Matthew Childs' 9 life lessons from rock climbing

Prevodilac: Natasa Golosin Lektor: Mateja Nenadovic

It's pretty simple. There are nine, sort of, rules

Prilično je jednostavno. Ima devet pravila

that I discovered after 35 years of rock climbing.

koja sam otkrio nakon 35 godina sportskog penjanja.

Most of them are pretty basic.

Većina njih je prilično jednostavna.

Number one: don't let go --

Pravilo broj jedan: ne puštajte --

very sure success method.

veoma pouzdan metod za uspeh.

But really, truly -- often you think about

Ali zapravo -- često pomislite na

letting go way before your body does.

puštanje čak i pre nego što vaše telo to pomisli.

So hang in there,

Tako da, držite se,

and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.

i naići će neka čudna rešenja.

Number two: hesitation is bad.

Broj dva: oklevanje je loše.

This is a friction climb, up in Tuolumne Meadows,

Ovo je penjanje, gore u "Tuolomni Medous"-u,

in the Yosemite high country.

u okrugu "Josemiti".

Friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges.

Penjanje uz trenje nema oštrih rubova.

You're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock.

Penjete se uz mala ulegnuća i izbočine u steni.

The most friction you have is when you first put your hand

Trenje je najveće tek kada se prvi put uhvatite

or your foot on the rock.

ili dodirnete nogom stenu.

And then from that point on, you're basically falling.

Od tog momenta praktično padate.

So momentum is good. Don't stop.

Dakle, impuls je dobar. Nemojte stajati.

Rule number three: have a plan.

Pravilo broj tri: imajte plan.

This is a climb called the Naked Edge,

Ova stena se zove "Gola litica"

in El Dorado Canyon, outside of Boulder.

u kanjonu je El Dorado, kod Buldera.

This climber is on the last pitch of it.

Ovaj penjač je gotovo na vrhu.

He's actually right about where I fell.

Baš tamo gde sam ja pao.

There is about 1,000 feet of air below him.

Ispod njega je oko tri stotine metara vazduha.

And all the hard pitches are actually below him.

Sve kritične tačke su zapravo ispod njega.

Often what happens is

Često se desi

you're planning so hard for like,

da detaljno planirate,

"How do I get through the hardest part? How do I get through the hardest part?"

"Kako ću proći najtežu deonicu? Kako ću proći najtežu deonicu?"

And then what happens?

I šta se onda dogodi?

You get to the last pitch. It's easy.

Stignete do poslednje tačke. Lako je.

And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it.

I potpuno izgorite. Ne radite to.

You have to plan ahead to get to the top.

Morate unapred planirati da stignete do vrha.

But you also can't forget that each individual move

Ali takođe ne možete zaboraviti na svaki pojedinačni pokret

you have to be able to complete.

koji morate napraviti da biste stigli do kraja.

This is a climb called the Dike Route,

Ovo je uspon "Dajk rut"

on Pywjack Dome, up in the Yosemite high country.

na Pivdžek doumu, gore u Josemiti okrugu.

The interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard.

Interesantna stvar u vezi sa ovim usponom je da nije težak.

But if you're the leader on it,

Ali ako ste lider na njemu

at the hardest move, you're looking at about 100 foot fall,

na najtežem delu vidite pad od oko 30 metara,

onto some low angle slabs.

na stene pod uglom manjim od 90 stepeni.

So you've got to focus.

Morate se usredsrediti.

You don't want to stop in the middle like

Ne želite da stanete na pola.

Coleridge's Kubla Kahn.

kao Koleridž Kubla Kan.

You've got to keep going.

Morate da nastavite.

Rule number five: know how to rest.

Pravilo broj pet: znati odmoriti se.

It's amazing. The best climbers

Neverovatno je. Najbolji penjači

are the ones that in the most extreme situations

su oni koji u najekstremnijim situacijama

can get their bodies into some position

mogu dovesti svoje telo u položaj

where they can rest,

u kom mogu da se odmore

regroup, calm themselves, focus,

pregrupišu, smire, usredsrede

and keep going.

i nastave.

This is a climb in the Needles, again in California.

Postoji uspon u Nidlsu, opet u Kaliforniji.

Fear really sucks because what it means is

Strah ne valja jer znači

you're not focusing on what you're doing.

da niste udredsređeni na to što radite.

You're focusing on the consequences of

Već se fokusirate na posledice

failing at what you're doing

mogućeg neuspeha,

because any given move should require

jer svaki sledeći pokret zahteva

all your concentration and thought processes

svu vašu koncentraciju i misaone procese

to execute it effectively.

kako biste završili sa uspehom.

One of the things in climbing is, most people

Jedna od stvari kod penjanje je da većina ljudi

sort of take it straight on. And they follow the most obvious solution.

gleda na to ravno. A onda sledi očigledno rešenje.

This is the Devils Tower in Wyoming,

Ovo je Đavolji toranj u Vajomingu,

which is a columnar basalt formation

stene su nastale hlađenjem lave,

that most of you probably know from "Close Encounters."

većina vas to zna iz "Bliskih susreta".

With this, typically crack climbers

Ovde bi tipični penjači koji koriste pukotine

would put their hands in and their toes in

uglavili svoje ruke i nožne prste

and just start climbing.

i počeli se penjati.

The cracks are too small to get your toes into

Pukotine su isuviše male za to

so the only way to climb is using your fingertips

pa je jedini način za penjanje korišćenje vrhova prstiju

in the cracks,

u pukotinama

and using opposing pressure

i korišćenje pritiska koji se suprotstavlja

and forcing yourself up.

i teranje sebe na gore.

Rule number eight: strength doesn't always equal success.

Pravilo osam: snaga ne znači uvek uspeh.

In the 35 years I've been a climbing guide

35 godina sam bio penjač - vodič

and taught on indoor walls, and stuff like that,

i podučavao na zidovima u zatvorenom prostoru i tome slično.

the most important thing I've learned

Najvažnija stvar koju sam naučio

was, guys will always try to do pull-ups.

bila je da će momci uvek pokušati da se penju rukama, zgibovima.

Beginning guys, it's like, they thrash, they thrash,

Početnici se tako popnu

they get 15 feet up --

nekih pet metara

and they can do about 15 pull-ups right --

oni mogu uraditi nekih 15 zgibova --

And then they just flame out.

I onda jednostavno izgore.

Women are much more in balance

Žene su mnogo više balansirane

because they don't have that idea

jer nemaju tu ideju

that they're going to be able to do 100 pull-ups.

da su sposobne da urade 100 zgibova.

They think about how to get the weight over their feet

Misle na to kako da prebace težinu sa nogu

because it's sort of natural -- they carry you all day long.

i to je prirodno - one vas nose celog dana.

So balance is really critical,

Tako da je ravnoteža veoma kritična,

and keeping your weight on your feet,

kao i držanje težine na stopalima

which is your strongest muscle.

koja su vaš najsnažniji mišić.

And of course there is rule number nine.

Tu je, naravno i pravilo devet.

I came up with rule number nine after

Smislio sam ovo pravilo

I actually didn't plan for a fall,

jer ja zapravo nisam planirao da padnem,

and went about 40 feet and cracked a rib.

i da padam 12 metara i polomim rebro.

Once you get to that point where you know it's going to happen,

Kada dođe momenat u kom shvatite da će se to desiti,

you need to start thinking about how you're going to let go

morate da počnete da mislite kako ćete se pusiti.

because that is the critical piece

jer je to kritičan momenat

of not getting hurt --

u odbrani od povrede -

how you're going to fall onto the rope,

kako ćete pasti na konopac

or if you're climbing without a rope,

ili ako se penjete bez konopca

fall to a place where you can actually control the fall.

kako ćete pasti negde gde zapravo možete kontrolisati pad.

So don't hang on till the bitter end.

Ne odustanite sve do gorkog kraja.

Thank you very much.

Hvala puno.

(Applause)

(Aplauz)