直到百分之12－讓幾千個人試喝，

and we try this out with thousands of people,

and we plot the results on a curve,

再把數據畫成曲線圖，

and we take the most popular concentration, right?

然後再取最受歡迎的甜度。對吧？很簡單。

Really simple.

Howard does the experiment, and he gets the data back,

默斯克韋茲做了實驗，得到數據，再畫成曲線圖，

and he plots it on a curve,

and all of a sudden he realizes it's not a nice bell curve.

卻突然發現不是一個漂亮的鐘形曲線。

In fact, the data doesn't make any sense.

事實上，從數據上根本看不出個所以然來。

It's a mess. It's all over the place.

它亂無章法，分佈在各處。

Now, most people in that business, in the world of testing food and such,

其實，大部分從事那種行業的人、在食品測試之類的世界裡，

are not dismayed when the data comes back a mess.

得到這種亂無章法的數據都不會感到驚訝。

They think, "Well, you know,

figuring out what people think about cola's not that easy."

他們會想說："嗯，你知道嘍，要搞清楚大家對可樂的喜好並沒有那麼簡單。"

"You know, maybe we made an error somewhere along the way."

"嗯，也許我們在實驗的過程中哪裡出了錯。"

"You know, let's just make an educated guess,"

"嗯，那我們來做個學術性的猜測，"

and they simply point and they go for 10 percent,

然後他們就指向百分之10，就在正中間。

right in the middle.

Howard is not so easily placated.

默斯克韋茲可就沒這麼容易說服。

Howard is a man of a certain degree of intellectual standards.

默斯克韋茲是個秉持某程度的智慧標準的人。

And this was not good enough for him,

這種作法無法滿足他，

and this question bedeviled him for years.

而這個問題也困惑了他好幾年。

And he would think it through and say, "What was wrong?

他會徹底的去想究竟哪裡出錯。

Why could we not make sense of this experiment with Diet Pepsi?"

為什麼我們不能令這個健怡百事可樂的實驗有意義?

And one day, he was sitting in a diner in White Plains,

有一天他坐在 White Plains裡用餐，

about to go trying to dream up some work for Nescafé.

開始嘗試幻想為雀巢咖啡的事情。

And suddenly, like a bolt of lightning, the answer came to him.

突然之間，好像靈光一閃，答案閃入他的腦中。

And that is, that when they analyzed the Diet Pepsi data,

那就是當他們分析健怡百事可樂的數據時，

they were asking the wrong question.

他們問了一個錯誤的問題。

They were looking for the perfect Pepsi,

他們在找一個完美的百事可樂，

and they should have been looking for the perfect Pepsis.

而他們應該找多個完美的百事可樂。相信我吧!

Trust me.

This was an enormous revelation.

這是一個重大的啟發。

This was one of the most brilliant breakthroughs in all of food science.

這是在飲食這門科學中其中一個最聰明的突破。

Howard immediately went on the road,

而默斯克韋茲立即出發

and he would go to conferences around the country,

到世界各地的研討會

and he would stand up and say,

去演說。他會說:

"You had been looking for the perfect Pepsi.

"你們尋找一個完美的百事可樂是錯的。

You're wrong.

You should be looking for the perfect Pepsis."

你們應該尋找多種完美的百事可樂。"

And people would look at him blankly and say,

而其他人很茫然的望著他，並說，

"What are you talking about? Craziness."

"你在說什麼?你瘋了。"

And they would say, "Move! Next!"

他們會續說，"好，下一位!"

Tried to get business, nobody would hire him --

他嘗試找生意。沒有人聘用他 -- 但他仍然堅持

he was obsessed, though,

and he talked about it and talked about it.

他不斷的談及它，再談及它，再談及它。

Howard loves the Yiddish expression

默斯克韋茲很愛意第緒語的一句表達

"To a worm in horseradish, the world is horseradish."

"對於一個在辣根的蠕蟲來說，世界只有辣根。"

This was his horseradish.

這是他的辣根。 (笑聲) 他對此很堅持。

(Laughter)

He was obsessed with it!

And finally, he had a breakthrough.

最後他有一個突破，弗拉希奇醬菜找他

Vlasic Pickles came to him,

and they said, "Doctor Moskowitz, we want to make the perfect pickle."

他們說，"默斯克韋茲先生 -- 默斯克韋茲博士 --

我們想製造完美的醬菜。" 而他回答說，

And he said,

"There is no perfect pickle; there are only perfect pickles."

"世上沒有一個完美的醬菜，只有完美的醬菜們。"

And he came back to them and he said,

他回去跟他們說，"你們不只要改善你們的常規，

"You don't just need to improve your regular;

you need to create zesty."

也需要創造驚喜。"

And that's where we got zesty pickles.

這就是我們得到美好的醬菜的方法。

Then the next person came to him: Campbell's Soup.

跟著找他的是康寶濃湯。

And this was even more important.

這個更為重要。事實上

In fact, Campbell's Soup is where Howard made his reputation.

康寶濃湯是令默斯克韋茲成名的。

Campbell's made Prego,

and Prego, in the early 80s, was struggling next to Ragù,

康寶濃湯生產 Prego，而 Prego 在八零年代初在 Ragu 的競爭中掙扎求存。

which was the dominant spaghetti sauce of the 70s and 80s.

Ragu 在七零和八零年代是最主要的義大利麪醬。

In the industry -- I don't know whether you care about this,

現在在這個行業裡 -- 我不知道你對此有多少關心，

or how much time I have to go into this.

或我應花多少時間說明。

但，以技術上來說，

But it was, technically speaking -- this is an aside --

Prego 比 Ragu 有更好的蕃茄醬。

Prego is a better tomato sauce than Ragù.

The quality of the tomato paste is much better;

蕃茄膏的品質更好，香料的配搭更出色。

the spice mix is far superior;

it adheres to the pasta in a much more pleasing way.

它更容易黏附在義大利麪。事實上

In fact, they would do the famous bowl test

他們在七零年代用Ragu 和 Prego 做了一個很有名的測試。

back in the 70s with Ragù and Prego.

You'd have a plate of spaghetti, and you would pour it on, right?

如果你有一盤義大利麪，你會把醬倒上去，對嗎?

And the Ragù would all go to the bottom, and the Prego would sit on top.

而 Ragu 會全沉在底下， 而 Prego 則會凝在表層。

That's called "adherence."

這就是"黏附性"。

And, anyway, despite the fact that they were far superior in adherence,

無論如何，儘管事實證明它們的黏附性較優，

and the quality of their tomato paste,

蕃茄醬的品質較好，Prego 還是掙扎著。

Prego was struggling.

So they came to Howard, and they said, fix us.

所以他們去與默斯克韋茲見面並說，幫我們調整吧。

And Howard looked at their product line, and he said,

默斯克韋茲看了他們的生產線後說，

what you have is a dead tomato society.

"你們所擁有的是一個已死的蕃茄社會。

So he said, this is what I want to do.

這是我將會做的。

And he got together with the Campbell's soup kitchen,

他在康寶濃湯的廚房裡

and he made 45 varieties of spaghetti sauce.

製造45種不同的義大利麪醬，把它們

And he varied them according to every conceivable way

根據各種可能分辨蕃茄醬的方式分類。

that you can vary tomato sauce:

by sweetness, by level of garlic,

以甜度，蒜的多少，辛辣度，酸度，蕃茄的濃度，

by tomatoey-ness, by tartness, by sourness,

可見的料的多少 -- 這是我在義大利麪的行業中最喜歡的詞語。 (笑聲)

by visible solids --

my favorite term in the spaghetti sauce business.

(Laughter)

Every conceivable way you can vary spaghetti sauce,

用各種可變化的方式來產出不同的蕃茄醬。

he varied spaghetti sauce.

And then he took this whole raft of 45 spaghetti sauces,

然後他就帶著全部45種義大利麪醬出發。

and he went on the road.

He went to New York, to Chicago,

他到了紐約，芝加哥，傑克遜維，洛杉磯。

he went to Jacksonville, to Los Angeles.

他用貨車載人到大禮堂

And he brought in people by the truckload into big halls.

And he sat them down for two hours,

在兩小時裡給他們

and over the course of that two hours, he gave them ten bowls.

十碗義大利麪。

Ten small bowls of pasta,

這十碗義大利麪各有不同的醬。

with a different spaghetti sauce on each one.

And after they ate each bowl, they had to rate, from 0 to 100,

當他們每嚐完一碗後，他們都以零至100中給評分。

how good they thought the spaghetti sauce was.

評定哪一款義大利麪他們覺得最好。

At the end of that process, after doing it for months and months,

經過多個月來的試吃後，

he had a mountain of data

他得到了很多有關美國人

about how the American people feel about spaghetti sauce.

對義大利麪醬感想的數據。

And then he analyzed the data.

他分析結果。

Did he look for the most popular variety of spaghetti sauce?

但他有沒有去尋找最熱門的口味呢? 沒有!

No! Howard doesn't believe that there is such a thing.

默斯克韋茲不相信有這樣東西。

Instead, he looked at the data, and he said,

相反，他看著數據

let's see if we can group all these different data points into clusters.

希望把它們組成群組。

Let's see if they congregate around certain ideas.

看看是否可得出某個概念。

And sure enough, if you sit down,

當然，如果你坐下來分析所有義大利麪的數據時，

and you analyze all this data on spaghetti sauce,

you realize that all Americans fall into one of three groups.

你會發現美國人的口味可分三種。

There are people who like their spaghetti sauce plain;

有些人喜歡醬料樸實，

there are people who like their spaghetti sauce spicy;

有些人喜歡醬料辛辣，

and there are people who like it extra chunky.

有些人喜歡醬料特別有咬感。

And of those three facts, the third one was the most significant,

在這三類中，尤以第三種更為明顯。

because at the time, in the early 1980s,

因為在當時，在八零年代初，

if you went to a supermarket,

若你到超級市場，

you would not find extra-chunky spaghetti sauce.

你無法發現特別爽脆的義大利麪醬。

And Prego turned to Howard, and they said,

Prego 轉向默斯克韋茲問到，

"You're telling me that one third of Americans

"你告訴我有三分之一美國人鍾情特別爽脆的義大利麪醬，

crave extra-chunky spaghetti sauce

and yet no one is servicing their needs?"

但沒有人滿足他們的要求?" 他回答說，"是。"

And he said "Yes!"

(Laughter)

And Prego then went back,

(笑聲) Prego 回去

and completely reformulated their spaghetti sauce,

完全把他們的義大利麪醬重新調配，

and came out with a line of extra chunky that immediately and completely

製造一系列特別爽脆的醬。這立即而且完全

took over the spaghetti sauce business in this country.

攻佔全國整個義大利麪的工業。

And over the next 10 years, they made 600 million dollars

而在之後的十數年裡，他們從這個特別爽脆的醬料中

off their line of extra-chunky sauces.

得到六億元的收入。

Everyone else in the industry looked at what Howard had done, and they said,

而其他所有在這行業的人望著默斯克韋茲的所為全都說，

"Oh my god! We've been thinking all wrong!"

"我的天呀! 我們全都想錯了。"

And that's when you started to get seven different kinds of vinegar,

而這就開始了七種不同口味的醋，

and 14 different kinds of mustard, and 71 different kinds of olive oil.

十四種不同的芥末，七十一種不同的橄欖油

And then eventually even Ragù hired Howard,

最終連Ragu 都聘請默斯克韋茲，

and Howard did the exact same thing for Ragù that he did for Prego.

而他為Ragu 作了完全相同的事情。

And today, if you go to a really good supermarket,

今天，若你到超級市場，非常好的那間，

你會看到多麼的Ragu

do you know how many Ragùs there are?

36!

你知道他們有多少種? 36 種!

In six varieties:

有六種類別: 乳酪，輕味， 羅布斯托，

Cheese, Light,

Robusto, Rich & Hearty,

濃厚，世界經典，特別爽脆，田園風味 (笑聲)

Old World Traditional --

Extra-Chunky Garden.

(Laughter)

That's Howard's doing.

這是默斯克韋茲貢獻的。這是他給美國人的禮物。

That is Howard's gift to the American people.

Now why is that important?

這有什麼重要呢?

(Laughter)

It is, in fact, enormously important.

事實上它是非常重要。讓我來說明。

I'll explain to you why.

What Howard did is he fundamentally changed the way the food industry thinks

默斯克韋茲從根本改變飲食業對

about making you happy.

如何滿足我們快樂的想法。

Assumption number one in the food industry used to be

它們以往首先假設

that the way to find out what people want to eat,

想要找出人類想吃什麼的方法

what will make people happy, is to ask them.

或想知道什麼會令他們高興 -- 是要去詢問他們。

And for years and years and years,

在很多很多年裡，Ragu 和 Prego會成立

Ragù and Prego would have focus groups,

焦點團體,他們會把顧客集合起來問他們，

and they would sit you down, and they would say,

"What do you want in a spaghetti sauce?

"你想要什麼的義大利麪醬呀? 告訴我你的需求吧。"

Tell us what you want in a spaghetti sauce."

And for all those years -- 20, 30 years --

在這二、三十年裡 --

through all those focus group sessions,

通過這些焦點團體，

no one ever said they wanted extra-chunky.

沒有人說他們想要特別爽脆。

Even though at least a third of them, deep in their hearts, actually did.

儘管當中至少有三分之一人從心底裡想要。

(Laughter)

(笑聲)

People don't know what they want!

人們不知道他們想要什麼! 對吧?

As Howard loves to say,

默斯克韋茲喜歡說，"頭腦不知道舌頭的喜好。"

"The mind knows not what the tongue wants."

It's a mystery!

這是一個謎!

(Laughter)

And a critically important step

而最關鍵的一點是　我們了解自己的慾望和口味時

in understanding our own desires and tastes

is to realize that we cannot always explain what we want, deep down.

才發現無法表達自己內心深處的想法

If I asked all of you, for example, in this room, what you want in a coffee,

例如，如果我問在這房間裡的你們，你們想要怎樣的咖啡，

you know what you'd say?

你會知道你會回答什麼嗎? 每個人都會答，"我要香濃碳燒黑咖啡。"

Every one of you would say, "I want a dark, rich, hearty roast."

It's what people always say when you ask them.

這是人們經常回答的答案。

"What do you like?" "Dark, rich, hearty roast!"

你喜歡哪一種? 香濃碳燒黑咖啡!

What percentage of you actually like a dark, rich, hearty roast?

究竟你們有多少個百分比的人真的喜歡香濃碳燒黑咖啡?

According to Howard, somewhere between 25 and 27 percent of you.

根據默斯克韋茲，大概介於百分之25 至27。

Most of you like milky, weak coffee.

你們大部份喜歡奶味淡咖啡。

(Laughter)

But you will never, ever say to someone who asks you what you want

但你們永遠不會向問你這問題的人說出你想要的 --

that "I want a milky, weak coffee."

"我想要奶味淡咖啡。"

So that's number one thing that Howard did.

所以這是默斯克韋茲的首要貢獻。

Number two thing that Howard did is he made us realize --

第二件默斯克韋茲讓我們明白的事 --

it's another very critical point --

這是另一個非常關鍵的點子 --

he made us realize the importance

他令我們明白他所謂的橫向分割的重要。

of what he likes to call "horizontal segmentation."

Why is this critical?

為什麼這是那麼的重要呢? 因為

Because this is the way the food industry thought before Howard.

這是飲食業在默斯克韋茲之前的想法。不對嗎?

What were they obsessed with in the early 80s?

是他們八零年代初所堅持? 他們對芥末的堅持。

They were obsessed with mustard.

In particular, they were obsessed with the story of Grey Poupon.

特別是對Grey Poupon 的故事所堅持。 對嗎?

Used to be, there were two mustards: French's and Gulden's.

以往有兩款芥末。法國味和古爾登味。

What were they? Yellow mustard.

它們是什麼? 黃色芥末。 它有什麼?

What's in it?

Yellow mustard seeds, turmeric, and paprika.

黃色芥末種子、薑黃和辣椒粉。 這就是芥末了。

That was mustard.

Grey Poupon came along, with a Dijon.

Grey Poupon 就有第戎。不是嗎?

Right?

Much more volatile brown mustard seed, some white wine, a nose hit,

比較易揮發的啡色芥末種子、一些白酒，

much more delicate aromatics.

和比較刺鼻的芳草。它們用作什麼?

And what do they do?

They put it in a little tiny glass jar, with a wonderful enameled label on it,

他們放在一個細小的玻璃瓶裡，有一個美妙的搪瓷標籤。

made it look French,

讓它看上去好像是法國製造但實際上是在加州奧克斯納德所製。

even though it's made in Oxnard, California.

(Laughter)

And instead of charging a dollar fifty for the eight-ounce bottle,

原本收取1.5元一瓶八盎司的芥末，

the way that French's and Gulden's did,

因為法國味和古爾登味，他們決定收取四元。

they decided to charge four dollars.

And they had those ads.

而他們有那些廣告，對嗎?有一個男子駕駛他的勞斯萊斯，

With the guy in the Rolls Royce, eating the Grey Poupon.

而他正吃著他的Grey Poupon。 另一輛勞斯萊斯駛來，

Another pulls up, and says, "Do you have any Grey Poupon?"

他便問到，"你有Grey Poupon 嗎?"

And the whole thing, after they did that, Grey Poupon takes off!

整個事件到最後，當他做完這個後，Grey Poupon 起飛!

Takes over the mustard business!

它攻佔芥末業!

And everyone's take-home lesson from that

而所有人從這得到的教訓是

was that the way to make people happy

要令他人感到高興

is to give them something that is more expensive,

就要給予他們一些更昂貴，一些令他們渴望的事物。對吧!

something to aspire to.

It's to make them turn their back on what they think they like now,

要他們背棄他們現在所想的，

and reach out for something higher up the mustard hierarchy.

去追求一些在芥末業裡更高的層次。

(Laughter)

A better mustard! A more expensive mustard!

一個更好的芥末。一個更昂貴的芥末。

A mustard of more sophistication and culture and meaning.

一個更複雜，更有文化和意義的芥末。

And Howard looked to that and said, "That's wrong!"

默斯克韋茲看著這並說，這是錯的!

Mustard does not exist on a hierarchy.

芥末是不存在等級。

Mustard exists, just like tomato sauce, on a horizontal plane.

芥末就好像蕃茄醬一樣只有平行面。

There is no good mustard or bad mustard.

這裡沒有好的芥末或壞的芥末。

There is no perfect mustard or imperfect mustard.

這裡沒有完美的芥末或不完美的芥末。

There are only different kinds of mustards that suit different kinds of people.

只有不同種類的芥末來迎合不同種類的人。

He fundamentally democratized the way we think about taste.

他從根本解放我們對味覺的想法。

And for that, as well, we owe Howard Moskowitz a huge vote of thanks.

就因為這樣　我們欠默斯克韋茲一個深深的感謝。

Third thing that Howard did, and perhaps the most important,

第三樣默斯克韋茲所做的大概是最重要的。

is Howard confronted the notion of the Platonic dish.

他對抗柏拉圖菜的概念。(笑聲)

(Laughter)

What do I mean by that?

我的意思是

(Laughter)

For the longest time in the food industry,

在飲食業界裡有很長時期

there was a sense that there was one way,

認為只有一種，完美的一種製作食物的方法

a perfect way, to make a dish.

You go to Chez Panisse,

你去到Chez Panisse, 他們會給你紅尾魚生魚片

they give you the red-tail sashimi with roasted pumpkin seeds

配烤南瓜種子在一個什麼的縮版上。

in a something something reduction.

They don't give you five options on the reduction.

他們不會給你五款縮版。對吧!

They don't say, "Do you want the extra-chunky reduction, or ...?"

他們不會說，你喜歡超爽脆縮版或你喜歡那個 -- 不會!

No!

You just get the reduction. Why?

你只能得到那個縮版。為什麼? 因為那個在 Chez Panisse 的廚師

Because the chef at Chez Panisse

has a Platonic notion about red-tail sashimi.

對紅尾魚有一份柏拉圖式的概念。

"This is the way it ought to be."

只有這才是紅尾魚的做法

And she serves it that way time and time again,

而她一次又一次的用這個方式供應。

and if you quarrel with her, she will say,

而若果你跟好爭辯，她會說，

"You know what? You're wrong!

"你知道嗎? 你是錯的! 這是這餐廳料理紅尾魚最好的方式。

This is the best way it ought to be in this restaurant."

Now that same idea fueled the commercial food industry as well.

現在這相同的想法亦同樣地激起整個商業飲食業。

They had a Platonic notion of what tomato sauce was.

他們有一個概念，柏拉圖式的概念，認為蕃茄醬應有的方式。

And where did that come from? It came from Italy.

而這個概念怎樣得來? 它原自義大利。

Italian tomato sauce is what?

義大利蕃茄醬是怎樣的? 它是混合的， 它是稀的。

It's blended; it's thin.

The culture of tomato sauce was thin.

蕃茄醬的傳統是稀的。

When we talked about "authentic tomato sauce" in the 1970s,

當我們在一九七零年代談到真實的蕃茄醬時，

we talked about Italian tomato sauce,

我們會說是義大利蕃茄醬。我們談到最初的Ragus 時，

we talked about the earliest Ragùs,

which had no visible solids, right?

它是沒有可見的固體，不是嗎?

Which were thin, you just put a little bit

它是薄薄的一小層

and it sunk down to the bottom of the pasta.

而它會流到義大利麪的底下。

That's what it was.

就是這樣。但我們為什麼對此執著呢?

And why were we attached to that?

因為我們想要令別人開心是

Because we thought that what it took to make people happy

was to provide them with the most culturally authentic tomato sauce, A.

要供給他們最傳統正宗的蕃茄醬，這是第一點。

And B, we thought that if we gave them the culturally authentic tomato sauce,

第二點是，你會想如果你給了他們最傳統正宗的蕃茄醬，

then they would embrace it.

他們會很感激。

And that's what would please the maximum number of people.

而這樣會令大部份人高興。

In other words,

我們有這種想法的原因 -- 換句話說，

people in the cooking world were looking for cooking universals.

在烹飪世界裡的人是尋求烹調的大同世界。

They were looking for one way to treat all of us.

他們尋找一個方法去滿足所有人。

And it's good reason for them to be obsessed

他們有很好的理由去堅持這種大同的思維，

with the idea of universals,

because all of science,

因為所有科學，從十九世紀至差不多二十世紀，

through the 19th century and much of the 20th,

was obsessed with universals.

都堅持著大同這個概念

Psychologists, medical scientists, economists

心理學家，醫學家，經濟學家們都有興趣了解

were all interested in finding out the rules

that govern the way all of us behave.

管轄我們行為的法則。

But that changed, right?

但這個變了，不對嗎?

What is the great revolution in science of the last 10, 15 years?

在過去十至十五年裡，科學有很大的革命。

It is the movement from the search for universals

這是從尋找大同到了解變異。

to the understanding of variability.

Now in medical science, we don't want to know, necessarily,

現在在醫學裡我們不一定要知道如何 --

just how cancer works,

例如癌症是如何產生。我們想知道你的癌症跟我的癌症有何分別。

we want to know how your cancer is different from my cancer.

I guess my cancer different from your cancer.

我想我的癌症跟你的癌症是不同的。

Genetics has opened the door to the study of human variability.

基因開啟了人類變異學的門。

What Howard Moskowitz was doing was saying,

而默斯克韋茲所做的正引證著

"This same revolution needs to happen in the world of tomato sauce."

蕃茄醬的世界應有這個相同的革命。

And for that, we owe him a great vote of thanks.

正因為此，我們欠他一個感激。

I'll give you one last illustration of variability,

我將舉最後一個有關變異的例子，就是 -- 噢，對不起。

and that is -- oh, I'm sorry.

Howard not only believed that, but he took it a second step,

默斯克韋茲不相信此，但他行了另一步，

which was to say that when we pursue universal principles in food,

就是當我們追求的普世的食物原則時，

we aren't just making an error;

我們不只是作了一個錯誤。我們其實是對自己作出一個重大的傷害。

we are actually doing ourselves a massive disservice.

And the example he used was coffee.

他所用的例子是咖啡。

And coffee is something he did a lot of work with, with Nescafé.

咖啡是他作了很多功課的事情，是與雀巢咖啡。

If I were to ask all of you to try and come up with a brand of coffee --

如果我請求在座的各位想出一個咖啡的品牌

a type of coffee, a brew -- that made all of you happy,

-- 一種咖啡，沖泡咖啡 -- 是令你高興的，

and then I asked you to rate that coffee,

然後我要求你為那個咖啡評分，

the average score in this room for coffee would be about 60 on a scale of 0 to 100.

在這裡咖啡的平均分數大概應該會是在零至100分中的60分。

If, however, you allowed me to break you into coffee clusters,

如果你容許我把你們分成一小群，

maybe three or four coffee clusters,

或許三或四個咖啡群，

and I could make coffee just for each of those individual clusters,

而我能為每一個群組沖泡一個獨特的咖啡，

your scores would go from 60 to 75 or 78.

你的評分將由60升至75 至78。

The difference between coffee at 60 and coffee at 78

60分的咖啡和78分的咖啡的分別是

is a difference between coffee that makes you wince,

那個咖啡能令你抽搐

and coffee that makes you deliriously happy.

和令你極其興奮的分別。

That is the final, and I think most beautiful lesson,

我想這是默斯克韋茲最後而且我想是最美妙的教訓。

of Howard Moskowitz:

that in embracing the diversity of human beings,

在容納人類多樣化的同時，

we will find a surer way to true happiness.

我們找到一個能令我們真正快樂的可靠方法。

Thank you.

(Applause)

謝謝。