Homaro Cantu + Ben Roche: Cooking as alchemy

ホーマロ・カントゥ＋ベン・ロシェ: 料理の錬金術

翻訳: Masami Mutsukado and Kacie Wright 校正: Eriko T

Ben Roche: So I'm Ben, by the way.

ベン・ロシェ：私はベンです

Homaro Cantu: And I'm Homaro.

ホーマロ・カントゥ：私はホーマロです

BR: And we're chefs. So when Moto

ベン：私達はシェフで 2004年に

opened in 2004, people didn't really know

「Moto」をオ−プンしましたが

what to expect. A lot of people thought

これが よく日本料理店に

that it was a Japanese restaurant, and

勘違いされました

maybe it was the name, maybe it was

おそらく名前や日本語のように見えた

the logo, which was like a Japanese

ロゴのせいでしょう

character, but anyway, we had all these

とにかく そのため

requests for Japanese food, which is

店にない日本料理の

really not what we did. And after about

リクエストがずいぶんありました

the ten thousandth request for a maki roll,

巻き寿司の注文を1万回ほど

we decided to give the people

受けた頃 私達はリクエストに

what they wanted. So this picture is

応えようと決心したのです

an example of printed food, and this was

これは印刷した食べ物です

the first foray into what we like to call

味の変身とでも呼ぶ 初めての

flavor transformation. So this is all

挑戦でした　巻きずしの

the ingredients, all the flavor of, you know,

材料や全ての風味が

a standard maki roll, printed onto

この小さな紙切れに

a little piece of paper.

印刷されています

HC: So our diners started to get bored

ホーマロ：お客さんは じきに

with this idea, and we decided to give them

このアイデアに飽きてきたので

the same course twice, so here we actually

同じ料理を２度提供しようと考え

took an element from the maki roll and

私達は印刷した巻き寿司と 同じ方法で

and took a picture of a dish and then

料理の写真を撮り

basically served that picture with the dish.

実際の料理と一緒に出しました

So this dish in particular is basically

この料理は 基本的に

champagne with seafood.

シ−フ−ドとシャンペンだけです

The champagne grapes that you see are

ご覧のシャンペンは

actually carbonated grapes. A little bit of

実際は炭酸化したグレ−プです

seafood and some crème fraiche and the

シ−フ−ドと生クリ−ムを加えたこの料理と

picture actually tastes exactly like the dish. (Laughter)

この写真は全く同じ味なんです　（笑）

BR: But it's not all just edible pictures.

ベン：食用の写真だけではありません

We decided to do something

食材にちょっと変わった事をして

a little bit different and transform flavors

私達のよく知った味に

that were very familiar -- so in this case,

変身させてみました　例えば

we have carrot cake.

キャロットケ−キです

So we take a carrot cake, put it

これをミキサ−にかけ

in a blender, and we have kind of like

キャロットケーキジュ−スにし

a carrot cake juice, and then that went into

風船に流し込み

a balloon frozen in liquid nitrogen to create

液体窒素で凍らせます

this hollow shell of carrot cake

中が空洞のキャロットケ−キアイスが

ice cream, I guess, and it comes off

できました

looking like, you know,

お皿の上に木星が

Jupiter's floating around your plate.

浮かんでいるみたいでしょう

So yeah, we're transforming things into

私達は素材を変化させ

something that you have absolutely

未知の食材を

no reference for.

作り出すのです

HC: And here's something we have no

ホーマロ：これも私達が

reference to eat. This is a cigar, and

食べた経験のないもの

basically it's a Cuban cigar made out of

キューバン・ポーク・ サンドイッチから作った

a Cuban pork sandwich, so we take these

キュ−バ葉巻です

spices that go into the pork shoulder,

肩肉用のスパイスを

we fashion that into ash. We take

灰のように形造り

the sandwich and wrap it up in

キュ−バポ−クを

a collard green, put an edible label

カラードの葉で巻きます

that bears no similarity to

コイーバ・シガ−のラベルを真似た

a Cohiba cigar label, and we put it

食べられるラベルを貼り

in a dollar ninety-nine ashtray and charge

２ドルの灰皿に入れ

you about twenty bucks for it. (Laughter)

20ドル請求します　（笑）

HC: Delicious.

ホーマロ：おいしいですよ

BR: That's not it, though.

ベン：それだけじゃありません

Instead of making foods that

食べられないものに似せて

look like things that you wouldn't eat,

食べ物を作るだけでなく

we decided to make ingredients

食材を私達になじみのある料理に似せて

look like dishes that you know.

料理を創る事にしました

So this is a plate of nachos.

これはナチョスです

The difference between our nachos

他のナチョスと

and the other guy's nachos,

私達のナチョスの違いは

is that this is actually a dessert.

これはデザ−トだという事です

So the chips are candied,

チップスは飴掛けしてあり

the ground beef is made from chocolate,

ビ−フはチョコレ−ト

and the cheese is made from a shredded

チ−ズはマンゴ−シャ−ベットを

mango sorbet that gets shredded

細くしたものを液体窒素で

into liquid nitrogen to look like cheese.

固めてあります

And after doing all of this

素材の形を

dematerialization and reconfiguring

崩したり造り直したりして

of this, of these ingredients, we realized

このような事ができるのは

that it was pretty cool,

なかなかクールだと気づきました

because as we served it, we learned that

お客さんに出す時

the dish actually behaves like the real thing,

料理は本物のように見えるんです

where the cheese begins to melt.

チ−ズは溶けだしますし―

So when you're looking at this thing

テ−ブルでこれが出されたら

in the dining room, you have this sensation

本物のナチョスが出てきたという

that this is actually a plate of nachos,

錯覚を起こすでしょう

and it's not really until you begin tasting it

味わって初めて

that you realize this is a dessert, and

デザ−トだと気付き

it's just kind of like a mind-ripper.

ドッキリすることでしょう

(Laughter)

（笑）

HC: So we had been creating

ホーマロ：キッチンというより

all of these dishes out of a

整備工場に近いようなキッチンで

kitchen that was more like

これらの料理を

a mechanic's shop than a kitchen, and

作ってきました

the next logical step for us was to install

次の段階は

a state-of-the-art laboratory,

このような最先端のラボを

and that's what we have here.

設備することでした

So we put this in the basement, and we

地下室に備え付け

got really serious about food, like

食べ物の研究にまじめに

serious experimentation.

取り組みました

BR: One of the really cool things about

ベン：私達の研究室がスゴイのは

the lab, besides that we have a new

キッチンにサイエンス・ラボが

science lab in the kitchen, is that,

あるからだけではありません

you know, with this new equipment, and

新しい装置や方法で

this new approach, all these

夢想だにしなかった

different doors to creativity that we never

創造的な試みができるのです

knew were there began to open, and so the

私達の挑戦する

experiments and the food and the dishes

実験や食材や料理は

that we created, they just kept going

少しずつ

further and further out there.

変わったものになっていきました

HC: Let's talk about flavor transformation,

ホーマロ：ここで 味の変身による

and let's actually make some cool stuff.

面白い料理の話をして実際に作ってみます

You see a cow with its tongue hanging out.

牛が舌を出していますね

What I see is a cow about to eat something

何かおいしいものを

delicious. What is that cow eating?

食べようとしていますが

And why is it delicious?

牛にとってのごちそうとは？

So the cow, basically, eats three basic

牛のえさは 基本的に

things in their feed: corn, beets, and barley,

トウモロコシとビーツと大麦です

and so what I do is I actually

スタッフにはいつも

challenge my staff with these crazy,

突拍子もない挑戦を

wild ideas. Can we take what the cow

させるのですが―　牛肉を使わずに

eats, remove the cow, and then make

牛のえさだけで

some hamburgers out of that?

ハンバーガーを作れるでしょうか？

And basically the reaction tends to be

たいてい このような

kind of like this. (Laughter)

反応をされます 　（笑）

BR: Yeah, that's our chef de cuisine,

ベン：彼はシェフの

Chris Jones. This is not the only guy

クリス・ジョ−ンズです

that just flips out when we assign

変な仕事をさせらせて

a ridiculous task, but a lot of these ideas,

困惑するのは彼だけではありません

they're hard to understand.

私達のアイディアの多くは

They're hard to just get automatically.

咄嗟には理解しがたいでしょう

There's a lot of research and a lot of

全ての料理に

failure, trial and error -- I guess, more error --

多くのリサ−チや

that goes into each and every dish,

試行錯誤が必要で

so we don't always get it right, and it takes

特に多くの失敗はつきものです

a while for us to be able to explain that

人に説明するのにも

to people.

大変時間がかかります

HC: So, after about a day of Chris and I

ホーマロ：私とクリスは一日中

staring at each other, we came up with

頭を突き合わせ

something that was pretty close

本物のハンバ−ガ−のパティに

to the hamburger patty, and as you can

近いものを

see it basically forms like hamburger meat.

考え付きました

This is made from three ingredients:

三つの材料からできています

beets, barley, corn, and so it

ビーツと大麦とトウモロコシです

actually cooks up like hamburger meat,

ハンバ−ガ−のように焼き

looks and tastes like hamburger meat,

見かけも味もそっくりです

and not only that, but it's basically

それだけではなく

removing the cow from the equation.

牛肉も使いません

So replicating food, taking it into that

食材を別の材料で再現し このように次の次元へ昇華するのが

next level is where we're going.

私達の目指すところなのです

(Applause)

（拍手）

BR: And it's definitely the world's first

ベン：たしかに世界初の血のしたたる

bleeding veggie burger,

野菜バ−ガ−です

which is a cool side effect.

クールな効果だと思いませんか

And a miracle berry, if you're not familiar

そして「奇跡のべリ−」

with it, is a natural ingredient, and it

これは天然素材で

contains a special property.

特別な特徴があります

It's a glycoprotein called miraculin,

ミラクリンという糖タンパクを含み

a naturally occurring thing. It still freaks

私は食べるたびに

me out every time I eat it, but it has a

未だに混乱させられます

unique ability to mask certain taste

舌の ある受容器官を

receptors on your tongue, so that primarily

だます能力があり

sour taste receptors, so normally things

酸っぱさやピリッとした味は

that would taste very sour or tart,

なんだかとても甘い味が

somehow begin to taste very sweet.

するように変わります

HC: You're about to eat a lemon,

ホーマロ：レモンを食べたら

and now it tastes like lemonade.

レモネ−ドの味がするでしょう

Let's just stop and think about the

そういう技術の経済的効果を

economic benefits of something like that.

少し考えてみましょう

We could eliminate sugar across the board

お菓子やソ−ダの糖類を

for all confectionary products and sodas,

完全に天然果実と

and we can replace it with

入れ替える事が

all-natural fresh fruit.

できるかもしれません

BR: So you see us here cutting up

ベン：これはスイカを

some watermelon. The idea with this

切っているところです

is that we're going to eliminate tons of

このスイカを使ったアイデアで

food miles, wasted energy,

食物の輸送距離や エネルギーの浪費

and overfishing of tuna by creating tuna,

マグロの乱獲を減らそうと考えました

or any exotic produce or item

つまり地元の有機農産物を使い

from a very far-away place,

マグロや遠い場所の

with local, organic produce;

珍しい野菜や料理を作るのです　　　　　　　　このスイカは

so we have a watermelon from Wisconsin.

ウィスコンシン州産です

HC: So if miracle berries take sour things

ホーマロ：「奇跡のベリ−」は酸味を

and turn them into sweet things,

甘味に変えますが

we have this other pixie dust

この「妖精の粉」を

that we put on the watermelon, and it

スイカにかけると

makes it go from sweet to savory.

甘味は旨味に変わります

So after we do that, we put it into

その後 真空袋に入れて

a vacuum bag, add a little bit of seaweed,

少量の海苔や

some spices, and we roll it, and this

香辛料を加えて巻くと

starts taking on the appearance of tuna.

マグロに見えて来ます

So the key now is to make it

次は本物に

behave like tuna.

近づけるコツです

BR: And then after a quick dip into some

ベン：素早く液体窒素に浸し

liquid nitrogen to get that perfect sear,

きれいな焦げ目を付けると

we really have something that looks,

本物とちょうど同じ

tastes and behaves like the real thing.

味と歯ごたえになります

HC: So the key thing to remember here is,

ホーマロ：このマグロが実は何であるかは

we don't really care

重要ではないと

what this tuna really is.

覚えておいてください

As long as it's good for you and good for

人や環境にやさしい限り

the environment, it doesn't matter.

構わないのです

But where is this going?

このアイディアの行く末は？

How can we take this idea of tricking your

味覚をだます技術を

tastebuds and leapfrog it into something

もっと発達させたら

that we can do today that could be

どのような革命を起こす

a disruptive food technology?

フード・テクノロジーに なるでしょうか？

So here's the next challenge.

さて 次の挑戦です

I told the staff, let's just take a bunch

野生植物をたくさん採って

of wild plants, think of them as

食材にしようと

food ingredients. As long as they're

スタッフに言いました

non-poisonous to the human body,

人体に毒でないかぎり

go out around Chicago sidewalks,

シカゴの歩道から採った植物を

take it, blend it, cook it and then

混ぜ合わせて 焼いて

have everybody flavor-trip on it at Moto.

皆でMotoで味見をしよう

Let's charge them a boatload of cash for this

お客さんに高額を請求して

and see what they think. (Laughter)

感想を聞いてみようと―（笑）

BR: Yeah, so you can imagine, a task

ベン：こんなに大変な仕事を

like this -- this is another one of those

させれば スタッフに

assignments that the kitchen staff

嫌がられるのも分かるでしょう

hated us for. But we really had to almost

でも最初から料理についての

relearn how to cook in general,

考え方を変えなければならなかったのです

because these are ingredients, you know,

これらの食材は

plant life that we're, one, unfamiliar with,

なじみのない植物です

and two, we have no reference for how

普段食べる事がないため

to cook these things because

私達は料理方法を

people don't eat them.

知りませんでした

So we really had to think about new, creative ways

クリエイティブな調理法や味付け

to flavor, new ways to cook

舌触りを変える方法を

and to change texture -- and that was

考えなければならず

the main issue with this challenge.

それが一番の問題でした

HC: So this is where we step into the future

ホーマロ：さあ 今こそ未来へ足を踏み出し

and we leapfrog ahead.

飛躍する時です

So developing nations

想像して下さい

and first-world nations,

発展途上国と先進国が

imagine if you could take these wild plants

野生植物をもっと食べたら

and consume them, food miles would

食料の輸送距離はキロから

basically turn into food feet.

メ−トルに短く変わるでしょう

This disruptive mentality of what food is

もし「食材」の意味を

would essentially open up the encyclopedia

根本的に変え 原材料の 百科事典を新たに開けば―

of what raw ingredients are, even if we just

例えば 小麦粉の代わりに

swapped out, say, one of these for flour,

これらの材料の１つを使ったら

that would eliminate so much energy

エネルギ−の節約にもなるし

and so much waste.

無駄も減るでしょう

And to give you a simple example here as to

私達がお客さんに

what we actually fed these customers,

供したものの例を１つ

there's a bale of hay there

こちらはわら1梱と

and some crab apples.

野生リンゴです

And basically we took hay and crab apples

この２つの材料から

and made barbecue sauce out of those two ingredients.

バ−ベキュ−ソ−スを作りました

People swore they were eating

皆さん本物だと信じましたが

barbecue sauce, and this is free food.

タダで手に入れた材料しか使っていないのです

BR: Thanks, guys.

ベン：どうもありがとう

(Applause)

（拍手）