Eddy Cartaya: My glacier cave discoveries

Prevodilac: Vesna Savić Lektor: Mile Živković

So how many of you have ever been in a cave before?

Koliko vas je nekada bilo u nekoj pećini?

Okay, a few of you.

Znači nekoliko vas.

When you think of a cave, most of you think

Kada pomislite na pećinu, većina vas će zamisliti

of a tunnel going through solid rock,

tunel u kamenu,

and in fact, that's how most caves are.

a takva i jeste većina.

Around this half of the country,

U ovoj polovini zemlje

most of your caves are made of limestone.

većina pećina je krečnjačka.

Back where I'm from, most of our caves are made of lava rock,

Tamo odakle sam ja, većina pećina je od skamenjene lave

because we have a lot of volcanoes out there.

jer imamo puno vulkana.

But the caves I want to share with you today are made

Pećine koje danas želim da vam pokažem

completely of ice, specifically glacier ice

su u potpunosti od leda, tačnije glečera

that's formed in the side of the tallest mountain

koji se formiraju na jednoj padini najviše planine

in the state of Oregon, called Mount Hood.

u američkoj državi Oregon, koja se zove Hud.

Now Mount Hood's only one hour's drive from Portland,

Ta planina je na samo sat vremena vožnje od Portlanda,

the largest city in Oregon,

najvećeg grada u Oregonu,

where over two million people live.

u kome živi dva miliona ljudi.

Now the most exciting thing for a cave explorer

Za svakog istraživača pećina najzanimljivije je

is to find a new cave

kada se otkrije nova pećina

and be the first human to ever go into it.

i kada ste prva osoba koja u nju kroči.

The second most exciting thing for a cave explorer

Druga stvar je

is to be the first one to make a map of a cave.

da prvi napravite mapu pećine.

Now these days, with so many people hiking around,

U ovo vreme s puno planinara na sve strane

it's pretty hard to find a new cave,

vrlo je teško pronaći novu pećinu

so you can imagine how excited we were

tako da možete zamisliti koliko smo bili uzbuđeni

to find three new caves

kada smo našli tri nove pećine

within sight of Oregon's largest city

na videlu najvećeg grada u Oregonu

and realize that they had never been explored

i shvatili da do sada nisu istraživane

or mapped before.

niti mapirane.

It was kind of like being an astronaut,

Osećali smo se kao astronauti

because we were getting to see things and go places

jer smo mogli da vidimo i posetimo mesta

that no one had ever seen or gone to before.

na koja niko nikad nije kročio.

So what is a glacier?

A šta je glečer?

Well, those of you who have ever seen or touched snow,

Ako ste ikad videli i osetili sneg

you know that it's really light,

znate da je veoma lagan,

because it's just a bunch of tiny ice crystals clumped together, and it's mostly air.

zato što se sastoji od mnoštva nagomilanih sitnih kristala i većinom vazduha.

If you squish a handful of snow to make a snowball,

Ako stisnete sneg da napravite grudvu

it gets really small, hard and dense.

postaće manji, tvrđi i gušći.

Well, on a mountain like Hood, where it snows

Na planini kao što je Hud, gde snežni pokrivač

over 20 feet a year,

dostiže visinu do preko pola metra godišnje,

it crushes the air out of it

sneg potiskuje vazduh

and gradually forms it into hard blue ice.

i postepeno se formira tvrdi plavi led.

Now each year, more and more ice stacks up on top of it,

Svake godine se sve više leda nagomilava

and eventually it gets so heavy

dok na kraju ne oteža toliko

that it starts to slide down the mountain

da počne da klizi niz padinu

under its own weight,

od sopstvene težine.

forming a slow-moving river of ice.

praveći reku leda koji se sporo kreće.

When ice packed like that starts to move,

Kada se pokrene tako zgrušan led,

we call it a glacier, and we give it a name.

zovemo ga glečerom i damo mu ime.

The name of the glacier these caves are formed in

Ime glečera u kome su te pećine

is the Sandy Glacier.

je glečer Sendi.

Now each year, as new snow lands on the glacier,

Svake godine, kad novi sneg padne na glečer,

it melts in the summer sun,

on se topi pod letnjim suncem

and it forms little rivers of water on the flow along the ice,

i u svom toku, pored leda, stvara i rečice

and they start to melt and bore their way down through the glacier,

i oni se zajedno tope i slivaju zajedno s glečerom,

forming big networks of caves,

stvarajući velike mreže pećina,

sometimes going all the way down to the underlying bedrock.

ponekad čak i do donjeg kamenitog sloja tla.

Now the crazy thing about glacier caves

Zanimljivo je to što se svake godine

is that each year, new tunnels form.

u glečerskim pećinama stvore novi tuneli.

Different waterfalls pop up or move around

U pećini se pojave i različiti vodopadi

from place to place inside the cave.

koji mogu da se pomeraju s jednog mesta na drugo.

Warm water from the top of the ice

Topla voda s površine leda

is boring its way down,

probija put ka dole

and warm air from below the mountain

a topao vazduh ispod planine

actually rises up, gets into the cave,

se penje gore, ulazi u pećinu

and melts the ceilings back taller and taller.

i sve više topi tavanicu.

But the weirdest thing about glacier caves

Najčudnije je to

is that the entire cave is moving,

što se glečerske pećine kreću

because it's formed inside a block of ice

zato što su unutar gromade leda,

the size of a small city

veličine omanjeg grada,

that's slowly sliding down the mountain.

koja polako klizi niz planinu.

Now this is Brent McGregor,

Ovo je Brent Makgregor,

my cave exploration partner.

moj partner u istraživanju pećina.

He and I have both been exploring caves a long time

Obojica dugo istražujemo pećine

and we've been climbing mountains a long time,

i dugo se pentramo po planinama,

but neither one of us had ever really explored a glacier cave before.

ali dosad nismo istraživali nijednu glečersku pećinu.

Back in 2011, Brent saw a YouTube video

2011. godine, Brent je video snimak na Jutjubu

of a couple of hikers that stumbled across the entrance to one of these caves.

u kome su dva pešaka naišla na ulaz u jednu od ovih pećina.

There were no GPS coordinates for it,

Nisu postojale GPS koordinate do nje

and all we knew was that it was somewhere

i znali smo samo da je negde

out on the Sandy Glacier.

na glečeru Sendi.

So in July of that year, we went out on the glacier,

Jula iste godine otišli smo na taj glečer

and we found a big crack in the ice.

i našli smo veliku pukotinu u ledu.

We had to build snow and ice anchors

Morali smo da postavimo kuke u sneg i led

so that we could tie off ropes and rappel down into the hole.

kako bismo vezali konopce i spustili se u rupu.

This is me looking into the entrance crevasse.

Ovde ja gledam ulaznu pukotinu.

At the end of this hole, we found a huge tunnel

Na kraju te rupe smo našli ogroman tunel

going right up the mountain

koji je vodio tačno u planinu,

underneath thousands of tons of glacier ice.

ispod hiljada tona glečerskog leda.

We followed this cave back for about a half mile

Išli smo kroz pećinu skoro 800 metara

until it came to an end,

do samog njenog kraja,

and then with the help of our survey tools

a onda smo uz pomoć istraživačkog alata

we made a three-dimensional map of the cave

napravili trodimenzionalnu mapu pećine

on our way back out.

dok smo se vraćali nazad.

So how do you map a cave?

Kako se pećina mapira?

Well, cave maps aren't like trail maps or road maps

Mape pećina nisu kao pešačke staze ili putevi

because they have pits and holes going to overlapping levels.

zato što ima raznih rupa koje se preklapaju na različitim nivoima.

To make a cave map, you have to set up

Za mapiranje pećine u njoj treba da se postave

survey stations every few feet inside the cave,

merne stanice na svakih pola metra

and you use a laser to measure the distance between those stations.

pa se laserom meri razdaljina između svake.

Then you use a compass and an inclinometer

Potom se koriste kompas i inklinometar

to measure the direction the cave is headed

da se izmeri pravac u kome se pećina prostire

and measure the slope of the floor and the ceilings.

i nagib poda i tavanice.

Now those of you taking trigonometry,

Onima koji znaju trigonometriju

that particular type of math is very useful

ti podaci su vrlo korisni

for making maps like this

za pravljenje takvih mapa

because it allows you to measure heights and distances

zato što mogu da se izmere visine i razdaljine

without actually having to go there.

bez odlaženja na samo mesto.

In fact, the more I mapped and studied caves,

Zapravo, što sam više mapirao i proučavao pećine

the more useful I found all that math

to mi je korisnija bila trigonometrija

that I originally hated in school to be.

koju sam prvo mrzeo u školi.

So when you're done surveying,

Kada se završi s istraživanjem,

you take all this data and you punch it into a computer

svi ti podaci se smeste na računar

and you find someone that can draw really well,

i uz pomoć nekoga ko dobro crta

and you have them draft up a map

sastavite skicu

that looks something like this,

nalik na ovu,

and it'll show you both a bird's-eye view of the passage

koja prikazuje prolaz iz ptičje perspektive

as well as a profile view of the passage,

kao i bočni presek prolaza,

kind of like an ant farm view.

nalik na presek mravlje kolonije.

We named this cave Snow Dragon Cave

Ovu pećinu smo nazvali Snežni zmaj

because it was like a big dragon sleeping under the snow.

jer je kao veliki zmaj koji spava pod snegom.

Now later this summer, as more snow melted off the glacier,

Istog tog leta, kako se sneg na glečeru topio,

we found more caves, and we realized they were all connected.

našli smo još pećina i shvatili da su sve povezane.

Not long after we mapped Snow Dragon,

Nedugo nakon mapiranja Snežnog zmaja

Brent discovered this new cave not very far away.

Brent je nedaleko od njega otkrio novu pećinu.

The inside of it was coated with ice,

Unutrašnjost joj je bila obložena snegom,

so we had to wear big spikes on our feet called crampons

te smo morali da na obući nosimo krampone

so we could walk around without slipping.

protiv proklizavanja.

This cave was amazing.

Pećina je bila neverovatna.

The ice in the ceiling was glowing blue anad green

Sneg na tavanici se presijavao na plavo i zeleno

because the sunlight from far above

jer su sunčevi zraci odgore

was shining through the ice and lighting it all up.

padali kroz led i osvetljavali celu pećinu.

And we couldn't understand why this cave

Nije nam bilo jasno zašto je ta pećina

was so much colder than Snow Dragon

bila hladnija od Snežnog zmaja

until we got to the end and we found out why.

dok nismo stigli do kraja.

There was a huge pit or shaft called a moulin

Otkrili smo ogroman otvor koji se zove „mulin“,

going 130 feet straight up to the surface of the glacier.

dugačak 40 metara i koji ide do površine glečera.

Cold air from the top of the mountain

Hladan vazduh s vrha planine

was flowing down this hole and blasting through the cave,

se spuštao kroz tu rupu i šibao je pećinom,

freezing everything inside of it.

ledeći sve unutra.

And we were so excited about finding this new pit,

Bili smo toliko uzbuđeni zbog tog otkrića

we actually came back in January the following year

da smo se narednog januara vratili

so we could be the first ones to explore it.

kako bismo je prvi istraživali.

It was so cold outside,

Napolju je bilo toliko hladno

we actually had to sleep inside the cave.

da smo morali da spavamo u pećini.

There's our camp on the left side of this entrance room.

S leve strane ulaza se vidi naš kamp.

The next morning, we climbed out of the cave

Narednog jutra smo se popeli iz pećine

and hiked all the way to the top of the glacier,

i otpešačili sve do vrha glečera,

where we finally rigged and rappelled this pit

gde smo se konačno uz pomoć konopca uspentrali

for the very first time.

prvi put kroz taj prolaz.

Brent named this cave Pure Imagination,

Brent je tu pećinu nazvao Čista mašta,

I think because the beautiful sights we saw in there

jer stvari koje smo tamo videli

were beyond what we could have ever imagined.

nismo mogli ni da zamislimo.

So besides really cool ice, what else is inside these caves?

Pored sveg tog leda, čega još ima u pećinama?

Well not too much lives in them because they're so cold

Skoro ih ništa ne nastanjuje jer su jako hladne

and the entrance is actually covered up with snow

a ulazi su prekriveni snegom

for about eight months of the year.

skoro osam meseci godišnje.

But there are some really cool things in there.

Ali ima vrlo zanimljivih stvari.

There's weird bacteria living in the water

U vodi živi neobična bakterija

that actually eat and digest rocks

koja se hrani kamenjem i vari ga

to make their own food

da bi sebi napravila hranu

to live under this ice.

i živela pod ledom.

In fact, this past summer, scientists collected

Ovoga leta su naučnici skupili

samples of water and ice

uzorke vode i leda

specifically to see if things called extremophiles,

da provere da li ekstremofili,

tiny lifeforms that are evolved to live in completely hostile conditions,

mali organizmi koji su se prilagodili lošim uslovima,

might be living under the ice,

mogu da žive pod ledom,

kind of like what they hope to find on the polar icecaps of Mars someday.

kao da se nadaju da će jednog dana na Marsu naći polarne kape.

Another really cool things is that,

Zanimljivo je i to što,

as seeds and birds land on the surface of the glacier and die,

kada se seme ili ptice spuste na površinu glečera pa uginu,

they get buried in the snow

oni porinu u sneg

and gradually become part of the glacier,

i na kraju postanu deo njega,

sinking deeper and deeper into the ice.

tonući sve dublje i dublje.

As these caves form and melt their way up into the ice,

Topljenjem i formiranjem pećina,

they make these artifacts rain down from the ceiling

takvi artefakti se sliju kroz tavanicu

and fall onto the cave floor, where we end up finding them.

i padnu na pod, gde ih mi na kraju nađemo.

For example, this is a noble fir seed we found.

Pronašli smo npr. ovo seme plave jele.

It's been frozen in the ice for over 100 years,

Zaleđeno je preko 100 godina,

and it's just now starting to sprout.

i tek sada počinje da klija.

This mallard duck feather

Ovo pero divlje patke

was found over 1,800 feet in the back of Snow Dragon Cave.

pronađeno je na udaljenosti od pola kilometra u Zmajevoj pećini.

This duck died on the surface of the glacier long, long ago,

Patka je davno uginula na površini glečera

and its feathers have finally made it down through over 100 feet of ice

i njeno perje je prošlo kroz 30m leda

before falling inside the cave.

dok nije upalo u pećinu.

And this beautiful quartz crystal

A ovaj divni kvarcni kristal

was also found in the back of Snow Dragon.

je pronađen na kraju Snežnog zmaja.

Even now, Brent and I find it hard to believe

Brent i ja još ne možemo da verujemo

that all these discoveries were essentially in our own backyard,

da smo sve te stvari otkrili praktično na sopstvenom pragu,

hidden away, just waiting to be found.

kao da su tako skrivene samo čekale da budu pronađene.

Like I said earlier, the idea of discovering

Kao što sam već rekao, otkrivanje

in this busy world we live in

u ovom užurbanom svetu u kome živimo

kind of seems like something you can only do with space travel now,

čini se da je poput putovanja svemirom,

but that's not true.

što nije istina.

Every year, new caves get discovered

Svake godine se otkriju nove pećine

that no one has ever been in before.

koje niko do tad nije video.

So it's actually not too late for one of you

Još nije kasno da i vi

to become a discoverer yourself.

postanete istraživači.

You just have to be willing to look

Treba samo da budete voljni da zavirite

and go where people don't often go

i kročite na mesta gde ljudi obično ne idu

and focus your eyes and your mind

i da oči i um usredsredite

to recognize the discovery when you see it,

na prepoznavanje pravog otkrića,

because it might be in your own backyard.

jer ona mogu ležati na vašem kućnom pragu.

Thank you very much.

Hvala.

(Applause)

(Aplauz)