Fashion that celebrates African strength and spirit | Walé Oyéjidé

Prevodilac: Ivana Korom Lektor: Tijana Mihajlović

It is often said that the stories of history are written by its victors,

Često se kaže da priče iz istorije pišu pobednici,

but if this is true,

ali ukoliko je ovo istina,

what becomes of the downtrodden,

šta se dešava sa ugnjetavanima

and how can they ever hope to aspire for something greater

i kako oni mogu da se nadaju da teže ka nečemu većem

if they are never told the stories of their own glorious pasts?

ukoliko im nisu pričali priče o njihovoj sopstvenoj slavnoj prošlosti?

Ostensibly, I stand before you as a mere maker of clothing,

Prividno stojim ispred vas samo kao izrađivač odeće,

but within the folds of ancient fabrics and modern textiles,

ali u naborima, drevnim materijalima i modernom tekstilu

I have found a higher calling.

ja sam našao više zvanje.

Through my work as a designer,

Putem mog rada kao dizajnera,

I've discovered the importance of providing representation

otkrio sam važnost da omogućim predstavljanje

for the marginalized members of our society,

za marginalizovane članove našeg društva

and the importance of telling the most vulnerable among us

i važnost pričanja i najosetljivijima među nama

that they no longer have to compromise themselves

da više ne moraju da kompromituju sebe

just so they can fit in with an uncompromising majority.

samo da bi se uklopili u beskompromisnu većinu.

It turns out that fashion,

Ispada da moda,

a discipline many of us consider to be trivial,

disciplina za koju mnogi od nas smatraju da je trivijalna,

can actually be a powerful tool for dismantling bias

može zapravo biti moćan alat za raskrinkavanje pristrasnosti

and bolstering the self-images of underrepresented populations.

i poboljšanja sopstvene slike nedovoljno zastupljenih populacija.

My interest in using design as a vehicle for social change

Moje interesovanje za korišćenje dizajna kao vozila za društvenu promenu

happens to be a personal one.

slučajno je lične prirode.

As a Nigerian American, I know how easily the term "African"

Kao nigerijski Amerikanac, znam kako lako termin „afrički“

can slip from being an ordinary geographic descriptor

može skliznuti od toga da je uobičajen geografski opisni termin

to becoming a pejorative.

do toga da postane pogrdan.

For those of us from this beautiful continent,

Za one među nama sa ovog prelepog kontinenta,

to be African is to be inspired by culture

biti Afrikanac znači biti inspirisan kulturom

and to be filled with undying hope for the future.

i biti ispunjen besmrtnom nadom za budućnost.

So in an attempt to shift the misguided perceptions that many have

Pa, u pokušaju da promenim pogrešne percepcije koje mnogi imaju

about the place of my birth,

o mestu mog rođenja,

I use design as a means to tell stories,

koristim dizajn kao sredstvo da pričam priče,

stories about joy,

priče o radosti,

stories about triumph,

priče o trijumfu,

stories about perseverance all throughout the African diaspora.

priče o istrajnosti svuda širom afričke dijaspore.

I tell these stories

Pričam ove priče

as a concerted effort to correct the historical record,

kao objedinjeni napor da ispravim istorijski zapis,

because, no matter where any of us is from,

zato što, bez obzira na to odakle je bilo ko od nas,

each of us has been touched by the complicated histories

svakog od nas su dotakle komplikovane istorije

that brought our families to a foreign land.

koje su dovele naše porodice u stranu zemlju.

These histories shape the way we view the world,

Ove istorije oblikuju način na koji vidimo svet

and they mold the biases we carry around with us.

i one su kalupi pristrasnosti koje nosimo sa sobom.

To combat these biases,

Kako bi pobedio te pristrasnosti,

my work draws aesthetics from different parts of the globe

moj rad privlači estetiku iz različitih delova sveta

and crafts a narrative about the importance

i gradi narativ o važnosti

of fighting for inclusivity.

borbe za inkluziju.

By refashioning images from classic European art

Promenom slika iz klasične evropske umetnosti

and marrying them with African aesthetics,

i njihovim venčanjem sa afričkom estetikom,

I am able to recast people of color in roles of prominence,

uspeo sam da spojim obojene ljude sa uglednim ulogama,

providing them with a degree of dignity

pruživši im stepen dostojanstva

they didn't have in earlier times.

koje oni nisu imali ranije.

This approach subverts the historically accepted narrative of African inferiority,

Ovaj pristup podriva istorijski prihvaćene priče o afričkoj inferiornosti

and it serves as inspiration for people of color

i služi kao inspiracija obojenim ljudima

who have grown wary of seeing themselves depicted without sophistication

kojima je dosta da viđaju sebe prikazane bez sofisticiranosti

and without grace.

i bez gracioznosti.

Each of these culture-bending tapestries

Svaka od ovih tapiserija koja menja kulturu

becomes a tailored garment

postaje skrojena odeća ili svileni šal,

or a silk scarf, like the one I am very coincidentally wearing right now.

nalik ovom koji ja sasvim slučajno nosim upravo sada.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

And even when surrounded in a structure of European classicism,

Čak i kada smo okruženi strukturom evropskog klasicizma,

these narratives boldly extoll the merits of African empowerment.

ove priče hrabro veličaju zasluge afričkog osnaživanja.

In this way, the tools of the masters become masterworks

Na ovaj način, alat u rukama majstora postaje majstorski rad

to celebrate those who were once subservient.

kako bi slavio one koji su nekada bili podređeni.

This metaphor extends beyond the realm of art

Ova metafora se pruža širom oblasti umetnosti

and out into the real world.

i izlazi u stvaran svet.

Whether worn by refugees or world-changing entrepreneurs,

Bilo da ih nose izbeglice ili preduzetnici koji menjaju svet,

when people are allowed the freedom to present themselves

kada je ljudima dozvoljena sloboda da predstavljaju sebe

in a manner that celebrates their own unique identities,

na način koji slavi njihove sopstvene jedinstvene identitete,

a magical thing happens.

magična stvar se dešava.

We stand taller.

Mi ponosno stojimo.

We're more proud and self-aware

Ponosniji smo i samosvesniji

because we're presenting our true, authentic selves.

zato što predstavljamo naše istinsko, autentično biće.

And those of us who are around them in turn become more educated,

I oni među nama koji se nalaze oko njih zauzvrat postaju obrazovaniji,

more open and more tolerant of their different points of view.

otvoreniji i tolerantniji prema njihovim drugačijim tačkama gledišta.

In this way, the clothes that we wear

Na ovaj način, odeća koju nosimo

can be a great illustration of diplomatic soft power.

može biti velika ilustracija diplomatske blage moći.

The clothes that we wear can serve as bridges

Odeća koju nosimo može nam poslužiti kao most

between our seemingly disparate cultures.

između naših naoko različitih kultura.

And so, yeah, ostensibly I stand before you as a mere maker of clothing.

I tako, da, prividno stojim ispred vas kao izrađivač odeće.

But my work has always been about more than fashion.

Ali moj rad je uvek bio nešto više od mode.

It has become my purpose to rewrite the cultural narratives

Moja svrha je postala prepravljanje kulturoloških narativa

so that people of color can be seen in a new and nuanced light,

tako da obojeni ljudi mogu biti viđeni pod novim i nijansiranim svetlom

and so that we,

i da mi,

the proud children of sub-Saharan Africa,

ponosna deca podsaharske Afrike,

možemo preći svet

can traverse the globe

while carrying ourselves with pride.

ponosni na sebe.

It was indeed true that the stories of history

Zaista je istinito da priče iz istorije

were told by its old victors,

pričaju njeni pobednici,

but I am of a new generation.

ali ja sam predstavnik nove generacije.

My work speaks for those

Moj rad govori za one

who will no longer let their futures be dictated by a troubled past.

koji neće više dozvoliti da njihovu budućnost diktira problematična prošlost.

Today, we stand ready to tell our own stories

Danas, stojimo spremni da pričamo naše sopstvene priče

without compromise, without apologies.

bez kompromisa, bez izvinjenja.

But the question still remains:

Ali pitanje i dalje ostaje:

are you prepared for what you are about to hear?

da li ste spremni za ono što ćete da čujete?

I hope you are, because we are coming regardless.

Nadam se da jeste, zato što mi dolazimo bez obzira na to.

(Applause)

(Aplauz)