Christien Meindertsma: How pig parts make the world turn

譯者: Pin-hsien Kuo 審譯者: Adrienne Lin

Hello. I would like to start my talk

嗨，在進入主題之前，我想

with actually two questions, and the first one is:

先問兩個問題，第一個是：

How many people here actually eat pig meat?

在座有多少人吃豬肉？

Please raise your hand --

請舉手。

oh, that's a lot.

噢，不少呢。

And how many people have actually seen

那在座有多少人

a live pig producing this meat?

在去年看過

In the last year?

活生生的豬？

In the Netherlands -- where I come from --

在荷蘭，我的祖國，

you actually never see a pig, which is really strange,

你根本看不到豬。這是很奇怪的

because, on a population of 16 million people,

因為我們人口1600萬，

we have 12 million pigs.

有1200萬隻豬。

And well, of course, the Dutch can't eat all these pigs.

當然荷蘭人吃不了這麼多豬。

They eat about one-third, and the rest is exported

他們大約吃三分之一，其他的都出口

to all kinds of countries in Europe and the rest of the world.

到歐洲各國和世界各地。

A lot goes to the U.K., Germany.

很多賣到英國、德國。

And what I was curious about --

我好奇的是

because historically, the whole pig would be used up until the last bit

在過去，豬的身體各部位都會被使用到

so nothing would be wasted --

一丁點都不浪費。

and I was curious to find out

我想知道

if this was actually still the case.

現在是否還是如此。

And I spent about three years researching.

我花了約三年的時間研究

And I followed this one pig

追隨一隻豬

with number "05049,"

編號「05049」

all the way up until the end

從頭到尾

and to what products it's made of.

也跟隨以牠製出的產品。

And in these years, I met all kinds people

在這三年，我遇上各式各樣的人，

like, for instance, farmers and butchers, which seems logical.

譬如養豬的和屠夫，這挺合理的。

But I also met aluminum mold makers,

但我也結識了鋁模製造業者，

ammunition producers

軍火製造業者

and all kinds of people.

和各式各樣的人。

And what was striking to me

我訝異的是

is that the farmers actually had no clue

養豬的完全不知道

what was made of their pigs,

他們的豬被拿去做成什麼，

but the consumers -- as in us --

而我們這些消費者

had also no idea

也都不知道

of the pigs being in all these products.

這麼多產品的成份裡都含有豬。

So what I did is,

所以我做了一件事，

I took all this research

我把整個研究

and I made it into a -- well, basically it's a product catalog of this one pig,

整理成一份這隻豬的產品目錄，

and it carries a duplicate of his ear tag

然後再書背黏上一模一樣的

on the back.

耳標。

And it consists of seven chapters --

裡面一共有七章。

the chapters are skin, bones, meat, internal organs,

分別是皮膚、骨頭、肉、內臟、

blood, fat and miscellaneous.

血、脂肪和其他。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

In total,

全部

they weigh 103.7 kilograms.

一共重103.7公斤。

And to show you how often you actually

為了讓各位知道你們

meet part of this pig in a regular day,

每天到底有多常用到豬，

I want to show you some images of the book.

我想給你們看一些書裡的圖。

You probably start the day with a shower.

你們每天做的第一件事可能是洗澡。

So, in soap, fatty acids

而肥皂裡的脂肪酸

made from boiling pork bone fat

就來自沸騰而出的豬骨脂

are used as a hardening agent,

它用做硬化劑，

but also for giving it a pearl-like effect.

同時給它一種類似珍珠的質感。

Then if you look around you in the bathroom,

再來，你們如果環視浴室，

you see lots more products

可以看見許多產品

like shampoo, conditioner,

諸如洗髮精、護髮乳

anti-wrinkle cream, body lotion,

除皺霜、身體乳液、

but also toothpaste.

還有牙膏。

Then, so, before breakfast,

所以光是早餐前

you've already met the pig so many times.

你們就和這隻豬接觸了這麼多次。

Then, at breakfast, the pig that I followed,

接著吃早餐的時候還是有豬，

the hairs off the pig or proteins from the hairs off the pig

豬毛，或者說從豬毛提煉出的蛋白質

were used as an improver of dough.

用做麵團的"優化劑"。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Well, that's what the producer says: it's "improving the dough,

這就是製造商說的：「它優化了。」

of course."

你們當然都了解的。

In low-fat butter, or actually in many low-fat products,

低脂奶油，其實很多低脂產品，

when you take the fat out, you actually take the taste and the texture out.

把脂肪抽出，就等於也抽掉了味道和口感。

So what they do is they put gelatin back in,

所以他們把動物膠放回去

in order to retain the texture.

好維持口感。

Well, when you're off to work, under the road or under the buildings that you see,

接著你在上班的路上，可以看到馬路和建築物底下

there might very well be cellular concrete,

可能鋪著微孔混凝土，

which is a very light kind of concrete

它非常輕

that's actually got proteins from bones inside

其中也含有從骨骼提取的蛋白質，

and it's also fully reusable.

而且這也完全可以回收利用。

In the train brakes -- at least in the German train brakes --

火車的煞車，至少是德國的火車煞車，

there's this part of the brake

其中有一部分

that's made of bone ash.

是以骨灰做成的。

And in cheesecake and all kinds of desserts,

還有在起士蛋糕和各種甜點，

like chocolate mousse, tiramisu, vanilla pudding,

像巧克力慕絲、提拉米蘇、香草布丁

everything that's cooled in the supermarket,

所有在超市裡冷藏的

there's gelatin to make it look good.

都含有明膠，好讓它美觀。

Fine bone china -- this is a real classic.

精緻骨瓷，這是個經典。

Of course, the bone in fine-bone china

當然，精緻骨瓷裡的骨粉

gives it its translucency

讓它呈現半透明

and also its strength,

卻又強韌。

in order to make these really fine shapes,

才可以做出這些美麗的形狀，

like this deer.

好比這隻鹿。

In interior decorating, the pig's actually quite there.

室內裝潢也少不了豬。

It's used in paint for the texture,

它賦予油漆質感，

but also for the glossiness.

和光澤。

In sandpaper, bone glue

砂紙裡含有骨膠

is actually the glue between the sand and the paper.

它就是砂和紙中間的膠。

And then in paintbrushes,

還有，油漆刷的毛

hairs are used because, apparently, they're very suitable for making paintbrushes

也來自豬，顯然它很適合做刷子，

because of their hard-wearing nature.

因為夠耐用。

I was not planning on showing you any meat

我沒打算給你們看肉，

because, of course, half the book's meat

因為這書有一半都跟肉有關，

and you probably all know what meats they are.

你們大概也都知道，自己吃得是什麼肉。

But I didn't want you to miss out on this one,

但我想跟大家介紹的是這個

because this, well, it's called "portion-controlled meat cuts."

它叫「份量控制肉塊」。

And this is actually sold

可以在超級市場

in the frozen area of the supermarket.

的冷凍區買到。

And what it is -- it's actually steak.

它其實是牛排。

So, this is sold as cow,

是以牛肉的名稱出售，

but what happens when you slaughter a cow --

但是在工業養殖場

at least in industrial factory farming --

宰牛的時候，

they have all these little bits of steak left

最後都會剩下小小塊的牛肉

that they can't actually sell as steak,

也沒辦法當成牛排賣，

so what they do is they glue them all together

所以他們乾脆把碎塊黏起來

with fibrin from pig blood

用的是豬血裡的纖維蛋白

into this really large sausage,

做成大型香腸，

then freeze the sausage, cut it in little slices

再把它冷凍，切片

and sell those as steak again.

然後再把他們當牛排賣出。

And this also actually happens with tuna and scallops.

鮪魚和干貝也是一樣。

So, with the steak, you might drink a beer.

吃牛排，你可能會配啤酒。

In the brewing process, there's lots of cloudy elements in the beer,

釀造過程中啤酒會產生很多混濁的物質，

so to get rid of these cloudy elements,

為了去除這些雜質，

what some companies do

有些公司採取的方式是

is they pour the beer through a sort of gelatin sieve

將它倒入一種明膠過濾網

in order to get rid of that cloudiness.

來去除雜質。

This actually also goes for wine as well as fruit juice.

葡萄酒和果汁也採用同樣的流程

There's actually a company in Greece

希臘有一家公司

that produces these cigarettes

生產一種香煙，

that actually contain hemoglobin from pigs in the filter.

濾嘴含有豬的血紅素。

And according to them,

依照他們的說法，

this creates an artificial lung in the filter.

這讓濾嘴成為人工肺。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

So, this is actually a healthier cigarette.

所以這是比較健康的香煙。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Injectable collagen -- or, since the '70s, collagen from pigs --

注射式膠原，70年代後稱為「豬的膠原」

has been used for injecting into wrinkles.

用來注射到皺紋裡。

And the reason for this is that pigs are actually quite close to human beings,

這是因為豬和人類蠻相近的，

so the collagen is as well.

膠原也一樣。

Well, this must be the strangest thing I found.

這個大概是我找到最詭異的東西。

This is a bullet coming from

這是顆子彈

a very large ammunition company in the United States.

美國一家很大的軍火公司生產的。

And while I was making the book,

而我在寫這本書時，

I contacted all the producers of products

我聯繫了所有產品的製造商，

because I wanted them to send me the real samples

因為我希望他們給我寄些

and the real specimens.

實物樣品和標本。

So I sent this company an email

於是我寄了電郵給這家公司

saying, "Hello. I'm Christien. I'm doing this research.

寫著：「您好，我是克莉絲丁。我在做一個研究。

And can you send me a bullet?"

您是否能寄一顆子彈給我？」

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

And well, I didn't expect them to even answer my email.

我並不期待他們會回信。

But they answered

但他們回了，

and they said, "Why, thank you for your email. What an interesting story.

信裡寫著：「謝謝您的電郵。多麼有趣的故事。

Are you in anyway related to the Dutch government?"

請問您和荷蘭官方有什麼關係嗎？」

I thought that was really weird,

我感到詫異，

as if the Dutch government sends emails to anyone.

荷蘭政府會寄電郵才奇怪。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

So, the most beautiful thing I found --

我找到最美麗的東西

at least what I think is the most beautiful -- in the book, is this heart valve.

至少在我心目中最漂亮的，是心臟辦膜。

It's actually a very low-tech

這東西既低科技

and very high-tech product at the same time.

又高科技。

The low-tech bit is that it's literally a pig's heart valve

說低科技是因為，這實質上就是豬的心臟辦膜

mounted in the high-tech bit,

鑲嵌上一個高科技玩意：

which is a memory metal casing.

記憶金屬套管。

And what happens is this can be implanted into a human heart

然後它可以植入人的心臟

without open heart surgery.

不用開心臟手術。

And once it's in the right spot,

一旦放到了正確的位置，

they remove the outer shell,

他們就移除外殼，

and the heart valve, well, it gets this shape

心臟辦膜就變成這形狀，

and at that moment it starts beating, instantly.

那一刻開始心臟馬上就跳動了。

It's really a sort of magical moment.

那真的是神奇的一刻。

So this is actually a Dutch company,

這是家荷蘭公司。

so I called them up, and I asked,

我打電話給他們問說：

"Can I borrow a heart valve from you?"

「我可不可以跟你們借一個心臟辦膜？」

And the makers of this thing were really enthusiastic.

而那些製作的人充滿熱情。

So they were like, "Okay, we'll put it in a jar for you with formalin,

他們說：「好阿，我們把它放進裝有福馬林的罐子裡，

and you can borrow it."

借給妳。」

Great -- and then I didn't hear from them for weeks,

好極了。但接下來的幾星期，都沒有回音，

so I called,

所以我又打去

and I asked, "What's going on with the heart valve?"

問說：「心臟辦膜發生了什麼事嗎？」

And they said, "Well the director of the company

他們說：「公司的主管

decided not to let you borrow this heart valve,

決定不借妳心臟辦膜，

because want his product

因為他不要公司的產品

to be associated with pigs."

與豬有關聯。」

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Well, the last product from the book that I'm showing you is renewable energy --

我要給你們看的最後一樣產品是再生能源

actually, to show that my first question,

事實上它可以證明我最初提的問題，

if pigs are still used up until the last bit, was still true.

豬是否會被完全利用。沒錯。

Well it is, because everything that can't be used for anything else

因為只要是用不到的東西

is made into a fuel

都拿來當做燃料

that can be used as renewable energy source.

可以作為再生能源。

In total, I found 185 products.

我總共找到185樣產品。

And what they showed me

從中得到的結論是

is that, well, firstly,

第一，

it's at least to say odd

奇怪的很

that we don't treat these pigs

我們並不把豬

as absolute kings and queens.

當做國王和皇后來對待。

And the second, is that we actually don't have a clue

第二，我們其實真的不知道

of what all these products that surround us are made of.

身邊有這麼多產品是由什麼做出的。

And you might think I'm very fond of pigs,

你們可能覺得我對豬情有獨鍾，

but actually -- well, I am a little bit --

可能真有一點

but I'm more fond

但我更喜歡的是

of raw materials in general.

各式各樣的原料。

And I think that, in order to take better care

而且我認為，為了讓我們產品的來源

of what's behind our products --

能獲得更好的照顧－

so, the livestock, the crops, the plants,

比如家畜、榖物、植物

the non-renewable materials,

不可回收的材料、

but also the people that produce these products --

還有製造這些產品的人們等－

the first step would actually be to know that they are there.

不可或缺的第一步，是意識到他們的存在。

Thank you very much.

謝謝。

(Applause)

（掌聲）