Iwan Baan: Ingenious homes in unexpected places

翻译人员: Zheng Zhai 校对人员: Crystal Ye

Throughout my career, I've been fortunate enough

在我的职业生涯里，我非常幸运的

to work with many of the great

和很多著名的

international architects,

国际建筑师一起工作过，

documenting their work and observing

整理他们的工作，并观察

how their designs have the capacity

他们的设计是如何有能力

to influence the cities in which they sit.

去影响其所在的城市。

I think of new cities like Dubai

我想到了如迪拜一样的新城市

or ancient cities like Rome

或者像罗马一样的老城市

with Zaha Hadid's incredible MAXXI museum,

拥有扎哈·哈迪德不可思议的设计——21世纪国家艺术博物馆

or like right here in New York with the High Line,

或者像这里，高楼林立的纽约

a city which has been so much influenced

一个被摩天大楼的建筑

by the development of this.

深深影响的城市。

But what I find really fascinating

但是我发现最吸引我的是

is what happens when architects and planners leave

当这些城市的建筑师和规划者离开

and these places become appropriated by people,

人们开始使用这些地方时，城市将会发生怎样的变化

like here in Chandigarh, India,

比如印度的昌迪加尔

the city which has been completely designed

一个完全由建筑师 勒·柯布西耶

by the architect Le Corbusier.

设计的城市。

Now 60 years later, the city has been taken over

60年后的今天，这个城市已经被

by people in very different ways

居民以一种当初设计时不可设想的方式

from whatever perhaps intended for,

所使用，

like here, where you have the people

像这里

sitting in the windows of the assembly hall.

有人们坐在礼堂的窗户上。

But over the course of several years,

但是在这几年期间，

I've been documenting Rem Koolhaas's

我在记录雷姆·库哈斯

CCTV building in Beijing

设计的北京CCTV大楼

and the olympic stadium in the same city

和同一个城市里由赫尔佐格和德·梅隆设计的

by the architects Herzog and de Meuron.

奥运主体育场。

At these large-scale construction sites in China,

在这些中国的大型基建项目里，

you see a sort of makeshift camp

你可以看到一种临时的帐篷营地

where workers live during the entire building process.

是工人在整个施工期间居住的地方。

As the length of the construction takes years,

由于施工期需要多年的时间，

workers end up forming a rather rough-and-ready

工人最终形成一种非常原始和简单的

informal city, making for quite a juxtaposition

非常规城市，和他们正在建设的

against the sophisticated structures that they're building.

复杂结构的建筑并存。

Over the past seven years, I've been following

在过去的七年里，我一直在追随着

my fascination with the built environment,

我对建筑环境的兴趣，

and for those of you who know me, you would say

并且对你们当中了解我的人，你们会说

that this obsession has led me to live

这种痴迷使我

out of a suitcase 365 days a year.

一年365天提着行李生活

Being constantly on the move

一直四处奔波

means that sometimes I am able

意味着有时我可以

to catch life's most unpredictable moments,

抓住生活中最不可预测的时刻，

like here in New York

比如在纽约这里

the day after the Sandy storm hit the city.

在桑迪飓风袭击城市后的一天。

Just over three years ago,

正好在三年前，

I was for the first time in Caracas, Venezuela,

我第一次来到委内瑞拉的加拉加斯

and while flying over the city, I was just amazed

当飞机飞过城市上方时，我很惊讶于

by the extent to which the slums

这里的贫民窟

reach into every corner of the city,

已经遍布了城市的每个角落，

a place where nearly 70 percent of the population

一个百分之七十的居民

lives in slums,

生活在贫民窟里的地方，

draped literally all over the mountains.

贫民窟满山遍野的搭建着

During a conversation with local architects Urban-Think Tank,

在和当地的城市设计智库的谈话中，

I learned about the Torre David,

我了解到托雷·大卫

a 45-story office building which sits

一个45层高的办公楼，坐落在

right in the center of Caracas.

加拉加斯的中心。

The building was under construction

这个高楼一直在施工

until the collapse of the Venezuelan economy

直到90年代初委内瑞拉经济大崩盘

and the death of the developer in the early '90s.

并且设计者去世。

About eight years ago, people started moving

大概八年前，人们开始搬进

into the abandoned tower

被废弃的大楼里

and began to build their homes right in between

并开始在这个未完工的大楼的每个间隙里

every column of this unfinished tower.

搭建他们自己的房子。

There's only one little entrance to the entire building,

整座大楼只有一个小小的入口，

and the 3,000 residents come in and out

3000居民从这里

through that single door.

通过这一个门进出。

Together, the inhabitants created public spaces

居住者合力建立了公共空间

and designed them to feel more like a home

并设计德使这里多一点家的感觉

and less like an unfinished tower.

少一点烂尾楼的感觉。

In the lobby, they painted the walls and planted trees.

在大堂，他们粉刷了墙面，种植了树

They also made a basketball court.

他们还建了一个篮球场。

But when you look up closely,

但是当你近距离观察时，

you see massive holes where elevators

可以看到很多的洞，这是当初设计给电梯

and services would have run through.

和其它的服务设施。

Within the tower, people have come up

在大楼里，人们想出了

with all sorts of solutions

各种解决方案

in response to the various needs

以应对不同的需求

which arise from living in an unfinished tower.

由于居住在这个烂尾楼里。

With no elevators,

由于没有电梯

the tower is like a 45-story walkup.

大楼像个45层的步行高楼。

Designed in very specific ways

这群没有受过任何建筑和设计培训的居民

by this group of people

以一种独特的方式

who haven't had any education in architecture or design.

设计了大楼的使用。

And with each inhabitant finding their own

而当每个居住者发现他们自己

unique way of coming by,

独特的生活居住方式时，

this tower becomes like a living city,

这座大楼好像变成了一座居住的城市，

a place which is alive with micro-economies

一个伴随着微观的经济

and small businesses.

和小商户的地方。

The inventive inhabitants, for instance,

比如，这些有创造力的居住者

find opportunities in the most unexpected cases,

在最不可思议的情况下发现机遇，

like the adjacent parking garage,

比如毗邻的停车场

which has been reclaimed as a taxi route

被重新规划为一条出租车的路线

to shuttle the inhabitants up through the ramps

搭载居民通过坡道

in order to shorten the hike

以缩短到公寓的

up to the apartments.

爬坡的距离。

A walk through the tower

穿过大楼的一路上

reveals how residents have figured out

展现了居民是如何想出

how to create walls, how to make an air flow,

怎么搭建墙体，怎么让空气流通，

how to create transparency,

怎么让大楼更加透亮，

circulation throughout the tower,

大楼的循环系统，

essentially creating a home

尤其是创造一个

that's completely adapted

完全适应于

to the conditions of the site.

周围环境的家园。

When a new inhabitant moves into the tower,

当一个新的居住者搬进这座大楼，

they already have a roof over their head,

他们已经有一个可以遮盖的房顶，

so they just typically mark their space

所以他们通常只是使用

with a few curtains or sheets.

很小的窗帘和单子来突出他们的地方。

Slowly, from found materials, walls rise,

慢慢地，从现成的材料，高墙，

and people create a space out of any found objects

人们创造了一个从任何现成物体

or materials.

和材料搭建的空间。

It's remarkable to see the design decisions

看到他们的设计规划决定

that they're making,

很让人惊叹，

like when everything is made out of red bricks,

例如当所有东西都是红砖建的时候，

some residents will cover that red brick

一些居民会在红砖墙外覆盖上

with another layer of red brick-patterned wallpaper

另一层红砖样式的墙纸

just to make it a kind of clean finish.

只为了让它看上去有干净的感觉。

The inhabitants literally built up these homes

这些居住者真的是

with their own hands, and this labor of love

用他们的双手来搭建自己的房子，这种充满着爱的劳动

instills a great sense of pride

渗透出一种伟大的自豪感

in many families living in this tower.

充盈在很多住在这儿的家庭里。

They typically make the best out of their conditions,

他们特别是要尽最大可能利用他们周围的环境

and try to make their spaces look nice and homey,

来让他们的生活空间更温馨，更有家的感觉，

or at least up until as far as they can reach.

或者至少做到他们能尽的最大可能。

Throughout the tower, you come across

在大楼里，你可以找到

all kinds of services, like the barber,

各种各样的服务，比如理发店，

small factories, and every floor has

小铺子，每层都有

a little grocery store or shop.

小的食品杂货店和商店。

And you even find a church.

你甚至可以找到一个教堂。

And on the 30th floor, there is a gym

并且在30层有一个健身房

where all the weights and barbells

那里所有的器械和杠铃

are made out of the leftover pulleys

都是由剩下的滑轮制成的

from the elevators which were never installed.

这些滑轮是从那些没有安装的电梯上拿来的。

From the outside, behind this always-changing facade,

从外面，在这个不断变化的外墙后面，

you see how the fixed concrete beams

你可以看到固定的混凝土梁柱是如何

provide a framework for the inhabitants

为居民提供一个房屋框架

to create their homes

以便让他们以一种有机而直观的方式

in an organic, intuitive way

去搭建他们的房子

that responds directly to their needs.

来直接应对他们的需求。

Let's go now to Africa, to Nigeria,

让我们现在去看看非洲，尼日利亚，

to a community called Makoko,

来到一个叫马卡卡的住宅区

a slum where 150,000 people

一个居住着15万人的贫民窟

live just meters above the Lagos Lagoon.

住在仅在拉各斯湖上面几米的地方。

While it may appear to be a completely chaotic place,

虽然它看上去好像是一个很混乱的地方，

when you see it from above, there seems to be

但当你从上往下看，那里好像存在

a whole grid of waterways and canals

一个由水路和运河形成的格子网

connecting each and every home.

连接着每家每户。

From the main dock, people board long wooden canoes

从主码头，人们坐上长木做的小木舟

which carry them out to their various homes and shops

带他们前往在很大一片区域里的

located in the expansive area.

各种房屋和商店

When out on the water, it's clear

当进入水域时，很明显

that life has been completely adapted

生活已经完全融入

to this very specific way of living.

这种特殊条件下的生活方式。

Even the canoes become variety stores

甚至木筏子也变成各种各样的小店

where ladies paddle from house to house,

女人们划着木舟从一家到另一家，

selling anything from toothpaste to fresh fruits.

卖着从牙膏到新鲜水果的各种东西。

Behind every window and door frame,

在每一扇窗户和门框背后，

you'll see a small child peering back at you,

你都会看到有小孩子在背后盯着你

and while Makoko seems to be packed with people,

虽然马卡卡看上去到处都是人，

what's more shocking is actually

但更让人吃惊的是实际上

the amount of children pouring out of every building.

每座房屋里面拥有的孩子的数量。

The population growth in Nigeria,

尼日利亚的人口增长，

and especially in these areas like Makoko,

尤其是在像马卡卡这样的区域，

are painful reminders

痛苦地提醒着人们

of how out of control things really are.

生育失控后带来的结果。

In Makoko, very few systems

在马卡卡，只有非常少的生活系统

and infrastructures exist.

和基础设施存在

Electricity is rigged and freshest water

电是被垄断的，且干净的水

comes from self-built wells throughout the area.

来自于这片区域里自己建造的井。

This entire economic model

整个经济模式

is designed to meet a specific way of living

是为了应对特殊的水上生活方式而设计的

on the water, so fishing and boat-making

所以捕鱼和造船

are common professions.

是普遍的职业。

You'll have a set of entrepreneurs

这里还有一系列的商户

who have set up businesses throughout the area,

在这片区域建立经营着自己的生意，

like barbershops, CD and DVD stores,

比如理发店，CD和DVD商店，

movie theaters, tailors, everything is there.

电影院，裁缝铺，和其它的一切。

There is even a photo studio

这是甚至有一个照相馆

where you see the sort of aspiration

让你看到一种期望

to live in a real house or to be associated

去住在真正的大房子里或者和一个遥远的地方

with a faraway place, like that hotel in Sweden.

产生联系，比如瑞典的旅馆。

On this particular evening,

在这个特别的夜晚，

I came across this live band

我遇到这个

dressed to the T in their coordinating outfits.

穿着舞台表演衣服的现场演奏乐队。

They were floating through the canals

他们在河道里漂着

in a large canoe with a fitted-out generator

坐在一个装了可发光的大船里，

for all of the community to enjoy.

让所有居民欣赏他们的演出。

By nightfall, the area becomes almost pitch black,

深夜降临后，这片区域变得漆黑一片，

save for a small lightbulb

除了一些小的电灯

or a fire.

或者火光。

What originally brought me to Makoko

最初使我来到马卡卡的原因

was this project from a friend of mine,

是一个我朋友的做的项目，

Kunlé Adeyemi, who recently finished building

昆里阿德耶米，它最近修建了

this three-story floating school

一个漂在水上的三层学校

for the kids in Makoko.

给马卡卡这里的孩子们使用。

With this entire village existing on the water,

由于整个村落都在水上，

public space is very limited,

公共空间十分有限，

so now that the school is finished,

所以现在学校建好了，

the ground floor is a playground for the kids,

底层就变成了孩子们的活动场所，

but when classes are out, the platform

但是当课上完了，整个平台

is just like a town square,

就变成了一个小的城镇广场，

where the fishermen mend their nets

渔民在那里补网

and floating shopkeepers dock their boats.

划船卖东西的人们在那里停靠木船。

Another place I'd like to share with you

另一个我希望和你们分享的地方

is the Zabbaleen in Cairo.

是在开罗的扎巴林。

They're descendants of farmers who began migrating

这里的居民是40年代

from the upper Egypt in the '40s,

从埃及上部的地区移居过来的农民的后代，

and today they make their living

今天他们靠着

by collecting and recycling waste from homes

从全开罗居民家里

from all over Cairo.

收集和回收垃圾维生。

For years, the Zabbaleen would live in makeshift villages

很多年来，扎巴林的居民生活在临时的村落里

where they would move around

他们可以随时移动

trying to avoid the local authorities,

以试图回避当地政府，

but in the early 1980s, they settled

但是在80年代初，他们在

on the Mokattam rocks

摩卡塔姆山区定居下来

just at the eastern edge of the city.

就在城市东边的边缘地区。

Today, they live in this area,

今天，他们生活在这片区域，

approximately 50,000 to 70,000 people,

大约5万到7万人，

who live in this community of self-built

住在自己建的

multi-story houses

多层房屋的社区里

where up to three generations live in one structure.

三代同堂。

While these apartments that they built for themselves

虽然这些他们建给自己的公寓

appear to lack any planning or formal grid,

看上去缺少规划或者正规的架构

each family specializing in a certain form of recycling

但每家都擅长收一种特殊的回收方式

means that the ground floor of each apartment

这意味着每个公寓的底层

is reserved for garbage-related activities

被预留给进行垃圾处理相关的工作

and the upper floor is dedicated to living space.

上层是用于居住的空间。

I find it incredible to see

我很不可思议地看到

how these piles and piles of garbage

这些成堆成堆的垃圾是如何

are invisible to the people who live there,

能被住在这里的人们所忽视

like this very distinguished man who is posing

像这个正在端坐的有威望的长者

while all this garbage is sort of streaming out behind him,

他的后面却仿佛有大量垃圾要溢出，

or like these two young men who are sitting

或者像这两位年轻人正坐着聊天

and chatting amongst these tons of garbage.

在他们之间却有着成吨的垃圾。

While to most of us, living amongst

虽然对我们大部分人，生活在

these piles and piles of garbage

这些成堆成堆的垃圾中间

may seem totally uninhabitable,

可能似乎无法适应，

to those in the Zabbaleen, this is just

但对那些生活在扎巴林的人来说，这只是

a different type of normal.

一种与众不同的平常。

In all these places I've talked about today,

在所有我今天说到的地方，

what I do find fascinating is that there's really

我发现最有意思的是

no such thing as normal,

没有一种叫寻常的东西，

and it proves that people are able to adapt

这证明人们有能力适应

to any kind of situation.

各种生存环境。

Throughout the day, it's quite common

一天中，遇到一个正在街上进行的小型派对

to come across a small party taking place

是非常正常的。

in the streets, just like this engagement party.

就像这个订婚的派对

In this tradition, the bride-to-be

在这种传统中，准新娘

displays all of their belongings,

展示出她们要带给未来新丈夫的

which they soon bring to their new husband.

所有个人物品

A gathering like this one

像这样的物品的堆放

offers such a juxtaposition

展示出一种东西放在一起的情形

where all the new stuff is displayed

所有新的物品被展示出来

and all the garbage is used

而所有的垃圾被用作

as props to display all their new home accessories.

展示他们新家所有小装饰的道具。

Like Makoko and the Torre David,

像马卡卡和托雷大卫一样，

throughout the Zabbaleen you'll find all

通过扎巴林你可以发现在任何典型的社区里

the same facilities as in any typical neighborhood.

都完全一样的设施。

There are the retail shops, the cafes

那里有零售店，咖啡厅

and the restaurants, and the community

和餐厅，并且这个社区

is this community of Coptic Christians,

是一个埃及基督徒社区，

so you'll also find a church,

所以你也会发现一个教堂，

along with the scores of religious iconographies

以及大量的宗教图像

throughout the area,

贯穿于这片区域，

and also all the everyday services

还有日常的服务设施

like the electronic repair shops,

比如电器维修点，

the barbers, everything.

理发店，任何设施。

Visiting the homes of the Zabbaleen

参观扎巴林的住家

is also full of surprises.

同样充满惊喜。

While from the outside,

虽然从外面看，

these homes look like any other informal structure

这些房子看上去跟其他在城市里非常规结构的住宅没什么两样

in the city, when you step inside,

但当你走进去，

you are met with all manner of design decisions

你可以看到它所有设计的形式

and interior decoration.

和内部装饰。

Despite having limited access to space and money,

虽然空间和资金都很有限，

the homes in the area are designed

但这里房子的设计

with care and detail.

都十分体贴，注重细节。

Every apartment is unique,

每个公寓都独一无二，

and this individuality tells a story

这种个性告诉我们一个故事

about each family's circumstances and values.

关于每家的情况和价值观念。

Many of these people take their homes

他们很多人对待自己的家

and interior spaces very seriously,

和内部空间十分认真，

putting a lot of work and care

在细节方面

into the details.

花费大量时间和精力。

The shared spaces are also treated in the same manner,

公共区域也被用同样的态度对待，

where walls are decorated in faux marble patterns.

墙面由人造大理石装饰。

But despite this elaborate decor,

但是除了这些精致的装饰，

sometimes these apartments are used

这些公寓里有时候

in very unexpected ways,

也会以一种与众不同的方式被使用。

like this home which caught my attention

比如这个吸引我注意的房子

while all the mud and the grass was literally

很多泥土和杂草

seeping out under the front door.

从前门渗了进去。

When I was let in, it appeared that this fifth-floor apartment

当我进去的时候，这个五层楼的公寓好像

was being transformed into a complete animal farm,

被完全改造成一个农场，

where six or seven cows stood grazing

六七头牛站在里面吃草

in what otherwise would be the living room.

而这里本来应该是客厅。

But then in the apartment across the hall

不过从这个牛棚穿过楼道的这个公寓

from this cow shed lives a newly married couple

住着一对新婚的夫妻

in what locals describe

这里被当地人形容为

as one of the nicest apartments in the area.

当地最好的一座公寓之一。

The attention to this detail astonished me,

公寓里对细节的注意使我震惊，

and as the owner of the home so proudly

并且当公寓的主人很自豪地

led me around this apartment,

让我在这个公寓里随便走动时

from floor to ceiling, every part was decorated.

从地板到屋顶，这里的每处都经过装点。

But if it weren't for the strangely familiar

但假如不是那让人无法忍受的

stomach-churning odor that constantly

持续穿过公寓的

passes through the apartment,

让人恶心的气味，

it would be easy to forget

你会非常容易忘记

that you are standing next to a cow shed

你正站在牛棚的隔壁

and on top of a landfill.

和垃圾清理厂的上方。

What moved me the most was that despite

让我感动的是除了

these seemingly inhospitable conditions,

那些看上去不宜居的条件，

I was welcomed with open arms

我被非常热情地邀请

into a home that was made with love, care,

进入一个充满爱，关怀

and unreserved passion.

和没有保留热情的家。

Let's move across the map to China,

让我们跨越来到中国，

to an area called Shanxi, Henan and Gansu.

来到一个叫陕西，河南和甘肃的区域。

In a region famous for the soft, porous Loess Plateau soil,

一个以柔软松散的黄土高原黄沙而闻名的地区，

there lived until recently an estimated

最新估计那里

40 million people in these houses underground.

有四千万人住在地下的房屋里。

These dwellings are called the yaodongs.

这种住宅称为窑洞。

Through this architecture by subtraction,

通过这种往下建的建筑方式，

these yaodongs are built literally inside of the soil.

这些窑洞真的是建在土地下面

In these villages, you see an entirely altered landscape,

在这些村子里，你可以看到完全改变了的地貌，

and hidden behind these mounds of dirt

而在这些土丘背后

are these square, rectangular houses

藏着的是广场，长方形的房子

which sit seven meters below the ground.

坐落在地下7米的地方。

When I asked people why they were digging

当我问人们为什么要

their houses from the ground,

地上往下挖洞建房子时，

they simply replied that they are poor wheat

他们只是很简单的告诉我，

and apple farmers who didn't have the money

他们是种小麦和苹果的穷农民，没钱

to buy materials, and this digging out

买材料，而这种挖窑洞

was their most logical form of living.

是他们最符合逻辑的居住方式。

From Makoko to Zabbaleen, these communities

从马卡卡到扎巴林，这些社区

have approached the tasks of planning,

解决了规划，

design and management of their communities

设计的任务，并总结了一套管理社区

and neighborhoods in ways that respond

和邻里的的方法，以一种特别针对

specifically to their environment and circumstances.

他们的环境和实际情况的方式。

Created by these very people who live,

由那些居住，

work and play in these particular spaces,

工作，生活在这种特殊空间的人们创造而成，

these neighborhoods are intuitively designed

这些社区是由人们本能地设计

to make the most of their circumstances.

来最大利用他们的生活环境。

In most of these places, the government

这些大多数地方，政府

is completely absent, leaving inhabitants

完全没有管理，因此让居民

with no choice but to reappropriate found materials,

没有选择只能重新利用现成的材料，

and while these communities are highly disadvantaged,

虽然这些社区的环境十分恶劣，

they do present examples

他们却真的显示出

of brilliant forms of ingenuity,

一种杰出的创造力，

and prove that indeed we have the ability

证明我们确实有能力

to adapt to all manner of circumstances.

适应不同的生存环境。

What makes places like the Torre David

让像托雷大卫这样的地方

particularly remarkable

尤其突出的就是

is this sort of skeleton framework

这种框架建筑

where people can have a foundation

让人们可以有一个

where they can tap into.

能够进入改造的基础。

Now imagine what these already ingenious communities

设想这些已经很有创造力的社区

could create themselves,

可以创造出什么，

and how highly particular their solutions would be,

而他们的解决方案将有多么特别，

if they were given the basic infrastructures

假如他们拥有使他们可以进入的

that they could tap into.

基本的设施。

Today, you see these large residential development projects

今天，你看到这些大型的房屋住宅建设工程

which offer cookie-cutter housing solutions

给大量的人

to massive amounts of people.

提供千篇一律的住房解决方案。

From China to Brazil, these projects attempt

从中国到巴西，这些工程试图

to provide as many houses as possible,

提供给人们尽可能多的房子，

but they're completely generic

但他们完全是大众化的，

and simply do not work as an answer

并且简单来说不是一个

to the individual needs of the people.

针对人们个体需求的解决方法。

I would like to end with a quote

我想引用一句话来收尾

from a friend of mine and a source of inspiration,

它来自于我的一个朋友和一种期望，

Zita Cobb, the founder of the wonderful

查塔·科巴

Shorefast Foundation,

出色的Shorefast基金会创始人，

based out of Fogo Island, Newfoundland.

总部在纽芬兰的福戈岛。

She says that "there's this plague of sameness

她说：”这里有一种名为‘相同’的瘟疫

which is killing the human joy,"

在杀死人类的快乐，"

and I couldn't agree with her more.

而我非常赞同这句话。

Thank you.

谢谢

(Applause)

（鼓掌）