Ben Saunders: To the South Pole and back — the hardest 105 days of my life
85,501 views ・ 2014-12-02
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譯者: Marssi Draw
審譯者: Regina Chu
00:12
So in the oasis of
intelligentsia that is TED,
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身在知識份子界的綠洲 ──TED,
00:18
I stand here before you this evening
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今晚我來到各位面前,
00:21
as an expert in dragging heavy
stuff around cold places.
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以拖著笨重物周遊
寒冷地區的專家之姿站在台上。
00:27
I've been leading polar expeditions
for most of my adult life,
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我成年之後就一直帶領極地遠征隊,
00:30
and last month, my teammate
Tarka L'Herpiniere and I
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上個月,我和夥伴塔卡.雷聶尼爾
00:33
finished the most ambitious
expedition I've ever attempted.
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完成了我到目前為止
最具企圖心的遠征。
00:39
In fact, it feels like I've been
transported straight here
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其實我感覺好像直接被送來這裡,
00:42
from four months in the middle of nowhere,
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在偏遠的某處度過悶哼使勁、
詛咒連連的四個月之後,
00:44
mostly grunting and swearing,
straight to the TED stage.
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直接上了 TED 舞台。
00:49
So you can imagine that's a transition
that hasn't been entirely seamless.
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你可以說這個過渡期
並非完全無縫接軌。
00:53
One of the interesting side effects
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有個很有趣的副作用
00:55
seems to be that my short-term
memory is entirely shot.
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就是我的短期記憶似乎全都一閃而過。
00:58
So I've had to write some notes
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所以我得做小抄
01:00
to avoid too much grunting and swearing
in the next 17 minutes.
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免得接下來的 17 分鐘
有太多悶哼聲與詛咒。
01:05
This is the first talk I've given
about this expedition,
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這是我在這趟遠征後的首次演說,
01:08
and while we weren't sequencing genomes
or building space telescopes,
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儘管我們不是做了基因定序
或架設太空望遠鏡,
01:13
this is a story about giving everything
we had to achieve something
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但這段故事也是關於我們放棄一切
去達成前所未有的事。
01:18
that hadn't been done before.
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01:20
So I hope in that you might
find some food for thought.
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希望你們能從中獲得一些精神糧食。
01:24
It was a journey, an
expedition in Antarctica,
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這趟遠征南極洲的旅程
01:28
the coldest, windiest, driest and
highest altitude continent on Earth.
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是在地球上最冷、風最大、
最乾燥,海拔也最高的洲。
01:32
It's a fascinating place.
It's a huge place.
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那是很棒、很大的地方。
01:34
It's twice the size of Australia,
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比澳洲大兩倍,
01:37
a continent that is the same size
as China and India put together.
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就跟中國和印度加起來一樣大。
01:42
As an aside, I have experienced
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順帶一提,最近幾天
我經歷了一種很有意思的現象,
01:44
an interesting phenomenon
in the last few days,
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01:46
something that I expect Chris Hadfield
may get at TED in a few years' time,
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我預料幾年後克里斯.哈德菲爾德
也會在 TED 經歷到
01:50
conversations that go something like this:
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像這樣的對話:
01:52
"Oh, Antarctica. Awesome.
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「哇!南極洲,真棒!
01:53
My husband and I did Antarctica
with Lindblad for our anniversary."
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我和老公結婚四週年的時候
參加領步探險去過南極洲。」
01:59
Or, "Oh cool, did you go there
for the marathon?"
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或是「酷耶!你是去跑馬拉松嗎?」
02:02
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
02:06
Our journey was, in fact,
69 marathons back to back
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我們的旅程其實就是
連續 69 趟馬拉松,
02:10
in 105 days, an 1,800-mile round trip
on foot from the coast of Antarctica
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105 天徒步走完來回 1,800 哩路,
從南極海岸到南極點,再回頭。
02:16
to the South Pole and back again.
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02:19
In the process, we broke the record
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這趟路我們打破記錄
02:21
for the longest human-powered polar
journey in history by more than 400 miles.
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比史上用人力完成的
最長極地旅程還長 400 哩。
02:27
(Applause)
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(掌聲)
02:31
For those of you from the Bay Area,
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對在座住灣區的人來說,
02:33
it was the same as walking from
here to San Francisco,
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這段路就等於從這裡走到舊金山,
02:38
then turning around
and walking back again.
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然後再走回去。
02:40
So as camping trips go, it was a long one,
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以露營旅行來說,這是長途旅行,
02:45
and one I've seen summarized
most succinctly here
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我看過最簡潔的說法
02:48
on the hallowed pages
of Business Insider Malaysia.
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是出現在《馬來西亞商業內幕》
神聖的一頁裡。
02:52
["Two Explorers Just Completed A Polar Expedition
That Killed Everyone The Last Time It Was Attempted"]
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「兩名探險家完成極地遠征
前次挑戰探險隊無一生還」
02:58
Chris Hadfield talked so eloquently
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克里斯.哈德菲爾德說得很清楚,
03:00
about fear and about the odds of success,
and indeed the odds of survival.
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他談到恐懼、成功的機率,
還有存活的機率。
03:06
Of the nine people in history that had
attempted this journey before us,
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在我們之前,
史上有九個人嘗試這趟旅程,
03:10
none had made it to the pole and back,
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沒有人成功往返南極點,
03:12
and five had died in the process.
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其中五人在路上過世了。
03:16
This is Captain Robert Falcon Scott.
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這是羅伯特.法爾肯.史考特上尉,
03:19
He led the last team
to attempt this expedition.
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他帶領前次遠征。
03:22
Scott and his rival Sir Ernest Shackleton,
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史考特和對手歐內斯特.沙克爾頓爵士
03:24
over the space of a decade,
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在十年之間
03:27
both led expeditions battling to become
the first to reach the South Pole,
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都帶著遠征隊,
爭著想成為抵達南極的第一人,
03:31
to chart and map
the interior of Antarctica,
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並繪製南極洲的地圖,
03:34
a place we knew less about, at the time,
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在當時南極是鮮為人知的地方,
03:36
than the surface of the moon,
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比月球表面還神秘,
03:38
because we could see
the moon through telescopes.
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因為我們至少能透過
望遠鏡來看月球。
03:40
Antarctica was, for the most part,
a century ago, uncharted.
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南極洲大部分在百年前的
地圖上都還沒標出來。
03:44
Some of you may know the story.
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在座可能有人知道這個故事。
03:46
Scott's last expedition, the
Terra Nova Expedition in 1910,
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史考特最後一次遠征,
1910 年的新世界遠征隊,
03:49
started as a giant
siege-style approach.
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以大型極地遠征法啟程。
03:51
He had a big team using ponies,
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浩蕩的隊伍用小馬、狗
03:54
using dogs, using petrol-driven tractors,
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和汽油發動的拖拉機
03:56
dropping multiple, pre-positioned
depots of food and fuel
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在預選的補給站卸下食物和燃料,
04:00
through which Scott's final team of five
would travel to the Pole,
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因此史考特的五人小隊
才能抵達南極點,
04:03
where they would turn around and ski
back to the coast again on foot.
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隨後滑雪、徒步回到岸邊。
04:07
Scott and his final team of five
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史考特和最後的五人小隊
04:09
arrived at the South Pole
in January 1912
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1912 年一月抵達南極點的時候,
04:13
to find they had been beaten to it
by a Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen,
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才發現羅爾德.亞孟森
帶領的挪威探險隊已打敗他們,
04:18
who rode on dogsled.
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而且他們是駕狗拉雪橇。
04:19
Scott's team ended up on foot.
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史考特隊以徒步告結。
04:21
And for more than a century
this journey has remained unfinished.
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一百多年來,還沒有人完成這趟旅程。
04:26
Scott's team of five died
on the return journey.
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史考特的五人小隊
在回程途中全軍覆沒。
04:29
And for the last decade,
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近十年來,
04:31
I've been asking myself why that is.
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我一直不斷問自己為什麼會這樣。
04:34
How come this has remained
the high-water mark?
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為什麼到現在仍難以實現?
04:38
Scott's team covered 1,600 miles on foot.
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史考特隊伍徒步走了 1,600 哩,
04:40
No one's come close to that ever since.
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從此之後無人能及。
04:42
So this is the high-water mark
of human endurance,
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因此這可以說是人類
在地球上最嚴酷的氣候中
04:45
human endeavor,
human athletic achievement
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04:47
in arguably the harshest climate on Earth.
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所能忍受、努力與體能的極限。
04:50
It was as if the marathon record
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這就好像馬拉松記錄,
04:53
has remained unbroken since 1912.
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從 1912 年到現在
沒人能打破記錄一樣。
04:56
And of course some strange and
predictable combination of curiosity,
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當然混雜著一些奇怪
和料想得到的好奇心與倔強,
05:01
stubbornness, and probably hubris
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也許還有點自大,
05:03
led me to thinking I might be the man
to try to finish the job.
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讓我想也許自己能成為
完成目標的那個人。
05:07
Unlike Scott's expedition,
there were just two of us,
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不像史考特遠征隊,我們只有兩個人,
05:10
and we set off from the coast
of Antarctica in October last year,
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去年十月我們從南極洲海岸出發,
05:13
dragging everything ourselves,
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自己拖全部的東西,
05:16
a process Scott called "man-hauling."
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史考特說這個過程是「人力拖運」。
05:18
When I say it was like walking from
here to San Francisco and back,
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雖然我剛說那就像
從這走到舊金山再回來,
05:21
I actually mean it was like dragging
something that weighs a shade more
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其實是像拉著
比最重的國家聯盟橄欖球員
還重一點的東西。
05:25
than the heaviest ever NFL player.
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05:27
Our sledges weighed 200 kilos,
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我們的雪橇有 200 公斤重,
05:29
or 440 pounds each at the start,
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就是說一開始每個就有 440 磅,
05:32
the same weights that the weakest
of Scott's ponies pulled.
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和史考特最弱的小馬拖的一樣重。
05:37
Early on, we averaged 0.5 miles per hour.
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初期我們平均時速是 0.5 哩。
05:40
Perhaps the reason no one had
attempted this journey until now,
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也許過去沒人嘗試走這趟旅程,
05:43
in more than a century,
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超過一個世紀,
05:45
was that no one had been quite
stupid enough to try.
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是因為沒人會笨到去嘗試。
05:50
And while I can't claim we were exploring
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雖然我無法名正言順地聲稱
05:52
in the genuine Edwardian
sense of the word —
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我們是名符其實的愛德華時代探險,
05:55
we weren't naming any mountains
or mapping any uncharted valleys —
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因為我們沒有命名任何山
或畫出不在地圖上的山谷,
05:59
I think we were stepping into uncharted
territory in a human sense.
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但我想我們踏進了人類未知的領域。
06:03
Certainly, if in the future we learn
there is an area of the human brain
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確實,如果未來我們發現
人腦有個部分
06:06
that lights up when one curses oneself,
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會在你詛咒自己的時候發光,
06:10
I won't be at all surprised.
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我也一點都不驚訝。
06:13
You've heard that the average American
spends 90 percent of their time indoors.
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大家都聽過美國人普遍
有九成時間待在室內,
06:17
We didn't go indoors
for nearly four months.
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我們卻有將近四個月不在室內。
06:21
We didn't see a sunset either.
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我們也沒看到日落,
06:23
It was 24-hour daylight.
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因為太陽 24 小時亮著。
06:25
Living conditions were quite spartan.
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居住環境很艱苦。
06:27
I changed my underwear
three times in 105 days
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105 天裡我才換了三次內衣,
06:32
and Tarka and I shared
30 square feet on the canvas.
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塔卡和我共用不到 30 平方英尺的帆布。
06:36
Though we did have some technology
that Scott could never have imagined.
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不過我們還有些設備
是史考特永遠無法想像的。
06:40
And we blogged live every evening
from the tent via a laptop
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我們每天晚上在帳蓬裡
用筆電寫實況部落格,
06:44
and a custom-made satellite transmitter,
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還有特製的衛星發射器,
06:46
all of which were solar-powered:
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這些全都用太陽能發電,
06:48
we had a flexible photovoltaic
panel over the tent.
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我們有塊彈性光電板在帳篷上。
06:50
And the writing was important to me.
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寫作對我來說很重要,
06:53
As a kid, I was inspired by the
literature of adventure and exploration,
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小時候我就深受冒險與探索文學激勵,
07:00
and I think we've all seen
here this week
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我想這個星期我們都看到了
07:03
the importance and
the power of storytelling.
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說故事的重要性與力量。
07:07
So we had some 21st-century gear,
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我們有 21 世紀的設備,
07:09
but the reality is that the
challenges that Scott faced
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但事實上史考特面臨的挑戰
07:11
were the same that we faced:
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和我們面臨的一樣,
07:13
those of the weather and of
what Scott called glide,
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像是那裡的天氣、史考特所說的滑行,
07:17
the amount of friction between
the sledges and the snow.
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就是雪橇和雪之間的磨擦力。
07:20
The lowest wind chill
we experienced was in the -70s,
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我們碰過的最低風寒指數是 -70 多,
07:24
and we had zero visibility,
what's called white-out,
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能見度是零,就是一片白朦,
07:27
for much of our journey.
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幾乎全程都是如此。
07:30
We traveled up and down one of the largest
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我們越過世界上最大
07:32
and most dangerous glaciers
in the world, the Beardmore glacier.
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且最危險的冰川之一
──比爾德摩爾冰川。
07:35
It's 110 miles long; most of its surface
is what's called blue ice.
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冰川有 110 哩長,表面大多是藍冰。
07:39
You can see it's a beautiful,
shimmering steel-hard blue surface
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你可以看到那是漂亮、閃亮,
像鋼一樣硬的藍色表面,
07:42
covered with thousands
and thousands of crevasses,
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覆蓋了成千上萬層冰隙,
07:46
these deep cracks in the glacial ice
up to 200 feet deep.
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這些冰川裡的裂縫深達 200 呎。
07:50
Planes can't land here,
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飛機無法在這裡降落,
07:52
so we were at the most risk,
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所以說我們身在風險最大的地方,
07:55
technically, when we had the slimmest
chance of being rescued.
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嚴格說來,我們獲救的機會微乎其微。
08:00
We got to the South Pole
after 61 days on foot,
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徒步走 61 天後我們抵達南極點,
08:04
with one day off for bad weather,
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因為天氣差多休息了一天,
08:06
and I'm sad to say, it was
something of an anticlimax.
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不得不說那真有點掃興。
08:09
There's a permanent American base,
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南極有個常駐的美國基地──
08:11
the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station
at the South Pole.
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阿蒙森—斯科特南極站。
08:15
They have an airstrip,
they have a canteen,
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他們有簡易跑道、餐廳,
08:16
they have hot showers,
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可以洗熱水澡,
08:18
they have a post office, a tourist shop,
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有郵局、紀念品店,
08:20
a basketball court that doubles
as a movie theater.
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還有籃球場兼電影院。
08:24
So it's a bit different these days,
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504091
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所以今非昔比啊!
08:26
and there are also acres of junk.
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不過那裡也有超多垃圾。
08:27
I think it's a marvelous thing
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我覺得很不可思議的是
08:29
that humans can exist
365 days of the year
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人類可以生活一整年
08:34
with hamburgers and hot showers
and movie theaters,
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每天只靠漢堡、熱水澡和電影院,
08:38
but it does seem to produce
a lot of empty cardboard boxes.
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2756
但這似乎會製造很多空紙盒。
08:40
You can see on the left of
this photograph,
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2062
你可以看到照片的左邊
08:42
several square acres of junk
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1435
有幾英畝垃圾
08:44
waiting to be flown out
from the South Pole.
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2513
等著運出南極。
08:46
But there is also a pole at the South Pole,
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4032
但南極也有個極點,
08:50
and we got there on foot, unassisted,
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我們徒步抵達,
毫無援助,走最艱難的路線,
08:54
unsupported, by the hardest route,
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1646
08:55
900 miles in record time,
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用破記錄的時間完成 900 哩,
08:58
dragging more weight
than anyone in history.
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還拖著比史上任何人都還重的東西。
09:00
And if we'd stopped there
and flown home,
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如果我們就此打住,直接飛回家,
09:02
which would have been
the eminently sensible thing to do,
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3134
這樣的決定看起來非常合理,
09:05
then my talk would end here
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1881
那我的演說就會到此告一段落,
09:07
and it would end something like this.
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而且以這樣結尾:
09:10
If you have the right team around you,
the right tools, the right technology,
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如果你和對的團體在一起,
擁有對的工具和科技,
09:15
and if you have enough self-belief
and enough determination,
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如果你有足夠的信念和決心,
09:19
then anything is possible.
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那麼任何事都有可能實現。
09:24
But then we turned around,
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但是後來我們轉身繼續走回程,
09:27
and this is where things get interesting.
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這件事就有點意思了。
09:30
High on the Antarctic plateau,
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在南極高原上,
09:32
over 10,000 feet, it's very windy,
very cold, very dry, we were exhausted.
175
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3999
超過一萬呎,風超大、超冷、
超乾,我們都精疲力盡了。
09:36
We'd covered 35 marathons,
176
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1870
我們已經完成了 35 趟馬拉松,
09:38
we were only halfway,
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但這只完成一半,
09:40
and we had a safety net, of course,
178
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2031
當然我們有安全措施,
09:42
of ski planes and satellite phones
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2124
像是雪地飛機、衛星電話、
09:44
and live, 24-hour tracking beacons
that didn't exist for Scott,
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4053
24 小時即時追蹤信標,
當時史考特可沒有這些東西,
09:48
but in hindsight,
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1742
但事後看來,
09:50
rather than making our lives easier,
182
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2066
與其說能讓生活好過一點,
09:52
the safety net actually allowed us
183
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2159
不如說安全措施讓我們
09:54
to cut things very fine indeed,
184
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3855
能把事情做到最精準,
09:58
to sail very close to our absolute
limits as human beings.
185
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3767
讓我們能完全發揮到人類極限。
10:02
And it is an exquisite form of torture
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3473
這是種最極致的折磨,
10:05
to exhaust yourself to the point
of starvation day after day
187
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2837
日復一日耗盡力氣直到餓扁肚子,
10:08
while dragging a sledge
full of food.
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4262
而且還拉著滿雪橇的食物。
10:12
For years, I'd been writing glib lines
in sponsorship proposals
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3927
幾年來,我總是在
募款計畫上寫些好聽話,
10:16
about pushing the limits
of human endurance,
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3111
說我們要超越人類極限,
10:19
but in reality, that was
a very frightening place to be indeed.
191
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4412
但其實那裡是非常嚇人的地方。
10:24
We had, before we'd got to the Pole,
192
624136
1909
在我們抵達南極點之前,
10:26
two weeks of almost permanent
headwind, which slowed us down.
193
626045
3464
幾乎吹了整整兩週的逆風,
降低了我們的速度。
10:29
As a result, we'd had several days
of eating half rations.
194
629509
2650
結果我們有幾天只能吃一半。
雪橇上讓我們走完整趟路的食物有限,
10:32
We had a finite amount of food
in the sledges to make this journey,
195
632159
2719
10:34
so we were trying to string that out
196
634878
2002
所以我們要試著節省食物,
10:36
by reducing our intake to half
the calories we should have been eating.
197
636880
3913
減半攝取原本應該有的熱量。
10:40
As a result, we both became
increasingly hypoglycemic —
198
640793
3619
結果我們的低血糖日趨嚴重,
10:44
we had low blood sugar
levels day after day —
199
644412
2824
我們的血糖一天天降低,
10:47
and increasingly susceptible
to the extreme cold.
200
647236
4758
而且越來越容易受酷寒天候影響。
10:51
Tarka took this photo of me one evening
201
651994
2103
塔卡有天晚上幫我拍了這張照片,
10:54
after I'd nearly passed out
with hypothermia.
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2130
我才差點因為失溫而暈倒。
10:56
We both had repeated bouts of hypothermia,
something I hadn't experienced before,
203
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4808
我們一次又一次面臨失溫,
這是我以前從沒碰過的事,
11:01
and it was very humbling indeed.
204
661035
1711
真讓人自覺渺小。
11:02
As much as you might
like to think, as I do,
205
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3668
你很可能會有種想法,我也是,
11:06
that you're the kind
of person who doesn't quit,
206
666414
2256
你自認是那種永不放棄的人,
11:08
that you'll go down swinging,
207
668670
1994
你會光榮退場,
11:10
hypothermia doesn't leave you much choice.
208
670664
2252
但失溫讓你毫無選擇。
11:12
You become utterly incapacitated.
209
672916
2810
你會變得很沒用,
11:15
It's like being a drunk toddler.
210
675726
3181
就像是個喝醉的學步幼兒,
11:18
You become pathetic.
211
678907
1973
變得很悲慘。
11:20
I remember just wanting
to lie down and quit.
212
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4119
我記得當時只想躺下,就此放棄。
11:24
It was a peculiar, peculiar feeling,
213
684999
2174
那是種很怪的感覺,
11:27
and a real surprise to me
to be debilitated to that degree.
214
687173
5239
而且累到那個程度也真是嚇到我了。
11:32
And then we ran out of food completely,
215
692412
4482
後來我們吃完了全部的食物,
11:36
46 miles short of the first of the depots
216
696894
3458
離第一個補給站還有 46 哩路,
11:40
that we'd laid on our outward journey.
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700352
1865
我們為出遠門準備了糧食補給站。
11:42
We'd laid 10 depots of food,
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702217
1343
我們準備了 10 個補給站的食物,
11:43
literally burying food and fuel,
for our return journey —
219
703560
2717
基本上就是把回程的
食物和燃料埋起來,
11:46
the fuel was for a cooker so you
could melt snow to get water —
220
706277
3277
燃料是為了煮冰,我們才能有水喝,
11:49
and I was forced to make the decision
to call for a resupply flight,
221
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5807
我被迫決定聯絡補給機,
11:55
a ski plane carrying eight days of food
to tide us over that gap.
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715361
4569
這種雪地飛機會運送八天份食物
讓我們度過難關。
11:59
They took 12 hours to reach us
from the other side of Antarctica.
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719930
3359
他們花了 12 小時
才從南極的另一端找到我們。
12:03
Calling for that plane was one of
the toughest decisions of my life.
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723289
3709
請求飛機支援是
我生命中很困難的決定。
12:06
And I sound like a bit of a fraud
standing here now with a sort of belly.
225
726998
3476
聽起來我就像是個
有大肚腩的騙子站在這裡。
12:10
I've put on 30 pounds
in the last three weeks.
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730474
2840
最近三週我胖了 30 磅。
12:13
Being that hungry has left
an interesting mental scar,
227
733314
3075
那種飢餓在心裡留下了
一種有意思的恐懼,
12:16
which is that I've been hoovering up
every hotel buffet that I can find.
228
736389
4607
讓我四處狂掃每家飯店的
吃到飽自助餐。
12:20
(Laughter)
229
740996
1778
(笑聲)
12:22
But we were genuinely quite hungry,
and in quite a bad way.
230
742774
5694
但是我們真的超餓,完全餓壞了。
12:28
I don't regret calling
for that plane for a second,
231
748468
2441
我從沒後悔向飛機呼救,
12:30
because I'm still standing here alive,
232
750909
2002
因為我還活著,
12:32
with all digits intact,
telling this story.
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2060
十指健全站在這裡說故事。
12:34
But getting external assistance like that
was never part of the plan,
234
754971
4738
但是尋求像那樣的外部援助
完全不在計畫中,
12:39
and it's something my ego
is still struggling with.
235
759709
3204
我的自尊心仍掙扎不已。
12:42
This was the biggest dream I've ever had,
236
762913
3042
這曾是我此生最大的夢想,
12:45
and it was so nearly perfect.
237
765955
2092
差一點就完美了。
12:48
On the way back down to the coast,
238
768967
1681
走回海岸的路上,
12:50
our crampons — they're
the spikes on our boots
239
770648
2191
我們的冰爪──裝在靴子上的釘鞋,
12:52
that we have for traveling
over this blue ice on the glacier —
240
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2926
用來在冰川的藍冰上行走,
12:55
broke on the top of the Beardmore.
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775765
1655
在比爾德摩爾冰川上壞了。
12:57
We still had 100 miles to go downhill
242
777420
1765
下山還有百哩路,
12:59
on very slippery rock-hard blue ice.
243
779185
2234
而且是走在很滑,硬如石頭的藍冰。
13:01
They needed repairing almost every hour.
244
781419
2391
釘鞋幾乎每小時都要修理一次。
13:03
To give you an idea of scale,
245
783810
1951
讓你更了解狀況,
13:05
this is looking down towards the mouth
of the Beardmore Glacier.
246
785761
2997
這是向下看比爾德摩冰川口的照片。
13:08
You could fit the entirety of Manhattan
in the gap on the horizon.
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788758
3475
你可以在地平線上的這個缺口
塞進整個曼哈頓。
13:12
That's 20 miles between
Mount Hope and Mount Kiffin.
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3214
這是在霍普山和奇芬山之間的 20 哩路。
13:15
I've never felt as small
as I did in Antarctica.
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795447
6233
在南極讓我感覺前所未有的渺小。
13:21
When we got down
to the mouth of the glacier,
250
801680
2105
我們走到冰河口的時候,
13:23
we found fresh snow had obscured
the dozens of deep crevasses.
251
803785
4646
發現剛下的雪已經覆蓋了
許多深長的冰隙。
13:28
One of Shackleton's men described
crossing this sort of terrain
252
808431
2950
沙克爾頓的隊員形容橫越這種地面
13:31
as like walking over the glass roof
of a railway station.
253
811381
4994
就像是走在火車站的玻璃屋頂上。
13:36
We fell through more times
than I can remember,
254
816375
2914
我們掉下去的次數多到我都記不得了,
13:39
usually just putting a ski
or a boot through the snow.
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819289
3432
通常只有雪板或靴子陷下去。
13:42
Occasionally we went in all
the way up to our armpits,
256
822721
2603
但有時候一路陷,直到腋下才停,
13:45
but thankfully never deeper than that.
257
825324
3443
還好沒有陷更深了。
13:48
And less than five weeks ago,
after 105 days,
258
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4180
不到五週前,在出發 105 天後,
13:52
we crossed this oddly
inauspicious finish line,
259
832947
3575
我們穿越這條格外不祥的終點線,
13:56
the coast of Ross Island
on the New Zealand side of Antarctica.
260
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3022
就是南極洲靠紐西蘭那側的羅斯島海岸。
13:59
You can see the ice in the foreground
261
839544
2150
你可以看到冰川前端
14:01
and the sort of rubbly rock behind that.
262
841694
2862
和那後面的碎岩石。
14:04
Behind us lay an unbroken
ski trail of nearly 1,800 miles.
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844556
3802
我們身後的是完好的冰道,
大約 1,800 哩長。
14:08
We'd made the longest ever
polar journey on foot,
264
848358
2508
我們徒步走完最長的極地旅途,
14:10
something I'd been dreaming
of doing for a decade.
265
850866
4390
這是我夢想了十年的事。
14:15
And looking back,
266
855256
2015
回過頭看,
14:17
I still stand by all the things
267
857271
2395
我還信守著
那些我說了好幾年的事,
14:19
I've been saying for years
268
859666
1582
14:21
about the importance of goals
269
861248
2119
那些目標的重要性、
14:23
and determination and self-belief,
270
863367
3442
決心與信念,
14:26
but I'll also admit that I hadn't given
much thought to what happens
271
866809
4711
但我也必須承認,我過去一直沒多想
14:31
when you reach the all-consuming goal
272
871520
3912
當你實現那個全心全意想達成的目標,
14:35
that you've dedicated
most of your adult life to,
273
875432
3318
那個成年後傾全力投入的
目標時會如何,
14:38
and the reality is that I'm
still figuring that bit out.
274
878750
3580
而現實是我還在一點一滴摸索。
14:42
As I said, there are very few
superficial signs that I've been away.
275
882330
3601
就像我剛說的,
表面上沒多少我遠行的跡象。
14:45
I've put on 30 pounds.
276
885931
1451
我胖了 30 磅。
14:47
I've got some very faint, probably
covered in makeup now, frostbite scars.
277
887382
3528
我長了一些很淡的凍瘡,
大概被粧蓋掉了,
14:50
I've got one on my nose, one on
each cheek, from where the goggles are,
278
890910
3473
鼻子上一個,左右臉頰各一個,
從護目鏡那開始長。
14:54
but inside I am a very
different person indeed.
279
894383
4745
但我的內在變成了非常不一樣的人。
14:59
If I'm honest,
280
899128
2497
老實說,
15:01
Antarctica challenged me
and humbled me so deeply
281
901625
5175
南極挑戰我最內在的部分,
讓我深感卑微,
15:06
that I'm not sure I'll ever be able
to put it into words.
282
906800
3703
我不確定自己能用言語表達清楚。
15:10
I'm still struggling to piece
together my thoughts.
283
910503
4100
我還在努力拼湊思緒。
15:14
That I'm standing here
telling this story
284
914603
3645
我站在這裡說這個故事
15:18
is proof that we all can
accomplish great things,
285
918248
4778
證明了我們都能成就大事,
15:23
through ambition, through passion,
286
923026
2154
憑著企圖心、熱情、
15:25
through sheer stubbornness,
287
925180
2162
堅定不移、
15:27
by refusing to quit,
288
927342
1515
和不願放棄,
15:28
that if you dream something
hard enough, as Sting said,
289
928857
2956
只要你的渴望夠強大,
就能像史汀說的,
15:31
it does indeed come to pass.
290
931813
3071
終能實現願望。
15:34
But I'm also standing here
saying, you know what,
291
934884
3346
但我也站在這裡告訴大家,
15:38
that cliche about the journey being
more important than the destination?
292
938230
5981
你知道為什麼陳腔濫調總是說
旅程比目的地還重要嗎?
15:44
There's something in that.
293
944211
3321
裡面有些道理在。
15:47
The closer I got to my finish line,
294
947532
2369
當我越靠近終點線,
15:49
that rubbly, rocky coast of Ross Island,
295
949901
3756
那條羅斯島的碎石岩岸,
15:53
the more I started to realize
that the biggest lesson
296
953657
3194
我開始越能理解,
15:56
that this very long, very hard walk
might be teaching me
297
956851
4580
這趟又長又艱辛的步行
教我最重要的一課
16:01
is that happiness is not
a finish line,
298
961431
3693
是快樂不等於終點線,
16:05
that for us humans,
299
965124
1570
對身為人類的我們來說,
16:06
the perfection that so many of
us seem to dream of
300
966694
3476
大多數人夢想中所謂的完美
16:10
might not ever be truly attainable,
301
970170
4080
也許永遠都無法實現,
16:14
and that if we can't feel content
here, today, now, on our journeys
302
974250
8466
如果我們不能在此地、此時、此刻
滿足於我們的旅程,
16:22
amidst the mess and the striving
that we all inhabit,
303
982716
4468
不能滿足於一團混亂
與努力奮鬥之中的旅程,
16:27
the open loops,
the half-finished to-do lists,
304
987184
2720
不能滿足於充斥想不透做不到的事、
未完成的待辦事項、
16:29
the could-do-better-next-times,
305
989904
2852
和事情下次能做得更好的旅程,
16:32
then we might never feel it.
306
992756
3299
那麼我們也許永遠都不會感到滿足。
16:36
A lot of people have asked me, what next?
307
996055
3576
很多人問我接下來要做什麼?
16:39
Right now, I am very happy just recovering
and in front of hotel buffets.
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現在只要能恢復、站在飯店自助餐前,
我就覺得非常快樂。
16:46
But as Bob Hope put it,
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但就像鮑勃.霍普所說,
16:50
I feel very humble,
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我覺得自己十分卑微,
16:53
but I think I have the strength
of character to fight it. (Laughter)
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但我想我有剛強的性格能起身戰鬥。
(笑聲)
16:57
Thank you.
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謝謝。
16:59
(Applause)
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(掌聲)
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