How tsunamis work - Alex Gendler

8,634,091 views ใƒป 2014-04-24

TED-Ed


ืื ื ืœื—ืฅ ืคืขืžื™ื™ื ืขืœ ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื‘ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ืœืžื˜ื” ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ืคืขื™ืœ ืืช ื”ืกืจื˜ื•ืŸ.

ืชืจื’ื•ื: Ido Dekkers ืขืจื™ื›ื”: Tal Dekkers
00:07
In 479 BC, when Persian soldiers besieged
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ื‘ 479 ืœืคื ื™ ื”ืกืคื™ืจื”, ื›ืฉื”ื—ื™ื™ืœื™ื ื”ืคืจืกื™ื ืฆืจื•
00:10
the Greek city of Potidaea,
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ืขืœ ื”ืขื™ืจ ื”ื™ื•ื•ื ื™ืช ืคื•ื˜ื™ื“ืื”,
00:12
the tide retreated much farther than usual,
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ื”ืฉืคืœ ื ืกื•ื’ ื”ืจื‘ื” ื™ื•ืชืจ ืžื›ืจื’ื™ืœ,
00:14
leaving a convenient invasion route.
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ื•ื”ืฉืื™ืจ ื ืชื™ื‘ ืคืœื™ืฉื” ื ื•ื—.
00:17
But this wasn't a stroke of luck.
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ืื‘ืœ ื–ื” ืœื ื”ื™ื” ืžื–ืœ.
00:19
Before they had crossed halfway,
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ืœืคื ื™ ืฉื”ืกืคื™ืงื• ืœื—ืฆื•ืช ื—ืฆื™ ืžื”ื“ืจืš,
00:21
the water returned in a wave higher than anyone had ever seen,
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ื”ืžื™ื ื—ื–ืจื• ื‘ื’ืœ ื’ื‘ื•ื” ื™ื•ืชืจ
ืžืžื” ืฉืžื™ืฉื”ื• ืื™ ืคืขื ืจืื”,
00:24
drowning the attackers.
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ื•ื”ื˜ื‘ื™ืข ืืช ื”ืชื•ืงืคื™ื.
00:26
The Potiidaeans believed they had been saved
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ื”ืคื•ื˜ื™ื“ืื ื™ื ื”ืืžื™ื ื• ืฉื”ื ื ื™ืฆืœื•
00:29
by the wrath of Poseidon.
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ืขืœ ื™ื“ื™ ื–ืขืžื• ืฉืœ ืคื•ืกื™ื“ื•ืŸ.
00:30
But what really saved them
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ืื‘ืœ ืžื” ืฉื‘ืืžืช ื”ืฆื™ืœ ืื•ืชื ื”ื™ื” ื›ื ืจืื”
00:32
was likely the same phenomenon that has destroyed countless others:
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ืื•ืชื” ืชื•ืคืขื” ืฉื”ืฉืžื™ื“ื” ืื—ืจื™ื ืจื‘ื™ื ืžืกืคื•ืจ:
00:35
a tsunami.
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ืฆื•ื ืืžื™.
00:36
Although tsunamis are commonly known as tidal waves,
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ืœืžืจื•ืช ืฉืฆื•ื ืืžื™ ื™ื“ื•ืข ืœืจื•ื‘ ื›ื’ืœ ื’ืื•ืช,
00:39
they're actually unrelated to the tidal activity caused
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ื”ื ืœืžืขืฉื” ืœื ืงืฉื•ืจื™ื ืœืคืขื™ืœื•ืช ืฉืœ ื”ื’ืื•ืช ืฉื ื’ืจืžืช
00:42
by the gravitational forces of the Sun and Moon.
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ืขืœ ื™ื“ ื›ื•ื—ื•ืช ื”ืžืฉื™ื›ื” ืฉืœ ื”ืฉืžืฉ ื•ื”ื™ืจื—.
00:45
In many ways, tsunamis are just larger versions of regular waves.
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ื‘ื”ืจื‘ื” ื“ืจื›ื™ื, ืฆื•ื ืืžื™ ื”ื•ื ืคืฉื•ื˜ ื’ืจืกื” ื’ื“ื•ืœื” ื™ื•ืชืจ
ืฉืœ ื’ืœื™ื ืจื’ื™ืœื™ื.
00:49
They have a trough and a crest,
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ื™ืฉ ืœื”ื ืืคื™ืง ื•ืฉื™ื,
00:51
and consist not of moving water,
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ื•ื”ื ืœื ืขืฉื•ื™ื™ื ืžืžื™ื ื ืขื™ื,
00:53
but the movement of energy through water.
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ืืœื ืžืชื ื•ืขืช ื”ืื ืจื’ื™ื” ื“ืจืš ื”ืžื™ื.
00:56
The difference is in where this energy comes from.
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ื”ื”ื‘ื“ืœ ื”ื•ื ืžืื™ืคื” ืžื’ื™ืขื” ื”ืื ืจื’ื™ื”.
00:58
For normal ocean waves, it comes from wind.
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ืœื’ืœื™ ื™ื ืจื’ื™ืœื™ื,
ื”ื™ื ืžื’ื™ืขื” ืžื”ืจื•ื—.
01:01
Because this only affects the surface, the waves are limited in size and speed.
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ืžืคื ื™ ืฉื–ื” ืจืง ืžืฉืคื™ืข ืขืœ ืคื ื™ ื”ืฉื˜ื—,
ื”ื’ืœื™ื ืžื•ื’ื‘ืœื™ื ื‘ื’ื•ื“ืœ ื•ืžื”ื™ืจื•ืช.
01:05
But tsunamis are caused by energy originating underwater,
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ืื‘ืœ ืฆื•ื ืืžื™ ื ื’ืจืžื™ื ืขืœ ื™ื“ื™ ืื ืจื’ื™ื”
ืฉืžืงื•ืจื” ืžืชื—ืช ืœืžื™ื,
01:09
from a volcanic eruption,
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ืžื”ืชืคืจืฆื•ืช ื’ืขืฉื™ืช,
01:10
a submarine landslide,
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ืžืคื•ืœืช ืชืช ืžื™ืžื™ืช,
01:12
or most commonly, an earthquake on the ocean floor
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ืื• ื”ื›ื™ ื ืคื•ืฅ,
ืžืจืขื™ื“ืช ืื“ืžื” ืขืœ ืงืจืงืขื™ืช ื”ืื•ืงื™ื™ื ื•ืก
01:15
caused when the tectonic plates of the Earth's surface slip,
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ืฉื ื’ืจืžืช ื›ืฉืœื•ื—ื•ืช ื˜ืงื˜ื•ื ื™ื™ื ืฉืœ ืงืจื•ื ื›ื“ื•ืจ ื”ืืจืฅ ืžื—ืœื™ืงื™ื,
01:18
releasing a massive amount of energy into the water.
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ื•ืžืฉื—ืจืจื™ื ื›ืžื•ื™ื•ืช ืื ืจื’ื™ื” ืขืฆื•ืžื•ืช ืœืชื•ืš ื”ืžื™ื.
01:21
This energy travels up to the surface,
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ื”ืื ืจื’ื™ื” ื”ื–ื• ื ืขื” ืœืคื ื™ ื”ืฉื˜ื—,
01:24
displacing water and raising it above the normal sea level,
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ื•ืžื ื™ืขื” ืžื™ื ื•ืžืจื™ืžื” ืื•ืชื ืžืขืœ
ื’ื•ื‘ื” ืคื ื™ ื”ื™ื ื”ืจื’ื™ืœ,
01:27
but gravity pulls it back down,
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ืื‘ืœ ื”ื›ื‘ื™ื“ื” ืžื•ืฉื›ืช ืื•ืชื ื—ื–ืจื” ืœืžื˜ื”,
01:29
which makes the energy ripple outwards horizontally.
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ืžื” ืฉื’ื•ืจื ืœืื ืจื’ื™ื” ืœื”ืชื’ืœื’ืœ ื”ื—ื•ืฆื” ืื•ืคืงื™ืช.
01:32
Thus, the tsunami is born,
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ื•ื›ืš, ืฆื•ื ืืžื™ ื ื•ืœื“,
01:34
moving at over 500 miles per hour.
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ื›ืฉื”ื•ื ื ืข ื‘ืžื”ื™ืจื•ืช ืฉืœ ื™ื•ืชืจ ืž 800 ืงื™ืœื•ืžื˜ืจ ื‘ืฉืขื”.
01:37
When it's far from shore, a tsunami can be barely detectable
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ื›ืฉื”ื•ื ืจื—ื•ืง ืžื”ื—ื•ืฃ,
ืฆื•ื ืืžื™ ื™ื›ื•ืœ ืœื”ื™ื•ืช ื‘ืงื•ืฉื™ ืžื•ืจื’ืฉ
01:40
since it moves through the entire depth of the water.
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ืžืื—ืจ ื•ื”ื•ื ื ืข ื“ืจืš ื›ืœ ืขื•ืžืง ื”ืžื™ื.
01:43
But when it reaches shallow water, something called wave shoaling occurs.
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ืื‘ืœ ื›ืฉื”ื•ื ืžื’ื™ืข ืœืžื™ื ืจื“ื•ื“ื™ื,
ืžืฉื”ื• ืฉื ืงืจื ื“ื—ื™ืกืช ื’ืœื™ื ืžืชืจื—ืฉ.
01:47
Because there is less water to move through,
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ืžืคื ื™ ืฉื™ืฉ ืคื—ื•ืช ืžื™ื ืœื ื•ืข ื“ืจื›ื,
01:49
this still massive amount of energy is compressed.
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ื”ื›ืžื•ืช ื”ืื“ื™ืจื” ืขื“ื™ื™ืŸ ืฉืœ ืื ืจื’ื™ื” ื ื“ื—ืกืช.
01:53
The wave's speed slows down,
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ืžื”ื™ืจื•ืช ื”ื’ืœ ืžืื™ื˜ื”,
01:55
while its height rises to as much as 100 feet.
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ื‘ืขื•ื“ ื”ื’ื•ื‘ื” ืขื•ืœื” ืขื“ 30 ืžื˜ืจ.
01:58
The word tsunami, Japanese for "harbor wave,"
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ื”ืžื™ืœื” ืฆื•ื ืืžื™,
ื™ืคื ื™ืช ืœ"ื’ืœ ืžืขื’ืŸ,"
02:01
comes from the fact that it only seems to appear near the coast.
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ืžื’ื™ืขื” ืžื”ืขื•ื‘ื“ื” ืฉื ืจืื” ืฉื”ื•ื ืžื•ืคื™ืข ืจืง
ืœื™ื“ ื—ื•ืคื™ื.
02:04
If the trough of a tsunami reaches shore first,
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ื›ืฉืืคื™ืง ื”ื’ืœ ืžื’ื™ืข ืœื—ื•ืฃ ืจืืฉื•ืŸ,
02:07
the water will withdraw farther than normal
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ื”ืžื™ื ื™ืชืจื—ืงื• ื™ื•ืชืจ ืžื›ืจื’ื™ืœ
02:09
before the wave hits,
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ืœืคื ื™ ืฉื”ื’ืœ ื™ืคื’ืข, ืžื” ืฉื™ื›ื•ืœ ืœื”ื™ื•ืช ืžืกื•ื›ืŸ ื‘ืื•ืคืŸ ืžื˜ืขื”.
02:11
which can be misleadingly dangerous.
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02:13
A tsunami will not only drown people near the coast,
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ืฆื•ื ืืžื™ ืœื ืจืง ื™ื˜ื‘ื™ืข ืื ืฉื™ื ืœื™ื“ ื—ื•ืฃ,
02:16
but level buildings and trees for a mile inland or more,
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ืืœื ื™ืฉื˜ื— ื‘ื ื™ื™ื ื™ื ื•ืขืฆื™ื ื›ืฉื ื™ ืงื™ืœื•ืžื˜ืจ ืื• ื™ื•ืชืจ ืคื ื™ืžื”,
02:19
especially in low-lying areas.
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ื‘ืขื™ืงืจ ื‘ืื–ื•ืจื™ื ืฉื˜ื•ื—ื™ื.
02:21
As if that weren't enough, the water then retreats,
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ื•ืื ื–ื” ืœื ืžืกืคื™ืง,
ื”ืžื™ื ื ืกื•ื’ื™ื,
02:24
dragging with it the newly created debris,
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ื•ืžื•ืฉื›ื™ื ืื™ืชื ื”ืจื™ืกื•ืช ืฉืจืง ื ื•ืฆืจื•,
02:27
and anything, or anyone, unfortunate enough
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ื•ื›ืœ ืžื”, ืื• ืžื™, ืฉืื™ืŸ ืœื• ืžื–ืœ
02:29
to be caught in its path.
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ืœื”ื™ื•ืช ื‘ื“ืจื›ื•.
02:31
The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami
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ื”ืฆื•ื ืืžื™ ื‘ืื•ืงื™ื™ื ื•ืก ื”ื”ื•ื“ื™ ื‘ 2004
02:33
was one of the deadliest natural disasters in history,
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ื”ื™ื” ืื—ื“ ืžืืกื•ื ื•ืช ื”ื˜ื‘ืข ื”ืงื˜ืœื ื™ื™ื ื‘ื”ืกื˜ื•ืจื™ื”,
02:36
killing over 200,000 people throughout South Asia.
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ื•ื”ืจื’ ื™ื•ืชืจ ืž 200,000 ื‘ื ื™ ืื“ื ื‘ืจื—ื‘ื™ ื“ืจื•ื ืืกื™ื”.
02:40
So how can we protect ourselves against this destructive force of nature?
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ืื– ืื™ืš ืื ื—ื ื• ื™ื›ื•ืœื™ื ืœื”ื’ืŸ ืขืœ ืขืฆืžื ื•
ืžืคื ื™ ื›ื•ื—ื• ื”ื”ืจืกื ื™ ืฉืœ ื”ื˜ื‘ืข?
02:44
People in some areas have attempted
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ืื ืฉื™ื ื‘ื›ืžื” ืื–ื•ืจื™ื ื ื™ืกื•
02:46
to stop tsunamis with sea walls, flood gates,
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ืœืขืฆื•ืจ ืฆื•ื ืืžื™ ืขื ื—ื•ืžื•ืช ื™ื, ืฉืขืจื™ ื”ืฆืคื”,
02:49
and channels to divert the water.
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ื•ืชืขืœื•ืช ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ื˜ื•ืช ืืช ื”ืžื™ื.
02:51
But these are not always effective.
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ืื‘ืœ ืืœื” ืœื ืชืžื™ื“ ื™ืขื™ืœื™ื.
02:52
In 2011, a tsunami surpassed the flood wall
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ื‘ 2011, ืฆื•ื ืืžื™ ืขืงืฃ ืืช ื—ื•ืžืช ื”ื”ืฆืคื”
02:56
protecting Japan's Fukushima Power Plant,
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ืฉื”ื’ื ื” ืขืœ ื”ื›ื•ืจ ื”ื’ืจืขื™ื ื™ ื‘ืคื•ืงื•ืฉื™ืžื”, ื™ืคืŸ,
02:58
causing a nuclear disaster
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ื•ื’ืจื ืœืืกื•ืŸ ื’ืจืขื™ื ื™ ื‘ื ื•ืกืฃ ืœืชื‘ื™ืขืช
03:00
in addition to claiming over 18,000 lives.
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ื—ื™ื™ื”ื ืฉืœ 18,000 ืื ืฉื™ื.
03:04
Many scientists and policy makers are instead focusing on early detection,
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ื”ืจื‘ื” ืžื“ืขื ื™ื ื•ืงื•ื‘ืขื™ ืžื“ื™ื ื™ื•ืช ืžื ืกื™ื ื‘ืžืงื•ื
ืœื”ืชืžืงื“ ื‘ื’ื™ืœื•ื™ ืžื•ืงื“ื,
03:08
monitoring underwater pressure and seismic activity,
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ืžื ื˜ืจื™ื ืœื—ืฆื™ื ืชืช ืžื™ืžื™ื™ื ื•ืคืขื™ืœื•ืช ืกื™ื™ืกืžื™ืช,
03:11
and establishing global communication networks
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ื•ืžืงื™ืžื™ื ืจืฉืช ืชืงืฉื•ืจืช ื‘ื™ืŸ ืœืื•ืžื™ืช
03:14
for quickly distributing alerts.
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ืœื”ืคืฆืช ื”ืื–ื”ืจื•ืช ื‘ืžื”ื™ืจื•ืช.
ื›ืฉื”ื˜ื‘ืข ื—ื–ืง ืžื“ื™ ืœืขืฆื™ืจื”,
03:16
When nature is too powerful to stop,
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03:18
the safest course is to get out of its way.
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ื”ื“ืจืš ื”ื›ื™ ื‘ื˜ื•ื—ื” ื”ื™ื ืœื–ื•ื– ืžื“ืจื›ื•.

Original video on YouTube.com
ืขืœ ืืชืจ ื–ื”

ืืชืจ ื–ื” ื™ืฆื™ื’ ื‘ืคื ื™ื›ื ืกืจื˜ื•ื ื™ YouTube ื”ืžื•ืขื™ืœื™ื ืœืœื™ืžื•ื“ ืื ื’ืœื™ืช. ืชื•ื›ืœื• ืœืจืื•ืช ืฉื™ืขื•ืจื™ ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ื”ืžื•ืขื‘ืจื™ื ืขืœ ื™ื“ื™ ืžื•ืจื™ื ืžื”ืฉื•ืจื” ื”ืจืืฉื•ื ื” ืžืจื—ื‘ื™ ื”ืขื•ืœื. ืœื—ืฅ ืคืขืžื™ื™ื ืขืœ ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื‘ืื ื’ืœื™ืช ื”ืžื•ืฆื’ื•ืช ื‘ื›ืœ ื“ืฃ ื•ื™ื“ืื• ื›ื“ื™ ืœื”ืคืขื™ืœ ืืช ื”ืกืจื˜ื•ืŸ ืžืฉื. ื”ื›ืชื•ื‘ื™ื•ืช ื’ื•ืœืœื•ืช ื‘ืกื ื›ืจื•ืŸ ืขื ื”ืคืขืœืช ื”ื•ื•ื™ื“ืื•. ืื ื™ืฉ ืœืš ื”ืขืจื•ืช ืื• ื‘ืงืฉื•ืช, ืื ื ืฆื•ืจ ืื™ืชื ื• ืงืฉืจ ื‘ืืžืฆืขื•ืช ื˜ื•ืคืก ื™ืฆื™ืจืช ืงืฉืจ ื–ื”.

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