Iwan Baan: Ingenious homes in unexpected places

譯者: Marssi Draw 審譯者: Geoff Chen

Throughout my career, I've been fortunate enough

在我的職業生涯中一直很幸運

to work with many of the great

能和許多很棒的

international architects,

國際建築師合作，

documenting their work and observing

記錄他們的作品，並且觀察

how their designs have the capacity

他們的設計是如何能

to influence the cities in which they sit.

影響他們所在的城市。

I think of new cities like Dubai

我思考一些像是杜拜的新城市，

or ancient cities like Rome

或是像羅馬的古老城市，

with Zaha Hadid's incredible MAXXI museum,

那裡有札哈．哈蒂設計 另人驚豔的 21 世紀美術館，

or like right here in New York with the High Line,

又或者像是在此地紐約的空中花園，

a city which has been so much influenced

受到這些設計開發影響

by the development of this.

十分深遠的城市。

But what I find really fascinating

但是我發現真正吸引我的是

is what happens when architects and planners leave

在建築師和規劃師離開之後發生的事。

and these places become appropriated by people,

這些地方被人們重新定義，

like here in Chandigarh, India,

像是印度的昌迪加爾，

the city which has been completely designed

這座完全由

建築師柯比意所設計的城市。

by the architect Le Corbusier.

Now 60 years later, the city has been taken over

60 年後的現在，這座城市已由

by people in very different ways

人民接手，運用的方式迥異於

from whatever perhaps intended for,

它原來建造的本意。

like here, where you have the people

就像這裡，你可以看見

sitting in the windows of the assembly hall.

人們坐在聚會堂的窗洞中。

But over the course of several years,

在這幾年之間，

I've been documenting Rem Koolhaas's

我記錄了由雷姆．庫哈斯設計

CCTV building in Beijing

位在北京的中央電視台總部大樓，

and the olympic stadium in the same city

以及在同一個城市的國家體育場，

by the architects Herzog and de Meuron.

出自建築師赫爾佐格和德梅隆。

At these large-scale construction sites in China,

這些在中國的大型建築物周圍，

you see a sort of makeshift camp

你可以看到一種臨時帳篷，

where workers live during the entire building process.

在整個建造期間，工人們都住在這裡。

As the length of the construction takes years,

因為工程長達數年，

workers end up forming a rather rough-and-ready

工人們後來形成了一個簡陋、將就的

informal city, making for quite a juxtaposition

非正規城市，和他們正在

against the sophisticated structures that they're building.

建造的精緻建築形成強烈對比。

Over the past seven years, I've been following

在過去七年間，我一直追隨著

my fascination with the built environment,

自己對建築環境的迷戀，

and for those of you who know me, you would say

在座認識我的人會說

that this obsession has led me to live

這種迷戀讓我

out of a suitcase 365 days a year.

甘於過著一年 365 天 提著行李箱的奔波生活。

Being constantly on the move

不斷地移動

means that sometimes I am able

意謂著有時候我會

to catch life's most unpredictable moments,

巧遇人生中最難以預料的一些時刻，

like here in New York

就像是桑迪颶風

the day after the Sandy storm hit the city.

侵襲紐約的隔天。

Just over three years ago,

我在三年前

I was for the first time in Caracas, Venezuela,

第一次到委內瑞拉的卡拉卡斯，

and while flying over the city, I was just amazed

在飛越這個城市的途中，

by the extent to which the slums

見到貧民窟遍及整座城市的

reach into every corner of the city,

每個角落，讓我十分驚訝，

a place where nearly 70 percent of the population

這個地方有將近 70% 的人口

lives in slums,

住在貧民窟裡，

draped literally all over the mountains.

幾乎是布滿了整個山頭。

During a conversation with local architects Urban-Think Tank,

在一場與當地建築師團隊 城市智庫的對話中，

I learned about the Torre David,

我聽到有關「托雷大衛高樓」的故事，

a 45-story office building which sits

那是一棟 45 層樓的辦公大樓，座落在

right in the center of Caracas.

卡拉卡斯的中心。

The building was under construction

這棟建築的工程

until the collapse of the Venezuelan economy

進行到 90 年代初期，

and the death of the developer in the early '90s.

直到委內瑞拉經濟崩盤， 開發商過世而中止了。

About eight years ago, people started moving

大約八年前，人們開始搬進

into the abandoned tower

這棟廢棄的高樓，

and began to build their homes right in between

著手構築自己的家，就在

every column of this unfinished tower.

這棟未完成高樓之間的 每個小窗格裡。

There's only one little entrance to the entire building,

整棟大樓只有一個很小的入口，

and the 3,000 residents come in and out

多達三千名居民進出

through that single door.

全靠這扇唯一的門。

Together, the inhabitants created public spaces

同樣的，住戶建立了公共空間，

and designed them to feel more like a home

把它構築得更像一個家，

and less like an unfinished tower.

而不是一座未完成的高塔。

In the lobby, they painted the walls and planted trees.

他們在大廳漆了牆、種了樹，

They also made a basketball court.

還設了一個籃球場。

But when you look up closely,

但是當你靠近些看，

you see massive holes where elevators

你會看見一些很大的洞，

and services would have run through.

那是原本預留來配裝電梯 和公共設施的位置。

Within the tower, people have come up

人們在高樓裡

with all sorts of solutions

提供各式各樣的服務，

in response to the various needs

只要是生活在這棟未完成的大樓裡

which arise from living in an unfinished tower.

會碰到的各種需求都能滿足。

With no elevators,

由於沒有電梯，

the tower is like a 45-story walkup.

這棟高樓就像是 45 層樓的無電梯公寓。

Designed in very specific ways

由這群完全沒有學過

by this group of people

建築或設計的人們

who haven't had any education in architecture or design.

採用很特別的方式設計完成的。

And with each inhabitant finding their own

每一位居民都找到自己

unique way of coming by,

獨特的打造方式，

this tower becomes like a living city,

這棟高樓變成一座生氣蓬勃的城市，

a place which is alive with micro-economies

一個有活躍微型經濟

and small businesses.

和小生意的地方。

The inventive inhabitants, for instance,

舉例來說，有創意的居民

find opportunities in the most unexpected cases,

在最意想不到的地方找到機會，

like the adjacent parking garage,

像是將停車場

which has been reclaimed as a taxi route

改造成計乘車的行經路線，

to shuttle the inhabitants up through the ramps

把居民載上爬坡，

in order to shorten the hike

如此一來就能縮短

up to the apartments.

爬上樓的距離。

A walk through the tower

在高樓中繞一會兒，

reveals how residents have figured out

就能發現居民找到

how to create walls, how to make an air flow,

如何在高樓中搭蓋圍牆、讓空氣流通、

how to create transparency,

以及採光

circulation throughout the tower,

和空氣循環的方式，

essentially creating a home

基本上就是完全順應

that's completely adapted

居住環境

to the conditions of the site.

來打造一個家。

When a new inhabitant moves into the tower,

當一位新居民搬進高樓，

they already have a roof over their head,

他們的頭上已有屋頂，

so they just typically mark their space

因此他們只需要

with a few curtains or sheets.

放上簾子和床單來標示自己的家。

Slowly, from found materials, walls rise,

慢慢地，透過尋找材料、築起牆，

and people create a space out of any found objects

人們用各種找得到的東西或材料

or materials.

來打造一個空間。

It's remarkable to see the design decisions

他們的設計選擇

that they're making,

總讓我大為驚奇，

like when everything is made out of red bricks,

像是當每樣東西都用紅磚做成的時候，

some residents will cover that red brick

有些居民會在紅磚上

with another layer of red brick-patterned wallpaper

貼上另一層磚塊圖案的壁紙，

just to make it a kind of clean finish.

讓它看起來像是剛完工的新穎模樣。

The inhabitants literally built up these homes

基本上居民用雙手打造自己的家，

with their own hands, and this labor of love

這種因為喜愛而做的舉動

instills a great sense of pride

為這棟高樓裡的許多家庭注入

in many families living in this tower.

一種高貴的尊嚴。

They typically make the best out of their conditions,

他們充分利用自己的環境，

and try to make their spaces look nice and homey,

試著讓空間看起來舒適、像個家，

or at least up until as far as they can reach.

至少盡全力做到最好。

Throughout the tower, you come across

你可以在整棟高樓中找到

all kinds of services, like the barber,

各種服務，像是理髮廳、

small factories, and every floor has

小工廠，而且每層樓都有

a little grocery store or shop.

一家小雜貨店。

And you even find a church.

甚至連教堂都找得到。

And on the 30th floor, there is a gym

在 30 樓還有一家健身房，

where all the weights and barbells

各種舉重槓鈴、啞鈴

are made out of the leftover pulleys

都是用那些原本要拿來

from the elevators which were never installed.

裝電梯的廢棄滑輪做成的。

From the outside, behind this always-changing facade,

從外頭看，在這不斷變化的外觀後面，

you see how the fixed concrete beams

你會發現這些固定的水泥柱

provide a framework for the inhabitants

提供居民

to create their homes

打造自宅的架構，

in an organic, intuitive way

用一種自然發展的方式

that responds directly to their needs.

直接回應他們的需求。

Let's go now to Africa, to Nigeria,

現在我們來到非洲奈及利亞境內

to a community called Makoko,

一個名叫馬可可的社區，

a slum where 150,000 people

這裡有 15 萬人住在貧民窟，

live just meters above the Lagos Lagoon.

往下走幾尺就是拉各斯潟湖。

While it may appear to be a completely chaotic place,

這裡可能會變成一個非常雜亂的地方，

when you see it from above, there seems to be

當你從上面看，就像是

a whole grid of waterways and canals

一整面水道和運河組成的格子

connecting each and every home.

連結每一戶人家。

From the main dock, people board long wooden canoes

人們從主要的碼頭搭乘長型獨木舟

which carry them out to their various homes and shops

前往在這片廣闊水域中

located in the expansive area.

形形色色的住宅和商店。

When out on the water, it's clear

離開水面後，顯而易見的是

that life has been completely adapted

人們已經完全適應

to this very specific way of living.

這種特別的生活方式。

Even the canoes become variety stores

甚至連獨木舟都變成 各式各樣不同的商店，

where ladies paddle from house to house,

婦女划著漿挨家挨戶

selling anything from toothpaste to fresh fruits.

販賣牙膏、水果等各種東西。

Behind every window and door frame,

在每扇門窗後，

you'll see a small child peering back at you,

你會看見小孩窺探著你。

and while Makoko seems to be packed with people,

馬可可看起來到處都是人，

what's more shocking is actually

最讓人驚訝的莫過於

the amount of children pouring out of every building.

每戶人家不斷增加的孩童數量。

The population growth in Nigeria,

奈及利亞的人口成長，

and especially in these areas like Makoko,

尤其是在像馬可可的這些地方

are painful reminders

都痛苦地提醒著人們

of how out of control things really are.

事情失控得多麼嚴重。

In Makoko, very few systems

馬可可裡的民生設施和

and infrastructures exist.

公共建設非常少。

Electricity is rigged and freshest water

電力配線草率，整個區域

comes from self-built wells throughout the area.

最乾淨的水源是自己挖的井水。

This entire economic model

這整個經濟模式

is designed to meet a specific way of living

設計成能夠滿足居住在 水上的特殊生活方式，

on the water, so fishing and boat-making

因此釣魚和製作船支

are common professions.

成了最普遍的職業。

You'll have a set of entrepreneurs

這裡有一群生意人

who have set up businesses throughout the area,

促進了整個區域商業活動，

like barbershops, CD and DVD stores,

像是理髮業、CD 和 DVD 唱片行、

movie theaters, tailors, everything is there.

電影院、裁縫店，什麼東西都有。

There is even a photo studio

甚至還有攝影工作室，

where you see the sort of aspiration

你可以看到一種

to live in a real house or to be associated

住在真正房子的渴望，或是期盼

with a faraway place, like that hotel in Sweden.

和遠方有聯結，像是在瑞典的旅館。

On this particular evening,

在這特別的午後，

I came across this live band

我巧遇這組樂團，

dressed to the T in their coordinating outfits.

團員們穿著同樣的 T 恤團服。

They were floating through the canals

他們坐在配有發電機的獨木舟上

in a large canoe with a fitted-out generator

漂過河道，

for all of the community to enjoy.

帶給整個社區歡樂。

By nightfall, the area becomes almost pitch black,

夜幕低垂，整個區域幾乎是一片漆黑，

save for a small lightbulb

家戶只留下一盞小燈

or a fire.

或爐火。

What originally brought me to Makoko

原本讓我到馬可可的原因

was this project from a friend of mine,

是因為朋友介紹的這個計畫，

Kunlé Adeyemi, who recently finished building

昆勒．阿德耶米最近完成

this three-story floating school

這個三層樓高的漂浮學校

for the kids in Makoko.

給馬可可的小朋友使用。

With this entire village existing on the water,

這整個村莊都在水上，

public space is very limited,

公共空間十分有限，

so now that the school is finished,

因此當學校完工後，

the ground floor is a playground for the kids,

一樓就成了小朋友的遊樂區，

but when classes are out, the platform

但是下課後，平臺

is just like a town square,

成了村民廣場，

where the fishermen mend their nets

漁人在這裡修補魚網，

and floating shopkeepers dock their boats.

漂浮商人在這兒停靠小船。

Another place I'd like to share with you

另一個我想分享的地方

is the Zabbaleen in Cairo.

是在開羅的札巴林。

They're descendants of farmers who began migrating

他們是 40 年代開始從上埃及

from the upper Egypt in the '40s,

遷移來此的農民後代，

and today they make their living

現今他們維生的方式是

by collecting and recycling waste from homes

回收整個開羅的

from all over Cairo.

家庭垃圾。

For years, the Zabbaleen would live in makeshift villages

幾年來，札巴林會住在 臨時搭建的村子裡，

where they would move around

他們為了

trying to avoid the local authorities,

避開地方政府四處搬遷，

but in the early 1980s, they settled

但是在 80 年代初期，他們定居

on the Mokattam rocks

在莫卡頓山區，

just at the eastern edge of the city.

位在城市的東緣。

Today, they live in this area,

現在他們住在這個地區，

approximately 50,000 to 70,000 people,

大約有五到七萬人

who live in this community of self-built

居住在這個社區中自己搭建、

multi-story houses

樓數不一的房子裡，

where up to three generations live in one structure.

有多達三代以上的家庭 住在同一棟房子裡。

While these apartments that they built for themselves

僅管這些他們為自己蓋的公寓

appear to lack any planning or formal grid,

看起來沒有任何設計或正規的格局，

each family specializing in a certain form of recycling

每戶人家都專門從事 某一種特定的回收，

means that the ground floor of each apartment

意謂著每棟房子的一樓

is reserved for garbage-related activities

都保留來做為處理與垃圾有關的工作，

and the upper floor is dedicated to living space.

而上面的樓層則做為居住空間。

I find it incredible to see

我覺得很不可思議的是看到

how these piles and piles of garbage

這些堆積如山的垃圾

are invisible to the people who live there,

當地人似乎都視而不見，

like this very distinguished man who is posing

像這位高雅的先生就在

while all this garbage is sort of streaming out behind him,

像要湧向他的垃圾堆前 擺出拍照的姿勢；

or like these two young men who are sitting

又或是像這兩個年輕人坐在

and chatting amongst these tons of garbage.

好幾噸的垃圾間聊天。

While to most of us, living amongst

然而對大部分的我們來說，住在

these piles and piles of garbage

這堆積如山的垃圾間

may seem totally uninhabitable,

幾乎是不可能的事，

to those in the Zabbaleen, this is just

而對這些札巴林人而言，這只是

a different type of normal.

另一種正常的生活方式。

In all these places I've talked about today,

今天我分享的這些地方

what I do find fascinating is that there's really

深深吸引我的原因在於

no such thing as normal,

其實沒有什麼事情是特別的，

and it proves that people are able to adapt

這也證明了人們能夠適應

to any kind of situation.

任何不同的環境。

Throughout the day, it's quite common

一天下來，

to come across a small party taking place

要在街上碰到一場小派對 是很稀鬆平常的事，

in the streets, just like this engagement party.

就像是這場訂婚派對。

In this tradition, the bride-to-be

這裡的傳統是待嫁新娘

displays all of their belongings,

要公眾展示所有的嫁妝，

which they soon bring to their new husband.

過不久他們就會 把這些東西帶到夫家去。

A gathering like this one

像這樣的聚會

offers such a juxtaposition

提供了強烈的對比，

where all the new stuff is displayed

所有嶄新的嫁妝就展示在

and all the garbage is used

這些垃圾之中，

as props to display all their new home accessories.

就像是道具般地 突顯它們的新家飾品。

Like Makoko and the Torre David,

如同馬可可和托雷大衛高樓，

throughout the Zabbaleen you'll find all

在札巴林中，你也會發現

the same facilities as in any typical neighborhood.

在其它典型社區中有的 各種相同公共設施。

There are the retail shops, the cafes

有裁縫店、咖啡廳

and the restaurants, and the community

和餐廳，這個社區是

is this community of Coptic Christians,

科普特基督徒的社區，

so you'll also find a church,

因此你也會找到一間教堂，

along with the scores of religious iconographies

以及大量的宗教圖示

throughout the area,

出現在這整個區域中。

and also all the everyday services

同樣地，所有日常服務

like the electronic repair shops,

像是水電行、

the barbers, everything.

理髮廳，各種服務都有。

Visiting the homes of the Zabbaleen

參訪札巴林家庭

is also full of surprises.

也充滿驚喜。

While from the outside,

從外觀看，

these homes look like any other informal structure

這些家庭看起來就像 市區裡的一般建築，

in the city, when you step inside,

但是當你往內走，

you are met with all manner of design decisions

你會碰到各式各樣的設計

and interior decoration.

和室內裝飾。

Despite having limited access to space and money,

僅管空間和收入有限，

the homes in the area are designed

這個地區的家庭都

with care and detail.

經過精心細緻的設計。

Every apartment is unique,

每間公寓都獨一無二，

and this individuality tells a story

而這樣的特質展現了

about each family's circumstances and values.

每一個家庭的經濟情況和價值觀。

Many of these people take their homes

這裡的許多人把家庭

and interior spaces very seriously,

和室內空間看得很重要，

putting a lot of work and care

花了很大的力氣和精神，

into the details.

連細節都不放過。

The shared spaces are also treated in the same manner,

公共空間也同樣地精心布置，

where walls are decorated in faux marble patterns.

用人造大理石圖案的壁紙來裝飾。

But despite this elaborate decor,

除了這樣的精心擺設，

sometimes these apartments are used

有時候人們會以非常意想不到的方式

in very unexpected ways,

來使用這些公寓，

like this home which caught my attention

像是這戶人家讓我大開眼界，

while all the mud and the grass was literally

污泥和草幾乎

seeping out under the front door.

從前門縫底蔓延進來。

When I was let in, it appeared that this fifth-floor apartment

我被邀請入內後， 這棟五層樓高的公寓顯然

was being transformed into a complete animal farm,

被改造成一個牧場，

where six or seven cows stood grazing

裡面有六、七隻牛被養在

in what otherwise would be the living room.

本來應該是當作客廳的地方。

But then in the apartment across the hall

但是經過這個牛棚穿越門廊後，

from this cow shed lives a newly married couple

一對新婚夫妻住在一間

in what locals describe

當地人會形容

as one of the nicest apartments in the area.

這個區域最棒的公寓中。

The attention to this detail astonished me,

細緻的程度讓我瞠目結舌，

and as the owner of the home so proudly

主人家非常驕傲地

led me around this apartment,

邀請我參觀公寓，

from floor to ceiling, every part was decorated.

從地板到天花板，每一處都有裝飾。

But if it weren't for the strangely familiar

但是如果沒有那種奇怪、熟悉、

stomach-churning odor that constantly

讓人作噁的臭味不斷地

passes through the apartment,

飄散在整間公寓裡，

it would be easy to forget

你會很容易遺忘

that you are standing next to a cow shed

自己就站在牛棚旁邊，

and on top of a landfill.

還有垃圾堆上面。

What moved me the most was that despite

最讓我感動的是儘管

these seemingly inhospitable conditions,

這裡看似是不適合人居住的環境，

I was welcomed with open arms

我還是被張開雙臂邀請

into a home that was made with love, care,

進入這個以愛、關懷 和毫無保留的熱情

and unreserved passion.

築成的家。

Let's move across the map to China,

讓我們移動到地圖另一端中國

to an area called Shanxi, Henan and Gansu.

境內的山西、河南和甘肅。

In a region famous for the soft, porous Loess Plateau soil,

這裡以土質疏鬆的黃土高原為名，

there lived until recently an estimated

最近一項估計指出那裡至少有

40 million people in these houses underground.

四千萬人住在地下屋裡，

These dwellings are called the yaodongs.

這些住所被稱為窯洞。

Through this architecture by subtraction,

透過這個消去的建築法，

these yaodongs are built literally inside of the soil.

這些窯洞可以說是蓋在土裡面。

In these villages, you see an entirely altered landscape,

在這些村子裡，你會看到 完全不同的景象，

and hidden behind these mounds of dirt

藏在這些土壤中的是

are these square, rectangular houses

這些方形的屋子，

which sit seven meters below the ground.

位在地平面以下七尺深的泥土中。

When I asked people why they were digging

我問這些居民為什麼

their houses from the ground,

要向下挖房子，

they simply replied that they are poor wheat

他們只說了因為他們是種麥

and apple farmers who didn't have the money

和蘋果的窮農夫，沒有錢

to buy materials, and this digging out

買材料，這樣挖洞

was their most logical form of living.

是最符合常理的生活方式。

From Makoko to Zabbaleen, these communities

從馬可可到札巴林，這些社群

have approached the tasks of planning,

都著手計畫、

design and management of their communities

設計和管理社群的任務，

and neighborhoods in ways that respond

而整個街坊明確地反應了

specifically to their environment and circumstances.

他們的環境與處境。

Created by these very people who live,

由在這些特殊地點居住、

work and play in these particular spaces,

工作和玩耍的在地居民打造，

these neighborhoods are intuitively designed

他們用最直接的想法

to make the most of their circumstances.

設計最合適的居住環境。

In most of these places, the government

這些大部分都是政府

is completely absent, leaving inhabitants

完全缺席的地方，讓居民

with no choice but to reappropriate found materials,

毫無選擇地只好 以現有的材料打造居所。

and while these communities are highly disadvantaged,

在這些社群一無所有的情況下，

they do present examples

他們會展現

of brilliant forms of ingenuity,

智慧與巧思，

and prove that indeed we have the ability

證明我們真的有能力

to adapt to all manner of circumstances.

適應各種環境。

What makes places like the Torre David

讓多瑞大衛高樓這種地方

particularly remarkable

顯得格外特別的原因是因為

is this sort of skeleton framework

這些現成的建築架構

where people can have a foundation

讓人們有一個

where they can tap into.

能夠開始著手的基礎。

Now imagine what these already ingenious communities

想像這些聰穎的社群

could create themselves,

可以為自己創造什麼，

and how highly particular their solutions would be,

他們的解決方式可能多特別，

if they were given the basic infrastructures

而前提是他們只有很基礎的建設

that they could tap into.

可以運用。

Today, you see these large residential development projects

今天，你看到這些大型的住宅發展計畫

which offer cookie-cutter housing solutions

為面對居住問題的人們

to massive amounts of people.

提供千篇一律的解決辦法。

From China to Brazil, these projects attempt

從中國到巴西，這些計畫嘗試

to provide as many houses as possible,

盡可能提供更多的住宅，

but they're completely generic

但是那全都只是 普遍一視同仁的作法，

and simply do not work as an answer

這樣的方式

to the individual needs of the people.

不能滿足每個人不同的需求。

I would like to end with a quote

我想以一句引言做結，

from a friend of mine and a source of inspiration,

來自我的朋友，也是我的靈感來源，

Zita Cobb, the founder of the wonderful

澤塔．科布，她是傑出的

Shorefast Foundation,

Shorefast 基金會的創辦人，

based out of Fogo Island, Newfoundland.

位於紐芬蘭的福戈島。

She says that "there's this plague of sameness

她說：「是這種一成不變的瘟疫

which is killing the human joy,"

正在扼殺人類的樂趣。」

and I couldn't agree with her more.

我非常認同這一點。

Thank you.

謝謝！

(Applause)

（掌聲）