What's wrong with what we eat | Mark Bittman

譯者: Jeannie Cheng 審譯者: Geoff Chen

I write about food. I write about cooking.

我寫有關食物、寫有關烹飪的文章

I take it quite seriously,

我很認真對待這份工作

but I'm here to talk about something

但我在這裡要向大家講及有關

that's become very important to me in the last year or two.

一些在最近一兩年前開始對我很重要的事情

It is about food, but it's not about cooking, per se.

那是有關食物，但不是有關烹飪的本質

I'm going to start with this picture of a beautiful cow.

讓我用一幅美麗的母牛照片作開始

I'm not a vegetarian -- this is the old Nixon line, right?

我不是一位素食主義者 -- 這聽起來好像是尼克森的用語吧！

But I still think that this --

但我仍然認為這 --

(Laughter)

(笑)

-- may be this year's version of this.

-- 可能是現在的情況

Now, that is only a little bit hyperbolic.

只不過有一點誇張罷了

And why do I say it?

我為什麼說這些呢?

Because only once before has the fate of individual people

因為以前曾經有一次，個人的命運

and the fate of all of humanity

和全人類的命運是

been so intertwined.

緊緊連在一起的

There was the bomb, and there's now.

過去是原子彈，而這個是現在

And where we go from here is going to determine

我們現在的決定

not only the quality and the length of our individual lives,

不單影響到個人生活的質素和長短

but whether, if we could see the Earth a century from now,

還影響我們是否在一個世紀後

we'd recognize it.

仍能認出我們的地球

It's a holocaust of a different kind,

這是另類的大屠殺

and hiding under our desks isn't going to help.

而逃避於事無補

Start with the notion that global warming

由全球暖化的概念開始

is not only real, but dangerous.

我們知道這不僅是真實的而且是非常危險

Since every scientist in the world now believes this,

自此，每一位科學家都對此表示認同

and even President Bush has seen the light, or pretends to,

連總統布希亦領悟此事實，縱然他可能只是假裝領悟

we can take this is a given.

我們可拿此作假設

Then hear this, please.

請各位聽我說

After energy production, livestock is the second-highest contributor

家畜是繼能源生產之後

to atmosphere-altering gases.

產生最多改變氣候氣體的元兇

Nearly one-fifth of all greenhouse gas

近五分之一的溫室氣體

is generated by livestock production --

是由畜牧業產生 --

more than transportation.

這比運輸業還要多

Now, you can make all the jokes you want about cow farts,

現在，你可盡情地開有關牛屁的笑話

but methane is 20 times more poisonous than CO2,

因為，甲烷的有害程度是二氧化碳的20倍

and it's not just methane.

而這不止於甲烷

Livestock is also one of the biggest culprits in land degradation,

畜牧業是土地退化、空氣食水污染、

air and water pollution, water shortages and loss of biodiversity.

食水短缺和喪失生物多樣化的最大元兇之一

There's more.

還有更多

Like half the antibiotics in this country

這個國家有一半的抗生素

are not administered to people, but to animals.

不是用在人類上而是用在動物上

But lists like this become kind of numbing, so let me just say this:

列舉這些會變得有點麻木，因此容許我這樣說

if you're a progressive,

倘若你是一位革新主義者

if you're driving a Prius, or you're shopping green,

倘若你駕駛著Prius混合動力電動汽車，或你支持綠色消費

or you're looking for organic,

或你尋找有機食物

you should probably be a semi-vegetarian.

你大概是一位半素食主義者

Now, I'm no more anti-cattle than I am anti-atom,

我反對進食牛肉有如反對原子彈一樣

but it's all in the way we use these things.

但這視乎我們怎樣利用這些東西

There's another piece of the puzzle,

昨天安古柏(Ann Cooper)的演講很精彩地講到

which Ann Cooper talked about beautifully yesterday,

構成這現象的另一實情

and one you already know.

你已經知曉

There's no question, none, that so-called lifestyle diseases --

無可否認地，那些所謂的都市病 --

diabetes, heart disease, stroke, some cancers --

如糖尿病、心臟病、中風、幾種癌症 --

are diseases that are far more prevalent here

這些疾病在這個國家裡

than anywhere in the rest of the world.

比其他國家來得普遍

And that's the direct result of eating a Western diet.

這就是西方飲食方式所導致的直接結果

Our demand for meat, dairy and refined carbohydrates --

我們對肉類、奶類產品、和精煉碳水化合物的需求　－

the world consumes one billion cans or bottles of Coke a day --

全球每一天消耗十萬罐或十萬樽可樂　－

our demand for these things, not our need, our want,

我們對這些東西的需求不是我們所需要的，而是我們的慾望

drives us to consume way more calories than are good for us.

驅使我們吃比我們最佳攝取量更多的卡路里

And those calories are in foods that cause, not prevent, disease.

而在食物中的卡路里導致了疾病的產生，而非防止

Now global warming was unforeseen.

現在全球氣候暖化是預料之外的

We didn't know that pollution did more than cause bad visibility.

以前我們不知道污染除了降低能見度外還有什麼其他影響

Maybe a few lung diseases here and there,

可能在這裡或那裡造成肺癌

but, you know, that's not such a big deal.

但你知道這些都沒大不了

The current health crisis, however,

但是現在的健康危機

is a little more the work of the evil empire.

比一個邪惡帝國的危害還要嚴重

We were told, we were assured,

我們被告知並確信

that the more meat and dairy and poultry we ate,

越是多吃肉類、奶類、或家禽

the healthier we'd be.

我們就越健康

No. Overconsumption of animals, and of course, junk food,

不是。過度進食動物，當然也包括垃圾食物，

is the problem, along with our paltry consumption of plants.

是一個問題，還有對植物攝取不足。

Now, there's no time to get into the benefits of eating plants here,

我們現在這裡沒有時間說明進食蔬菜的好處

but the evidence is that plants -- and I want to make this clear --

但有證據證明植物 -- 我重申 --

it's not the ingredients in plants, it's the plants.

不是植物的組成部分，而是植物本身

It's not the beta-carotene, it's the carrot.

不是胡蘿蔔素，而是胡蘿蔔本身

The evidence is very clear that plants promote health.

證據清楚顯示植物有助健康

This evidence is overwhelming at this point.

這證據在這點上更加充分

You eat more plants, you eat less other stuff, you live longer.

我們多吃蔬菜，我們少吃其他物質，我們會更長壽

Not bad.

不錯吧

But back to animals and junk food.

讓我們回去動物和垃圾食物這個問題上

What do they have in common?

兩者有什麼共通點呢?

One: we don't need either of them for health.

一：我們不需要它們任何一個來維持健康

We don't need animal products,

我們不需要動物產品

and we certainly don't need white bread or Coke.

我們當然更加不需要白麵包或可樂

Two: both have been marketed heavily,

二：它們兩者都過份廣泛推銷

creating unnatural demand.

這形成不自然的需求

We're not born craving Whoppers or Skittles.

我們不是天生渴望得到 Whoppes 或 Skittles 彩虹糖

Three: their production has been supported by government agencies

三：它們的生產是由政府機構所支持

at the expense of a more health- and Earth-friendly diet.

犧牲了食用更健康和更天然食物的選擇

Now, let's imagine a parallel.

讓我們想像一個平行面

Let's pretend that our government supported an oil-based economy,

我們假設政府支持以石油主導的經濟

while discouraging more sustainable forms of energy,

同時亦阻止更加可持續發展的能源

knowing all the while that the result would be

亦知道這些都只會帶來

pollution, war and rising costs.

污染、戰爭和更高的成本

Incredible, isn't it?

不可思議吧!

Yet they do that.

但這就是他們的所為

And they do this here. It's the same deal.

他們對食物也是如此。如出一轍。

The sad thing is, when it comes to diet,

可悲的是，當飲食這個問題

is that even when well-intentioned Feds

就算聯邦政府那麼用心地

try to do right by us, they fail.

嘗試規範我們，他們亦失敗

Either they're outvoted by puppets of agribusiness,

他們若不是被農產業的傀儡以票數擊敗

or they are puppets of agribusiness.

或者他們本身就是農產業的傀儡

So, when the USDA finally acknowledged

所以，當美國食品安全管理局終於承認

that it was plants, rather than animals, that made people healthy,

是植物而不是動物能令人類更健康

they encouraged us, via their overly simplistic food pyramid,

它們用過於簡化的食物金字塔來鼓勵我們

to eat five servings of fruits and vegetables a day,

每天吃5份水果蔬菜

along with more carbs.

以及大量的碳水化合物

What they didn't tell us is that some carbs are better than others,

但他們沒有告訴我們某些碳水化合物比較好

and that plants and whole grains

亦沒有告訴我們植物和全穀類食物

should be supplanting eating junk food.

應取代垃圾食物

But industry lobbyists would never let that happen.

而業界的遊說者不容許這樣發生

And guess what?

你知嗎?

Half the people who developed the food pyramid

發明食物金字塔的人

have ties to agribusiness.

有一半與農產業有關聯

So, instead of substituting plants for animals,

因此，與其以植物取代動物

our swollen appetites simply became larger,

他們簡單地把人的食量變大

and the most dangerous aspects of them remained unchanged.

而最危險的部份卻維持不變

So-called low-fat diets, so-called low-carb diets --

所謂的低脂食物或低碳水化合物的食物

these are not solutions.

都不是解決的方法

But with lots of intelligent people

但很多有知識的人士

focusing on whether food is organic or local,

只著眼於食物是否有機種植或是否出自原居地

or whether we're being nice to animals,

或"是否善待動物"

the most important issues just aren't being addressed.

最重要的一環卻沒有涉及

Now, don't get me wrong.

不要誤會我

I like animals,

我很喜歡動物

and I don't think it's just fine to industrialize their production

但我不認為應該把牠們工業化地生產

and to churn them out like they were wrenches.

和大量生產牠們猶如牠們是機器一般

But there's no way to treat animals well,

當你們每年殺死一百億的動物時

when you're killing 10 billion of them a year.

無一種方法你可以說是友善的

That's our number. 10 billion.

這是我們的數字，一百億

If you strung all of them --

如果你把牠們綁在一起 --

chickens, cows, pigs and lambs -- to the moon,

雞、牛、豬、羊 --

they'd go there and back five times, there and back.

牠們可以來回地球和月球五次 -- 是來回

Now, my math's a little shaky, but this is pretty good,

我的數學有灰色地帶，但也很不錯的

and it depends whether a pig is four feet long or five feet long,

當然你要視乎那頭豬是四呎長還是五呎長

but you get the idea.

但你應該可以得到一些概念

That's just the United States.

這只是在美國

And with our hyper-consumption of those animals

我們過度食用動物

producing greenhouse gases and heart disease,

產生溫室氣體、引致心臟病

kindness might just be a bit of a red herring.

善待動物只是為了轉移視線罷了

Let's get the numbers of the animals we're killing for eating down,

只有減少那些因我們食用而被殺害的動物

and then we'll worry about being nice to the ones that are left.

我們才能想如何善待那些剩下來的

Another red herring might be exemplified by the word "locavore,"

另一個轉移焦點的典型代表是"土食主義" (locavore)

which was just named word of the year by the New Oxford American Dictionary.

這個字剛被新牛津美國詞典列為年度單詞

Seriously.

很嚴肅的

And locavore, for those of you who don't know,

而"土食主義"， 若你們不知，

is someone who eats only locally grown food --

是指那些只吃本地種植食物的人

which is fine if you live in California,

如你住在美國加州當然不成問題

but for the rest of us it's a bit of a sad joke.

但對於其他人，這只是一個可悲的笑話

Between the official story -- the food pyramid --

在官方的故事 -- 食物金字塔 --

and the hip locavore vision,

和時興的土食主義的觀念中

you have two versions of how to improve our eating.

你有兩個改善飲食的方式

(Laughter).

(笑)

They both get it wrong, though.

但兩個方式都是錯誤的

The first at least is populist, and the second is elitist.

第一個方式至少是大眾化，而第二個方式就只是精英論調

How we got to this place is the history of food in the United States.

我們如何弄到如斯田地正是美國飲食文化的發展史

And I'm going to go through that,

我很快地為大家講解

at least the last hundred years or so, very quickly right now.

距今大約至少一百年的演變

A hundred years ago, guess what?

你知在一百年前是怎樣的?

Everyone was a locavore: even New York had pig farms nearby,

所有人都奉行土食主義。連紐約也有畜豬場在附近

and shipping food all over the place was a ridiculous notion.

把食物運到全世界各地是天方夜譚的事情

Every family had a cook, usually a mom.

每個家庭都有一位廚師，通常都是媽媽

And those moms bought and prepared food.

而那些媽媽會買和準備食物

It was like your romantic vision of Europe.

這好像歐洲浪漫的景象

Margarine didn't exist.

麥淇淋(人造奶油)並不存在

In fact, when margarine was invented,

而實情是當麥淇淋發明時

several states passed laws declaring that it had to be dyed pink,

有數個州通過法律要求麥淇淋必須染成粉紅色

so we'd all know that it was a fake.

使我們知道它是人造的

There was no snack food, and until the '20s,

那時沒有零食小吃。直至二十年代

until Clarence Birdseye came along, there was no frozen food.

伯宰(Birdseye)的出現才有冷凍食物

There were no restaurant chains.

那時沒有餐廳連鎖店

There were neighborhood restaurants run by local people,

只有由本地人經營的鄰居小店

but none of them would think to open another one.

沒有人會想開分店

Eating ethnic was unheard of unless you were ethnic.

民族食品是聞所未聞，除非你是其他種族的人

And fancy food was entirely French.

特級的食物全是法國菜

As an aside, those of you who remember

順便一提，如果你們記得

Dan Aykroyd in the 1970s doing Julia Child imitations

丹·艾克洛德 (Dan Aykroyd) 在 20 世紀 70年代模仿朱麗亞 (Julia Child)

can see where he got the idea of stabbing himself from this fabulous slide.

可以看到他用難以置信的滑行刺傷自己的想法

(Laughter)

(笑)

Back in those days, before even Julia,

那時，比朱麗亞更早的時代

back in those days, there was no philosophy of food.

是沒有食物理論

You just ate.

只有食

You didn't claim to be anything.

你不會要求什麼

There was no marketing. There were no national brands.

那時沒有市場行銷，亦沒有全國品牌

Vitamins had not been invented.

維他命還沒發明

There were no health claims, at least not federally sanctioned ones.

那時沒有醫療索賠，至少沒有聯邦政府認可那種

Fats, carbs, proteins -- they weren't bad or good, they were food.

脂肪、碳水化合物、蛋白質 -- 沒有好壞之分，它們只是食物

You ate food.

你們吃食物

Hardly anything contained more than one ingredient,

幾乎所有東西不會含多過一種的原料

because it was an ingredient.

因為它們本身即為一種原料

The cornflake hadn't been invented.

玉米片還沒發明

(Laughter)

(笑)

The Pop-Tart, the Pringle, Cheez Whiz, none of that stuff.

Pop-Tart 、Pringle 薯片、Cheez Whiz，這些都沒有

Goldfish swam.

金魚是在游泳(沒有金魚餅乾)

(Laughter)

(笑)

It's hard to imagine. People grew food, and they ate food.

很難相信吧。所有人在種他們的食物，食他們的食物

And again, everyone ate local.

再次，每一個人都食本地食物

In New York, an orange was a common Christmas present,

在紐約，橘子是一個常見的聖誕禮物

because it came all the way from Florida.

因為它們從佛羅里達州遠道而來

From the '30s on, road systems expanded,

自從三十年代，道路系統不斷擴展

trucks took the place of railroads,

貨車取代鐵路

fresh food began to travel more.

新鮮的食物開始往來頻繁

Oranges became common in New York.

橘子在紐約變得更加普遍

The South and West became agricultural hubs,

南部和西部地區變成農業中心

and in other parts of the country, suburbs took over farmland.

在其他地方，村鎮取代了農田

The effects of this are well known. They are everywhere.

它的影響很深遠，而且隨處可見

And the death of family farms is part of this puzzle,

而家庭式農場的末落只是其中的一部分

as is almost everything

因為幾乎所有

from the demise of the real community

從實際消亡的社區

to the challenge of finding a good tomato, even in summer.

到夏天為找尋美好的番茄而遇到的困難

Eventually, California produced too much food to ship fresh,

到最後，加州生產的食物過剩

so it became critical to market canned and frozen foods.

於是市場必須把食物裝成罐頭和冷藏

Thus arrived convenience.

從而更加方便運輸

It was sold to proto-feminist housewives

它們如售賣給支持女權主義的家庭主婦

as a way to cut down on housework.

來減少家務

Now, I know everybody over the age of, like 45 --

我知道現在若然你們的年齡超過45歲

their mouths are watering at this point.

你們在此刻應該垂涎三尺

(Laughter)

(笑)

(Applause)

(鼓掌)

If we had a slide of Salisbury steak, even more so, right?

倘若我們有一張Salisbury牛排的幻燈片，你們應該更甚，對嗎?

(Laughter)

(笑)

But this may have cut down on housework,

雖然這可能減少了家務

but it cut down on the variety of food we ate as well.

但同時亦減少我們吃食物的種類

Many of us grew up never eating a fresh vegetable

很多人長大時從未吃過新鮮蔬菜

except the occasional raw carrot or maybe an odd lettuce salad.

除了偶然吃過生蘿蔔或古怪的椰菜沙拉

I, for one -- and I'm not kidding --

我就是其中一位 -- 我不是說笑 --

didn't eat real spinach or broccoli till I was 19.

我未曾吃過一個真正的菠菜或西蘭花(花椰菜)直至我十九歲

Who needed it though? Meat was everywhere.

誰要這些呢?肉類到處都有

What could be easier, more filling or healthier for your family

有什麼東西比煎一塊牛排能供給你家人更加的

than broiling a steak?

簡單、飽足和健康呢?

But by then cattle were already raised unnaturally.

但自此，牛隻就開始不自然地飼養

Rather than spending their lives eating grass,

牠們不再吃草

for which their stomachs were designed,

就好像牠們的胃所設計的那樣

they were forced to eat soy and corn.

牠們被強迫吃著黃豆和玉米

They have trouble digesting those grains, of course,

當然牠們的胃不能消化這些穀物

but that wasn't a problem for producers.

但這對生產者來說不成問題

New drugs kept them healthy.

新的藥物令牠們健康

Well, they kept them alive.

或者可以說令牠們生存

Healthy was another story.

與健康是兩碼子的事

Thanks to farm subsidies,

由於農業補貼、

the fine collaboration between agribusiness and Congress,

農產業與議會的合作

soy, corn and cattle became king.

黃豆、玉米和牛隻成為王者

And chicken soon joined them on the throne.

而雞隻也很快地加入其中

It was during this period that the cycle of

就在這段時期裡

dietary and planetary destruction began,

飲食的規定和地球的破壞開始了

the thing we're only realizing just now.

但我們直到現在才意識到這事實

Listen to this,

聽著

between 1950 and 2000, the world's population doubled.

在1950年至2000年裡，世界人口增長一倍

Meat consumption increased five-fold.

而肉類的消耗量卻增加五倍

Now, someone had to eat all that stuff, so we got fast food.

現在某些人只吃這些，因此我們有快餐

And this took care of the situation resoundingly.

這成功地解決問題

Home cooking remained the norm, but its quality was down the tubes.

在家煮食仍然普遍，但它的品質下降

There were fewer meals with home-cooked breads, desserts and soups,

少了那些自家製的麵包、甜點和湯

because all of them could be bought at any store.

因為它們全可在店舖裡買得到

Not that they were any good, but they were there.

不是因為它們比較好，而是因為那裡可以買得到

Most moms cooked like mine:

很多母親像我的母親一樣

a piece of broiled meat, a quickly made salad with bottled dressing,

用一片烤過的肉和一瓶沙拉醬、罐裝湯、

canned soup, canned fruit salad.

罐裝水果快速地弄成沙拉

Maybe baked or mashed potatoes,

或許有烤薯或馬鈴薯泥

or perhaps the stupidest food ever, Minute Rice.

或者有史以來最愚蠢的食物 -- 一分鐘米飯

For dessert, store-bought ice cream or cookies.

關於甜點，你可在店裡買到冰淇淋或甜餅乾

My mom is not here, so I can say this now.

我的母親不在這，所以我現在可以說

This kind of cooking drove me to learn how to cook for myself.

這樣的煮食方法驅使我學習烹飪

(Laughter)

(笑)

It wasn't all bad.

不全是糟糕的事

By the '70s, forward-thinking people

在七十年代那些前衛的人

began to recognize the value of local ingredients.

開始發現在地食材的價值

We tended gardens, we became interested in organic food,

我們走向田園，我們對有機食物更感興趣

we knew or we were vegetarians.

我們知道、或我們本身是素食者

We weren't all hippies, either.

我們不全是嬉皮族

Some of us were eating in good restaurants and learning how to cook well.

我們有部份人會到好的餐廳進食和學習如何煮出好的食物

Meanwhile, food production had become industrial. Industrial.

同時，食物的生產變成工業化。工業化

Perhaps because it was being produced rationally,

可能是因為它們可全面生產

as if it were plastic,

如同塑膠一般

food gained magical or poisonous powers, or both.

食物可以供給奇妙的能量或有毒的能量，或兩者都有

Many people became fat-phobic.

很多人得了脂肪恐懼症

Others worshiped broccoli, as if it were God-like.

有些人崇拜西蘭花如同敬拜神一樣

But mostly they didn't eat broccoli.

但他們多半是不吃西蘭花的

Instead they were sold on yogurt,

相反地，他們被說服吃酸乳酪 (優格)

yogurt being almost as good as broccoli.

酸乳酪差不多與西蘭花一樣有益

Except, in reality, the way the industry sold yogurt

除了在實際情況下，他們售賣酸乳酪的方法

was to convert it to something much more akin to ice cream.

是將它轉化成類似冰淇淋一樣的東西售賣

Similarly, let's look at a granola bar.

同樣地，讓我們看看能量條 (granola bar)

You think that that might be healthy food,

你會想它們應該是一種健康食品

but in fact, if you look at the ingredient list,

但實際上如果你看看它們的成分表

it's closer in form to a Snickers than it is to oatmeal.

它們類似士力架(Snickers)多於燕麥片

Sadly, it was at this time that the family dinner was put in a coma,

可悲的是，就是那個時候，家庭的晚餐陷入呆板的狀態

if not actually killed --

如果不致於死亡

the beginning of the heyday of value-added food,

食品加工的全盛期開始時

which contained as many soy and corn products

食物包含很多大豆和玉米材料

as could be crammed into it.

添加在其中

Think of the frozen chicken nugget.

想想冷藏的雞塊

The chicken is fed corn, and then its meat is ground up,

它們用玉米飼養雞隻，然後把牠們的肉磨碎

and mixed with more corn products to add bulk and binder,

與摻雜更多的玉米類製品使其更加膨脹和黏結

and then it's fried in corn oil.

然後把它用玉米油來煎

All you do is nuke it. What could be better?

而你只在微波爐中加熱。還有什麼比這更好呢?

And zapped horribly, pathetically.

非常糟糕可悲

By the '70s, home cooking was in such a sad state

到了七十年代，家庭煮食變成一件可悲的狀況

that the high fat and spice contents of foods

高脂肪和香料成為食物的主要內容

like McNuggets and Hot Pockets --

如麥克雞塊和 Hot Pockets --

and we all have our favorites, actually --

我們其實各有所好，事實上 --

made this stuff more appealing than the bland things

他們把這些東西弄得比那些在家吃到的平淡東西

that people were serving at home.

還要更加吸引人

At the same time, masses of women were entering the workforce,

同時，大量女性加入勞動人口的行列之中

and cooking simply wasn't important enough

煮食又不足以

for men to share the burden.

讓男士來分擔

So now, you've got your pizza nights, you've got your microwave nights,

因此，現在你們有披薩之夜、或微波爐之夜、

you've got your grazing nights,

或小吃之夜、

you've got your fend-for-yourself nights and so on.

或自顧自之夜等等

Leading the way -- what's leading the way?

導致了 -- 這些導致了什麼?

Meat, junk food, cheese:

肉類、垃圾食物、乳酪

the very stuff that will kill you.

這些都在減少你的壽命

So, now we clamor for organic food.

所以現在我們嚷著要有機食品

That's good.

非常好

And as evidence that things can actually change,

這證明了事實上，事情是可以轉變的

you can now find organic food in supermarkets,

我們可在超市找到有機食物

and even in fast-food outlets.

甚至在快餐連鎖店

But organic food isn't the answer either,

但有機食物也不是解決方法

at least not the way it's currently defined.

至少在現在的定義下

Let me pose you a question.

讓我問大家一個問題

Can farm-raised salmon be organic,

農場飼養的三文魚 (鮭魚) 是否有機?

when its feed has nothing to do with its natural diet,

當牠們所吃的食物不是自然的食品

even if the feed itself is supposedly organic, and the fish themselves

就算牠們所吃的食物是有機，牠們被擠在

are packed tightly in pens, swimming in their own filth?

魚池裡，在自己的污穢物中游泳

And if that salmon's from Chile, and it's killed down there

如果在智利的三文魚在智利被殺

and then flown 5,000 miles, whatever,

然後飛往五千英里外

dumping how much carbon into the atmosphere?

在大氣中產生這麼多二氧化碳，這樣仍然有機?

I don't know.

我不知道

Packed in Styrofoam, of course,

當然包裝在聚苯乙烯泡沫塑料中

before landing somewhere in the United States,

然後才在美國境內某一處著陸

and then being trucked a few hundred more miles.

然後再被卡車運送幾百英里

This may be organic in letter, but it's surely not organic in spirit.

你可以在字眼上說牠們是有機，但牠們本質上肯定不是

Now here is where we all meet.

我們在此相遇

The locavores, the organivores, the vegetarians,

土食主義者、有機主義者、素食主義者、

the vegans, the gourmets

嚴守素食主義者、美食家、

and those of us who are just plain interested in good food.

和那些純粹喜歡美味食物的人

Even though we've come to this from different points,

雖然我們的出發點不同

we all have to act on our knowledge

我們都可憑我們的學識來

to change the way that everyone thinks about food.

改變所有人對食物的看法

We need to start acting.

我們必須行動

And this is not only an issue of social justice, as Ann Cooper said --

這不單只是安古柏所說的社會正義 --

and, of course, she's completely right --

當然她說的完全對 --

but it's also one of global survival.

但這亦是有關地球的存亡

Which bring me full circle and points directly to the core issue,

我們回到問題的關鍵

the overproduction and overconsumption of meat and junk food.

肉類和垃圾食物的過份生產與過度消耗

As I said, 18 percent of greenhouse gases

如我之前所說，百分之十八的溫室氣體

are attributed to livestock production.

是歸咎於家畜的生產

How much livestock do you need to produce this?

需要多少的家畜才能產生這些呢?

70 percent of the agricultural land on Earth,

地球上有百分之七十的農地

30 percent of the Earth's land surface is directly or indirectly devoted

在地球上有百分之三十的土地是直接或間接用於

to raising the animals we'll eat.

飼養那些供給我們食用的家畜上

And this amount is predicted to double in the next 40 years or so.

而這個數量預計在未來的四十年裡增加一倍

And if the numbers coming in from China

如果這個數字是來自中國

are anything like what they look like now,

是我們現在看見它們的那樣

it's not going to be 40 years.

這將不需要四十年

There is no good reason for eating as much meat as we do.

我們沒理由像那樣吃這麼多肉

And I say this as a man who has eaten a fair share of corned beef in his life.

我是以一個這輩子吃了相當份量鹹牛肉的人的身份這麼說的

The most common argument is that we need nutrients --

最常見的反駁是: 我們需要營養

even though we eat, on average, twice as much protein

即使我們平均食用的蛋白質已相當於

as even the industry-obsessed USDA recommends.

美國食物安全管理局所建議的兩倍

But listen: experts who are serious about disease reduction

但聽著 -- 那些對減少疾病非常認真的專家

recommend that adults eat just over half a pound of meat per week.

建議每一位成年人每一星期食少於半磅的肉

What do you think we eat per day? Half a pound.

你知不知你每天吃多少肉? 半磅

But don't we need meat to be big and strong?

我們不是需要肉類來使我們更壯健和強大嗎?

Isn't meat eating essential to health?

肉類不是對我們的健康很重要嗎?

Won't a diet heavy in fruit and vegetables

過多的水果和蔬菜不是把我們

turn us into godless, sissy, liberals?

變成無慾無求，缺乏剛陽味和自由派嗎?

(Laughter)

(笑)

Some of us might think that would be a good thing.

某些人認為這可能是不錯的事情

But, no, even if we were all steroid-filled football players,

但不是，縱然你是一個填滿類固醇的美式足球員

the answer is no.

那個答案仍然是"不"

In fact, there's no diet on Earth that meets

而事實上,世上沒有一個滿足基本營養需求的飲食

basic nutritional needs that won't promote growth,

是不促使成長

and many will make you much healthier than ours does.

而有很多東西能比我們現在的更健康

We don't eat animal products for sufficient nutrition,

我們不是為了有充足的營養才吃肉類食物

we eat them to have an odd form of malnutrition, and it's killing us.

吃牠們反令我們營養不良，並把我們推向死亡

To suggest that in the interests of personal and human health

為了美國人的個人以及人類的健康著想

Americans eat 50 percent less meat --

吃比現在少一半的肉類 --

it's not enough of a cut, but it's a start.

這個減少雖然不夠，但也是個開始

It would seem absurd, but that's exactly what should happen,

它看上去好像很荒謬，但這正是應該發生的事情

and what progressive people, forward-thinking people

亦是那些進步的人、思慮周全的人

should be doing and advocating,

所應該做和應該鼓吹的事情

along with the corresponding increase in the consumption of plants.

同時，相應地增加食用蔬菜

I've been writing about food more or less omnivorously --

我過去三十年來一直寫作不同種類的食物

one might say indiscriminately -- for about 30 years.

可說是沒有任何揀選

During that time, I've eaten

在那時候我吃著和

and recommended eating just about everything.

鼓勵別人吃著所有東西

I'll never stop eating animals, I'm sure,

我不會停止吃動物，我確信

but I do think that for the benefit of everyone,

但我相信為著所有人的利益著想

the time has come to stop raising them industrially

現在是時候停止用工業式的方式飼養牠們

and stop eating them thoughtlessly.

和無意識的濫吃

Ann Cooper's right.

安古柏說得對

The USDA is not our ally here.

美國食物安全管理局不是我們的盟友

We have to take matters into our own hands,

我們必須靠自己的雙手

not only by advocating for a better diet for everyone --

不單向別人鼓吹一個更好的飲食方式 --

and that's the hard part -- but by improving our own.

這是最難的一部分 -- 亦必須改善自己的飲食

And that happens to be quite easy.

這相對比較容易

Less meat, less junk, more plants.

少肉,少垃圾食物，多蔬菜

It's a simple formula: eat food.

用這個簡易的方程式來進食

Eat real food.

食真的食物

We can continue to enjoy our food, and we continue to eat well,

我們可繼續享受食物，我們繼續吃得健康

and we can eat even better.

而我們可以吃得更好

We can continue the search for the ingredients we love,

我們可以繼續尋找我們喜歡的食材

and we can continue to spin yarns about our favorite meals.

我們可以繼續講有關我們所喜歡的佳餚的故事

We'll reduce not only calories, but our carbon footprint.

我們不但能減少卡路里亦能減少碳排放

We can make food more important, not less,

我們令食物更加重要而不是輕視它們

and save ourselves by doing so.

我們亦把自己拯救出來

We have to choose that path.

我們必須作出這個選擇

Thank you.

(謝謝)