Tales of ice-bound wonderlands | Paul Nicklen

282,912 views ・ 2011-05-11

TED


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Translator: Laura T. Reviewer: Kristaps Kadiķis
00:15
My journey to become a polar specialist,
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Mans ceļojums, lai kļūtu par polāro speciālistu,
00:18
photographing, specializing in the polar regions,
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fotografējot, specializējoties polārajos reģionos
00:21
began when I was four years old,
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sākās, kad es biju 4 gadus vecs,
00:23
when my family moved from southern Canada
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kad mana ģimene pārcēlās no Dienvidkanādas
00:26
to Northern Baffin Island, up by Greenland.
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uz Ziemeļu Bafina salu Grenlandē.
00:29
There we lived with the Inuit
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Tur mēs dzīvojām kopā ar inuītiem.
00:31
in the tiny Inuit community of 200 Inuit people,
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Mazajā 200 cilvēku inuītu sabiedrībā
00:33
where [we] were one of three non-Inuit families.
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mēs bijām viena no trim neinuītu ģimenēm.
00:36
And in this community, we didn't have a television;
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Un šajā sabiedrībā mums nebija ne televizora,
00:38
we didn't have computers, obviously, radio.
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ne datoru, ne radio.
00:41
We didn't even have a telephone.
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Mums pat nebija tālruņa.
00:44
All of my time was spent outside
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Visu savu laiku es pavadīju ārā,
00:46
with the Inuit, playing.
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spēlējoties kopā ar inuītiem.
00:48
The snow and the ice were my sandbox,
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Sniegs un ledus bija mana smilšu kaste,
00:50
and the Inuit were my teachers.
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un inuīti bija mani skolotāji.
00:52
And that's where I became
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Un tur es kļuvu
00:54
truly obsessed with this polar realm.
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patiesi apsēsts ar šo polāro valstību.
00:56
And I knew someday that I was going to do something
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Un es zināju, ka kādu dienu es izdarīšu ko tādu,
00:58
that had to do with trying to share news about it
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kas saistīts ar cenšanos iepazīstināt citus ar to
01:00
and protect it.
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un to aizsargāt.
01:02
I'd like to share with you, for just two minutes only,
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Es vēlētos dalīties ar jums, tas aizņems tikai 2 minūtes,
01:04
some images, a cross-section of my work,
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ar dažiem attēliem, ar mana darba šķērsgriezumu,
01:06
to the beautiful music by Brandi Carlile, "Have You Ever."
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kopā ar skaisto Brendī Kārlailas dziesmu "Have You Ever."
01:09
I don't know why National Geographic has done this, they've never done this before,
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Es nezinu, kāpēc National Geographic ir to izdarījuši, viņi nekad iepriekš to nav darījuši,
01:12
but they're allowing me to show you a few images
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bet viņi atļauj man parādīt jums dažus attēlus
01:14
from a coverage that I've just completed that is not published yet.
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no reportāžas, ko tikko esmu pabeidzis, bet kura nav vēl publicēta.
01:17
National Geographic doesn't do this,
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National Geographic tā nedara.
01:19
so I'm very excited to be able to share this with you.
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Tāpēc es esmu ļoti satraukts, ka varu ar jums dalīties.
01:21
And what these images are --
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Un kādi ir šie attēli --
01:23
you'll see them at the start of the slide show -- there's only about four images --
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jūs tos redzēsiet slīdrādes sākumā -- tur ir tikai apmēram 4 attēli --
01:26
but it's of a little bear that lives in the Great Bear Rainforest.
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tajos ir redzams lācēns, kurš dzīvo Lielā lāča lietus mežā.
01:29
It's pure white, but it's not a polar bear.
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Viņš ir pilnīgi balts, bet nav polārlācis.
01:32
It's a spirit bear, or a Kermode bear.
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Viņš ir spoku lācis, vai Kermoda lācis.
01:34
There are only 200 of these bears left.
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Ir palikuši tikai 200 šādi lāči.
01:36
They're more rare than the panda bear.
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Tie ir vēl retāki nekā pandas.
01:39
I sat there on the river for two months without seeing one.
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Es sēdēju uz upes apmēram 2 mēnešus nevienu no tiem neredzot.
01:42
I thought, my career's over.
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Es domāju, ka mana karjera ir beigusies.
01:44
I proposed this stupid story to National Geographic.
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Es ieteicu šo stulbo stāstu National Geographic.
01:46
What in the heck was I thinking?
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Ko, pie velna, es domāju?
01:48
So I had two months to sit there
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Man bija divi mēneši, lai tur sēdētu
01:50
and figure out different ways of what I was going to do in my next life,
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un apsvērtu dažādus ceļus, ko es varētu darīt savā turpmākajā dzīvē
01:52
after I was a photographer, because they were going to fire me.
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pēc fotogrāfa karjeras, jo viņi mani atlaistu no darba.
01:54
Because National Geographic is a magazine; they remind us all the time:
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Jo National Geographic ir žurnāls; viņi visu laiku mums atgādina,
01:57
they publish pictures, not excuses.
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ka publicē attēlus, nevis aizbildinājumus.
01:59
(Laughter)
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(Smiekli)
02:04
And after two months of sitting there --
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Un pēc divu mēnešu ilgas sēdēšanas --
02:06
one day, thinking that it was all over,
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vienu dienu, domājot, ka viss beidzies,
02:08
this incredible big white male came down,
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šis neticami lielais baltais tēviņš nopeldēja lejā,
02:10
right beside me, three feet away from me,
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tieši blakus man, trīs pēdas no manis,
02:12
and he went down and grabbed a fish and went off in the forest and ate it.
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un viņš nopeldēja un noķēra zivi, un iegāja mežā, un to apēda.
02:15
And then I spent the entire day living my childhood dream
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Un tad es pavadīju visu dienu izdzīvojot savu bērnības sapni,
02:18
of walking around with this bear through the forest.
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sekojot šim lācim cauri mežam.
02:21
He went through this old-growth forest
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Viņš gāja cauri šim vecajam mežam
02:23
and sat up beside this 400-year-old culturally modified tree and went to sleep.
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un apsēdās pie 400 gadu veca kulturāli pārveidota koka un aizmiga.
02:26
And I actually got to sleep within three feet of him,
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Un es gulēju trīs pēdu attālumā no viņa
02:29
just in the forest, and photograph him.
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mežā, un fotografēju viņu.
02:32
So I'm very excited to be able to show you those images
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Es esmu ļoti satraukts, ka varu parādīt jums šos attēlus
02:35
and a cross-section of my work that I've done on the polar regions.
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un mana darba, kuru esmu veicis polārajos reģionos, šķērsgriezumu.
02:37
Please enjoy.
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Lūdzu, izbaudiet.
02:40
(Music)
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(Mūzika)
02:44
Brandi Carlile: ♫ Have you ever wandered lonely through the woods? ♫
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Brendī Kārlaila: ♫Vai esi kādreiz klejojis vientuļš pa mežiem? ♫
02:50
♫ And everything there feels just as it should ♫
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♫ Un viss šeit šķiet tā tam vajadzētu būt ♫
02:55
♫ You're part of the life there ♫
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♫ Šeit tu esi dzīves daļa ♫
02:57
♫ You're part of something good ♫
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♫ Tu esi kaut kā laba daļa ♫
03:00
♫ If you've ever wandered lonely through the woods ♫
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♫ Ja esi kādreiz klejojis vientuļš pa mežiem ♫
03:06
♫ Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh ♫
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♫ Ū-ū-ū-ū-ū-ū ♫
03:11
♫ If you've ever wandered lonely through the woods ♫
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♫ Ja esi kādreiz klejojis vientuļš pa mežiem ♫
03:16
♫ Have you ever stared into a starry sky? ♫
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♫ Vai esi kādreiz lūkojies zvaigžņotās debesīs? ♫
03:21
♫ Lying on your back, you're asking why ♫
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♫ Guļot uz muguras, tu vaicā kādēļ ♫
03:26
♫ What's the purpose? ♫
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♫ Kāds tam ir mērķis? ♫
03:28
♫ I wonder, who am I? ♫
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♫ Es prātoju, kas es esmu? ♫
03:31
♫ If you've ever stared into a starry sky ♫
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♫ Ja esi kādreiz lūkojies zvaigžņotās debesīs ♫
03:37
♫ Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh ♫
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♫ Ū-ū-ū-ū-ū-ū ♫
03:43
♫ Aah, ah, aah ♫
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♫ Ā-ā-ā-ā ♫
03:48
♫ Ah, oh, oh, ah, ah, oh, oh ♫
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♫ Ā-o-o-ā-ā-o-o ♫
03:55
♫ Have you ever stared into a starry sky? ♫
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♫ Vai esi kādreiz lūkojies zvaigžņotās debesīs? ♫
04:05
♫ Have you ever been out walking in the snow? ♫
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♫ Vai esi kādreiz bridis sniegā? ♫
04:10
♫ Tried to get back where you were before ♫
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♫ Cenšoties tikt atpakaļ, kur biji pirms tam ♫
04:15
♫ You always end up ♫
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♫ Tu vienmēr attopies ♫
04:17
♫ Not knowing where to go ♫
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♫ Nezinot, kur doties ♫
04:23
♫ If you've ever been out walking in the snow ♫
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♫ Ja esi kādreiz bridis sniegā ♫
04:28
♫ Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh ♫
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♫ Ū-ū-ū-ū-ū-ū ♫
04:34
♫ Aah, ah, aah, ah, aah ♫
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♫ Ā-ā-ā-ā-ā ♫
04:38
♫ Ah, ah, oh, ah, ah, oh, ah ♫
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♫ Ā-ā-o-ā-ā-o-ā ♫
04:46
♫ Oh, ah, ah, ah ♫
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♫ O-ā-ā-ā ♫
04:49
♫ Ah, ah, oh, ah, ah, oh, oh ♫
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♫ Ā-ā-ā-o-ā-ā-o-o ♫
04:57
♫ If you'd ever been out walking you would know ♫
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♫ Ja esi kādreiz staigājis, tu zinātu ♫
05:04
(Applause)
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(Aplausi)
05:08
Paul Nicklen: Thank you very much. The show's not over.
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Pols Niklens: Liels paldies. Šovs nav beidzies.
05:11
My clock is ticking. OK, let's stop.
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Mans pulkstenis tikšķ. Labi, apstāsimies.
05:13
Thank you very much. I appreciate it.
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Liels paldies. Es to novērtēju.
05:15
We're inundated with news all the time
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Mēs visu laiku tiekam pārplūdināti ar jaunumiem,
05:18
that the sea ice is disappearing
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ka jūrā ledus pazūd
05:20
and it's at its lowest level.
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un tas ir viszemākajā līmenī.
05:22
And in fact, scientists were originally saying
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Un patiesībā zinātnieki sākotnēji teica,
05:24
sea ice is going to disappear in the next hundred years, then they said 50 years.
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ka ledus pazudīs nākamajos simts gados, tad tie teica, ka 50 gados.
05:27
Now they're saying the sea ice in the Arctic,
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Tagad tie saka, ka Arktikā jūras ledus,
05:30
the summertime extent is going to be gone in the next four to 10 years.
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vasaras laikā apjoms pazudīs nākamajos 4 līdz 10 gados.
05:33
And what does that mean?
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Un ko tas nozīmē?
05:35
After a while of reading this in the news, it just becomes news.
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Pēc laika lasot to ziņās, tās vienkārši kļūst par ziņām.
05:38
You glaze over with it.
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Tu samierinies ar to.
05:40
And what I'm trying to do with my work is put faces to this.
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Un tas, ko es cenšos darīt ar savu darbu, ir tam piesaistīt.
05:42
And I want people to understand and get the concept
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Un es vēlos, lai cilvēki saprot un gūst priekšstatu,
05:45
that, if we lose ice,
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ka, ja mēs pazaudēsim ledu,
05:47
we stand to lose an entire ecosystem.
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mēs varam zaudēt visu ekosistēmu.
05:49
Projections are that we could lose polar bears, they could become extinct
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Tiek prognozēts, ka mēs varam zaudēt polārlāčus, tie var izmirt
05:52
in the next 50 to 100 years.
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nākamajos 50 līdz 100 gados.
05:54
And there's no better, sexier,
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Un nav labākas, seksīgākas,
05:56
more beautiful, charismatic megafauna species
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skaistākas, harizmātiskākas megafaunas sugas,
05:59
for me to hang my campaign on.
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lai es veidotu savu kampaņu.
06:02
Polar bears are amazing hunters.
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Polārlāči ir apbrīnojami mednieki.
06:04
This was a bear I sat with for a while on the shores.
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Šis bija lācis, ar kuru kopā kādu laiku es sēdēju krastos.
06:06
There was no ice around.
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Tur apkārt nebija ledus.
06:08
But this glacier caved into the water and a seal got on it.
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bet ledājs iebruka ūdenī un ronis uz tā uzrāpās.
06:10
And this bear swam out to that seal --
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Un šis lācis aizpeldēja līdz ronim --
06:12
800 lb. bearded seal --
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800 mārciņu smagam bārdainam ronim --
06:14
grabbed it, swam back and ate it.
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sagrāba to, atpeldēja atpakaļ un to apēda.
06:17
And he was so full, he was so happy and so fat eating this seal,
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Un viņš bija tik pieēdies, tik laimīgs un tik resns, ēdot šo roni,
06:20
that, as I approached him --
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ka es, kad viņam tuvojos --
06:22
about 20 feet away -- to get this picture,
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no apmēram 20 pēdu attāluma -- lai uzņemtu šo attēlu,
06:24
his only defense was to keep eating more seal.
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viņa vienīgā aizsardzība bija turpināt ēst roni.
06:26
And as he ate, he was so full --
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Un, kad viņš paēda, viņš bija tik pilns --
06:28
he probably had about 200 lbs of meat in his belly --
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viņam vēderā iespējams bija ap 200 mārciņu gaļas --
06:31
and as he ate inside one side of his mouth,
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un, kad viņš ēda ar vienu mutes pusi,
06:33
he was regurgitating out the other side of his mouth.
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ar otru pusi viņš atrija atpakaļ.
06:36
So as long as these bears have any bit of ice they will survive,
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Tik ilgi, kamēr šiem lāčiem būs kaut gabaliņš ledus, viņi izdzīvos,
06:39
but it's the ice that's disappearing.
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bet ledus ir tas, kas izzūd.
06:42
We're finding more and more dead bears in the Arctic.
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Mēs atrodam arvien vairāk un vairāk mirušu lāču Arktikā.
06:45
When I worked on polar bears as a biologist 20 years ago,
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Kad es strādāju ar polārlāčiem kā biologs pirms 20 gadiem,
06:47
we never found dead bears.
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mēs nekad neatradām beigtus lāčus.
06:49
And in the last four or five years,
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Un pēdējos četros vai piecos gados
06:51
we're finding dead bears popping up all over the place.
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mēs atrodam mirušus lāčus visā teritorijā.
06:53
We're seeing them in the Beaufort Sea,
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Mēs tos redzam Boforta jūrā,
06:55
floating in the open ocean where the ice has melted out.
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peldot atklātā okeānā, kur ledus ir izkusis.
06:57
I found a couple in Norway last year. We're seeing them on the ice.
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Es pāris atradu pagājušgad Norvēģijā. Mēs tos redzam uz ledus.
07:00
These bears are already showing signs
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Šie lāči jau izrāda stresa pazīmes,
07:02
of the stress of disappearing ice.
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jo izzūd ledus.
07:05
Here's a mother and her two year-old cub
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Te ir māte un viņas divus gadus vecais mazulis.
07:08
were traveling on a ship a hundred miles offshore in the middle of nowhere,
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Mēs kuģojam 100 jūdzes no krasta nekurienes vidū,
07:11
and they're riding on this big piece of glacier ice,
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un viņi atrodas uz šī lielā ledāja ledus gabala,
07:13
which is great for them; they're safe at this point.
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kas priekš viņiem ir liels, viņi ir drošībā.
07:15
They're not going to die of hypothermia.
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Viņi nenomirs no ķermeņa atdzišanas.
07:17
They're going to get to land.
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Tie tiks līdz sauszemei.
07:19
But unfortunately, 95 percent of the glaciers in the Arctic
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Taču, diemžēl, 95% no Arktikas ledājiem
07:21
are also receding right now
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šobrīd atkāpjas
07:23
to the point that the ice is ending up on land
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līdz punktam, ka ledus izkūst zemē
07:25
and not injecting any ice back into the ecosystem.
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un nekas nenokļūst atpakaļ ekosistēmā.
07:29
These ringed seals, these are the "fatsicles" of the Arctic.
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Šie gredzena roņi, tie ir Arktikas "resnuļi".
07:31
These little, fat dumplings,
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Šie mazie, resnie apalīši,
07:33
150-pound bundles of blubber
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150 mārciņu trāna sainīši,
07:36
are the mainstay of the polar bear.
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ir galvenais polārlāču atbalsts.
07:38
And they're not like the harbor seals that you have here.
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Un tie nav kā ostas roņi, kas ir šeit.
07:41
These ringed seals also live out their entire life cycle
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Šie gredzena roņi izdzīvo visu savu dzīves ciklu
07:44
associated and connected to sea ice.
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saistīti un vienoti ar jūras ledu.
07:47
They give birth inside the ice,
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Tie dzemdē iekšā ledū,
07:49
and they feed on the Arctic cod that live under the ice.
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un tie barojas no Arktiskajām mencām, kas dzīvo zem ledus.
07:52
And here's a picture of sick ice.
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Un te ir slima ledus attēls.
07:54
This is a piece of multi-year ice that's 12 years old.
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Šis ir vairākgadu ledus, kas ir 12 gadus vecs.
07:57
And what scientists didn't predict is that, as this ice melts,
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Un tas, ko zinātnieki neparedzēja, ir tas, ka, šim ledum kūstot,
08:00
these big pockets of black water are forming
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veidojas šīs lielās melnā ūdens kabatas,
08:03
and they're grabbing the sun's energy
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un tās savāc saules enerģiju
08:05
and accelerating the melting process.
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un paātrina kušanas procesu.
08:07
And here we are diving in the Beaufort Sea.
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Un te mēs nirstam Boforta jūrā.
08:09
The visibility's 600 ft.; we're on our safety lines;
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Redzamība ir 600 pēdas; mēs esam savās drošības joslās;
08:12
the ice is moving all over the place.
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ledus viscaur pārvietojas.
08:14
I wish I could spend half an hour telling you
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Es vēlētos, kaut varētu pavadīt pusstundu, stāstot jums
08:16
about how we almost died on this dive.
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par to, kā mēs gandrīz gājām bojā nirstot.
08:18
But what's important in this picture is that you have a piece of multi-year ice,
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Bet tas, kas ir svarīgs šajā attēlā, ir tas, ka jums ir daudzgadu ledus gabals,
08:21
that big chunk of ice up in the corner.
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tā lielā ledus pika augšējā stūrī.
08:23
In that one single piece of ice,
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Šādā vienā ledus gabalā
08:25
you have 300 species of microorganisms.
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ir 300 mikroorganismu sugas.
08:27
And in the spring, when the sun returns to the ice,
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Un pavasarī, kad saule atgriežas uz ledus,
08:30
it forms the phytoplankton, grows under that ice,
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tas veidojas, fitoplanktons, aug zem šī ledus,
08:32
and then you get bigger sheets of seaweed,
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un tad jūs iegūstat lielākus jūraszāļu slāņus,
08:35
and then you get the zooplankton feeding on all that life.
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un tad jūs iegūstat zooplanktonu, kas barojas no tā visa.
08:37
So really what the ice does
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Tas, ko ledus patiešām dara,
08:39
is it acts like a garden.
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tas ir kā dārzs.
08:41
It acts like the soil in a garden. It's an inverted garden.
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Tas ir kā dārza augsne. Tas ir citāds dārzs.
08:44
Losing that ice is like losing the soil in a garden.
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Zaudēt šo ledu ir kā zaudēt augsni dārzā.
08:46
Here's me in my office.
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Tas esmu es savā kabinetā.
08:48
I hope you appreciate yours.
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Es ceru, ka jūs novērtējat savējos.
08:50
This is after an hour under the ice.
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Tas ir pēc stundas zem ledus.
08:53
I can't feel my lips; my face is frozen;
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Es nejūtu savas lūpas; mana seja ir pārsalusi;
08:55
I can't feel my hands; I can't feel my feet.
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es nejūtu savas rokas; nejūtu savas kājas.
08:57
And I've come up, and all I wanted to do was get out of the water.
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Un es esmu uzniris, un viss, ko es vēlējos, bija tikt ārā no ūdens.
09:00
After an hour in these conditions,
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Pēc stundas šajos apstākļos,
09:02
it's so extreme that, when I go down,
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tas ir tik ekstrēmi, ka tad, kad es noniru lejā,
09:04
almost every dive I vomit into my regulator
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gandrīz katru elpu es izgrūdu savā regulatorā,
09:06
because my body can't deal with the stress of the cold on my head.
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jo mans ķermenis nevarēja cīnīties ar aukstuma stresu manā galvā.
09:09
And so I'm just so happy that the dive is over.
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Un es esmu tik laimīgs, ka niršana beigusies.
09:11
I get to hand my camera to my assistant,
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Es iedodu savu kameru savam palīgam,
09:13
and I'm looking up at him, and I'm going, "Woo. Woo. Woo."
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un es skatos augšup uz viņu, un saku, "Vū. Vū. Vū."
09:16
Which means, "Take my camera."
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Kas nozīmē, "Paņem manu kameru."
09:18
And he thinks I'm saying, "Take my picture."
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Un viņš domā, ka es saku, "Nofotogrāfē mani."
09:20
So we had this little communication breakdown.
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Tā nu mums bija šī nelielā saziņas kļūme.
09:23
(Laughter)
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(Smiekli)
09:26
But it's worth it.
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Bet tas ir tā vērts.
09:28
I'm going to show you pictures of beluga whales, bowhead whales,
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Es jums šodien parādīšu baltvaļu, polāro vaļu,
09:30
and narwhals, and polar bears, and leopard seals today,
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un narvaļu, un polārlāču, un leoparda roņu fotogrāfijas,
09:33
but this picture right here means more to me than any other I've ever made.
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bet šis attēls man nozīmē daudz vairāk, nekā kāds cits, ko esmu uzņēmis.
09:36
I dropped down in this ice hole, just through that hole that you just saw,
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Es nolaidos šajā ledus caurumā, caur šo caurumu, ko jūs tikko redzējāt,
09:39
and I looked up under the underside of the ice,
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un paskatījos augšup no zemledus,
09:41
and I was dizzy; I thought I had vertigo.
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un es biju apreibis; es domāju, ka man bija reibonis.
09:43
I got very nervous -- no rope, no safety line,
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Es kļuvu ļoti nervozs -- ne virves, ne drošības līnijas,
09:45
the whole world is moving around me --
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visa pasaule griežas ap mani --
09:47
and I thought, "I'm in trouble."
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un es nodomāju, "Es esmu nepatikšanās."
09:49
But what happened is that the entire underside
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Bet tas, kas notika, bija, ka viss zem ledus
09:51
was full of these billions of amphipods and copepods
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bija pilns ar šiem miljardiem sānpelžu un airkājvēzīšu,
09:54
moving around and feeding on the underside of the ice,
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tie kustējās un barojās ledus apakšējā daļā,
09:57
giving birth and living out their entire life cycle.
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dzemdējot un dzīvojot visu dzīves ciklu.
09:59
This is the foundation of the whole food chain in the Arctic, right here.
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Šis ir visas Arktikas barības ķēdes pamats, tieši šeit.
10:02
And when you have low productivity in this, in ice,
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Un, kad ledū ir zema auglība,
10:05
the productivity in copepods go down.
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tad arī airkājvēžu ražība samazinās.
10:08
This is a bowhead whale.
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Šis ir polārais valis.
10:10
Supposedly, science is stating
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Domājams, zinātne uzskata,
10:12
that it could be the oldest living animal on earth right now.
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ka tas varētu būt šobrīd vecākais uz zemes dzīvojošais dzīvnieks.
10:15
This very whale right here could be over 250 years old.
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Šis valis varētu būt vairāk kā 250 gadus vecs.
10:18
This whale could have been born
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Šis valis varētu būt dzimis
10:20
around the start of the Industrial Revolution.
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ap rūpnieciskās revolūcijas sākuma laiku.
10:22
It could have survived 150 years of whaling.
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Tas varētu būt izdzīvojis 150 gadus, kopš sāktas vaļu medības.
10:25
And now its biggest threat is the disappearance of ice in the North
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Un tagad tā lielākais drauds ir ziemeļu ledus izzušana,
10:28
because of the lives that we're leading in the South.
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dzīves dēļ, ko mēs dzīvojam dienvidos.
10:31
Narwhals, these majestic narwhals
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Narvaļiem, šie majestātiskiem narvaļiem
10:33
with their eight-foot long ivory tusks, don't have to be here;
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ar saviem 8 pēdu garajiem ziloņkaula ilkņiem nevajadzētu būt te;
10:36
they could be out on the open water.
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tiem vajadzētu būt atklātā ūdenī.
10:38
But they're forcing themselves to come up in these tiny little ice holes
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Bet tie cīnās ar sevi, lai uzpeldētu pie šiem mazajiem ledus caurumiņiem,
10:41
where they can breathe, catch a breath,
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kur tie var elpot, ieelpot,
10:43
because right under that ice are all the swarms of cod.
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jo tieši zem šī ledus ir visi mencu bari.
10:46
And the cod are there
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Un mencas ir šeit,
10:48
because they are feeding on all the copepods and amphipods.
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jo tās barojas ar airkājvēžiem un sānpeldēm.
10:51
Alright, my favorite part.
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Labi, mana mīļākā daļa.
10:54
When I'm on my deathbed,
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Kad es būšu uz savas nāves gultas,
10:56
I'm going to remember one story more than any other.
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es atcerēšos vienu stāstu vairāk par jebkuru citu.
10:58
Even though that spirit bear moment was powerful,
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Pat ja mirklis ar spoku lāci bija ļoti atmiņā paliekošs,
11:01
I don't think I'll ever have another experience
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es nedomāju, ka kādreiz kaut ko līdzīgu piedzīvošu,
11:03
like I did with these leopard seals.
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kā tas notika ar šiem leoparda roņiem.
11:05
Leopard seals, since the time of Shackleton, have had a bad reputation.
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Leoparda roņiem jau no Šakletona laikiem ir bijusi slikta slava.
11:08
They've got that wryly smile on their mouth.
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Tiem uz lūpām ir šķībs smaids.
11:10
They've got those black sinister eyes
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Tiem ir šīs melnās, draudīgās acis
11:12
and those spots on their body.
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un šie plankumi uz ķermeņa.
11:14
They look positively prehistoric and a bit scary.
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Tie izskatās ļoti aizvēsturiski un nedaudz biedējoši.
11:17
And tragically in [2003],
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Un traģiski 2004. gadā
11:19
a scientist was taken down and drowned,
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zinātniece bija ienirusi un noslīkusi,
11:22
and she was being consumed by a leopard seal.
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un viņu apēda leoparda ronis.
11:24
And people were like, "We knew they were vicious. We knew they were."
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Un cilvēki teica, "Mēs zinājām, ka viņi ir ļauni. Mēs zinājām."
11:27
And so people love to form their opinions.
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Cilvēkiem patīk izteikt savus viedokļus.
11:29
And that's when I got a story idea:
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Un tad es ieguvu stāsta ideju:
11:31
I want to go to Antarctica,
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es vēlos doties uz Antarktiku,
11:33
get in the water with as many leopard seals as I possibly can
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tikt ūdenī ar pēc iespējas vairāk leoparda roņiem
11:35
and give them a fair shake --
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un tos nedaudz satricināt --
11:37
find out if they really are these vicious animals, or if they're misunderstood.
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uzzināt, vai tie ir ļauni dzīvnieki, vai arī tie ir pārprasti.
11:40
So this is that story.
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Šis ir tas stāsts.
11:42
Oh, and they also happen to eat Happy Feet.
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Ā un kā izrādās tie arī ēd laimīgas pēdas.
11:45
(Laughter)
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(Smiekli)
11:48
As a species, as humans, we like to say penguins are really cute,
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Kā sugai, kā cilvēkiem mums patīk teikt, ka pingvīni ir ļoti jauki,
11:51
therefore, leopard seals eat them, so leopard seals are ugly and bad.
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bet leoparda roņi tos ēd, tātad roņi ir neglīti un slikti.
11:54
It doesn't work that way.
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Tas tā nav.
11:56
The penguin doesn't know it's cute,
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Pingvīns nezina, ka tas ir jauks.
11:58
and the leopard seal doesn't know it's kind of big and monstrous.
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Un leoparda ronis nezina, ka tas ir liels un briesmīgs.
12:00
This is just the food chain unfolding.
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Tā ir tikai barības ķēde.
12:03
They're also big.
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Viņi arī ir lieli.
12:05
They're not these little harbor seals.
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Viņi nav šie mazie ostas roņi.
12:07
They are 12 ft. long, a thousand pounds.
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Viņi ir 12 pēdas gari, tūkstoš mārciņu smagi.
12:09
And they're also curiously aggressive.
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Un tie ir arī ļoti agresīvi.
12:12
You get 12 tourists packed into a Zodiac,
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12 tūristi atrodas Zodiakā,
12:15
floating in these icy waters,
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peldot pa šiem ledainajiem ūdeņiem,
12:17
and a leopard seal comes up and bites the pontoon.
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un leoparda ronis parādās un iekož pontonā.
12:19
The boat starts to sink, they race back to the ship
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Laiva sāk grimt, tā steidzas atpakaļ uz kuģi
12:22
and get to go home and tell the stories of how they got attacked.
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un pēc tam dodas mājās, un stāsta stāstus, kā viņiem uzbruka.
12:24
All the leopard seal was doing --
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Viss, ko leoparda ronis darīja --
12:26
it's just biting a balloon.
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tas tikai iekodās balonā.
12:28
It just sees this big balloon in the ocean -- it doesn't have hands --
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Tas redz tikai šo lielo balonu okeānā -- tam nav roku --
12:30
it's going to take a little bite, the boat pops, and off they go.
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vajag tikai vieglu kodienu, laiva pārplīst, un viņi aizbrauc.
12:33
(Laughter)
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(Smiekli)
12:35
So after five days of crossing the Drake Passage --
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Pēc piecām dienām, šķērsojot Dreika šaurumu --
12:38
isn't that beautiful --
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vai tas nav skaisti.
12:41
after five days of crossing the Drake Passage,
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Pēc piecām dienām, šķērsojot Dreika šaurumu,
12:44
we have finally arrived at Antarctica.
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mēs beidzot ieradāmies Antarktikā.
12:46
I'm with my Swedish assistant and guide.
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Es kopā ar savu zviedru palīgu un gidu.
12:48
His name is Goran Ehlme from Sweden -- Goran.
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Viņu sauc Gorans Elme no Zviedrijas -- Gorans.
12:52
And he has a lot of experience with leopard seals. I have never seen one.
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Un viņam ir liela pieredze ar leoparda roņiem. Es nekad tos neesmu redzējis.
12:55
So we come around the cove in our little Zodiac boat,
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Tā nu mēs ieradāmies līcī mūsu mazajā Zodiaka laivā,
12:58
and there's this monstrous leopard seal.
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un tur ir šis milzīgais leoparda ronis.
13:00
And even in his voice, he goes, "That's a bloody big seal, ya."
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Un viņš sāk, "Tas ir viens asinskārs, liels ronis, jā."
13:02
(Laughter)
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(Smiekli)
13:04
And this seal is taking this penguin by the head,
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Un šis ronis saņem pingvīnu aiz galvas,
13:07
and it's flipping it back and forth.
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un viņš to vicina uz priekšu un atpakaļ.
13:09
And what it's trying to do is turn that penguin inside-out,
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Un viņš cenšas šo pingvīnu apvērst ar iekšām uz āru,
13:11
so it can eat the meat off the bones,
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lai varētu noēst gaļu no kauliem,
13:14
and then it goes off and gets another one.
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un tad viņš pazūd un noķer vēl vienu.
13:16
And so this leopard seal grabbed another penguin,
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Un tā nu šis leoparda ronis noķēra citu pingvīnu,
13:18
came under the boat, the Zodiac,
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papeldēja zem laivas, zem Zodiaka,
13:20
starting hitting the hull of the boat.
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un sāka sist laivas korpusu.
13:22
And we're trying to not fall in the water.
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Un mēs centāmies neiekrist ūdenī.
13:24
And we sit down, and that's when Goran said to me,
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Un mēs sēdējām, un tad Gorans man teica,
13:27
"This is a good seal, ya.
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"Šis ir labs ronis, jā.
13:29
It's time for you to get in the water."
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Ir laiks tev nokļūt ūdenī."
13:31
(Laughter)
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(Smiekli)
13:34
And I looked at Goran, and I said to him, "Forget that."
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Un es paskatījos uz Goranu, un teicu viņam, "Aizmirsti to."
13:37
But I think I probably used a different word starting with the letter "F."
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Bet es domāju, ka, iespējams, lietoju citu vārdu, kas sākās ar to pašu burtu.
13:41
But he was right.
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Bet viņam bija taisnība.
13:43
He scolded me out, and said, "This is why we're here.
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Viņš mani sabāra, un teica, "Tāpēc mēs esam šeit.
13:45
And you purposed this stupid story to National Geographic.
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Un tu iesniegsi šo stulbo stāstu National Geographic.
13:47
And now you've got to deliver.
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Un tagad tev tas jānogādā.
13:49
And you can't publish excuses."
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Un tu nevari publicēt aizbildinājumus."
13:51
So I had such dry mouth --
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Man bija pilnīgi sausa mute --
13:53
probably not as bad as now --
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iespējams, ne tik ļoti, kā tagad --
13:55
but I had such, such dry mouth.
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bet man bija ļoti, ļoti sausa mute.
13:59
And my legs were just trembling. I couldn't feel my legs.
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Un manas kājas tik ļoti trīcēja. Es nejutu savas kājas.
14:02
I put my flippers on. I could barely part my lips.
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Es uzvilku pleznas. Es nevarēju gandrīz atvērt savas lūpas.
14:04
I put my snorkel in my mouth,
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Es ieliku mutē savu akvalanga cauruli
14:06
and I rolled over the side of the Zodiac into the water.
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un ievēlos ūdenī pār Zodiaka malu.
14:09
And this was the first thing she did.
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Un tā bija pirmā lieta, ko viņa izdarīja.
14:11
She came racing up to me, engulfed my whole camera --
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Viņa piepeldēja pie manis, aprija manu kameru --
14:14
and her teeth are up here and down here --
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un viņas zobi bija te augšā un te lejā --
14:17
but Goran, before I had gotten in the water, had given me amazing advice.
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bet Gorans, pirms es ielēcu ūdenī, bija devis man lielisku padomu.
14:20
He said, "If you get scared, you close your eyes, ya, and she'll go away."
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Viņš teica, "Ja tu nobīsties, aizver acis, jā, un viņa pazudīs."
14:24
(Laughter)
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(Smiekli)
14:27
So that's all I had to work with at that point.
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Tas ir viss, kas man bija jādara šajā gadījumā.
14:29
But I just started to shoot these pictures.
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Bet es tikko sāku uzņemt šos attēlus.
14:31
So she did this threat display for a few minutes,
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Viņa pāris minūtes draudēja,
14:33
and then the most amazing thing happened -- she totally relaxed.
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un tad notika visneticamākā lieta -- viņa pilnīgi nomierinājās.
14:36
She went off, she got a penguin.
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Viņa aizpeldēja, viņa noķēra pingvīnu.
14:38
She stopped about 10 feet away from me,
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Viņa apstājās apmēram 10 pēdu attālumā no manis,
14:40
and she sat there with this penguin, the penguin's flapping, and she let's it go.
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un viņa tur sēdēja ar šo pingvīnu, pingvīns kustējās, un viņa to palaida.
14:43
The penguin swims toward me, takes off.
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Pingvīns peld man pretim, pazūd.
14:46
She grabs another one. She does this over and over.
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Viņa noķer vēl vienu. Viņa to dara atkal un atkal.
14:48
And it dawned on me that she's trying to feed me a penguin.
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Un es sapratu, ka viņa cenšas man iebarot pingvīnu.
14:50
Why else would she release these penguins at me?
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Kāpēc vēl viņa palaistu šos pingvīnus uz manu pusi?
14:54
And after she did this four or five times,
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Un pēc tam, kad viņa to bija darījusi 4 vai 5 reizes,
14:57
she swam by me with this dejected look on her face.
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viņa peldēja man garām ar šo nomākto sejas izteiksmi.
15:00
You don't want to be too anthropomorphic, but I swear that she looked at me
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Tu negribi būt par daudz antropomorfs, bet es zvēru, ka viņa paskatījās uz mani
15:03
like, "This useless predator's going to starve in my ocean."
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kā sakot, "Šis nekam nederīgais plēsējs manā okeānā nomirs badā."
15:05
(Laughter)
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(Smiekli)
15:10
So realizing I couldn't catch swimming penguins,
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Saprotot, ka es nevarētu noķert peldošus pingvīnus,
15:12
she'd get these other penguins and bring them slowly towards me,
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viņa noķēra šos citus pingvīnus un atgādāja tos lēnām pie manis,
15:14
bobbing like this, and she'd let them go.
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šādi kustoties, un viņa tos palaida vaļā.
15:16
This didn't work.
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Tas nenostrādāja.
15:18
I was laughing so hard and so emotional
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Es tik ļoti un saviļņoti smējos,
15:20
that my mask was flooding, because I was crying underwater,
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ka mana maska pieplūda, jo es zem ūdens raudāju,
15:22
just because it was so amazing.
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tikai tāpēc, ka tas bija tik apbrīnojami.
15:24
And so that didn't work.
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Un tāpēc tas nestrādāja.
15:26
So then she'd get another penguin and try this ballet-like sexy display
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Un viņa noķēra citu pingvīnu, un centās parādīt šo baletveida seksīgo izrādi,
15:28
sliding down this iceberg like this. (Laughter)
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slīdot lejup pa šo aisbergu šādi.
15:31
And she would sort of bring them over to me and offer it to me.
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Un viņa atnesa pie manis un piedāvāja.
15:33
This went on for four days.
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Tas turpinājās četras dienas.
15:35
This just didn't happen a couple of times.
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Tas tikai nenotika pāris reizes.
15:37
And then so she realized I couldn't catch live ones,
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Un tad viņa saprata, ka es nevarētu noķer dzīvus,
15:39
so she brought me dead penguins.
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tāpēc viņa atnesa man beigtus pingvīnus.
15:41
(Laughter)
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(Smiekli)
15:44
Now I've got four or five penguins floating around my head,
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Tad nu man bija 4 vai 5 pingvīni, kas peldēja man ap galvu,
15:48
and I'm just sitting there shooting away.
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un es tikai sēdēju tur skatoties.
15:52
And she would often stop and have this dejected look on her face
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Un viņa bieži apstājās un viņai bija šī nomāktā sejas izteiksme,
15:54
like, "Are you for real?"
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kā sakot, "Tu nopietni?"
15:56
Because she can't believe I can't eat this penguin.
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Jo viņa nespēja noticēt, ka nevaru apēst šo pingvīnu.
15:58
Because in her world, you're either breeding or you're eating --
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Jo viņas pasaulē tu vai nu vairojies vai barojies --
16:00
and I'm not breeding, so ...
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un es nevairojos.
16:02
(Laughter)
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(Smiekli)
16:04
And then that wasn't enough; she started to flip penguins onto my head.
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Un tas nebija pietiekami; viņa sāka sist pingvīnus pret manu galvu.
16:07
She was trying to force-feed me. She's pushing me around.
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Viņa centās piespiest mani ēst. Viņa centās mani izrīkot.
16:09
She's trying to force-feed my camera,
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Viņa centās piespiedu kārtā pabarot manu kameru,
16:11
which is every photographer's dream.
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kas ir katra fotogrāfa sapnis.
16:14
And she would get frustrated; she'd blow bubbles in my face.
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Un viņa kļuva neapmierināta, viņa pūta burbuļus man sejā.
16:17
She would, I think, let me know that I was going to starve.
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Viņa, es domāju, man teica, ka es nomiršu badā.
16:19
But yet she didn't stop.
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Bet vēl joprojām viņa neapstājās.
16:21
She would not stop trying to feed me penguins.
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Viņa nebeidza man censties iebarot pingvīnus.
16:23
And on the last day with this female
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Un pēdējā dienā ar šo mātīti,
16:25
where I thought I had pushed her too far,
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kad es domāju, ka esmu viņu piespiedis,
16:27
I got nervous because she came up to me,
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es kļuvu nervozs, jo viņa pie manis ieradās,
16:30
she rolled over on her back,
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viņa apvēlās uz muguras,
16:32
and she did this deep, guttural jackhammer sound, this gok-gok-gok-gok.
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un viņa izdeva šo dziļo rīkles āmura skaņu, šo gokgokgokgok.
16:35
And I thought, she's about to bite.
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Un es domāju, ka viņa man kodīs.
16:37
She's about to let me know she's too frustrated with me.
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Viņa lika man saprast, ka ir pārāk pievilta.
16:40
What had happened was another seal had snuck in behind me,
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Taču izrādījās, ka man aiz muguras bija aizlavījies cits ronis,
16:43
and she did that to threat display.
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un viņa to darīja, lai viņu aizbiedētu.
16:45
She chased that big seal away, went and got its penguin
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Viņa aizdzina šo lielo roni prom, aizpeldēja un saķēra pingvīnu
16:47
and brought it to me.
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un atnesa to man.
16:49
(Laughter)
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(Smiekli)
16:52
That wasn't the only seal I got in the water with.
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Tas nebija vienīgais ronis, ar ko kopā es biju ūdenī.
16:54
I got in the water with 30 other leopard seals,
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Es ūdenī biju kopā ar 30 citiem leoparda roņiem,
16:57
and I never once had a scary encounter.
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un man nekad nebija bijusi tik biedējoša tikšanās.
17:00
They are the most remarkable animals I've ever worked with,
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Tie ir visievērojamākie dzīvnieki, ar ko esmu strādājis,
17:02
and the same with polar bears.
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tāpat kā polārlāči.
17:04
And just like the polar bears,
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Un tāpat kā polārlāči,
17:06
these animals depend on an icy environment.
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arī šie dzīvnieki ir atkarīgi no aukstas vides.
17:11
I get emotional. Sorry.
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Es kļūstu emocionāls. Atvainojiet.
17:14
It's a story that lives deep in my heart,
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Tas ir stāsts, kas man ir dziļi sirdī,
17:17
and I'm proud to share this with you.
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un esmu lepns, ka varu jums to izstāstīt.
17:19
And I'm so passionate about it.
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Un es esmu tik aizrauts ar to.
17:21
Anybody want to come with me to Antarctica or the Arctic, I'll take you; let's go.
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Ja kāds vēlas kopā ar mani doties uz Antarktiku vai Arktiku, es jūs paņemšu līdzi, aiziet.
17:24
We've got to get the story out now. Thank you very much.
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Mums tagad jābeidz šis stāsts. Liels paldies jums.
17:26
(Applause)
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(Aplausi)
17:28
Thank you.
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Paldies.
17:30
(Applause)
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(Aplausi)
17:34
Thank you.
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Paldies.
17:36
(Applause)
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(Aplausi)
17:42
Thank you. Thanks very much.
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Paldies. Liels paldies.
17:44
(Applause)
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(Aplausi)
17:46
Thank you.
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Paldies.
17:48
(Applause)
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(Aplausi)
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