Carolyn Steel: How food shapes our cities

譯者: Wang-Ju Tsai 審譯者: Po-Chih Tsai

How do you feed a city?

如何餵飽一個城市的所有居民？

It's one of the great questions of our time.

這是現代一個大問題。

Yet it's one that's rarely asked.

但很少被提起

We take it for granted that if we go into a shop

就是很自然地, 當我們去商店

or restaurant, or indeed into this theater's foyer in about an hour's time,

餐廳，或一小時以後到戲院大廳

there is going to be food there waiting for us,

總有食物等待著我們

having magically come from somewhere.

神奇地出現

But when you think that every day for a city the size of London,

試想像倫敦這麽大的城市每天

enough food has to be produced,

要有足夠的食物被製造

transported, bought and sold,

運輸、買、賣

cooked, eaten, disposed of,

煮、吃、處置

and that something similar has to happen every day

同樣的事，日復一日

for every city on earth,

發生在每個城市裏

it's remarkable that cities get fed at all.

餵飽一座城市是相當不容易的

We live in places like this as if

對住在城市的我們

they're the most natural things in the world,

卻是稀鬆平常

forgetting that because we're animals

忘了我們也是動物

and that we need to eat,

我們也需要進食

we're actually as dependent on the natural world

我們還是依賴大自然而生

as our ancient ancestors were.

就跟我們老祖宗一樣

And as more of us move into cities,

隨著更多人遷入城市

more of that natural world is being

越來越多原始的大自然

transformed into extraordinary landscapes like the one behind me --

被開發成這樣壯觀的景色

it's soybean fields in Mato Grosso in Brazil --

這是在巴西馬托格羅索的大豆田

in order to feed us.

就為了餵飽我們

These are extraordinary landscapes,

這是十分壯觀的景色

but few of us ever get to see them.

但少有人見識過

And increasingly these landscapes

越來越廣大的田

are not just feeding us either.

卻不只用來餵飽我們

As more of us move into cities,

住城市的人越多

more of us are eating meat,

吃肉的人也越多

so that a third of the annual grain crop globally

每年全球的農作物有三分之一

now gets fed to animals

是拿去餵家畜

rather than to us human animals.

而不是直接給人吃

And given that it takes three times as much grain --

我們需要三倍的穀物

actually ten times as much grain --

事實上是十倍的穀物

to feed a human if it's passed through an animal first,

如果用家畜來餵飽人類的話

that's not a very efficient way of feeding us.

這是沒有效率的

And it's an escalating problem too.

而且是個日趨嚴峻的問題

By 2050, it's estimated that twice the number

到2050年住在城市的人

of us are going to be living in cities.

將是現在的兩倍

And it's also estimated that there is going to be twice as much

我們消費的肉與乳製品

meat and dairy consumed.

估計也會變兩倍

So meat and urbanism are rising hand in hand.

都市化和肉的消費量是共同增長的

And that's going to pose an enormous problem.

這將是個龐雜的問題

Six billion hungry carnivores to feed,

要餵飽六十億個肉食性動物

by 2050.

到2050年。

That's a big problem. And actually if we carry on as we are,

這是個大問題。如果我們不做改變

it's a problem we're very unlikely to be able to solve.

這個問題將會是無解

Nineteen million hectares of rainforest are lost every year

每年有一千九百萬公頃的熱帶雨林消失

to create new arable land.

被開發成農地

Although at the same time we're losing an equivalent amount

同時我們也失去同樣面積的可耕地

of existing arables to salinization and erosion.

因爲土地的鹽化和水土流失

We're very hungry for fossil fuels too.

再加上對石化燃料的索求無度

It takes about 10 calories to produce every calorie

在西方每製造一卡路里的食物

of food that we consume in the West.

要耗去十卡路里的能量

And even though there is food that we are producing at great cost,

雖然付出高昂的代價

we don't actually value it.

我們卻不珍惜

Half the food produced in the USA is currently thrown away.

半數在美國生產的食品是會被丟掉的

And to end all of this, at the end of this long process,

甚至，在這一長串過程的最後

we're not even managing to feed the planet properly.

我們也無法適當的分配食物

A billion of us are obese, while a further billion starve.

在地球上有十億人過胖，卻也有十億人吃不飽

None of it makes very much sense.

這一切都很不合理

And when you think that 80 percent of global trade in food now

試想全球百分之八十的食物交易

is controlled by just five multinational corporations,

只掌握在五大跨國公司的手上時

it's a grim picture.

這是可怕的情景

As we're moving into cities, the world is also embracing a Western diet.

當人們搬到城市住時，大家也接受了西方的飲食習慣

And if we look to the future,

如果我們想一想未來

it's an unsustainable diet.

這絕不是長久之計

So how did we get here?

那麽，我們是如何走到這一步的？

And more importantly, what are we going to do about it?

而更重要的是，下一步該怎麽走？

Well, to answer the slightly easier question first,

第一個問題稍微容易一些

about 10,000 years ago, I would say,

大概一萬年前，我想

is the beginning of this process

是這個演變的開始

in the ancient Near East,

在古老的近東

known as the Fertile Crescent.

又稱作“新月沃土”的地區

Because, as you can see, it was crescent shaped.

你可以看這像一輪新月的形狀

And it was also fertile.

這地區的土壤肥沃

And it was here, about 10,000 years ago,

大約在一萬年前，在這裡

that two extraordinary inventions,

有兩項非凡的發明

agriculture and urbanism, happened

農業以及城市的產生

roughly in the same place and at the same time.

大約在同一地點同一時間

This is no accident,

這並非偶然

because agriculture and cities are bound together. They need each other.

因爲城市和農業是分不開的。他們互相需要

Because it was discovery of grain

這起因於我們的祖先

by our ancient ancestors for the first time

第一次認識到穀物

that produced a food source that was large enough

可以產生足量又供給穩定的食物

and stable enough to support permanent settlements.

去支撐一個永久聚落

And if we look at what those settlements were like,

我們看看一些當時的聚落

we see they were compact.

他們的結構是緊密的

They were surrounded by productive farm land

他們的周圍有農田

and dominated by large temple complexes

並以一大型神殿為中心

like this one at Ur,

例如這一個在烏爾的神殿

that were, in fact, effectively,

在當時

spiritualized, central food distribution centers.

是神聖化的中央食物分配中心

Because it was the temples that organized the harvest,

因爲是神殿安排農作收割

gathered in the grain, offered it to the gods,

收集穀物獻給諸神

and then offered the grain that the gods didn't eat back to the people.

再把諸神沒吃的穀物發還給人們

So, if you like,

你可以這麽說

the whole spiritual and physical life of these cities

這些城市的精神及實體生活

was dominated by the grain and the harvest

是由他們賴以爲生的穀物和收成

that sustained them.

所支配

And in fact, that's true of every ancient city.

事實上，這對每一個古代的城市而言皆如此

But of course not all of them were that small.

當然，不是每一個城市都這麽小

Famously, Rome had about a million citizens

眾所皆知，在西元一世紀時

by the first century A.D.

羅馬就有將近一百萬的居民

So how did a city like this feed itself?

像這麽大的城市如何餵飽所有的居民？

The answer is what I call "ancient food miles."

答案就在我所謂的“古代食物道路”

Basically, Rome had access to the sea,

基本上，羅馬靠近海

which made it possible for it to import food from a very long way away.

所以食物可以從很遠的地方運來

This is the only way it was possible to do this in the ancient world,

這在古代非得透過海運才行

because it was very difficult to transport food over roads,

因為用陸運運輸是很困難的

which were rough.

路況很差

And the food obviously went off very quickly.

而且食物很快就壞掉

So Rome effectively waged war

所以羅馬有效地攻擊

on places like Carthage and Egypt

伽太基和埃及

just to get its paws on their grain reserves.

就爲了取得他們的存糧

And, in fact, you could say that the expansion of the Empire

事實上，整個羅馬帝國的擴張

was really sort of one long, drawn out

可說是一個長期有計劃的

militarized shopping spree, really.

軍事化的瘋狂大採購

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

In fact -- I love the fact, I just have to mention this:

事實上，我喜歡這個事實，我要指出

Rome in fact used to import oysters from London,

羅馬還曾經[從英國輸入牡蠣]

at one stage. I think that's extraordinary.

我覺得這就挺不簡單的

So Rome shaped its hinterland

可以說羅馬領土的形狀

through its appetite.

是由它的食欲來決定

But the interesting thing is that the other thing also

有趣的還有其他的事

happened in the pre-industrial world.

也發生在工業化前的世界

If we look at a map of London in the 17th century,

我們看這十七世紀的倫敦地圖

we can see that its grain, which is coming in from the Thames,

我們可以看到，穀物是從泰晤士河運入

along the bottom of this map.

在這張圖的下方

So the grain markets were to the south of the city.

所以穀物市場都是在市區的南方

And the roads leading up from them

這些路從穀物市場直指

to Cheapside, which was the main market,

到區普塞得，在當時是主要的市場

were also grain markets.

沿途也都是穀物市場

And if you look at the name of one of those streets,

你要是看這些道路的名字

Bread Street, you can tell

麵包街，你可以看出

what was going on there 300 years ago.

三百年前人們在這裡做什麽

And the same of course was true for fish.

漁獲的運輸也同理可證

Fish was, of course, coming in by river as well. Same thing.

魚當然是從河裏運來的

And of course Billingsgate, famously, was London's fish market,

比林斯門是過去倫敦有名的魚市場

operating on-site here until the mid-1980s.

一直到1980年代中期都還在使用

Which is extraordinary, really, when you think about it.

那真是很不可思議，真的，想像一下

Everybody else was wandering around

每個路人手裡

with mobile phones that looked like bricks

拿著磚頭大的大哥大

and sort of smelly fish happening down on the port.

還依稀聞到港口的魚腥味

This is another thing about food in cities:

這是另一個與城市、食物有關的事實

Once its roots into the city are established,

一旦運輸的進城路線被建立

they very rarely move.

就幾乎不會再改變

Meat is a very different story

肉類產品則是另外一回事

because, of course, animals could walk into the city.

因爲，動物們可以自己走進市内

So much of London's meat

所以倫敦的大部分肉品

was coming from the northwest,

是從西北方來的

from Scotland and Wales.

從蘇格蘭及威爾斯

So it was coming in, and arriving at the city at the northwest,

最後到達倫敦的西北方

which is why Smithfield,

那裡是史密斯菲爾德

London's very famous meat market, was located up there.

倫敦著名的肉市場， 便在那裏

Poultry was coming in from East Anglia and so on, to the northeast.

家禽類從東安格利亞進入倫敦的東北方

I feel a bit like a weather woman doing this. Anyway,

講到這裡我覺得好像在作氣象預報....

and so the birds were coming in

禽鳥類也這樣被運進來

with their feet protected with little canvas shoes.

腳上都套著帆布保護套

And then when they hit the eastern end

當牠們抵達區普塞得東邊時

of Cheapside, that's where they were sold,

就會被賣掉

which is why it's called Poultry.

所以這個地方就叫做“家禽區”

And, in fact, if you look at the map of any city

如果你細看任一城市地圖

built before the industrial age,

如果它在工業化前就存在

you can trace food coming in to it.

你就能追溯食物的道路

You can actually see how it was physically shaped by food,

切實地看出城市是如何被食物所改變

both by reading the names of the streets, which give you a lot of clues.

看一看街道的名稱，就可以給你很多線索

Friday Street, in a previous life,

星期五街，在以前

is where you went to buy your fish on a Friday.

是你在星期五去買魚的地方

But also you have to imagine it full of food.

想像街裏擠滿了食物

Because the streets and the public spaces

因爲在街上和公共空間

were the only places where food was bought and sold.

是買賣食物唯一的場所

And if we look at an image of Smithfield in 1830

看看1830年史密斯菲爾德當時的街景

you can see that it would have been very difficult to live in a city like this

你可以想見，住在這裡你很難不知道

and be unaware of where your food came from.

你的食物從哪裏來

In fact, if you were having Sunday lunch,

事實上，當你在吃禮拜日午餐時

the chances were it was mooing or bleating outside your window

你吃的牛或羊，可能三天前

about three days earlier.

還在你的窗外咩咩叫

So this was obviously an organic city,

所以這是一個有機的城市

part of an organic cycle.

是有機循環的一部分

And then 10 years later everything changed.

而十年後一切都改變了

This is an image of the Great Western in 1840.

這是1840年大西部鐵路的畫像

And as you can see, some of the earliest train passengers

你可以看到，最早的鐵路旅客中

were pigs and sheep.

有一些是豬和羊

So all of a sudden, these animals are no longer walking into market.

一夕之間，這些動物不再自己走進市場

They're being slaughtered out of sight and mind,

牠們在眼不見心為淨的情況下被屠宰

somewhere in the countryside.

在鄉下的某處

And they're coming into the city by rail.

再用鐵路運進城市

And this changes everything.

這一來一切都改變了

To start off with, it makes it possible

這是有史以來第一次

for the first time to grow cities,

城市可在任何地方

really any size and shape, in any place.

成長到任何大小和形狀

Cities used to be constrained by geography;

過去城市受限於地理條件

they used to have to get their food through very difficult physical means.

食物必須用艱辛地運送進來

All of a sudden they are effectively emancipated from geography.

突然間城市從地理限制中大解放

And as you can see from these maps of London,

你可以從倫敦的地圖上看出

in the 90 years after the trains came,

在火車通行的九十年後

it goes from being a little blob that was quite easy to feed

倫敦從一個容易餵飽的小點

by animals coming in on foot, and so on,

一個靠動物走進來就能餵飽的小點

to a large splurge,

變成一個龐然大物

that would be very, very difficult to feed with anybody on foot,

步行運輸再也不能餵飽每個人

either animals or people.

對人對動物都一樣

And of course that was just the beginning. After the trains came cars,

這只是個開端。火車之後又來了汽車

and really this marks the end of this process.

這成就了這場變化的終點

It's the final emancipation of the city

這是城市最終的解放

from any apparent relationship with nature at all.

徹底地從大自然的連繫中解放

And this is the kind of city that's devoid of smell,

這些城市的街上聞不到動物的味道

devoid of mess, certainly devoid of people,

不再紊亂，當然也沒有人跡

because nobody would have dreamed of walking in such a landscape.

因為那已是夢裡都夢不到的風景了

In fact, what they did to get food was they got in their cars,

食物的取得變成開車

drove to a box somewhere on the outskirts,

到郊區的大倉儲裏

came back with a week's worth of shopping,

買回一整個星期的庫存

and wondered what on earth to do with it.

再想這些食材該怎麽處理

And this really is the moment when our relationship,

這時候我們跟城市及食物的關係

both with food and cities, changes completely.

已完全改變

Here we have food -- that used to be the center,

過去食物是我們生活的中心

the social core of the city -- at the periphery.

城市的社交重心 -- 現在則是邊緣化

It used to be a social event, buying and selling food.

買賣食物曾是社交活動的一部分

Now it's anonymous.

現在則是隱姓埋名

We used to cook; now we just add water,

我們曾要料理食物，現在只需要加水[到調理包]

or a little bit of an egg if you're making a cake or something.

或者再打個蛋，如果你要做蛋糕的話

We don't smell food to see if it's okay to eat.

你不再先聞聞看東西有沒壞掉

We just read the back of a label on a packet.

你只須讀包裝背後的説明

And we don't value food. We don't trust it.

我們不再珍惜食物。也不再信任它

So instead of trusting it, we fear it.

從信賴轉變成疑懼

And instead of valuing it, we throw it away.

從體會它的價值變成浪費

One of the great ironies of modern food systems

當今食品工業最最諷刺的是

is that they've made the very thing they promised

他們讓生活極致地便利

to make easier much harder.

卻也使得一切更為複雜

By making it possible to build cities anywhere and any place,

因為可以自由地建立新城市

they've actually distanced us from our most important relationship,

我們卻切斷了最重要的連繫

which is that of us and nature.

那就是和大自然的連繫

And also they've made us dependent on systems that only they can deliver,

最後我們只能依賴他們的供給系統

that, as we've seen, are unsustainable.

而我們已經看到，這個系統是不能永久持續的

So what are we going to do about that?

所以，我們該怎麽辦呢？

It's not a new question.

這不是個新的問題

500 years ago it's what Thomas More was asking himself.

五百年前湯瑪士.摩爾就在問他自己

This is the frontispiece of his book "Utopia."

這是他的著作“烏托邦”的卷頭插圖

And it was a series of semi-independent city-states,

裏面是幾個半自給自足的城邦

if that sounds remotely familiar,

聼起來挺熟悉的

a day's walk from one another where everyone was basically farming-mad,

幾乎每個人都有種田的狂熱

and grew vegetables in their back gardens,

在自家的後院種蔬菜

and ate communal meals together, and so on.

並一起享用餐點等等

And I think you could argue that

你可以說

food is a fundamental ordering principle of Utopia,

食物是烏托邦的根本原則

even though More never framed it that way.

即便摩爾最初不是這樣設想

And here is another very famous "Utopian" vision,

另一個著名的烏托邦的願景

that of Ebenezer Howard, "The Garden City."

是埃本内則.霍華著的“田園城市”

Same idea: series of semi-independent city-states,

相同的，也是一些半自給自足的城邦

little blobs of metropolitan stuff with arable land around,

一些小型的都會區，周圍有農田圍繞

joined to one another by railway.

之間用鐵路連接

And again, food could be said to be

食物是，再一次地，

the ordering principle of his vision.

是他建立願景的原則

It even got built, but nothing to do with

這些田園都市是有的，但與當初

this vision that Howard had.

霍華的願景沒有關係

And that is the problem with these Utopian ideas,

這些烏托邦理念的問題就在於

that they are Utopian.

他們只是烏托邦

Utopia was actually a word that Thomas Moore used deliberately.

“烏托邦”是湯瑪斯.摩爾刻意選用的字

It was a kind of joke, because it's got a double derivation from the Greek.

半玩笑的。因為希臘語裡它有雙重含義

It can either mean a good place, or no place.

可以指“好地方”或“不存在的地方”

Because it's an ideal. It's an imaginary thing. We can't have it.

因爲它是理想的，抽象的。我們無法擁有它

And I think, as a conceptual tool

我想這只是個概念

for thinking about the very deep problem of human dwelling,

用來思考人類居住的深刻問題

that makes it not much use.

這讓它不太有用

So I've come up with an alternative,

所以我提出另一個的概念

which is Sitopia, from the ancient Greek,

”希托邦“，在古希臘文中

"sitos" for food, and "topos" for place.

“希托”是代表食物，“邦”是地方

I believe we already live in Sitopia.

我相信我們已經住在“希托邦”裏

We live in a world shaped by food,

這世界是受食物影響的

and if we realize that, we can use food as a really powerful tool --

只要認清楚這事實，食物便能成爲有力的工具

a conceptual tool, design tool, to shape the world differently.

一個概念性的工具，設計工具，來改變這個世界

So if we were to do that, what might Sitopia look like?

如果這樣做，希托邦會長得怎樣？

Well I think it looks a bit like this.

我的看法是這樣

I have to use this slide. It's just the look on the face of the dog.

我用這張投影片，因爲這狗的臉很可愛

But anyway, this is -- (Laughter)

無論如何，在這裡 （笑聲）

it's food at the center of life,

食物是生活的中心

at the center of family life, being celebrated,

在家庭生活的中心，被讚頌

being enjoyed, people taking time for it.

被享用，人們花時間在這上面

This is where food should be in our society.

這是食物在我們社會裏應有的地位

But you can't have scenes like this unless you have people like this.

但想做到這樣，得先有這些人

By the way, these can be men as well.

對了，他也可以是男的

It's people who think about food,

這些人是會想到食物的

who think ahead, who plan,

他們會預先思考，作計劃

who can stare at a pile of raw vegetables

看到一堆生菜時

and actually recognize them.

知道那是什麽菜

We need these people. We're part of a network.

我們需要這些人。我們都是網路的一部分

Because without these kinds of people we can't have places like this.

因爲，少了這種人，這個地方將無法存在

Here, I deliberately chose this because it is a man buying a vegetable.

我故意選這張是因為這是男人在買菜

But networks, markets where food is being grown locally.

在這個網路或市場裏，食物是當地生産的

It's common. It's fresh.

是普及的，新鮮的

It's part of the social life of the city.

是社交生活的一部分

Because without that, you can't have this kind of place,

沒有了這一部分，這樣的地方就無法存在

food that is grown locally and also is part of the landscape,

當地生産的食物也是風景的一部分

and is not just a zero-sum commodity

而不只是另一個消費商品

off in some unseen hell-hole.

來自看不到的黑暗角落

Cows with a view.

牛在野地放牧

Steaming piles of humus.

冒著水汽的肥沃土壤

This is basically bringing the whole thing together.

這才使一切變得完整

And this is a community project

這是一個社區性的計劃

I visited recently in Toronto.

我最近去了一趟多倫多

It's a greenhouse, where kids get told

這個溫室裡小朋友學習

all about food and growing their own food.

有關食物，和種菜的一切

Here is a plant called Kevin, or maybe it's a

這顆菜名叫凱文，或是

plant belonging to a kid called Kevin. I don't know.

這是凱文種的菜，我不確定

But anyway, these kinds of projects

總而言之，這類計劃

that are trying to reconnect us with nature is extremely important.

使我們和大自然再度連繫，這是非常重要的

So Sitopia, for me, is really a way of seeing.

所以，希托邦，對我是另一種觀點

It's basically recognizing that Sitopia

基本上，我們認爲希托邦

already exists in little pockets everywhere.

已在各地小規模地分散地存在

The trick is to join them up,

下一步就是把它們連接起來

to use food as a way of seeing.

從食物的角度來看

And if we do that, we're going to stop seeing cities

如果我們這麽看，城市就不會是

as big, metropolitan, unproductive blobs, like this.

像這樣一個大而不事生産的區塊

We're going to see them more like this,

我們將把城市看成

as part of the productive, organic framework

是一個有生産力的有機體的一部分

of which they are inevitably a part,

在這架構下無可避免地

symbiotically connected.

自然地連結

But of course, that's not a great image either,

這不是什麽大理論

because we need not to be producing food like this anymore.

因爲我們不需要再這樣生産食物

We need to be thinking more about permaculture,

而應該多想想社區生態農業

which is why I think this image just

所以這張圖

sums up for me the kind of thinking we need to be doing.

替我們該做的事做個結論

It's a re-conceptualization

我們需要重新思考

of the way food shapes our lives.

食物如何改變我們的生活

The best image I know of this is from 650 years ago.

最棒的例子是這張650年前的畫

It's Ambrogio Lorenzetti's "Allegory of Good Government."

安布洛吉歐.羅倫澤提的“良好政府的寓言”

It's about the relationship between the city and the countryside.

他勾畫出城市和鄉下的關係

And I think the message of this is very clear.

這裡面的訊息是很清楚的

If the city looks after the country,

如果城市細心照顧田園

the country will look after the city.

那田園也會回頭來照顧城市

And I want us to ask now,

我要大家來想一想

what would Ambrogio Lorenzetti paint

安布洛吉歐.羅倫澤提會怎麽畫？

if he painted this image today?

他如果在今天畫這張圖

What would an allegory of good government look like today?

現代版"良好政府的寓言"會是什麽？

Because I think it's an urgent question.

因為這是個不能等的問題

It's one we have to ask,

每個人都必須問自己

and we have to start answering.

每個人也必須開始回答

We know we are what we eat.

我們怎麼吃，就會像什麼

We need to realize that the world is also what we eat.

也要知道，我們怎麼吃，這世界就會像什麽

But if we take that idea, we can use food

一旦有了這個概念，我們可以藉由食物

as a really powerful tool to shape the world better.

作爲一個十分有力的工具來改善世界

Thank you very much.

謝謝大家

(Applause)

（掌聲）