Fashion that celebrates African strength and spirit | Walé Oyéjidé

31,824 views ・ 2018-03-08

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It is often said that the stories of history are written by its victors,
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but if this is true,
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what becomes of the downtrodden,
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and how can they ever hope to aspire for something greater
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if they are never told the stories of their own glorious pasts?
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Ostensibly, I stand before you as a mere maker of clothing,
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but within the folds of ancient fabrics and modern textiles,
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I have found a higher calling.
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Through my work as a designer,
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I've discovered the importance of providing representation
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for the marginalized members of our society,
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and the importance of telling the most vulnerable among us
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that they no longer have to compromise themselves
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just so they can fit in with an uncompromising majority.
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It turns out that fashion,
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a discipline many of us consider to be trivial,
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can actually be a powerful tool for dismantling bias
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and bolstering the self-images of underrepresented populations.
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My interest in using design as a vehicle for social change
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happens to be a personal one.
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As a Nigerian American, I know how easily the term "African"
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can slip from being an ordinary geographic descriptor
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to becoming a pejorative.
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For those of us from this beautiful continent,
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to be African is to be inspired by culture
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and to be filled with undying hope for the future.
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So in an attempt to shift the misguided perceptions that many have
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about the place of my birth,
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I use design as a means to tell stories,
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stories about joy,
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stories about triumph,
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stories about perseverance all throughout the African diaspora.
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I tell these stories
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as a concerted effort to correct the historical record,
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because, no matter where any of us is from,
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each of us has been touched by the complicated histories
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that brought our families to a foreign land.
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These histories shape the way we view the world,
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and they mold the biases we carry around with us.
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To combat these biases,
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my work draws aesthetics from different parts of the globe
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and crafts a narrative about the importance
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of fighting for inclusivity.
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By refashioning images from classic European art
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and marrying them with African aesthetics,
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I am able to recast people of color in roles of prominence,
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providing them with a degree of dignity
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they didn't have in earlier times.
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This approach subverts the historically accepted narrative of African inferiority,
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and it serves as inspiration for people of color
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who have grown wary of seeing themselves depicted without sophistication
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and without grace.
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Each of these culture-bending tapestries
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becomes a tailored garment
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or a silk scarf, like the one I am very coincidentally wearing right now.
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(Laughter)
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And even when surrounded in a structure of European classicism,
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these narratives boldly extoll the merits of African empowerment.
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In this way, the tools of the masters become masterworks
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to celebrate those who were once subservient.
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This metaphor extends beyond the realm of art
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and out into the real world.
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Whether worn by refugees or world-changing entrepreneurs,
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when people are allowed the freedom to present themselves
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in a manner that celebrates their own unique identities,
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a magical thing happens.
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We stand taller.
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We're more proud and self-aware
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because we're presenting our true, authentic selves.
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And those of us who are around them in turn become more educated,
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more open and more tolerant of their different points of view.
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In this way, the clothes that we wear
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can be a great illustration of diplomatic soft power.
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The clothes that we wear can serve as bridges
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between our seemingly disparate cultures.
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And so, yeah, ostensibly I stand before you as a mere maker of clothing.
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But my work has always been about more than fashion.
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It has become my purpose to rewrite the cultural narratives
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so that people of color can be seen in a new and nuanced light,
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and so that we,
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the proud children of sub-Saharan Africa,
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can traverse the globe
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while carrying ourselves with pride.
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It was indeed true that the stories of history
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were told by its old victors,
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but I am of a new generation.
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My work speaks for those
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who will no longer let their futures be dictated by a troubled past.
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Today, we stand ready to tell our own stories
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without compromise, without apologies.
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But the question still remains:
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are you prepared for what you are about to hear?
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I hope you are, because we are coming regardless.
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(Applause)
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