What's wrong with what we eat | Mark Bittman

Prevodilac: Ana Zivanovic-Nenadovic Lektor: Ivana Korom

I write about food. I write about cooking.

Ja pišem o hrani. Pišem o kulinarstvu.

I take it quite seriously,

To shvatam prilično ozbiljno.

but I'm here to talk about something

ali, ovde sam da bih govorio o nečemu

that's become very important to me in the last year or two.

što mi je u poslednjih godinu, dve dana postalo jako važno.

It is about food, but it's not about cooking, per se.

Radi se o hrani, ali ne o samom kuvanju.

I'm going to start with this picture of a beautiful cow.

Počeću sa ovom slikom lepe krave.

I'm not a vegetarian -- this is the old Nixon line, right?

Nisam vegetarijanac - ovo je stara Niksonova izreka, zar ne?

But I still think that this --

Ali i dalje mislim da ovo -

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

-- may be this year's version of this.

- može biti ovogodišnja verzija ovoga.

Now, that is only a little bit hyperbolic.

Sada, mozda samo malo preuveličavam.

And why do I say it?

A zašto to kažem?

Because only once before has the fate of individual people

Zato što su samo jednom ranije sudbina pojedinačnih ljudi

and the fate of all of humanity

i sudbina celog čovečanstva

been so intertwined.

bile toliko isprepletane.

There was the bomb, and there's now.

Tada je bila bomba, a i sada je.

And where we go from here is going to determine

I kuda idemo odavde će odrediti

not only the quality and the length of our individual lives,

ne samo kvalitet i dužinu naših individualnih života

but whether, if we could see the Earth a century from now,

već i da li, kad bismo mogli da vidimo zemlju za jedan vek,

we'd recognize it.

bismo je prepoznali.

It's a holocaust of a different kind,

Ovo je holokaust druge vrste

and hiding under our desks isn't going to help.

i skrivanje ispod stolova neće pomoći.

Start with the notion that global warming

Počnite sa činjenicom da globalno zagrevanje

is not only real, but dangerous.

nije samo stvarno, već i opasno.

Since every scientist in the world now believes this,

Pošto svaki naučnik u svetu sada u ovo veruje

and even President Bush has seen the light, or pretends to,

a čak je i predsednik Buš to priznao ili se samo pretvara,

we can take this is a given.

možemo to uzeti zdravo za gotovo.

Then hear this, please.

A onda molim vas, slušajte ovo:

After energy production, livestock is the second-highest contributor

nakon proizvodnje energije, stoka je drugi po redu doprinosilac

to atmosphere-altering gases.

gasovima koji menjaju atmosferu.

Nearly one-fifth of all greenhouse gas

Skoro jedna petina svih gasova sa efektom staklene bašte

is generated by livestock production --

nastaje uzgojem stoke -

more than transportation.

više nego transportom.

Now, you can make all the jokes you want about cow farts,

Sad, možete da zbijate koje god hoćete šale o kravljim prdežima,

but methane is 20 times more poisonous than CO2,

ali metan je 20 puta otrovinji od CO2,

and it's not just methane.

a ne radi se samo o metanu.

Livestock is also one of the biggest culprits in land degradation,

Stoka je takođe i najveći krivac za degradaciju zemljišta,

air and water pollution, water shortages and loss of biodiversity.

zagađenje vazduha i vode, nestašice vode i gubitka biološke raznovrsnosti.

There's more.

Ima toga još.

Like half the antibiotics in this country

Oko pola totalne količine antibiotika u ovoj državi

are not administered to people, but to animals.

se ne daje ljudima, već životinjama.

But lists like this become kind of numbing, so let me just say this:

Ali liste ovog tipa postaju na neki način tupe, zato mi dozvolite da kažem samo ovo:

if you're a progressive,

ako ste napredni,

if you're driving a Prius, or you're shopping green,

ako vozite "Prijus" ili ako kupujete ekološki,

or you're looking for organic,

ili ako tražite organsko,

you should probably be a semi-vegetarian.

onda bi verovatno trebalo da budete polu-vegetarijanac.

Now, I'm no more anti-cattle than I am anti-atom,

E sada, ja nisam ništa više protiv krava, nego što sam protiv atoma,

but it's all in the way we use these things.

ali sve je u načinu na koji koristimo te stvari.

There's another piece of the puzzle,

Postoji još jedan deo slagalice

which Ann Cooper talked about beautifully yesterday,

o kome je En Kuper juče divno govorila,

and one you already know.

onaj koji već poznajete.

There's no question, none, that so-called lifestyle diseases --

Nema sumnje - nikakve - da su tzv. oboljenja izazvana životnim stilovima -

diabetes, heart disease, stroke, some cancers --

dijabetes, srčana oboljenja, infarkti i neki rakovi -

are diseases that are far more prevalent here

bolesti koje su mnogo više zastupljene ovde (SAD)

than anywhere in the rest of the world.

nego bilo gde drugo u svetu.

And that's the direct result of eating a Western diet.

To je direktna posledica zapadnjačke ishrane.

Our demand for meat, dairy and refined carbohydrates --

Naša potražnja za mesom, mlečnim proizvodima i prerađenim ugljenim hidratima -

the world consumes one billion cans or bottles of Coke a day --

svet dnevno troši jednu milijardu limenki ili flaša "Koka Kole" -

our demand for these things, not our need, our want,

naša potražnja tih stvari, ne naša potreba, naša želja -

drives us to consume way more calories than are good for us.

nas navodi da unosimo mnogo više kalorija nego što je to za nas dobro.

And those calories are in foods that cause, not prevent, disease.

A te kalorje se nalaze u hrani koja prouzrokuje, a ne onoj koja sprečava, bolesti.

Now global warming was unforeseen.

Globalno zagrevanje je bilo nepredviđeno.

We didn't know that pollution did more than cause bad visibility.

Nismo znali da je zagađenje učinilo išta osim što je prouzrokovalo lošu vidljivost.

Maybe a few lung diseases here and there,

Možda po koje plućno oboljenje tu i tamo,

but, you know, that's not such a big deal.

ali znate, to i nije tako velika stvar.

The current health crisis, however,

Međutim, trenutna zdravstvena kriza

is a little more the work of the evil empire.

je nešto više od dela zlog carstva.

We were told, we were assured,

Rečeno nam je, ubeđivali su nas,

that the more meat and dairy and poultry we ate,

da što više mesa i mlečnih proizvoda jedemo

the healthier we'd be.

zdraviji ćemo biti.

No. Overconsumption of animals, and of course, junk food,

Ne. Prekomerna ishrana na bazi životinja i naravno, nezdrave brze hrane,

is the problem, along with our paltry consumption of plants.

je problem, zajedno sa našom neznatnom ishranom na bazi biljaka.

Now, there's no time to get into the benefits of eating plants here,

E sada, nemamo vremena da ulazimo u dobrobiti jedenja biljaka,

but the evidence is that plants -- and I want to make this clear --

ali dokaz je da biljke - želim da budem jasan -

it's not the ingredients in plants, it's the plants.

ne radi se o biljnim sastojcima već o biljkama.

It's not the beta-carotene, it's the carrot.

Ne radi se o beta karotenu, već o šargarepi.

The evidence is very clear that plants promote health.

Postoji jasan dokaz da biljke poboljšavaju zdravlje.

This evidence is overwhelming at this point.

Taj dokaz je u ovom trenutku ogroman.

You eat more plants, you eat less other stuff, you live longer.

Ako jedete više biljaka, jedete manje ostalih stvari, živite duže.

Not bad.

Nije loše.

But back to animals and junk food.

Ali, vratimo se na životinje i nezdravu brzu hranu.

What do they have in common?

Šta imaju zajedničko?

One: we don't need either of them for health.

Pod jedan: nijedan nam nije potreban iz zdravstvenih razloga.

We don't need animal products,

Ne trebaju nam životinjski proizvodi,

and we certainly don't need white bread or Coke.

a posebno nam ne trebaju beli hleb ili "Koka Kola".

Two: both have been marketed heavily,

Pod dva: oba se preterano mnogo reklamiraju,

creating unnatural demand.

doprinoseći na taj način stvaranju neprirodne potražnje.

We're not born craving Whoppers or Skittles.

Nismo rođeni sa žudnjom za hamburgerima i gumenim bombonama.

Three: their production has been supported by government agencies

Pod tri: njihovu proizvodnju podržavaju vladine organizacije

at the expense of a more health- and Earth-friendly diet.

na račun zdravlja i ekološke hrane.

Now, let's imagine a parallel.

Zamislimo sada paralelu.

Let's pretend that our government supported an oil-based economy,

Pretvarajmo se da naša vlada podržava ekonomiju baziranu na nafti

while discouraging more sustainable forms of energy,

dok istovremeno obeshrabruje samoodržavajuće oblike energija,

knowing all the while that the result would be

sve vreme znajući da će rezultat biti

pollution, war and rising costs.

zagađenje, rat i rastući troškovi.

Incredible, isn't it?

Neverovatno, zar ne?

Yet they do that.

Da, oni to rade.

And they do this here. It's the same deal.

To rade i ovde. Ista je stvar.

The sad thing is, when it comes to diet,

Tužno je, da kada se radi o ishrani,

is that even when well-intentioned Feds

čak i kada dobronamerni vladini činovnici

try to do right by us, they fail.

pokušavaju da urade nešto dobro, ne uspevaju.

Either they're outvoted by puppets of agribusiness,

Ili su nadglasani pionima agro-biznisa,

or they are puppets of agribusiness.

ili su sami pioni agro-biznisa.

So, when the USDA finally acknowledged

Tako da kada je američko ministarstvo poljoprivrede konačno priznalo

that it was plants, rather than animals, that made people healthy,

da su biljke, a ne životinje ono što ljude čini zdravima,

they encouraged us, via their overly simplistic food pyramid,

podstaklo nas je, putem svoje pojednostavljenje piramide ishrane,

to eat five servings of fruits and vegetables a day,

da jedemo voće i povrće pet puta dnevno,

along with more carbs.

zajedno sa više ugljenih hidrata.

What they didn't tell us is that some carbs are better than others,

Ono što nam nisu rekli je da su neki ugljeni hidrati bolji od drugih,

and that plants and whole grains

i da bi biljke i neprerađene žitarice

should be supplanting eating junk food.

trebalo da nadomeste jedenje nezdrave brze hrane.

But industry lobbyists would never let that happen.

Ali industrijski lobi to nikada ne bi dozvolio.

And guess what?

I pogodite šta?

Half the people who developed the food pyramid

Polovina ljudi koja je radila na pravljenju piramide ishrane

have ties to agribusiness.

ima veze sa agro-biznisom.

So, instead of substituting plants for animals,

Tako da umesto da zamene životinje biljkama,

our swollen appetites simply became larger,

nasi progutani apetiti jednostavno postaju veći,

and the most dangerous aspects of them remained unchanged.

a njihov najopasniji vid je ostao nepromenjen.

So-called low-fat diets, so-called low-carb diets --

Takozvane dijete sa malo masti, takozvane dijete sa malo ugljenih hidrata -

these are not solutions.

nisu rešenja.

But with lots of intelligent people

Ali i sa mnogo inteligentnih ljudi

focusing on whether food is organic or local,

koji vode računa o tome da li je hrana organska ili lokalna,

or whether we're being nice to animals,

i o tome da li smo dobri prema životinjama,

the most important issues just aren't being addressed.

najvažnija pitanja nisu potegnuta.

Now, don't get me wrong.

Nemojte me pogrešno shvatiti.

I like animals,

Ja volim životinje

and I don't think it's just fine to industrialize their production

i ne mislim da je u redu da ih proizvodimo industrijski

and to churn them out like they were wrenches.

i da ih štancujemo kao ključeve.

But there's no way to treat animals well,

Ali ne postoji način na koji životinje možete humano tretirati

when you're killing 10 billion of them a year.

kada ih ubijate na desetine milijardi godišnje.

That's our number. 10 billion.

To je naš broj. 10 milijardi.

If you strung all of them --

Kada biste ih sve poređali u liniju -

chickens, cows, pigs and lambs -- to the moon,

piliće, krave, svinje i jagnjad - do meseca,

they'd go there and back five times, there and back.

stigli bi do tamo i nazad pet puta - tamo i nazad.

Now, my math's a little shaky, but this is pretty good,

E sad, moja matematika nije sjajna, ali to je dosta,

and it depends whether a pig is four feet long or five feet long,

i zavisi da li je svinja dugačka 1.2 ili 1.5 metara,

but you get the idea.

ali razumete već šta hoću da kažem.

That's just the United States.

To je samo SAD.

And with our hyper-consumption of those animals

I sa našom hiper-konzumacijom tih životinja

producing greenhouse gases and heart disease,

koja ispušta gasove sa efektom staklene bašte i prouzrokuje srčana oboljenja,

kindness might just be a bit of a red herring.

ljubaznost može samo da bude zabluda.

Let's get the numbers of the animals we're killing for eating down,

Hajde da stavimo na papir broj životinja koje ubijamo radi ishrane

and then we'll worry about being nice to the ones that are left.

i onda ćemo da brinemo o tome da budemo dobri prema onima koje su preostale.

Another red herring might be exemplified by the word "locavore,"

Druga zabluda može biti objašnjena rečju "lokavor",

which was just named word of the year by the New Oxford American Dictionary.

koju je Novi oksfordski američki rečnik upravo proglasio Rečju Godine.

Seriously.

Ozbiljno.

And locavore, for those of you who don't know,

A lokavor, za one od vas koji ne znaju,

is someone who eats only locally grown food --

je neko ko jede samo hranu koja je uzgajena lokalno.

which is fine if you live in California,

Što je u redu ako živite u Kaliforniji,

but for the rest of us it's a bit of a sad joke.

ali za nas ostale, to je pomalo tužna šala.

Between the official story -- the food pyramid --

Između zvanične priče - piramida ishrane -

and the hip locavore vision,

i moderne vizije lokavora,

you have two versions of how to improve our eating.

imate dve verzije o tome kako da poboljšate svoju ishranu.

(Laughter).

(Smeh).

They both get it wrong, though.

Ipak, nijedna nije u pravu.

The first at least is populist, and the second is elitist.

Prva je ako ništa drugo narodska, a druga je elitistička.

How we got to this place is the history of food in the United States.

Kako smo dovde došli je istorija ishrane u SAD.

And I'm going to go through that,

I proći ću kroz nju,

at least the last hundred years or so, very quickly right now.

barem kroz poslednjih sto godina, veoma brzo.

A hundred years ago, guess what?

Pogodite šta je bilo pre sto godina?

Everyone was a locavore: even New York had pig farms nearby,

Svi su bili lokavori, čak je i Njujork imao farme svinja u okolini,

and shipping food all over the place was a ridiculous notion.

a transport hrane unaokolo je bio smešan pojam.

Every family had a cook, usually a mom.

Svaka porodica je imala kuvara, obično je to bila mama.

And those moms bought and prepared food.

I te mame su kupovale i pripremale hranu.

It was like your romantic vision of Europe.

Bilo je to nešto kao naša romantična vizija Evrope.

Margarine didn't exist.

Margarin nije postojao.

In fact, when margarine was invented,

U stvari, kada je margarin izmišljen,

several states passed laws declaring that it had to be dyed pink,

nekoliko država u SAD su donele zakon da mora biti obojen u roze

so we'd all know that it was a fake.

da bismo svi znali da je veštački proizvod.

There was no snack food, and until the '20s,

Nije bilo grickalica, a do dvadesetih,

until Clarence Birdseye came along, there was no frozen food.

dok se nije pojavio "Klarens Brdsaj", nije bilo ni smrznute hrane.

There were no restaurant chains.

Nije bilo lanaca restorana.

There were neighborhood restaurants run by local people,

Bilo je restorana u naseljima koje su vodili lokalni ljudi,

but none of them would think to open another one.

ali niko od njih nije ni pomišljao da otvori još jedan.

Eating ethnic was unheard of unless you were ethnic.

Nacionalne kuhinje su bile neznanica osim ako ste sami bili nekog etničkog porekla.

And fancy food was entirely French.

A pomodarska hrana je bila francuska.

As an aside, those of you who remember

Usput, samo da dodam, oni od vas koji se sećaju

Dan Aykroyd in the 1970s doing Julia Child imitations

Dena Akrojda kako sedamdesetih imitira Džuliju Čajld

can see where he got the idea of stabbing himself from this fabulous slide.

mogu na ovom slajdu da vide gde je dobio ideju da sam sebe izbode.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

Back in those days, before even Julia,

U ondašnje vreme, čak i pre Džulije,

back in those days, there was no philosophy of food.

u ondašnje vreme nije bilo filozofije o hrani.

You just ate.

Samo ste jeli.

You didn't claim to be anything.

Niste tvrdili da ste išta.

There was no marketing. There were no national brands.

Nije bilo marketinga. Nije bilo domaćih marki.

Vitamins had not been invented.

Vitamini nisu bili pronađeni.

There were no health claims, at least not federally sanctioned ones.

Nije bilo zdravstvenih problema, barem ne onih koje je vlada kažnjavala.

Fats, carbs, proteins -- they weren't bad or good, they were food.

Masti, ugljeni hidrati, proteini - nisu bili loši ili dobri, bili su samo hrana.

You ate food.

Jeli ste hranu.

Hardly anything contained more than one ingredient,

Skoro ništa nije sadržalo više od jednog sastojka,

because it was an ingredient.

jer je to bio samo sastojak.

The cornflake hadn't been invented.

Kornfleks nije bio izmišljen.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

The Pop-Tart, the Pringle, Cheez Whiz, none of that stuff.

"Smoki", perece, čips, ništa od tih stvari nije postojalo.

Goldfish swam.

"Životinjsko carstvo" je bilo divlje.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

It's hard to imagine. People grew food, and they ate food.

Teško je zamisliti. Ljudi su gajili i jeli hranu.

And again, everyone ate local.

I naravno, svi su jeli lokalno.

In New York, an orange was a common Christmas present,

Narandža je u Njujorku bila uobičajen božićni poklon

because it came all the way from Florida.

zato što je dolazila čak iz Floride.

From the '30s on, road systems expanded,

Od 1930-ih pa nadalje putevi su se proširili,

trucks took the place of railroads,

kamioni su zamenili železnicu,

fresh food began to travel more.

i sveža hrana je počela sve više da putuje.

Oranges became common in New York.

Narandže su postale uobičajene u Njujorku.

The South and West became agricultural hubs,

Jug i zapad su postali središta agrikulture,

and in other parts of the country, suburbs took over farmland.

a u ostalim delovima zemlje, poljoporivredna zemljišta su zamenjena predgrađima.

The effects of this are well known. They are everywhere.

Posledice ovoga su dobro poznate, ima ih svuda.

And the death of family farms is part of this puzzle,

A smrt porodičnih farmi je deo ove slagalice,

as is almost everything

kao što je i sve ostalo,

from the demise of the real community

od propasti pravih društvenih zajednica (sela)

to the challenge of finding a good tomato, even in summer.

do težine pronalaženja dobrog pradajaza, čak i tokom leta.

Eventually, California produced too much food to ship fresh,

Sa vremenom, Kalifornija je proizvodila suviše sveže hrane za transport,

so it became critical to market canned and frozen foods.

tako da je postalo neophodno izbaciti na tržište konzerviranu i zamrznutu hranu.

Thus arrived convenience.

Tako je nastala lagodnost.

It was sold to proto-feminist housewives

Ona je prodavana je pre-feminističkim domaćicama

as a way to cut down on housework.

nudeći im mogućnost da smanje količinu kućnih poslova.

Now, I know everybody over the age of, like 45 --

E sad, znam da svima koji imaju preko 45 godina

their mouths are watering at this point.

curi voda iz usta u ovom trenutku.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

(Applause)

(Aplauz)

If we had a slide of Salisbury steak, even more so, right?

A da imamo slajd sa šniclom, još bi nam više curila, zar ne?

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

But this may have cut down on housework,

Međutim, to nam je možda smanjilo kućne poslove,

but it cut down on the variety of food we ate as well.

ali je isto tako smanjilo i raznovrsnost hrane koju smo jeli.

Many of us grew up never eating a fresh vegetable

Mnogi od nas su odrasli, a da nikada nisu pojeli sveže povrće

except the occasional raw carrot or maybe an odd lettuce salad.

osim povremene sveže šargarepe ili možda čudne zelene salate.

I, for one -- and I'm not kidding --

Ja, na prvom mestu - i ne šalim se -

didn't eat real spinach or broccoli till I was 19.

nisam jeo pravi spanać ili brokoli dok nisam napunio 19 godina.

Who needed it though? Meat was everywhere.

A i kome je trebao? Mesa je bilo svuda.

What could be easier, more filling or healthier for your family

Šta bi drugo bilo jednostavnije, ukusnije ili zdravije za vašu porodicu

than broiling a steak?

od pečene šnicle?

But by then cattle were already raised unnaturally.

Ali, stoka je tada već bila uzgajana na neprirodan način.

Rather than spending their lives eating grass,

Umesto što je provodila život pasući travu,

for which their stomachs were designed,

za koju je njen stomak i predodređen,

they were forced to eat soy and corn.

stoka je bila primoravana da jede soju i kukuruz.

They have trouble digesting those grains, of course,

Stoka, naravno ima problema kada vari ove žitarice,

but that wasn't a problem for producers.

ali to za prozivođače nije bio problem.

New drugs kept them healthy.

Novi lekovi su stoku održavali zdravom.

Well, they kept them alive.

U stvari, održavali su je živom.

Healthy was another story.

Zdravlje je bila već druga priča.

Thanks to farm subsidies,

Zahvaljujući subvencijama za agrikulturu,

the fine collaboration between agribusiness and Congress,

kao i saradnji između agro-biznisa i Parlamenta,

soy, corn and cattle became king.

soja, kukuruz i stoka su postali kralj.

And chicken soon joined them on the throne.

A uskoro im se na tronu pridružila i živina.

It was during this period that the cycle of

U toku ovog perioda je počeo ciklus

dietary and planetary destruction began,

dijetetskog i planetarnog uništavanja.

the thing we're only realizing just now.

stvar koju tek sada počinjemo da spoznajemo.

Listen to this,

Slušajte ovo:

between 1950 and 2000, the world's population doubled.

između 1950. i 2000. svetska populacija se udvostručila.

Meat consumption increased five-fold.

Konzumacija mesa se upetostručila.

Now, someone had to eat all that stuff, so we got fast food.

Neko je morao sve to da pojede i tako smo dobili brzu hranu.

And this took care of the situation resoundingly.

I ona se pobrinula za situaciju.

Home cooking remained the norm, but its quality was down the tubes.

Domaća kuhinja je ostala norma, ali je njen kvalitet znatno oslabio.

There were fewer meals with home-cooked breads, desserts and soups,

Bilo je manje jela sa domaćim hlebom, poslasticama i supama,

because all of them could be bought at any store.

zato što ste sve njih mogli da kupite u bilo kojoj prodavnici.

Not that they were any good, but they were there.

Nije da su bili dobri, ali bilo ih je.

Most moms cooked like mine:

Većina mama je kuvala kao moja -

a piece of broiled meat, a quickly made salad with bottled dressing,

komad pečenog mesa, brza salata sa kupovnim prelivom,

canned soup, canned fruit salad.

supa iz konzerve, voćna salata iz konzerve.

Maybe baked or mashed potatoes,

Možda i pečeni ili pire krompir

or perhaps the stupidest food ever, Minute Rice.

ili možda najgluplja hrana ikada - "pirinač za minut".

For dessert, store-bought ice cream or cookies.

Za dezert, kupovni sladoled ili kolači.

My mom is not here, so I can say this now.

Mama mi nije tu, tako da ovo mogu da kažem.

This kind of cooking drove me to learn how to cook for myself.

Ova vrsta kuvanja me je navela da naučim da kuvam sam za sebe.

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

It wasn't all bad.

Uopšte nije bilo loše.

By the '70s, forward-thinking people

Do početka sedamdesetih ljudi naprednog razmišljanja

began to recognize the value of local ingredients.

su počeli da shvataju vrednost lokalnih sastojaka.

We tended gardens, we became interested in organic food,

Negovali smo bašte i postali smo zainteresovani za organsku hranu,

we knew or we were vegetarians.

znali smo ili smo bili vegetarijanci.

We weren't all hippies, either.

Nismo ni svi bili hipici.

Some of us were eating in good restaurants and learning how to cook well.

Neki od nas su jeli u dobrim restoranima i učili kako da dobro kuvaju.

Meanwhile, food production had become industrial. Industrial.

U međuvremenu, proizvodnja hrane je postala industrijska. Industrijska.

Perhaps because it was being produced rationally,

Možda zato što je proizvođena razumno,

as if it were plastic,

kao da je plastika,

food gained magical or poisonous powers, or both.

hrana je dobila magične ili otrovne moći ili obe.

Many people became fat-phobic.

Mnogi ljudi su dobili fobiju na masnoće.

Others worshiped broccoli, as if it were God-like.

Drugi su obožavali brokoli kao da je Bog.

But mostly they didn't eat broccoli.

Ali u većini slučajeva oni nisu jeli brokoli.

Instead they were sold on yogurt,

Umesto toga, jeli su jogurt,

yogurt being almost as good as broccoli.

jogurt koji je skoro dobar koliko i brokoli.

Except, in reality, the way the industry sold yogurt

Osim što je u stvarnosti način na koji je industrija prodavala jogurt

was to convert it to something much more akin to ice cream.

bio da ga pretvori u nešto mnogo sličnije sladoledu.

Similarly, let's look at a granola bar.

Na sličan način, pogledajmo "Bonžitu".

You think that that might be healthy food,

Mislite da je to možda zdrava hrana,

but in fact, if you look at the ingredient list,

ali ako zapravo pogledate listu sastojaka

it's closer in form to a Snickers than it is to oatmeal.

videćete da je bliža "Snikers" čokoladi nego žitaricama.

Sadly, it was at this time that the family dinner was put in a coma,

Na žalost, u to vreme je porodična večera pala u komu,

if not actually killed --

ako nije zapravo bila ubijena.

the beginning of the heyday of value-added food,

Bio je to početak vrhunca obogaćene hrane

which contained as many soy and corn products

koja je sadrzala onoliko soje i kukuruznih prozivoda

as could be crammed into it.

koliko ih je u nju moglo da stane.

Think of the frozen chicken nugget.

Pomislite na zamrznute pohovane pilece komade.

The chicken is fed corn, and then its meat is ground up,

Pile jede kukuruz, a onda je njegovo meso samleveno

and mixed with more corn products to add bulk and binder,

i pomesano sa jos vise kukuruznih prozivoda da bi se povezalo i dobilo na masi,

and then it's fried in corn oil.

a onda se przi u kukuruznom ulju.

All you do is nuke it. What could be better?

Vi ga samo podgrejete. Ima li neceg boljeg?

And zapped horribly, pathetically.

A u stvari je meso patetično i gnusno uništeno.

By the '70s, home cooking was in such a sad state

Do početka sedamdesetih, kuvanje je bilo u tako tužnom stanju

that the high fat and spice contents of foods

da je visok sadržaj masti i začina u hrani

like McNuggets and Hot Pockets --

kao što je "McNuggets" ili mini zaleđeni sendviči -

and we all have our favorites, actually --

a svi mi zapravo imamo omiljene -

made this stuff more appealing than the bland things

učinio ove stvari privlačnijim od onih bezukusnih

that people were serving at home.

koje su ljudi jeli kod kuće.

At the same time, masses of women were entering the workforce,

Istovremeno, mase žena su postajale radna snaga,

and cooking simply wasn't important enough

i kuvanje više jednistavno nije bilo dovoljno važno

for men to share the burden.

muškarcima da bi učestvovali u njemu.

So now, you've got your pizza nights, you've got your microwave nights,

Sada imate pica večeri i mikrotalasne večeri,

you've got your grazing nights,

imate večeri kada jedete ostatke od prethodnih večera,

you've got your fend-for-yourself nights and so on.

imate "snađi se sam" večeri i tako dalje.

Leading the way -- what's leading the way?

A na čelu je - šta je na čelu?

Meat, junk food, cheese:

Meso, brza nezdrava hrana, sir.

the very stuff that will kill you.

Sve one stvari koje će vas ubiti.

So, now we clamor for organic food.

A sada zahtevamo organsku hranu.

That's good.

To je dobro.

And as evidence that things can actually change,

I kao dokaz da se stvari zapravo mogu promeniti

you can now find organic food in supermarkets,

sada možete naći organsku hranu u svim supermarketima

and even in fast-food outlets.

i čak i u restoranima brze hrane.

But organic food isn't the answer either,

Ali ni organska hrana nije odgovor,

at least not the way it's currently defined.

barem ne na način na koji je trenutno opisana.

Let me pose you a question.

Dozvolite da vam postavim pitanje.

Can farm-raised salmon be organic,

Da li losos iz ribnjaka može biti organski,

when its feed has nothing to do with its natural diet,

ako njegova hrana nema nikakve veze sa njegovom prirodnom dijetom,

even if the feed itself is supposedly organic, and the fish themselves

čak i ako je ta hrana, pretpostavimo, organska; a ribe su u ribnjaku

are packed tightly in pens, swimming in their own filth?

gusto zbijene, plivajući u sopstvenoj prljavštini?

And if that salmon's from Chile, and it's killed down there

I ako je losos iz Čilea i tamo je ubijen

and then flown 5,000 miles, whatever,

a onda je leteo 8,000 km ili koliko već,

dumping how much carbon into the atmosphere?

pritom doprinoseći koliko ugljenika u atmosferu?

I don't know.

Ne znam.

Packed in Styrofoam, of course,

Zapakovan u stiropor, naravno,

before landing somewhere in the United States,

pre nego što sleti negde u SAD,

and then being trucked a few hundred more miles.

a onda je prevezen kamionom još nekoliko stotina kilometara.

This may be organic in letter, but it's surely not organic in spirit.

Ovo je možda organsko na papiru, ali sigurno nije organsko u duhu.

Now here is where we all meet.

E sada, evo gde se svi sastajemo.

The locavores, the organivores, the vegetarians,

Lokavori, organivori, vegetarijanci,

the vegans, the gourmets

vegani, sladokusci

and those of us who are just plain interested in good food.

i oni koji smo samo jednstavno zainteresovani za dobru hranu.

Even though we've come to this from different points,

Iako smo dovde došli iz različitih tački,

we all have to act on our knowledge

svi moramo da nešto preduzmeno

to change the way that everyone thinks about food.

da bismo promenili način na koji svi razmišljaju o hrani.

We need to start acting.

Moramo da uradimo nešto.

And this is not only an issue of social justice, as Ann Cooper said --

A ovo nije samo stvar društvene pravde, kao što je En Kuper rekla -

and, of course, she's completely right --

i naravno, u potpunosti je u pravu -

but it's also one of global survival.

već je takođe i stvar globalnog preživljavanja.

Which bring me full circle and points directly to the core issue,

To me navodi da zatvorim krug i direktno ukažem na stvari koje su u samoj srži,

the overproduction and overconsumption of meat and junk food.

prekomerna prozivodnja i prekomerna potrošnja mesa i nezdrave brze hrane.

As I said, 18 percent of greenhouse gases

Kao što sam rekao, 18% gasova sa efektom staklene bašte

are attributed to livestock production.

dolazi od uzgajanja stoke.

How much livestock do you need to produce this?

Koliko je stoke potrebno za ovu količinu gasova?

70 percent of the agricultural land on Earth,

70% zemljišta za agrikulturu.

30 percent of the Earth's land surface is directly or indirectly devoted

30% zemljine kopnene površine je direktno ili indirektno posvećeno

to raising the animals we'll eat.

uzgoju životinja koje ćemo jesti.

And this amount is predicted to double in the next 40 years or so.

Predviđeno je da će se ova količina udvostručiti u narednih 40-ak godina.

And if the numbers coming in from China

A ako su brojevi iz Kine

are anything like what they look like now,

imalo slični onome kako danas izgledaju,

it's not going to be 40 years.

onda ne govorimo o 40 godina.

There is no good reason for eating as much meat as we do.

Nema opravdanja za količinu mesa koju jedemo.

And I say this as a man who has eaten a fair share of corned beef in his life.

I to kažem kao čovek koji je pojeo popriličnu količinu govedine tokom svog života.

The most common argument is that we need nutrients --

Najčešći argument je da nam trebaju hranljivi sastojci -

even though we eat, on average, twice as much protein

iako, u proseku jedemo duplo više proteina

as even the industry-obsessed USDA recommends.

nego što čak i industrijom-opsednuto američko ministarstvo poljoprivrede preporučuje.

But listen: experts who are serious about disease reduction

Ali slušajte - stručnjaci koji ozbiljno shvataju smanjenje oboljenja

recommend that adults eat just over half a pound of meat per week.

preporučuju odraslima da jedu samo nešto više od 225g mesa nedeljno.

What do you think we eat per day? Half a pound.

Koliko mislite da mi jedemo dnevno? 225 grama.

But don't we need meat to be big and strong?

Ali zar nam meso nije neophodno da bismo bili veliki i snažni?

Isn't meat eating essential to health?

Zar jedenje mesa nije od suštinske važnosti za zdravlje?

Won't a diet heavy in fruit and vegetables

Zar nas dijeta puna voća i povrća

turn us into godless, sissy, liberals?

neće pretvoriti u bezbožne, šonjave liberale?

(Laughter)

(Smeh)

Some of us might think that would be a good thing.

Neki od nas možda misle da bi to bila dobra stvar.

But, no, even if we were all steroid-filled football players,

Ali ne, čak i da smo steroidima napunjeni fudbaleri,

the answer is no.

odgovor je ne.

In fact, there's no diet on Earth that meets

U stvari, ne postoji nijedna dijeta na svetu koja neće,

basic nutritional needs that won't promote growth,

ispunjavajući osnovne hranljive potrebe, promovisati rast,

and many will make you much healthier than ours does.

a mnoge će vas učiniti mnogo zdravijim nego što vas čini naša dijeta.

We don't eat animal products for sufficient nutrition,

Mi ne jedemo životinjske proizvode radi dovoljnih hranljivih stastojaka,

we eat them to have an odd form of malnutrition, and it's killing us.

vec ih jedemo da bismo imali cudnan oblik lose ishrane, i to nas ubija.

To suggest that in the interests of personal and human health

Ako kazemo da radi licnih interesa, ako i interesa ljudskog zdravlja

Americans eat 50 percent less meat --

Amerikanci treba da jedu 50% manje mesa -

it's not enough of a cut, but it's a start.

nije dovoljno smanjenje, ali je neki pocetak.

It would seem absurd, but that's exactly what should happen,

Izgledalo bi apsurdno, ali to je upravo ono što bi trebalo da se desi,

and what progressive people, forward-thinking people

i ono što bi progresivni ljudi, ljudi naprednog razmišljanja

should be doing and advocating,

trebalo da rade i podrzavaju,

along with the corresponding increase in the consumption of plants.

uporedo sa odgovrajucim povecanjem konzumacije biljaka.

I've been writing about food more or less omnivorously --

Pišem o hrani manje više kao neko ko sve jede -

one might say indiscriminately -- for about 30 years.

neko će reci neselektivno - već skoro 30 godina.

During that time, I've eaten

Tokom tog vremena pojeo sam

and recommended eating just about everything.

i preporučio da se pojede, skoro sve.

I'll never stop eating animals, I'm sure,

Nikada neću prestati da jedem životinje, siguran sam

but I do think that for the benefit of everyone,

ali mislim da je za dobrobit svih

the time has come to stop raising them industrially

došlo vreme da prestanemo da životinje uzgajamo industrijskim putem

and stop eating them thoughtlessly.

i da prestanemo da ih jedemo nepromišljeno.

Ann Cooper's right.

En Kuper je u pravu.

The USDA is not our ally here.

Amerikko ministarstvo poljoprivrede nije naš saveznik u ovome.

We have to take matters into our own hands,

Moramo da uzmemo stvari u sopstvene ruke,

not only by advocating for a better diet for everyone --

ne samo tako što ćemo se zalagati za bolju ishranu za sve -

and that's the hard part -- but by improving our own.

a to je teži deo - već i tako što ćemo poboljšati sopstvenu ishranu.

And that happens to be quite easy.

I to postaje prilično lako.

Less meat, less junk, more plants.

Manje mesa, manje nezdrave brze hrane, više biljaka.

It's a simple formula: eat food.

Jednostavna formula - jedite hranu.

Eat real food.

Jedite pravu hranu.

We can continue to enjoy our food, and we continue to eat well,

Možemo da nastavimo da uživamo u našoj hrani i da nastavimo da dobro jedemo,

and we can eat even better.

a možemo da jedemo još bolje.

We can continue the search for the ingredients we love,

Možemo da nastavimo potragu za sastojcima koje volimo

and we can continue to spin yarns about our favorite meals.

i možemo da nastavimo da razglabamo o našim omiljenim jelima.

We'll reduce not only calories, but our carbon footprint.

Smanjićemo ne samo naše kalorije, već i naš karbonski otisak.

We can make food more important, not less,

Možemo učiniti hranu važnijom, a ne nevažnom,

and save ourselves by doing so.

i na taj način sebe spasiti.

We have to choose that path.

Moramo izabrati taj put.

Thank you.

Hvala vam.