Choice, happiness and spaghetti sauce | Malcolm Gladwell

Translator: eva dovč Reviewer: Miha Pelko

I think I was supposed to talk about my new book,

Mislim, da bi moral govoriti o svoji novi knjigi,

which is called "Blink,"

ki se imenuje "Preblisk" in govori o hipnih sodbah in prvih vtisih.

and it's about snap judgments and first impressions.

And it comes out in January, and I hope you all buy it in triplicate.

Knjiga bo izšla januarja in upam, da jo boste vsi kupili v treh izvodih.

(Laughter)

Ampak, premišljeval sem,

But I was thinking about this,

and I realized that although my new book makes me happy,

in ugotovil, da čeprav me nova knjiga osrečuje,

in mislim, da bo osrečila tudi mojo mamo,

and I think would make my mother happy,

it's not really about happiness.

knjiga pravzaprav ni o sreči.

So I decided instead, I would talk about someone

Zato sem se odločil, da bom raje govoril o nekom,

who I think has done as much to make Americans happy

ki je naredil zelo veliko zato, da bi osrečil Američane,

as perhaps anyone over the last 20 years,

morda več kot kdorkoli drug v zadnjih dvajsetih letih.

a man who is a great personal hero of mine:

Mož, ki je tudi moj osebni heroj.

someone by the name of Howard Moskowitz,

Človek po imenu Howard Moskowitz,

who is most famous for reinventing spaghetti sauce.

najbolj znan po tem, da je ponovno izumil omako za špagete.

Howard's about this high, and he's round,

Howard je velik približno toliko in okrogel,

and he's in his 60s, and he has big huge glasses

zdaj je v svojih šestedestih in nosi velika očala,

ima vedno redkejše sive lase in izžareva posebno živahnost ter vitalnost,

and thinning gray hair,

and he has a kind of wonderful exuberance and vitality,

and he has a parrot, and he loves the opera,

ima papigo in rad hodi v opero,

and he's a great aficionado of medieval history.

in je velik ljubitelj srednjeveške zgodovine.

And by profession, he's a psychophysicist.

Po poklicu je psihofizik.

Now, I should tell you that I have no idea what psychophysics is,

Naj vam povem, da se mi niti ne sanja, kaj pravzaprav je psihofizika,

although at some point in my life,

čeprav sem v nekem obdobju dve leti hodil z dekletom,

I dated a girl for two years

who was getting her doctorate in psychophysics.

ki je delala svoj doktorat na področju psihofizike.

Which should tell you something about that relationship.

To vam najbrž razloži marsikaj o najinemu odnosu. (smeh)

(Laughter)

As far as I know, psychophysics is about measuring things.

Kolikor jaz vem, se psihofizika ukvarja z merjenjem stvari.

And Howard is very interested in measuring things.

Howarda pa merjenje stvari nadvse zanima.

And he graduated with his doctorate from Harvard,

Doktoriral je na Harvardu,

in odprl svetovalnico v mestu White Plains v New Yorku.

and he set up a little consulting shop in White Plains, New York.

Ena izmed njegov prvih strank -- to je bilo dolgo nazaj, v 70ih

And one of his first clients was Pepsi.

This is many years ago, back in the early 70s.

-- ena izmed njegovih prvih strank je bilo podjetje Pepsi.

And Pepsi came to Howard and they said,

Pri Pepsiju so stopili do Howarda in mu rekli,

"You know, there's this new thing called aspartame,

"Veš, obstaja neka nova stvar, ki se imenuje aspartam,

and we would like to make Diet Pepsi.

in mi bi radi naredili Diet Pepsi.

We'd like you to figure out

Radi bi, da ugotoviš, kolikšna količina aspartama je potrebna

how much aspartame we should put in each can of Diet Pepsi

v vsaki pločevinki, da bomo imeli popolno pijačo." V redu?

in order to have the perfect drink."

Now that sounds like an incredibly straightforward question to answer,

No, to se sliši kot precej enostavno zastavljeno vprašanje,

and that's what Howard thought.

in to je mislil tudi Howard. Pri Pepsiju so mu povedali,

Because Pepsi told him,

"We're working with a band between eight and 12 percent.

"Glej, delamo na področju med 8% in 12%.

Anything below eight percent sweetness is not sweet enough;

Vse kar je pod 8%, ni dovolj sladko,

anything above 12 percent sweetness is too sweet.

vse kar je nad 12%, je presladko.

We want to know: what's the sweet spot between 8 and 12?"

Radi bi vedeli, kje je prava sladka točka med 8% in 12%?

Now, if I gave you this problem to do, you would all say, it's very simple.

No, če bi ta problem zastavil vam, bi vi rekli, da je to zelo preprosto.

What we do is you make up a big experimental batch of Pepsi,

Namreč, potrebno je le narediti veliko testno skupino pijač Pepsi,

at every degree of sweetness -- eight percent, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3,

za vsako stopnjo sladkosti - 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%,

all the way up to 12 --

vse do 12% - in to postavimo pred tisoče ljudi,

and we try this out with thousands of people,

and we plot the results on a curve,

rezultate razporedimo v obliki krivulje,

and we take the most popular concentration, right?

in izberemo najbolj priljubljeno koncentracijo. Ja? Zelo preprosto.

Really simple.

Howard does the experiment, and he gets the data back,

Howard naredi poskus, dobi rezulate, nariše rezulate na krivuljo,

and he plots it on a curve,

and all of a sudden he realizes it's not a nice bell curve.

in ugotovi, da to ni pravilna zvonasta krivulja.

In fact, the data doesn't make any sense.

Pravzaprav, rezultati so brez vsakršne logike.

It's a mess. It's all over the place.

Cela zmeda. Nobenega reda.

Now, most people in that business, in the world of testing food and such,

No, večina ljudi v tem poslu testiranja hrane in podobno,

are not dismayed when the data comes back a mess.

ni prav nič začudenih, če so rezultati tako nelogični.

They think, "Well, you know,

figuring out what people think about cola's not that easy."

Mislijo si, da, saj veste, ni lahko ugotoviti kaj si ljudje mislijo o koli.

"You know, maybe we made an error somewhere along the way."

Morda, smo med poskusom naredili kakšno napako.

"You know, let's just make an educated guess,"

Poskusimo raje z logičnim razmišljanjem,

and they simply point and they go for 10 percent,

in tako se odločijo za deset procentov, točno v sredini.

right in the middle.

Howard is not so easily placated.

Howard ni tako hitro pomirjen.

Howard is a man of a certain degree of intellectual standards.

Howard, navsezadnje, ima določene standarde.

And this was not good enough for him,

In to zanj ni bilo dovolj dobro,

and this question bedeviled him for years.

tako ga je ta problem obsedal še leta.

And he would think it through and say, "What was wrong?

Problem je temeljito premislil in si rekel, le kaj je šlo narobe?

Why could we not make sense of this experiment with Diet Pepsi?"

Zakaj je bil poskus z Diet Pepsijem tako nelogičen?

And one day, he was sitting in a diner in White Plains,

In nekega dne, ko je večerjal v White Plains,

about to go trying to dream up some work for Nescafé.

že je premišljeval, da bi delal za podjetje Nescafe.

And suddenly, like a bolt of lightning, the answer came to him.

Nenadoma, kot strela z jasnega, ga je prešinilo.

And that is, that when they analyzed the Diet Pepsi data,

Da, ko so analizirali rezulate s Pepsijeva poskusa,

they were asking the wrong question.

so odgovarjali na napačno vprašanje.

They were looking for the perfect Pepsi,

Iskali so en sam popoln Pepsi,

and they should have been looking for the perfect Pepsis.

namesto tega pa bi morali iskati popolne Pepsije. Verjemite.

Trust me.

This was an enormous revelation.

To je bilo veličastno odkritje.

This was one of the most brilliant breakthroughs in all of food science.

To je bilo eno najbolj briljantnih odkritij v vsej prehrambeni industriji.

Howard immediately went on the road,

In Howard se je nemudoma odpravil na cesto,

and he would go to conferences around the country,

šel je na konference po vsej državi,

and he would stand up and say,

vstaljal je in govoril,

"You had been looking for the perfect Pepsi.

"Iskali ste popoln Pepsi. Motite se.

You're wrong.

You should be looking for the perfect Pepsis."

Iskati bi morali popolne Pepsije."

And people would look at him blankly and say,

In ljudje so ga začudeno gledali, in govorili,

"What are you talking about? Craziness."

"O čem vendar govoriš? To je neumnost."

And they would say, "Move! Next!"

In rekli bi, saj veste, "Umakni se! Naslednji!"

Tried to get business, nobody would hire him --

Iskal je zaposlitev, nihče ga ni hotel najeti - bil je obseden,

he was obsessed, though,

and he talked about it and talked about it.

in kar naprej in naprej in naprej je govoril o tem.

Howard loves the Yiddish expression

Howardu je zelo všeč rek v jidišu,

"To a worm in horseradish, the world is horseradish."

"za črva v hrenu, pomeni hren ves svet."

This was his horseradish.

To je bil njegov hren. (smeh) Obseden je bil z njim!

(Laughter)

He was obsessed with it!

And finally, he had a breakthrough.

In končno je bil njegov trud poplačan. Poklicali so ga iz podjetja Vlasic Pickles,

Vlasic Pickles came to him,

and they said, "Doctor Moskowitz, we want to make the perfect pickle."

in rekli, "G. Moskowitz -- Doktor Moskowitz --

radi bi ustvarili popolne kisle kumarice." In rekel je,

And he said,

"There is no perfect pickle; there are only perfect pickles."

"Popolne kisle kumarice niso samo ene, ampak jih je več vrst."

And he came back to them and he said,

Prišel je z rezultati in jim rekel, "Ne samo, da morate izboljšati standarno serijo,

"You don't just need to improve your regular;

you need to create zesty."

usvariti morate novo serijo pikantnih.

And that's where we got zesty pickles.

In tako so na svet prišle pikantne kisle kumarice.

Then the next person came to him: Campbell's Soup.

Naslednji so do njega stopili iz podjetja Campbell's Soup.

And this was even more important.

To je bilo še pomembnejše. V bistvu,

In fact, Campbell's Soup is where Howard made his reputation.

pri Campbell's Soup si je Howard ustvaril svoj sloves.

Campbell's made Prego,

and Prego, in the early 80s, was struggling next to Ragù,

Campbell's je delal Prego in Prego je v začetku 80ih tekmoval z Ragujem,

which was the dominant spaghetti sauce of the 70s and 80s.

Ragu je bil v 70ih in 80ih najbolj priljubljena omaka za špagete.

In the industry -- I don't know whether you care about this,

V industirji - ne vem, če vas to sploh zanima,

or how much time I have to go into this.

niti ne vem koliko časa imam, da vam to povem.

Ampak, v bistvu -- to samo mimogrede --

But it was, technically speaking -- this is an aside --

Prego je imel boljšo paradižnikovo omako kot Ragu.

Prego is a better tomato sauce than Ragù.

The quality of the tomato paste is much better;

Kvaliteta paradižnikove mezge je bila boljša, mešanica začimb okusnejša,

the spice mix is far superior;

it adheres to the pasta in a much more pleasing way.

s testeninami se je lepše sprijela.Takrat,

In fact, they would do the famous bowl test

so v 70ih in 80ih v podjetjih Ragu in Prego izvedli slavni test skled.

back in the 70s with Ragù and Prego.

You'd have a plate of spaghetti, and you would pour it on, right?

Imaš krožnik špagetov in ga preliješ z omako, ja?

And the Ragù would all go to the bottom, and the Prego would sit on top.

Ragu izgine na dno krožnika, Prego pa ostane na vrhu.

That's called "adherence."

Temu se reče "sprijetje."

And, anyway, despite the fact that they were far superior in adherence,

No, in čeprav so bili mnogo boljši kar se tiče sprijetja,

and the quality of their tomato paste,

imeli so boljšo paradižnikovo mezgo, vseeno pa se je Prego komaj preživljal.

Prego was struggling.

So they came to Howard, and they said, fix us.

Tako so stopili do Howarda in mu rekli, popravi nas.

And Howard looked at their product line, and he said,

In Howard je pogledal serijo nijihovih izdelkov, in rekel,

what you have is a dead tomato society.

to kar imate je društvo mrtvih paradižnikov.

So he said, this is what I want to do.

Rekel je, tole bi rad naredil.

And he got together with the Campbell's soup kitchen,

In v sodelovanju z ekipo iz podjetja Campbell's soup,

and he made 45 varieties of spaghetti sauce.

je naredil 45 različnih omak za špagete. Kombiniral je

And he varied them according to every conceivable way

vse možne kombinacije paradižnikovih omak.

that you can vary tomato sauce:

by sweetness, by level of garlic,

Po sladkosti, po količini česna, po ostrosti, kislosti, po "paradižnikavosti",

by tomatoey-ness, by tartness, by sourness,

po vidnih koščkih - moja najljubši izraz na področju omak za špagete. (smeh)

by visible solids --

my favorite term in the spaghetti sauce business.

(Laughter)

Every conceivable way you can vary spaghetti sauce,

Omake za špagete je variiral na vse možne načine.

he varied spaghetti sauce.

And then he took this whole raft of 45 spaghetti sauces,

In vzel je množico teh 45 omak in šel na pot.

and he went on the road.

He went to New York, to Chicago,

Šel je v New York, šel je v Chicago, šel je v Jacksonville,

he went to Jacksonville, to Los Angeles.

šel je v Los Angeles. In povsod je povabil množico ljudi. V velike hale.

And he brought in people by the truckload into big halls.

And he sat them down for two hours,

Posedel jih je za dve uri, in jim dal,

and over the course of that two hours, he gave them ten bowls.

v roku dveh ur, deset krožnikov.

Ten small bowls of pasta,

Deset majhnih krožnikov testenin, vsak krožnik z drugo omako.

with a different spaghetti sauce on each one.

And after they ate each bowl, they had to rate, from 0 to 100,

Vsakič, ko so testenine pojedli, so jih testiranci ocenili, od 0 do 100,

how good they thought the spaghetti sauce was.

ocenili so kako všeč jim je bila omaka.

At the end of that process, after doing it for months and months,

Na koncu tega postopka, potem, ko je to delal že mesece in mesece,

he had a mountain of data

je imel ogromno bazo podatkov

about how the American people feel about spaghetti sauce.

o tem kaj Američani menijo glede omak za špagete.

And then he analyzed the data.

Nato je podatke analiziral.

Did he look for the most popular variety of spaghetti sauce?

je iskal samo eno popolno omako izmed vseh? Ne!

No! Howard doesn't believe that there is such a thing.

Howard ne verjame, da taka stvar sploh obstaja.

Instead, he looked at the data, and he said,

Namesto tega je gledal rezulate, in rekel,

let's see if we can group all these different data points into clusters.

poglejmo ali lahko te podatke razdelimo v skupine.

Let's see if they congregate around certain ideas.

Poglejmo ali se zbirajo okrog določene ideje.

And sure enough, if you sit down,

In res, če si se usedel in analiziral vse podatke o omakah,

and you analyze all this data on spaghetti sauce,

you realize that all Americans fall into one of three groups.

si ugotovil, da vsi Američani padejo v eno izmed treh skupin.

There are people who like their spaghetti sauce plain;

So ljudje, ki imajo radi, da je njihova omaka preprosta,

there are people who like their spaghetti sauce spicy;

nekateri ljudje imajo radi svojo omako bolj začinjeno,

and there are people who like it extra chunky.

in so ljudje, ki imajo radi omako z ekstra velikimi koščki.

And of those three facts, the third one was the most significant,

Izmed vseh treh, je bila tretja ugotovitev najpomembnejša.

because at the time, in the early 1980s,

Namreč, v tistem času, v začetku 80ih,

if you went to a supermarket,

Če si šel v supermarket,

you would not find extra-chunky spaghetti sauce.

nisi našel omake za špagete z ekstra velikimi koščki.

And Prego turned to Howard, and they said,

In Prego se je obrnil k Howardu in rekel,

"You're telling me that one third of Americans

"Praviš, da tretjina Američanov hrepeni po omaki z ekstra velikimi koščki,

crave extra-chunky spaghetti sauce

and yet no one is servicing their needs?"

pa vendar ni nikogar, ki bi jim to dal?" In rekel je ja!

And he said "Yes!"

(Laughter)

And Prego then went back,

(smeh) Prego se je odločil,

and completely reformulated their spaghetti sauce,

in čisto spremenil formulo za njihovo omako,

and came out with a line of extra chunky that immediately and completely

izdelali so serijo z ekstra velikimi koščki, ki je takoj in popolno

took over the spaghetti sauce business in this country.

spremenila način mišljenja v poslu omak za špagete.

And over the next 10 years, they made 600 million dollars

V naslednjih 10 letih so zaslužili 600 miljonov dolarjev,

off their line of extra-chunky sauces.

samo s serijo omak z ekstra koščki.

Everyone else in the industry looked at what Howard had done, and they said,

Vsi drugi v industirji so videli kaj je naredil Howard, in rekli,

"Oh my god! We've been thinking all wrong!"

"Oh moj bog! Čisto narobe smo razmišljali!"

And that's when you started to get seven different kinds of vinegar,

In tako smo dobili 7 različnih vrst kisa,

and 14 different kinds of mustard, and 71 different kinds of olive oil.

14 različih vrst gorčic, 71 vrst različnih olivnih olj --

And then eventually even Ragù hired Howard,

sčasoma je celo Ragu najel Howarda,

and Howard did the exact same thing for Ragù that he did for Prego.

in Howard je pri Raguju naredil enako kot pri Pregotu.

And today, if you go to a really good supermarket,

Zato danes, ko greste v supermarker, v boljši supermarket,

in vidite koliko različnih omak Ragu obstaja --

do you know how many Ragùs there are?

36!

Ali veste koliko jih je? 36!

In six varieties:

V šestih različicah: s sirom, lahka, krepka,

Cheese, Light,

Robusto, Rich & Hearty,

bogata&zdrava, stara tradicionalna, vrtna z ekstra velikimi koščki. (smeh)

Old World Traditional --

Extra-Chunky Garden.

(Laughter)

That's Howard's doing.

To je po Howardovi zaslugi. To je Howardovo darilo Američanom.

That is Howard's gift to the American people.

Now why is that important?

In zakaj je to pomembno?

(Laughter)

It is, in fact, enormously important.

To je, pravzaprav, zelo pomembno. Razložil bom zakaj.

I'll explain to you why.

What Howard did is he fundamentally changed the way the food industry thinks

Na ta način je Howard korenito spremenil mišljenje prehrambene industrije

about making you happy.

o tem kako osrečiti ljudi.

Assumption number one in the food industry used to be

Prva predpostavka v prehrambeni industriji je nekoč bila,

that the way to find out what people want to eat,

da je način kako ugotoviti kaj ljudje radi jedo --

what will make people happy, is to ask them.

to kar vas osreči -- da jih vprašaš.

And for years and years and years,

In leto, za letom, za letom so v podjejih Ragu in Prego

Ragù and Prego would have focus groups,

delali teste s skupinami, posedli bi vas in vas vprašali,

and they would sit you down, and they would say,

"What do you want in a spaghetti sauce?

"Kaj hočeš imeti v omaki za špagete? Povej nam, kaj hočeš."

Tell us what you want in a spaghetti sauce."

And for all those years -- 20, 30 years --

In po vseh teh letih -- 20, 30 letih --

through all those focus group sessions,

pri vseh testnih skupinah,

no one ever said they wanted extra-chunky.

nihče ni rekel, da bi imel omako z ekstra velikimi koščki.

Even though at least a third of them, deep in their hearts, actually did.

Čeprav je vsaj tretjina ljudi, globoko v srcu, to želela.

(Laughter)

(smeh)

People don't know what they want!

Ljudje ne vedo, kaj bi pravzaprav radi! Kajne?

As Howard loves to say,

Kot Howard rad pravi, "Glava ne ve, česa si jezik želi."

"The mind knows not what the tongue wants."

It's a mystery!

To je skrivnost!

(Laughter)

And a critically important step

In kritičen korak pri razumevanju naših želja

in understanding our own desires and tastes

is to realize that we cannot always explain what we want, deep down.

in okusov je, da dojamemo da ne moremo vedno razumeti kaj hočemo.

If I asked all of you, for example, in this room, what you want in a coffee,

Če bi vas vse v dvorani naprimer vprašal, kakšno kavo si želite,

you know what you'd say?

ali veste kaj bi mi odgovorili? Vsi bi rekli "rad bi temno, bogato, krepko mešanico."

Every one of you would say, "I want a dark, rich, hearty roast."

It's what people always say when you ask them.

To vedno rečejo ljudje, ko jih vprašaš kakšno kavo imajo radi.

"What do you like?" "Dark, rich, hearty roast!"

Kaj bi rad? Temno, bogato, krepko mešanico!

What percentage of you actually like a dark, rich, hearty roast?

Koliko od vas pravzaprav rado pije temno, bogato, krepko mešanico?

According to Howard, somewhere between 25 and 27 percent of you.

Po Howardovem mnenju nekje med 25% in 27%.

Most of you like milky, weak coffee.

Večina od vas ima rado mlečno, nemočno kavo.

(Laughter)

But you will never, ever say to someone who asks you what you want

Ampak tega ne boste nikoli povedali nekomu, ki vas sprašuje kaj hočete --

that "I want a milky, weak coffee."

ne boste rekli, da hočete "mlečno, nemočno kavo." (smeh)

So that's number one thing that Howard did.

To je prva stvar, ki je uspela Howardu.

Number two thing that Howard did is he made us realize --

Druga stvar, ki jo je naredil Howard, je da nam je pomagal spoznati --

it's another very critical point --

to je zopet zelo pomemben korak --

he made us realize the importance

pomagal nam je dojeti pomembnost t.i. vodoravne razčlenjenosti.

of what he likes to call "horizontal segmentation."

Why is this critical?

Zakaj je to pomembno? Pomembno je zato,

Because this is the way the food industry thought before Howard.

ker je tako razmišljala prehrambena industrija pred Howardom. Ja?

What were they obsessed with in the early 80s?

S čim so bili obsedni v zgodnjih 80ih? Obsedeni so bili z gorčico.

They were obsessed with mustard.

In particular, they were obsessed with the story of Grey Poupon.

Natančneje, obsedeni so bili z zgodbo v zvezi z Grey Poupon. Ja?

Used to be, there were two mustards: French's and Gulden's.

Včasih, sta bili na voljo samo dve gorčici. French's in Gulden's.

What were they? Yellow mustard.

Kaj sta bili? Rumeni gorčici. Kaj je v rumeni gorčici?

What's in it?

Yellow mustard seeds, turmeric, and paprika.

Rumena gorčična semena, kurkuma in paprika. To je bila gorčica.

That was mustard.

Grey Poupon came along, with a Dijon.

Pojavil pa se je Grey Poupon s svojo Dijonsko gorčico. Ja?

Right?

Much more volatile brown mustard seed, some white wine, a nose hit,

Bolj dišeča rjava gorčična semena, nekaj belega vina, prijetne vonjave,

much more delicate aromatics.

mnogo bolj okusne dišave. In kaj naredijo?

And what do they do?

They put it in a little tiny glass jar, with a wonderful enameled label on it,

Pakirajo jo v majhne steklene kozarce, z lepo zloščeno nalepko,

made it look French,

naredijo jo francosko, čeprav je izdelana v Oxnardu, v Kaliforniji.

even though it's made in Oxnard, California.

(Laughter)

And instead of charging a dollar fifty for the eight-ounce bottle,

In namesto, da bi za 8-unčni kozarec računali dolar in pol,

the way that French's and Gulden's did,

tako kot so to storili pri French's in Gulden's, so računali štiri dolarje.

they decided to charge four dollars.

And they had those ads.

In potem so imeli tiste oglase, ne? Z moškim v Rolls Royceu,

With the guy in the Rolls Royce, eating the Grey Poupon.

moški je Grey Poupon in ob njem se ustavi drugi Rolls Royce,

Another pulls up, and says, "Do you have any Grey Poupon?"

in reče, ali imaš še kakšnega Grey Poupon-a?

And the whole thing, after they did that, Grey Poupon takes off!

In po vsem tem je Grey Poupon enostavno poletel!

Takes over the mustard business!

Prevzel je celo industrijo z gorčico.

And everyone's take-home lesson from that

In to kar so se vsi naučili ob tem je,

was that the way to make people happy

da je način kako osrečiti ljudi,

is to give them something that is more expensive,

ta, da jim ponudiš nekaj dražjega, nekaj po čemur hrepenijo. Kajne?

something to aspire to.

It's to make them turn their back on what they think they like now,

Da jih prepričaš, da obrnejo hrbet temu kar mislijo, da imajo radi,

and reach out for something higher up the mustard hierarchy.

in da sežejo po nečem višje na gorčični hierarhiji.

(Laughter)

A better mustard! A more expensive mustard!

Po boljši gorčici! Dražji gorčici!

A mustard of more sophistication and culture and meaning.

Po bolj uglajen gorčici z več kulture in vsebine.

And Howard looked to that and said, "That's wrong!"

In, ko je Howard to videl, si je rekel, to je narobe!

Mustard does not exist on a hierarchy.

Gorčica nima svoje hierarhije.

Mustard exists, just like tomato sauce, on a horizontal plane.

Gorčica, tako kot paradižnikova omaka, obstaja na vodoravni ravnini.

There is no good mustard or bad mustard.

Ni dobre in ni slabe gorčice.

There is no perfect mustard or imperfect mustard.

Ni popolne in nepopolne gorčice.

There are only different kinds of mustards that suit different kinds of people.

So samo različne vrste gorčic, ki ustrezajo raličnim vrstam ljudem.

He fundamentally democratized the way we think about taste.

Tako je korenito demokratiziral način kako razmišljamo o okusu.

And for that, as well, we owe Howard Moskowitz a huge vote of thanks.

In tudi za to, si Howard Moskowitz zasluži našo zahvalo.

Third thing that Howard did, and perhaps the most important,

Tretja stvar, ki jo je naredil Howard, in morda tudi najpomembnejša, je,

is Howard confronted the notion of the Platonic dish.

da se je Howard spoprijel s pojmom platonične jedi. (smeh)

(Laughter)

What do I mean by that?

Kaj mislim s tem?

(Laughter)

For the longest time in the food industry,

Zelo dolgo časa je v prehrambeni industriji prevladovalo mnenje,

there was a sense that there was one way,

da obstaja samo en popoln način priprave jedi.

a perfect way, to make a dish.

You go to Chez Panisse,

Pri Chez Panisse vam bodo postregli z rdečerepim sashimijem,

they give you the red-tail sashimi with roasted pumpkin seeds

s praženimi bučnimi semeni, in z nekakšnim zgoščanjem.

in a something something reduction.

They don't give you five options on the reduction.

Za način zgoščanja vam nikoli ne ponudijo pet izbir, kajne?™

They don't say, "Do you want the extra-chunky reduction, or ...?"

Nikoli ne rečejo, ali hočete zgoščanje z ekstra velikmi koščki, ali hočete -- ne!

No!

You just get the reduction. Why?

Preprosto dobite zgoščanje. Zakaj? Zato, ker ima glavni kuhar pri Chez Panisse

Because the chef at Chez Panisse

has a Platonic notion about red-tail sashimi.

platonično pojmovanje o rdečerepemu sashimiju.

"This is the way it ought to be."

Tako pač mora biti.

And she serves it that way time and time again,

In tako ga postreže znova in znova,

and if you quarrel with her, she will say,

in če se boste kregali z njim, vam bo rekel,

"You know what? You're wrong!

"Veste kaj? Motite se! To je najboljši način priprave za to restavracijo."

This is the best way it ought to be in this restaurant."

Now that same idea fueled the commercial food industry as well.

Isto mišljenje je prevladovalo tudi v prehrambeni industirji.

They had a Platonic notion of what tomato sauce was.

Imeli so idejo, platonično idejo, o tem kako naj bi izgledala paradižnikova omaka.

And where did that come from? It came from Italy.

In iz kje izvira ta ideja? Izvira iz Italije.

Italian tomato sauce is what?

Kakšna je italijanska paradižnikova omaka? Zmešana je in redka.

It's blended; it's thin.

The culture of tomato sauce was thin.

Praviloma bi morala biti paradižnikova omaka redka.

When we talked about "authentic tomato sauce" in the 1970s,

Ko smo v 70ih govorili o avtentični paradižnikovi omaki,

we talked about Italian tomato sauce,

smo govorili o italijanski omaki. Govorli smo o najzgodnjejših ragujih,

we talked about the earliest Ragùs,

which had no visible solids, right?

ki pa nimajo vidnejših koščkov? Kajne?

Which were thin, you just put a little bit

Omaka je bila redka, in samo nekaj si jo prelil čez,

and it sunk down to the bottom of the pasta.

in izgnilia je pod testenine nad dno krožnika.

That's what it was.

Tako je takrat bilo. In zakaj je bilo to za nas pomembno?

And why were we attached to that?

Zato, ker smo mislili, da je pravi način kako osrečiti ljudi,

Because we thought that what it took to make people happy

was to provide them with the most culturally authentic tomato sauce, A.

ta, da jim postrežemo z najbolj avtentično paradižnikovo omako, to je prvo,

And B, we thought that if we gave them the culturally authentic tomato sauce,

in drugo mislili smo, da če jim postrežemo z najbolj avtentično paradižnikovo omako,

then they would embrace it.

jo bodo ljudje z veseljem sprejeli.

And that's what would please the maximum number of people.

In to naj bi osrečilo maksimalno število ljudi.

In other words,

In razlog zakaj smo tako mislili -- z drugimi besedami,

people in the cooking world were looking for cooking universals.

ljudje v kuharskem svetu so iskali principe kuhanja.

They were looking for one way to treat all of us.

Iskali so en način s katerim bi zadovoljili vse.

And it's good reason for them to be obsessed

In dobro je, da so bili obsedeni s temi univerzalnimi idejami,

with the idea of universals,

because all of science,

zato, ker je bila vsa znanost 19. in večji del 20. stoletja,

through the 19th century and much of the 20th,

was obsessed with universals.

obsedena z univerzalnimi pravili.

Psychologists, medical scientists, economists

Psihologi, zdravniki, ekonomisti, vsi so se zanimali

were all interested in finding out the rules

that govern the way all of us behave.

za pravila, ki diktirajo kako se obnašamo.

But that changed, right?

Ampak to se je spremenilo, kajne?

What is the great revolution in science of the last 10, 15 years?

Kaj je bila v zadnjih 10, 15 letih revolucija v znanosti?

It is the movement from the search for universals

To je premik od iskanja univerzalnih principov k razumevanju različnosti.

to the understanding of variability.

Now in medical science, we don't want to know, necessarily,

No, v medicinski znanosti, pravzaprav ni potrebe, da bi vedeli --

just how cancer works,

kako pravzaprav rak deluje, hočemo vedeti kako se vaš rak razlikuje od ostalih.

we want to know how your cancer is different from my cancer.

I guess my cancer different from your cancer.

Najbrž se moj rak razlikuje od vašega.

Genetics has opened the door to the study of human variability.

Genetika je odprla vrata v študijo človeške raznolikosti.

What Howard Moskowitz was doing was saying,

To kar je hotel Howard Moskowitz je, da se ista revolucija

"This same revolution needs to happen in the world of tomato sauce."

zgodi tudi v svetu paradižnikovih omak.

And for that, we owe him a great vote of thanks.

In za to, smo se mu dolžni zahvaliti.

I'll give you one last illustration of variability,

Povedal vam bom še zadnji primer različnosti, in to je - ojej, se opravičujem.

and that is -- oh, I'm sorry.

Howard not only believed that, but he took it a second step,

Howard, ne samo, da je v to idejo verjel, ampak jo je tudi nadgradil,

which was to say that when we pursue universal principles in food,

in to je, da vedno kadar iščemo univerzalne principe v hrani,

we aren't just making an error;

ne samo, da delamo napako, ampak škodujemo tudi samim sebi.

we are actually doing ourselves a massive disservice.

And the example he used was coffee.

In primer, ki ga je uporabil on, je bila kava.

And coffee is something he did a lot of work with, with Nescafé.

In s kavo se je ukvarjal veliko, pri Nescafeju.

If I were to ask all of you to try and come up with a brand of coffee --

Če bi vas vse prosil, da poskusite usvariti novo kavno mešanico,

a type of coffee, a brew -- that made all of you happy,

-- vrsto kave, mešanico - ki bi osrečila vse vas,

and then I asked you to rate that coffee,

in vas nato prosil, da kavo ocenite,

the average score in this room for coffee would be about 60 on a scale of 0 to 100.

bi bila povprečna ocena na lestvici od 0 do 100 okoli 60.

If, however, you allowed me to break you into coffee clusters,

Če, po drugi strani, dovolite meni, da vas prej razdelim v kavne skupine,

maybe three or four coffee clusters,

mogoče tri ali štiri,

and I could make coffee just for each of those individual clusters,

in bi lahko naredili različno mešanico za vsako skupino posebej,

your scores would go from 60 to 75 or 78.

bi se vaše ocene iz 60 dvignile na nekje med 75 in 78.

The difference between coffee at 60 and coffee at 78

Razlika med kavo pri 60 in kavo pri 78,

is a difference between coffee that makes you wince,

je razlika med kavo zaradi katere trzneš,

and coffee that makes you deliriously happy.

in kavo, ki te naredi neznansko srečnega.

That is the final, and I think most beautiful lesson,

To je zadnja, in mislim, da tudi najlepša lekcija Howarda Moskowitza.

of Howard Moskowitz:

that in embracing the diversity of human beings,

Da šele, ko bomo sprejeli različnost ljudi,

we will find a surer way to true happiness.

bomo našli pravo pot do resnične sreče.

Thank you.

(Applause)

Hvala.