Chris Burkard: The joy of surfing in ice-cold water

Prevodilac: Miloš Milosavljević Lektor: Ivana Krivokuća

So if I told you that this was the face of pure joy,

Ako bih vam rekao da je ovo radostan izraz lica,

would you call me crazy?

da li biste me nazvali ludim?

I wouldn't blame you,

Ne bih vam zamerio,

because every time I look at this Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.

jer svaki put kad pogledam ovaj arktički selfi, malo zadrhtim.

I want to tell you a little bit about this photograph.

Želim da vam kažem nešto o ovoj fotografiji.

I was swimming around in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,

Plivao sam na Lofotskim ostrvima u Norveškoj,

just inside the Arctic Circle,

na obodu arktičkog kruga

and the water was hovering right at freezing.

i voda je bila oko tačke mržnjenja.

The air? A brisk -10 with windchill,

A vazduh? Oštrih minus 10 stepeni,

and I could literally feel the blood trying to leave my hands,

i mogao sam bukvalno da osetim kako mi krv otiče iz šaka,

feet and face, and rush to protect my vital organs.

stopala i lica, i juri da zaštiti vitalne organe.

It was the coldest I've ever been.

Najveća hladnoća koju sam ikada osetio.

But even with swollen lips, sunken eyes, and cheeks flushed red,

Ali čak i sa oteklim usnama, upalim očima i crvenim obrazima

I have found that this place right here is somewhere I can find great joy.

shvatio sam da na ovom mestu mogu da osetim veliko zadovoljstvo.

Now, when it comes to pain, psychologist Brock Bastian

Što se tiče bola, psiholog Brok Bastian

probably said it best when he wrote,

ga je verovatno najbolje definisao kad je napisao:

"Pain is a kind of shortcut to mindfulness.

"Bol je neka vrsta prečice za stanje svesnosti.

It makes us suddenly aware of everything in the environment.

On čini da iznenada postanemo svesni svega u okruženju.

It brutally draws us in

Uvlači nas brutalno

to a virtual sensory awareness of the world much like meditation."

u virtuelnu čulnu svesnost o svetu, vrlo slično meditaciji."

If shivering is a form of meditation, then I would consider myself a monk.

Ako je drhtavica oblik meditacije, onda bih ja bio monah.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

Now, before we get into the why

Pre nego što se zapitamo

would anyone ever want to surf in freezing cold water?

zašto bi iko želeo da surfuje u ledenoj vodi,

I would love to give you a little perspective

voleo bih da vam malo dočaram

on what a day in my life can look like.

kako jedan dan u mom životu može izgledati.

(Music)

(Muzika)

(Video) Man: I mean, I know we were hoping for good waves,

(Video) Čovek: Jeste da smo se nadali dobrim talasima,

but I don't think anybody thought that was going to happen.

ali mislim da niko nije pomislio da će se to i desiti.

I can't stop shaking.

Ne mogu da prestanem da se tresem.

I am so cold.

Užasno mi je hladno.

(Music)

(Muzika)

(Applause)

(Aplauz)

Chris Burkard: So, surf photographer, right?

Kris Barkard: Znači, fotograf surfa?

I don't even know if it's a real job title, to be honest.

Iskreno, ne znam ni da li je to pravo zanimanje.

My parents definitely didn't think so

Moji roditelji su definitivno mislili da nije

when I told them at 19 I was quitting my job to pursue this dream career:

kad sam im sa 19 godina rekao da napuštam posao zbog tog sna:

blue skies, warm tropical beaches, and a tan that lasts all year long.

plavo nebo, tropske plaže i preplanulost preko cele godine.

I mean, to me, this was it. Life could not get any better.

Za mene je to bilo to. Nije postojao bolji život.

Sweating it out, shooting surfers in these exotic tourist destinations.

Preznojavanje, slikanje surfera na egzotičnim turističkim destinacijama.

But there was just this one problem.

Ali postojao je jedan problem.

You see, the more time I spent traveling to these exotic locations,

Što sam više vremena provodio putujući na ove egzotične lokacije,

the less gratifying it seemed to be.

to mi je izgledalo manje zadovoljavajuće.

I set out seeking adventure, and what I was finding was only routine.

Krenuo sam tražeći avanturu, a nalazio sam samo rutinu.

It was things like wi-fi, TV, fine dining, and a constant cellular connection

To su bile stvari kao vaj-faj, televizija, večere i stalna mobilna veza

that to me were all the trappings of places heavily touristed

koje su za mene bile karakteristike turističkih mesta

in and out of the water,

na moru i onih koja nisu na moru

and it didn't take long for me to start feeling suffocated.

i vrlo brzo, to je počelo da me guši.

I began craving wild, open spaces,

Počeo sam da žudim za divljim i otvorenim prostorima

and so I set out to find the places others had written off

i tako sam krenuo da tražim mesta koja su drugi otpisali

as too cold, too remote, and too dangerous to surf,

kao suviše hladna, zabačena i opasna za surfovanje

and that challenge intrigued me.

i taj izazov me je zaintrigirao.

I began this sort of personal crusade against the mundane,

Krenuo sam u neku vrstu

ličnog krstaškog pohoda protiv svakodnevice,

because if there's one thing I've realized,

jer ako sam nešto shvatio,

it's that any career,

to je da za svako zanimanje,

even one as seemingly glamorous as surf photography,

čak i za ono naizgled glamurozno kao što je fotografija surfa,

has the danger of becoming monotonous.

postoji opasnost da postane monotono.

So in my search to break up this monotony, I realized something:

Tako da sam u svojoj potrazi za razbijanjem monotonije nešto shvatio:

There's only about a third of the Earth's oceans that are warm,

samo je oko trećine Zemljinih okeana toplo,

and it's really just that thin band around the equator.

i to samo onaj uzak pojas oko ekvatora.

So if I was going to find perfect waves,

Znači da, ako hoću da nađem savršene talase,

it was probably going to happen somewhere cold,

to će verovatno biti negde gde je hladno,

where the seas are notoriously rough,

gde su mora ozloglašeno burna,

and that's exactly where I began to look.

i upravo sam tamo počeo da tražim.

And it was my first trip to Iceland

I na svom prvom putovanju na Island,

that I felt like I found exactly what I was looking for.

osetio sam da sam našao upravo ono što sam tražio.

I was blown away by the natural beauty of the landscape,

Bio sam zadivljen prirodnom lepotom pejzaža,

but most importantly, I couldn't believe we were finding perfect waves

ali najvažnije, nisam mogao da verujem da smo našli savršene talase

in such a remote and rugged part of the world.

u tako zabačenom i surovom delu sveta.

At one point, we got to the beach

U jednom momentu, došli smo na plažu

only to find massive chunks of ice had piled on the shoreline.

i zatekli ogromne komade leda na obali.

They created this barrier between us and the surf,

Preprečili su nam put ka surfovanju

and we had to weave through this thing like a maze

i morali smo da ih zaobilazimo kao u lavirintu

just to get out into the lineup.

da bismo prošli,

and once we got there,

i kad smo stigli,

we were pushing aside these ice chunks trying to get into waves.

sklanjali smo u ih stranu pokušavajući da stignemo do talasa.

It was an incredible experience, one I'll never forget,

To je bilo neverovatno iskustvo koje nikad neću zaboraviti,

because amidst those harsh conditions,

jer usred tih teških uslova,

I felt like I stumbled onto one of the last quiet places,

osećao sam kao da sam nabasao na jedno od poslednjih mirnih mesta,

somewhere that I found a clarity and a connection with the world

negde gde sam našao jasnoću i povezanost sa svetom

I knew I would never find on a crowded beach.

koju, znao sam, nikada ne bih našao na pretrpanoj plaži.

I was hooked. I was hooked. (Laughter)

Bio sam navučen. (Smeh)

Cold water was constantly on my mind,

Stalno sam razmišljao o hladnoj vodi

and from that point on,

i od tada

my career focused on these types of harsh and unforgiving environments,

moja karijera je fokusirana na ta okrutna i nemilosrdna okruženja

and it took me to places like Russia, Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,

i to me je odvelo na mesta kao što su: Rusija, Norveška, Aljaska, Island, Čile,

the Faroe Islands, and a lot of places in between.

Farska ostrva i još mnoga druga mesta.

And one of my favorite things about these places

Jedna od mojih omiljenih stvari u vezi sa ovim mestima

was simply the challenge and the creativity it took just to get there:

je prosto izazov i kreativnost

koja je potrebna da bi se samo stiglo tamo:

hours, days, weeks spent on Google Earth

sati, dani, nedelje provedene na Google Earth-u

trying to pinpoint any remote stretch of beach or reef we could actually get to.

u lociranju neke zabačene plaže ili grebena na koji možemo da stignemo.

And once we got there, the vehicles were just as creative:

I kad smo stigli tamo, vozila su bila isto tako kreativna:

snowmobiles, six-wheel Soviet troop carriers,

motorne sanke, transporter sovjetske vojske sa šest točkova

and a couple of super-sketchy helicopter flights.

i nekoliko super improvizovanih letova helikopterom.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

Helicopters really scare me, by the way.

Helikopteri me jako plaše, inače.

There was this one particularly bumpy boat ride

A ovo je bila jedna posebno neprijatna plovidba brodom

up the coast of Vancouver Island to this kind of remote surf spot,

uz obalu ostrva Vankuver do ovog zabačenog mesta za surf,

where we ended up watching helplessly from the water

gde smo završili bespomoćno gledajući iz vode

as bears ravaged our camp site.

kako nam medvedi uništavaju kamp.

They walked off with our food and bits of our tent,

Odneli su nam hranu i delove šatora

clearly letting us know that we were at the bottom of the food chain

dajući nam do znanja da se nalazimo na dnu lanca ishrane

and that this was their spot, not ours.

i da je to njihovo mesto, a ne naše.

But to me, that trip

Ali meni je to putovanje

was a testament to the wildness I traded for those touristy beaches.

pokazalo divljinu kojom sam zamenio turističke plaže.

Now, it wasn't until I traveled to Norway -- (Laughter) --

Ali tek kad sam otputovao u Norvešku - (Smeh) -

that I really learned to appreciate the cold.

naučio sam da stvarno cenim hladnoću.

So this is the place

Ovo je mesto

where some of the largest, the most violent storms in the world

gde neke od najvećih i najžešćih oluja na svetu

send huge waves smashing into the coastline.

prave ogromne talase koji se razbijaju o obalu.

We were in this tiny, remote fjord, just inside the Arctic Circle.

Bili smo u ovom malom, zabačenom fjordu na obodu arktičkog kruga.

It had a greater population of sheep than people,

Tamo je veća populacija ovaca nego ljudi

so help if we needed it was nowhere to be found.

i ako bi nam trebala pomoć, ne bismo mogli da je nađemo.

I was in the water taking pictures of surfers,

Bio sam u vodi fotografišući surfere

and it started to snow.

i počeo je da pada sneg.

And then the temperature began to drop.

A onda je temperatura počela da pada.

And I told myself, there's not a chance you're getting out of the water.

Rekao sam sebi: "Nema šanse da izađeš iz vode.

You traveled all this way, and this is exactly what you've been waiting for:

Putovao si ovoliko dugo i ovo je ono što si čekao:

freezing cold conditions with perfect waves.

ledeni uslovi sa savršenim talasima."

And although I couldn't even feel my finger to push the trigger,

Iako nisam osećao prst da bih pritisnuo okidač,

I knew I wasn't getting out.

znao sam da nema šanse da izađem.

So I just did whatever I could. I shook it off, whatever.

Tako da sam radio šta god sam mogao, protresao ruke.

But that was the point that I felt

Ali u tom momentu sam osetio

this wind gush through the valley and hit me,

nalet vetra kroz dolinu

and what started as this light snowfall quickly became a full-on blizzard,

i ono što je počelo kao susnežica ubrzo je postalo prava mećava

and I started to lose perception of where I was.

i počeo sam da gubim osećaj za to gde se nalazim.

I didn't know if I was drifting out to sea or towards shore,

Nisam znao da li plutam ka otvorenom moru ili ka obali

and all I could really make out was the faint sound of seagulls

i sve što sam mogao da razaberem bio je slab zvuk galebova

and crashing waves.

i talasa koji se razbijaju.

Now, I knew this place had a reputation for sinking ships and grounding planes,

Znao sam da su na ovom mestu tonuli brodovi i padali avioni,

and while I was out there floating, I started to get a little bit nervous.

i dok sam plutao, postajao sam malo nervozan.

Actually, I was totally freaking out --

U stvari, potpuno sam bio izbezumljen -

(Laughter) -- and I was borderline hypothermic,

(Smeh) - i bio sam na granici hipotermije

and my friends eventually had to help me out of the water.

i moji prijatelji su na kraju morali da mi pomognu da izađem iz vode.

And I don't know if it was delirium setting in or what,

Ne znam da li sam počeo da ulazim u delirijum ili šta već,

but they told me later

ali kasnije su mi rekli

I had a smile on my face the entire time.

da sam imao osmeh na licu sve vreme.

Now, it was this trip

Upravo sam na ovom putovanju,

and probably that exact experience where I really began to feel

i verovatno baš ovom prilikom, počeo da osećam

like every photograph was precious,

da je svaka fotografija dragocena,

because all of a sudden in that moment, it was something I was forced to earn.

jer je iznenada u tom momentu,

to bilo nešto što sam bio primoran da dobijem.

And I realized, all this shivering had actually taught me something:

I shvatio sam da me je sve to drhtanje nečemu naučilo:

In life, there are no shortcuts to joy.

u životu nema prečica za zadovoljstvo.

Anything that is worth pursuing is going to require us to suffer

Svaki vredan cilj zahtevaće od nas da se pomučimo

just a little bit,

bar malo,

and that tiny bit of suffering that I did for my photography,

i to malo muke koju sam imao zbog svoje fotografije

it added a value to my work that was so much more meaningful to me

dodalo je vrednost mom radu, što mi je mnogo više značilo

than just trying to fill the pages of magazines.

od pukog ispunjavanja stranica časopisa.

See, I gave a piece of myself in these places,

Dao sam deo sebe na ovim mestima

and what I walked away with

i ono sa čim sam otišao

was a sense of fulfillment I had always been searching for.

je osećaj ispunjenja koji sam oduvek tražio.

So I look back at this photograph.

Vraćam se na ovu fotografiju.

It's easy to see frozen fingers and cold wetsuits

Lako je videti smrznute prste i hladne zaštitne kostime

and even the struggle that it took just to get there,

i čak i borbu da se stigne tamo,

but most of all, what I see is just joy.

ali pre svega, ono što ja vidim je samo zadovoljstvo.

Thank you so much.

Hvala vam mnogo.

(Applause)

(Aplauz)