Matthew Childs' 9 life lessons from rock climbing

82,758 views ใƒป 2009-04-17

TED


ืื ื ืœื—ืฅ ืคืขืžื™ื™ื ืขืœ ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื‘ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ืœืžื˜ื” ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ืคืขื™ืœ ืืช ื”ืกืจื˜ื•ืŸ.

ืžืชืจื’ื: Yifat Adler ืžื‘ืงืจ: Sigal Tifferet
00:12
It's pretty simple. There are nine, sort of, rules
0
12160
3000
ื”ืขื ื™ื™ืŸ ืคืฉื•ื˜ ืžืื•ื“. ื™ืฉื ื ืชืฉืขื” ื›ืœืœื™ื
00:15
that I discovered after 35 years of rock climbing.
1
15160
4000
ืฉื’ื™ืœื™ืชื™ ืื—ืจื™ 35 ืฉื ื™ื ืฉืœ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืฆื•ืงื™ื.
00:19
Most of them are pretty basic.
2
19160
4000
ืจื•ื‘ื ื‘ืกื™ืกื™ื™ื ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ.
00:23
Number one: don't let go --
3
23160
3000
ื—ื•ืง ืจืืฉื•ืŸ: ืืœ ืชืจืคื• --
00:26
very sure success method.
4
26160
2000
ื”ืฆืœื—ื” ืžืกื—ืจืจืช ืžื•ื‘ื˜ื—ืช.
00:28
But really, truly -- often you think about
5
28160
3000
ืื‘ืœ ื‘ืจืฆื™ื ื•ืช -- ืœืขื™ืชื™ื ืงืจื•ื‘ื•ืช ืืชื ื—ื•ืฉื‘ื™ื
00:31
letting go way before your body does.
6
31160
2000
ืœื”ืจืคื•ืช ืืช ืื—ื™ื–ืชื›ื ื”ืจื‘ื” ืœืคื ื™ ืฉื’ื•ืคื›ื ื“ื•ืจืฉ ื–ืืช.
00:33
So hang in there,
7
33160
2000
ืื– ืชื—ื–ื™ืงื• ืžืขืžื“,
00:35
and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.
8
35160
4000
ื•ืชื•ื›ืœื• ืœื”ื’ื™ืข ืœืคืชืจื•ื ื•ืช ื™ื—ื•ื“ื™ื™ื ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ.
00:39
Number two: hesitation is bad.
9
39160
2000
ื—ื•ืง ืฉื ื™: ืืœ ืชื”ืกืกื•.
00:41
This is a friction climb, up in Tuolumne Meadows,
10
41160
3000
ื–ื”ื• ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื—ื™ื›ื•ืš ื‘ื˜ื•ืืœืžื™ ืžื“ื•ืื•ื–
00:44
in the Yosemite high country.
11
44160
2000
ื‘ืื™ื–ื•ืจ ื”ื’ื‘ื•ื” ืฉืœ ื™ื•ืกืžื™ื˜ื™.
00:46
Friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges.
12
46160
4000
ื‘ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื—ื™ื›ื•ืš ืื™ืŸ ืฉื™ืคื•ืขื™ื ื—ื™ื•ื‘ื™ื™ื,
00:50
You're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock.
13
50160
4000
ืžื˜ืคืกื™ื ื‘ืขื–ืจืช ื—ืจื™ืฆื™ื ื•ื‘ืœื™ื˜ื•ืช ืงื˜ื ื™ื ื‘ืกืœืข.
00:54
The most friction you have is when you first put your hand
14
54160
4000
ื”ื—ื™ื›ื•ืš ื”ืจื‘ ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ ืžืชืงื‘ืœ ื‘ืจื’ืข ื‘ื• ืืชื ืžื ื™ื—ื™ื ืืช ื™ื“ื›ื
00:58
or your foot on the rock.
15
58160
3000
ืื• ืืช ื›ืฃ ืจื’ืœื›ื ืขืœ ื”ืกืœืข.
01:01
And then from that point on, you're basically falling.
16
61160
4000
ืžืื•ืชื• ืจื’ืข ื•ื”ืœืื”, ืืชื ืคืฉื•ื˜ ื ื•ืคืœื™ื.
01:05
So momentum is good. Don't stop.
17
65160
3000
ืœื›ืŸ, ื”ืžื•ืžื ื˜ื•ื ื—ื™ื•ื ื™. ืืœ ืชืขืฆืจื•.
01:08
Rule number three: have a plan.
18
68160
2000
ื—ื•ืง ืฉืœื™ืฉื™: ืชื›ื ื ื•.
01:10
This is a climb called the Naked Edge,
19
70160
2000
ื–ื”ื• ืžืกืœื•ืœ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื”ื ืงืจื ื”"ื ื™ื™ืงื“ ืื“ื’'"
01:12
in El Dorado Canyon, outside of Boulder.
20
72160
2000
ื‘ืงื ื™ื•ืŸ ืืœ ื“ื•ืจื“ื•, ืœื ืจื—ื•ืง ืžื‘ื•ืœื“ืจ.
01:14
This climber is on the last pitch of it.
21
74160
3000
ืžื˜ืคืก ื–ื” ื ืžืฆื ื‘ืžืงื˜ืข ื”ืื—ืจื•ืŸ.
01:17
He's actually right about where I fell.
22
77160
2000
ื–ื”ื• ื”ืžืงื•ื ื‘ื• ื ืคืœืชื™.
01:19
There is about 1,000 feet of air below him.
23
79160
3000
ื™ืฉ ื›-300 ืžื˜ืจ ืฉืœ ืื•ื•ื™ืจ ืžืชื—ืชื™ื•.
01:22
And all the hard pitches are actually below him.
24
82160
3000
ื”ื•ื ื›ื‘ืจ ืขื‘ืจ ืืช ื›ืœ ื”ืžืงื˜ืขื™ื ื”ืงืฉื™ื.
01:25
Often what happens is
25
85160
2000
ืœืขื™ืชื™ื ืงืจื•ื‘ื•ืช
01:27
you're planning so hard for like,
26
87160
2000
ืžืชืืžืฆื™ื ืœืชื›ื ืŸ ื“ื‘ืจื™ื ื›ืžื•,
01:29
"How do I get through the hardest part? How do I get through the hardest part?"
27
89160
3000
"ืื™ืš ืื ื™ ืขื•ื‘ืจ ืืช ื”ื—ืœืง ื”ื›ื™ ืงืฉื”?"
01:32
And then what happens?
28
92160
2000
ื•ืื–, ืžื” ืงื•ืจื”?
01:34
You get to the last pitch. It's easy.
29
94160
2000
ืืชื ืžื’ื™ืขื™ื ืœืฉื™ืคื•ืข ื”ืื—ืจื•ืŸ. ื”ื•ื ืงืœ.
01:36
And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it.
30
96160
3000
ื•ืืชื ืœื’ืžืจื™ ืžื—ื•ืกืœื™ื. ืืœ ืชืขืฉื• ื–ืืช.
01:39
You have to plan ahead to get to the top.
31
99160
3000
ืฆืจื™ืš ืœืชื›ื ืŸ ืžืจืืฉ ืขื“ ืœืคืกื’ื”.
01:42
But you also can't forget that each individual move
32
102160
3000
ืื‘ืœ ืืกื•ืจ ืœืฉื›ื•ื— ืฉืฆืจื™ืš ืœื”ืฉืœื™ื
01:45
you have to be able to complete.
33
105160
2000
ื›ืœ ืฆืขื“ ื•ืฆืขื“.
01:47
This is a climb called the Dike Route,
34
107160
2000
ื–ื”ื• ืžืกืœื•ืœ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืฉื ืงืจื ื”"ื“ื™ื™ืง ืจื•ื˜"
01:49
on Pywjack Dome, up in the Yosemite high country.
35
109160
4000
ื‘ืคื™ืจื˜ ื“ื•ื ื‘ืื™ื–ื•ืจ ื”ื’ื‘ื•ื” ืฉืœ ื™ื•ืกืžื™ื˜ื™.
01:53
The interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard.
36
113160
3000
ื”ืžืกืœื•ืœ ืœื ื›ืœ ื›ืš ืงืฉื”.
01:56
But if you're the leader on it,
37
116160
2000
ืื‘ืœ ืื ืืชื ื”ืžื•ื‘ื™ืœื™ื,
01:58
at the hardest move, you're looking at about 100 foot fall,
38
118160
4000
ื‘ืงื˜ืข ื”ื›ื™ ืงืฉื”, ืืชื ืจื•ืื™ื ืฉืืชื ืขืœื•ืœื™ื ืœื™ืคื•ืœ 30 ืžื˜ืจ
02:02
onto some low angle slabs.
39
122160
2000
ืขืœ ืื‘ื ื™ื ืžื—ื•ื“ื“ื•ืช.
02:04
So you've got to focus.
40
124160
2000
ืื– ื—ื™ื™ื‘ื™ื ืœื”ืชืจื›ื–.
02:06
You don't want to stop in the middle like
41
126160
3000
ืœื ื”ื™ื™ืชื ืจื•ืฆื™ื ืœื”ืชืงืข ื‘ืืžืฆืข
02:09
Coleridge's Kubla Kahn.
42
129160
2000
ื›ืžื• ืงื•ื‘ืœืื™ ื—ืืŸ ืฉืœ ืงื•ืœืจื™ื“ื’'.
02:11
You've got to keep going.
43
131160
2000
ื—ื™ื™ื‘ื™ื ืœื”ืžืฉื™ืš ื”ืœืื”.
02:13
Rule number five: know how to rest.
44
133160
2000
ื—ื•ืง ื—ืžื™ืฉื™: ืฆืจื™ืš ืœื“ืขืช ืื™ืš ืœื ื•ื—.
02:15
It's amazing. The best climbers
45
135160
2000
ื–ื” ืžื“ื”ื™ื. ื”ืžื˜ืคืกื™ื ื”ื˜ื•ื‘ื™ื ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ
02:17
are the ones that in the most extreme situations
46
137160
3000
ื”ื ืืœื” ืฉืžืกื•ื’ืœื™ื ื‘ืžืฆื‘ื™ื ื”ืงื™ืฆื•ื ื™ื™ื ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ
02:20
can get their bodies into some position
47
140160
2000
ืœืžืฆื•ื ืœื’ื•ืคื ืชื ื•ื—ื”
02:22
where they can rest,
48
142160
2000
ื‘ื” ื”ื ื™ื›ื•ืœื™ื ืœื ื•ื—,
02:24
regroup, calm themselves, focus,
49
144160
3000
ืœืืกื•ืฃ ืืช ืขืฆืžื ืžื—ื“ืฉ, ืœื”ืจื’ื™ืข ืืช ืขืฆืžื, ืœื”ืชืžืงื“,
02:27
and keep going.
50
147160
4000
ื•ืœื”ืžืฉื™ืš ื”ืœืื”.
02:31
This is a climb in the Needles, again in California.
51
151160
2000
ื–ื”ื• ืžืกืœื•ืœ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ื‘ื ื™ื“ืœืก, ืงืœื™ืคื•ืจื ื™ื”.
02:33
Fear really sucks because what it means is
52
153160
2000
ื›ืฉืืชื ืžืคื—ื“ื™ื ืืชื ื‘ืฆืจื”.
02:35
you're not focusing on what you're doing.
53
155160
3000
ื›ื™ ืืชื ืœื ืžืชืžืงื“ื™ื ื‘ืžื” ืฉืืชื ืขื•ืฉื™ื
02:38
You're focusing on the consequences of
54
158160
2000
ืืœื ื‘ืชื•ืฆืื•ืช
02:40
failing at what you're doing
55
160160
3000
ืฉืœ ื›ื™ืฉืœื•ืŸ ืžื” ืฉืืชื ืขื•ืฉื™ื.
02:43
because any given move should require
56
163160
2000
ื›ืœ ืžื”ืœืš ื“ื•ืจืฉ
02:45
all your concentration and thought processes
57
165160
5000
ืืช ืžืœื•ื ืชืฉื•ืžืช ืœื™ื‘ื›ื ื•ืžื—ืฉื‘ื•ืชื™ื›ื
02:50
to execute it effectively.
58
170160
2000
ื›ื“ื™ ืœื‘ืฆืขื• ื‘ื™ืขื™ืœื•ืช.
02:52
One of the things in climbing is, most people
59
172160
3000
ื”ื’ื™ืฉื” ืฉืœ ืจื•ื‘ ื”ืื ืฉื™ื ืœื˜ื™ืคื•ืก
02:55
sort of take it straight on. And they follow the most obvious solution.
60
175160
4000
ื”ื™ื ื™ืฉื™ืจื”. ื”ื ืžืืžืฆื™ื ืืช ื”ืคืชืจื•ืŸ ื”ืจืืฉื•ืŸ ืฉืขื•ืœื” ื‘ื“ืขืชื.
02:59
This is the Devils Tower in Wyoming,
61
179160
3000
ื–ื”ื• ื”"ื“ื‘ื™ืœืก ื˜ืื•ืจ" ื‘ื•ื™ื•ืžื™ื ื’.
03:02
which is a columnar basalt formation
62
182160
3000
ื–ื•ื”ื™ ืชืฆื•ืจื” ืฉืœ ืขืžื•ื“ ื‘ื–ืœืช
03:05
that most of you probably know from "Close Encounters."
63
185160
3000
ืฉืจื•ื‘ื›ื ืžื›ื™ืจื™ื ืž"ืžืคื’ืฉื™ื ืžื”ืกื•ื’ ื”ืฉืœื™ืฉื™."
03:08
With this, typically crack climbers
64
188160
2000
ืžื˜ืคืกื™ ื—ืจื™ืฆื™ื ื ื•ื”ื’ื™ื
03:10
would put their hands in and their toes in
65
190160
2000
ืœื”ื ื™ื— ืืช ื™ื“ื™ื”ื ื•ื—ืจื˜ื•ื ื ืขืœื™ื”ื ื‘ืชื•ืš ื”ื—ืจื™ืฅ
03:12
and just start climbing.
66
192160
2000
ื•ืœื”ืชื—ื™ืœ ืœื˜ืคืก.
03:14
The cracks are too small to get your toes into
67
194160
3000
ืื‘ืœ ื”ื—ืจื™ืฆื™ื ืงื˜ื ื™ื ืžื“ื™ ืขื‘ื•ืจ ื—ืจื˜ื•ื ื”ื ืขืœ
03:17
so the only way to climb is using your fingertips
68
197160
3000
ื•ืœื›ืŸ ื”ืืคืฉืจื•ืช ื”ื™ื—ื™ื“ื” ื”ื™ื ืœื”ื›ื ื™ืก ืืช ืงืฆื•ืช ื”ืืฆื‘ืขื•ืช
03:20
in the cracks,
69
200160
2000
ืœืชื•ืš ื”ื—ืจื™ืฆื™ื,
03:22
and using opposing pressure
70
202160
2000
ื•ืœื”ืฉืชืžืฉ ื‘ืœื—ืฅ ื ื’ื“ื™
03:24
and forcing yourself up.
71
204160
3000
ื›ื“ื™ ืœืขืœื•ืช.
03:27
Rule number eight: strength doesn't always equal success.
72
207160
3000
ื—ื•ืง ืฉืžื™ื ื™: ื›ื•ื— ืœื ื‘ื”ื›ืจื— ืžื ื‘ื ื”ืฆืœื—ื”.
03:30
In the 35 years I've been a climbing guide
73
210160
2000
ื‘ืžืฉืš 35 ื”ืฉื ื™ื ื‘ื”ืŸ ืฉื™ืžืฉืชื™ ื›ืžื“ืจื™ืš ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก
03:32
and taught on indoor walls, and stuff like that,
74
212160
2000
ื•ืœื™ืžื“ืชื™ ื˜ื™ืคื•ืก ืขืœ ืงื™ืจื•ืช,
03:34
the most important thing I've learned
75
214160
2000
ื”ื“ื‘ืจ ื”ื—ืฉื•ื‘ ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ ืฉืœืžื“ืชื™ ื”ื•ื,
03:36
was, guys will always try to do pull-ups.
76
216160
3000
ืฉื’ื‘ืจื™ื ืชืžื™ื“ ื™ื ืกื• ืœื‘ืฆืข ืขืœื™ื•ืช ืžืชื—.
03:39
Beginning guys, it's like, they thrash, they thrash,
77
219160
2000
ืžืชื—ื™ืœื™ื ื ื•ื˜ื™ื ืœื”ืื‘ืง ื•ืœื”ืื‘ืง,
03:41
they get 15 feet up --
78
221160
2000
ื•ืžืฆืœื™ื—ื™ื ืœื˜ืคืก 5 ืžื˜ืจื™ื (15 ืจื’ืœ).
03:43
and they can do about 15 pull-ups right --
79
223160
2000
ื”ื ืžืกื•ื’ืœื™ื ืœื‘ืฆืข ื›-15 ืขืœื™ื•ืช ืžืชื—. ื ื›ื•ืŸ?
03:45
And then they just flame out.
80
225160
2000
ื•ืื– ื”ื ืžื—ื•ืกืœื™ื.
03:47
Women are much more in balance
81
227160
2000
ื ืฉื™ื ื”ืจื‘ื” ื™ื•ืชืจ ืžืื•ื–ื ื•ืช,
03:49
because they don't have that idea
82
229160
3000
ื›ื™ ื”ืŸ ืคื•ืกืœื•ืช ืžืจืืฉ ืืช ื”ืจืขื™ื•ืŸ
03:52
that they're going to be able to do 100 pull-ups.
83
232160
2000
ืฉื”ืŸ ื™ื”ื™ื• ืžืกื•ื’ืœื•ืช ืœื‘ืฆืข 100 ืขืœื™ื•ืช ืžืชื—.
03:54
They think about how to get the weight over their feet
84
234160
3000
ื”ืŸ ืžืชื›ื ื ื•ืช ืื™ืš ืœืฉืืช ืืช ื”ืžืฉืงืœ ืขืœ ื”ืจื’ืœื™ื™ื.
03:57
because it's sort of natural -- they carry you all day long.
85
237160
3000
ื–ื” ื˜ื‘ืขื™. ื”ืจื’ืœื™ื™ื ื ื•ืฉืื•ืช ืื•ืชื ื• ืœืื•ืจืš ื›ืœ ื”ื™ื•ื.
04:00
So balance is really critical,
86
240160
2000
ืื ื›ืš, ื—ื™ื•ื ื™ ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ ืœืฉืžื•ืจ ืขืœ ืื™ื–ื•ืŸ,
04:02
and keeping your weight on your feet,
87
242160
2000
ื•ืœืฉืืช ืืช ื”ืžืฉืงืœ ืขืœ ื”ืจื’ืœื™ื™ื,
04:04
which is your strongest muscle.
88
244160
2000
ืฉื”ืŸ ื”ืฉืจื™ืจ ื”ื—ื–ืง ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ.
04:06
And of course there is rule number nine.
89
246160
2000
ื•ื”ื—ื•ืง ื”ืชืฉื™ืขื™, ื›ืžื•ื‘ืŸ.
04:08
I came up with rule number nine after
90
248160
2000
ื’ื™ืœื™ืชื™ ืืช ื”ื—ื•ืง ื”ืชืฉื™ืขื™
04:10
I actually didn't plan for a fall,
91
250160
2000
ื›ืฉืœื ื”ืชื›ื•ื ื ืชื™ ืœื ืคื™ืœื”,
04:12
and went about 40 feet and cracked a rib.
92
252160
3000
ื ืคืœืชื™ ื›-15 ืžื˜ืจ ื•ืฉื‘ืจืชื™ ืฆืœืข.
04:15
Once you get to that point where you know it's going to happen,
93
255160
3000
ื›ืฉืžื’ื™ืขื™ื ืœื ืงื•ื“ื” ื‘ื” ื™ื•ื“ืขื™ื ืฉื–ื” ืขื•ืžื“ ืœืงืจื•ืช,
04:18
you need to start thinking about how you're going to let go
94
258160
3000
ืฆืจื™ืš ืœื”ืชื—ื™ืœ ืœื—ืฉื•ื‘ ืื™ืš ืœื”ืจืคื•ืช.
04:21
because that is the critical piece
95
261160
3000
ื–ื” ื—ืฉื•ื‘ ื‘ื™ื•ืชืจ
04:24
of not getting hurt --
96
264160
2000
ื›ื“ื™ ืœืžื ื•ืข ืคื’ื™ืขื•ืช --
04:26
how you're going to fall onto the rope,
97
266160
4000
ืื™ืš ืœื™ืคื•ืœ ืืœ ื”ื—ื‘ืœ,
04:30
or if you're climbing without a rope,
98
270160
2000
ื•ืื ืžื˜ืคืกื™ื ื‘ืœื™ ื—ื‘ืœ,
04:32
fall to a place where you can actually control the fall.
99
272160
4000
ืื™ืš ืœื™ืคื•ืœ ืœืžืงื•ื ื‘ื• ืืคืฉืจ ืœืฉืœื•ื˜ ืขืœ ื”ื ืคื™ืœื”.
04:36
So don't hang on till the bitter end.
100
276160
3000
ืื– ืืœ ืชืžืฉื™ื›ื• ืœื”ืื—ื– ืขื“ ื”ืกื•ืฃ ื”ืžืจ.
04:39
Thank you very much.
101
279160
2000
ืชื•ื“ื” ืจื‘ื” ืœื›ื.
04:41
(Applause)
102
281160
2000
[ืžื—ื™ืื•ืช ื›ืคื™ื™ื]
ืขืœ ืืชืจ ื–ื”

ืืชืจ ื–ื” ื™ืฆื™ื’ ื‘ืคื ื™ื›ื ืกืจื˜ื•ื ื™ YouTube ื”ืžื•ืขื™ืœื™ื ืœืœื™ืžื•ื“ ืื ื’ืœื™ืช. ืชื•ื›ืœื• ืœืจืื•ืช ืฉื™ืขื•ืจื™ ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ื”ืžื•ืขื‘ืจื™ื ืขืœ ื™ื“ื™ ืžื•ืจื™ื ืžื”ืฉื•ืจื” ื”ืจืืฉื•ื ื” ืžืจื—ื‘ื™ ื”ืขื•ืœื. ืœื—ืฅ ืคืขืžื™ื™ื ืขืœ ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื‘ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ื”ืžื•ืฆื’ื•ืช ื‘ื›ืœ ื“ืฃ ื•ื™ื“ืื• ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ืคืขื™ืœ ืืช ื”ืกืจื˜ื•ืŸ ืžืฉื. ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื’ื•ืœืœื•ืช ื‘ืกื ื›ืจื•ืŸ ืขื ื”ืคืขืœืช ื”ื•ื•ื™ื“ืื•. ืื ื™ืฉ ืœืš ื”ืขืจื•ืช ืื• ื‘ืงืฉื•ืช, ืื ื ืฆื•ืจ ืื™ืชื ื• ืงืฉืจ ื‘ืืžืฆืขื•ืช ื˜ื•ืคืก ื™ืฆื™ืจืช ืงืฉืจ ื–ื”.

https://forms.gle/WvT1wiN1qDtmnspy7