Dan Barber: How I fell in love with a fish

353,245 views ・ 2010-03-10

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譯者: Dxm Online大小媒體 審譯者: Marie Wu
00:16
So, I've known a lot of fish in my life.
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我一生中接觸過很多魚,
00:20
I've loved only two.
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只有兩種是我的最愛。
00:23
That first one,
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第一種,
00:25
it was more like a passionate affair.
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是一種熱烈的情感,
00:28
It was a beautiful fish:
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那條美麗的魚,
00:30
flavorful, textured, meaty,
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美味、紋理、肉質都是一等,
00:33
a bestseller on the menu.
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是菜單上最暢銷的菜,
00:35
What a fish.
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多麼棒的魚呀!
00:37
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
00:40
Even better,
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更好的是,
00:42
it was farm-raised to the supposed highest standards
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它是由人工養殖場,所培育出可持續提供的
00:45
of sustainability.
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最高標準的魚,
00:48
So you could feel good about selling it.
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賣牠的人也會感到安心。
00:52
I was in a relationship with this beauty
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我曾經沉醉於這美麗的關係中,
00:54
for several months.
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大概維持了幾個月。
00:58
One day, the head of the company called
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有一天,這個公司的高層打電話給我,
01:00
and asked if I'd speak at an event
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希望我能針對這個養殖場持續提供漁源,
01:02
about the farm's sustainability.
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發表一場演說。
01:04
"Absolutely," I said.
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我說:「當然可以。」
01:06
Here was a company trying to solve
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這個公司正是要試圖解決一個
01:09
what's become this unimaginable problem for us chefs:
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對我們廚師來說,無法想像的問題:
01:13
How do we keep fish on our menus?
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如何持續供應魚類餐點?
01:17
For the past 50 years,
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在過去的50年中,
01:20
we've been fishing the seas
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我們從各個海洋中捕魚,
01:22
like we clear-cut forests.
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就像是砍伐樹木,
01:25
It's hard to overstate the destruction.
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我絕不是誇大它的破壞性。
01:30
Ninety percent of large fish, the ones we love --
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但我們喜愛的大型魚類裡,有90%的
01:33
the tunas, the halibuts, the salmons, swordfish --
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鮪魚,大比目魚,鮭魚,劍魚等,
01:36
they've collapsed.
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他們的生態遭受重創,
01:38
There's almost nothing left.
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幾乎沒有剩下多少了。
01:41
So, for better or for worse,
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所以,不管是好是壞,
01:44
aquaculture, fish farming, is going to be a part of our future.
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水產養殖業、人工漁場,都會成為我們未來的一部分。
01:47
A lot of arguments against it:
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有很多針對這個行業的爭論,
01:49
Fish farms pollute -- most of them do anyway --
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因為大部分養殖漁場都會污染環境,
01:52
and they're inefficient. Take tuna,
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而且效率很低。以鮪魚為例,
01:54
a major drawback.
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最主要的弊病是,
01:56
It's got a feed conversion ratio
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養殖鮪魚的飼料轉換率
01:58
of 15 to one.
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是15比1,
02:00
That means it takes fifteen pounds of wild fish
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意思是,你要用15磅的野生魚類當飼料,
02:02
to get you one pound of farm tuna.
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才能養出1磅的養殖鮪魚。
02:06
Not very sustainable.
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漁場不容易經營,
02:08
It doesn't taste very good either.
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魚也不好吃。
02:11
So here, finally,
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最後,
02:13
was a company trying to do it right.
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終於有一家公司想好好做事了,
02:15
I wanted to support them.
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我也想支持他們。
02:18
The day before the event,
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就在那次活動的前一天,
02:20
I called the head of P.R. for the company.
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我聯繫了公司的公關部門負責人,
02:23
Let's call him Don.
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就讓我們暫且稱呼他為“唐”吧...
02:27
"Don," I said, "just to get the facts straight, you guys are famous
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我說:“唐閣下,是這樣的,你們的人工養殖漁場
02:30
for farming so far out to sea, you don't pollute."
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最有名之處就是設置在遠洋,而且不會產生污染。"
02:33
"That's right," he said. "We're so far out,
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他回應:“你說的對。我們作業的地點很遠,
02:36
the waste from our fish gets distributed,
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我們漁場所產生的污染物都被稀釋掉了,
02:39
not concentrated."
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不會集中殘留在一個地方。"
02:41
And then he added,
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然後他補充,
02:43
"We're basically a world unto ourselves.
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“那是我們自己的漁場,
02:47
That feed conversion ratio? 2.5 to one," he said.
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飼料轉換率?2.5比1,” 他說。
02:50
"Best in the business."
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“業界中最好的。”
02:52
2.5 to one, great.
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2.5比 1,很好
02:54
"2.5 what? What are you feeding?"
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“2.5比什麼呢?你們餵什麼?”
02:56
"Sustainable proteins," he said.
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他回答道: “可持續性蛋白質。”
02:59
"Great," I said. Got off the phone.
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“很好。”然後我們掛了電話。
03:02
And that night, I was lying in bed, and I thought:
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結果那晚, 我躺在床上想:
03:05
What the hell is a sustainable protein?
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可持續性蛋白質是什麼鬼東西呀?
03:07
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
03:12
So the next day, just before the event, I called Don.
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所以第二天,就在那個活動之前,我打電話給唐,
03:14
I said, "Don, what are some examples of sustainable proteins?"
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我問道:"唐閣下,可持續性蛋白質大概是什麼東西啊?"
03:18
He said he didn't know. He would ask around.
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他說他不知道,他會去問問周圍的人。
03:21
Well, I got on the phone with a few people in the company;
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然後,我和這個公司裡的一些人通了電話,
03:23
no one could give me a straight answer
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但是沒有人能給我一個明確的答案。
03:26
until finally, I got on the phone
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直到最後, 我和他們的首席生物學家
03:29
with the head biologist.
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通上了電話。
03:31
Let's call him Don too.
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讓我也暫且叫他“唐"...
03:33
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
03:37
"Don," I said,
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我說:"唐,"
03:39
"what are some examples of sustainable proteins?"
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你能否舉例說明一下,可持續性蛋白質是些什麼東西嗎?"
03:42
Well, he mentioned some algaes
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然後,他提到一些藻類,
03:44
and some fish meals,
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還有一些魚肉,
03:46
and then he said chicken pellets.
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然後他提到雞肉丸,
03:48
I said, "Chicken pellets?"
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我說:“雞肉丸?“
03:50
He said, "Yeah, feathers, skin,
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他說:「是的,羽毛、雞皮、
03:52
bone meal, scraps,
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骨頭、剩料等,
03:54
dried and processed into feed."
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被曬乾加工後做成飼料。”
03:57
I said, "What percentage
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我說:“雞在你們的飼料中
03:59
of your feed is chicken?"
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所占的比例是多少?”
04:02
Thinking, you know, two percent.
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你知道,我心裡想大概是2%吧。
04:05
"Well, it's about 30 percent," he said.
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結果他說:“嗯,大概佔30%,”
04:08
I said, "Don, what's sustainable
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我說,“唐閣下,用雞餵魚,
04:11
about feeding chicken to fish?"
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這算什麼可持續性?”
04:13
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
04:18
There was a long pause on the line,
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電話的那邊安靜了很長時間,
04:21
and he said, "There's just too much chicken in the world."
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然後他說,“世界上的雞真的太多了。”
04:24
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
04:30
I fell out of love with this fish.
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於是,我不再愛這魚了。
04:32
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
04:34
No, not because I'm some self-righteous,
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不,不是因為我是個自以為正直的
04:37
goody-two shoes foodie.
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偽善美食家,
04:39
I actually am.
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其實我是這樣的人沒錯。
04:41
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
04:43
No, I actually fell out of love with this fish because, I swear to God,
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不,我不再愛這個魚了,是因為,我向上帝發誓,
04:45
after that conversation, the fish tasted like chicken.
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在那次對話之後,那個魚嚐起來有雞的味道。
04:48
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
04:58
This second fish,
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這第二條魚,
05:01
it's a different kind of love story.
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它是另一種不同的愛情故事,
05:04
It's the romantic kind,
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是很浪漫的那種,
05:07
the kind where the more you get to know your fish,
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你愈了解那種魚,
05:10
you love the fish.
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你就會愈愛牠。
05:13
I first ate it at a restaurant
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我第一次是在西班牙南部的一個餐廳,
05:15
in southern Spain.
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吃到這種魚。
05:17
A journalist friend had been talking about this fish for a long time.
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有一個記者朋友已經和我提到這種魚很多次了,
05:20
She kind of set us up.
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她可以說是媒人。
05:22
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
05:24
It came to the table
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一條白色、
05:26
a bright, almost shimmering, white color.
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鮮亮透光的魚被端上桌來,
05:31
The chef had overcooked it.
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廚師煮得太熟了,
05:34
Like twice over.
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熟過頭二倍之多,
05:37
Amazingly, it was still delicious.
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但神奇的是,它還是很好吃。
05:40
Who can make a fish taste good
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誰可以做出這樣好吃的魚,
05:44
after it's been overcooked?
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而且還是煮過頭的魚?
05:46
I can't,
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我不能,
05:48
but this guy can.
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但這位廚師可以。
05:50
Let's call him Miguel --
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讓我們叫他米格爾,
05:52
actually his name is Miguel.
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其實他的名字就是米格爾。
05:54
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
05:57
And no, he didn't cook the fish, and he's not a chef,
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但是,他不是煮魚的人,他也不是個廚師,
05:59
at least in the way that you and I understand it.
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至少他不是你我認知的那種廚師,
06:03
He's a biologist
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他是在薇塔拉帕爾馬的
06:05
at Veta La Palma.
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一個生物學家。
06:07
It's a fish farm in the southwestern corner of Spain.
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薇塔拉帕爾馬是位於西班牙西南角的養殖漁場,
06:10
It's at the tip of the Guadalquivir river.
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就在高達爾克維爾河的末端。
06:13
Until the 1980s,
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直到1980年代,
06:15
the farm was in the hands of the Argentinians.
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這個漁場還是由阿根廷人管轄,
06:18
They raised beef cattle
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他們在這裡養牛,
06:20
on what was essentially wetlands.
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因為這裡原本是濕地。
06:23
They did it by draining the land.
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當時他們把水抽走,
06:25
They built this intricate series of canals,
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然後建造了錯綜複雜的運河,
06:28
and they pushed water off the land and out into the river.
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他們接著把這裡的水排入河流。
06:32
Well, they couldn't make it work,
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但是,他們沒有成功,
06:34
not economically.
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我是指經濟方面;
06:36
And ecologically, it was a disaster.
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在環境方面,則造成了巨大的災難,
06:39
It killed like 90 percent of the birds,
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差不多90%的鳥類都消失了,
06:41
which, for this place, is a lot of birds.
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原本這裡的鳥類是很多的。
06:44
And so in 1982,
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到了1982年,
06:46
a Spanish company with an environmental conscience
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一家具有環保意識的的西班牙公司,
06:48
purchased the land.
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購買了這塊地。
06:50
What did they do?
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他們做了什麼?
06:52
They reversed the flow of water.
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他們逆轉了水流的方向,
06:54
They literally flipped the switch.
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翻轉了開關,
06:56
Instead of pushing water out,
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把原本設計要排水的渠道,
06:58
they used the channels to pull water back in.
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反過來把水引進來,
07:00
They flooded the canals.
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用水填滿了這些運河,
07:02
They created a 27,000-acre fish farm --
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然後建立了一個2萬7千英畝的漁場,
07:06
bass, mullet,
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裡頭有鱸魚、梭魚、
07:08
shrimp, eel --
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蝦、鰻魚等。
07:11
and in the process, Miguel and this company
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在這個過程中,米格爾和這個公司
07:14
completely reversed the ecological destruction.
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挽救了這次生態災難。
07:18
The farm's incredible.
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這個漁場真的很棒!
07:20
I mean, you've never seen anything like this.
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我的意思是說,你從沒見過類似這樣的地方,
07:23
You stare out at a horizon
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當你凝視著一萬英哩之外
07:26
that is a million miles away,
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廣闊的地平線,
07:28
and all you see are flooded canals
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你眼前盡是充滿水的運河,
07:30
and this thick, rich marshland.
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還有富饒的沼澤溼地。
07:35
I was there not long ago with Miguel.
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不久前,我和米格爾去過那兒,
07:38
He's an amazing guy,
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他是個了不起的人,
07:41
like three parts Charles Darwin and one part Crocodile Dundee.
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¾是達爾文,¼是鱷魚先生鄧迪。
07:44
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
07:46
Okay? There we are slogging through the wetlands,
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我們步履艱難地進入了濕地,
07:50
and I'm panting and sweating, got mud up to my knees,
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我是氣喘吁吁加汗流浹背,淤泥淹到了我的膝蓋,
07:52
and Miguel's calmly conducting a biology lecture.
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米格爾則是平心靜氣地對我說著他的生物學。
07:56
Here, he's pointing out a rare Black-shouldered Kite.
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他一下指著一隻罕見的黑肩鳶,
07:59
Now, he's mentioning the mineral needs of phytoplankton.
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一下又提到可以滿足礦物質需求的浮游植物,
08:03
And here, here he sees a grouping pattern
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接著他又看到一組圖案,
08:06
that reminds him of the Tanzanian Giraffe.
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讓他聯想起坦桑尼亞的長頸鹿。
08:11
It turns out, Miguel spent the better part of his career
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原來,米格爾曾經花了很長時間,
08:14
in the Mikumi National Park in Africa.
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在非洲的米庫米國家公園工作。
08:17
I asked him how he became
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我問他是怎麼成為
08:19
such an expert on fish.
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一位魚類專家的,
08:21
He said, "Fish? I didn't know anything about fish.
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他說: “魚?我不了解牠們,
08:24
I'm an expert in relationships."
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我只是一個生態關係專家。”
08:27
And then he's off, launching into more talk
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然後他談起了更多
08:29
about rare birds and algaes
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關於稀有鳥類和藻類,
08:31
and strange aquatic plants.
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還有特殊的水生植物。
08:33
And don't get me wrong, that was really fascinating, you know,
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請不要誤解,那樣的談話真的很吸引人,
08:36
the biotic community unplugged, kind of thing.
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他說的生態社群這一類的事情,
08:39
It's great, but I was in love.
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都很好, 但是我心另有所屬,
08:42
And my head was swooning over that
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我腦中始終惦記著那條
08:45
overcooked piece of delicious fish I had the night before.
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我前一晚品嚐過,被煮過頭的美味的魚。
08:48
So I interrupted him. I said,
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所以我打斷他,我說:
08:50
"Miguel, what makes your fish taste so good?"
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"米格爾,你的魚為什麼那麼好吃?"
08:52
He pointed at the algae.
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他指向藻類,
08:54
"I know, dude, the algae, the phytoplankton,
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“我知道, 兄弟,藻類、浮游植物、
08:57
the relationships: It's amazing.
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生態關係,這些都很神奇,
09:00
But what are your fish eating?
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但是你餵魚吃什麼?
09:02
What's the feed conversion ratio?"
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飼料轉換率是多少?”
09:05
Well, he goes on to tell me
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然後,他繼續告訴我,
09:09
it's such a rich system
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這是一個很富饒的系統,
09:11
that the fish are eating what they'd be eating in the wild.
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這些魚吃的就是它們在野外吃的東西
09:14
The plant biomass, the phytoplankton,
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植物、浮游植物、
09:17
the zooplankton, it's what feeds the fish.
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浮游生物等,都是魚的飼料。
09:19
The system is so healthy,
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這個系統非常健康,
09:21
it's totally self-renewing.
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會進行自我更新,
09:23
There is no feed.
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不需要任何飼料。
09:26
Ever heard of a farm that doesn't feed its animals?
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有聽說過哪一個農場不需要餵動物飼料的嗎?
09:33
Later that day, I was driving around this property with Miguel,
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那天稍晚時,我和米格爾開著車在附近兜風,
09:35
and I asked him, I said, "For a place that seems so natural,
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我問他,“像這樣一個自然的地方,
09:39
unlike like any farm I'd ever been at,
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不像其它任何一個我曾經見過的農場,
09:44
how do you measure success?"
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你如何衡量成功?"
09:47
At that moment, it was as if
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就在那時,
09:50
a film director called for a set change.
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彷彿有一位電影導演突然要求改變場景,
09:52
And we rounded the corner
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我們轉過彎,
09:54
and saw the most amazing sight:
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看到最美的畫面,
09:56
thousands and thousands of pink flamingos,
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成千上萬的粉紅色火鶴,
09:59
a literal pink carpet for as far as you could see.
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就像一張粉紅色的地毯舖向遙遠的盡頭。
10:03
"That's success," he said.
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他說,“那就是成功。
10:06
"Look at their bellies, pink.
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看看他們的腹部,粉紅色的,
10:08
They're feasting."
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他們正在享受盛宴。“
10:10
Feasting? I was totally confused.
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盛宴?我不知道他在說什麼。
10:12
I said, "Miguel, aren't they feasting on your fish?"
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我說,“米格爾,他們的盛宴不正是你的魚嗎?”
10:14
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
10:16
"Yes," he said.
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“正是," 他說,
10:18
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
10:24
"We lose 20 percent of our fish
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“鳥類會吃掉我們20%的魚,
10:26
and fish eggs to birds.
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還有魚卵,
10:30
Well, last year, this property
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而且,去年這個漁場裡
10:32
had 600,000 birds on it,
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有60萬隻鳥,
10:34
more than 250 different species.
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有超過250種不同的種類。
10:36
It's become, today, the largest
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今天,這裡已經成為全歐洲
10:39
and one of the most important
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最大且最重要的
10:42
private bird sanctuaries in all of Europe."
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私人鳥類自然保護區之一。"
10:46
I said, "Miguel, isn't a thriving bird population
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我說,“米格爾,在養殖漁場裡,
10:49
like the last thing you want on a fish farm?"
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不是最不想見到這麼多鳥嗎?”
10:51
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
10:53
He shook his head, no.
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“不“,他搖搖頭,
10:55
He said, "We farm extensively,
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他說,“我們養殖很多生物,
10:58
not intensively.
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不是集中養殖某一種。
11:01
This is an ecological network.
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這是一個生態網絡,
11:04
The flamingos eat the shrimp.
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這些火鶴吃掉蝦子,
11:06
The shrimp eat the phytoplankton.
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蝦子吃浮游動物;
11:08
So the pinker the belly,
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所以他們的腹部愈粉紅,
11:10
the better the system."
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就代表這個生態越好。"
11:13
Okay, so let's review:
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好的,讓我們重新審視一下,
11:15
a farm that doesn't feed its animals,
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這個農場不需要餵食動物,
11:18
and a farm that measures its success
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它衡量成功的方式
11:21
on the health of its predators.
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是根據它的掠食者的健康狀態。
11:23
A fish farm, but also a bird sanctuary.
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一個漁場,同時也是個鳥類庇護所,
11:26
Oh, and by the way, those flamingos,
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喔,而且那些火鶴,
11:28
they shouldn't even be there in the first place.
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他們原先就不應該出現在那裡,
11:30
They brood in a town
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牠們的窩巢是在
11:32
150 miles away,
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240公里外的地方,
11:34
where the soil conditions
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那裡的土壤狀況
11:36
are better for building nests.
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較適合築巢,
11:38
Every morning, they fly
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他們每天早上
11:40
150 miles into the farm.
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都要飛行240公里來到這個漁場,
11:44
And every evening, they fly 150 miles back.
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到了晚上,再飛行240公里回家。
11:47
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
11:54
They do that because they're able to follow
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因為他們這樣才能
11:57
the broken white line
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順著A92號
11:59
of highway A92.
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高速公路的白線飛...
12:01
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
12:03
No kidding.
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這不是開玩笑。
12:05
I was imagining a "March of the Penguins" thing,
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我一直在腦海中想像類似企鵝行進的事,
12:08
so I looked at Miguel.
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我看著米格爾,
12:10
I said, "Miguel, do they fly
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我說,“米格爾,它們飛行240公里
12:12
150 miles to the farm,
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來到漁場,
12:14
and then do they fly
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然後它們晚上
12:16
150 miles back at night?
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再飛240公里回去嗎?
12:18
Do they do that for the children?"
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它們這麼做是為了孩子嗎?"
12:21
He looked at me like I had just quoted a Whitney Houston song.
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他看著我就像是我剛剛引用了惠特尼休斯頓的歌,
12:24
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
12:28
He said, "No; they do it because the food's better."
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他說,“不,他們這麼做是因為這裡的食物更好。”
12:31
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
12:33
I didn't mention the skin of my beloved fish,
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我還沒有提到我最愛的魚的皮吧?
12:41
which was delicious -- and I don't like fish skin;
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真的是很美味,但我以前不喜歡魚皮,
12:43
I don't like it seared, I don't like it crispy.
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我不喜歡烤的,也不喜歡脆的,
12:46
It's that acrid, tar-like flavor.
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魚皮有腥味,像柏油的味道,
12:50
I almost never cook with it.
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我從不把它和魚一起烹煮。
12:53
Yet, when I tasted it at that restaurant in southern Spain,
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但是,當我在西班牙南部的那個餐館嚐到它的時候,
12:56
it tasted not at all like fish skin.
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嚐起來一點都不像是魚皮,
12:59
It tasted sweet and clean,
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它嚐起來微甜而且乾淨,
13:02
like you were taking a bite of the ocean.
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就像你嚐了一口海洋自然的味道一樣。
13:05
I mentioned that to Miguel, and he nodded.
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我向米格爾提到我的想法,他點點頭,
13:07
He said, "The skin acts like a sponge.
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他說,“魚皮的作用就像是海綿,
13:09
It's the last defense before anything enters the body.
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它是阻止物質進入到體內的最後的防線,
13:12
It evolved to soak up impurities."
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它的作用是吸收雜質,"
13:14
And then he added,
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他繼續說,
13:16
"But our water has no impurities."
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“但是我們的水沒有雜質。”
13:22
OK. A farm that doesn't feed its fish,
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好的。這個漁場不需要餵養它的魚,
13:26
a farm that measures its success
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它衡量成功的方式,
13:29
by the success of its predators.
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是看它的掠食者是否成功生存。
13:31
And then I realized when he says,
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然後我發現,當他說
13:33
"A farm that has no impurities,"
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這個漁場沒有雜質時,
13:36
he made a big understatement,
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他說得其實太保守了,
13:38
because the water that flows through that farm
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因為在漁場中流過的水,
13:40
comes in from the Guadalquivir River.
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是來自高達爾克維爾河,
13:43
It's a river that carries with it
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那條河中含有
13:45
all the things that rivers tend to carry these days:
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現在所有的河流都有的成份,
13:48
chemical contaminants,
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像是化學污染物及
13:50
pesticide runoff.
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農藥等,
13:52
And when it works its way through the system
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當河水進入這個系統,
13:55
and leaves,
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之後再離開時,
13:57
the water is cleaner than when it entered.
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水質會變得比來時更乾淨。
13:59
The system is so healthy, it purifies the water.
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這個系統很健康,它可以過濾水,
14:03
So, not just a farm that doesn't feed its animals,
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所以,這個漁場不只是不餵食動物,
14:05
not just a farm that measures its success
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也不只是根據掠食者的健康狀況
14:08
by the health of its predators,
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來衡量它的成功,
14:10
but a farm that's literally a water purification plant --
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它還是一個污水淨化廠,
14:16
and not just for those fish,
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不只是為那些魚淨化水質,
14:19
but for you and me as well.
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更是為了你和我。
14:21
Because when that water leaves, it dumps out into the Atlantic.
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因為當水離開這裡時,它會流入大西洋,
14:26
A drop in the ocean, I know,
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雖然我知道那是滄海一粟,
14:28
but I'll take it, and so should you,
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但是我很重視它,而且你們也應該重視,
14:31
because this love story,
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因為這個愛的故事,
14:35
however romantic,
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不但浪漫,
14:37
is also instructive.
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而且有教育意義。
14:39
You might say it's a recipe
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你也許會說它是
14:41
for the future of good food,
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未來美食的食譜,
14:43
whether we're talking about bass or beef cattle.
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不管我們是在說鱸魚還是牛肉,
14:47
What we need now is
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我們現在需要的是,
14:49
a radically new conception of agriculture,
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一個全新的農業概念,
14:52
one in which the food actually tastes good.
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能夠培養出真正美食的農業概念。
14:54
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
14:56
(Applause)
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(掌聲)
15:02
But for a lot people,
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但是對很多人來說,
15:04
that's a bit too radical.
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這有點激進。
15:07
We're not realists, us foodies;
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我們美食家不是現實主義者,
15:09
we're lovers.
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我們是美食愛好者。
15:11
We love farmers' markets,
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我們愛農夫們自己籌組的市場,
15:13
we love small family farms,
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我們愛小型的家庭農場,
15:16
we talk about local food,
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我們談論本地的食物,
15:18
we eat organic.
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我們吃有機食品。
15:21
And when you suggest these are the things
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而當你提到這樣做
15:23
that will ensure the future of good food,
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才能保證未來有美好的食物時,
15:27
someone, somewhere stands up and says,
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某個地方的某人就會站起來說,
15:29
"Hey guy, I love pink flamingos,
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"嘿,我愛粉紅色的火鶴,
15:33
but how are you going to feed the world?"
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但是你打算怎麼填飽世人的肚子?"
15:36
How are you going to feed the world?
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怎麼填飽世人的肚子?
15:39
Can I be honest?
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我可以坦白的說嗎?
15:41
I don't love that question.
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我不喜歡你的問題,
15:44
No, not because we already produce
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不,不是因為我們已經生產了
15:46
enough calories to more than feed the world.
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遠遠超出我們這個世界需要的卡路里,
15:49
One billion people will go hungry today.
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而今天仍有十億人在餓著肚子。
15:52
One billion -- that's more than ever before --
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十億--史上最多的人數,
15:56
because of gross inequalities in distribution,
341
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根本原因在於總體上的分配不平衡,
15:59
not tonnage.
342
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不是數量多寡的問題。
16:02
Now, I don't love this question because it's determined the logic
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我不喜歡這個問題,是因為他假定了一個
16:04
of our food system for the last 50 years.
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存在於過去五十年的食物系統的邏輯,
16:07
Feed grain to herbivores,
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就是把穀物餵給食草動物,
16:10
pesticides to monocultures, chemicals to soil,
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在單一品種作物上施打農藥,在土壤上灑化學藥劑,
16:12
chicken to fish,
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拿鷄餵魚...
16:15
and all along agribusiness
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然後各類農業開發企業
16:18
has simply asked,
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就會問:
16:20
"If we're feeding more people more cheaply,
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“如果我們用更便宜的方法養活更多的人,
16:22
how terrible could that be?"
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有什麼不對的呢?”
16:25
That's been the motivation,
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這就是動機,
16:27
it's been the justification:
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也是合理的藉口,
16:29
it's been the business plan
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這已經成了美國農業的
16:32
of American agriculture.
355
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營運計畫。
16:34
We should call it what it is:
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我們應該為它正名,
16:36
a business in liquidation,
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這是快要倒閉的生意,
16:39
a business that's quickly eroding
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這種生意快速地侵蝕了我們的
16:42
ecological capital that makes that very production possible.
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生態資本,只為了大量生產。
16:45
That's not a business,
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那不是生意,
16:47
and it isn't agriculture.
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也不是農業。
16:49
Our breadbasket is threatened today,
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今日我們的存糧正受到嚴重威脅,
16:52
not because of diminishing supply,
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不是因為供給的遞減,
16:54
but because of diminishing resources.
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而是因為資源的遞減。
16:57
Not by the latest combine and tractor invention,
365
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存糧的增加不能只靠最新發明的收割機與拖拉機,
17:00
but by fertile land;
366
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而是要有肥沃的土壤;
17:02
not by pumps, but by fresh water;
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不能只靠幫浦,而是要有新鮮的水源;
17:05
not by chainsaws, but by forests;
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不能只靠電鋸,而是要有森林;
17:08
and not by fishing boats and nets, but by fish in the sea.
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不能只靠漁船和漁網,而是要有魚在海裡游。
17:11
Want to feed the world?
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怎麼填飽世人的肚子?
17:13
Let's start by asking: How are we going to feed ourselves?
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我們該先問:怎麼填飽自己的肚子?
17:17
Or better: How can we create conditions
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或者更進一步問,怎麼建立一種環境,
17:20
that enable every community
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可以讓每一個物種
17:23
to feed itself?
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養活自己?
17:25
(Applause)
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(掌聲)
17:32
To do that,
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要做到那樣,
17:34
don't look at the agribusiness model for the future.
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就不要指望未來還沿用現在的農業模型,
17:37
It's really old, and it's tired.
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它已經過時了,而且很疲乏了,
17:39
It's high on capital, chemistry and machines,
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它過度依賴資金、化學和機械,
17:43
and it's never produced anything really good to eat.
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而且它生產不出來真正好的食物。
17:48
Instead, let's look to the ecological model.
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相反的,讓我們看看生態系統,
17:52
That's the one that relies on two billion years
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這個系統已經實地演練過
17:55
of on-the-job experience.
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20億年了。
17:58
Look to Miguel,
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看看米格爾,
18:00
farmers like Miguel.
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像米格爾這樣的農民,
18:02
Farms that aren't worlds unto themselves;
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他們的農場不是只屬於自己,
18:05
farms that restore instead of deplete;
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他們能自我恢復,而不單只是消耗資源而已;
18:10
farms that farm extensively
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他們養殖很多物種,
18:12
instead of just intensively;
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而不是集中養殖單一物種;
18:14
farmers that are not just producers,
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農民不再只是生產者,
18:17
but experts in relationships.
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而是生態關係專家,
18:19
Because they're the ones
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因為他們同時也是
18:21
that are experts in flavor, too.
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美味的專家。
18:24
And if I'm going to be really honest,
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如果要我說實話,
18:26
they're a better chef than I'll ever be.
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他們是比我更好的廚師。
18:29
You know, I'm okay with that,
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我可以接受他們比我優秀,
18:32
because if that's the future of good food, it's going to be delicious.
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因為如果未來的優質食物是如此,那肯定是非常美味的。
18:35
Thank you.
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謝謝大家。
18:37
(Applause)
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(掌聲)
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