Matthew Childs' 9 life lessons from rock climbing

Translator: Peter Jakop Reviewer: Matej Divjak

It's pretty simple. There are nine, sort of, rules

Čisto enostavno je. Imamo devet, recimo pravil,

that I discovered after 35 years of rock climbing.

ki sem jih spoznal v 35 letih plezanja.

Most of them are pretty basic.

Večina je precej enostavnih.

Number one: don't let go --

Številka ena - ne spusti se.

very sure success method.

Gotovo koristno.

But really, truly -- often you think about

Toda resno, večkrat se želite

letting go way before your body does.

vdati, preden se vda vaše telo.

So hang in there,

Zdržite še malo

and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.

in našli boste vsemogoče rešitve.

Number two: hesitation is bad.

Številka dve: Ne oklevaj!

This is a friction climb, up in Tuolumne Meadows,

To je smer na trenje v Tuolumne Meadowsih

in the Yosemite high country.

v visokogorju Yosemitov.

Friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges.

Plezanje na trenje nima dobrih stopov.

You're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock.

Stopamo na drobne izbokline in vdrtine.

The most friction you have is when you first put your hand

Največje trenje imate ob prvem stiku

or your foot on the rock.

s skalo.

And then from that point on, you're basically falling.

Nato le še padate...

So momentum is good. Don't stop.

Izkoristite moment, ne ustavljajte se.

Rule number three: have a plan.

Tretje načelo: imejte načrt.

This is a climb called the Naked Edge,

To je smer z imenom Naked Edge

in El Dorado Canyon, outside of Boulder.

v kanjonu El Dorado v Coloradu.

This climber is on the last pitch of it.

Plezalec je v zadnjem raztežaju.

He's actually right about where I fell.

Približno tam je, kjer sem jaz padel.

There is about 1,000 feet of air below him.

Pod njim je okrog 300 metrov praznine

And all the hard pitches are actually below him.

in vsi težji raztežaji.

Often what happens is

Pogosto preveč

you're planning so hard for like,

razmišljamo o stvareh kot:

"How do I get through the hardest part? How do I get through the hardest part?"

"Ali bom prišel čez najtežji del? Kako?

And then what happens?

In kaj se zgodi?

You get to the last pitch. It's easy.

Prideš do zadnjega raztežaja, ki je lahek.

And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it.

In si popolnoma izgorel. Ne počnite tega.

You have to plan ahead to get to the top.

Načrtujte vnaprej.

But you also can't forget that each individual move

Hkrati ne pozabiti na vsak pozamezen gib,

you have to be able to complete.

ki ga morate narediti.

This is a climb called the Dike Route,

To je smer z imenom Dike Route

on Pywjack Dome, up in the Yosemite high country.

v Peyrat Domu, v visokogorju Yosemitov.

The interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard.

Zanimivo, ta smer ni tako težka.

But if you're the leader on it,

Toda če plezaš naprej,

at the hardest move, you're looking at about 100 foot fall,

ti pri najtežjem gibu grozi 30 metrski padec

onto some low angle slabs.

na nevarnem mestu.

So you've got to focus.

Moraš se torej zbrati.

You don't want to stop in the middle like

Nočete se ustaviti na sredini

Coleridge's Kubla Kahn.

kot Coleridgev Kubla Kahn.

You've got to keep going.

Morate nadaljevati.

Rule number five: know how to rest.

Peto pravilo: Naučite se počivati.

It's amazing. The best climbers

Neverjetno, najboljši plezalci

are the ones that in the most extreme situations

se znajo v najtežjih situacijah

can get their bodies into some position

postaviti tako,

where they can rest,

da lahko v miru počivajo,

regroup, calm themselves, focus,

se umirijo, osredotočijo

and keep going.

in nato nadaljujejo.

This is a climb in the Needles, again in California.

To je smer v Needlesih, v Kaliforniji.

Fear really sucks because what it means is

Strah je res beden, ker pomeni,

you're not focusing on what you're doing.

da se ne osredotočate na trenutek.

You're focusing on the consequences of

Mislite na posledice

failing at what you're doing

svojega neuspeha.

because any given move should require

Ampak vsak gib zahteva

all your concentration and thought processes

vašo popolno koncentracijo,

to execute it effectively.

da ga uspešno izvedete.

One of the things in climbing is, most people

Ena stvar pri plezanju - večina ljudi

sort of take it straight on. And they follow the most obvious solution.

direktno napade smer. Sledijo najočitnejši rešitvi.

This is the Devils Tower in Wyoming,

To je Devils Tower v Wyomingu,

which is a columnar basalt formation

zanimiva formacija iz bazalta,

that most of you probably know from "Close Encounters."

ki jo verjetno poznate iz filma "Bližnja srečanja tretje vrste".

With this, typically crack climbers

Tu bi tipični plezalci poči,

would put their hands in and their toes in

zarinili svoje prste in noge v poč

and just start climbing.

in začeli lesti.

The cracks are too small to get your toes into

Poč je premala, da bi vanjo dobili stopalo,

so the only way to climb is using your fingertips

torej lahko uporabljamo le konice prstov

in the cracks,

v poči

and using opposing pressure

in nasprotujoči si pritisk

and forcing yourself up.

ter se tako dvigamo.

Rule number eight: strength doesn't always equal success.

Osmo pravilo: Moč ne zagotavlja vedno uspeha.

In the 35 years I've been a climbing guide

V 35 letih, odkar učim plezanje,

and taught on indoor walls, and stuff like that,

tudi v telovadnici in podobno,

the most important thing I've learned

sem spoznal pomembno stvar -

was, guys will always try to do pull-ups.

tipi bodo vedno poskušali izvesti potege.

Beginning guys, it's like, they thrash, they thrash,

Začetniki gredo na silo

they get 15 feet up --

in se dvignejo za 5 metrov.

and they can do about 15 pull-ups right --

Okoli petnajstkrat se lahko potegnejo z rokami, ne?

And then they just flame out.

Potem so skurjeni.

Women are much more in balance

Ženske so bolj v ravnovesju,

because they don't have that idea

saj zase ne mislijo,

that they're going to be able to do 100 pull-ups.

da bodo zmožne narediti 100 potegov.

They think about how to get the weight over their feet

Razmišljajo, kako bodo držale ravnotežje z nogami,

because it's sort of natural -- they carry you all day long.

kar je naravno. Nosijo te cel dan.

So balance is really critical,

Ravnotežje je torej zelo pomembno,

and keeping your weight on your feet,

silo naj držijo noge,

which is your strongest muscle.

saj so vaša najmočnejša mišica.

And of course there is rule number nine.

In nato še pravilo devet.

I came up with rule number nine after

Tega sem se domislil,

I actually didn't plan for a fall,

ko pravzaprav nisem pričakoval padca

and went about 40 feet and cracked a rib.

in sem padel približno 13 metrov ter si počil rebro.

Once you get to that point where you know it's going to happen,

Ko se enkrat zaveste, da boste padli,

you need to start thinking about how you're going to let go

morate razmisliti o tem, kako se boste spustili,

because that is the critical piece

kajti to je zelo pomembno,

of not getting hurt --

če se ne želite poškodovati -

how you're going to fall onto the rope,

kako boste padli, kje bo vrv,

or if you're climbing without a rope,

če ste brez vrvi,

fall to a place where you can actually control the fall.

padite tja, kjer lahko nadzirate padec.

So don't hang on till the bitter end.

Ne držite se do zadnjega.

Thank you very much.

Hvala lepa.

(Applause)

(Aplavz)