Chris Burkard: The joy of surfing in ice-cold water

Prevoditelj: Izidora Zganjer Recezent: Dori Ban

So if I told you that this was the face of pure joy,

Ako vam kažem da je ovo izraz čiste sreće,

would you call me crazy?

biste li me nazvali ludim?

I wouldn't blame you,

Ne krivim vas,

because every time I look at this Arctic selfie, I shiver just a little bit.

jer svaki put kada pogledam ovaj arktički selfie, malo protrnem.

I want to tell you a little bit about this photograph.

Želim vam reći nešto o ovoj fotografiji.

I was swimming around in the Lofoten Islands in Norway,

Plivao sam oko Lofotenskih otoka u Norveškoj,

just inside the Arctic Circle,

unutar arktičkog kruga,

and the water was hovering right at freezing.

i voda se smrzavala.

The air? A brisk -10 with windchill,

Zrak? Svježih -10 s vjetrom

and I could literally feel the blood trying to leave my hands,

i doslovce sam mogao osjetiti kako mi krv želi napustiti ruke,

feet and face, and rush to protect my vital organs.

noge i lice kako bi zaštitila vitalne organe.

It was the coldest I've ever been.

Nikada mi nije bilo hladnije.

But even with swollen lips, sunken eyes, and cheeks flushed red,

Ali čak i s naotečenim usnama, ispijenih očiju i ružičastih obraza,

I have found that this place right here is somewhere I can find great joy.

shvatio sam da je ovo mjesto gdje pronalazim veliku radost.

Now, when it comes to pain, psychologist Brock Bastian

Kada se radi o boli, psiholog Brock Bastian

probably said it best when he wrote,

je vjerojatno bio u pravu kada je napisao:

"Pain is a kind of shortcut to mindfulness.

"Bol je na neki način prečac do pozornosti.

It makes us suddenly aware of everything in the environment.

Odjednom postanemo svjesni svega u okolini.

It brutally draws us in

Brutalno nas uvuče u

to a virtual sensory awareness of the world much like meditation."

virtualno čulnu svjesnost svijeta kao i meditacija."

If shivering is a form of meditation, then I would consider myself a monk.

Ako je drhtanje oblik meditacije, tada se smatram redovnikom.

(Laughter)

(Smijeh)

Now, before we get into the why

Sad, prije nego krenemo s

would anyone ever want to surf in freezing cold water?

razlozima zašto bi itko želio surfati u ledeno hladnoj vodi,

I would love to give you a little perspective

volio bih vam dati perspektivu

on what a day in my life can look like.

kako izgleda jedan dan u mom životu.

(Music)

(Glazba)

(Video) Man: I mean, I know we were hoping for good waves,

(Video) "Znam da smo se danas nadali dobrim valovima,

but I don't think anybody thought that was going to happen.

ali nitko nije mislio da će se ovo dogoditi.

I can't stop shaking.

Ne mogu se prestati tresti.

I am so cold.

Tako mi je hladno."

(Music)

(Glazba)

(Applause)

(Pljesak)

Chris Burkard: So, surf photographer, right?

Znači, surferski fotograf?

I don't even know if it's a real job title, to be honest.

Ne znam je li to naziv za pravi posao, da budem iskren.

My parents definitely didn't think so

Moji roditelji definitivno to nisu mislili

when I told them at 19 I was quitting my job to pursue this dream career:

kada sam im s 19 godine rekao da ću ostavit posao kako bi krenuo za snom:

blue skies, warm tropical beaches, and a tan that lasts all year long.

plava neba, tople tropske plaže i tamna koža tijekom cijele godine.

I mean, to me, this was it. Life could not get any better.

Mislim, meni je to bilo to. Život nije mogao biti bolji.

Sweating it out, shooting surfers in these exotic tourist destinations.

Nervoza, fotkanje surfera u egzotičnim destinacijama.

But there was just this one problem.

Ali postojao je jedan problem.

You see, the more time I spent traveling to these exotic locations,

Vidite, što sam više putovao u te egzotične lokacije,

the less gratifying it seemed to be.

manje su mi zadovoljstva donosile.

I set out seeking adventure, and what I was finding was only routine.

Tražio sam avanturu, a nalazio samo rutinu.

It was things like wi-fi, TV, fine dining, and a constant cellular connection

Wi-fi, TV, fina klopa i konstantna mobilna povezanost

that to me were all the trappings of places heavily touristed

su meni bile klopke mjesta preplavljenih turistima,

in and out of the water,

izvan i u vodi,

and it didn't take long for me to start feeling suffocated.

i nije dugo trajalo da me to počne gušiti.

I began craving wild, open spaces,

Počeo sam žuditi za divljim, otvorenim prostorima

and so I set out to find the places others had written off

i tako sam počeo tražiti mjesta koja su drugi otpisali kao

as too cold, too remote, and too dangerous to surf,

previše hladne, previše daleke i previše opasne za surfanje,

and that challenge intrigued me.

i taj izazov me zaintrigirao.

I began this sort of personal crusade against the mundane,

Krenuo sam u taj osobni križarski rat protiv svakodnevice,

because if there's one thing I've realized,

jer ako sam išta shvatio,

it's that any career,

je da svaka karijera,

even one as seemingly glamorous as surf photography,

čak i ona naizgled glamurozna, surferskog fotografa,

has the danger of becoming monotonous.

može postati monotona.

So in my search to break up this monotony, I realized something:

U mojoj potrazi za razbijanjem monotonije, shvatio sam da

There's only about a third of the Earth's oceans that are warm,

je samo jedna trećina Zemljinih oceana topla,

and it's really just that thin band around the equator.

radi se o uskom pojasu oko ekvatora.

So if I was going to find perfect waves,

Znači, ako želim pronaći savršene valove,

it was probably going to happen somewhere cold,

vjerojatno će to biti negdje gdje je hladno,

where the seas are notoriously rough,

gdje su mora zloglasno gruba

and that's exactly where I began to look.

i točno ondje sam krenuo s potragom.

And it was my first trip to Iceland

Na mom prvom izletu na Island sam

that I felt like I found exactly what I was looking for.

se osjećao kao da sam pronašao točno ono što sam tražio.

I was blown away by the natural beauty of the landscape,

Ostao sam zapanjen prirodnom ljepotom pejzaža,

but most importantly, I couldn't believe we were finding perfect waves

ali što je važnije, nisam mogao vjerovati da smo našli savršene valove

in such a remote and rugged part of the world.

u tako udaljenom i neravnom dijelu svijeta.

At one point, we got to the beach

Jednom smo na plaži pronašli

only to find massive chunks of ice had piled on the shoreline.

ogromne gromade leda nagomilane na obali.

They created this barrier between us and the surf,

Bile su poput prepreka između nas i surfanja,

and we had to weave through this thing like a maze

pa smo ih zaobilazili kao da smo u labirintu,

just to get out into the lineup.

samo kako bismo stali u red.

and once we got there,

Kada smo stigli tamo,

we were pushing aside these ice chunks trying to get into waves.

gurali smo te gromade na stranu kako bismo zajahali valove.

It was an incredible experience, one I'll never forget,

To je bilo nevjerojatno iskustvo, koje nikada neću zaboraviti,

because amidst those harsh conditions,

jer sam usprkos okrutnim uvjetima,

I felt like I stumbled onto one of the last quiet places,

osjećao kao da sam pronašao jedno od posljednjih tihih mjesta,

somewhere that I found a clarity and a connection with the world

gdje sam pronašao lucidnost i vezu sa svijetom,

I knew I would never find on a crowded beach.

koju nikada ne bih našao na plaži prepunoj ljudi.

I was hooked. I was hooked. (Laughter)

I navukao sam se. Navukao sam se. (Smijeh)

Cold water was constantly on my mind,

Hladna voda mi je stalno bila na umu

and from that point on,

i od tog trenutka,

my career focused on these types of harsh and unforgiving environments,

fokus moje karijere je taj tip okrutnog okoliša koji ne prašta.

and it took me to places like Russia, Norway, Alaska, Iceland, Chile,

To me odvelo u Rusiju, Norvešku, Aljasku, Island, Čile

the Faroe Islands, and a lot of places in between.

Farske otoke i puno mjesta između.

And one of my favorite things about these places

A najdraža stvar kod njih je

was simply the challenge and the creativity it took just to get there:

sam izazov i kreativnost koju je bilo potrebno uložiti kako bih došao tamo,

hours, days, weeks spent on Google Earth

sati, dani, tjedni provedeni na Google Earthu,

trying to pinpoint any remote stretch of beach or reef we could actually get to.

pokušavajući odrediti neku udaljenu plažu ili greben.

And once we got there, the vehicles were just as creative:

I kada bismo došli tamo, prometala su bila jednako kreativna:

snowmobiles, six-wheel Soviet troop carriers,

sledovi, šesterokotačni sovjetski nosači trupa

and a couple of super-sketchy helicopter flights.

i nekoliko super-škakljivih helikopterskih letova.

(Laughter)

(Smijeh)

Helicopters really scare me, by the way.

Inače, helikopteri me straše.

There was this one particularly bumpy boat ride

Za vrijeme jedne nezgodne vožnje brodom, uz obalu

up the coast of Vancouver Island to this kind of remote surf spot,

otoka Vancouver prema jednom izdvojenom mjestu za surfanje,

where we ended up watching helplessly from the water

gledali smo bespomoćno iz vode

as bears ravaged our camp site.

dok su nam medvjedi rasturili kamp.

They walked off with our food and bits of our tent,

Odnijeli su nam hranu i komade šatora,

clearly letting us know that we were at the bottom of the food chain

dajući nam do znanja da smo tu mi na dnu prehrambenog lanaca

and that this was their spot, not ours.

i da je ovo njihovo mjesto, ne naše.

But to me, that trip

Ali meni je taj izlet

was a testament to the wildness I traded for those touristy beaches.

bio pokazatelj divljine koju sam odabrao umjesto turističkih plaža.

Now, it wasn't until I traveled to Norway -- (Laughter) --

E sad, sve do putovanja u Norvešku, (smijeh)

that I really learned to appreciate the cold.

nisam naučio cijeniti hladnoću.

So this is the place

Ovo je mjesto

where some of the largest, the most violent storms in the world

gdje jedne od najvećih, najzlokobnijih oluja na svijetu

send huge waves smashing into the coastline.

stvaraju ogromne valove koji razaraju obaju.

We were in this tiny, remote fjord, just inside the Arctic Circle.

Bili smo u ovom sitnom, udaljenom fjordu, unutar Arktičkog kruga.

It had a greater population of sheep than people,

Ondje je više je ovaca nego ljudi,

so help if we needed it was nowhere to be found.

i u slučaju da nam je bila potrebna pomoć, teško bismo je našli.

I was in the water taking pictures of surfers,

Bio sam u vodi i slikao surfere,

and it started to snow.

kada je počelo sniježiti.

And then the temperature began to drop.

I temperatura je počela padati.

And I told myself, there's not a chance you're getting out of the water.

I rekao sam si da nema šanse da izađem iz vode.

You traveled all this way, and this is exactly what you've been waiting for:

Putovao sam sve do ovdje i ovo je točno ono što sam čekao:

freezing cold conditions with perfect waves.

ledeno hladni uvjeti sa savršenim valovima.

And although I couldn't even feel my finger to push the trigger,

Iako nisam mogao niti osjetiti prst kako pritišće okidač,

I knew I wasn't getting out.

znao sam da ne izlazim van.

So I just did whatever I could. I shook it off, whatever.

Zato sam činio što sam mogao. Stresao sam se, bilo što.

But that was the point that I felt

U tom trenu sam osjetio

this wind gush through the valley and hit me,

nalet vjetra u udolini kako me udara,

and what started as this light snowfall quickly became a full-on blizzard,

a ono što je počelo kao lagano padanje snijega, brzo se pretvorilo u pravu mećavu,

and I started to lose perception of where I was.

i počeo sam gubiti pojam o tome gdje sam.

I didn't know if I was drifting out to sea or towards shore,

Nisam znao plutam li prema moru ili prema obali,

and all I could really make out was the faint sound of seagulls

a jedino sam mogao razaznati nejasan zvuk galebova

and crashing waves.

i valove kako se razbijaju o obalu.

Now, I knew this place had a reputation for sinking ships and grounding planes,

Znao sam da ovo mjesto ima reputaciju potapanja brodova i prizemljivanja aviona,

and while I was out there floating, I started to get a little bit nervous.

a dok sam tako plutao, postajao sam pomalo nervozan.

(Smijeh)

Actually, I was totally freaking out --

Zapravo, potpuno sam ludio,

(Laughter) -- and I was borderline hypothermic,

(smijeh) i bio sam na granici hipotermije(pothlađenosti),

and my friends eventually had to help me out of the water.

i prijatelji su me morali izvući iz vode.

And I don't know if it was delirium setting in or what,

Ne znam jesam li bio u bunilu ili što,

but they told me later

ali kasnije su mi rekli

I had a smile on my face the entire time.

da sam čitavo vrijeme imao osmijeh na licu.

Now, it was this trip

Upravo ovo putovanje

and probably that exact experience where I really began to feel

i vjerojatno sam se baš zbog ovog iskustva sam počeo osjećati

like every photograph was precious,

koliko je svaka fotografija dragocjena,

because all of a sudden in that moment, it was something I was forced to earn.

jer sam odjednom, u tome trenutku, bio prisiljen zaraditi tu fotografiju.

And I realized, all this shivering had actually taught me something:

I shvatio sam, svo to drhtenje me zapravo naučio nešto:

In life, there are no shortcuts to joy.

u životu ne postoje prečaci za sreću.

Anything that is worth pursuing is going to require us to suffer

Sve što vrijedi slijediti zahtijevati će od vas

just a little bit,

da barem malo patite,

and that tiny bit of suffering that I did for my photography,

a to malo patnje koju sam učinio za svoju fotografiju,

it added a value to my work that was so much more meaningful to me

je dalo vrijednost mome radu koja mi je imala puno više smisla

than just trying to fill the pages of magazines.

od pukog punjenja stranica časopisa.

See, I gave a piece of myself in these places,

Jer, vidite, dao sam dio sebe na tim mjestima,

and what I walked away with

a otišao sam

was a sense of fulfillment I had always been searching for.

s osjećajem ispunjenja koji sam uvijek tražio.

So I look back at this photograph.

Kada ponovno gledam ovu fotografiju,

It's easy to see frozen fingers and cold wetsuits

lako je vidjeti smrznute prste i hladno odijelo za ronjenje,

and even the struggle that it took just to get there,

čak i borbu kako bismo došli do tamo,

but most of all, what I see is just joy.

ali prvenstveno vidim zadovoljstvo.

Thank you so much.

Hvala vam puno.

(Applause)

(Pljesak)