Johanna Blakely: Lessons from fashion's free culture

202,526 views ・ 2010-05-25

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Prevoditelj: Senzos Osijek Recezent: Romana Perković
00:16
I heard this amazing story about Miuccia Prada.
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Čula sam ovu nevjerojatnu priču o Miuccii Prada.
00:18
She's an Italian fashion designer.
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Ona je talijanska modna dizajnerica.
00:20
She goes to this vintage store in Paris
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Ona ode sa svojom prijateljicom u neku trgovinu sa starim
00:22
with a friend of hers.
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stvarima u Parizu.
00:24
She's rooting around, she finds this one jacket by Balenciaga --
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Švrlja naokolo. Pronađe jednu Balenciaginu jaknu.
00:28
she loves it.
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Svidi joj se.
00:30
She's turning it inside out.
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Okrene ju naopačke.
00:32
She's looking at the seams. She's looking at the construction.
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Gleda šavove. Gleda konstrukciju.
00:35
Her friend says, "Buy it already."
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Prijateljica joj kaže: „Daj ju već jednom kupi.“
00:37
She said, "I'll buy it, but I'm also going to replicate it."
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Ona kaže: „Kupit ću ju, ali ću također napraviti i kopiju.“
00:42
Now, the academics in this audience may think,
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Sada bi profesori u ovoj publici mogli pomisliti:
00:45
"Well, that sounds like plagiarism."
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„Pa to zvuči kao plagijat.“
00:47
But to a fashionista, what it really is
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Ali modno osviještenoj osobi
00:49
is a sign of Prada's genius:
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to je znak Pradinih genijalaca,
00:51
that she can root through the history of fashion
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da mogu prošvrljati kroz povijest mode
00:53
and pick the one jacket
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i odabrati jednu jaknu
00:55
that doesn't need to be changed by one iota,
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na kojoj ne treba mijenjati ni mrvicu
00:57
and to be current and to be now.
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i da može biti aktualna i da može biti upravo sada.
01:00
You might also be asking whether it's possible
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Također biste se mogli zapitati je li moguće
01:03
that this is illegal for her to do this.
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da je sve to što ona radi ilegalno.
01:06
Well, it turns out that it's actually not illegal.
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Pa, izgleda da zapravo nije ilegalno.
01:09
In the fashion industry, there's very little
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U modnoj industriji postoji vrlo slaba
01:11
intellectual property protection.
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zaštita umne imovine.
01:14
They have trademark protection,
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Imaju zaštitu zaštitnog znaka,
01:16
but no copyright protection
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ali nemaju zaštitu autorskih prava
01:18
and no patent protection to speak of.
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i nema zaštite patenta o kojoj bi se govorilo.
01:21
All they have, really, is trademark protection,
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Sve što zapravo imaju je zaštita zaštitnog znaka.
01:23
and so it means that anybody
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A to znači da bilo tko
01:25
could copy any garment
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može kopirati bilo koji odjevni predmet
01:27
on any person in this room
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na bilo kojoj osobi u ovoj prostoriji
01:29
and sell it as their own design.
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i prodati ga kao svoj vlastiti dizajn.
01:31
The only thing that they can't copy
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Jedina stvar koju ne mogu kopirati
01:33
is the actual trademark label
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je zapravo etiketa sa zaštitnim znakom
01:35
within that piece of apparel.
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unutar tog komada odjeće.
01:37
That's one reason that you see logos
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To je jedan od razloga zašto vidite logo
01:39
splattered all over these products.
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nabacan posvuda po tim proizvodima.
01:41
It's because it's a lot harder for knock-off artists
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To je stoga što je mnogo teže onima koji kopiraju
01:43
to knock off these designs
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kopirati te dizajne
01:45
because they can't knock off the logo.
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zato što ne mogu kopirati logo.
01:48
But if you go to Santee Alley, yeah.
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Ali ako idete u Santee Alley, mogu.
01:51
(Laughter) Well, yeah.
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Pa, da.
01:53
Canal Street, I know.
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Canal Street, znam.
01:55
And sometimes these are fun, right?
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I ponekad su zabavni, istina.
01:57
Now, the reason for this, the reason that the fashion industry
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A sad, razlog za to, razlog zbog kojega modna industrija
02:00
doesn't have any copyright protection
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nema nikakvu zaštitu autorskih prava
02:02
is because the courts decided long ago
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je zato što su sudovi davno odlučili
02:05
that apparel is too utilitarian
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da je odjeća preutilitarina
02:07
to qualify for copyright protection.
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da bi se kvalificirala za zaštitu autorskih prava.
02:09
They didn't want a handful of designers
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Nisu željeli da nekolicina dizajnera
02:11
owning the seminal building blocks of our clothing.
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posjeduje monopol u izradi naše odjeće.
02:14
And then everybody else would have to license this cuff or this sleeve
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I onda bi svi ostali morali imati dozvolu za ovu manžetu ili ovaj rukav
02:17
because Joe Blow owns it.
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jer ga posjeduje Joe Blow.
02:21
But too utilitarian? I mean is that the way you think of fashion?
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Ali preutilitarno? Mislim, zar je to način na koji se misli o modi?
02:24
This is Vivienne Westwood. No!
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Ovo je Vivienne Westwood. Ne.
02:27
We think of it as maybe too silly,
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Mislimo o tome kao o nečemu što je presmiješno,
02:29
too unnecessary.
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previše nepotrebno.
02:31
Now, those of you who are familiar with the logic
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A sada, oni od vas koji su upoznati s logikom
02:33
behind copyright protection --
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iza zaštite autorskih prava,
02:35
which is that without ownership, there is no incentive to innovate --
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a to je da bez vlasništva nema poticaja za inovacijom,
02:38
might be really surprised
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bi se mogli ugodno iznenaditi
02:40
by both the critical success of the fashion industry
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s ove dvije stvari – kritičkim uspjehom modne industrije
02:43
and the economic success of this industry.
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i ekonomskim uspjehom te industrije.
02:46
What I'm going to argue today is that
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Ono o čemu ću raspravljati danas je to
02:48
because there's no copyright protection
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da su zbog nedostatka zaštite autorskih prava
02:50
in the fashion industry,
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u modnoj industriji,
02:52
fashion designers have actually been able to elevate
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modni dizajneri zapravo dobili mogućnost uzdignuti
02:55
utilitarian design,
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utilitarni dizajn,
02:57
things to cover our naked bodies,
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stvari koje pokrivaju naša gola tijela,
02:59
into something that we consider art.
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u nešto što smatramo umjetnošću.
03:01
Because there's no copyright protection
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Zbog nepostojanja zaštite autorskih prava
03:03
in this industry,
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u toj industriji
03:05
there's a very open and creative
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postoji vrlo otvorena i kreativna
03:07
ecology of creativity.
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ekologija kreativnosti.
03:09
Unlike their creative brothers and sisters,
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Za razliku od svojih kreativnih braće i sestara
03:11
who are sculptors or photographers
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koji su kipari ili fotografi
03:14
or filmmakers or musicians,
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ili redatelji ili glazbenici,
03:17
fashion designers can sample
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modni dizajneri mogu uzimati uzorke
03:19
from all their peers' designs.
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od svojih kolega dizajnera.
03:21
They can take any element from any garment
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Mogu uzeti bilo koji dio sa bilo kojeg odjevnog predmeta
03:23
from the history of fashion
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iz modne povijesti
03:25
and incorporate it into their own design.
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i umetnuti ga u svoj vlastiti dizajn.
03:27
They're also notorious for riffing off of the zeitgeist.
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Oni su također poznati po, znate, tome što „dorađuju“ duh vremena.
03:30
And here, I suspect,
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I ovdje su pretpostavljam
03:32
they were influenced by the costumes in Avatar.
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bili pod utjecajem kostima iz Avatara.
03:35
Maybe just a little.
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Možda malo.
03:37
Can't copyright a costume either.
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Također ne možete zaštititi kostim autorskim pravom.
03:39
Now, fashion designers have
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Modni dizajneri imaju
03:41
the broadest palette imaginable
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široku imaginarnu paletu
03:43
in this creative industry.
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u ovoj kretivnoj industriji.
03:45
This wedding dress here
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Ova vjenčanica ovdje
03:47
is actually made of sporks,
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zapravo je napravljena od nečega između žlice i vilice.
03:50
and this dress is actually made of aluminum.
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A ova haljina zapravo je napravljena od aluminija.
03:53
I've heard this dress actually sort of sounds like wind chimes
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Čula sam da ova haljina zvuči poput zvonaca na vjetru
03:55
as they walk through.
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dok u njoj hodate.
03:57
So, one of the magical side effects
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Dakle, jedna od magičnih nuspojava
03:59
of having a culture of copying,
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u kulturi kopiranja,
04:01
which is really what it is,
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što ovo zaista jest,
04:03
is the establishment of trends.
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je osnivanje trendova.
04:05
People think this is a magical thing. How does it happen?
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Ljudi misle da je to magična stvar. Kako se događa?
04:07
Well, it's because it's legal for people to copy one another.
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Pa, to je zato što je legalno da ljudi kopiraju jedni druge.
04:10
Some people believe that
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Neki ljudi vjeruju da
04:12
there are a few people at the top of the fashion food chain
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postoji nekoliko ljudi na vrhu modnog hranidbenog lanca
04:15
who sort of dictate to us what we're all going to wear,
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koji na neki način diktiraju što ćemo nositi.
04:18
but if you talk to any designer at any level,
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Ali ako porazgovarate s bilo kojim dizajnerom na bilo kojem nivou,
04:20
including these high-end designers,
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uključujući ove poznate dizajnere,
04:22
they always say
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uvijek će vam reći
04:24
their main inspiration comes from the street:
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da im glavna inspiracija dolazi s ulice
04:26
where people like you and me remix and match
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gdje ljudi poput vas i mene miješaju i spajaju
04:28
our own fashion looks.
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svoje modne izglede
04:30
And that's where they really get a lot of their
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i to je ono gdje oni zaista dobiju mnogo vlastite
04:32
creative inspiration,
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kreativne inspiracije.
04:35
so it's both a top-down and a bottom-up kind of industry.
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Dakle, to je obostran način industrije – odozgora prema dolje i odozdol prema gore.
04:39
Now, the fast fashion giants have
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Ogromni lanci krivotvoritelja
04:41
probably benefited the most
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vjerojatno su najviše profitirali
04:43
from the lack of copyright protection in the fashion industry.
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od manjka zaštite autorskih prava u modnoj industriji.
04:46
They are notorious for knocking off high-end designs
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Poznati su po kopiranju poznatih dizajna
04:49
and selling them at very low prices.
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i prodaje istih po veoma niskim cijenama.
04:51
And they've been faced with a lot of lawsuits,
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I suočeni su s mnogo sudskih tužbi,
04:54
but those lawsuits are usually not won by fashion designers.
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ali u tim tužbama najčešće ne pobjeđuju modni dizajneri.
04:57
The courts have said over and over again, "You don't need
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Sudovi su stalno govorili: „Ne trebate
04:59
any more intellectual property protection."
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nikakvu veću zaštitu intelektualne imovine.“
05:02
When you look at copies like this,
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Kada pogledate kopije poput ovih,
05:05
you wonder: How do the luxury high-end brands
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kao da se zapitate, kako luksuzni poznati brendovi
05:07
remain in business?
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uopće opstaju u poslu?
05:09
If you can get it for 200 bucks, why pay a thousand?
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Ako možete istu stvar nabaviti za 200 dolara, tko bi platio tisuću?
05:12
Well, that's one reason we had a conference here at USC a few years ago.
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Pa, iz tog razloga smo prije nekoliko godina ovdje na U.S.C.-u imali sjednicu.
05:15
We invited Tom Ford to come --
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Pozvali smo Toma Forda.
05:17
the conference was called, "Ready to Share:
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Sjednica se zvala „Spremni podijeliti:
05:19
Fashion and the Ownership of Creativity" --
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Moda i kreativnost vlasništva“.
05:22
and we asked him exactly this question.
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I pitali smo ga isto ovo pitanje.
05:24
Here's what he had to say.
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Evo što nam je rekao.
05:26
He had just come off a successful stint as the lead designer at Gucci,
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Upravo se povukao s uspješnog mjesta vodećeg dizajnera u Gucci-ju,
05:29
in case you didn't know.
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u slučaju da niste znali.
05:31
Tom Ford: And we found after much research
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Tom Ford: I nakon mnogo istraživanja
05:34
that -- actually not much research, quite simple research --
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saznali smo da, zapravo ne nakon mnogo istraživanja, nakon jednostavnog istraživanja,
05:36
that the counterfeit customer was not our customer.
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da kupac koji kupuje falsifikat nije bio naš kupac.
05:39
Johanna Blakley: Imagine that.
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Johanna Blakley: Zamislite.
05:41
The people on Santee Alley
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Ljudi koji kupuju u Santee Alley-u
05:43
are not the ones who shop at Gucci.
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nisu oni koji kupuju u Gucci-ju.
05:45
(Laughter)
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(Smijeh)
05:48
This is a very different demographic.
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To je drugo područje.
05:52
And, you know, a knock-off is never the same
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I znate, kopija nikada nije ista
05:55
as an original high-end design,
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poput originalnog poznatog dizajna,
05:58
at least in terms of the materials; they're always made of cheaper materials.
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barem u smislu materijala, ovi su uvijek napravljeni od jeftinijih materijala.
06:01
But even sometimes a cheaper version
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Ali ponekad čak u jeftinijoj verziji
06:04
can actually have some charming aspects,
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možete imati nekih šarmantnih gledišta,
06:06
can breathe a little extra life into a dying trend.
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možete unijeti malo više života u umirući trend.
06:10
There's lots of virtues of copying.
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Postoji mnogo vrlina u kopiranju.
06:12
One that a lot of cultural critics have pointed to
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Jedna koju su mnogi kulturni kritičari istaknuli
06:15
is that we now have
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je da sada imamo
06:17
a much broader palette
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mnogo širu paletu
06:19
of design choices to choose from than we ever have before,
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modnog odabira za izabrati nego što smo imali ikada prije.
06:22
and this is mainly because of the fast fashion industry, actually.
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I to je uglavnom zbog brze modne industrije.
06:25
And this is a good thing. We need lots of options.
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A to je dobra stvar. Treba nam mnogo opcija.
06:27
Fashion, whether you like it or not,
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Moda vam, voljeli je ili ne,
06:29
helps you project who you are to the world.
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pomaže da se prikažete svijetu onakvima kakvi jeste.
06:33
Because of fast fashion,
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Zbog brze mode,
06:35
global trends actually get established much more quickly than they used to.
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globalni su se trendovi uspostavili mnogo brže nego prije.
06:38
And this, actually, is good news to trendsetters;
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I ovo su zapravo dobre vijesti za trendsetere.
06:41
they want trends to be set
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Oni žele da trendovi budu postavljeni
06:43
so that they can move product.
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tako da mogu micati proizvod.
06:46
For fashionistas,
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Za modno osviještenu osobu,
06:48
they want to stay ahead of the curve.
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oni žele biti ispred krivulje.
06:50
They don't want to be wearing what everybody else is wearing.
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Ne žele nositi ono što svi nose.
06:53
And so, they want to move on to the next trend
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I na taj način žele krenuti dalje na novi trend
06:56
as soon as possible.
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što je brže moguće.
06:58
I tell you, there is no rest for the fashionable.
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Kažem vam, nema odmora za modno osviještene.
07:01
Every season, these designers have to struggle
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Svake sezone ovi dizajneri moraju se boriti
07:03
to come up with the new fabulous idea that everybody's going to love.
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s novim fantastičnim idejama koje će svi voljeti.
07:06
And this, let me tell you,
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I ovo je, da vam kažem,
07:08
is very good for the bottom line.
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veoma dobro za donju liniju.
07:11
Now of course, there's a bunch of effects
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A sada naravno, postoji mnogo efekata
07:13
that this culture of copying has
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koje ova kultura kopiranja
07:15
on the creative process.
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ima u kreativnom procesu.
07:17
And Stuart Weitzman is a very successful shoe designer.
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I Stuart Weitzman je veoma uspješan dizajner obuće.
07:19
He has complained a lot about people copying him,
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Žalio se kako ga mnogo ljudi kopira.
07:22
but in one interview I read,
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Ali u jednom intervjuu koji sam pročitala,
07:24
he said it has really forced him to up his game.
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rekao je, znate, to ga je zaista prisililo na ovu igru.
07:27
He had to come up with new ideas,
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Smislio je nove ideje,
07:29
new things that would be hard to copy.
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nove stvari koje će biti teško kopirati.
07:31
He came up with this Bowden-wedge heel
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Smislio je Bowden klinastu petu
07:34
that has to be made out of steel or titanium;
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koja mora biti napravljena od čelika ili titana.
07:36
if you make it from some sort of cheaper material,
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Ako je napravite od nekog jeftinijeg materijala,
07:38
it'll actually crack in two.
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zapravo će puknuti na dva dijela.
07:40
It forced him to be a little more innovative. (Music)
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To ga je prisililo da bude inovativniji.
07:43
And that actually reminded me
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I to me zapravo podsjetilo
07:45
of jazz great, Charlie Parker.
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na velikana jazza Charlieja Parkera.
07:47
I don't know if you've heard this anecdote, but I have.
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Ne znam jeste li čuli za ovu anegdotu, ali ja jesam.
07:50
He said that one of the reasons he invented bebop
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Rekao je da je jedan od razloga što je izmislio bebop (inačica jazza)
07:53
was that he was pretty sure
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taj što je bio prilično siguran
07:55
that white musicians wouldn't be able to replicate the sound. (Laughter)
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da glazbenici koji su bijelci neće biti u stanju replicirati zvuk.
08:01
He wanted to make it too difficult to copy,
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Želio je da zvuči preteško za kopiranje.
08:05
and that's what fashion designers are doing all the time.
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I to je ono što modni dizajneri rade cijelo vrijeme.
08:07
They're trying to put together
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Pokušavaju smisliti izgled
08:09
a signature look, an aesthetic
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s potpisom, istančan,
08:11
that reflects who they are.
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da pokazuje ono što jesu.
08:13
When people knock it off, everybody knows
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Kada ljudi kopiraju, svi znaju
08:16
because they've put that look out on the runway,
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da su ostavili trag na pisti,
08:18
and it's a coherent aesthetic.
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a to je dosljedna istančanost.
08:22
I love these Gallianos.
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Volim ove Gallianice
08:24
Okay, we'll move on. (Laughter)
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Ok, nastavimo.
08:26
This is not unlike the world of comedy.
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To nije puno drukčije od svijeta komedije.
08:29
I don't know if you know that jokes
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Ne znam znate li da i šale
08:31
also can't be copyright protected.
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također mogu biti zaštićene autorskim pravom.
08:33
So when one-liners were really popular,
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Kada su šale u obliku jedne rečenice bile veoma popularne
08:36
everybody stole them from one another.
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svi su ih krali jedni od drugih.
08:38
But now, we have a different kind of comic.
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Ali sada imamo drugačiju vrstu komedije.
08:40
They develop a persona,
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Ona izgrađuje osobu,
08:42
a signature style, much like fashion designers.
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ima stilski potpis, poput modnih dizajnera.
08:45
And their jokes,
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I njihove šale,
08:47
much like the fashion designs by a fashion designer,
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poput modnih dizajna modnih dizajnera,
08:49
really only work within that aesthetic.
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zaista funkcioniraju samo unutar te istančanosti.
08:51
If somebody steals a joke
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Ako netko ukrade šalu
08:53
from Larry David, for instance,
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na primjer od Larry-ja Davida-a,
08:55
it's not as funny.
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ona nije više tako smiješna.
08:57
Now, the other thing that fashion designers have done
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A sad, druga stvar je ono što modni dizajneri rade
08:59
to survive in this culture of copying
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da bi preživjeli u ovoj kulturi kopiranja,
09:01
is they've learned how to copy themselves.
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a to je da su naučili kopirati sami sebe.
09:03
They knock themselves off.
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Sami sebe kopiraju.
09:05
They make deals with the fast fashion giants
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Naprave ugovore s krivotvoriteljima
09:08
and they come up with a way to sell their product
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i smisle način na koji bi prodali proizvod
09:10
to a whole new demographic:
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na potpuno novom području,
09:12
the Santee Alley demographic.
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području Santee Alley.
09:14
Now, some fashion designers will say,
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Sada, neki modni dizajneri će reći:
09:17
"It's only in the United States that we don't have any respect.
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„Jedino u SAD-u nema poštovanja prema nama.
09:20
In other countries there is protection
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U ostalim zemljama postoji zaštita
09:22
for our artful designs."
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za naše vješte dizjane.“
09:25
But if you take a look at the two other biggest markets in the world,
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Ali ako pogledate ostala dva najveća tržišta na svijetu
09:27
it turns out that the protection that's offered
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ispada da je ponuđena zaštita
09:30
is really ineffectual.
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zaista neuspješna.
09:32
In Japan, for instance, which I think is the third largest market,
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Na primjer, u Japanu koji je, mislim, treće najveće tržište na svijetu,
09:35
they have a design law; it protects apparel,
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imaju zakon dizajna koji štiti odjevni predmet,
09:38
but the novelty standard is so high,
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ali je standard noviteta tako visok
09:40
you have to prove that your garment has never existed before,
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da morate dokazati da vaš odjevni predmet nikada prije nije postojao.
09:43
it's totally unique.
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To je totalno jedinstveno.
09:45
And that's sort of like
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I to je na neki način
09:47
the novelty standard for a U.S. patent,
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poput standarda noviteta za patent u SAD-u
09:49
which fashion designers never get --
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koji modni dizjaneri nikad ne dobiju
09:51
rarely get here in the states.
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ili veoma rijetko dobiju ovdje u SAD-u.
09:53
In the European Union, they went in the other direction.
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U Europskoj su Uniji otišli u drugom smjeru.
09:56
Very low novelty standard,
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Veoma je nizak standard noviteta,
09:58
anybody can register anything.
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svatko može registrirati bilo što.
10:00
But even though it's the home of the fast fashion industry
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Ali iako je to dom brze modne industrije
10:02
and you have a lot of luxury designers there,
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i tamo imate mnogo luksuznih dizajnera,
10:04
they don't register their garments, generally,
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oni obično ne registriraju svoje odjevne predmete
10:07
and there's not a lot of litigation.
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i nema mnogo sudskih parnica.
10:09
It turns out it's because the novelty standard is too low.
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Ispada da je to zato što je standard noviteta prenizak.
10:12
A person can come in and take somebody else's gown,
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Osoba može doći i uzeti nečiju haljinu,
10:15
cut off three inches from the bottom,
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odrezati tri centimetra odozdo,
10:18
go to the E.U. and register it as a new, original design.
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otići u EU i registrirati to kao nov, originalan dizajn.
10:21
So, that does not stop the knock-off artists.
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Dakle, to ne zaustavlja umjetnike u kopiranju.
10:23
If you look at the registry, actually,
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Ako zapravo pogledate u registar,
10:25
a lot of the registered things in the E.U.
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mnogo registriranih stvari u EU su
10:27
are Nike T-shirts
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Nike majice
10:29
that are almost identical to one another.
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koje su gotovo identične jedna drugoj.
10:32
But this has not stopped Diane von Furstenberg.
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Ali to nije zaustavilo Dianu von Furstenberg.
10:34
She is the head of
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Ona je šefica
10:36
the Council of Fashion Designers of America,
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Vijeća modnih dizajnera Amerike
10:39
and she has told her constituency that
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i rekla je svojoj izbornoj jedinici da
10:41
she is going to get copyright protection
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planira nabaviti zaštitu autorskih prava
10:44
for fashion designs.
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za modne dizajnere.
10:46
The retailers have kind of quashed this notion though.
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Prodavači na malo su nekako doduše poništili ovu ideju.
10:48
I don't think the legislation is going anywhere,
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Ne mislim da će zakonodavstvo igdje doći.
10:50
because they realized it is so hard
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Zato što uviđaju da je veoma teško
10:53
to tell the difference between a pirated design
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naći razliku između kopiranog dizajna
10:55
and something that's just part of a global trend.
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i nečega što je dio globalnog trenda.
10:58
Who owns a look?
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Tko posjeduje izgled?
11:00
That is a very difficult question to answer.
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Na to je pitanje veoma teško odgovoriti.
11:02
It takes lots of lawyers and lots of court time,
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Potrebno je mnogo odvjetnika i mnogo sudskog vremena.
11:05
and the retailers decided that would be way too expensive.
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A trgovci na malo odlučili su da bi to bilo preskupo.
11:10
You know, it's not just the fashion industry
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Znate, nije samo modna industrija
11:12
that doesn't have copyright protection.
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ta koja nema zaštitu autorskih prava.
11:14
There's a bunch of other industries that don't have copyright protection,
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Postoji hrpa drugih industrija koje nemaju zaštitu autorskih prava
11:17
including the food industry.
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uključujući i prehrambenu industriju.
11:19
You cannot copyright a recipe
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Ne možete zaštititi autorskim pravom recept
11:21
because it's a set of instructions, it's fact,
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zato što je to niz uputa, to je činjenica.
11:24
and you cannot copyright the look and feel
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I ne možete zaštititi autorskim pravom izgled i osjećaj
11:26
of even the most unique dish.
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čak ni najposebnijeg jela.
11:29
Same with automobiles.
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Ista stvar je s automobilima.
11:31
It doesn't matter how wacky they look or how cool they look,
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Nije bitno kako ludo ili super izgledaju,
11:34
you cannot copyright the sculptural design.
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ne možete zaštititi autorsko pravo kiparskog dizajna.
11:37
It's a utilitarian article, that's why.
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To je svakodnevni, sveprisutni artikl, eto zašto.
11:40
Same with furniture,
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Ista stvar je s namještajem.
11:42
it's too utilitarian.
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Preutilitaran je.
11:45
Magic tricks, I think they're instructions, sort of like recipes:
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Magični trikovi, mislim da su upute, poput recepata.
11:48
no copyright protection.
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Nema zaštite autorskih prava.
11:50
Hairdos, no copyright protection.
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Frizure, nemaju zaštitu autorskog prava.
11:52
Open source software, these guys decided
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Softveri otvorenog dizajna su odlučili
11:54
they didn't want copyright protection.
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da ne žele zaštitu autorskih prava.
11:56
They thought it'd be more innovative without it.
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Mislili su da će biti inovativniji bez toga.
11:59
It's really hard to get copyright for databases.
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Veoma je teško dobiti zaštitu autorskih prava za bazu podataka.
12:02
Tattoo artists, they don't want it; it's not cool.
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Tatoo majstori to ne žele, to nije cool.
12:05
They share their designs.
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Oni dijele dizajnerske šale,
12:08
Jokes, no copyright protection.
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bez zaštite autorskih prava.
12:10
Fireworks displays,
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Vatrometi.
12:12
the rules of games,
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Pravila igara.
12:14
the smell of perfume: no.
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Miris parfema, ne.
12:17
And some of these industries may seem
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I neke od ovih industrija bi vam se mogle činiti
12:19
sort of marginal to you,
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rubne,
12:21
but these are the gross sales
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ali imaju bruto prodaju
12:24
for low I.P. industries,
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za niske IP industrije,
12:26
industries with very little copyright protection,
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industrije s veoma malom zaštitom autorskih prava.
12:28
and there's the gross sales of
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A tu su bruto prodaje
12:30
films and books.
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filmova i knjiga.
12:32
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
12:35
It ain't pretty.
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Nije li to divno.
12:37
(Applause)
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(Pljesak)
12:39
So you talk to people in the fashion industry
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Dakle, pričate s ljudima iz modne industrije
12:41
and they're like, "Shhh!
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i oni kažu: „Pssst!
12:43
Don't tell anybody
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Nemoj nikom reći da
12:45
we can actually steal from each other's designs.
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zapravo krademo dizajne jedni drugima.
12:47
It's embarrassing."
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To je sramotno.“
12:49
But you know what? It's revolutionary,
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Ali znate što, to je revolucionarno.
12:51
and it's a model that a lot of other industries --
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I to je model o kojemu mnoge druge industrije,
12:54
like the ones we just saw with the really small bars --
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poput onih koje smo vidjeli u veoma malim kafićima,
12:57
they might have to think about this.
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možda moraju razmisliti o tome,
12:59
Because right now, those industries with a lot of copyright protection
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zato što upravo sada te industrije s mnogo zaštite autorskih prava
13:02
are operating in an atmosphere
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rade u atmosferi
13:04
where it's as if they don't have any protection,
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u kojoj kao da i nemaju zaštitu.
13:07
and they don't know what to do.
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I ne znaju što da učine.
13:11
When I found out that there are a whole bunch of industries
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Kada sam otkrila da postoji hrpa industrija
13:14
that didn't have copyright protection,
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koje nemaju zaštitu autorskih prava
13:16
I thought, "What exactly is the underlying logic?
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pomislila sam, što je točno osnovna logika?
13:19
I want a picture." And the lawyers do not provide a picture,
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Želim sliku, a odvjetnici ne osiguravaju sliku.
13:22
so I made one.
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Pa sam je sama napravila.
13:24
These are the two main
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Ovo su dvije glavne
13:27
sort of binary oppositions within the logic of copyright law.
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vrste binarnih opozicija s logikom zakona zaštite autorskih prava.
13:30
It is more complex than this, but this will do.
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Mnogo je složenije od ovog, ali poslužit će.
13:33
First: Is something an artistic object?
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Prvo, je li nešto umjetnički predmet?
13:36
Then it deserves protection.
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Onda zaslužuje zaštitu.
13:38
Is it a utilitarian object?
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Je li utilitarni predmet?
13:40
Then no, it does not deserve protection.
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Onda ne, ne zaslužuje zaštitu.
13:42
This is a difficult, unstable binary.
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To je teška, nestabilna binarnost.
13:45
The other one is: Is it an idea?
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Druga je, je li ideja?
13:48
Is it something that needs to
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Je li to nešto što treba slobodno
13:50
freely circulate in a free society?
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kružiti u slobodnom društvu?
13:52
No protection.
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Nema zaštite.
13:54
Or is it a physically fixed
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Ili je fizički fiksirana
13:56
expression of an idea:
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ekspresija ideje,
13:58
something that somebody made
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nešto što je netko napravio
14:00
and they deserve to own it for a while and make money from it?
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i zaslužuje posjedovati neko vrijeme i zaraditi novac od toga.
14:03
The problem is that digital technology
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Problem je to što je digitalna tehnologija
14:05
has completely subverted the logic
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potpuno oborila logiku
14:07
of this physically fixed, expression
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ove prirodno fiksirane ekspresije
14:09
versus idea concept.
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napram idejnog koncepta.
14:12
Nowadays,
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U današnje vrijeme,
14:14
we don't really recognize a book
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ne prepoznajemo knjigu
14:16
as something that sits on our shelf
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kao nešto što stoji na našoj polici
14:18
or music as something that is
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ili glazbu kao nešto što je
14:20
a physical object that we can hold.
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prirodni predmet koji možemo držati.
14:22
It's a digital file.
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To je digitalna datoteka.
14:24
It is barely tethered to any sort of
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Jedva da je povezano s bilo kakvom
14:26
physical reality in our minds.
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prirodnom realnošću u našim umovima.
14:28
And these things, because we can copy and transmit them so easily,
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I te stvari, zato što ih tako lako možemo kopirati i prenositi
14:31
actually circulate within our culture
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zapravo cirkuliraju unutar naše kulture
14:34
a lot more like ideas
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više poput ideja
14:36
than like physically instantiated objects.
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nego poput fizičkih predmeta.
14:39
Now, the conceptual issues are truly profound
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Pojmovni problemi su se istinski utemeljili
14:42
when you talk about creativity
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kada se priča o kreativnosti
14:44
and ownership
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i vlasništvu
14:46
and, let me tell you, we don't want to leave this just to lawyers to figure out.
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i da vam kažem, ne želimo ovo samo ostaviti odvjetnicima da to riješe.
14:49
They're smart.
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Oni su pametni.
14:51
I'm with one. He's my boyfriend, he's okay.
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Ja sam s jednim. Dečko mi je. Ok je.
14:54
He's smart, he's smart.
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Pametan je. Pametan je.
14:56
But you want an interdisciplinary team of people
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Ali želite interdisclipliniran tim ljudi
14:58
hashing this out,
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da to iskopaju,
15:00
trying to figure out: What is the kind of ownership model,
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shvate koji je način vlasničkog modela
15:03
in a digital world,
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u digitalnom svijetu
15:05
that's going to lead to the most innovation?
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koji će voditi do najviše inovacija.
15:07
And my suggestion is that
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I moj prijedlog je da bi
15:09
fashion might be a really good place
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moda zaista mogla biti dobro mjesto
15:11
to start looking for a model
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da se krene tražiti model
15:13
for creative industries in the future.
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za kreativnu industriju u budućnosti.
15:16
If you want more information about this research project,
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Ako želite više podataka o ovom istraživačkom projektu,
15:19
please visit our website: it's ReadyToShare.org.
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molim vas posjetite našu internet stranicu, readytoshare.org.
15:23
And I really want to thank Veronica Jauriqui
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I zaista želim zahvaliti Veronici Jauriqui
15:25
for making this very fashionable presentation.
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što je napravila ovu modnu prezentaciju.
15:27
Thank you so much. (Applause)
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Mnogo vam hvala.
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