Ben Saunders: To the South Pole and back — the hardest 105 days of my life

85,682 views ・ 2014-12-02

TED


Please double-click on the English subtitles below to play the video.

Prevodilac: Mile Živković Lektor: Anja Saric
00:12
So in the oasis of intelligentsia that is TED,
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Dakle u TED-u, koji je jezgro inteligencije,
00:18
I stand here before you this evening
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stojim večeras pred vama
00:21
as an expert in dragging heavy stuff around cold places.
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u ulozi stručnjaka za tegljenje teških stvari po hladnim mestima.
00:27
I've been leading polar expeditions for most of my adult life,
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Veći deo svojih zrelih godina predvodio sam polarne ekspedicije
00:30
and last month, my teammate Tarka L'Herpiniere and I
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i prošlog meseca, moj kolega Tarka Lerpinijer i ja
00:33
finished the most ambitious expedition I've ever attempted.
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završili smo najambiciozniju ekspediciju koju sam ikada pokušao.
00:39
In fact, it feels like I've been transported straight here
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Zapravo, imam osećaj da sam pravo ovde bio transportovan
00:42
from four months in the middle of nowhere,
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iz četiri meseca provedenih u nedođiji,
00:44
mostly grunting and swearing, straight to the TED stage.
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mahom uz gunđanje i psovke, pravo na TED binu.
00:49
So you can imagine that's a transition that hasn't been entirely seamless.
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Možete pretpostaviti da to nije bila baš glatka promena.
00:53
One of the interesting side effects
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Jedna od zanimljivih nuspojava je
00:55
seems to be that my short-term memory is entirely shot.
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da mi je kratkotrajno pamćenje izgleda potpuno otišlo.
00:58
So I've had to write some notes
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Pa sam morao da nažvrljam neke tezice
01:00
to avoid too much grunting and swearing in the next 17 minutes.
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da izbegnem mnogo gunđanja i psovanja u narednih 17 minuta.
01:05
This is the first talk I've given about this expedition,
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Ovo je prvi govor koji držim o ovoj ekspediciji,
01:08
and while we weren't sequencing genomes or building space telescopes,
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i iako nismo ispisivali genome ili pravili svemirske teleskope,
01:13
this is a story about giving everything we had to achieve something
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ovo je priča o tome kako smo dali sve što imamo da postignemo
01:18
that hadn't been done before.
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nešto što do sada niko nije uradio.
01:20
So I hope in that you might find some food for thought.
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Pa se nadam da ćete možda pronaći materijal za razmišljanje.
01:24
It was a journey, an expedition in Antarctica,
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Bio je to put, ekspedicija, na Antarktik,
01:28
the coldest, windiest, driest and highest altitude continent on Earth.
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najhladniji, najvetrovitiji, najsuvlji i najviši kontinent u Evropi.
01:32
It's a fascinating place. It's a huge place.
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To je fascinantno mesto. Ogromno mesto.
01:34
It's twice the size of Australia,
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Duplo je veći od Australije,
01:37
a continent that is the same size as China and India put together.
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kontinent koji je veličine Kine i Indije zajedno.
01:42
As an aside, I have experienced
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Da dodam, iskusio sam
01:44
an interesting phenomenon in the last few days,
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zanimljivu pojavu u poslednjih nekoliko dana,
01:46
something that I expect Chris Hadfield may get at TED in a few years' time,
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nešto što očekujem da se desi Krisu Hedfildu na TED-u za koju godinu,
01:50
conversations that go something like this:
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razgovori koji teku otprilike ovako:
01:52
"Oh, Antarctica. Awesome.
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"O, Antarktik. Strava.
01:53
My husband and I did Antarctica with Lindblad for our anniversary."
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Suprug i ja smo odradili Antarktik i Lindblad za godišnjicu braka."
01:59
Or, "Oh cool, did you go there for the marathon?"
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Ili: "O, kul, bio si tamo na maratonu?"
02:02
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
02:06
Our journey was, in fact, 69 marathons back to back
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Naš put je, zapravo, bio kao 69 spojenih maratona
02:10
in 105 days, an 1,800-mile round trip on foot from the coast of Antarctica
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u 105 dana, povratni put dug 1800 milja, pešaka, od obale Antarktika
02:16
to the South Pole and back again.
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do Južnog pola i nazad.
02:19
In the process, we broke the record
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Usput smo oborili rekord
02:21
for the longest human-powered polar journey in history by more than 400 miles.
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najdužeg ljudskog polarnog putovanja u istoriji, za više od 400 milja.
02:27
(Applause)
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(Aplauz)
02:31
For those of you from the Bay Area,
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Za vas iz Zaliva,
02:33
it was the same as walking from here to San Francisco,
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to je kao da hodate odavde do San Franciska,
02:38
then turning around and walking back again.
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a onda se okrenete i vratite se.
02:40
So as camping trips go, it was a long one,
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Ako pričamo o kampovanju, bilo je baš dugačko,
02:45
and one I've seen summarized most succinctly here
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i sumirao sam ga veoma koncizno
02:48
on the hallowed pages of Business Insider Malaysia.
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na svetim stranama malezijskog "Biznis insajdera".
02:52
["Two Explorers Just Completed A Polar Expedition That Killed Everyone The Last Time It Was Attempted"]
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["Dva polarna istraživača završila put na kome su poslednjeg puta svi stradali"]
02:58
Chris Hadfield talked so eloquently
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Kris Hedfild je tako rečito govorio
03:00
about fear and about the odds of success, and indeed the odds of survival.
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o strahu i o šansama za uspeh, i zaista, o šansama da preživite.
03:06
Of the nine people in history that had attempted this journey before us,
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Od devet ljudi koji su pokušali ovo putovanje pre nas,
03:10
none had made it to the pole and back,
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niko nije stigao do pola i nazad,
03:12
and five had died in the process.
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a petoro ih je umrlo dok su pokušavali.
03:16
This is Captain Robert Falcon Scott.
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Ovo je kapetan Robert Falkon Skot.
03:19
He led the last team to attempt this expedition.
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Vodio je poslednji tim koji je pokušao ovu ekspediciju.
03:22
Scott and his rival Sir Ernest Shackleton,
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Skot i njegov protivnik, ser Ernest Šeklton,
03:24
over the space of a decade,
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u rasponu od decenije,
03:27
both led expeditions battling to become the first to reach the South Pole,
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vodili su ekspedicije koje su se borile da budu prve na Južnom polu,
03:31
to chart and map the interior of Antarctica,
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da iscrtaju i stave na mapu unutrašnjost Antarktika,
03:34
a place we knew less about, at the time,
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mesto o kojem smo tada znali manje
03:36
than the surface of the moon,
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nego o površini meseca,
03:38
because we could see the moon through telescopes.
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jer smo mesec mogli da vidimo kroz teleskope.
03:40
Antarctica was, for the most part, a century ago, uncharted.
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Veći deo Antarktika je pre jednog veka bio neistražen.
03:44
Some of you may know the story.
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Neki od vas možda znaju priču.
03:46
Scott's last expedition, the Terra Nova Expedition in 1910,
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Skotova poslednja ekspedicija, Tera nova iz 1910. godine,
03:49
started as a giant siege-style approach.
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počela je kao veliki poduhvat nalik opsadi.
03:51
He had a big team using ponies,
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Imao je veliki tim koji je koristio ponije,
03:54
using dogs, using petrol-driven tractors,
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pse, traktore na benzin,
03:56
dropping multiple, pre-positioned depots of food and fuel
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ispuštao višestruke isplanirane depoe hrane i goriva
04:00
through which Scott's final team of five would travel to the Pole,
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kroz koje bi Skotov konačni petočlani tim prošao na putu do pola,
04:03
where they would turn around and ski back to the coast again on foot.
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gde bi se okrenuli i na skijama se, peške, vratili do obale.
04:07
Scott and his final team of five
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Skot i preostala petorica
04:09
arrived at the South Pole in January 1912
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stigli su na Južni pol januara 1912. godine
04:13
to find they had been beaten to it by a Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen,
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da bi saznali da ih je pretekao norveški tim Roalda Amundsena;
04:18
who rode on dogsled.
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koji je vozio saonice sa psima.
04:19
Scott's team ended up on foot.
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Skotov tim završio je peške.
04:21
And for more than a century this journey has remained unfinished.
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I više od veka, ovaj put je ostao nezavršen.
04:26
Scott's team of five died on the return journey.
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Skotov petočlani tim je umro u povratku.
04:29
And for the last decade,
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I protekle decenije,
04:31
I've been asking myself why that is.
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pitao sam se zašto.
04:34
How come this has remained the high-water mark?
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Kako da je to ostao vrhunac?
04:38
Scott's team covered 1,600 miles on foot.
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Skotov tim je prepešačio 2570 kilometara.
04:40
No one's come close to that ever since.
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Niko od tada nije došao ni blizu.
04:42
So this is the high-water mark of human endurance,
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Znači, ovo je vrhunac ljudske izdržljivosti,
04:45
human endeavor, human athletic achievement
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ljudskih napora, ljudskog atletskog dostignuća
04:47
in arguably the harshest climate on Earth.
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u verovatno najokrutnijoj klimi na Zemlji.
04:50
It was as if the marathon record
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Kao da je rekord za maraton
04:53
has remained unbroken since 1912.
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neoboren od 1912.
04:56
And of course some strange and predictable combination of curiosity,
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I naravno, neka čudna i predvidiva kombinacija znatiželje,
05:01
stubbornness, and probably hubris
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tvrdoglavosti i verovatno arogancije,
05:03
led me to thinking I might be the man to try to finish the job.
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naterala me je da mislim da mogu biti taj koji će završiti posao.
05:07
Unlike Scott's expedition, there were just two of us,
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Za razliku od Skotove ekspedicije, bili smo samo nas dvojica,
05:10
and we set off from the coast of Antarctica in October last year,
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i krenuli smo sa obale Antarktika u oktobru prošle godine,
05:13
dragging everything ourselves,
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tegleći sve sami,
05:16
a process Scott called "man-hauling."
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proces koji je Skot nazivao "ljudska vuča".
05:18
When I say it was like walking from here to San Francisco and back,
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Kada kažem da je to kao pešačiti do San Franciska i nazad,
05:21
I actually mean it was like dragging something that weighs a shade more
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zapravo mislim - kao vući nešto za dlaku teže
05:25
than the heaviest ever NFL player.
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od najtežeg igrača američkog fudbala.
05:27
Our sledges weighed 200 kilos,
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Naše saonice su težile 200 kilograma,
05:29
or 440 pounds each at the start,
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odnosno, na početku, 440 funti svaka,
05:32
the same weights that the weakest of Scott's ponies pulled.
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iste težine koje je vukao najslabiji Skotov poni.
05:37
Early on, we averaged 0.5 miles per hour.
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Na početku, u proseku smo prelazili 0,8 kilometara na sat.
05:40
Perhaps the reason no one had attempted this journey until now,
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Možda se niko do sada nije odvažio na ovaj put,
05:43
in more than a century,
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već duže od veka,
05:45
was that no one had been quite stupid enough to try.
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zato što niko nije bio dovoljno lud da pokuša.
05:50
And while I can't claim we were exploring
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Iako ne mogu da tvrdim da smo istraživali
05:52
in the genuine Edwardian sense of the word —
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u pravom edvardijanskom smislu te reči -
05:55
we weren't naming any mountains or mapping any uncharted valleys —
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nismo krstili planine ni ucrtavali neistražene doline na mape -
05:59
I think we were stepping into uncharted territory in a human sense.
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mislim da smo zagazili u neistražene predele u ljudskom smislu.
06:03
Certainly, if in the future we learn there is an area of the human brain
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Svakako, ako u budućnosti saznamo da postoji deo ljudskog mozga
06:06
that lights up when one curses oneself,
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koji se pali kada psuješ sam sebe,
06:10
I won't be at all surprised.
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neću se uopšte iznenaditi.
06:13
You've heard that the average American spends 90 percent of their time indoors.
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Čuli ste da prosečan Amerikanac provodi 90 odsto vremena u zatvorenom prostoru.
06:17
We didn't go indoors for nearly four months.
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Mi smo bili napolju skoro četiri meseca.
06:21
We didn't see a sunset either.
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Nismo videli ni zalazak sunca.
06:23
It was 24-hour daylight.
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24 sata je bio dan.
06:25
Living conditions were quite spartan.
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Životni uslovi su bili prilično spartanski.
06:27
I changed my underwear three times in 105 days
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U 105 dana, gaće sam presvukao tri puta
06:32
and Tarka and I shared 30 square feet on the canvas.
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a Tarka i ja smo delili 2,7 kvadratnih metara platna.
06:36
Though we did have some technology that Scott could never have imagined.
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Mada, imali smo tehnologiju koju Skot ne bi nikada ni zamislio.
06:40
And we blogged live every evening from the tent via a laptop
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Svako veče smo uživo blogovali iz šatora, preko laptopa
06:44
and a custom-made satellite transmitter,
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i posebno urađenog satelitskog odašiljača,
06:46
all of which were solar-powered:
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a sve to na solarni pogon:
06:48
we had a flexible photovoltaic panel over the tent.
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prilagodljiv fotonaponski panel bio je nad šatorom.
06:50
And the writing was important to me.
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I pisanje mi je bilo važno.
06:53
As a kid, I was inspired by the literature of adventure and exploration,
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Kao malog, inspirisala me je avanturistička i istraživačka književnost,
07:00
and I think we've all seen here this week
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i mislim da smo svi ove nedelje ovde videli
07:03
the importance and the power of storytelling.
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važnost i moć priče.
07:07
So we had some 21st-century gear,
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Dakle, imali smo opremu 21. veka,
07:09
but the reality is that the challenges that Scott faced
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ali u stvarnosti, izazovi sa kojima se Skot suočavao
07:11
were the same that we faced:
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bili su i naši:
07:13
those of the weather and of what Scott called glide,
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vremenski uslovi i ono što je Skot nazivao klizanje,
07:17
the amount of friction between the sledges and the snow.
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količina trenja između saonica i snega.
07:20
The lowest wind chill we experienced was in the -70s,
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Najhladniji vetar koji smo iskusili bio je od oko minus 70-ak stepeni,
07:24
and we had zero visibility, what's called white-out,
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a vidljivost je bila na nuli, ono što se zove belinom,
07:27
for much of our journey.
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većinu putovanja.
07:30
We traveled up and down one of the largest
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Putovali smo uzduž i popreko jednim od najvećih
07:32
and most dangerous glaciers in the world, the Beardmore glacier.
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i najopasnijih glečera na svetu, glečerom Birdmor.
07:35
It's 110 miles long; most of its surface is what's called blue ice.
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Dug je 177 kilometara; na većini površine je takozvani plavi led.
07:39
You can see it's a beautiful, shimmering steel-hard blue surface
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Možete videti da je to prelepa, blistava plava površina, tvrda kao čelik
07:42
covered with thousands and thousands of crevasses,
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prekrivena hiljadama i hiljadama pukotina,
07:46
these deep cracks in the glacial ice up to 200 feet deep.
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te duboke naprsline u glečeru sežu i do 60 metara.
07:50
Planes can't land here,
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Tu ne mogu da sleću avioni,
07:52
so we were at the most risk,
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pa smo najviše bili izloženi riziku,
07:55
technically, when we had the slimmest chance of being rescued.
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praktično, kada smo imali najmanje šanse da nas spasu.
08:00
We got to the South Pole after 61 days on foot,
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Stigli smo do Južnog pola nakon 61 dana pešačenja,
08:04
with one day off for bad weather,
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sa danom zakašnjenja zbog lošeg vremena,
08:06
and I'm sad to say, it was something of an anticlimax.
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i žao mi je da kažem, bilo je antiklimaktično.
08:09
There's a permanent American base,
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Postoji stalna američka baza,
08:11
the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station at the South Pole.
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stanica Amundsen-Skot na Južnom polu.
08:15
They have an airstrip, they have a canteen,
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Imaju avionsku pistu, imaju kantinu,
08:16
they have hot showers,
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imaju tuševe sa toplom vodom,
08:18
they have a post office, a tourist shop,
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imaju poštu, suvenirnicu,
08:20
a basketball court that doubles as a movie theater.
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teren za košarku koji je ujedno i bioskopska sala.
08:24
So it's a bit different these days,
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Dakle, ovih dana je malo drugačije,
08:26
and there are also acres of junk.
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a ima i gomila đubreta.
08:27
I think it's a marvelous thing
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Mislim da je čudesna stvar
08:29
that humans can exist 365 days of the year
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to što ljudi mogu da postoje 365 dana u godini
08:34
with hamburgers and hot showers and movie theaters,
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uz hamburgere i vruć tuš i bioskope,
08:38
but it does seem to produce a lot of empty cardboard boxes.
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ali izgleda da posle imamo mnogo praznih kartonskih kutija.
08:40
You can see on the left of this photograph,
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Na levoj strani ove slike možete videti
08:42
several square acres of junk
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više jutara smeća
08:44
waiting to be flown out from the South Pole.
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koju će avionom odneti sa Južnog Pola.
08:46
But there is also a pole at the South Pole,
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Ali i na Južnom polu postoji pol,
08:50
and we got there on foot, unassisted,
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i tamo smo stigli peške, bez podrške,
08:54
unsupported, by the hardest route,
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bez pomoći, najtežom putanjom,
08:55
900 miles in record time,
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1450 kilometara za rekordno vreme,
08:58
dragging more weight than anyone in history.
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vukući više tereta od bilo koga u istoriji.
09:00
And if we'd stopped there and flown home,
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I da smo se tu zaustavili i odleteli kući,
09:02
which would have been the eminently sensible thing to do,
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što bi bilo prilično razumno,
09:05
then my talk would end here
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moj govor bi se ovde završio
09:07
and it would end something like this.
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i to ovako nekako.
09:10
If you have the right team around you, the right tools, the right technology,
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Ako oko sebe imaš pravi tim, pravi alat, pravu tehnologiju,
09:15
and if you have enough self-belief and enough determination,
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i ako imaš dovoljno vere u sebe i dovoljno odlučnosti,
09:19
then anything is possible.
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onda je sve moguće.
09:24
But then we turned around,
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Ali onda smo se okrenuli,
09:27
and this is where things get interesting.
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i tu stvari počinju da budu zanimljive.
09:30
High on the Antarctic plateau,
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Visoko na visoravni Antarktika,
09:32
over 10,000 feet, it's very windy, very cold, very dry, we were exhausted.
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preko 3000 metara, jako je vetrovito, hladno i suvo, bili smo iscrpljeni.
09:36
We'd covered 35 marathons,
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Prešli smo 35 maratona,
09:38
we were only halfway,
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prešli samo pola puta,
09:40
and we had a safety net, of course,
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i, naravno, imali smo sigurnosnu mrežu
09:42
of ski planes and satellite phones
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skijaških aviona i satelitskih telefona
09:44
and live, 24-hour tracking beacons that didn't exist for Scott,
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i svetionika koji vas uživo prate 24 sata koje Skot nije imao,
09:48
but in hindsight,
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ali kada razmislim unazad,
09:50
rather than making our lives easier,
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više nego da nam olakša život,
09:52
the safety net actually allowed us
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sigurnosna mreža nam je zapravo dozvolila
09:54
to cut things very fine indeed,
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da budemo na ivici noža,
09:58
to sail very close to our absolute limits as human beings.
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da jedrimo veoma blizu apsolutnih granica čoveka.
10:02
And it is an exquisite form of torture
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I to je izuzetan oblik mučenja,
10:05
to exhaust yourself to the point of starvation day after day
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iscrpeti sebe do tačke umiranja od gladi dan za danom
10:08
while dragging a sledge full of food.
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dok za sobom vučete saonice pune hrane.
10:12
For years, I'd been writing glib lines in sponsorship proposals
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Godinama sam pisao izlizane fraze potencijalnim sponzorima
10:16
about pushing the limits of human endurance,
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o pomeranju granica ljudske izdržljivosti,
10:19
but in reality, that was a very frightening place to be indeed.
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ali u stvarnosti, veoma je strašno biti u toj poziciji.
10:24
We had, before we'd got to the Pole,
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Pre dolaska na Pol, imali smo
10:26
two weeks of almost permanent headwind, which slowed us down.
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dve nedelje skoro neprekidnog direktnog vetra, što nas je usporavalo.
10:29
As a result, we'd had several days of eating half rations.
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Kao rezultat, nekoliko dana jeli smo pola porcija.
10:32
We had a finite amount of food in the sledges to make this journey,
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Imali smo ograničenu količinu hrane u sankama za ovaj put,
10:34
so we were trying to string that out
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pa smo pokušali da je razvučemo
10:36
by reducing our intake to half the calories we should have been eating.
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smanjujući unos na polovinu kalorija koje treba da pojedemo.
10:40
As a result, we both became increasingly hypoglycemic —
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Kao posledica toga, obojica smo imali hipoglikemiju -
10:44
we had low blood sugar levels day after day —
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danima smo imali nizak nivo šećera u krvi -
10:47
and increasingly susceptible to the extreme cold.
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i neverovatno smo bili podložni ekstremnoj hladnoći.
10:51
Tarka took this photo of me one evening
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Tarka me je jedne večeri slikao ovde
nakon što sam se skoro onesvestio od hipotermije.
10:54
after I'd nearly passed out with hypothermia.
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10:56
We both had repeated bouts of hypothermia, something I hadn't experienced before,
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Obojica smo imali nalete hipotermije, nečega što do tad nismo iskusili
11:01
and it was very humbling indeed.
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i bilo je veoma ponižavajuće.
11:02
As much as you might like to think, as I do,
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Koliko god vi mislili, kao ja,
11:06
that you're the kind of person who doesn't quit,
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da niste takva osoba koja odustaje,
11:08
that you'll go down swinging,
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1994
da ćete otići boreći se,
11:10
hypothermia doesn't leave you much choice.
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hipotermija vam ne ostavlja puno izbora.
11:12
You become utterly incapacitated.
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Postajete potpuno ošamućeni.
11:15
It's like being a drunk toddler.
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To je kao da ste pijano nedonošče.
11:18
You become pathetic.
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Postajete patetični.
11:20
I remember just wanting to lie down and quit.
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Sećam se da sam samo hteo da legnem i odustanem.
11:24
It was a peculiar, peculiar feeling,
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Bio je to jedinstven osećaj,
11:27
and a real surprise to me to be debilitated to that degree.
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i pravo iznenađenje za mene da budem toliko devastiran.
11:32
And then we ran out of food completely,
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Onda nam je potpuno nestalo hrane,
11:36
46 miles short of the first of the depots
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75 kilometara od prve stanice
11:40
that we'd laid on our outward journey.
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koju smo postavili na svom putu do tamo.
11:42
We'd laid 10 depots of food,
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Postavili smo 10 stanica sa hranom,
11:43
literally burying food and fuel, for our return journey —
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bukvalno smo zakopavali hranu i gorivo za povratak -
11:46
the fuel was for a cooker so you could melt snow to get water —
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gorivo je bilo za rešo da bismo topili sneg i dobili vodu -
11:49
and I was forced to make the decision to call for a resupply flight,
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i bio sam primoran da donesem odluku i zatražim avion sa zalihama,
11:55
a ski plane carrying eight days of food to tide us over that gap.
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skijaški avion sa hranom za osam dana kako bismo prebrodili tu rupu.
11:59
They took 12 hours to reach us from the other side of Antarctica.
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Trebalo im je 12 sati da dođu do nas sa druge strane Antarktika.
12:03
Calling for that plane was one of the toughest decisions of my life.
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Kada sam pozvao taj avion, bila je to jedna od najtežih odluka u mom životu.
12:06
And I sound like a bit of a fraud standing here now with a sort of belly.
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Pomalo zvučim kao prevarant, stojeći ovde sa stomačićem.
12:10
I've put on 30 pounds in the last three weeks.
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Ugojio sam se 13 kilograma u poslednje tri nedelje.
12:13
Being that hungry has left an interesting mental scar,
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Tolika glad je na mene ostavila zanimljiv mentalni ožiljak,
12:16
which is that I've been hoovering up every hotel buffet that I can find.
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4607
a to je da sam kao usisivač unosio hranu u svakom hotelu gde sam bio.
12:20
(Laughter)
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(Smeh)
12:22
But we were genuinely quite hungry, and in quite a bad way.
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Ali uopšte smo bili veoma gladni, i to prilično.
12:28
I don't regret calling for that plane for a second,
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Ne žalim ni sekunde što sam zvao taj avion,
12:30
because I'm still standing here alive,
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2002
jer sam još uvek živ i netaknut
12:32
with all digits intact, telling this story.
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i pričam ovu priču.
12:34
But getting external assistance like that was never part of the plan,
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Ali takva pomoć sa strane nikada nije bila deo plana
12:39
and it's something my ego is still struggling with.
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i moj ego se još uvek bori s time.
12:42
This was the biggest dream I've ever had,
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Ovo je najveći san koji sam ikad imao
12:45
and it was so nearly perfect.
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i bio je skoro savršen.
12:48
On the way back down to the coast,
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U povratku do obale,
12:50
our crampons — they're the spikes on our boots
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naši kramponi - šiljci na čizmama
12:52
that we have for traveling over this blue ice on the glacier —
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za putovanje preko plavog leda na glečeru -
12:55
broke on the top of the Beardmore.
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polomili su se na vrhu Birdmora.
12:57
We still had 100 miles to go downhill
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Još uvek smo ima 160 kilometara nizbrdo
12:59
on very slippery rock-hard blue ice.
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na veoma čvrstom i klizavom plavom ledu.
13:01
They needed repairing almost every hour.
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Skoro svakog sata smo morali da ih popravljamo.
13:03
To give you an idea of scale,
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Čisto razmere radi,
13:05
this is looking down towards the mouth of the Beardmore Glacier.
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ovo je pogled ka grotlu glečera Birdmor.
13:08
You could fit the entirety of Manhattan in the gap on the horizon.
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U šupljinu na horizontu mogli ste smestiti ceo Menhetn.
13:12
That's 20 miles between Mount Hope and Mount Kiffin.
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To je 32 kilometra između planina Houp i Kifin.
13:15
I've never felt as small as I did in Antarctica.
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Nikada se nisam osećao tako malo kao na Antarktiku.
13:21
When we got down to the mouth of the glacier,
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Kada smo se spustili do grotla glečera,
13:23
we found fresh snow had obscured the dozens of deep crevasses.
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otkrili smo da je svež sneg prikrio desetine dubokih šupljina.
13:28
One of Shackleton's men described crossing this sort of terrain
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Jedan od Šekltonovih ljudi opisao je prelazak ovakvog terena
13:31
as like walking over the glass roof of a railway station.
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kao hodanje preko staklenog krova na železničkoj stanici.
13:36
We fell through more times than I can remember,
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Propali smo toliko puta da ne mogu ni da se setim,
13:39
usually just putting a ski or a boot through the snow.
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obično samo stavljanjem skije ili čizme kroz sneg.
13:42
Occasionally we went in all the way up to our armpits,
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Povremeno bismo upali sve do pazuha,
13:45
but thankfully never deeper than that.
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ali srećom, nikada više od toga.
13:48
And less than five weeks ago, after 105 days,
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I pre manje od pet nedelja, nakon 105 dana,
13:52
we crossed this oddly inauspicious finish line,
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prešli smo neverovatno zlokobni cilj,
13:56
the coast of Ross Island on the New Zealand side of Antarctica.
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obalu ostrva Ros sa strane Antarktika ka Novom Zelandu.
13:59
You can see the ice in the foreground
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U prvom planu možete videti sneg
14:01
and the sort of rubbly rock behind that.
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i stene iza.
14:04
Behind us lay an unbroken ski trail of nearly 1,800 miles.
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Iza nas je neisprekidana skijaška staza od skoro 2900 kilometara.
14:08
We'd made the longest ever polar journey on foot,
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Prošli smo najduže polarno putovanje peške,
14:10
something I'd been dreaming of doing for a decade.
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o čemu sam sanjao deceniju.
14:15
And looking back,
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2015
Gledajući unazad,
14:17
I still stand by all the things
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još uvek stojim iza stvari
14:19
I've been saying for years
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1582
koje sam godinama govorio
14:21
about the importance of goals
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2119
o važnosti ciljeva
14:23
and determination and self-belief,
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i odlučnosti i veri u sebe
14:26
but I'll also admit that I hadn't given much thought to what happens
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4711
ali priznajem da nisam puno razmišljao o tome šta se dešava
14:31
when you reach the all-consuming goal
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kada dođete do cilja koji vas obuzima
14:35
that you've dedicated most of your adult life to,
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i kome ste posvetili većinu odraslog života
14:38
and the reality is that I'm still figuring that bit out.
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i zapravo još uvek razabiram taj deo.
14:42
As I said, there are very few superficial signs that I've been away.
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Kao što sam rekao, postoji mali broj površnih znakova da sam otišao.
14:45
I've put on 30 pounds.
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Ugojio sam se 14 kilograma.
14:47
I've got some very faint, probably covered in makeup now, frostbite scars.
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Imam veoma blage ožiljke od promrzlina, koji su sada verovatno prekriveni šminkom.
14:50
I've got one on my nose, one on each cheek, from where the goggles are,
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Jedan na nosu, po jedan na obrazima, od naočari,
14:54
but inside I am a very different person indeed.
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ali iznutra sam veoma drugačija osoba.
14:59
If I'm honest,
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Da budem iskren,
15:01
Antarctica challenged me and humbled me so deeply
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Antarktik me je izazvao i učinio tako skromnim
15:06
that I'm not sure I'll ever be able to put it into words.
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da nisam siguran da ću ikada moći to da predstavim rečima.
15:10
I'm still struggling to piece together my thoughts.
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Još uvek se borim da saberem misli.
15:14
That I'm standing here telling this story
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3645
To što stojim ovde i iznosim ovu priču
15:18
is proof that we all can accomplish great things,
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dokaz je da svi možemo da postignemo velike stvari,
15:23
through ambition, through passion,
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kroz ambiciju, strast,
15:25
through sheer stubbornness,
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2162
puku tvrdoglavost,
15:27
by refusing to quit,
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1515
odbijajući da odustanemo,
15:28
that if you dream something hard enough, as Sting said,
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da ako nešto sanjate dovoljno jako, kao što je rekao Sting,
15:31
it does indeed come to pass.
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to se zaista i ostvari.
15:34
But I'm also standing here saying, you know what,
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Ali ovde stojim i govorim, znate šta,
15:38
that cliche about the journey being more important than the destination?
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taj kliše da je putovanje bitnije od odredišta?
15:44
There's something in that.
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Ima nečega u tome.
15:47
The closer I got to my finish line,
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Što sam bliži bio svom cilju,
15:49
that rubbly, rocky coast of Ross Island,
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krševitoj, stenovitoj obali ostrva Ros,
15:53
the more I started to realize that the biggest lesson
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sve sam više shvatao da je najveća lekcija
15:56
that this very long, very hard walk might be teaching me
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kojoj me je naučila ova veoma duga i teška šetnja
16:01
is that happiness is not a finish line,
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je da sreća nije u odredištu,
16:05
that for us humans,
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da je za nas ljude
16:06
the perfection that so many of us seem to dream of
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to savršenstvo o kojima mnogi sanjamo
16:10
might not ever be truly attainable,
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možda zapravo nedostižno,
16:14
and that if we can't feel content here, today, now, on our journeys
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i da ako ne možemo biti zadovoljni ovde, danas, sada, na svojim putovanjima,
16:22
amidst the mess and the striving that we all inhabit,
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u neredu i težnji koja nas sve prožima,
16:27
the open loops, the half-finished to-do lists,
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sa otvorenim petljama, poluzavršenim spiskovima,
16:29
the could-do-better-next-times,
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osećanjem da će drugi put biti bolje,
16:32
then we might never feel it.
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onda to nikad nećemo osetiti.
16:36
A lot of people have asked me, what next?
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Mnogi su me pitali, a šta sada?
16:39
Right now, I am very happy just recovering and in front of hotel buffets.
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Sada sam veoma srećan da se oporavljam u hotelskim restoranima.
16:46
But as Bob Hope put it,
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Ali kao što reče Bob Houp,
16:50
I feel very humble,
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osećam se veoma skromno,
16:53
but I think I have the strength of character to fight it. (Laughter)
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ali mislim da imam snage i karaktera da se borim protiv toga. (Smeh)
16:57
Thank you.
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Hvala vam.
16:59
(Applause)
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(Aplauz)
About this website

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