What's wrong with what we eat | Mark Bittman

翻译人员: L Y 校对人员: Jenny Yang

I write about food. I write about cooking.

我的工作是写关于食物和烹饪的文章。

I take it quite seriously,

我是很严肃地对待这些事情。

but I'm here to talk about something

但是现在我要谈论

that's become very important to me in the last year or two.

一些在近一两年里对我们愈发重要的事情。

It is about food, but it's not about cooking, per se.

这就是饮食的问题，但本质上并不和烹饪相关。

I'm going to start with this picture of a beautiful cow.

下面我先展示一幅美丽的母牛的照片。

I'm not a vegetarian -- this is the old Nixon line, right?

我并不是一名素食主义者 -- 这听上去象以前尼克松的用语，不是吗？

But I still think that this --

但我仍然认为这 --

(Laughter)

（笑声）

-- may be this year's version of this.

-- 可能是现在的情况。

Now, that is only a little bit hyperbolic.

只不过现在有一点夸张罢了。

And why do I say it?

为什么我要说这些呢？

Because only once before has the fate of individual people

因为以前只发生过一次，每个人的命运

and the fate of all of humanity

和整个人类的命运

been so intertwined.

如此紧密得连结在一起。

There was the bomb, and there's now.

过去是原子弹，现在也同样发生了这种情况。

And where we go from here is going to determine

并且我们现在要决定的

not only the quality and the length of our individual lives,

不仅是我们每个人的生活质量和寿命，

but whether, if we could see the Earth a century from now,

而且是如果在一个世纪之后评价现在的世界，

we'd recognize it.

我们是否会认同它。

It's a holocaust of a different kind,

这是一次不同类型的浩劫，

and hiding under our desks isn't going to help.

并且逃避并不能解决任何问题。

Start with the notion that global warming

现在全球变暖的现象

is not only real, but dangerous.

不仅是真实的，而且非常危险。

Since every scientist in the world now believes this,

因为现在世界上的每一个科学家都对此表示认同，

and even President Bush has seen the light, or pretends to,

并且甚至布什总统都表示认同，当然也可能是假装的，

we can take this is a given.

我们必须要面对它。

Then hear this, please.

现在请听我说。

After energy production, livestock is the second-highest contributor

畜牧业是仅次于能源生产的第二大制造者

to atmosphere-altering gases.

产生改变气候的气体。

Nearly one-fifth of all greenhouse gas

将近全部温室气体的五分之一

is generated by livestock production --

是由畜牧业产生的 --

more than transportation.

比运输业还要多。

Now, you can make all the jokes you want about cow farts,

现在你可以尽情地开有关牛屁的玩笑，

but methane is 20 times more poisonous than CO2,

但是甲烷的有害程度是二氧化碳的20倍，

and it's not just methane.

而且这其中不仅仅包含甲烷。

Livestock is also one of the biggest culprits in land degradation,

畜牧业又是造成土地退化的最大元凶

air and water pollution, water shortages and loss of biodiversity.

空气和水污染，水资源短缺和生物多样性遭到破坏。

There's more.

诸如此类还有许多。

Like half the antibiotics in this country

这就好像国家里一半的抗生素

are not administered to people, but to animals.

不是用在人类，而是用在动物身上的。

But lists like this become kind of numbing, so let me just say this:

但是我罗列的这些听上去只是一串数字，所以让我换一种方式表述，

if you're a progressive,

如果你比较激进，

if you're driving a Prius, or you're shopping green,

如果你驾驶一辆普锐斯，或者你购买绿色食品，

or you're looking for organic,

或者购买有机食品，

you should probably be a semi-vegetarian.

你很可能是一个半素食主义者。

Now, I'm no more anti-cattle than I am anti-atom,

现在我对母牛的反对比对原子弹的反对更甚，

but it's all in the way we use these things.

但是这正是我们现在的生活方式。

There's another piece of the puzzle,

这里还有另外一个问题

which Ann Cooper talked about beautifully yesterday,

安·库珀在昨天曾经很完美得探讨过，

and one you already know.

并且你们已经知道了。

There's no question, none, that so-called lifestyle diseases --

这些都不是问题 -- 都不是 -- 所谓的生活方式的疾病 --

diabetes, heart disease, stroke, some cancers --

糖尿病，心脏病，中风，几种癌症 --

are diseases that are far more prevalent here

这些疾病在这里是过分普遍了

than anywhere in the rest of the world.

相比世界的其他地方。

And that's the direct result of eating a Western diet.

这就是西方饮食的直接结果。

Our demand for meat, dairy and refined carbohydrates --

我们对于肉类，乳类和纯净的碳水化合物的需求 --

the world consumes one billion cans or bottles of Coke a day --

世界平均每天消耗十亿听或瓶的可乐 --

our demand for these things, not our need, our want,

我们对于这些东西的需求并不是必须的，而是我们想要的 --

drives us to consume way more calories than are good for us.

使我们消耗了比最佳摄入量更多的卡路里。

And those calories are in foods that cause, not prevent, disease.

这些在食品中的卡路里导致，而不是预防疾病。

Now global warming was unforeseen.

现在世界变暖还是不可预期的。

We didn't know that pollution did more than cause bad visibility.

我们尚不确定污染除了降低能见度外还有其他什么危害。

Maybe a few lung diseases here and there,

可能会在这里或那里造成更多的肺癌，

but, you know, that's not such a big deal.

但是你知道，这并不是一件很严重的事情。

The current health crisis, however,

可是，现在的健康问题，

is a little more the work of the evil empire.

比一个邪恶帝国的危害还要严重。

We were told, we were assured,

我们被告知，并且我们确信，

that the more meat and dairy and poultry we ate,

随着我们摄入更多的肉类，乳类和家禽类食品，

the healthier we'd be.

我们会变得更健康。

No. Overconsumption of animals, and of course, junk food,

这是错的。对动物的过度食用，当然还有垃圾食品，

is the problem, along with our paltry consumption of plants.

是问题所在，还有对植物类食品的摄入不足。

Now, there's no time to get into the benefits of eating plants here,

现在不是讨论使用植物是否有益的时候了，

but the evidence is that plants -- and I want to make this clear --

有证据表明植物 -- 我想要强调一下 --

it's not the ingredients in plants, it's the plants.

而不是植物中的成分，是植物本身。

It's not the beta-carotene, it's the carrot.

不是β胡萝卜素，而是胡萝卜本身。

The evidence is very clear that plants promote health.

有充分证据表明植物可以改善健康状况。

This evidence is overwhelming at this point.

现在这种证据更加充分。

You eat more plants, you eat less other stuff, you live longer.

你吃了更多的植物，更少的其他食物，你就会更加长寿。

Not bad.

这算是个还不错的消息。

But back to animals and junk food.

但是问题又回到了动物和垃圾食品。

What do they have in common?

它们有什么共同的特点呢？

One: we don't need either of them for health.

第一：我们为了健康并不需要它们中的任何一个。

We don't need animal products,

我们并不需要动物制品，

and we certainly don't need white bread or Coke.

而且我们完全不需要白面包或可乐。

Two: both have been marketed heavily,

第二：这两种东西都在被广泛地推销，

creating unnatural demand.

导致了不正常的需求。

We're not born craving Whoppers or Skittles.

我们并不是在耸人听闻。

Three: their production has been supported by government agencies

第三：它们的制造得到政府部门的支持，

at the expense of a more health- and Earth-friendly diet.

但是以少食用更健康和环保的食品为代价。

Now, let's imagine a parallel.

现在打个比方。

Let's pretend that our government supported an oil-based economy,

如果我们的政府支持一个石油公司

while discouraging more sustainable forms of energy,

同时反对更加可持续发展的能源，

knowing all the while that the result would be

并且知道这将导致

pollution, war and rising costs.

污染，战争和更高的成本。

Incredible, isn't it?

很不可思议，不是吗？

Yet they do that.

但是现在他们正在这样做。

And they do this here. It's the same deal.

他们对食品也是如此。这是同样的事情。

The sad thing is, when it comes to diet,

坏消息是，对于饮食问题，

is that even when well-intentioned Feds

就算是联邦政府用心

try to do right by us, they fail.

去规范我们的行为，也是徒劳的。

Either they're outvoted by puppets of agribusiness,

他们或者会被从事农产品业的傀儡们投否决票，

or they are puppets of agribusiness.

或者他们本身就从事于农产品业的傀儡。

So, when the USDA finally acknowledged

所以当美国农业部最终承认

that it was plants, rather than animals, that made people healthy,

是植物，而不是动物，使得人们更加健康，

they encouraged us, via their overly simplistic food pyramid,

他们建议我们，通过参照他们构建的过于简陋的食品金字塔，

to eat five servings of fruits and vegetables a day,

一天吃五份的水果和蔬菜，

along with more carbs.

和更多的碳水化合物。

What they didn't tell us is that some carbs are better than others,

但是他们没有告诉我们有些碳水化合物比其他的更好，

and that plants and whole grains

并且这些植物和全谷类食物

should be supplanting eating junk food.

应当替代垃圾食品。

But industry lobbyists would never let that happen.

但是工业界的说客不会让这一切发生。

And guess what?

猜猜为什么？

Half the people who developed the food pyramid

制定食品金字塔中一半的人

have ties to agribusiness.

与农产品业有关联。

So, instead of substituting plants for animals,

所以并没有用植物替代动物，

our swollen appetites simply became larger,

我们已经膨胀的胃口变得更大了，

and the most dangerous aspects of them remained unchanged.

并且其中最危险的部分仍未改变。

So-called low-fat diets, so-called low-carb diets --

所谓的低脂肪和低碳水化合物食品 --

these are not solutions.

这些并不是解决方案。

But with lots of intelligent people

但是许多有智慧的人

focusing on whether food is organic or local,

研究某种食物是否有机或本地生产，

or whether we're being nice to animals,

或者我们是否要友善地对待动物，

the most important issues just aren't being addressed.

最重要的问题却并没有被涉及。

Now, don't get me wrong.

现在，不要误会我。

I like animals,

我喜爱动物，

and I don't think it's just fine to industrialize their production

并且我并不认为应当将动物制品产业化

and to churn them out like they were wrenches.

干扰动物的生活。

But there's no way to treat animals well,

但是现在根本无法善待动物

when you're killing 10 billion of them a year.

当一年要屠杀100亿头动物的时候。

That's our number. 10 billion.

这是我们的数字。100亿。

If you strung all of them --

如果你将它们连接起来 --

chickens, cows, pigs and lambs -- to the moon,

鸡，牛，猪和羊 -- 到月球，

they'd go there and back five times, there and back.

长度可以来回5次 -- 过去然后回来。

Now, my math's a little shaky, but this is pretty good,

现在，尽管我的数学不是很好，但这个数字大致是没问题的，

and it depends whether a pig is four feet long or five feet long,

尽管基于一头猪的长度是4英尺还是5英尺，

but you get the idea.

但是你可以有一个大致的概念。

That's just the United States.

这仅仅是对于美国的情况而言。

And with our hyper-consumption of those animals

并且随着我们对于这些动物的过度消耗

producing greenhouse gases and heart disease,

产生温室气体和心脏疾病，

kindness might just be a bit of a red herring.

仁慈可能仅仅是一种逃避的方式。

Let's get the numbers of the animals we're killing for eating down,

让我们降低被屠杀的动物的数量，

and then we'll worry about being nice to the ones that are left.

然后我们再去想如何善待幸存的动物。

Another red herring might be exemplified by the word "locavore,"

另外一个误区的典型代表是“土食主义”，

which was just named word of the year by the New Oxford American Dictionary.

刚被新牛津美国词典提名为年度单词。

Seriously.

很严肃的话题。

And locavore, for those of you who don't know,

土食主义者，对于你们之中不了解的人来说，

is someone who eats only locally grown food --

是一些只吃当地生产的食品的人。

which is fine if you live in California,

当你居住在加利福尼亚州时这很好，

but for the rest of us it's a bit of a sad joke.

但是对于其他地区的人来说这是一个悲哀的玩笑。

Between the official story -- the food pyramid --

在官方的故事 -- 饮食金字塔 --

and the hip locavore vision,

和前卫的土食主义文化，

you have two versions of how to improve our eating.

你有两个可以改善饮食的选择。

(Laughter).

（笑声）

They both get it wrong, though.

但是这两种方式都错了。

The first at least is populist, and the second is elitist.

第一种方式至少是大众性的，第二种则是只针对小部分团体。

How we got to this place is the history of food in the United States.

我们如何走到今天这一步正是美国饮食的发展史。

And I'm going to go through that,

然后我将对其进行阐述，

at least the last hundred years or so, very quickly right now.

至少在离现在很近的大概一百年前的时间。

A hundred years ago, guess what?

猜猜一百年前怎么样？

Everyone was a locavore: even New York had pig farms nearby,

每个人都是土食者，即使是纽约旁边也有大型的农场

and shipping food all over the place was a ridiculous notion.

同时往其他地方运输食品是一个很异想天开的想法。

Every family had a cook, usually a mom.

每一个家庭都有一个厨师，通常是母亲。

And those moms bought and prepared food.

这些母亲购买并准备食物。

It was like your romantic vision of Europe.

这就像你所想象的欧洲浪漫的场景。

Margarine didn't exist.

人造黄油并不存在。

In fact, when margarine was invented,

事实上，当发明人造黄油时，

several states passed laws declaring that it had to be dyed pink,

几个州通过法律命令人造黄油要染成粉红色

so we'd all know that it was a fake.

我们都知道它是假的

There was no snack food, and until the '20s,

那时并没有快餐，并且直到二十年代，

until Clarence Birdseye came along, there was no frozen food.

直到克拉伦斯·博兹艾的出现，冷冻食物才发明。

There were no restaurant chains.

那时没有连锁的餐厅。

There were neighborhood restaurants run by local people,

当时只有当地人在家附近经营的餐厅，

but none of them would think to open another one.

但是没人想过再开另一家餐厅。

Eating ethnic was unheard of unless you were ethnic.

饮食文化更是前所未闻。

And fancy food was entirely French.

同时花式食物全部是源自法国。

As an aside, those of you who remember

另外，你记起的那个

Dan Aykroyd in the 1970s doing Julia Child imitations

丹·艾克罗伊德在二十世纪七十年代模仿朱莉娅·蔡尔德

can see where he got the idea of stabbing himself from this fabulous slide.

可以看出他就是这个样子。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

Back in those days, before even Julia,

在那些时候，即便是朱莉娅的时代之前，

back in those days, there was no philosophy of food.

当时不存在对于食物的学问。

You just ate.

你只是在吃。

You didn't claim to be anything.

你不用宣称什么其他的东西。

There was no marketing. There were no national brands.

当时没有市场。没有全国性的品牌。

Vitamins had not been invented.

维生素还没有发明。

There were no health claims, at least not federally sanctioned ones.

那时没有关于健康的宣言，至少不是像联邦上禁止那样。

Fats, carbs, proteins -- they weren't bad or good, they were food.

脂肪，碳水化合物，蛋白质 -- 它们既不是好的也不是坏的，它们只是食物。

You ate food.

你只是在吃食物。

Hardly anything contained more than one ingredient,

基本没有一种东西包含多于一种成分，

because it was an ingredient.

仅仅因为其本身只是一种成分。

The cornflake hadn't been invented.

玉米片也没有发明。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

The Pop-Tart, the Pringle, Cheez Whiz, none of that stuff.

也没有蛋挞，普林格尔，当维兹之类的东西。

Goldfish swam.

金鱼还在游动。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

It's hard to imagine. People grew food, and they ate food.

这不难想象。人们种植食物并吃种的食物。

And again, everyone ate local.

并且每个人都吃当地产的食物。

In New York, an orange was a common Christmas present,

在纽约，桔子是一种很普遍的圣诞礼物，

because it came all the way from Florida.

因为桔子要从遥远的佛罗里达州运过来。

From the '30s on, road systems expanded,

从三十年代开始，公路系统飞速发展，

trucks took the place of railroads,

货车代替了铁路，

fresh food began to travel more.

更多的新鲜食物被运输。

Oranges became common in New York.

在纽约桔子也变得很常见了。

The South and West became agricultural hubs,

南方和西方成为农业的中心，

and in other parts of the country, suburbs took over farmland.

在美国的其他地方城镇代替了耕地。

The effects of this are well known. They are everywhere.

这种做法的影响已经是众所周知的了，并且到处都不例外。

And the death of family farms is part of this puzzle,

家庭农场的消亡是这个问题的一部分,

as is almost everything

但也几乎是全部

from the demise of the real community

自从真实的地域生活方式的消亡

to the challenge of finding a good tomato, even in summer.

即使在夏天也很难找到一个很好的西红柿。

Eventually, California produced too much food to ship fresh,

最终加利福尼亚州生产了太多的食物以至于不能新鲜地运输出去，

so it became critical to market canned and frozen foods.

所以灌装和冷冻食品就很有推广的必要了。

Thus arrived convenience.

这带来了方便。

It was sold to proto-feminist housewives

典型的女权主义的家庭主妇们接受它

as a way to cut down on housework.

她们认为这是减轻家庭劳务的一个途径

Now, I know everybody over the age of, like 45 --

现在，我知道每个45岁以的人

their mouths are watering at this point.

嘴里开始在流口水了

(Laughter)

（笑声）

(Applause)

（掌声）

If we had a slide of Salisbury steak, even more so, right?

我们会吃一块索尔斯伯利牛肉饼，甚至更多，难道不是吗？

(Laughter)

（笑声）

But this may have cut down on housework,

这可能会减少家庭劳务的工作量，

but it cut down on the variety of food we ate as well.

但是也减少了我们吃的食物的多样性。

Many of us grew up never eating a fresh vegetable

我们之中的许多人都从未食用过新鲜的蔬菜

except the occasional raw carrot or maybe an odd lettuce salad.

除了偶尔吃些生萝卜或者是比较少见的生菜沙拉。

I, for one -- and I'm not kidding --

我就是这样 -- 我没有开玩笑 --

didn't eat real spinach or broccoli till I was 19.

直到19岁时才吃到真正的菠菜和椰菜。

Who needed it though? Meat was everywhere.

谁还需要这些呢？到处都有肉类的存在。

What could be easier, more filling or healthier for your family

难道还有更简单，更能填饱肚子，更有益于家庭健康的方式

than broiling a steak?

除了烤牛排？

But by then cattle were already raised unnaturally.

但是那时牛已经被非自然的方式饲养了。

Rather than spending their lives eating grass,

不是吃草，

for which their stomachs were designed,

就像它们的胃所设计的那样，

they were forced to eat soy and corn.

而是被强迫食用大豆和谷物。

They have trouble digesting those grains, of course,

他们当然很难消化这些东西，

but that wasn't a problem for producers.

但是这对于生产者们来讲不是问题。

New drugs kept them healthy.

新型药物维持动物的健康。

Well, they kept them alive.

呃，是使动物们生存下去。

Healthy was another story.

健康是另一回事。

Thanks to farm subsidies,

由于农场的津贴，

the fine collaboration between agribusiness and Congress,

农产品业与国会的合作，

soy, corn and cattle became king.

大豆，谷物和牛占据了主导地位。

And chicken soon joined them on the throne.

同时鸡也迅速地加入了其中。

It was during this period that the cycle of

就是在这段时间里

dietary and planetary destruction began,

饮食循环的形成和地球的破坏开始了，

the thing we're only realizing just now.

但直到现在人们才认识到这一点。

Listen to this,

听着，

between 1950 and 2000, the world's population doubled.

在1950年到2000年之间，世界人口数量多了一倍。

Meat consumption increased five-fold.

肉类的消耗达到了5倍。

Now, someone had to eat all that stuff, so we got fast food.

现在，有些人只吃这类食物，于是产生了快餐。

And this took care of the situation resoundingly.

这就造成了这种很严重的局面。

Home cooking remained the norm, but its quality was down the tubes.

家庭烹饪还是常态，但是质量却与往日不可同日而语。

There were fewer meals with home-cooked breads, desserts and soups,

很少有人自制面包，甜点和汤，

because all of them could be bought at any store.

因为在哪里它们都可以买得到。

Not that they were any good, but they were there.

并不是因为它们有益处，而是因为它们可以买得到。

Most moms cooked like mine:

许多母亲像我一样做饭 --

a piece of broiled meat, a quickly made salad with bottled dressing,

一块烤肉，一个简易的瓶装沙拉，

canned soup, canned fruit salad.

罐装汤，罐装水果沙拉。

Maybe baked or mashed potatoes,

可能还有烤土豆或者土豆泥

or perhaps the stupidest food ever, Minute Rice.

或者可能是最愚蠢的食物 -- 一分钟米饭。

For dessert, store-bought ice cream or cookies.

甜点则是商店里买回来的冰激凌或小点心。

My mom is not here, so I can say this now.

我妈妈不在这里，所以现在我可以说这些话。

This kind of cooking drove me to learn how to cook for myself.

这样的做饭迫使我去学会如何自己做饭。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

It wasn't all bad.

这也并非一无是处。

By the '70s, forward-thinking people

在七十年代，前卫的人们

began to recognize the value of local ingredients.

开始认识到当地产的原料的价值。

We tended gardens, we became interested in organic food,

我们管理庄园，同时对有机食物更感兴趣，

we knew or we were vegetarians.

我们知道或者我们就是素食主义者。

We weren't all hippies, either.

但我们也不是嬉皮士。

Some of us were eating in good restaurants and learning how to cook well.

我们当中的有些人在好的餐厅里吃并且学会怎样做一手好的烹饪。

Meanwhile, food production had become industrial. Industrial.

同时，食品制造变得工业化。工业化。

Perhaps because it was being produced rationally,

可能因为食品制造过于理性，

as if it were plastic,

就像是塑料一样，

food gained magical or poisonous powers, or both.

食品开始变得奇幻或有毒，或者两者都有。

Many people became fat-phobic.

许多人厌恶脂肪。

Others worshiped broccoli, as if it were God-like.

其他人像对待上帝一样崇拜着花椰菜。

But mostly they didn't eat broccoli.

但是多数情况下他们并不食用花椰菜。

Instead they were sold on yogurt,

而是喝酸奶，

yogurt being almost as good as broccoli.

酸奶变得几乎和花椰菜一样有益。

Except, in reality, the way the industry sold yogurt

除了在现实中，工厂销售酸奶

was to convert it to something much more akin to ice cream.

是将其转化成更像是冰激凌的一种东西。

Similarly, let's look at a granola bar.

同样的，让我们看一下燕麦杆。

You think that that might be healthy food,

你可能会认为它们是健康的食物，

but in fact, if you look at the ingredient list,

但事实上，如果你去看原料表，

it's closer in form to a Snickers than it is to oatmeal.

它更像是士力架而不是燕麦。

Sadly, it was at this time that the family dinner was put in a coma,

可怕的是，在这时家庭饮食陷入了混乱，

if not actually killed --

如果是没有被彻底破坏的话。

the beginning of the heyday of value-added food,

在含有添加剂食品最多的开始的时候，

which contained as many soy and corn products

这包括了许多大豆和谷类食品

as could be crammed into it.

含有添加剂。

Think of the frozen chicken nugget.

想一想冷冻的鸡肉块。

The chicken is fed corn, and then its meat is ground up,

鸡是用谷物饲养的，然后长出肉

and mixed with more corn products to add bulk and binder,

并吃更多的谷物继续成长，

and then it's fried in corn oil.

然后用谷物油去炸。

All you do is nuke it. What could be better?

你所做的只是烹饪它。还能更好吗？

And zapped horribly, pathetically.

并且屠杀很残忍，惨无人道。

By the '70s, home cooking was in such a sad state

在七十年代，家庭烹饪变成了这样一种糟糕的状态

that the high fat and spice contents of foods

高脂肪和香料的食物

like McNuggets and Hot Pockets --

如麦纳吉兹和浩特波奇兹 --

and we all have our favorites, actually --

实际上我们都有自己的最爱 --

made this stuff more appealing than the bland things

使得这类食品比没有添加剂的食品更有吸引力

that people were serving at home.

如家庭里的食物。

At the same time, masses of women were entering the workforce,

与此同时，更多的女人参加工作，

and cooking simply wasn't important enough

烹饪又不那么重要

for men to share the burden.

要让男人来承担。

So now, you've got your pizza nights, you've got your microwave nights,

所以现在我们在晚上吃比萨，用微波炉加热食品，

you've got your grazing nights,

去大吃大喝，

you've got your fend-for-yourself nights and so on.

自给自足，等等。

Leading the way -- what's leading the way?

变得主导 -- 什么是主导呢？

Meat, junk food, cheese:

肉类，垃圾食品，奶酪。

the very stuff that will kill you.

这些食品会减少你的寿命。

So, now we clamor for organic food.

所以我们现在倡导有机食品。

That's good.

这很好。

And as evidence that things can actually change,

有证据表明现在事情正在改变`，

you can now find organic food in supermarkets,

在超市中你可以见到有机食品，

and even in fast-food outlets.

甚至在快餐市场里。

But organic food isn't the answer either,

但是有机食品并不是解决办法，

at least not the way it's currently defined.

至少不像它现在被认为的那样。

Let me pose you a question.

让我提个问题。

Can farm-raised salmon be organic,

农场饲养的大马哈鱼能否是有机的

when its feed has nothing to do with its natural diet,

当饲料并不是自然的食品，

even if the feed itself is supposedly organic, and the fish themselves

即便饲料是有机的，那些鱼本身

are packed tightly in pens, swimming in their own filth?

在围栏里紧紧地围在一起，在它们的排泄物中游动？

And if that salmon's from Chile, and it's killed down there

如果大马哈鱼是来自智利，并且在智利被宰，

and then flown 5,000 miles, whatever,

然后运输5000英里，

dumping how much carbon into the atmosphere?

在大气中会增加多少碳？

I don't know.

我不清楚。

Packed in Styrofoam, of course,

当然用发泡胶包裹着，

before landing somewhere in the United States,

在美国的某个地方卸货之前

and then being trucked a few hundred more miles.

然后运往几百英里外的其他地方。

This may be organic in letter, but it's surely not organic in spirit.

从定义上来讲这可能是有机的，但从本质上并不是。

Now here is where we all meet.

现在这就是我们所面对的。

The locavores, the organivores, the vegetarians,

土食主义，有机食品主义，素食主义，

the vegans, the gourmets

绝对素食者，美食家

and those of us who are just plain interested in good food.

和我们当中对健康食品感兴趣的那些人。

Even though we've come to this from different points,

即便我们的出发点不尽相同，

we all have to act on our knowledge

我们都要利用我们的知识去行动

to change the way that everyone thinks about food.

改变每个人对于食品的认识。

We need to start acting.

我们需要开始行动了。

And this is not only an issue of social justice, as Ann Cooper said --

这就像安·库珀所说的，并不仅仅是一个有关社会正义感的问题 --

and, of course, she's completely right --

当然她是完全正确的 --

but it's also one of global survival.

而且也是有关整体存亡的问题。

Which bring me full circle and points directly to the core issue,

我们回到问题的关键，

the overproduction and overconsumption of meat and junk food.

对于肉类和垃圾食品的过度制造和过度消耗。

As I said, 18 percent of greenhouse gases

就像我说的，百分之十八的温室气体

are attributed to livestock production.

由畜牧业产生。

How much livestock do you need to produce this?

需要多少资源产生这些量呢？

70 percent of the agricultural land on Earth,

地球上百分之七十的可耕种土地。

30 percent of the Earth's land surface is directly or indirectly devoted

地表上百分之三十的面积都直接或间接地用在

to raising the animals we'll eat.

饲养我们所吃的动物上。

And this amount is predicted to double in the next 40 years or so.

在未来的40年左右的时间这个数字还将翻倍。

And if the numbers coming in from China

并且如果中国的数字

are anything like what they look like now,

还和现在一样的话，

it's not going to be 40 years.

根本用不了40年的时间。

There is no good reason for eating as much meat as we do.

我们并没有足够的理由去吃那么多肉类。

And I say this as a man who has eaten a fair share of corned beef in his life.

我想说的是一个在一生中吃适量的谷物产生的牛肉的男人。

The most common argument is that we need nutrients --

最多的借口是我们需要汲取营养 --

even though we eat, on average, twice as much protein

即便我们平均食用了两倍的

as even the industry-obsessed USDA recommends.

和工业紧密联系的美国农业部的建议摄入量。

But listen: experts who are serious about disease reduction

但是请听 -- 专注于减少疾病的专家们

recommend that adults eat just over half a pound of meat per week.

建议成人每周吃半磅多一点的肉类。

What do you think we eat per day? Half a pound.

我们现在每天吃多少？半磅。

But don't we need meat to be big and strong?

但是难道我们不需要肉类来变得强壮吗？

Isn't meat eating essential to health?

肉类对健康不是必需的吗？

Won't a diet heavy in fruit and vegetables

过多水果和蔬菜的饮食

turn us into godless, sissy, liberals?

会不会使我们变成无神论者，缺乏阳刚之气，自由论者？

(Laughter)

（笑声）

Some of us might think that would be a good thing.

我们当中的有些人可能认为这会是一件好事情。

But, no, even if we were all steroid-filled football players,

但不是这样，即使我们都是需要激烈运动的橄榄球运动员，

the answer is no.

答案也是否定的。

In fact, there's no diet on Earth that meets

实际上，地球上没有任何饮食能够满足

basic nutritional needs that won't promote growth,

基本的营养需求而不会有助于成长，

and many will make you much healthier than ours does.

同时许多会使我们变得比现在更健康。

We don't eat animal products for sufficient nutrition,

我们并不需要动物制品来获得足够的营养，

we eat them to have an odd form of malnutrition, and it's killing us.

我们过多食用它们只会变得营养不良，并且减少我们的寿命。

To suggest that in the interests of personal and human health

建议为了个人和整个人类的健康

Americans eat 50 percent less meat --

美国人少吃一半的肉类 --

it's not enough of a cut, but it's a start.

这尽管并不是足够的削减，但是一个崭新的开始。

It would seem absurd, but that's exactly what should happen,

尽管这看起来很荒唐，但这却真真切切是现在应该发生的事，

and what progressive people, forward-thinking people

和激进的，前卫的人们

should be doing and advocating,

应当做和倡导的事，

along with the corresponding increase in the consumption of plants.

和相应更多地食用植物。

I've been writing about food more or less omnivorously --

我一直是比较随意地写些关于食物的文章 --

one might say indiscriminately -- for about 30 years.

就是这个样子 -- 大概有30年了。

During that time, I've eaten

在这其间， 我吃

and recommended eating just about everything.

并且建议吃几乎所有的东西时。

I'll never stop eating animals, I'm sure,

我确信我以后并不会停止吃动物食品，

but I do think that for the benefit of everyone,

但是我想为了每个人的利益，

the time has come to stop raising them industrially

现在是时候停止将动物产业化饲养

and stop eating them thoughtlessly.

并且停止随意地食用它们。

Ann Cooper's right.

安·库珀是正确的。

The USDA is not our ally here.

在这方面美国农业部并不是我们的同盟。

We have to take matters into our own hands,

我们需要去自己把握，

not only by advocating for a better diet for everyone --

不仅仅是向每个人提倡一种更好的饮食 --

and that's the hard part -- but by improving our own.

这是很困难的 -- 并且改善我们自己的饮食。

And that happens to be quite easy.

这个可以很容易实现。

Less meat, less junk, more plants.

更少的肉类，垃圾食品，更多的植物。

It's a simple formula: eat food.

这是一个很简单的准则 -- 吃食物。

Eat real food.

吃真正的食物。

We can continue to enjoy our food, and we continue to eat well,

我们可以继续去享受我们的食物，我们可以继续吃得很好，

and we can eat even better.

甚至更好。

We can continue the search for the ingredients we love,

我们可以继续寻找我们喜爱的成分，

and we can continue to spin yarns about our favorite meals.

并且我们可以讲关于我们喜爱的食物的故事。

We'll reduce not only calories, but our carbon footprint.

我们减少的不仅是卡路里，而且是碳的痕迹。

We can make food more important, not less,

我们可以使食物变得更加重要，而不是贬值

and save ourselves by doing so.

并且通过这种行为拯救我们自己。

We have to choose that path.

我们必须要选择这条道路

Thank you.

谢谢。