Matthew Childs' 9 life lessons from rock climbing

Prevoditelj: Romana Perković Recezent: Mislav Ante Omazić - EFZG

It's pretty simple. There are nine, sort of, rules

Vrlo je jednostavno. Postoji devet pravila

that I discovered after 35 years of rock climbing.

koje sam otkrio nakon 35 godina penjanja po stijenama.

Most of them are pretty basic.

Većina ih je prilično osnovna.

Number one: don't let go --

Broj jedan: Ne puštajte –

very sure success method.

vrlo sigurna metoda uspjeha.

But really, truly -- often you think about

Ali zaista -- često vmislite o tome kako ćete se

letting go way before your body does.

pustiti daleko prije nego vaše tijelo to osjeti.

So hang in there,

Stoga, držite se

and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.

i naići ćete na neka čudna rješenja.

Number two: hesitation is bad.

Broj dva: Oklijevanje je loše.

This is a friction climb, up in Tuolumne Meadows,

Ovo je penjanje uz trenje, gore u Tuolumne Meadows,

in the Yosemite high country.

u okružju Yosemite.

Friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges.

Penjanje uz trenje nema nikakvih oštrih rubova.

You're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock.

Penjete se uz male ulegnuča i izbočine u stijeni.

The most friction you have is when you first put your hand

Najveću frikcijuimate kada prvi put stavite ruku

or your foot on the rock.

ili nogu na stijenu.

And then from that point on, you're basically falling.

I poslije tog trenutka, vi zapravo padate.

So momentum is good. Don't stop.

Momentum je dobar. Nemojte stajati.

Rule number three: have a plan.

Pravilo broj tri: Imajte plan.

This is a climb called the Naked Edge,

Ovo je stijena zvana Naked Edge

in El Dorado Canyon, outside of Boulder.

u kanjonu El Dorado, izvan Bouldera.

This climber is on the last pitch of it.

Ovaj penjač je skoro pri vrhu.

He's actually right about where I fell.

On je zapravo baš tamo gdje sam ja pao.

There is about 1,000 feet of air below him.

Oko 305 metara zraka je ispod njega.

And all the hard pitches are actually below him.

I sve teške parcele su zapravo ispod njega.

Often what happens is

Često se dogodi

you're planning so hard for like,

da planirate

"How do I get through the hardest part? How do I get through the hardest part?"

"Kako ću proći najteži dio? Kako ću proći najteži dio?"

And then what happens?

I što se tada dogodi?

You get to the last pitch. It's easy.

Dođete do zadnje parcele. Lako je.

And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it.

I potpuno izgorite. Nemojte to raditi.

You have to plan ahead to get to the top.

Morate unaprijed planirati kako doći do vrha.

But you also can't forget that each individual move

Morate zapamtiti kako svaki pojedinačni pokret

you have to be able to complete.

morate biti u mogućnosti završiti.

This is a climb called the Dike Route,

Ovo je uspon Dike Route

on Pywjack Dome, up in the Yosemite high country.

na Peyrat Dome, u okružju Yosemite.

The interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard.

Zanimljiva stvar ovog uspona jest da nije tako težak.

But if you're the leader on it,

Ali ako ste vođa,

at the hardest move, you're looking at about 100 foot fall,

na najtežem dijelu, gledate pad od 30 metara

onto some low angle slabs.

na neke ploče niskog ugla.

So you've got to focus.

Morate se usredotočiti.

You don't want to stop in the middle like

Ne želite se zaustaviti na sredini

Coleridge's Kubla Kahn.

kao što je Coleridge Kubla Kahn.

You've got to keep going.

Morate nastaviti.

Rule number five: know how to rest.

Pravilo broj pet: Znajte se odmoriti.

It's amazing. The best climbers

Zanimljivo. Najbolji penjači

are the ones that in the most extreme situations

su oni koji u najekstremnijim situacijama

can get their bodies into some position

mogu dovesti njihova tijela u položaj

where they can rest,

u kojem se mogu odmoriti,

regroup, calm themselves, focus,

pregrupirati, smiriti, fokusirati,

and keep going.

i krenuti dalje.

This is a climb in the Needles, again in California.

Ovo je uspon u Needles, opet u Kaliforniji.

Fear really sucks because what it means is

Strah je zbilja loš jer to znači kako

you're not focusing on what you're doing.

niste usredotočeni na ono što radite.

You're focusing on the consequences of

Usredotočujete se na posljedice

failing at what you're doing

ako ne uspijete ono što radite,

because any given move should require

jer svaki sljedeći pokret zahtjeva

all your concentration and thought processes

svu vašu koncentraciju i misaone procese

to execute it effectively.

kako biste to uspješno završili.

One of the things in climbing is, most people

Jedna od stvari u penjanju jest, većina ljudi

sort of take it straight on. And they follow the most obvious solution.

gleda na to samo ravno. I oni slijede najočitije rješenje.

This is the Devils Tower in Wyoming,

Ovo je Devils Tower u Wyomingu,

which is a columnar basalt formation

stijene nastale hlađenjem lave,

that most of you probably know from "Close Encounters."

koje većina zna iz "Bliskih susreta".

With this, typically crack climbers

Tipični penjači će

would put their hands in and their toes in

staviti ruke i prste u pukotine i

and just start climbing.

samo se početi penjati.

The cracks are too small to get your toes into

Pukotine su premale kako biste smjestili prste u njih,

so the only way to climb is using your fingertips

jedini način da se popnete je koristeći

in the cracks,

vrhove prstiju,

and using opposing pressure

i koristeći suprotni pritisak,

and forcing yourself up.

gurajući sebe prema gore.

Rule number eight: strength doesn't always equal success.

Pravilo broj osam: Snaga nije uvijek istoznačna uspjehu.

In the 35 years I've been a climbing guide

U 35 godina koliko sam vodič penjanja

and taught on indoor walls, and stuff like that,

i poučavao na unutarnjim zidovima, i sličnim stvarima,

the most important thing I've learned

najvažnija stvar koju sam naučio,

was, guys will always try to do pull-ups.

muškarci će uvijek pokušati raditi zgibove.

Beginning guys, it's like, they thrash, they thrash,

Početnici se tako popnu

they get 15 feet up --

kojih 5 metara.

and they can do about 15 pull-ups right --

A oni mogu napraviti oko 15 zgibova, zar ne?

And then they just flame out.

I onda jednostavno izgore.

Women are much more in balance

Žene su uravnoteženije

because they don't have that idea

jer nemaju tu ideju

that they're going to be able to do 100 pull-ups.

kako mogu napraviti 100 zgibova.

They think about how to get the weight over their feet

Razmišljaju kako prenijeti težinu sa nogu

because it's sort of natural -- they carry you all day long.

jer je to prirodno. One te nose cijeli dan.

So balance is really critical,

Dakle, ravnoteža je kritična,

and keeping your weight on your feet,

i održavanje težine na nogama,

which is your strongest muscle.

koje su vaš najjači mišić.

And of course there is rule number nine.

Naravno, pravilo broj devet.

I came up with rule number nine after

Naišao sam na to pravilo nakon što,

I actually didn't plan for a fall,

zapravo nisam planirao pasti,

and went about 40 feet and cracked a rib.

a pao sam s oko 12 metara i slomio rebro.

Once you get to that point where you know it's going to happen,

Kada dođete do tog trenutka kada znate kako će se to dogoditi,

you need to start thinking about how you're going to let go

morate početi razmišljati kako ćete se pustiti

because that is the critical piece

jer je to kritično

of not getting hurt --

da nebiste stradali –

how you're going to fall onto the rope,

kako ćete pasti uz uže ili

or if you're climbing without a rope,

ako se penjete bez užeta,

fall to a place where you can actually control the fall.

padnite na mjesto gdje možete kontrolirati pad.

So don't hang on till the bitter end.

Ne držite se do samog kraja.

Thank you very much.

Hvala vam puno.

(Applause)

(Pljesak)