The 3,000-year history of the hoodie | Small Thing Big Idea, a TED series

Translator: Camille Martínez Reviewer: Krystian Aparta

翻译人员: Zhiyu Zhang 校对人员: Yanyan Hong

The hoodie is an amazing object.

帽衫是非常神奇的东西。

It's one of those timeless objects that we hardly think of,

是那种早已悄悄融入我们的生活，

because they work so well that they're part of our lives.

几乎被我们遗忘了的 无数物件之一。

We call them "humble masterpieces."

我们称它们为 “谦虚的杰作”。

[Small thing.]

【小物件】

[Big idea.]

【大点子】

[Paola Antonelli on the Hoodie]

【保拉·安东内利——帽衫】

The hoodie has been -- even if it was not called so --

帽衫 ——就算以前 它不叫这个名字——

不论好坏，它都一直是 历史的风向标。

it's been an icon throughout history for good and for bad reasons.

The earliest ones that we can trace

我们可追溯的最早的帽衫，

are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.

起源于古希腊和古罗马。

The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks

中世纪时，很多修士会穿

that were wearing garments that were cape-like, with hoods attached,

带帽兜的披肩式袍子，

so therefore, "hoodies."

所以就有了“帽衫”这个名字。

Ladies in the 17th century would wear hoodies

17世纪的女性也穿帽衫，

to kind of hide themselves when they were going to meet their lovers.

目的是在与情人见面时隐蔽自己。

And then, of course, there's the legend, there's fantasy.

当然，有各种各样的传说和臆想，

There's the image of the hoodie connected to the grim reaper.

有穿着帽衫拿着镰刀的死神，

There's the image of the hoodie connected to the executioner.

还有穿着帽衫的刽子手。

So there's the dark side of the hoodie.

那是帽衫历史中黑暗的一面。

The modern incarnation of the hoodie --

帽衫在现代的化身——

a garment that's made usually of cotton jersey,

通常是由棉布制成的运动衫，

that has a hood attached with a drawstring;

后面带着一个边沿被 细绳贯通的帽子：

sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --

有时它前面还有一个口袋——

was introduced in the 1930s by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.

上世纪30年代，Knickerbocker Knitting 公司把这种衣服推行到市场上。

Now it's called Champion.

现在公司改名为“Champion”。

It was meant to keep athletes warm.

帽衫曾是为运动员保暖而设计的。

Of course, though, it was such a functional, comfortable garment

但因为其功能多样，且十分舒适，

that it was very rapidly adopted by workmen everywhere.

在世界各地的工人 群体中迅速风靡起来。

And then, around the 1980s, it also gets adopted

到了上个世纪80年代左右， 帽衫也在嘻哈说唱文化爱好者，

by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,

以及滑板爱好者中流行起来，

and it takes on this kind of youth street culture.

并在这种年轻的 街头文化中占据了一席之地。

It was, at the same time, super-comfortable,

同时，帽衫极舒适的特点，

perfect for the streets

也非常适合街头穿着，

and also had that added value of anonymity

并在你需要的时候，添加了一份

when you needed it.

隐藏身份的色彩。

And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,

然后还有马克·扎克伯格，

who defies convention of respectable attire for businesspeople.

一个挑衅商业人士习以为常的 正式着装风俗的人。

But interestingly, it's also a way to show how power has changed.

有趣的是，帽衫也成为了一种 展示权力转变的方式。

If you're wearing a two-piece suit, you might be the bodyguard.

如果你身穿整套西服， 那估计你是一名保镖。

真正执掌大权的是那个 穿着T恤及帽衫，还有牛仔裤的人。

The real powerful person is wearing a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.

It's easy to think of the physical aspects of the hoodie.

穿好帽衫时的样子很容易想象，

You can immediately think of wearing the hood up,

你可以马上就体验到 戴上帽衫帽子的感觉，

and you feel this warmth and this protection,

那种温暖和安全感，

but at the same time,

与此同时，

you can also feel the psychological aspects of it.

你也能感受到心理上的感觉。

I mean, think of donning a hoodie,

我的意思是，想象着 穿了上一件帽衫，

all of a sudden, you feel more protected,

突然间就有一种受到保护的感觉，

you feel that you are in your own shell.

感觉自己在自己的保护壳里面。

We know very well what the hoodie has come to signify

我们清楚地知道，帽衫 在美国的过去几年里，

有着什么样的意义。

in the past few years in the United States.

When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old African-American kid,

当一个17岁的美国非裔的孩子 塔拉万·马丁(Trayvon Martin)

was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,

被一个治安维护者枪杀时，

and Million Hoodie Marches happened all over the United States,

全美国有上百万 穿着帽衫的人进行游行示威，

in which people wore hoodies with the hood up

这些人戴上帽衫的帽子，

and marched in the streets against this kind of prejudice.

在街上游行示威来抵制这种偏见。

It doesn't happen that often

一种服饰蕴含了

如此重大的意义和历史， 这并不常见，

for a garment to have so much symbolism and history

and that encompasses so many different universes

更何况是像帽衫这样 所涉及的领域

如此广泛的服装，

as the hoodie.

So, like all garments,

就像所有的服装一样，

especially all truly utilitarian garments,

尤其是所有实用至上的服装，

it is very basic in its design.

它拥有着最普通的设计。

But at the same time,

但与此同时，

it has a whole universe of possibilities attached.

在它身上又蕴藏着无数的可能性。