Holly Morris: Why stay in Chernobyl? Because it's home.

70,144 views ・ 2013-10-31

TED


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譯者: Marssi Draw 審譯者: Geoff Chen
00:12
Three years ago, I was standing about a hundred yards
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三年前,我站在距離
00:15
from Chernobyl nuclear reactor number four.
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車諾比第四號核子反應爐大約一百碼外。
00:19
My Geiger counter dosimeter, which measures radiation,
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我的蓋革放射量測定器,用來測量輻射量,
00:22
was going berserk,
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指數狂飆,
00:23
and the closer I got, the more frenetic it became,
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當我越接近,機器的反應越激烈,
00:27
and frantic. My God.
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我的天。
00:30
I was there covering the 25th anniversary
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我當時在那裡播報
00:32
of the world's worst nuclear accident,
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世上最嚴重的核災事故 25 週年報導,
00:35
as you can see by the look on my face,
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你可以看到我臉上的表情,
00:37
reluctantly so, but with good reason,
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不太情願,但是我有個好理由,
00:40
because the nuclear fire that burned for 11 days
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因為 1986 年時核火災延燒了 11 天,
00:44
back in 1986 released 400 times as much radiation
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釋放的輻射量大約是
投擲在廣島的原子彈的 400 倍,
00:48
as the bomb dropped on Hiroshima,
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00:50
and the sarcophagus, which is the covering
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而用來覆蓋
00:53
over reactor number four,
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第四號反應爐的「石棺」
00:54
which was hastily built 27 years ago,
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在 27 年前匆促完成,
00:57
now sits cracked and rusted
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現在已破裂、生鏽,
00:59
and leaking radiation.
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並且釋出輻射。
01:01
So I was filming.
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當時我在拍攝,
01:03
I just wanted to get the job done
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只想把工作完成,
01:04
and get out of there fast.
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趕快離開現場。
01:07
But then, I looked into the distance,
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在那當下,我望向遠方,
01:09
and I saw some smoke coming from a farmhouse,
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看到農舍上冉冉昇起的炊煙。
01:12
and I'm thinking, who could be living here?
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我想,誰會住在這裡?
01:15
I mean, after all, Chernobyl's soil, water and air,
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我的意思是畢竟車諾比的泥土、水和空氣
01:18
are among the most highly contaminated on Earth,
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是世界上受到最嚴重污染的地方之一,
01:21
and the reactor sits at the the center of
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而反應爐座落在
01:23
a tightly regulated exclusion zone, or dead zone,
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嚴密管制禁區的中央,或者說是死亡禁區,
01:26
and it's a nuclear police state, complete with border guards.
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那是一個核能警察國家,有邊防警察。
01:30
You have to have dosimeter at all times, clicking away,
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你得時時刻刻帶著放射量測定器,
01:32
you have to have a government minder,
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你得要有政府官員陪同,
01:34
and there's draconian radiation rules
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而且還有很嚴格的輻射法規,
01:37
and constant contamination monitoring.
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以及不間斷的污染監測。
01:41
The point being, no human being
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重點是,沒有人
01:44
should be living anywhere near the dead zone.
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可以住在靠近死亡禁區的任何一個角落。
01:46
But they are.
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但是他們卻住在那裡。
01:48
It turns out an unlikely community
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結果是一群不太像社區的
01:51
of some 200 people are living inside the zone.
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200 人住在裡面,
01:54
They're called self-settlers.
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他們被稱為自主移居者。
01:56
And almost all of them are women,
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他們幾乎全都是女性,
01:59
the men having shorter lifespans
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男性的壽命較短
02:00
in part due to overuse of alcohol, cigarettes,
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有一部分是因為他們飲酒過量、抽煙,
02:03
if not radiation.
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如果排除輻射因素的話。
02:05
Hundreds of thousands of people were evacuated
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在意外發生時
02:07
at the time of the accident,
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有成千上萬人被撤離,
02:09
but not everybody accepted that fate.
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但不是每個人都接受這樣的命運安排。
02:11
The women in the zone, now in their 70s and 80s,
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住在禁區的女性現在大概 7、80 歲,
02:14
are the last survivors of a group who defied authorities
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是最後一批違反公權力的倖存者,
02:17
and, it would seem, common sense,
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對他們來說這就像常識,
02:19
and returned to their ancestral homes inside the zone.
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回到他們在禁區裡的故鄉。
02:23
They did so illegally.
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這麼做其實是違法的。
02:25
As one woman put it to a soldier
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其中一名女性
02:27
who was trying to evacuate her for a second time,
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向第二次要驅離她的士兵表明:
02:30
"Shoot me and dig the grave.
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「一槍斃了我,然後幫我挖個墳。
02:32
Otherwise, I'm going home."
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否則我要回家了。」
02:34
Now why would they return to such deadly soil?
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那麼為什麼他們要 回到如此致命的土地上呢?
02:37
I mean, were they unaware of the risks
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我的意思是,他們有意識到這些風險嗎?
02:39
or crazy enough to ignore them, or both?
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或是他們瘋狂到可以忽略這個事實? 還是說兩者都是?
02:42
The thing is, they see their lives
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重點是,他們肯定用很不同的方式
02:43
and the risks they run decidedly differently.
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看待自己的生命和要冒的險。
02:47
Now around Chernobyl, there are scattered ghost villages,
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如今車諾比附近到處是毫無人煙的村莊,
02:50
eerily silent, strangely charming, bucolic,
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靜得嚇人,詭譎迷人的氣息,一片荒蕪,
02:54
totally contaminated.
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完全受到污染。
02:56
Many were bulldozed under at the time of the accident,
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在那次的意外中有許多房屋被剷平,
02:59
but a few are left like this,
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但是有一些遺留下來,就像這樣,
03:01
kind of silent vestiges to the tragedy.
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有點像是災難過後的死寂遺跡。
03:05
Others have a few residents in them,
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有一些居民住在這樣的房屋裡,
03:07
one or two "babushkas," or "babas,"
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一到兩位「巴布希卡」(babushka) 或「巴巴」(baba),
03:10
which are the Russian and Ukrainian words for grandmother.
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在俄語和烏克蘭語中指的是祖母。
03:13
Another village might have six or seven residents.
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另一個村莊也許有六到七個居民,
03:16
So this is the strange demographic of the zone --
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因此成了這個地區中特異的人口分布:
03:19
isolated alone together.
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孤零零的獨居與聚集。
03:21
And when I made my way to that piping chimney
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當我往前走向在遠處看見那個
03:24
I'd seen in the distance,
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冒著煙的煙囪,
03:25
I saw Hanna Zavorotnya, and I met her.
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我看到漢娜.沃洛纽克,向前和她接觸。
03:29
She's the self-declared mayor of Kapavati village,
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她是卡拉瓦帝村莊的自立村長,
03:32
population eight.
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管轄八個人。
03:34
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
03:36
And she said to me, when I asked her the obvious,
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在我提出顯而易見的問題時,她告訴我:
03:39
"Radiation doesn't scare me. Starvation does."
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「輻射嚇不了我,餓肚子才會。」
03:43
And you have to remember, these women have
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你得要記得,這些女性
03:44
survived the worst atrocities of the 20th century.
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從 20 世紀最惡劣的環境中活過來了。
03:48
Stalin's enforced famines of the 1930s, the Holodomor,
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史達林在 1930 年代引起的烏克蘭大飢荒,
03:52
killed millions of Ukrainians,
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造成上百萬名烏克蘭人死亡;
03:54
and they faced the Nazis in the '40s,
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而且他們在 1940 年代歷經納粹人
03:56
who came through slashing, burning, raping,
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虐待、焚燒、性侵的暴行,
03:59
and in fact many of these women
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而且事實上,其中有許多女性
04:00
were shipped to Germany as forced labor.
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被運到德國做苦力。
04:03
So when a couple decades into Soviet rule,
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因此在蘇維埃政權生活數十年後
04:06
Chernobyl happened,
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發生了車諾比事件,
04:07
they were unwilling to flee in the face of an enemy
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他們不願意因為這個
04:10
that was invisible.
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看不見的敵人而離開。
04:12
So they returned to their villages
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因此他們回到自己的村莊,
04:14
and are told they're going to get sick and die soon,
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被告知會在短期內生病、死亡,
04:18
but five happy years, their logic goes,
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但是過了五年快樂的日子, 他們理所當然認為
04:20
is better than 10 stuck in a high rise
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這總好過十年被困在
04:23
on the outskirts of Kiev,
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基輔郊區的高樓裡,
04:25
separated from the graves of their mothers
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這總好過被迫離開他們父母
04:27
and fathers and babies,
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和孩子的墳墓,
04:29
the whisper of stork wings on a spring afternoon.
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還有鸛鳥在春天午後翱翔時的吟唱聲。
04:33
For them, environmental contamination
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對他們來說,環境的污染
04:35
may not be the worst sort of devastation.
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也許不是最悲慘的蹂躪。
04:38
It turns out this holds true
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結果對其它物種來說
04:39
for other species as well.
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也同樣如此。
04:41
Wild boar, lynx, moose, they've all returned
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大批的野豬、山貓、麋鹿都回到
04:44
to the region in force,
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這個地區,
04:46
the very real, very negative effects of radiation
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輻射造成的真實又消極影響
04:49
being trumped by the upside of a mass exodus
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已被一大群移出者
04:53
of humans.
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戰勝了。
04:55
The dead zone, it turns out, is full of life.
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死亡禁區反而變得欣欣向榮,
04:59
And there is a kind of heroic resilience,
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有一種如英雄般的韌性,
05:02
a kind of plain-spoken pragmatism to those
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一種坦率的務實存在之中,
05:05
who start their day at 5 a.m.
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他們在早上五點展開新的一天,
05:08
pulling water from a well
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從井中打水;
05:10
and end it at midnight
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結束一天的生活後,在夜裡
05:12
poised to beat a bucket with a stick
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準備劈好一桶木柴、
05:14
and scare off wild boar that might mess with their potatoes,
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嚇跑那些會踐踏馬鈴薯田的野豬,
05:17
their only company a bit of homemade moonshine vodka.
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唯一陪伴他們的是私釀伏特加。
05:22
And there's a patina of simple defiance among them.
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在他們身上有些許挑釁的神情,
05:25
"They told us our legs would hurt, and they do. So what?"
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「他們說我的腳會受傷, 還真的受傷了,但是那又如何?」
05:29
I mean, what about their health?
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然而,他們的身體健康嗎?
05:31
The benefits of hardy, physical living,
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擁有身強體壯和物質生活的好處,
05:34
but an environment made toxic
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但是身在有毒的環境,
05:35
by a complicated, little-understood enemy, radiation.
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面對一個複雜、所知甚少的敵人:輻射。
05:39
It's incredibly difficult to parse.
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這個問題實在很難釐清。
05:41
Health studies from the region
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針對那個地區做的健康研究
05:43
are conflicting and fraught.
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都很矛盾又漏洞百出。
05:46
The World Health Organization
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世界衛生組織
05:47
puts the number of Chernobyl-related deaths
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估計與車諾比事件相關的
05:50
at 4,000, eventually.
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死亡人數有 4,000 人。
05:52
Greenpeace and other organizations
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綠色和平和其它組織
05:55
put that number in the tens of thousands.
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估計有上萬人。
05:58
Now everybody agrees that thyroid cancers
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現在每個人都同意 甲狀腺癌的罹患率奇高,
06:01
are sky high, and that Chernobyl evacuees
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在車諾比事件中的撤離者
06:04
suffer the trauma of relocated peoples everywhere:
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飽受重新安置的創傷之苦:
06:07
higher levels of anxiety, depression, alcoholism,
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更嚴重的焦慮、沮喪、酗酒、
06:10
unemployment and, importantly,
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失業,還有更重要的是
06:12
disrupted social networks.
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社交圈瓦解。
06:15
Now, like many of you,
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現在,就像在座的你們一樣,
06:18
I have moved maybe 20, 25 times in my life.
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我這輩子大概搬了 20、25 次家,
06:22
Home is a transient concept.
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家是一種短暫的概念。
06:26
I have a deeper connection to my laptop
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相較於任何一片土地,
06:28
than any bit of soil.
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我和我的筆電有更深刻的連結。
06:32
So it's hard for us to understand, but home
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這對我們來說很難理解,但是家的概念
06:35
is the entire cosmos of the rural babushka,
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就是這群村婦的全世界,
06:38
and connection to the land is palpable.
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與土地的連結是顯而易見的。
06:41
And perhaps because these Ukrainian women
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也許是因為這些烏克蘭婦女
06:43
were schooled under the Soviets
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在蘇維埃政權下接受教育,
06:45
and versed in the Russian poets,
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熟讀俄國詩歌
06:47
aphorisms about these ideas
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和格言,與這些相關的觀念
06:49
slip from their mouths all the time.
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隨時都能輕易地從她們口中頌出。
06:51
"If you leave, you die."
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「如果你離開,就會逝去。」
06:54
"Those who left are worse off now.
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「那些離開的人處境每況愈下,
06:56
They are dying of sadness."
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他們都悲傷地死去。」
06:58
"Motherland is motherland. I will never leave."
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「家鄉就是家鄉,我永遠都不會離開。」
07:02
What sounds like faith, soft faith,
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那些聽起來像是信念,溫柔的信念,
07:05
may actually be fact,
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也許才是事實,
07:09
because the surprising truth --
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因為那些出乎意料之外的真相——
07:10
I mean, there are no studies, but the truth seems to be
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畢竟沒有任何研究證明,只是真相似乎是
07:13
that these women who returned to their homes
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那些回到家鄉的婦女
07:15
and have lived on some of the most radioactive land
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至今生活在這片全世界
07:17
on Earth for the last 27 years,
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最高放射污染的土地上已長達 27 年,
07:19
have actually outlived their counterparts
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相較於與她們有同樣處境,
07:22
who accepted relocation,
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但是接受安置的人們,
07:24
by some estimates up to 10 years.
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她們的壽命預估多於十年。
07:28
How could this be?
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這怎麼可能?
07:30
Here's a theory: Could it be
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有一個理論是:有沒有可能
07:32
that those ties to ancestral soil,
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那些與祖先土地的連結,
07:35
the soft variables reflected in their aphorisms,
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那些在他們的格言中展現的可變因子,
07:37
actually affect longevity?
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其實也影響了壽命?
07:40
The power of motherland
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家鄉的力量
07:42
so fundamental to that part of the world
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對那部分的世界來說如此重要,
07:45
seems palliative.
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似乎能夠帶來療癒。
07:46
Home and community are forces
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家與社群是一種力量,
07:49
that rival even radiation.
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即使連輻射都能抵抗。
07:53
Now radiation or not,
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不管有沒有輻射,
07:56
these women are at the end of their lives.
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這些婦女都走到了她們的生命盡頭。
07:58
In the next decade, the zone's human residents will be gone,
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未來十年,禁區的居民都會過世,
08:02
and it will revert to a wild, radioactive place,
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這片土地會恢復為荒野,有輻射的地方,
08:07
full only of animals and occasionally
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只有滿滿的動物和偶爾出現
08:10
daring, flummoxed scientists.
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膽大又困惑的科學家。
08:13
But the spirit and existence of the babushkas,
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但是這些老奶奶的精神與生活方式
08:16
whose numbers have been halved
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──儘管在我認識她們的三年中
08:18
in the three years I've known them,
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人數已減少了一半──
08:20
will leave us with powerful new templates
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將留給我們強而有力的新模式,
08:22
to think about and grapple with,
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讓我們得以省思 風險的相對涵義,
08:24
about the relative nature of risk,
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讓我們得以攫取 一種變遷中的
08:28
about transformative connections to home,
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家的聯繫,
08:31
and about the magnificent tonic
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也讓我們得以反思,並且獲得
08:35
of personal agency and self-determination.
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那滋養個人決心的動力。
08:39
Thank you.
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謝謝!
08:41
(Applause)
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(掌聲)
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