Matthew Childs' 9 life lessons from rock climbing

翻译人员: Halei Liu 校对人员: Yvonne Fu

It's pretty simple. There are nine, sort of, rules

这十分简单。这有9条，大概九条，规则

that I discovered after 35 years of rock climbing.

这都是我从35年来攀岩的经验中得来的。

Most of them are pretty basic.

他们的大多数都十分基础。

Number one: don't let go --

第一条：不要放弃 --

very sure success method.

这是成功的不二法则。

But really, truly -- often you think about

但是真的，事实是 -- 你经常会

letting go way before your body does.

在你身体要你放弃前，自己考虑放弃。

So hang in there,

所以撑着点，

and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.

而且你会得到一些十分独特解决方法。

Number two: hesitation is bad.

第二点：别犹豫

This is a friction climb, up in Tuolumne Meadows,

这是一个摩擦攀岩，在图奥勒米迈德斯上，

in the Yosemite high country.

在约塞米蒂。

Friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges.

摩擦攀岩没有任何好爬的地方。

You're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock.

你就是在岩石的小坑小点上攀岩。

The most friction you have is when you first put your hand

你拥有的最大摩擦就是当你第一次把你的手

or your foot on the rock.

或脚放在岩石上。

And then from that point on, you're basically falling.

从那时候开始，你基本上就是在往下滑了。

So momentum is good. Don't stop.

所以冲劲是好的。别停下。

Rule number three: have a plan.

第三条：做个计划。

This is a climb called the Naked Edge,

这是一个叫做裸体边缘的攀岩，

in El Dorado Canyon, outside of Boulder.

在埃尔多拉多峡谷，博尔德之外。

This climber is on the last pitch of it.

这位攀岩者只剩最后一步了。

He's actually right about where I fell.

实际上他就在我要掉下去的地方。

There is about 1,000 feet of air below him.

他下面大概有1000英尺的空气。

And all the hard pitches are actually below him.

而且所有的好的攀岩点都在他的下面。

Often what happens is

所以，经常发生的是

you're planning so hard for like,

你在为这样的事情准备得十分完善，

"How do I get through the hardest part? How do I get through the hardest part?"

“我如何才能通过最难的地方？我如何才能通过最难的地方？”

And then what happens?

但是通过了后又怎么样呢？

You get to the last pitch. It's easy.

你通过了最后一步，这不难。

And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it.

然后你完全就松懈了，不要这样做。

You have to plan ahead to get to the top.

你必须要计划登顶。

But you also can't forget that each individual move

但是你不能忘记每一小步

you have to be able to complete.

你必须完成的每一步。

This is a climb called the Dike Route,

这是一个被叫做堤防之路的攀岩，

on Pywjack Dome, up in the Yosemite high country.

在佩拉圆顶上，在约塞米蒂。

The interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard.

关于这次攀爬，有趣的是它不难。

But if you're the leader on it,

但是如果你是领队，

at the hardest move, you're looking at about 100 foot fall,

在最难的一步，你会看到100英尺的落体，

onto some low angle slabs.

掉到一些低角度的岩板上。

So you've got to focus.

所以，你必须集中注意力。

You don't want to stop in the middle like

你不想像柯勒律治的忽必烈卡恩一样

Coleridge's Kubla Kahn.

在中间停了下来。

You've got to keep going.

你必须不停前进。

Rule number five: know how to rest.

第5条，知道如何休息。

It's amazing. The best climbers

这很奇妙，最好的攀岩者们

are the ones that in the most extreme situations

是那些即使在一些极端的情况下

can get their bodies into some position

仍然能把身体调整到某个姿势

where they can rest,

从而可以休息的人，

regroup, calm themselves, focus,

重组，放松，集中，

and keep going.

然后继续。

This is a climb in the Needles, again in California.

这是尼德尔斯，又在加利福尼亚。

Fear really sucks because what it means is

恐惧很糟糕，因为它意味着

you're not focusing on what you're doing.

你不能专注于你在做的事情。

You're focusing on the consequences of

你关注的是

failing at what you're doing

失败的后果

because any given move should require

因为所有的动作都要求

all your concentration and thought processes

你的全神贯注，然后在整个攀岩过程中

to execute it effectively.

去有效的执行它们。

One of the things in climbing is, most people

关于攀岩，大多数人

sort of take it straight on. And they follow the most obvious solution.

有点太一鼓作气了。然后他们会立刻采用最明显的解决方式。

This is the Devils Tower in Wyoming,

这是在怀俄明州的魔鬼塔，

which is a columnar basalt formation

是由柱状玄武岩形成的，

that most of you probably know from "Close Encounters."

你们应该在“近距离接触”中看过

With this, typically crack climbers

这样，典型的细缝攀岩者

would put their hands in and their toes in

会把他们的手和脚趾放进去，

and just start climbing.

然后开始攀岩。

The cracks are too small to get your toes into

那些裂缝太小，以至于你的脚趾进不去，

so the only way to climb is using your fingertips

所以唯一的攀岩方法是用你的手指尖

in the cracks,

插进裂缝里，

and using opposing pressure

用反压力

and forcing yourself up.

来把你自己推上去。

Rule number eight: strength doesn't always equal success.

第8条：力量不等于成功。

In the 35 years I've been a climbing guide

35年来，我一直从事攀岩指导的工作，

and taught on indoor walls, and stuff like that,

教授室内攀岩，等等。

the most important thing I've learned

我学到的最重要的事情是

was, guys will always try to do pull-ups.

小伙子们永远要尝试引体向上。

Beginning guys, it's like, they thrash, they thrash,

初学者，就是，他们鞭策自己，鞭策自己，

they get 15 feet up --

他们爬到了15英尺。

and they can do about 15 pull-ups right --

然后他们还可以引体向上15个英尺,对吧？

And then they just flame out.

然后他们就会累坏了。

Women are much more in balance

女性则更加善于平衡

because they don't have that idea

因为她们知道

that they're going to be able to do 100 pull-ups.

她们做不到100个引体向上。

They think about how to get the weight over their feet

她们所想的是如何把重量从脚上移开

because it's sort of natural -- they carry you all day long.

因为这是天生的。她们成天的抱着你们。

So balance is really critical,

所以平衡是十分重要的，

and keeping your weight on your feet,

以及把你的重量保持在你的脚上，

which is your strongest muscle.

脚是你最强壮的肌肉。

And of course there is rule number nine.

然后第9条：

I came up with rule number nine after

我在发生了一次意外之后

I actually didn't plan for a fall,

想到了这第九条。

and went about 40 feet and cracked a rib.

我从40英尺的地方摔下来，断了根肋骨。

Once you get to that point where you know it's going to happen,

一旦你到了一个你知道会发生什么的时候，

you need to start thinking about how you're going to let go

你必须得开始想，你将如何放弃

because that is the critical piece

因为那是避免受伤

of not getting hurt --

的关键因素 --

how you're going to fall onto the rope,

你如何在绳索上摔落，

or if you're climbing without a rope,

或者，你不用绳索攀岩，

fall to a place where you can actually control the fall.

掉落到一个你可以控制掉落的地方。

So don't hang on till the bitter end.

所以别血战到底。

Thank you very much.

谢谢

(Applause)

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