What's wrong with what we eat | Mark Bittman

Translator: Alex Lau Reviewer: Cherie Yip

I write about food. I write about cooking.

我寫有關食物同煮嘢嘅文章

I take it quite seriously,

我對呢件事好認真

but I'm here to talk about something

但我響度想講一啲

that's become very important to me in the last year or two.

呢兩年嚟對我嚟講好重要嘅嘢

It is about food, but it's not about cooking, per se.

呢樣嘢係有關食物嘅，但唔係講煮食本身

I'm going to start with this picture of a beautiful cow.

我先用一張好靚嘅母牛相做開場白

I'm not a vegetarian -- this is the old Nixon line, right?

我唔係素食者…尼克遜成日都講呢句，係咪呀？

But I still think that this --

但我就覺得

(Laughter)

(觀眾笑)

-- may be this year's version of this.

呢張可能係今年嘅版本

Now, that is only a little bit hyperbolic.

咁講只係有少少誇張啫

And why do I say it?

點解我咁講？

Because only once before has the fate of individual people

因為史上系依樣野之前只有一次，個人嘅命運

and the fate of all of humanity

同全人類嘅命運

been so intertwined.

有咁緊密相連過

There was the bomb, and there's now.

以前係原子彈，而依家就係呢一刻

And where we go from here is going to determine

而我哋依家行嘅路唔單止決定

not only the quality and the length of our individual lives,

個人生命嘅質素同長短

but whether, if we could see the Earth a century from now,

仲決定一個世紀以後

we'd recognize it.

我哋望返地球嗰陣，仲會唔會認得出佢

It's a holocaust of a different kind,

呢次某程度係一個大屠殺

and hiding under our desks isn't going to help.

而逃避並唔係辦法

Start with the notion that global warming

我哋開始知道全球暖化

is not only real, but dangerous.

唔單止係真嘅，而且仲好危險

Since every scientist in the world now believes this,

依家個個科學家都相信有全球暖化

and even President Bush has seen the light, or pretends to,

就算布殊總統都話佢明白依個事實，又或者佢系扮明白

we can take this is a given.

呢啲嘢可以係前提

Then hear this, please.

咁大家請聽住

After energy production, livestock is the second-highest contributor

家畜係繼能源生產之後

to atmosphere-altering gases.

第二大導致大氣層變化嘅氣體嘅生產者

Nearly one-fifth of all greenhouse gas

近五分一嘅溫室氣體

is generated by livestock production --

係由畜牧產生

more than transportation.

占嘅比重仲大過交通工具

Now, you can make all the jokes you want about cow farts,

任你想點用牛放屁嚟講笑都得

but methane is 20 times more poisonous than CO2,

問題係甲烷比二氧化碳有毒二十倍

and it's not just methane.

而且佢哋製造嘅唔止甲烷

Livestock is also one of the biggest culprits in land degradation,

生畜仲係土地退化，空氣、食水污染

air and water pollution, water shortages and loss of biodiversity.

食水短缺同生物多樣性降低嘅促成者

There's more.

仲有

Like half the antibiotics in this country

全國有一半嘅抗生素

are not administered to people, but to animals.

唔係用響人度，係用咗響禽畜度

But lists like this become kind of numbing, so let me just say this:

但呢啲清單聽得多會麻木，我只係想話

if you're a progressive,

如果你走在時代尖端

if you're driving a Prius, or you're shopping green,

如果你揸緊環保車，或者支持綠色消費

or you're looking for organic,

又或者你搵緊有機食物嚟食

you should probably be a semi-vegetarian.

咁你都應該係半素食嘅

Now, I'm no more anti-cattle than I am anti-atom,

係，我反對食牛肉，好似反原子彈咁樣

but it's all in the way we use these things.

但我反對嘅係我哋人類用呢啲嘢嘅方式

There's another piece of the puzzle,

你地都應該已經知道既

which Ann Cooper talked about beautifully yesterday,

安古柏響尋日精彩嘅演講講到

and one you already know.

呢個現象嘅其中一個構成部份

There's no question, none, that so-called lifestyle diseases --

無容置疑，諗都唔駛諗，啲所謂都市病

diabetes, heart disease, stroke, some cancers --

好似糖尿病，心臟病，中風，某啲癌症

are diseases that are far more prevalent here

呢啲病響呢度

than anywhere in the rest of the world.

都比世界其他地方普遍

And that's the direct result of eating a Western diet.

呢啲病係西方飲食嘅直接結果

Our demand for meat, dairy and refined carbohydrates --

我哋追求肉、奶製品、精製過嘅碳水化合物

the world consumes one billion cans or bottles of Coke a day --

全世界一日飲咗以億樽計嘅可樂

our demand for these things, not our need, our want,

我哋對呢啲嘢嘅需求，唔係必需嘅，只係慾望

drives us to consume way more calories than are good for us.

令我哋食咗太多卡路里

And those calories are in foods that cause, not prevent, disease.

而呢啲卡路里唔會防止疾病，仲反而引起病痛

Now global warming was unforeseen.

無人預計到有全球暖化

We didn't know that pollution did more than cause bad visibility.

我哋唔知污染原來唔止令能見度差咗咁簡單

Maybe a few lung diseases here and there,

仲可能令人有一啲肺部嘅疾病

but, you know, that's not such a big deal.

但你知道，呢啲都唔係咩大不了

The current health crisis, however,

重要係，依家嘅健康危機

is a little more the work of the evil empire.

比阻止邪惡帝國更加棘手

We were told, we were assured,

人哋同我哋講，向我哋保證

that the more meat and dairy and poultry we ate,

家畜、奶製品、家禽食得越多

the healthier we'd be.

我哋就會越健康

No. Overconsumption of animals, and of course, junk food,

錯。唔駛講，過量攝取肉類同垃圾食物

is the problem, along with our paltry consumption of plants.

而蔬果食得少之有少係個問題

Now, there's no time to get into the benefits of eating plants here,

今次無時間講食蔬果有乜好處

but the evidence is that plants -- and I want to make this clear --

但我想講清楚，最重要係蔬菜本身

it's not the ingredients in plants, it's the plants.

唔係蔬菜入面嘅成份，係菜本身

It's not the beta-carotene, it's the carrot.

唔係B-胡蘿蔔素，係紅蘿蔔本身重要

The evidence is very clear that plants promote health.

證據好清楚咁顯示蔬菜促進健康

This evidence is overwhelming at this point.

響呢方面嘅證據係不可置疑

You eat more plants, you eat less other stuff, you live longer.

食多啲蔬果，食少啲其他嘢，你就長命啲

Not bad.

聽落唔錯丫

But back to animals and junk food.

講返肉食同垃圾食品

What do they have in common?

佢地有乜共通點？

One: we don't need either of them for health.

第一，我哋唔駛為咗健康而食呢啲嘢

We don't need animal products,

我哋唔需要肉類製品

and we certainly don't need white bread or Coke.

當然我哋亦唔需要白麵包同可樂

Two: both have been marketed heavily,

第二，呢兩樣嘢都做好多推廣

creating unnatural demand.

製造唔自然嘅需求

We're not born craving Whoppers or Skittles.

我哋唔係生出嚟就淨食三文治或者彩虹糖

Three: their production has been supported by government agencies

第三，呢啲食物嘅生產有政府機構支持

at the expense of a more health- and Earth-friendly diet.

而且代價系取代左一種更健康、更環保嘅飲食方式

Now, let's imagine a parallel.

我哋一齊幻想下有對平行線

Let's pretend that our government supported an oil-based economy,

假設政府支持以石油經濟

while discouraging more sustainable forms of energy,

又唔支持可持續發展嘅能源種類

knowing all the while that the result would be

而且佢知道後果會係

pollution, war and rising costs.

污染、戰爭、成本上升

Incredible, isn't it?

不可思議呀呵？

Yet they do that.

但佢地係要咁做

And they do this here. It's the same deal.

佢哋就響度做呢啲嘢，係一樣㗎咋

The sad thing is, when it comes to diet,

可惜嘅係，講到飲食習慣

is that even when well-intentioned Feds

就算聯邦政府好心地咁

try to do right by us, they fail.

想為我哋撥亂反正，都衰咗

Either they're outvoted by puppets of agribusiness,

一係佢哋投票輸咗畀農業企業嘅傀儡

or they are puppets of agribusiness.

又或者佢哋就係農業企業嘅傀儡

So, when the USDA finally acknowledged

所以當美國農業部最終承認

that it was plants, rather than animals, that made people healthy,

蔬果而唔係肉類令人健康之後

they encouraged us, via their overly simplistic food pyramid,

佢哋用過份簡化嘅食物金字塔去鼓勵我哋

to eat five servings of fruits and vegetables a day,

每日食五份蔬果

along with more carbs.

同埋食多啲碳水化合物

What they didn't tell us is that some carbs are better than others,

佢哋無講嘅係有啲碳水化合物係好啲

and that plants and whole grains

而蔬果同全穀食物

should be supplanting eating junk food.

應該取代晒垃圾食物

But industry lobbyists would never let that happen.

但業界嘅說客又點會畀呢啲嘢發生

And guess what?

你估下實情係點？

Half the people who developed the food pyramid

諗呢個食物金字塔嘅人入面有一半

have ties to agribusiness.

同農業企業有關係

So, instead of substituting plants for animals,

所以蔬菜唔單指無取代到肉

our swollen appetites simply became larger,

我哋吃肉嘅胃口反而越變越大

and the most dangerous aspects of them remained unchanged.

而當中對身體最危險嘅影響仍然無變

So-called low-fat diets, so-called low-carb diets --

嗰啲所謂低脂飲食、低澱粉質飲食

these are not solutions.

都唔係解決方法

But with lots of intelligent people

但好多聰明人

focusing on whether food is organic or local,

只著眼啲食物係咪有機或者本地嘅

or whether we're being nice to animals,

或者係咪善待啲動物

the most important issues just aren't being addressed.

但最重要嘅問題就無觸及到

Now, don't get me wrong.

唔好誤會

I like animals,

我好鍾意動物

and I don't think it's just fine to industrialize their production

我唔認同將佢哋嘅生產過程工業化

and to churn them out like they were wrenches.

粗製濫造啲肉類出嚟

But there's no way to treat animals well,

但當你一年殺成百億動物嗰陣

when you're killing 10 billion of them a year.

就無辦法講點善待啲動物

That's our number. 10 billion.

呢個係我哋呢度嘅數字，一百億

If you strung all of them --

如果將啲雞呀、牛呀、豬呀、羊呀

chickens, cows, pigs and lambs -- to the moon,

動物排成一列去月球

they'd go there and back five times, there and back.

條隊由呢度到月球可以來回五次

Now, my math's a little shaky, but this is pretty good,

我啲數學麻麻地，但系計依嘀都仲系夠用既

and it depends whether a pig is four feet long or five feet long,

仲要視乎隻豬係四呎定五呎長

but you get the idea.

不過你明啦

That's just the United States.

呢個數淨係計美國入面咋喎

And with our hyper-consumption of those animals

我哋過度食用呢啲肉類

producing greenhouse gases and heart disease,

產生咁多溫室氣體，引起咁多心臟疾病

kindness might just be a bit of a red herring.

呢啲慈悲似乎只係用嚟轉移視線

Let's get the numbers of the animals we're killing for eating down,

我哋殺咗啲動物，食咗佢哋

and then we'll worry about being nice to the ones that are left.

然後諗下要點樣對剩低嘅動物好啲

Another red herring might be exemplified by the word "locavore,"

另一個煙幕可以用「土食主義者」做例子

which was just named word of the year by the New Oxford American Dictionary.

呢個詞啱啱畀新牛津美語大辭典稱為本年度嘅風雲詞彙

Seriously.

講真㗎

And locavore, for those of you who don't know,

土食主義者就係

is someone who eats only locally grown food --

一啲只食本土種植嘅食品嘅人

which is fine if you live in California,

如果你住加州就無問題

but for the rest of us it's a bit of a sad joke.

但其他人嚟講就難度好高

Between the official story -- the food pyramid --

響正統嘅食物金字塔

and the hip locavore vision,

同時興嘅土食主義之間

you have two versions of how to improve our eating.

大家有兩款版本點去食好啲

(Laughter).

(笑)

They both get it wrong, though.

但雙方都諗錯方向

The first at least is populist, and the second is elitist.

第一款至少都想普及一啲，而第二款直頭係精英主義

How we got to this place is the history of food in the United States.

我哋變成咁樣，就要由美國食物史講起

And I'm going to go through that,

而我依家帶你哋

at least the last hundred years or so, very quickly right now.

好快咁睇下過去一百年係點

A hundred years ago, guess what?

一百年前係點樣？

Everyone was a locavore: even New York had pig farms nearby,

個個都係食本地生產嘅食物

and shipping food all over the place was a ridiculous notion.

運啲食物去第二度簡直妙想天開

Every family had a cook, usually a mom.

每個屋企都有廚師，多數係由阿媽做埋

And those moms bought and prepared food.

佢地買材料同煮嘢食

It was like your romantic vision of Europe.

就好似你哋幻想中浪漫嘅歐洲咁樣

Margarine didn't exist.

人造牛油未出現

In fact, when margarine was invented,

其實人造牛油面世時

several states passed laws declaring that it had to be dyed pink,

有幾個州份都通過話要佢哋染成粉紅色

so we'd all know that it was a fake.

等啲人知呢啲唔係真牛油

There was no snack food, and until the '20s,

嗰陣都未有零食，到二十年代

until Clarence Birdseye came along, there was no frozen food.

發明家貝爾塞發明急凍技術，至有急凍食品

There were no restaurant chains.

嗰陣無連鎖餐廳

There were neighborhood restaurants run by local people,

得一嗰由本地人開畀鄰居嘅食肆

but none of them would think to open another one.

無人諗住要開多間分店

Eating ethnic was unheard of unless you were ethnic.

傳統飲食係聞所未聞，除非你本身係小數民族啦

And fancy food was entirely French.

啲花巧食物全部都係嚟自法國

As an aside, those of you who remember

講開又講，如果你記得七十年代

Dan Aykroyd in the 1970s doing Julia Child imitations

丹‧艾克洛德扮茱莉亞‧查爾德嘅話

can see where he got the idea of stabbing himself from this fabulous slide.

睇到呢張圖你就知點解佢有咁嘅諗頭

(Laughter)

(笑)

Back in those days, before even Julia,

響茱莉亞出名之前

back in those days, there was no philosophy of food.

嗰陣都無乜人提倡飲食文化

You just ate.

食嘢就係食嘢

You didn't claim to be anything.

唔駛提倡啲乜嘢主義

There was no marketing. There were no national brands.

嗰陣無市場推廣，無全國性品牌

Vitamins had not been invented.

維他命丸都未有

There were no health claims, at least not federally sanctioned ones.

亦都無健康宣稱，連聯邦法例批准嘅都無

Fats, carbs, proteins -- they weren't bad or good, they were food.

脂肪、澱粉質、蛋白質，都無分好壞，佢哋只係食物

You ate food.

你就只係食食物

Hardly anything contained more than one ingredient,

好多時啲嘢食好少多過一個材料

because it was an ingredient.

因為佢哋本身就係材料

The cornflake hadn't been invented.

嗰陣未發明粟米片

(Laughter)

(笑)

The Pop-Tart, the Pringle, Cheez Whiz, none of that stuff.

甜夾心餅、薯片、芝士醬，呢啲嘢都未有

Goldfish swam.

當時金魚係游水（註：不是金魚餅）

(Laughter)

(笑)

It's hard to imagine. People grew food, and they ate food.

好難想像。嗰陣自己種嘢食，然後食種出嚟嘅嘢食

And again, everyone ate local.

講多一次，佢哋食本地出產嘅食物

In New York, an orange was a common Christmas present,

響紐約，聖誕節送橙好普遍

because it came all the way from Florida.

因為橙要由佛羅里達州運嚟

From the '30s on, road systems expanded,

三十年代起，道路系統擴展

trucks took the place of railroads,

貨車取代鐵路

fresh food began to travel more.

新鮮食物開始越運越遠

Oranges became common in New York.

橙響紐約變得唾手可得

The South and West became agricultural hubs,

南部同西部成為農業重鎮

and in other parts of the country, suburbs took over farmland.

其他地方嘅農地變成近郊

The effects of this are well known. They are everywhere.

帶嚟嘅影響深遠，到處可見

And the death of family farms is part of this puzzle,

家庭式農場嘅消失是其中一環

as is almost everything

就好似從真正社區沒落

from the demise of the real community

到夏天都難搵一個靚蕃茄咁

to the challenge of finding a good tomato, even in summer.

都係影響嘅一部份

Eventually, California produced too much food to ship fresh,

最後加州出產太多食物，運都運唔晒

so it became critical to market canned and frozen foods.

所以推廣罐頭和急凍食品在所必行

Thus arrived convenience.

於是用方便嚟做賣點

It was sold to proto-feminist housewives

呢啲食物以原女性主義嘅主婦作對象

as a way to cut down on housework.

等佢哋做少啲家務

Now, I know everybody over the age of, like 45 --

我知道過咗大約四十五歲嘅觀眾

their mouths are watering at this point.

見到實流晒口水

(Laughter)

(笑)

(Applause)

(掌聲)

If we had a slide of Salisbury steak, even more so, right?

如果有幅漢堡扒嘅圖片，你哋流多啲口水添，係咪？

(Laughter)

(笑)

But this may have cut down on housework,

雖然咁樣會做少咗家務

but it cut down on the variety of food we ate as well.

但亦會減少左我哋食嘅食物嘅種類

Many of us grew up never eating a fresh vegetable

我地好多人成長嗰陣除咗有時食下生紅蘿蔔

except the occasional raw carrot or maybe an odd lettuce salad.

或者生菜沙律之外，好少會食新鮮蔬果

I, for one -- and I'm not kidding --

以我為例，唔係講笑

didn't eat real spinach or broccoli till I was 19.

到十九歲至食到真嘅菠菜同西蘭花

Who needed it though? Meat was everywhere.

邊個需要食呢啲嘢呢？周圍都有肉食

What could be easier, more filling or healthier for your family

有啲乜野比煎塊扒畀屋企人食更加

than broiling a steak?

容易，飽肚、或健康？

But by then cattle were already raised unnaturally.

嗰陣啲牛已經唔係用天然方法飼養

Rather than spending their lives eating grass,

牛嘅胃系設計嚟食草既

for which their stomachs were designed,

但啲人硬系要迫佢食大豆同粟米

they were forced to eat soy and corn.

都唔由得佢食草

They have trouble digesting those grains, of course,

啲牛當然消化唔到啲穀物

but that wasn't a problem for producers.

但呢啲唔係生產者嘅間題

New drugs kept them healthy.

新嘅葯物會維持佢哋健康

Well, they kept them alive.

應該話會令佢哋繼續生存

Healthy was another story.

健唔健康係另一回事

Thanks to farm subsidies,

多得農業補貼

the fine collaboration between agribusiness and Congress,

呢啲農業企業同國會嘅微妙合作方式

soy, corn and cattle became king.

大豆、粟米、牛隻大行其道

And chicken soon joined them on the throne.

之後雞都加埋入去添

It was during this period that the cycle of

呢個時期就係

dietary and planetary destruction began,

飲食同地球毀滅嘅循環開端

the thing we're only realizing just now.

呢樣嘢到依家我哋至意識到

Listen to this,

聽清楚

between 1950 and 2000, the world's population doubled.

一九五零年至二千年之間，全球人口增加一倍

Meat consumption increased five-fold.

但系肉食攝取就增加五倍

Now, someone had to eat all that stuff, so we got fast food.

咁實有啲人食咗多出黎既肉，所以我哋有左快餐

And this took care of the situation resoundingly.

咁就徹底解釋咗呢個問題

Home cooking remained the norm, but its quality was down the tubes.

響屋企煮嘢食都仲係普遍，但質素已經每況愈下

There were fewer meals with home-cooked breads, desserts and soups,

越來越少有屋企整嘅麵包、甜品同湯

because all of them could be bought at any store.

因為全部呢啲嘢都可以響舖頭買到

Not that they were any good, but they were there.

唔係話買返嚟質素好啲，只不過係買就有得吃

Most moms cooked like mine:

大部份媽咪好似我阿媽咁煮飯

a piece of broiled meat, a quickly made salad with bottled dressing,

一塊烤肉，用樽裝沙律醬撈成嘅沙律

canned soup, canned fruit salad.

罐頭湯，罐頭生果沙律

Maybe baked or mashed potatoes,

可能有焗薯同薯蓉

or perhaps the stupidest food ever, Minute Rice.

又或者食史上最唔駛用腦嘅食物：即食飯

For dessert, store-bought ice cream or cookies.

甜品就係響出面買嘅雪糕或者曲奇餅

My mom is not here, so I can say this now.

我阿媽唔在場，我可以講你知

This kind of cooking drove me to learn how to cook for myself.

因為呢啲咁嘅廚藝驅使我去學煮嘢食畀自己

(Laughter)

(笑)

It wasn't all bad.

都唔一定係壞事嚟嘅

By the '70s, forward-thinking people

七十年代，思想先進嘅人

began to recognize the value of local ingredients.

開始意識到本地食材嘅價值

We tended gardens, we became interested in organic food,

於是自己整個花園，對有機食品有興趣

we knew or we were vegetarians.

我哋認識或者成為素食人士

We weren't all hippies, either.

我哋唔係做咗嬉皮士

Some of us were eating in good restaurants and learning how to cook well.

有啲人仲仍然去幫襯好餐廳，學下點煮好餸

Meanwhile, food production had become industrial. Industrial.

同時食物嘅生產過程變得工業化，叫工業化

Perhaps because it was being produced rationally,

可能因為畀人認為可以好似

as if it were plastic,

塑膠咁系生產線到啤出嚟

food gained magical or poisonous powers, or both.

食物獲得神奇或者有害嘅力量，甚至兩者都有

Many people became fat-phobic.

好多人對肥胖有恐懼

Others worshiped broccoli, as if it were God-like.

另一啲人當西蘭花係神咁拜

But mostly they didn't eat broccoli.

但好多時佢哋都唔食西蘭花

Instead they were sold on yogurt,

取而代之，西蘭花就連埋乳酪咁一齊賣

yogurt being almost as good as broccoli.

乳酪好似同西蘭花咁好

Except, in reality, the way the industry sold yogurt

而事實上，業界銷售乳酪嗰陣

was to convert it to something much more akin to ice cream.

係將孔酪變到好似雪糕咁

Similarly, let's look at a granola bar.

同樣，睇下啲穀類果仁棒球場

You think that that might be healthy food,

以為呢啲嘢食會健康啲

but in fact, if you look at the ingredient list,

但你睇返原料表

it's closer in form to a Snickers than it is to oatmeal.

原來佢似朱古力棒多過以燕麥

Sadly, it was at this time that the family dinner was put in a coma,

好可惜，呢個時候家庭式晚餐就算唔係一命嗚呼

if not actually killed --

都已經進入昏迷狀態

the beginning of the heyday of value-added food,

嗰啲可以塞幾多就塞幾多大豆同粟米製品

which contained as many soy and corn products

嘅增值食品

as could be crammed into it.

開始繁盛起嚟

Think of the frozen chicken nugget.

睇下啲急凍雞塊

The chicken is fed corn, and then its meat is ground up,

啲雞係用粟米餵大，啲肉同粟米製品

and mixed with more corn products to add bulk and binder,

攪埋一齊，等佢大舊啲同黏得埋一齊

and then it's fried in corn oil.

然後放入粟米油度炸

All you do is nuke it. What could be better?

你只需要放入微波爐叮，有乜好過咁？

And zapped horribly, pathetically.

然後狼吞虎嚥咁食落肚

By the '70s, home cooking was in such a sad state

到七十年代，響屋企煮嘢食呢樣嘢己經到咗慘不忍睹嘅地步

that the high fat and spice contents of foods

一啲好似麥樂雞同叮叮食物

like McNuggets and Hot Pockets --

咁嘅高脂多調味料嘅食品

and we all have our favorites, actually --

仲有其他我哋鍾意食嘅嘢

made this stuff more appealing than the bland things

相比之下，起自家煮嘅

that people were serving at home.

淡而無味嘅嘢食，呢類食物吸引人得多

At the same time, masses of women were entering the workforce,

同時，大量女性投入勞動市場

and cooking simply wasn't important enough

男人唔覺得煮嘢食重要到

for men to share the burden.

要渠去做呢樣野

So now, you've got your pizza nights, you've got your microwave nights,

於是我哋依家薄餅就當一餐，微波爐叮嘢食當一餐

you've got your grazing nights,

放任咁想吃就吃又系一餐，

you've got your fend-for-yourself nights and so on.

自己照顧自己都系一餐，諸如此類

Leading the way -- what's leading the way?

乜嘢食物獨當一面？

Meat, junk food, cheese:

肉類，垃圾食物，芝士

the very stuff that will kill you.

呢啲嘢食都會拿你命

So, now we clamor for organic food.

依家我哋大大聲要有機食品

That's good.

係好事嚟嘅

And as evidence that things can actually change,

證明啲事情其實會改變

you can now find organic food in supermarkets,

依家響超市

and even in fast-food outlets.

甚至響快餐店都搵到有機食物

But organic food isn't the answer either,

但有機食物都唔係答案

at least not the way it's currently defined.

至少唔係好似依家咁界定有機

Let me pose you a question.

我問下你哋

Can farm-raised salmon be organic,

啲三文魚食嘅係有機，但同天然飲食無關嘅飼料

when its feed has nothing to do with its natural diet,

又畀人養響窄窄嘅圍入面

even if the feed itself is supposedly organic, and the fish themselves

響自己啲污糟嘢入面游水

are packed tightly in pens, swimming in their own filth?

呢啲養殖三文魚可以叫有機嗎？

And if that salmon's from Chile, and it's killed down there

又如果啲三文魚來自智利，響嗰度劏

and then flown 5,000 miles, whatever,

然後運去五千哩外，釋放唔知幾多碳入大氣層

dumping how much carbon into the atmosphere?

呢啲又點算有機？

I don't know.

我唔知道

Packed in Styrofoam, of course,

當然呢啲魚運到美國前

before landing somewhere in the United States,

用發泡膠包住

and then being trucked a few hundred more miles.

然後再用貨車運去幾百哩外

This may be organic in letter, but it's surely not organic in spirit.

字面係有機，但精神上當然唔係有機

Now here is where we all meet.

呢個就係各類人意見嘅交點

The locavores, the organivores, the vegetarians,

土食主義者，有機主義者，素食者

the vegans, the gourmets

純素食者，美食家

and those of us who are just plain interested in good food.

仲有一啲純粹對好嘢食有興趣嘅人

Even though we've come to this from different points,

雖然我哋出發點唔同

we all have to act on our knowledge

我哋全部要用自己知識

to change the way that everyone thinks about food.

去改變他人對食物嘅諗法

We need to start acting.

我哋要開始行動

And this is not only an issue of social justice, as Ann Cooper said --

而且好以安古柏咁講，呢個唔單止關乎社會公義

and, of course, she's completely right --

而且佢講得啱

but it's also one of global survival.

呢個亦關乎全球嘅存亡

Which bring me full circle and points directly to the core issue,

呢點帶到我去核心問題度

the overproduction and overconsumption of meat and junk food.

就係過度生產食物，過度攝取肉類同垃圾食物

As I said, 18 percent of greenhouse gases

我講過，百分之十八嘅溫室氣體

are attributed to livestock production.

來自家畜

How much livestock do you need to produce this?

我哋要幾多家畜至製造到咁多氣體？

70 percent of the agricultural land on Earth,

要用全球農業用地嘅七成

30 percent of the Earth's land surface is directly or indirectly devoted

而地球三成陸地直接或間接咁

to raising the animals we'll eat.

用咗黎養我哋食嘅生畜

And this amount is predicted to double in the next 40 years or so.

預計四十年後仲要用多一倍地

And if the numbers coming in from China

如果個數目係來自中國

are anything like what they look like now,

而中國好似依家咁

it's not going to be 40 years.

唔駛四十年添

There is no good reason for eating as much meat as we do.

我想講，好似我咁成世人食唔少穀飼牛肉

And I say this as a man who has eaten a fair share of corned beef in his life.

其實無乜原因要好似我地咁食咁多肉

The most common argument is that we need nutrients --

常見嘅論點係我哋需要營養

even though we eat, on average, twice as much protein

但其實我哋平均食落肚嘅蛋白質

as even the industry-obsessed USDA recommends.

甚至係偏幫企業嘅農業部所建議嘅兩倍

But listen: experts who are serious about disease reduction

留心聽住，研究減少疾病嘅專家

recommend that adults eat just over half a pound of meat per week.

建議成人每個禮拜只係食半磅肉

What do you think we eat per day? Half a pound.

你估我哋一日食幾多肉？半磅

But don't we need meat to be big and strong?

但我哋唔駛食肉就可以大隻啲，強壯啲咩？

Isn't meat eating essential to health?

乜食肉唔係健康必需嘅咩？

Won't a diet heavy in fruit and vegetables

乜食得生果蔬菜多

turn us into godless, sissy, liberals?

唔會搞到我地變得邪惡、女人型、變成自由黨人咩？

(Laughter)

(笑)

Some of us might think that would be a good thing.

有啲人可能覺得食肉係好事

But, no, even if we were all steroid-filled football players,

但就算我哋全部都係食咗類固醇嘅足球員

the answer is no.

答案仍然係錯

In fact, there's no diet on Earth that meets

其實，世界上無一種飲食方式

basic nutritional needs that won't promote growth,

滿足到基本營養需要而唔促進健康

and many will make you much healthier than ours does.

好多飲食方式比我哋依家嘅都更能令人健康

We don't eat animal products for sufficient nutrition,

我哋食肉唔係為咗充足嘅營養

we eat them to have an odd form of malnutrition, and it's killing us.

反而令我哋有另類嘅營養不足，係致命嘅

To suggest that in the interests of personal and human health

想為個人、人類嘅健康著想

Americans eat 50 percent less meat --

建議美國人食少一半肉

it's not enough of a cut, but it's a start.

減少呢個份量不足以起作用，但起碼係個開始

It would seem absurd, but that's exactly what should happen,

聽起上嚟好古怪，但除咗叫人食相對多返嘅蔬菜

and what progressive people, forward-thinking people

但呢啲至係應該發生嘅

should be doing and advocating,

係思想先進嘅人，改革派嘅人

along with the corresponding increase in the consumption of plants.

應該做，應該提倡嘅

I've been writing about food more or less omnivorously --

我用雜食人士角度，或者有人話係不加批判咁

one might say indiscriminately -- for about 30 years.

寫咗有關食物嘅文章差唔多卅年

During that time, I've eaten

響嗰段時間，我食咗

and recommended eating just about everything.

又推薦咗差唔多所有嘢食

I'll never stop eating animals, I'm sure,

我知道我唔會唔食肉

but I do think that for the benefit of everyone,

但我認為，為咗所有人嘅福祉

the time has come to stop raising them industrially

係時候唔好再用工業化方式飼養動物

and stop eating them thoughtlessly.

唔好再無諗過就食肉

Ann Cooper's right.

安古柏講得啱

The USDA is not our ally here.

農業部唔係我地盟友

We have to take matters into our own hands,

我哋要落手落腳去做

not only by advocating for a better diet for everyone --

唔單止為其他人支持好啲嘅飲食方式

and that's the hard part -- but by improving our own.

困難嘅係要改善自己嘅飲食

And that happens to be quite easy.

要做到呢樣嘢其實好易

Less meat, less junk, more plants.

食少啲肉、少啲垃圾食物，多啲食菜

It's a simple formula: eat food.

好簡單嘅竅門，就係進食

Eat real food.

食真正嘅食物

We can continue to enjoy our food, and we continue to eat well,

我哋可以繼續享受食物，繼續食得好

and we can eat even better.

而且可以食得更有益

We can continue the search for the ingredients we love,

仲可以繼續尋找鍾意嘅食材

and we can continue to spin yarns about our favorite meals.

繼續係我哋喜愛嘅餐點編寫故事

We'll reduce not only calories, but our carbon footprint.

我哋唔單止要減少進食卡路里，仲要減少碳足印

We can make food more important, not less,

我哋可以令食物更重要，而唔係令食物唔再受人重視

and save ourselves by doing so.

而且咁做可以教到我哋

We have to choose that path.

我哋要揀呢條路去行啦

Thank you.

多謝