The 3,000-year history of the hoodie | Small Thing Big Idea, a TED series

348,436 views ・ 2018-11-03

TED


Please double-click on the English subtitles below to play the video.

00:00
Translator: Camille Martínez Reviewer: Krystian Aparta
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Prevodilac: Anđela Vučković Lektor: Tijana Mihajlović
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
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Duks sa kapuljačom je zadivljujuć predmet.
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects that we hardly think of,
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To je jedan od onih bezvremenih predmeta na koji retko kad pomislimo,
00:19
because they work so well that they're part of our lives.
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jer funkcionišu veoma dobro kao sastavni deo naših života.
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
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Nazivamo ih „skromnim remek-delima“.
00:24
[Small thing.]
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[Mala stvar.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
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[Velika ideja.]
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on the Hoodie]
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[Paola Antoneli o duksu sa kapuljačom]
00:30
The hoodie has been -- even if it was not called so --
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Duks sa kapuljačom je predstavljao, iako nije tako nazvan,
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history for good and for bad reasons.
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ikonu tokom istorije, iz dobrih i loših razloga.
00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
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Najraniji za koji znamo
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
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potiče iz antičke Grčke i antičkog Rima.
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
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Tokom srednjeg veka vidimo dosta monaha
00:45
that were wearing garments that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
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koji su nosili delove odeće poput plašta sa prišivenim kapuljačama,
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
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te odatle i „duksevi sa kapuljačom“.
00:51
Ladies in the 17th century would wear hoodies
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Dame su u 17.veku nosile duks sa kapuljačom
00:53
to kind of hide themselves when they were going to meet their lovers.
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kao način da se sakriju kada bi se nalazile sa svojim ljubavnicima.
00:57
And then, of course, there's the legend, there's fantasy.
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A, naravno, tu je i legenda i mašta.
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie connected to the grim reaper.
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Postoji i prikaz duksa sa kapuljačom koji je povezan sa Smrću.
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie connected to the executioner.
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Postoji i prikaz duksa sa kapuljačom koji je povezan sa dželatom.
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
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Dakle, postoji i tamna strana duksa sa kapuljačom.
01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
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Moderno oličenje duksa sa kapuljačom -
01:13
a garment that's made usually of cotton jersey,
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komada odeće koji je obično napravljen od pamučnog džempera
01:16
that has a hood attached with a drawstring;
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i ima prišivenu kapuljaču sa učkurom,
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
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ponekad i džep kao kod torbara -
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
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predstavila je 1930-ih „Kompanija za izradu muških tri-četvrt pantalona“.
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
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Danas se zove „Čempion“.
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
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Bio je namenjen da greje sportiste.
01:31
Of course, though, it was such a functional, comfortable garment
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Naravno, između ostalog, bio je to toliko funkcionalan i udoban komad odeće
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted by workmen everywhere.
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da su ga radnici svuda veoma brzo prihvatili.
01:39
And then, around the 1980s, it also gets adopted
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A zatim, oko 1980-ih, takođe su ga prihvatili
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
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hip-hop i B-boy pokreti, skejteri,
01:47
and it takes on this kind of youth street culture.
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i tako postaje deo ulične kulture mladih.
01:50
It was, at the same time, super-comfortable,
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Bio je, u isto vreme, izuzetno udoban,
01:52
perfect for the streets
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savršen za ulice,
01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
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a imao je i tu dodatnu prednost anonimnosti
01:57
when you needed it.
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kada je bila potrebna.
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
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A zatim imamo i Marka Zakerberga,
02:00
who defies convention of respectable attire for businesspeople.
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koji prkosi prihvaćenom pravilu uglednog odevanja kod poslovnih ljudi.
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show how power has changed.
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Ali, zanimljivo je što je to i način da se pokaže koliko se moć promenila.
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit, you might be the bodyguard.
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Ako nosiš dvodelno odelo, možda si telohranitelj.
02:12
The real powerful person is wearing a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
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Moćna osoba je zapravo ona koja nosi duks sa kapuljačom, majicu i pantalone.
02:17
It's easy to think of the physical aspects of the hoodie.
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Lako je zamisliti fizičke aspekte duksa sa kapuljačom.
02:21
You can immediately think of wearing the hood up,
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Možete odmah zamisliti kako nosite kapuljaču
02:23
and you feel this warmth and this protection,
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i odmah imate taj topli osećaj zaštite,
02:26
but at the same time,
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a u isto vreme
02:27
you can also feel the psychological aspects of it.
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možete osetiti i psihološku stranu toga.
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
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Hoću reći, zamislite kako oblačite duks sa kapuljačom
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
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i odjednom, osećate se zaštićeno
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
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osećate kao da ste u sopstvenoj školjci.
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie has come to signify
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Svi vrlo dobro znamo šta je duks sa kapuljačom počeo da označava
02:45
in the past few years in the United States.
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poslednjih godina u Sjedinjenim Američkim Država.
02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old African-American kid,
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Kada su Trejvona Martina,
17-godišnjeg dečaka afričko-američkog porekla,
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
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upucali osvetnici iz kraja
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened all over the United States,
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i kada se Milionski marš kapuljača desio širom Sjedinjenih Američkih Država,
03:00
in which people wore hoodies with the hood up
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u kome su ljudi nosili duks sa podignutom kapuljačom
03:03
and marched in the streets against this kind of prejudice.
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i marširali ulicama protiv ove vrste nepravde.
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
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Ne događa se tako često
03:09
for a garment to have so much symbolism and history
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da jedan komad odeće ima toliko simbolizma i istorije
03:13
and that encompasses so many different universes
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i da obuhvata toliko različitih svetova
03:17
as the hoodie.
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kao što je duks sa kapuljačom.
03:18
So, like all garments,
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Pa, kao i kod svih komada odeće,
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
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pogotovo kod onih zaista korisnih komada odeće,
03:23
it is very basic in its design.
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dizajn mu je veoma jednostavan.
03:25
But at the same time,
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Ali, u isto vreme,
03:26
it has a whole universe of possibilities attached.
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ima ceo svet povezanih mogućnosti.
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