Choice, happiness and spaghetti sauce | Malcolm Gladwell

Prevoditelj: Dijana Ivezic Recezent: Marko Rakar

I think I was supposed to talk about my new book,

Mislim da sam trebao govoriti o svojoj novoj knjizi

which is called "Blink,"

koja se zove "Treptaj" i govori o trenutnim procjenama i prvim dojmovima.

and it's about snap judgments and first impressions.

And it comes out in January, and I hope you all buy it in triplicate.

Knjiga izlazi u siječnju i nadam se da ćete ju svi kupiti u tri primjerka.

(Laughter)

No, razmišljajući o tome, shvatio sam

But I was thinking about this,

and I realized that although my new book makes me happy,

da, iako me moja knjiga čini sretnim,

a usrećit će i moju majku,

and I think would make my mother happy,

it's not really about happiness.

zapravo ne govori o sreći.

So I decided instead, I would talk about someone

Stoga sam odlučio govoriti o nekome

who I think has done as much to make Americans happy

tko je toliko radio da bi usrećio Amerikance,

as perhaps anyone over the last 20 years,

kao možda nitko u zadnjih 20 godina.

a man who is a great personal hero of mine:

Taj čovjek je moj osobni heroj.

someone by the name of Howard Moskowitz,

Čovjek koji se zove Howard Moskowitz i

who is most famous for reinventing spaghetti sauce.

koji je najpoznatiji po inoviranju umaka za špagete.

Howard's about this high, and he's round,

Howard je otprilike ovako visok i okrugao

and he's in his 60s, and he has big huge glasses

u 60-im je godinama i ima ogromne naočale,

rijetku sijedu kosu i prekrasnu životnost i vitalnost.

and thinning gray hair,

and he has a kind of wonderful exuberance and vitality,

and he has a parrot, and he loves the opera,

On ima papigu, voli operu i

and he's a great aficionado of medieval history.

veliki je ljubitelj srednjovjekovne povijesti.

And by profession, he's a psychophysicist.

Po zanimanju je psihofizičar.

Now, I should tell you that I have no idea what psychophysics is,

Moram priznati da nemam pojma što je psihofizičar,

although at some point in my life,

iako sam u jednoj fazi u životu dvije godine izlazio s curom

I dated a girl for two years

who was getting her doctorate in psychophysics.

koja je spremala doktorat iz psihofizike.

Which should tell you something about that relationship.

To bi vam trebalo nešto govoriti o toj vezi. (smijeh)

(Laughter)

As far as I know, psychophysics is about measuring things.

Jedino što znam je da je psihofizika vezana uz mjerenje,

And Howard is very interested in measuring things.

a Howarda mjerenje strašno zanima.

And he graduated with his doctorate from Harvard,

Diplomirao je i doktorirao na Harvardu te

pokrenuo malu konzultansku radnju u White Plainsu, New York.

and he set up a little consulting shop in White Plains, New York.

Jedan od njegovih prvih klijenata - a to je bilo davno, u 70-ima -

And one of his first clients was Pepsi.

This is many years ago, back in the early 70s.

bio je Pepsi.

And Pepsi came to Howard and they said,

Ljudi iz Pepsi došli su k Howardu i rekli:

"You know, there's this new thing called aspartame,

"Znate, postoji jedna nova stvar zvana aspartam,

and we would like to make Diet Pepsi.

pa bismo željeli napraviti dijetnu Pepsi.

We'd like you to figure out

Želimo da dokučite koliko aspartama bismo trebali staviti

how much aspartame we should put in each can of Diet Pepsi

u svaku limenku dijetne Pepsi, kako bismo dobili savršeno piće." Jasno?

in order to have the perfect drink."

Now that sounds like an incredibly straightforward question to answer,

To zvuči kao prilično konkretno pitanje i

and that's what Howard thought.

to je i Howard mislio. Zato što su mu iz Pepsija rekli:

Because Pepsi told him,

"We're working with a band between eight and 12 percent.

Gledajte, radi se o rasponu između 8 i 12 posto.

Anything below eight percent sweetness is not sweet enough;

Sve ispod 8 posto nije dovoljno slatko,

anything above 12 percent sweetness is too sweet.

dok je iznad 12 preslatko.

We want to know: what's the sweet spot between 8 and 12?"

Želimo znati koja je idealna mjera između 8 i 12?"

Now, if I gave you this problem to do, you would all say, it's very simple.

Kada bih vam zadao ovaj problem, svi biste rekli da je rješenje vrlo jednostavno.

What we do is you make up a big experimental batch of Pepsi,

Znači, napravimo eksperimentalnu smjesu za Pepsi

at every degree of sweetness -- eight percent, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,

na svakom stupnju slatkoće - 8 posto, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,

all the way up to 12 --

sve do 12 - a onda to isprobamo na tisućama ljudi.

and we try this out with thousands of people,

and we plot the results on a curve,

Unesemo rezultate na krivulju

and we take the most popular concentration, right?

i dobijemo najpopularniju koncentraciju. Točno? Zbilja jednostavno.

Really simple.

Howard does the experiment, and he gets the data back,

Howard je napravio ovaj eksperiment, dobio podatke i izradio krivulju, no

and he plots it on a curve,

and all of a sudden he realizes it's not a nice bell curve.

najednom je shvatio da to nije lijepa, zvonolika krivulja.

In fact, the data doesn't make any sense.

Zapravo, podaci uopće nemaju smisla,

It's a mess. It's all over the place.

posvuda je pravi nered.

Now, most people in that business, in the world of testing food and such,

Većina ljudi u tom biznisu, u svijetu kušača hrane i slično,

are not dismayed when the data comes back a mess.

nisu iznenađeni kada dobiju zbrkane podatke.

They think, "Well, you know,

figuring out what people think about cola's not that easy."

Pomisle, pa znate, nije tako lako saznati što ljudi misle o colama.

"You know, maybe we made an error somewhere along the way."

Možda smo putem negdje pogriješili.

"You know, let's just make an educated guess,"

Kada im postavite takvo pitanje,

and they simply point and they go for 10 percent,

jednostavno upru prstom u 10 posto, ravno u sredini.

right in the middle.

Howard is not so easily placated.

No, Howarda to ne zadovoljava.

Howard is a man of a certain degree of intellectual standards.

On traži određeni stupanj intelektualnih standarda.

And this was not good enough for him,

Za njega to jednostavno nije bilo dovoljno dobro

and this question bedeviled him for years.

i to pitanje ga je mučilo godinama.

And he would think it through and say, "What was wrong?

Razmišljao bi o svemu i pitao se što je krivo?

Why could we not make sense of this experiment with Diet Pepsi?"

Zašto eksperiment s dijetnom Pepsi nije imao smisla?

And one day, he was sitting in a diner in White Plains,

Jednog dana, sjedio je u sobi u White Plainsu

about to go trying to dream up some work for Nescafé.

kada je trebao smisliti nešto za Nescafe,

And suddenly, like a bolt of lightning, the answer came to him.

kad mu odjednom, poput udara munje, sine odgovor.

And that is, that when they analyzed the Diet Pepsi data,

Kada su analizirali podatke za dijetnu Pepsi,

they were asking the wrong question.

postavili su krivo pitanje.

They were looking for the perfect Pepsi,

Tražili su savršenu Pepsi,

and they should have been looking for the perfect Pepsis.

a trebali su tražiti savršene Pepsije. Vjerujte mi.

Trust me.

This was an enormous revelation.

To je bilo ogromno otkriće,

This was one of the most brilliant breakthroughs in all of food science.

jedno od najsjajnijih preokreta u prehrambenoj znanosti.

Howard immediately went on the road,

Howard je odmah krenuo na put,

and he would go to conferences around the country,

obilazio bi konferencije diljem zemlje,

and he would stand up and say,

gdje bi ustao i rekao:

"You had been looking for the perfect Pepsi.

Tražili ste savršenu Pepsi. Pogriješili ste.

You're wrong.

You should be looking for the perfect Pepsis."

Trebali biste tražiti savršene Pepsije."

And people would look at him blankly and say,

Ljudi bi ga blijedo pogledali i rekli:

"What are you talking about? Craziness."

"O čemu vi pričate? To je ludost."

And they would say, "Move! Next!"

A onda bi rekli "Ajmo, sljedeći!"

Tried to get business, nobody would hire him --

Pokušavao je dobiti posao, no nitko ga nije želio - bio je opsjednut

he was obsessed, though,

and he talked about it and talked about it.

i pričao je samo o tome i ničemu drugom.

Howard loves the Yiddish expression

Howard voli jidišku izreku:

"To a worm in horseradish, the world is horseradish."

"Crvu u hrenu, cijeli svijet je hren."

This was his horseradish.

Ovo je bio njegov hren (smijeh) i bio je opsjednut njime!

(Laughter)

He was obsessed with it!

And finally, he had a breakthrough.

Napokon je došlo do preokreta kada su došli ljudi iz Vlasic Pickles

Vlasic Pickles came to him,

and they said, "Doctor Moskowitz, we want to make the perfect pickle."

i rekli: "G. Moskowitz - doktore Moskowitz -

mi želimo napraviti savršen krastavac.", a on je rekao:

And he said,

"There is no perfect pickle; there are only perfect pickles."

"Ne postoji savršen krastavac, samo savršeni krastavci."

And he came back to them and he said,

Vratio se i rekao im: "Ne trebate samo poboljšati ono uobičajeno,

"You don't just need to improve your regular;

you need to create zesty."

morate stvoriti pikantnost."

And that's where we got zesty pickles.

I tako su nastali pikantni krastavci.

Then the next person came to him: Campbell's Soup.

Sljedeći klijent bio je Campbell's Soup

And this was even more important.

što je bilo vrlo važno jer je

In fact, Campbell's Soup is where Howard made his reputation.

upravo ondje Howard stekao svoj ugled.

Campbell's made Prego,

and Prego, in the early 80s, was struggling next to Ragù,

Campbell's je stvorio Prego, a Prego je u ranim 80-ima bio rame uz rame s Raguom,

which was the dominant spaghetti sauce of the 70s and 80s.

koji je bio prevladavajući umak za špagete u 70-im i 80-ima.

In the industry -- I don't know whether you care about this,

Sada u industriji - iako ne znam zanima li vas to

or how much time I have to go into this.

i koliko vremena imam za to, ali

tehnički govoreći,

But it was, technically speaking -- this is an aside --

Prego je bolji umak od rajčice nego Ragu.

Prego is a better tomato sauce than Ragù.

The quality of the tomato paste is much better;

Kvaliteta umaka od rajčice je puno bolja, a mješavina začina je znatno superiornija.

the spice mix is far superior;

it adheres to the pasta in a much more pleasing way.

Miješa se s tjesteninom na puno ugodniji način, zapravo

In fact, they would do the famous bowl test

u 70-ima su Ragu i Prego radili poznati test sa zdjelama.

back in the 70s with Ragù and Prego.

You'd have a plate of spaghetti, and you would pour it on, right?

Imate tanjur špageta i umak za njih, OK?

And the Ragù would all go to the bottom, and the Prego would sit on top.

Raguov umak bi se spustio na dno, a Prego bi ostao na vrhu.

That's called "adherence."

To se naziva "prianjanje".

And, anyway, despite the fact that they were far superior in adherence,

No, unatoč činjenici da su bili znatno superiorniji u prianjanju i kvaliteti

and the quality of their tomato paste,

umaka od rajčice, Prego je bio u nevolji.

Prego was struggling.

So they came to Howard, and they said, fix us.

Stoga su došli Howardu i rekli - popravi nas!

And Howard looked at their product line, and he said,

Howard je pogledao njihovu liniju proizvoda i rekao:

what you have is a dead tomato society.

"To što vi imate je društvo mrtvih rajčica.

So he said, this is what I want to do.

Evo što želim učiniti."

And he got together with the Campbell's soup kitchen,

U suradnji s kuhinjom Campbell's soup

and he made 45 varieties of spaghetti sauce.

napravio je 45 varijacija umaka za špagete.

And he varied them according to every conceivable way

Varijacije je radio na sve moguće načine koje možete zamisliti -

that you can vary tomato sauce:

by sweetness, by level of garlic,

po slatkoći, razini češnjaka, gorčini, kiselosti, "rajčicosti" i

by tomatoey-ness, by tartness, by sourness,

vidljivim krutinama - što je moj omiljeni izraz u poslovanju s umakom za špagete. (smijeh)

by visible solids --

my favorite term in the spaghetti sauce business.

(Laughter)

Every conceivable way you can vary spaghetti sauce,

On je zaista radio varijacije tog umaka na sve zamislive načine.

he varied spaghetti sauce.

And then he took this whole raft of 45 spaghetti sauces,

Potom je uzeo svih 45 vrsta umaka i krenuo na put.

and he went on the road.

He went to New York, to Chicago,

Obišao je New York, Chicago, Jacksonville,

he went to Jacksonville, to Los Angeles.

Los Angeles i doveo masu ljudi u velike dvorane,

And he brought in people by the truckload into big halls.

And he sat them down for two hours,

posjeo ih na dva sata i za to vrijeme

and over the course of that two hours, he gave them ten bowls.

im dao deset zdjela.

Ten small bowls of pasta,

Dakle, deset zdjelica tjestenine s različitim umakom u svakoj.

with a different spaghetti sauce on each one.

And after they ate each bowl, they had to rate, from 0 to 100,

Nakon što bi pojeli iz svake zdjelice, morali bi dati ocjenu između 0 i 100,

how good they thought the spaghetti sauce was.

ovisno o tome koliko im se pojedini umak svidio.

At the end of that process, after doing it for months and months,

Na kraju cijeloj procesa, nakon nekoliko mjeseci,

he had a mountain of data

dobio je brdo podataka koji govore

about how the American people feel about spaghetti sauce.

što Amerikanci misle o umaku za špagete

And then he analyzed the data.

i krenuo je s analizom tih podataka.

Did he look for the most popular variety of spaghetti sauce?

Je li tražio najpopularniju varijantu umaka? Ne,

No! Howard doesn't believe that there is such a thing.

Howard ne vjeruje u takve stvari.

Instead, he looked at the data, and he said,

Umjesto toga, pogledao je podatke i rekao:

let's see if we can group all these different data points into clusters.

"Pogledajmo možemo li ove različite rezultate grupirati u klastere.

Let's see if they congregate around certain ideas.

Možda se temelje na određenim idejama."

And sure enough, if you sit down,

Naravno, ako sjednete i krenete analizirati sve ove podatke o umaku za špagete,

and you analyze all this data on spaghetti sauce,

you realize that all Americans fall into one of three groups.

shvatit ćete da svi Amerikanci pripadaju jednoj od ove tri grupe:

There are people who like their spaghetti sauce plain;

Jedni vole jednostavni, obični umak,

there are people who like their spaghetti sauce spicy;

drugi vole začinjeni umak,

and there are people who like it extra chunky.

a treći vole ekstra velike komadiće.

And of those three facts, the third one was the most significant,

Od ove tri činjenice, posljednja je najznačajnija.

because at the time, in the early 1980s,

Kada biste ranih 80-ih

if you went to a supermarket,

otišli u supermarket,

you would not find extra-chunky spaghetti sauce.

ne biste našli umak s velikim komadićima za špagete.

And Prego turned to Howard, and they said,

Prego se obratio Howardu rekavši:

"You're telling me that one third of Americans

"Želite mi reći da jedna trećina Amerikanaca žudi za umak s komadićima za špagete

crave extra-chunky spaghetti sauce

and yet no one is servicing their needs?"

i da im nitko ne ispunjava tu potrebu?" "Da!", odgovorio je.

And he said "Yes!"

(Laughter)

And Prego then went back,

(smijeh) Prego je tada

and completely reformulated their spaghetti sauce,

potpuno preformulirao svoje umake

and came out with a line of extra chunky that immediately and completely

te predstavio liniju umaka s velikim komadićima koji su

took over the spaghetti sauce business in this country.

u trenutku u potpunosti preuzeli biznis s umacima za špagete u zemlji.

And over the next 10 years, they made 600 million dollars

Tijekom idućih 10 godina, zaradili su 600 milijuna dolara

off their line of extra-chunky sauces.

upravo s tim umacima.

Everyone else in the industry looked at what Howard had done, and they said,

Svi unutar industrije su vidjeli što je Howard učinio te su rekli:

"Oh my god! We've been thinking all wrong!"

"O, Bože! Sve smo krivo zamislili!"

And that's when you started to get seven different kinds of vinegar,

Tako je nastalo sedam različitih vrsta octa,

and 14 different kinds of mustard, and 71 different kinds of olive oil.

14 vrsta senfa, 71 vrsta maslinovog ulja

And then eventually even Ragù hired Howard,

te je i Ragu angažirao Howarda, koji je

and Howard did the exact same thing for Ragù that he did for Prego.

učinio potpuno istu stvar kao za Prego.

And today, if you go to a really good supermarket,

Kada biste danas otišli u neki vrlo dobar supermarket

i pogledali koliko Ragu umaka postoji,

do you know how many Ragùs there are?

36!

znate li koliko bi ih bilo? 36!

In six varieties:

U šest varijanti: Sir, Light, Robusto,

Cheese, Light,

Robusto, Rich & Hearty,

Rich & Hearty, Old World Traditional, Extra-Chunky Garden. (smijeh)

Old World Traditional --

Extra-Chunky Garden.

(Laughter)

That's Howard's doing.

To su Howardova djela i njegov dar Amerikancima.

That is Howard's gift to the American people.

Now why is that important?

Zašto je to važno?

(Laughter)

It is, in fact, enormously important.

To je, zapravo, strašno važno i objasnit ću vam zašto.

I'll explain to you why.

What Howard did is he fundamentally changed the way the food industry thinks

Howard je iz temelja promijenio način razmišljanja unutar prehrambene industrije

about making you happy.

vezana uz usrećivanje kupaca.

Assumption number one in the food industry used to be

Prva pretpostavka prehrambene industrije bila je

that the way to find out what people want to eat,

da, ukoliko želite saznati što ljudi žele jesti -

what will make people happy, is to ask them.

što će ih usrećiti - morate ih pitati.

And for years and years and years,

I dugi niz godina, Ragu i Prego su imali fokus grupe,

Ragù and Prego would have focus groups,

koje bi posjeli i rekli im:

and they would sit you down, and they would say,

"What do you want in a spaghetti sauce?

"Što želite u umaku za špagete? Recite nam, što?"

Tell us what you want in a spaghetti sauce."

And for all those years -- 20, 30 years --

I svih tih 20, 30 godina,

through all those focus group sessions,

tijekom svih sastanaka fokus grupa,

no one ever said they wanted extra-chunky.

nitko nije rekao "želim ekstra velike komadiće".

Even though at least a third of them, deep in their hearts, actually did.

Mada je, vjerojatno, barem trećina njih to željela.

(Laughter)

(smijeh)

People don't know what they want!

Ljudi ne znaju što žele, zar ne?

As Howard loves to say,

Ili, kako to Howard običava reći: "Um ne zna što jezik želi."

"The mind knows not what the tongue wants."

It's a mystery!

To je misterij!

(Laughter)

And a critically important step

Ključan korak u razumijevanju vlastitih želja i ukusa

in understanding our own desires and tastes

is to realize that we cannot always explain what we want, deep down.

je razumijevanje da ne možemo uvijek objasniti što zapravo želimo.

If I asked all of you, for example, in this room, what you want in a coffee,

Kada bih sve vas, u ovoj sobi, pitao kakvu kavu želite,

you know what you'd say?

znate što biste rekli? Svatko od vas bi rekao: "Želim tamnu, bogatu i dobro prženu."

Every one of you would say, "I want a dark, rich, hearty roast."

It's what people always say when you ask them.

Tako ljudi odgovaraju na pitanje o kavi.

"What do you like?" "Dark, rich, hearty roast!"

Kakvu volite? Tamnu, bogatu i dobro prženu.

What percentage of you actually like a dark, rich, hearty roast?

Koji postotak vas zapravo voli tamnu, bogatu i dobro prženu?

According to Howard, somewhere between 25 and 27 percent of you.

Prema Howardu, negdje između 25 i 27 posto.

Most of you like milky, weak coffee.

Većina vas voli mliječnu, slabiju kavu,

(Laughter)

But you will never, ever say to someone who asks you what you want

ali nikada nećete na to pitanje odgovoriti:

that "I want a milky, weak coffee."

"Želim mliječnu, slabu kavu." (smijeh)

So that's number one thing that Howard did.

To je prvo što je Howard učinio.

Number two thing that Howard did is he made us realize --

Druga stvar je da smo uz njega -

it's another very critical point --

to je druga kritična točka -

he made us realize the importance

osvijestili važnost nečega što on voli zvati "horizontalna segmentacija".

of what he likes to call "horizontal segmentation."

Why is this critical?

Zašto je ovo ključno?

Because this is the way the food industry thought before Howard.

Zato što se u prehrambenoj industriji tako razmišljalo prije Howarda.

What were they obsessed with in the early 80s?

Čime su bili opsjednuti u 80-ima? Senfom.

They were obsessed with mustard.

In particular, they were obsessed with the story of Grey Poupon.

Točnije, bili su opsjednuti pričom o Grey Pouponu.

Used to be, there were two mustards: French's and Gulden's.

Nekada su postojala dva senfa - French's i Gulden's.

What were they? Yellow mustard.

Oni su bili žuti senfovi. Što su sadržavali?

What's in it?

Yellow mustard seeds, turmeric, and paprika.

Sjemenke žutog senfa, indijski šafran i papriku.

That was mustard.

Grey Poupon came along, with a Dijon.

Grey Poupon je nastao s Dijonom.

Right?

Much more volatile brown mustard seed, some white wine, a nose hit,

Sadržavao je razne sjemenke smeđeg senfa, malo bijelog vina i

much more delicate aromatics.

i delikatnije arome. Što su učinili?

And what do they do?

They put it in a little tiny glass jar, with a wonderful enameled label on it,

Stavili su ga u minijaturnu staklenku, s briljantno sjajnom etiketom

made it look French,

kako bi izgledao francuski, iako je napravljen u Oxnardu, Kalifornija.

even though it's made in Oxnard, California.

(Laughter)

And instead of charging a dollar fifty for the eight-ounce bottle,

Umjesto da su tu malu bočicu od 20 grama naplatili 1,50 dolar,

the way that French's and Gulden's did,

poput Frencha i Guldena, oni su ju naplaćivali 4 dolara.

they decided to charge four dollars.

And they had those ads.

Onda su imali one reklame s tipom u Rolls Royceu koji

With the guy in the Rolls Royce, eating the Grey Poupon.

jede Grey Poupon. Potom se zaustavi još jedan Rolls Royce

Another pulls up, and says, "Do you have any Grey Poupon?"

čiji vozač pita: "Imate li Grey Poupon?"

And the whole thing, after they did that, Grey Poupon takes off!

Sve ostalo je povijest. Grey Poupon strelovitom brzinom

Takes over the mustard business!

preuzima biznis senfa.

And everyone's take-home lesson from that

Lekcija koju su nas naučili bila je da,

was that the way to make people happy

ako želite usrećiti ljude, morate im dati nešto skuplje,

is to give them something that is more expensive,

nešto čemu mogu težiti.

something to aspire to.

It's to make them turn their back on what they think they like now,

Morate ih natjerati da okrenu leđa onome što misle da vole sada

and reach out for something higher up the mustard hierarchy.

vole i posegnu za nečim višim u hijerarhiji senfa.

(Laughter)

A better mustard! A more expensive mustard!

Za boljim i skupljim senfom,

A mustard of more sophistication and culture and meaning.

onim sofisticiranijim i značajnijim.

And Howard looked to that and said, "That's wrong!"

Kada je Howard to vidio, rekao je: "To je pogrešno!"

Mustard does not exist on a hierarchy.

Ne postoji hijerarhija senfa,

Mustard exists, just like tomato sauce, on a horizontal plane.

nego, kao i s umakom od rajčice, samo horizontalna ravnina.

There is no good mustard or bad mustard.

Ne postoji dobar, loš,

There is no perfect mustard or imperfect mustard.

savršen ili nesavršen senf,

There are only different kinds of mustards that suit different kinds of people.

već različite vrste koje odgovaraju različitim ljudima.

He fundamentally democratized the way we think about taste.

Iz temelja je demokratizirao način razmišljanja o ukusima.

And for that, as well, we owe Howard Moskowitz a huge vote of thanks.

I za to dugujemo veliko hvala Howardu Moskowitzu.

Third thing that Howard did, and perhaps the most important,

Treća, i možda najvažnija, stvar koju je Howard učinio je

is Howard confronted the notion of the Platonic dish.

suprotstavljanje ideji platoničkog jela. (smijeh)

(Laughter)

What do I mean by that?

Što pod time mislim?

(Laughter)

For the longest time in the food industry,

Dugo vremena u prehrambenoj industriji,

there was a sense that there was one way,

vladalo je mišljenje da postoji samo jedan jedini, savršeni način pripremanja jela.

a perfect way, to make a dish.

You go to Chez Panisse,

Ako odete u Chez Panisse, dobit ćete red-tail sashimi

they give you the red-tail sashimi with roasted pumpkin seeds

sa prženim sjemenkama bundeve u nekom broju.

in a something something reduction.

They don't give you five options on the reduction.

Nemate pet vrsta izbora, OK?

They don't say, "Do you want the extra-chunky reduction, or ...?"

Ne pitaju vas želite li s velikim komadićima ili nekako drukčije.

No!

You just get the reduction. Why?

Dobijete to što dobijete jer šef kuhinje u Chez Panisseu

Because the chef at Chez Panisse

has a Platonic notion about red-tail sashimi.

ima platoničko shvaćanje red-tail sashimija.

"This is the way it ought to be."

To tako mora biti i

And she serves it that way time and time again,

tako se poslužuje već odavno i

and if you quarrel with her, she will say,

ako se pokušate pobuniti, reći će vam:

"You know what? You're wrong!

"Znate što, u krivu ste! Ovo je najbolji način pripreme u ovom restoranu."

This is the best way it ought to be in this restaurant."

Now that same idea fueled the commercial food industry as well.

Istu ideju imala je i komercijalna prehrambena industrija.

They had a Platonic notion of what tomato sauce was.

Imali su platoničko shvaćanje umaka od rajčice.

And where did that come from? It came from Italy.

To je poteklo iz Italije gdje je

Italian tomato sauce is what?

umak od rajčice mljeven i rijedak.

It's blended; it's thin.

The culture of tomato sauce was thin.

Takva je i kultura umaka od rajčice.

When we talked about "authentic tomato sauce" in the 1970s,

Kada smo govorili o izvornom umaku od rajčice iz 70-ih,

we talked about Italian tomato sauce,

govorili smo o talijanskom umaku, o prvim raguima

we talked about the earliest Ragùs,

which had no visible solids, right?

koji nisu imali vidljive krutine.

Which were thin, you just put a little bit

Bili su rijetki i kada biste ih prelili preko tjestenine,

and it sunk down to the bottom of the pasta.

potonuli bi na dno.

That's what it was.

Zašto smo se toliko vezali uz to?

And why were we attached to that?

Jer smo mislili da će ljude usrećiti

Because we thought that what it took to make people happy

was to provide them with the most culturally authentic tomato sauce, A.

kulturološki izvorni umak od rajčice, kao i

And B, we thought that if we gave them the culturally authentic tomato sauce,

činjenica da će ga prihvatiti upravo zato

then they would embrace it.

što je izvorni.

And that's what would please the maximum number of people.

Mislili smo da će upravo to zadovoljiti najveći broj ljudi.

In other words,

To smo mislili jer smo imali ideju da ljudi

people in the cooking world were looking for cooking universals.

u kulinarstvu traže kulinarske univerzalnosti,

They were looking for one way to treat all of us.

jedan način za sve.

And it's good reason for them to be obsessed

Opsjednutnost univerzalnošću je nastala tako što je

with the idea of universals,

because all of science,

kompletna znanost tijekom 19. i većeg dijela 20. stoljeća,

through the 19th century and much of the 20th,

was obsessed with universals.

bila opsjednuta time.

Psychologists, medical scientists, economists

Psiholozi, liječnici, ekonomisti...svi su željeli

were all interested in finding out the rules

that govern the way all of us behave.

saznati pravila koja pokreću naše ponašanje.

But that changed, right?

No, to se promijenilo.

What is the great revolution in science of the last 10, 15 years?

Što je najveća revolucija u znanosti u zadnjih 10-15 godina?

It is the movement from the search for universals

Promjena od potrage za univerzalnošću do razumijevanja raznolikosti.

to the understanding of variability.

Now in medical science, we don't want to know, necessarily,

U medicini ne želimo nužno znati kako rak funkcionira,

just how cancer works,

ali želimo znati kako se jedan razlikuje od drugoga.

we want to know how your cancer is different from my cancer.

I guess my cancer different from your cancer.

Pretpostavljam da bi moj rak bio drukčiji od vašega.

Genetics has opened the door to the study of human variability.

Genetika je započela studiju ljudske raznolikosti.

What Howard Moskowitz was doing was saying,

Howard Moskowitz je tvrdio da je jednaka revolucija

"This same revolution needs to happen in the world of tomato sauce."

nužna u svijetu umaku od rajčice.

And for that, we owe him a great vote of thanks.

Za to mu dugujemo zahvalnost.

I'll give you one last illustration of variability,

Dat ću vam još jedan primjer raznolikosti:

and that is -- oh, I'm sorry.

Howard not only believed that, but he took it a second step,

Howard nije samo vjerovao, već je napravio i sljedeći korak koji je pokazao da,

which was to say that when we pursue universal principles in food,

tražeći univerzalne principe u hrani, ne samo da griješimo,

we aren't just making an error;

već sami sebi radimo medvjeđu uslugu.

we are actually doing ourselves a massive disservice.

And the example he used was coffee.

Uzeo je kavu kao primjer, budući da je

And coffee is something he did a lot of work with, with Nescafé.

puno radio s njom kroz Nescafe.

If I were to ask all of you to try and come up with a brand of coffee --

Kada bih vas pitao da probate smisliti novu vrstu kave,

a type of coffee, a brew -- that made all of you happy,

mješavinu koja bi vas sve usrećila,

and then I asked you to rate that coffee,

a potom vas pitao da ocijenite tu kavu,

the average score in this room for coffee would be about 60 on a scale of 0 to 100.

na ljestvici od 0 do 100, prosječni rezultat u ovoj prostoriji bio bi oko 60.

If, however, you allowed me to break you into coffee clusters,

No, ako biste mi dopustili da vas podijelim u "klastere kave",

maybe three or four coffee clusters,

možda tri ili četiri,

and I could make coffee just for each of those individual clusters,

i napravim posebnu vrstu kave za svaki klaster,

your scores would go from 60 to 75 or 78.

rezultati bi se sa 60 popeli na 75 ili 78.

The difference between coffee at 60 and coffee at 78

Razlika između kave sa 60 i 78 bodova je

is a difference between coffee that makes you wince,

razlika između kave kojom ste zadovoljni

and coffee that makes you deliriously happy.

i kave koja vas baca u trans od sreće.

That is the final, and I think most beautiful lesson,

To je posljednja, a mislim i najljepša, lekcija Howarda Moskowitza.

of Howard Moskowitz:

that in embracing the diversity of human beings,

Prihvaćanjem raznolikosti ljudskih bića,

we will find a surer way to true happiness.

naći ćemo sigurniji put do istinske sreće.

Thank you.

(Applause)

Hvala vam.