Nathan Myhrvold: Cut your food in half

203,756 views ・ 2011-07-05

TED


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翻译人员: Qian Yue 校对人员: Jenny Yang
00:15
So I'm going to tell you a little bit
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我将告诉大家一些东西
00:17
about reimagining food.
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关于重新看待食物
00:19
I've been interested in food for a long time.
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我对食物感兴趣已经有很长一段时间了
00:21
I taught myself to cook
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我通过一堆这类书
00:23
with a bunch of big books like this.
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自学如何烹饪
00:25
I went to chef school in France.
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我去法国烹饪学校进修
00:28
And there is a way
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这个世界对食物的设想,
00:30
the world both envisions food,
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以及对食物的描写、学习,
00:32
the way the world writes about food and learns about food.
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都有一些既定的概念
00:35
And it's largely what you would find in these books.
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这些通常你都能在这些书里面找到
00:38
And it's a wonderful thing.
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这也是很奇妙的事情
00:40
But there's some things that have been going on
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但是自从食物这个概念被定义之后
00:42
since this idea of food was established.
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有些事情就有了了变化
00:45
In the last 20 years,
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过去20年里
00:47
people have realized that science
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人们意识到科学
00:49
has a tremendous amount to do with food.
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对食物有着巨大的影响
00:51
In fact, understanding why cooking works
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实际上,要了解为什么烹饪会有用,
00:54
requires knowing the science of cooking --
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需要了解烹饪的科学--
00:56
some of the chemistry, some of the physics and so forth.
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有关化学,有关物理等等
00:59
But that's not in any of those books.
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但是这些没有写进任何一本书里
01:01
There's also a tremendous number of techniques
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另外还有很多由厨师
01:03
that chefs have developed,
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发明出的技巧
01:05
some about new aesthetics, new approaches to food.
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有一些是新美学的,有一些新的烹饪方式
01:08
There's a chef in Spain named Ferran Adria.
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在西班牙有名厨师名叫费伦·阿德里亚
01:11
He's developed a very avant-garde cuisine.
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他发明了一种很先锋派的烹饪方式
01:13
A guy in England called Heston Blumenthal,
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英国一个叫Heston Blumenthal的人
01:16
he's developed his avant-garde cuisine.
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发明了他自己的先锋派烹饪方式
01:18
None of the techniques that these people have developed
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这些人发明的技术
01:20
over the course of the last 20 years
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没有一个记录在过去20年中
01:22
is in any of those books.
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任何一本书中
01:24
None of them are taught in cooking schools.
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他们没有谁是在过烹饪学校进修过
01:26
In order to learn them, you have to go work in those restaurants.
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为了学会烹饪 那就得去那些餐厅工作实习
01:29
And finally,
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最终
01:31
there's the old way of viewing food
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守旧的审视食物的模式
01:33
is the old way.
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产生出守旧的烹饪方式
01:35
And so a few years ago -- fours years ago, actually --
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几年之前--实际是四年前--
01:38
I set out to say, is there a way
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我试问是否有种方法
01:40
we can communicate science and technique and wonder?
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来让我们将科学、技巧以及奇观联系在一起?
01:44
Is there a way we can show people food
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我们是否能以一种从未有过的角度
01:46
in a way they have not seen it before?
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把食物展现给大家呢?
01:48
So we tried, and I'll show you what we came up with.
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于是我们开始尝试,接下来我想展示给大家我们的结果
01:51
This is a picture called a cutaway.
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这是一张横切面图
01:54
This is actually the first picture I took in the book.
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实际这是我书里第一张照片
01:56
The idea here is to explain what happens
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这里的意思是为了当你蒸西兰花时
01:58
when you steam broccoli.
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会发什么什么
02:00
And this magic view allows you to see
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这神奇的角度让你看清
02:02
all of what's happening
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蒸西兰花时
02:04
while the broccoli steams.
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发生的一切
02:06
Then each of the different little pieces around it
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周围的每个小插图
02:08
explain some fact.
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都解释了一些事实
02:10
And the hope was two-fold.
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有两层目的
02:12
One is you can actually explain what happens when you steam broccoli.
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一个是,你可以解释当你蒸西兰花时发生了什么
02:14
But the other thing is that maybe we could seduce people
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另一个是,我们希望能引诱人们
02:17
into stuff that was a little more technical,
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去多了解一些技巧层面的东西
02:19
maybe a little bit more scientific, maybe a little bit more chef-y
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可能多一点科学性,可能多一点专业性
02:22
than they otherwise would have.
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比他们原本能得到的多
02:24
Because with that beautiful photo,
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因为这些美丽的画面旁
02:26
maybe I can also package this little box here
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我可能会附上这种小版块
02:28
that talks about how steaming and boiling
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讲述蒸制和沸煮
02:30
actually take different amounts of time.
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为何所需时长不同
02:32
Steaming ought to be faster.
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蒸制似乎应该会更快
02:34
It turns out it isn't because of something called film condensation,
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而事实并非如此,因为某些叫做膜状冷凝的现象
02:37
and this explains that.
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导致蒸制所需时间更长
02:39
Well, that first cutaway picture worked,
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第一张剖面图初见成效
02:42
so we said, "Okay, let's do some more."
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于是我们说到 "好的,我们再做多一点吧。"
02:45
So here's another one.
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这是另外一个案例
02:47
We discovered why woks are the shape they are.
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我们发现为什么锅子是这个形状的
02:50
This shaped wok doesn't work very well;
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这种形状的锅子并不是很好用
02:52
this caught fire three times.
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它惹了三次火灾
02:54
But we had a philosophy,
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但我们有自己的信念
02:56
which is it only has to look good for a thousandth of a second.
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它只要一千分之一秒地时间是好的就行啦
02:59
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
03:01
And one of our canning cutaways.
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这是我们其中一个罐头剖面图
03:03
Once you start cutting things in half, you kind of get carried away,
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一旦你开始把事物对半开,你就会有点激动得忘形
03:06
so you see we cut the jars in half as well as the pan.
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所以你看到我们把罐头还有平底锅切成两半
03:09
And each of these text blocks
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这些文字
03:11
explains a key thing that's going on.
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每段都解释了所发生的关键
03:13
In this case, boiling water canning
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这个例子中,沸水中的罐头
03:16
is for canning things that are already pretty acidic.
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是用来贮存酸性食物的
03:18
You don't have to heat them up as hot
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不需要煮太热
03:20
as you would something you do pressure canning
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不能像处理加压罐头一样
03:23
because bacterial spores can't grow in the acid.
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因为细菌孢子本来在酸性环境中就不能生长
03:27
So this is great for pickled vegetables,
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这对腌制蔬菜来说是个好事儿
03:29
which is what we're canning here.
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我们这个罐子里装的就是腌制蔬菜
03:31
Here's our hamburger cutaway.
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这是我们的汉堡切面
03:33
One of our philosophies in the book
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我们这本书的另一个信念
03:35
is that no dish
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就是
03:37
is really intrinsically any better than any other dish.
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没有一种食物从根本上比其它食物更高级
03:39
So you can lavish
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你大可以
03:41
all the same care, all the same technique,
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采用那些高级餐点的技巧
03:44
on a hamburger
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来制作
03:46
as you would on some much more fancy dish.
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一个汉堡
03:48
And if you do lavish as much technique as possible,
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而且如果你尽可能使用更多的技巧
03:51
and you try to make the highest quality hamburger,
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同时你尽可能制作最高质量的汉堡
03:53
it gets to be a little bit involved.
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那汉堡自己也会变得很争气
03:55
The New York Times ran a piece
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纽约时报写了一篇报道
03:57
after my book was delayed
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是有关我的书的延迟出版的
03:59
and it was called "The Wait for the 30-Hour Hamburger
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报道名为
04:02
Just Got Longer."
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“30小时汉堡需要等待更久”
04:04
Because our hamburger recipe, our ultimate hamburger recipe,
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正是由于我们的汉堡菜谱,我们顶级的汉堡菜谱
04:07
if you make the buns and you marinate the meat and you do all this stuff,
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如果你亲手烘烤面包,以及制作肉末,这些所有的事
04:10
it does take about 30 hours.
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确实是需要30小时
04:12
Of course, you're not actually working the whole time.
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当然了,你并非一直在工作
04:14
Most of the time is kind of sitting there.
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大部分时间只需要坐在那里
04:16
The point of this cutaway
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这种切面的意义就在于
04:18
is to show people a view of hamburgers they haven't seen before
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让人们从一种全新的视角观看汉堡
04:20
and to explain the physics of hamburgers
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同时解释有关汉堡的物理学
04:22
and the chemistry of hamburgers,
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以及有关汉堡的化学
04:24
because, believe it or not, there is something to the physics and chemistry --
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因为,无论你信不信,这些都是物理和化学
04:27
in particular, those flames underneath the burger.
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尤其是这块汉堡下的那些火苗
04:30
Most of the characteristic char-grilled taste
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大部分碳烤口味
04:33
doesn't come from the wood or the charcoal.
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并非真的来自木材或木碳
04:36
Buying mesquite charcoal will not actually make that much difference.
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买最好的梅斯基特Mesquite木炭也不会有任何区别
04:39
Mostly it comes from fat pyrolyzing, or burning.
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这些口味主要是来自于脂肪的热化,另称为燃烧
04:42
So it's the fat that drips down and flares up
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因此脂肪滴落下来,再燃烧
04:45
that causes the characteristic taste.
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才形成了独特的口味
04:47
Now you might wonder, how do we make these cutaways?
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现在你可能会好奇,我们是怎样得到这些横切面的
04:49
Most people assume we use Photoshop.
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大部分人会想当然认为我们使用Photoshop
04:51
And the answer is: no, not really;
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但答案是否定的
04:53
we use a machine shop.
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我们有一个机器工厂
04:56
And it turns out, the best way to cut things in half
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事实证明,把东西切成一半的最佳办法
04:59
is to actually cut them in half.
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就是实实在在地把它们对半切开
05:02
So we have two halves of one of the best kitchens in the world.
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所以我们有了两半的世界上最棒的厨房
05:04
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
05:06
We cut a $5,000 restaurant oven in half.
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我们一共切了5000美金的餐厅用烤炉
05:10
The manufacturer said,
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制造商说
05:12
"What would it take for you to cut one in half?"
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“你到底为了什么把它切成这样?”
05:14
I said, "It would have to show up free."
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我说,“为了能免费展出。”
05:16
And so it showed up, we used it a little while,
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于是我们用了一段时间后
05:18
we cut it in half.
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把它对半切了
05:20
Now you can also see a little bit how we did some of these shots.
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现在你还能看看我们是如何做到这一切的
05:23
We would glue a piece of Pyrex
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我们会在前部粘上一片耐热薄膜
05:25
or heat-resistant glass in front.
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或者隔热玻璃
05:28
We used a red, very high-temperature silicon to do that.
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我们用一种红色的、耐高温的硅胶
05:31
The great thing is, when you cut something in half,
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令人高兴的事儿是,当你把东西对半切的时候
05:33
you have another half.
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你还有了另一半
05:35
So you photograph that in exactly the same position,
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所以你用Photograph把另一半放到一样的位置里
05:37
and then you can substitute in --
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去代替原来的那一半
05:39
and that part does use Photoshop -- just the edges.
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这一部分我们确实是用了Photoshop -- 只是在边际处
05:42
So it's very much like in a Hollywood movie
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所以这就跟好莱坞电影很像
05:44
where a guy flies through the air, supported by wires,
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一个男人佩戴保护线从空中飞过去,
05:46
and then they take the wires away digitally
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然后用数码技术把保护线移除
05:48
so you're flying through the air.
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你就看到他确实在空中飞翔
05:50
In most cases, though, there was no glass.
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虽然在大部分情况下并没有玻璃
05:52
Like for the hamburger, we just cut the damn barbecue.
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譬如这个汉堡,我们好歹把这个烧烤台切开了
05:55
And so those coals that kept falling off the edge,
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这些煤炭一直从边角处掉出来
05:58
we kept having to put them back up.
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我们不得不一直把它们放回去
06:00
But again, it only has to work for a thousandth of a second.
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不过再申明一次,我们只需要千分之一秒
06:02
The wok shot caught fire three times.
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这个灶台闹了三次火灾
06:05
What happens when you have your wok cut in half
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当你把你的灶台对半切
06:07
is the oil goes down into the fire
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油就会一直滴到火里
06:09
and whoosh!
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然后“哄”
06:11
One of our cooks lost his eyebrows that way.
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我们有一个厨师就是这样丢掉了眉毛
06:13
But hey, they grow back.
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不过幸好他们又长回来了
06:15
In addition to cutaways,
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除了横切
06:17
we also explain physics.
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我们还解释物理学
06:19
This is Fourier's law of heat conduction.
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这是热传导的傅里叶定律
06:21
It's a partial differential equation.
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这是偏微分方程
06:23
We have the only cookbook in the world
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我们是世界上唯一一本
06:25
that has partial differential equations in it.
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有偏微分方程的烹饪书
06:27
But to make them palatable,
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为了让这些东西变得“可口”
06:29
we cut it out of a steel plate and put it in front of a fire
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我们把它从一个金属板上剪下来放到火焰前面
06:32
and photographed it like this.
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用Photograph做成了这样
06:34
We've got lots of little tidbits in the book.
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这本书里,有我们许许多多这样的袖珍趣事
06:37
Everybody knows that your various appliances
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我想大家都知道所有设备
06:39
have wattage, right?
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都有不同的瓦数,对吧?
06:42
But you probably don't know that much about James Watt.
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但你可能不知道James Watt(詹姆斯瓦特)
06:44
But now you will; we put a biography of James Watt in.
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但现在你知道了;我们加入了一段James Watt的生平简历
06:47
It's a little couple paragraphs
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只是几小段
06:49
to explain why we call that unit of heat the watt,
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解释我们为什么会称这些热单位为瓦特
06:52
and where he got his inspiration.
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以及他是从哪里得到的灵感
06:54
It turned out he was hired by a Scottish distillery
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事实是他为了了解
06:57
to understand why they were burning so damn much peat
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人们为什么为了蒸馏威士忌要耗费如此之多的泥碳
06:59
to distill the whiskey.
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特地在苏格兰酿酒厂工作
07:01
We also did a lot of calculation.
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我们也做了很多计算
07:03
I personally wrote thousands of lines of code
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我自己为了这本书
07:05
to write this cookbook.
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就写了数千行程序
07:07
Here's a calculation
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这里就是计算
07:09
that shows how the intensity of a barbecue,
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这里显示烧烤的强度
07:11
or other radiant heat source, goes
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或者其它辐射热源
07:13
as you move away from it.
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随距离长短的变化
07:15
So as you move vertically away from this surface,
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当你在垂直方向远离热源时
07:17
the heat falls off.
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热度降低
07:19
As you move side to side, it moves off.
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当你从水平移动时,热度会消失
07:21
That horn-shaped region
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这个喇叭状的区域
07:23
is what we call the sweet spot.
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我们称之为最佳地点
07:25
That's the place where the heat is even to within 10 percent.
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这个区域的温度很均匀,差别在10%以内
07:28
So that's the place where you really want to cook.
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这个区域是你真正想用来烹饪的
07:30
And it's got this funny horn-shaped thing,
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这里这个有趣的喇叭状的东西
07:32
which as far as I know, again,
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是就我所知的,
07:34
the first cookbook to ever do this.
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全世界第一本烹饪书
07:36
Now it may also be the last cookbook that ever does it.
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当然也可能是最后一本有这玩意儿的烹饪书
07:39
You know, there's two ways
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你们知道,
07:41
you can make a product.
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推出一个产品有两种办法
07:43
You can do lots of market research
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你可以做大量的市场调研
07:45
and do focus groups
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以及目标客户群
07:47
and figure out what people really want,
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去看看人们到底想要什么
07:49
or you can just kind of go for it
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或者你可以试着推出
07:51
and make the book you want and hope other people like it.
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你想要的书,再看看人们是不是喜欢
07:54
Here's a step-by-step that shows grinding hamburger.
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这里手把手地教你怎样制作汉堡
07:57
If you really want great hamburger,
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如果你真的想要特别棒的汉堡
07:59
it turns out it makes a difference if you align the grain.
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如果你调整配方,结果确实会与众不同
08:02
And it's really simple, as you can see here.
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真的很简单,就如你在这儿看到的
08:04
As it comes out of the grinder, you just have a little tray,
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当肉从磨子里出来的时候,就用一个小盘子接着
08:06
and you just take it off in little passes,
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然后你把这些肉取出来
08:08
build it up, slice it vertically.
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堆好,再纵切
08:10
Here's the final hamburger.
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这就是最后的成品汉堡
08:12
This is the 30-hour hamburger.
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这是一个30小时的汉堡
08:14
We make every aspect of this burger.
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我们亲手制作了这个汉堡的每一个细节
08:16
The lettuce has got liquid smoke infused into it.
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生菜这儿有液状烟雾
08:19
We also have things about how to make the bun.
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我们还展示了如何做面包
08:22
There's a mushroom, ketchup -- it goes on and on.
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有蘑菇,番茄酱,以及其它各种材料
08:25
Now watch closely. This is popcorn. I'll explain it here.
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现在仔细看,这是爆米花,我来做些解释
08:28
The popcorn is illustrating
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这个爆米花显示了
08:30
a key thing in physics.
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一个物理学里的关键点
08:32
Isn't that beautiful?
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是不是非常美丽
08:34
We have a very high-speed camera,
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我们使用了超高速照相机
08:37
which we had lots of fun with on the book.
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我们从这个照相机那儿得到了不少乐趣
08:39
The key physics principle here
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这里的主要物理学原理
08:41
is when water boils to steam
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就是当沸水变成蒸汽时
08:43
it expands by a factor of 1,600.
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会扩张1600倍
08:45
That's what's happening to the water inside that popcorn.
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这就是玉米粒中的水发生的事
08:47
So it's a great illustration of that.
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这个照片是个完美的诠释
08:49
Now I'm going to close with a video that is kind of unusual.
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现在让我用一段不一般地视频做个结尾。
08:52
We have a chapter on gels.
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我们有一章是讲胶状物的
08:54
And because people watch Mythbusters and CSI,
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因为大家都看Mythbusters和CSI
08:57
I thought, well, let's put in a recipe
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我想,那就让我们加一个
08:59
for a ballistics gelatin.
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弹道明胶的菜谱
09:02
Well, if you have a high-speed camera,
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好吧,如果你有一个高速相机
09:04
and you have a block of ballistics gelatin lying around,
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还有一块弹道明胶
09:07
pretty soon somebody does this.
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然后这样做
09:11
(Gasps)
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(惊叹)
09:13
Now the amazing thing here
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现在令人惊讶的是
09:15
is that a ballistics gelatin is supposed to mimic
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弹道明胶实际上是模仿
09:17
what happens to human flesh when you get shot -- that's why you shouldn't get shot.
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遭受枪击时人体发生的状况 -- 正因此你一定不可以被击中
09:20
The other amazing thing is, when this ballistics gelatin comes down,
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另一件令人惊异的事是,当弹道明胶落回原处时
09:23
it falls back down as a nice block.
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能够完全恢复到原本完美的块状
09:25
Anyway, here's the book.
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好吧书在这儿
09:28
Here it is.
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这个就是
09:32
2,438 pages.
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2438页
09:36
And they're nice big pages too.
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而且也很漂亮
09:39
(Applause)
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(掌声)
09:47
A friend of mine complained
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我一个朋友抱怨
09:49
that this was too big and too pretty to go in the kitchen,
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这本书太大太美带入厨房很不方便
09:51
so there's a sixth volume
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所以我们就退出了六册
09:53
that has washable, waterproof paper.
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是可洗防水纸质的书
09:55
(Applause)
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(掌声)
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