Carolyn Steel: How food shapes our cities

翻译人员: Aileen Huang 校对人员: Jenny Yang

How do you feed a city?

如何喂养一个城市？

It's one of the great questions of our time.

这是我们这个时代的一个重大问题之一。

Yet it's one that's rarely asked.

然而很少人会问这个问题。

We take it for granted that if we go into a shop

我们习以为常了， 我们走进商店的时候

or restaurant, or indeed into this theater's foyer in about an hour's time,

走进餐厅的时候，或是一个小时后我们进入这个剧院的门厅

there is going to be food there waiting for us,

总会有食物等着我们

having magically come from somewhere.

它们很神奇地从某个地方冒出来

But when you think that every day for a city the size of London,

然而，当你想像每一天，在一个伦敦那么大的城市，

enough food has to be produced,

要生产足够的食物

transported, bought and sold,

运输、交易这些食物，

cooked, eaten, disposed of,

烹饪，食用，最后扔弃它们

and that something similar has to happen every day

而且类似的事情每天都发生着

for every city on earth,

在地球上的每一个城市都如此

it's remarkable that cities get fed at all.

每个城市都有食物供应，这件事很不可思议

We live in places like this as if

我们住在每天有食物供应的城市，仿佛

they're the most natural things in the world,

这是世界上最自然的事情，

forgetting that because we're animals

我们忘记了我们也是动物，

and that we need to eat,

所以我们需要进食，

we're actually as dependent on the natural world

事实上我们要依赖自然界

as our ancient ancestors were.

就如同我们的祖先要依赖自然界一样。

And as more of us move into cities,

随着我们越来越多人到城市生活，

more of that natural world is being

越来越多的自然界正在

transformed into extraordinary landscapes like the one behind me --

变成我身后的这些特别的景象

it's soybean fields in Mato Grosso in Brazil --

这是巴西Mata Grosso的大豆田

in order to feed us.

用来种食物养活我们

These are extraordinary landscapes,

这些特别的景象

but few of us ever get to see them.

我们很少人亲眼目睹过

And increasingly these landscapes

越来越多的这些地貌

are not just feeding us either.

不只是生产食物养活我们

As more of us move into cities,

随着我们越来越多人移居城市

more of us are eating meat,

越来越多人吃肉

so that a third of the annual grain crop globally

所以每年全球有三分之一的粮食

now gets fed to animals

现在是用来喂动物

rather than to us human animals.

而不是喂养我们人类

And given that it takes three times as much grain --

虽然说需要3倍的粮食

actually ten times as much grain --

事实上却是10倍的食物

to feed a human if it's passed through an animal first,

来喂养一个人，如果从喂养动物的粮食也计算在内

that's not a very efficient way of feeding us.

这并不是一个很有效率的喂养方式

And it's an escalating problem too.

这是一个越来越重要的问题

By 2050, it's estimated that twice the number

到2050年,预测有两倍的人口

of us are going to be living in cities.

将在城市居住

And it's also estimated that there is going to be twice as much

预测到也将需要两倍的

meat and dairy consumed.

肉和奶类制品的消耗

So meat and urbanism are rising hand in hand.

所以肉的消耗和城市化是共同发展的

And that's going to pose an enormous problem.

这就将引发一个很重大的问题

Six billion hungry carnivores to feed,

要喂养60亿的饥饿人口

by 2050.

在2050年

That's a big problem. And actually if we carry on as we are,

这是个大问题.如果我们还像我们现在这么发展,

it's a problem we're very unlikely to be able to solve.

我们很可能没法在2050年解决这个问题

Nineteen million hectares of rainforest are lost every year

每年有1900万公顷的雨林消失

to create new arable land.

它们用作开垦新的耕地

Although at the same time we're losing an equivalent amount

尽管与此同时我们也失去等量的

of existing arables to salinization and erosion.

现有耕地,因为盐碱化或水土流失

We're very hungry for fossil fuels too.

我们也急需化石燃料

It takes about 10 calories to produce every calorie

在欧洲，我们需要10卡路里的能量来生产1卡路里

of food that we consume in the West.

为我们消耗的食物

And even though there is food that we are producing at great cost,

尽管这些食物我们都是花了很多功夫才生产出来

we don't actually value it.

事实上我们却不珍惜它们

Half the food produced in the USA is currently thrown away.

在美国有一半食物被扔弃

And to end all of this, at the end of this long process,

最终,在这漫长过程的最后

we're not even managing to feed the planet properly.

我们将没法养活我们这个地球

A billion of us are obese, while a further billion starve.

我们中10亿人肥胖,还有多于10亿的人处于饥饿中

None of it makes very much sense.

这些都没有道理

And when you think that 80 percent of global trade in food now

当你发现现在80%的全球食物贸易

is controlled by just five multinational corporations,

仅由五家跨国公司控制,

it's a grim picture.

这是挺可怕的

As we're moving into cities, the world is also embracing a Western diet.

随着我们搬进城市,世界正在接受西方的饮食

And if we look to the future,

如果我们展望未来

it's an unsustainable diet.

这不是个可持续的饮食方式

So how did we get here?

我们怎么会走到这一步?

And more importantly, what are we going to do about it?

更重要的是,我们应该怎么做?

Well, to answer the slightly easier question first,

先回答那个较简单的问题,首先

about 10,000 years ago, I would say,

我想说,在大概1万年前

is the beginning of this process

是这个过程的开始

in the ancient Near East,

在古代的中东地区

known as the Fertile Crescent.

也就是广大的新月状的地区

Because, as you can see, it was crescent shaped.

因为你可以看到它是新月形的

And it was also fertile.

同时它也是广大的

And it was here, about 10,000 years ago,

就在这里,大概1万年前

that two extraordinary inventions,

2大伟大的发明

agriculture and urbanism, happened

农业和城市化在此发生

roughly in the same place and at the same time.

几乎在同时,同一地点

This is no accident,

这并不是偶然

because agriculture and cities are bound together. They need each other.

因为农业和城市是紧密联系的.它们需要彼此

Because it was discovery of grain

因为粮食的发现

by our ancient ancestors for the first time

我们的远古祖先,第一次

that produced a food source that was large enough

第一次生产出足够的粮食

and stable enough to support permanent settlements.

并且产量稳地，这帮助他们长期居住下来

And if we look at what those settlements were like,

如果我们看一下当时那些居住地

we see they were compact.

我们可以看到他们是紧密的

They were surrounded by productive farm land

他们被农田围绕

and dominated by large temple complexes

并由一些大的庙宇统领着

like this one at Ur,

例如这一个在乌尔的神殿

that were, in fact, effectively,

事实上,他们是很有效的

spiritualized, central food distribution centers.

精神统领,食物分发中心，两者结合

Because it was the temples that organized the harvest,

因为这些神殿组织耕作

gathered in the grain, offered it to the gods,

收集这些粮食,供奉给诸神

and then offered the grain that the gods didn't eat back to the people.

然后把诸神没吃的食物发还给人们

So, if you like,

所以

the whole spiritual and physical life of these cities

这些城市的精神和物质生活

was dominated by the grain and the harvest

都用粮食和收成掌控

that sustained them.

并维持城市的生活

And in fact, that's true of every ancient city.

事实上，过去的每个城市都是如此

But of course not all of them were that small.

当然，并不是每个都是那么小的城市

Famously, Rome had about a million citizens

比如很著名的罗马城有大约100万居民

by the first century A.D.

在公元一世纪的之前

So how did a city like this feed itself?

那么，这样的城市是如何维持供给的呢？

The answer is what I call "ancient food miles."

在我眼里，我把答案称作“古老的城市之路”

Basically, Rome had access to the sea,

基本上，罗马有通往海洋的道路

which made it possible for it to import food from a very long way away.

这样使从很远的地方进口食物成为可能

This is the only way it was possible to do this in the ancient world,

这样是在古代能实现的唯一的方法

because it was very difficult to transport food over roads,

因为陆上运输相当困难

which were rough.

鉴于路况不好

And the food obviously went off very quickly.

而且食物的消耗是很快的

So Rome effectively waged war

所以罗马常常发动战争

on places like Carthage and Egypt

攻打像迦太基和埃及那样的国家

just to get its paws on their grain reserves.

仅仅是为了得到他们的粮食储备

And, in fact, you could say that the expansion of the Empire

其实，事实上，你可以把帝国的扩张

was really sort of one long, drawn out

理解为一种长期的

militarized shopping spree, really.

军事化的购物狂欢

(Laughter)

（笑）

In fact -- I love the fact, I just have to mention this:

事实上，我喜欢这个事实。我不得不指出的是

Rome in fact used to import oysters from London,

罗马（从英国进口牡蛎）

at one stage. I think that's extraordinary.

在一个时期。我认为这非常特别

So Rome shaped its hinterland

所以罗马形成自己的海岸线

through its appetite.

根据他的口味

But the interesting thing is that the other thing also

但是还有一件有趣的事情

happened in the pre-industrial world.

发生在前工业化的世界

If we look at a map of London in the 17th century,

如果我们看看十七世纪伦敦的地图

we can see that its grain, which is coming in from the Thames,

我们可以看见作物从泰晤士河畔出产的

along the bottom of this map.

位于地图的底部

So the grain markets were to the south of the city.

因为市场在城市的南部

And the roads leading up from them

道路从那里

to Cheapside, which was the main market,

通向主要消费市场戚普塞街(位于伦敦)

were also grain markets.

这里也是粮食的主要消费市场

And if you look at the name of one of those streets,

如果我们随便看看这里的一条街道的名字

Bread Street, you can tell

BREAD（面包）街，你可以明白

what was going on there 300 years ago.

三百年前这里都发生了什么

And the same of course was true for fish.

这个道理同样使用于鱼类

Fish was, of course, coming in by river as well. Same thing.

鱼当然是从河里面打捞出来的

And of course Billingsgate, famously, was London's fish market,

Billlingsgate是伦敦有名的卖鱼市场

operating on-site here until the mid-1980s.

在1980年之前

Which is extraordinary, really, when you think about it.

这是很特别的，真的，当你仔细想想

Everybody else was wandering around

每个人都在这里游荡

with mobile phones that looked like bricks

拿着像转头一样的大哥大

and sort of smelly fish happening down on the port.

还有，在港口还有发臭的鱼

This is another thing about food in cities:

这是在城市中关于食物的另一件事情

Once its roots into the city are established,

一旦一种食物在某个城市站稳脚跟

they very rarely move.

它的地位很难被动摇

Meat is a very different story

肉是一个非常不同的故事了

because, of course, animals could walk into the city.

因为，动物自己走向城市

So much of London's meat

因此，伦敦消费的大量肉类

was coming from the northwest,

是从西北方过来的

from Scotland and Wales.

从苏格兰和威尔士

So it was coming in, and arriving at the city at the northwest,

当他们过来，抵达城市的西北方

which is why Smithfield,

这就说明了为什么 Smithfield

London's very famous meat market, was located up there.

伦敦一个非常有名的肉类市场，在这里产生

Poultry was coming in from East Anglia and so on, to the northeast.

家禽从Anglia的东部来，去往东北部

I feel a bit like a weather woman doing this. Anyway,

我感觉这有点像一个天气播报员

and so the birds were coming in

然后鸟儿都飞过来了

with their feet protected with little canvas shoes.

它们的脚被小帆布鞋包裹着

And then when they hit the eastern end

然后当它们在东部降落的时候

of Cheapside, that's where they were sold,

具体说来是在戚普塞街，也就是它们被卖掉的地方

which is why it's called Poultry.

这也就是戚普塞街被称为“家禽”街的原因

And, in fact, if you look at the map of any city

事实上，如果你看看任何一个城市的地图

built before the industrial age,

在工业化时代之前

you can trace food coming in to it.

你能够发现食物是如何进入城市的

You can actually see how it was physically shaped by food,

事实上，你可以看出食物是如何塑造一个城市的

both by reading the names of the streets, which give you a lot of clues.

通过阅读街道的名称，你就会发现很多线索

Friday Street, in a previous life,

星期五街，在过去的日子中

is where you went to buy your fish on a Friday.

是一个在星期五买鱼的地方

But also you have to imagine it full of food.

但是，你同时也必须想象那里到处都是食物

Because the streets and the public spaces

因为街道和公共区域

were the only places where food was bought and sold.

是食物买卖的唯一地点

And if we look at an image of Smithfield in 1830

如果你想象一下1830年的Smithfield

you can see that it would have been very difficult to live in a city like this

你会发现很难在这样一个城市里面生活下去

and be unaware of where your food came from.

并且不留意食物的来源

In fact, if you were having Sunday lunch,

事实上，当你在星期日吃午饭的时候

the chances were it was mooing or bleating outside your window

你将很有可能听到窗外的牛羊的叫声

about three days earlier.

在三年以前

So this was obviously an organic city,

因此，显然他是一个有机城市

part of an organic cycle.

属于有机循环中的一个部分

And then 10 years later everything changed.

但是，10年后，一切都改变了

This is an image of the Great Western in 1840.

这是大西铁路在1840的照片

And as you can see, some of the earliest train passengers

你可以看见，一些早期的铁路乘客们

were pigs and sheep.

是猪和羊群

So all of a sudden, these animals are no longer walking into market.

一夕之间，这些动物不再走进市场

They're being slaughtered out of sight and mind,

他们被屠宰了

somewhere in the countryside.

在乡村的某个地方

And they're coming into the city by rail.

然后他们通过铁路来到了城市

And this changes everything.

这些改变了一切

To start off with, it makes it possible

首先，他第一次

for the first time to grow cities,

使城市成长变成了可能

really any size and shape, in any place.

不论地点、成为什么规模和形状的城市

Cities used to be constrained by geography;

城市发展过去受到地理的限制

they used to have to get their food through very difficult physical means.

城市需要通过很艰难的方式获得食物

All of a sudden they are effectively emancipated from geography.

突然，他们从地理限制中解放了出来

And as you can see from these maps of London,

你可以看看伦敦的地图

in the 90 years after the trains came,

在铁路建成后的90年

it goes from being a little blob that was quite easy to feed

它从容易喂饱的一小点

by animals coming in on foot, and so on,

通过动物步行到市场等方式

to a large splurge,

成长成为大型的奢侈的大都市

that would be very, very difficult to feed with anybody on foot,

步行运输再也不能喂饱每个人

either animals or people.

不论是对人还是对动物

And of course that was just the beginning. After the trains came cars,

当然，这仅仅是开始。当汽车代替了火车

and really this marks the end of this process.

这真正标志这个过程的结束

It's the final emancipation of the city

这是城市的最终解放

from any apparent relationship with nature at all.

从自然的束缚中完全的解放了

And this is the kind of city that's devoid of smell,

这样类型的城市没有了原来城市的味道

devoid of mess, certainly devoid of people,

乱糟糟的市容，当然也缺少了人

because nobody would have dreamed of walking in such a landscape.

因为没有人想要在这么大的一块地方步行

In fact, what they did to get food was they got in their cars,

事实上，他们都开小汽车去购买食物了

drove to a box somewhere on the outskirts,

开车去郊外的超级市场

came back with a week's worth of shopping,

买回来一周需要的食物

and wondered what on earth to do with it.

然后考虑到底如何规划这些食品

And this really is the moment when our relationship,

这时刻，

both with food and cities, changes completely.

食物和城市的关系，完全的改变了

Here we have food -- that used to be the center,

过去买食物是在市中心

the social core of the city -- at the periphery.

在城市的最核心地带

It used to be a social event, buying and selling food.

买卖食物曾经是一种社会性的活动，

Now it's anonymous.

现在都是匿名了的

We used to cook; now we just add water,

我们原来还需要烹饪，现在我们只需要加水

or a little bit of an egg if you're making a cake or something.

或者是一些鸡蛋，当我们在做蛋糕或者其他东西的时候

We don't smell food to see if it's okay to eat.

我们不会在去闻闻食物来确认它是否可以吃了

We just read the back of a label on a packet.

我们只是阅读包装袋上的使用说明就好

And we don't value food. We don't trust it.

我们没有发现食物的价值，我们也不信赖它

So instead of trusting it, we fear it.

我们甚至担心它

And instead of valuing it, we throw it away.

从体会它的价值变成浪费

One of the great ironies of modern food systems

当今食品工业最最讽刺的是

is that they've made the very thing they promised

他们让生活极致地便利

to make easier much harder.

却也使得一切更为复杂

By making it possible to build cities anywhere and any place,

因为可以自由的建立新城市

they've actually distanced us from our most important relationship,

但是他们却疏远了人可贵的联系

which is that of us and nature.

也就是人与自然的联系

And also they've made us dependent on systems that only they can deliver,

同时，他们也让我们依赖这个系统

that, as we've seen, are unsustainable.

这个系统，在我们看来，是不可持续的

So what are we going to do about that?

所以，我们应该做点什么呢？

It's not a new question.

这不是一个新的问题

500 years ago it's what Thomas More was asking himself.

500年前，汤马斯摩尔曾经问过自己

This is the frontispiece of his book "Utopia."

这是他的书《乌托邦》的主旨

And it was a series of semi-independent city-states,

它是一个半独立的城邦

if that sounds remotely familiar,

如果这么说听上去还比较熟悉的话

a day's walk from one another where everyone was basically farming-mad,

一天的行走你会看见所有人农场都在疯狂的种植

and grew vegetables in their back gardens,

或者在自己的后院种植蔬菜

and ate communal meals together, and so on.

然后一起享用乡镇的共有食物，等等

And I think you could argue that

我认为你可能想要说

food is a fundamental ordering principle of Utopia,

食物是乌托邦维持秩序的基础

even though More never framed it that way.

尽管摩尔从来没有这么构想

And here is another very famous "Utopian" vision,

这里有一个很著名的乌托邦蓝图

that of Ebenezer Howard, "The Garden City."

来自埃比尼泽·霍华德的“花园城市”

Same idea: series of semi-independent city-states,

同样的想法。一系列半独立的城邦

little blobs of metropolitan stuff with arable land around,

小型都市被可耕地包围

joined to one another by railway.

相互之间通过铁路连接

And again, food could be said to be

当然，食物在一次被称作

the ordering principle of his vision.

维持秩序的物体，在他的版本中

It even got built, but nothing to do with

这些田园都市是有的，但与当初

this vision that Howard had.

霍华的愿景没有关系

And that is the problem with these Utopian ideas,

这也与乌托邦的构想产生了冲突

that they are Utopian.

因为他们是乌托邦（不存在的）

Utopia was actually a word that Thomas Moore used deliberately.

乌托邦实际是上一个托马斯摩尔故意使用的一个词

It was a kind of joke, because it's got a double derivation from the Greek.

这似乎是一个笑话。因为它在希腊中有两个来历

It can either mean a good place, or no place.

他既可以表示一个好的地方，也可以表示一个不存在的地方

Because it's an ideal. It's an imaginary thing. We can't have it.

因为他是一种理想。一个想象中的事物。我们不能拥有它

And I think, as a conceptual tool

我认为，这是一个观念

for thinking about the very deep problem of human dwelling,

用来深层次的思考人类居住的问题

that makes it not much use.

它不是很有用

So I've come up with an alternative,

所以我提出另一个概念

which is Sitopia, from the ancient Greek,

“希托邦”，在古希腊文中

"sitos" for food, and "topos" for place.

“希托”代表食物，“邦”是地方

I believe we already live in Sitopia.

我相信我们已经住在“希托邦”里面

We live in a world shaped by food,

这个世界是受食物影响的

and if we realize that, we can use food as a really powerful tool --

只要认清楚这个事实，食物便能成为有力的工具

a conceptual tool, design tool, to shape the world differently.

一个概念性的工具，设计工具，用来改变这个世界

So if we were to do that, what might Sitopia look like?

如果这样做，希托邦会成什么样

Well I think it looks a bit like this.

我是这样想的

I have to use this slide. It's just the look on the face of the dog.

我用投影这张照片，是因为这狗长相可爱

But anyway, this is -- (Laughter)

无论如何，在这里（笑）

it's food at the center of life,

食物是生活的重心

at the center of family life, being celebrated,

是家庭生活的重心，被赞颂

being enjoyed, people taking time for it.

被享用，你们花时间在这上面

This is where food should be in our society.

这是食物在我们社会里应有的地位

But you can't have scenes like this unless you have people like this.

但想做到这样，得先有这些人

By the way, these can be men as well.

他也可以是男的

It's people who think about food,

这些人是会想到食物的

who think ahead, who plan,

他们会预先思考，做计划

who can stare at a pile of raw vegetables

看到一堆生菜时

and actually recognize them.

知道那是什么

We need these people. We're part of a network.

我们需要这种人。我们都是整体的一部分

Because without these kinds of people we can't have places like this.

因为如果没有这样的人，就不会有这样的地方

Here, I deliberately chose this because it is a man buying a vegetable.

我故意选了这个因为这张照片显示一个人在买蔬菜

But networks, markets where food is being grown locally.

但是整体联络，食物是当地生产的

It's common. It's fresh.

他是大面积的，也是新鲜的

It's part of the social life of the city.

这是城市社会生活的一部分

Because without that, you can't have this kind of place,

因为没有它，你就不会拥有这样的地方

food that is grown locally and also is part of the landscape,

种植食物的地方也是风景的一部分

and is not just a zero-sum commodity

他不仅仅是一个消费商品

off in some unseen hell-hole.

来自看不见的黑暗角落

Cows with a view.

成片的牛群

Steaming piles of humus.

冒着水汽的肥沃土壤

This is basically bringing the whole thing together.

这才使一切变得完整

And this is a community project

这是一个集体的计划

I visited recently in Toronto.

我最近去了多伦多

It's a greenhouse, where kids get told

在这个温室里，孩子学习

all about food and growing their own food.

关于食物的知识，以及他们种植自己所需的食物

Here is a plant called Kevin, or maybe it's a

这有一颗菜叫做凯文，他也许

plant belonging to a kid called Kevin. I don't know.

属于一个叫凯文的小孩子。我不太确定

But anyway, these kinds of projects

但是不管怎么说，这类计划

that are trying to reconnect us with nature is extremely important.

是及其重要的，因为他们试图重新建立我们和自然的联系

So Sitopia, for me, is really a way of seeing.

因此，希托邦，是另一种观点

It's basically recognizing that Sitopia

基本上，我们认可在某些小地方

already exists in little pockets everywhere.

希托邦已经存在了

The trick is to join them up,

下一步就是将他们连接起来

to use food as a way of seeing.

从食物的角度看

And if we do that, we're going to stop seeing cities

如果我们这样做了，城市将不再是

as big, metropolitan, unproductive blobs, like this.

一个不从事生产的大都市，像现在一样

We're going to see them more like this,

我们将把城市

as part of the productive, organic framework

作为一个有机生产的一部分

of which they are inevitably a part,

在这种架构下，城乡之间

symbiotically connected.

以一种共生的方式连接

But of course, that's not a great image either,

但这也不是什么大理论

because we need not to be producing food like this anymore.

因为我们不需要这样的食物产出方式了

We need to be thinking more about permaculture,

我们需要更多的思考关于社区生态农业

which is why I think this image just

所以这张图

sums up for me the kind of thinking we need to be doing.

很合适来做一个结论

It's a re-conceptualization

我们需要重新思考

of the way food shapes our lives.

食物如何塑造我们的生活

The best image I know of this is from 650 years ago.

我知道的最好的方式是这张650年前的画

It's Ambrogio Lorenzetti's "Allegory of Good Government."

他是 Ambrogio Lorenzetti 提出的“优秀政府的寓言”

It's about the relationship between the city and the countryside.

他勾画出城市和乡村的关系

And I think the message of this is very clear.

我认为他想传达的思想非常清晰

If the city looks after the country,

如果城市照顾好乡村

the country will look after the city.

乡村就会帮助城市

And I want us to ask now,

我希望大家都想一想

what would Ambrogio Lorenzetti paint

如果Ambrigio Lorenzetti在今天再画一张

if he painted this image today?

他会画出怎样的图画

What would an allegory of good government look like today?

现代版“优秀政府的寓言”会是什么样子

Because I think it's an urgent question.

因为我认为这是一个紧要的问题

It's one we have to ask,

一个我们必须提出的问题

and we have to start answering.

一个我们需要马上做答的问题

We know we are what we eat.

我们知道我们吃的东西很大程度上决定了我们身体状况

We need to realize that the world is also what we eat.

所以，我们也了解我们的食物决定了世界的状况

But if we take that idea, we can use food

如果我们采纳这个想法，我们可以利用食物

as a really powerful tool to shape the world better.

作为一个强有力的工具来重新塑造世界

Thank you very much.

非常感谢

(Applause)

（掌声）