The 3,000-year history of the hoodie | Small Thing Big Idea, a TED series

348,436 views ใƒป 2018-11-03

TED


ืื ื ืœื—ืฅ ืคืขืžื™ื™ื ืขืœ ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื‘ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ืœืžื˜ื” ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ืคืขื™ืœ ืืช ื”ืกืจื˜ื•ืŸ.

00:00
Translator: Camille Martรญnez Reviewer: Krystian Aparta
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ืชืจื’ื•ื: tomer malovani ืขืจื™ื›ื”: Ido Dekkers
00:12
The hoodie is an amazing object.
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ื”ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ ื”ื•ื ื“ื‘ืจ ืžื“ื”ื™ื
00:14
It's one of those timeless objects that we hardly think of,
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ื”ื•ื ืื—ื“ ืžื”ื—ืคืฆื™ื ื”ื ืฆื—ื™ื™ื ืฉืื ื—ื ื• ื‘ืงื•ืฉื™ ื—ื•ืฉื‘ื™ื ืขืœื™ื”ื,
00:19
because they work so well that they're part of our lives.
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ื‘ื’ืœืœ ืฉื”ื ืขื•ื‘ื“ื™ื ื›ืœ ื›ืš ื˜ื•ื‘ ืฉื”ื ื—ืœืง ืžื”ื—ื™ื™ื ืฉืœื ื•.
00:22
We call them "humble masterpieces."
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ืื ื—ื ื• ืงื•ืจืื™ื ืœื”ื "ื™ืฆื™ืจื•ืช ืžื•ืคืช ืฆื ื•ืขื•ืช".
00:24
[Small thing.]
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[ื“ื‘ืจ ืงื˜ืŸ.]
00:25
[Big idea.]
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[ืจืขื™ื•ืŸ ื’ื“ื•ืœ.]
00:28
[Paola Antonelli on the Hoodie]
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[ืคืื•ืœื” ืื ื˜ื•ื ืœื™ ืขืœ ื”ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ]
00:30
The hoodie has been -- even if it was not called so --
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ื”ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ ื”ื™ื”-- ื’ื ืื ื”ื•ื ืœื ื ืงืจื ื›ืš--
00:34
it's been an icon throughout history for good and for bad reasons.
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ื”ื•ื ื”ื™ื” ืกืžืœ ืœืžืฉืš ื”ื”ื™ืกื˜ื•ืจื™ื” ืœืกื™ื‘ื•ืช ื˜ื•ื‘ื•ืช ื•ืœืกื™ื‘ื•ืช ืจืขื•ืช.
00:38
The earliest ones that we can trace
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ื”ื›ื™ ืžื•ืงื“ืžื™ื ืฉื™ื›ื•ืœื ื• ืœื’ืœื•ืช
00:41
are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.
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ื”ื™ื• ืžื™ื•ื•ืŸ ื”ืขืชื™ืงื” ื•ืžืจื•ืžื ื”ื”ืขืชื™ืงื”.
00:43
The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks
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ื‘ื™ืžื™ ื”ื‘ื™ื ื™ื™ื, ืชืจืื• ื”ืจื‘ื” ื ื–ื™ืจื™ื
00:45
that were wearing garments that were cape-like, with hoods attached,
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ืฉืœื•ื‘ืฉื™ื ื‘ื’ื“ื™ื ืฉื ืจืื• ื›ืžื• ืฉื›ืžื™ื™ื”, ืขื ื‘ืจื“ืก ืžื—ื•ื‘ืจ ืืœื™ื”ื,
00:49
so therefore, "hoodies."
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ืœื›ืŸ ื”ืฉื, "ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ"
00:51
Ladies in the 17th century would wear hoodies
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ื ืฉื™ื ื‘ืžืื” ื”17 ื”ื™ื• ืœื•ื‘ืฉื•ืช ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ื ื™ื
00:53
to kind of hide themselves when they were going to meet their lovers.
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ืขืœ ืžื ืช ืœื”ืกืชื™ืจ ืืช ืขืฆืžืŸ ื›ืฉื”ืŸ ื”ื™ื• ื”ื•ืœื›ื•ืช ืœืคื’ื•ืฉ ืืช ื”ืžืื”ื‘ ืฉืœื”ืŸ.
00:57
And then, of course, there's the legend, there's fantasy.
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ื•ืื–, ื›ืžื•ื‘ืŸ ื™ืฉ ืืช ื”ืื’ื“ื•ืช, ื™ืฉ ืคื ื˜ื–ื™ื”.
01:01
There's the image of the hoodie connected to the grim reaper.
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ื™ืฉ ืืช ื”ืชืžื•ื ื” ืฉืœ ื”ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ ืืฉืจ ืžื—ื•ื‘ืจืช ืืœ ืžืœืืš ื”ืžื•ื•ืช.
01:04
There's the image of the hoodie connected to the executioner.
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ื™ืฉ ืืช ื”ืชืžื•ื ื” ืฉืœ ื”ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ ืืฉืจ ืžื—ื•ื‘ืจืช ืืœ ื”ืžื•ืฆื™ื ืœื”ื•ืจื’.
01:07
So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
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ืื– ื™ืฉ ืืช ื”ืฆื“ ื”ืืคืœ ืฉืœ ื”ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ.
01:10
The modern incarnation of the hoodie --
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ื”ื”ืชื’ืœืžื•ืช ื”ืžื•ื“ืจื ื™ืช ืฉืœ ื”ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ --
01:13
a garment that's made usually of cotton jersey,
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ื‘ื’ื“ ืฉืขืฉื•ื™ ืœืจื•ื‘ ืžื—ื•ืœืฆืช ื›ื•ืชื ื”,
01:16
that has a hood attached with a drawstring;
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ืฉื™ืฉ ืœื• ื‘ืจื“ืก ืžื—ื•ื‘ืจ ืืœื™ื™ื” ืขื ื”ืฉืจื•ื›ื™ื:
01:19
sometimes it has a marsupial pocket --
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ืœืคืขืžื™ื ื™ืฉ ืœื• ืืช ื”ื›ื™ืก ื”ื“ื• ื›ื™ื•ื•ื ื™ --
01:22
was introduced in the 1930s by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.
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ื”ื•ืฆื’ ื‘ืฉื ื•ืช ื”30 ืขืœ ื™ื“ื™ ื—ื‘ืจืช ื”ืกืจื™ื’ื” ื ื™ืงืจื‘ื•ืงืจ.
01:26
Now it's called Champion.
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ื•ืขื›ืฉื™ื• ื”ื•ื ืงืจื•ื™ "ืืœื•ืฃ".
01:28
It was meant to keep athletes warm.
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ื”ื›ื•ื•ื ื” ืฉืœื• ื”ื™ื” ืœืฉืžื•ืจ ืขืœ ื—ื•ื ื”ืกืคื•ืจื˜ืื™ื.
01:31
Of course, though, it was such a functional, comfortable garment
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ื›ืžื•ื‘ืŸ, ืžื›ื•ื•ืŸ ื•ื–ื” ื”ื™ื” ื‘ื’ื“ ื›ื–ื” ืฉื™ืžื•ืฉื™ ื•ื ื•ื—
01:35
that it was very rapidly adopted by workmen everywhere.
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ืฉื”ื•ื ืื•ืžืฅ ืžืื•ื“ ืžื”ืจ ืขืœ ื™ื“ื™ ืคื•ืขืœื™ื ื‘ื›ืœ ืžืงื•ื.
01:39
And then, around the 1980s, it also gets adopted
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ื•ืื–, ื‘ืกื‘ื™ื‘ื•ืช ืฉื ื•ืช ื”80, ื”ื•ื ืื•ืžืฅ ื’ื
01:43
by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,
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ืขืœ ื™ื“ื™ ื”ื”ื™ืค ื”ื•ืค ื•ื”ื‘ื™ ื‘ื•ื™ื–, ืกืงื™ื™ื˜ืจื™ื,
01:47
and it takes on this kind of youth street culture.
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ื•ื”ื•ื ื ืชืคืก ืขืœ ืื•ืชื” ืชืจื‘ื•ืช ื”ืจื—ื•ื‘ ื”ืฆืขื™ืจื”.
01:50
It was, at the same time, super-comfortable,
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ื”ื•ื ื”ื™ื”, ื‘ืื•ืชื• ื”ื–ืžืŸ, ืกื•ืคืจ ื ื•ื—,
01:52
perfect for the streets
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ืžื•ืฉืœื ืขื‘ื•ืจ ื”ืจื—ื•ื‘ื•ืช
01:53
and also had that added value of anonymity
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ื•ื’ื ื ื•ืกืฃ ืœื• ื”ืขืจืš ืฉืœ ื”ืืœืžื•ื ื™ื•ืช
01:57
when you needed it.
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ืžืชื™ ืฉืืชื” ื–ืงื•ืง ืœื”.
01:58
And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,
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ื•ืื– ื™ืฉ ืœื ื• ืืช ืžืืจืง ืฆื•ืงืจื‘ืจื’,
02:00
who defies convention of respectable attire for businesspeople.
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ืืฉืจ ืžืชื ื’ื“ ืœืžื•ืกื›ืžื•ืช ืฉืœ ื”ืœื‘ื•ืฉ ื”ืžื›ื•ื‘ื“ ืขื‘ื•ืจ ืื ืฉื™ ืขืกืงื™ื.
02:04
But interestingly, it's also a way to show how power has changed.
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ืื‘ืœ ื‘ืื•ืคืŸ ืžืขื ื™ื™ืŸ, ื–ื” ื’ื ื“ืจืš ืœื”ืจืื•ืช ืื™ืš ื›ื•ื— ื”ืฉืชื ื”.
02:09
If you're wearing a two-piece suit, you might be the bodyguard.
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ืื ืืชื” ืœื•ื‘ืฉ ื—ืœื™ืคื” ื‘ืช ืฉื ื™ ื—ืœืงื™ื, ืืชื” ื›ื ืจืื” ืชื”ื™ื” ื”ืฉื•ืžืจ.
02:12
The real powerful person is wearing a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
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ื”ืื“ื ื”ืขื•ืฆืžืชื™ ื‘ืืžืช ืœื•ื‘ืฉ ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ ืขื ื—ื•ืœืฆื” ื•ื’'ื™ื ืก.
02:17
It's easy to think of the physical aspects of the hoodie.
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ื–ื” ืงืœ ืœื—ืฉื•ื‘ ืขืœ ื”ื”ื™ื‘ื˜ื™ื ื”ืคื™ื–ื™ื™ื ืฉืœ ื”ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ.
02:21
You can immediately think of wearing the hood up,
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ืืชื” ื™ื›ื•ืœ ื‘ืื•ืคืŸ ืžื™ื™ื“ื™ ืœื—ืฉื•ื‘ ืขืœ ืœืฉื™ื ืืช ื›ื•ื‘ืข ื”ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ,
02:23
and you feel this warmth and this protection,
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ื•ืืชื” ืชืจื’ื™ืฉ ืืช ื”ื—ื•ื ื•ืืช ื”ื”ื’ื ื”,
02:26
but at the same time,
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ืื‘ืœ ื‘ืื•ืชื• ื”ื–ืžืŸ,
02:27
you can also feel the psychological aspects of it.
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ืืชื ื™ื›ื•ืœื™ื ื’ื ืœื”ืจื’ื™ืฉ ืืช ื”ื”ื™ื‘ื˜ื™ื ื”ืคืกื™ื›ื•ืœื•ื’ื™ื ืฉืœ ื–ื”.
02:30
I mean, think of donning a hoodie,
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ืื ื™ ืžืชื›ื•ื•ื ืช, ื—ืฉื‘ื• ืขืœ ืœืœื‘ื•ืฉ ืืช ื”ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ,
02:32
all of a sudden, you feel more protected,
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ืคืชืื•ื, ืืชื ืžืจื’ื™ืฉื™ื ื™ื•ืชืจ ืžื•ื’ื ื™ื,
02:34
you feel that you are in your own shell.
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ืืชื ืžืจื’ื™ืฉื™ื ืฉืืชื ื‘ืชื•ืš ืขื•ืœื ืžืฉืœื›ื.
02:41
We know very well what the hoodie has come to signify
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ืื ื—ื ื• ื™ื•ื“ืขื™ื ื˜ื•ื‘ ืžืื•ื“ ืžื” ื”ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ ื”ืชื—ื™ืœ ืœืกืžืœ
02:45
in the past few years in the United States.
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ื‘ืฉื ื™ื ื”ืื—ืจื•ื ื•ืช ื‘ืืจืฆื•ืช ื”ื‘ืจื™ืช.
02:47
When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old African-American kid,
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ื›ืฉื˜ืจื™ื™ื‘ื•ืŸ ืžืจื˜ื™ืŸ, ื™ืœื“ ืืคืจื•-ืืžืจื™ืงืื™ ื‘ืŸ 17 ,
02:52
was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,
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ื ื•ืจื” ืขืœ ื™ื“ื™ ืื–ืจื— ืืฉืจ ืœืงื— ืืช ื”ื—ื•ืง ืœื™ื“ื™ื™ื,
02:55
and Million Hoodie Marches happened all over the United States,
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ื•ืฆืขื“ื•ืช ืฉืœ ืžืœื™ื•ื ื™ ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ื ื™ื ืงืจื• ื‘ื›ืœ ืจื—ื‘ื™ ืืจืฆื•ืช ื”ื‘ืจื™ืช
03:00
in which people wore hoodies with the hood up
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ื‘ื”ืŸ ืื ืฉื™ื ืœื‘ืฉื• ืืช ื”ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ื ื™ื ืขื ื”ื›ื•ื‘ืข ืขืœ ื”ืจืืฉ
03:03
and marched in the streets against this kind of prejudice.
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ื•ืฆืขื“ื• ื‘ืจื—ื•ื‘ื•ืช ื›ื ื’ื“ ื“ืขื•ืช ืงื“ื•ืžื•ืช ืžื”ืกื•ื’ ื”ื–ื”
03:07
It doesn't happen that often
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ื–ื” ืœื ืงื•ืจื” ื”ืจื‘ื”
03:09
for a garment to have so much symbolism and history
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ืฉืœื‘ื’ื“ ื™ืฉ ื›ืœ ื›ืš ื”ืจื‘ื” ืกืžืœื™ื•ืช ื•ื”ื™ืกื˜ื•ืจื™ื”
03:13
and that encompasses so many different universes
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ืฉืžืงื™ืฃ ื›ืœ ื›ืš ื”ืจื‘ื” ื™ืงื•ืžื™ื ืฉื•ื ื™ื.
03:17
as the hoodie.
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ื›ืงืคื•ืฆ'ื•ืŸ.
03:18
So, like all garments,
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ืื–, ื›ืžื• ื›ืœ ื”ื‘ื’ื“ื™ื,
03:20
especially all truly utilitarian garments,
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ื‘ืžื™ื•ื—ื“ ื›ืœ ื”ื‘ื’ื“ื™ื ื”ื™ืขื™ืœื™ื,
03:23
it is very basic in its design.
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ื”ื•ื ืžืื•ื“ ืคืฉื•ื˜ ื‘ืขื™ืฆื•ื‘ ืฉืœื•.
03:25
But at the same time,
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ืืš ื‘ืื•ืชื• ื”ื–ืžืŸ,
03:26
it has a whole universe of possibilities attached.
65
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3650
ื™ืฉ ืœื• ื™ืงื•ื ืฉืœื ืฉืœ ืืคืฉืจื•ื™ื•ืช ืฉืžื—ื•ื‘ืจื•ืช ืืœื™ื•.
ืขืœ ืืชืจ ื–ื”

ืืชืจ ื–ื” ื™ืฆื™ื’ ื‘ืคื ื™ื›ื ืกืจื˜ื•ื ื™ YouTube ื”ืžื•ืขื™ืœื™ื ืœืœื™ืžื•ื“ ืื ื’ืœื™ืช. ืชื•ื›ืœื• ืœืจืื•ืช ืฉื™ืขื•ืจื™ ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ื”ืžื•ืขื‘ืจื™ื ืขืœ ื™ื“ื™ ืžื•ืจื™ื ืžื”ืฉื•ืจื” ื”ืจืืฉื•ื ื” ืžืจื—ื‘ื™ ื”ืขื•ืœื. ืœื—ืฅ ืคืขืžื™ื™ื ืขืœ ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื‘ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ื”ืžื•ืฆื’ื•ืช ื‘ื›ืœ ื“ืฃ ื•ื™ื“ืื• ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ืคืขื™ืœ ืืช ื”ืกืจื˜ื•ืŸ ืžืฉื. ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื’ื•ืœืœื•ืช ื‘ืกื ื›ืจื•ืŸ ืขื ื”ืคืขืœืช ื”ื•ื•ื™ื“ืื•. ืื ื™ืฉ ืœืš ื”ืขืจื•ืช ืื• ื‘ืงืฉื•ืช, ืื ื ืฆื•ืจ ืื™ืชื ื• ืงืฉืจ ื‘ืืžืฆืขื•ืช ื˜ื•ืคืก ื™ืฆื™ืจืช ืงืฉืจ ื–ื”.

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