Ben Saunders: To the South Pole and back — the hardest 105 days of my life

85,682 views ・ 2014-12-02

TED


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譯者: Marssi Draw 審譯者: Regina Chu
00:12
So in the oasis of intelligentsia that is TED,
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身在知識份子界的綠洲 ──TED,
00:18
I stand here before you this evening
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今晚我來到各位面前,
00:21
as an expert in dragging heavy stuff around cold places.
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以拖著笨重物周遊 寒冷地區的專家之姿站在台上。
00:27
I've been leading polar expeditions for most of my adult life,
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我成年之後就一直帶領極地遠征隊,
00:30
and last month, my teammate Tarka L'Herpiniere and I
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上個月,我和夥伴塔卡.雷聶尼爾
00:33
finished the most ambitious expedition I've ever attempted.
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完成了我到目前為止 最具企圖心的遠征。
00:39
In fact, it feels like I've been transported straight here
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其實我感覺好像直接被送來這裡,
00:42
from four months in the middle of nowhere,
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在偏遠的某處度過悶哼使勁、 詛咒連連的四個月之後,
00:44
mostly grunting and swearing, straight to the TED stage.
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直接上了 TED 舞台。
00:49
So you can imagine that's a transition that hasn't been entirely seamless.
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你可以說這個過渡期 並非完全無縫接軌。
00:53
One of the interesting side effects
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有個很有趣的副作用
00:55
seems to be that my short-term memory is entirely shot.
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就是我的短期記憶似乎全都一閃而過。
00:58
So I've had to write some notes
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所以我得做小抄
01:00
to avoid too much grunting and swearing in the next 17 minutes.
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免得接下來的 17 分鐘 有太多悶哼聲與詛咒。
01:05
This is the first talk I've given about this expedition,
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這是我在這趟遠征後的首次演說,
01:08
and while we weren't sequencing genomes or building space telescopes,
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儘管我們不是做了基因定序 或架設太空望遠鏡,
01:13
this is a story about giving everything we had to achieve something
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但這段故事也是關於我們放棄一切
去達成前所未有的事。
01:18
that hadn't been done before.
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01:20
So I hope in that you might find some food for thought.
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希望你們能從中獲得一些精神糧食。
01:24
It was a journey, an expedition in Antarctica,
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這趟遠征南極洲的旅程
01:28
the coldest, windiest, driest and highest altitude continent on Earth.
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是在地球上最冷、風最大、 最乾燥,海拔也最高的洲。
01:32
It's a fascinating place. It's a huge place.
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那是很棒、很大的地方。
01:34
It's twice the size of Australia,
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比澳洲大兩倍,
01:37
a continent that is the same size as China and India put together.
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就跟中國和印度加起來一樣大。
01:42
As an aside, I have experienced
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順帶一提,最近幾天
我經歷了一種很有意思的現象,
01:44
an interesting phenomenon in the last few days,
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01:46
something that I expect Chris Hadfield may get at TED in a few years' time,
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我預料幾年後克里斯.哈德菲爾德 也會在 TED 經歷到
01:50
conversations that go something like this:
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像這樣的對話:
01:52
"Oh, Antarctica. Awesome.
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「哇!南極洲,真棒!
01:53
My husband and I did Antarctica with Lindblad for our anniversary."
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我和老公結婚四週年的時候 參加領步探險去過南極洲。」
01:59
Or, "Oh cool, did you go there for the marathon?"
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或是「酷耶!你是去跑馬拉松嗎?」
02:02
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
02:06
Our journey was, in fact, 69 marathons back to back
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我們的旅程其實就是 連續 69 趟馬拉松,
02:10
in 105 days, an 1,800-mile round trip on foot from the coast of Antarctica
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105 天徒步走完來回 1,800 哩路,
從南極海岸到南極點,再回頭。
02:16
to the South Pole and back again.
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02:19
In the process, we broke the record
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這趟路我們打破記錄
02:21
for the longest human-powered polar journey in history by more than 400 miles.
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比史上用人力完成的 最長極地旅程還長 400 哩。
02:27
(Applause)
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(掌聲)
02:31
For those of you from the Bay Area,
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對在座住灣區的人來說,
02:33
it was the same as walking from here to San Francisco,
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這段路就等於從這裡走到舊金山,
02:38
then turning around and walking back again.
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然後再走回去。
02:40
So as camping trips go, it was a long one,
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以露營旅行來說,這是長途旅行,
02:45
and one I've seen summarized most succinctly here
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我看過最簡潔的說法
02:48
on the hallowed pages of Business Insider Malaysia.
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是出現在《馬來西亞商業內幕》 神聖的一頁裡。
02:52
["Two Explorers Just Completed A Polar Expedition That Killed Everyone The Last Time It Was Attempted"]
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「兩名探險家完成極地遠征   前次挑戰探險隊無一生還」
02:58
Chris Hadfield talked so eloquently
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克里斯.哈德菲爾德說得很清楚,
03:00
about fear and about the odds of success, and indeed the odds of survival.
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他談到恐懼、成功的機率, 還有存活的機率。
03:06
Of the nine people in history that had attempted this journey before us,
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在我們之前, 史上有九個人嘗試這趟旅程,
03:10
none had made it to the pole and back,
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沒有人成功往返南極點,
03:12
and five had died in the process.
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其中五人在路上過世了。
03:16
This is Captain Robert Falcon Scott.
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這是羅伯特.法爾肯.史考特上尉,
03:19
He led the last team to attempt this expedition.
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他帶領前次遠征。
03:22
Scott and his rival Sir Ernest Shackleton,
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史考特和對手歐內斯特.沙克爾頓爵士
03:24
over the space of a decade,
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在十年之間
03:27
both led expeditions battling to become the first to reach the South Pole,
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都帶著遠征隊, 爭著想成為抵達南極的第一人,
03:31
to chart and map the interior of Antarctica,
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並繪製南極洲的地圖,
03:34
a place we knew less about, at the time,
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在當時南極是鮮為人知的地方,
03:36
than the surface of the moon,
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比月球表面還神秘,
03:38
because we could see the moon through telescopes.
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因為我們至少能透過 望遠鏡來看月球。
03:40
Antarctica was, for the most part, a century ago, uncharted.
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南極洲大部分在百年前的 地圖上都還沒標出來。
03:44
Some of you may know the story.
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在座可能有人知道這個故事。
03:46
Scott's last expedition, the Terra Nova Expedition in 1910,
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史考特最後一次遠征, 1910 年的新世界遠征隊,
03:49
started as a giant siege-style approach.
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以大型極地遠征法啟程。
03:51
He had a big team using ponies,
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浩蕩的隊伍用小馬、狗
03:54
using dogs, using petrol-driven tractors,
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和汽油發動的拖拉機
03:56
dropping multiple, pre-positioned depots of food and fuel
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在預選的補給站卸下食物和燃料,
04:00
through which Scott's final team of five would travel to the Pole,
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因此史考特的五人小隊 才能抵達南極點,
04:03
where they would turn around and ski back to the coast again on foot.
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隨後滑雪、徒步回到岸邊。
04:07
Scott and his final team of five
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史考特和最後的五人小隊
04:09
arrived at the South Pole in January 1912
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1912 年一月抵達南極點的時候,
04:13
to find they had been beaten to it by a Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen,
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才發現羅爾德.亞孟森 帶領的挪威探險隊已打敗他們,
04:18
who rode on dogsled.
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而且他們是駕狗拉雪橇。
04:19
Scott's team ended up on foot.
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史考特隊以徒步告結。
04:21
And for more than a century this journey has remained unfinished.
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一百多年來,還沒有人完成這趟旅程。
04:26
Scott's team of five died on the return journey.
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史考特的五人小隊 在回程途中全軍覆沒。
04:29
And for the last decade,
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近十年來,
04:31
I've been asking myself why that is.
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我一直不斷問自己為什麼會這樣。
04:34
How come this has remained the high-water mark?
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為什麼到現在仍難以實現?
04:38
Scott's team covered 1,600 miles on foot.
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史考特隊伍徒步走了 1,600 哩,
04:40
No one's come close to that ever since.
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從此之後無人能及。
04:42
So this is the high-water mark of human endurance,
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因此這可以說是人類 在地球上最嚴酷的氣候中
04:45
human endeavor, human athletic achievement
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04:47
in arguably the harshest climate on Earth.
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所能忍受、努力與體能的極限。
04:50
It was as if the marathon record
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這就好像馬拉松記錄,
04:53
has remained unbroken since 1912.
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從 1912 年到現在 沒人能打破記錄一樣。
04:56
And of course some strange and predictable combination of curiosity,
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當然混雜著一些奇怪
和料想得到的好奇心與倔強,
05:01
stubbornness, and probably hubris
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也許還有點自大,
05:03
led me to thinking I might be the man to try to finish the job.
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讓我想也許自己能成為 完成目標的那個人。
05:07
Unlike Scott's expedition, there were just two of us,
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不像史考特遠征隊,我們只有兩個人,
05:10
and we set off from the coast of Antarctica in October last year,
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去年十月我們從南極洲海岸出發,
05:13
dragging everything ourselves,
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自己拖全部的東西,
05:16
a process Scott called "man-hauling."
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史考特說這個過程是「人力拖運」。
05:18
When I say it was like walking from here to San Francisco and back,
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雖然我剛說那就像 從這走到舊金山再回來,
05:21
I actually mean it was like dragging something that weighs a shade more
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其實是像拉著
比最重的國家聯盟橄欖球員 還重一點的東西。
05:25
than the heaviest ever NFL player.
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05:27
Our sledges weighed 200 kilos,
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我們的雪橇有 200 公斤重,
05:29
or 440 pounds each at the start,
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就是說一開始每個就有 440 磅,
05:32
the same weights that the weakest of Scott's ponies pulled.
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和史考特最弱的小馬拖的一樣重。
05:37
Early on, we averaged 0.5 miles per hour.
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初期我們平均時速是 0.5 哩。
05:40
Perhaps the reason no one had attempted this journey until now,
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也許過去沒人嘗試走這趟旅程,
05:43
in more than a century,
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超過一個世紀,
05:45
was that no one had been quite stupid enough to try.
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是因為沒人會笨到去嘗試。
05:50
And while I can't claim we were exploring
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雖然我無法名正言順地聲稱
05:52
in the genuine Edwardian sense of the word —
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我們是名符其實的愛德華時代探險,
05:55
we weren't naming any mountains or mapping any uncharted valleys —
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因為我們沒有命名任何山 或畫出不在地圖上的山谷,
05:59
I think we were stepping into uncharted territory in a human sense.
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但我想我們踏進了人類未知的領域。
06:03
Certainly, if in the future we learn there is an area of the human brain
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確實,如果未來我們發現 人腦有個部分
06:06
that lights up when one curses oneself,
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會在你詛咒自己的時候發光,
06:10
I won't be at all surprised.
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我也一點都不驚訝。
06:13
You've heard that the average American spends 90 percent of their time indoors.
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大家都聽過美國人普遍 有九成時間待在室內,
06:17
We didn't go indoors for nearly four months.
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我們卻有將近四個月不在室內。
06:21
We didn't see a sunset either.
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我們也沒看到日落,
06:23
It was 24-hour daylight.
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因為太陽 24 小時亮著。
06:25
Living conditions were quite spartan.
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居住環境很艱苦。
06:27
I changed my underwear three times in 105 days
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105 天裡我才換了三次內衣,
06:32
and Tarka and I shared 30 square feet on the canvas.
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塔卡和我共用不到 30 平方英尺的帆布。
06:36
Though we did have some technology that Scott could never have imagined.
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不過我們還有些設備 是史考特永遠無法想像的。
06:40
And we blogged live every evening from the tent via a laptop
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我們每天晚上在帳蓬裡 用筆電寫實況部落格,
06:44
and a custom-made satellite transmitter,
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還有特製的衛星發射器,
06:46
all of which were solar-powered:
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這些全都用太陽能發電,
06:48
we had a flexible photovoltaic panel over the tent.
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我們有塊彈性光電板在帳篷上。
06:50
And the writing was important to me.
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寫作對我來說很重要,
06:53
As a kid, I was inspired by the literature of adventure and exploration,
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小時候我就深受冒險與探索文學激勵,
07:00
and I think we've all seen here this week
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我想這個星期我們都看到了
07:03
the importance and the power of storytelling.
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說故事的重要性與力量。
07:07
So we had some 21st-century gear,
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我們有 21 世紀的設備,
07:09
but the reality is that the challenges that Scott faced
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但事實上史考特面臨的挑戰
07:11
were the same that we faced:
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和我們面臨的一樣,
07:13
those of the weather and of what Scott called glide,
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像是那裡的天氣、史考特所說的滑行,
07:17
the amount of friction between the sledges and the snow.
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就是雪橇和雪之間的磨擦力。
07:20
The lowest wind chill we experienced was in the -70s,
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我們碰過的最低風寒指數是 -70 多,
07:24
and we had zero visibility, what's called white-out,
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能見度是零,就是一片白朦,
07:27
for much of our journey.
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幾乎全程都是如此。
07:30
We traveled up and down one of the largest
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我們越過世界上最大
07:32
and most dangerous glaciers in the world, the Beardmore glacier.
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且最危險的冰川之一 ──比爾德摩爾冰川。
07:35
It's 110 miles long; most of its surface is what's called blue ice.
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冰川有 110 哩長,表面大多是藍冰。
07:39
You can see it's a beautiful, shimmering steel-hard blue surface
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你可以看到那是漂亮、閃亮, 像鋼一樣硬的藍色表面,
07:42
covered with thousands and thousands of crevasses,
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覆蓋了成千上萬層冰隙,
07:46
these deep cracks in the glacial ice up to 200 feet deep.
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這些冰川裡的裂縫深達 200 呎。
07:50
Planes can't land here,
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飛機無法在這裡降落,
07:52
so we were at the most risk,
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所以說我們身在風險最大的地方,
07:55
technically, when we had the slimmest chance of being rescued.
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嚴格說來,我們獲救的機會微乎其微。
08:00
We got to the South Pole after 61 days on foot,
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徒步走 61 天後我們抵達南極點,
08:04
with one day off for bad weather,
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因為天氣差多休息了一天,
08:06
and I'm sad to say, it was something of an anticlimax.
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不得不說那真有點掃興。
08:09
There's a permanent American base,
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南極有個常駐的美國基地──
08:11
the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station at the South Pole.
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阿蒙森—斯科特南極站。
08:15
They have an airstrip, they have a canteen,
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他們有簡易跑道、餐廳,
08:16
they have hot showers,
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可以洗熱水澡,
08:18
they have a post office, a tourist shop,
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有郵局、紀念品店,
08:20
a basketball court that doubles as a movie theater.
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還有籃球場兼電影院。
08:24
So it's a bit different these days,
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所以今非昔比啊!
08:26
and there are also acres of junk.
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不過那裡也有超多垃圾。
08:27
I think it's a marvelous thing
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我覺得很不可思議的是
08:29
that humans can exist 365 days of the year
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人類可以生活一整年
08:34
with hamburgers and hot showers and movie theaters,
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每天只靠漢堡、熱水澡和電影院,
08:38
but it does seem to produce a lot of empty cardboard boxes.
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但這似乎會製造很多空紙盒。
08:40
You can see on the left of this photograph,
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你可以看到照片的左邊
08:42
several square acres of junk
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有幾英畝垃圾
08:44
waiting to be flown out from the South Pole.
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等著運出南極。
08:46
But there is also a pole at the South Pole,
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但南極也有個極點,
08:50
and we got there on foot, unassisted,
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我們徒步抵達,
毫無援助,走最艱難的路線,
08:54
unsupported, by the hardest route,
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08:55
900 miles in record time,
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用破記錄的時間完成 900 哩,
08:58
dragging more weight than anyone in history.
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還拖著比史上任何人都還重的東西。
09:00
And if we'd stopped there and flown home,
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如果我們就此打住,直接飛回家,
09:02
which would have been the eminently sensible thing to do,
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這樣的決定看起來非常合理,
09:05
then my talk would end here
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那我的演說就會到此告一段落,
09:07
and it would end something like this.
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而且以這樣結尾:
09:10
If you have the right team around you, the right tools, the right technology,
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如果你和對的團體在一起, 擁有對的工具和科技,
09:15
and if you have enough self-belief and enough determination,
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如果你有足夠的信念和決心,
09:19
then anything is possible.
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那麼任何事都有可能實現。
09:24
But then we turned around,
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但是後來我們轉身繼續走回程,
09:27
and this is where things get interesting.
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這件事就有點意思了。
09:30
High on the Antarctic plateau,
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在南極高原上,
09:32
over 10,000 feet, it's very windy, very cold, very dry, we were exhausted.
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超過一萬呎,風超大、超冷、 超乾,我們都精疲力盡了。
09:36
We'd covered 35 marathons,
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我們已經完成了 35 趟馬拉松,
09:38
we were only halfway,
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但這只完成一半,
09:40
and we had a safety net, of course,
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當然我們有安全措施,
09:42
of ski planes and satellite phones
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像是雪地飛機、衛星電話、
09:44
and live, 24-hour tracking beacons that didn't exist for Scott,
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24 小時即時追蹤信標, 當時史考特可沒有這些東西,
09:48
but in hindsight,
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但事後看來,
09:50
rather than making our lives easier,
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與其說能讓生活好過一點,
09:52
the safety net actually allowed us
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不如說安全措施讓我們
09:54
to cut things very fine indeed,
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能把事情做到最精準,
09:58
to sail very close to our absolute limits as human beings.
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讓我們能完全發揮到人類極限。
10:02
And it is an exquisite form of torture
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這是種最極致的折磨,
10:05
to exhaust yourself to the point of starvation day after day
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日復一日耗盡力氣直到餓扁肚子,
10:08
while dragging a sledge full of food.
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而且還拉著滿雪橇的食物。
10:12
For years, I'd been writing glib lines in sponsorship proposals
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幾年來,我總是在 募款計畫上寫些好聽話,
10:16
about pushing the limits of human endurance,
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說我們要超越人類極限,
10:19
but in reality, that was a very frightening place to be indeed.
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但其實那裡是非常嚇人的地方。
10:24
We had, before we'd got to the Pole,
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在我們抵達南極點之前,
10:26
two weeks of almost permanent headwind, which slowed us down.
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幾乎吹了整整兩週的逆風, 降低了我們的速度。
10:29
As a result, we'd had several days of eating half rations.
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結果我們有幾天只能吃一半。
雪橇上讓我們走完整趟路的食物有限,
10:32
We had a finite amount of food in the sledges to make this journey,
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10:34
so we were trying to string that out
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所以我們要試著節省食物,
10:36
by reducing our intake to half the calories we should have been eating.
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減半攝取原本應該有的熱量。
10:40
As a result, we both became increasingly hypoglycemic —
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結果我們的低血糖日趨嚴重,
10:44
we had low blood sugar levels day after day —
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我們的血糖一天天降低,
10:47
and increasingly susceptible to the extreme cold.
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而且越來越容易受酷寒天候影響。
10:51
Tarka took this photo of me one evening
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塔卡有天晚上幫我拍了這張照片,
10:54
after I'd nearly passed out with hypothermia.
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我才差點因為失溫而暈倒。
10:56
We both had repeated bouts of hypothermia, something I hadn't experienced before,
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我們一次又一次面臨失溫, 這是我以前從沒碰過的事,
11:01
and it was very humbling indeed.
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真讓人自覺渺小。
11:02
As much as you might like to think, as I do,
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你很可能會有種想法,我也是,
11:06
that you're the kind of person who doesn't quit,
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你自認是那種永不放棄的人,
11:08
that you'll go down swinging,
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你會光榮退場,
11:10
hypothermia doesn't leave you much choice.
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但失溫讓你毫無選擇。
11:12
You become utterly incapacitated.
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你會變得很沒用,
11:15
It's like being a drunk toddler.
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就像是個喝醉的學步幼兒,
11:18
You become pathetic.
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變得很悲慘。
11:20
I remember just wanting to lie down and quit.
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我記得當時只想躺下,就此放棄。
11:24
It was a peculiar, peculiar feeling,
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那是種很怪的感覺,
11:27
and a real surprise to me to be debilitated to that degree.
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而且累到那個程度也真是嚇到我了。
11:32
And then we ran out of food completely,
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後來我們吃完了全部的食物,
11:36
46 miles short of the first of the depots
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離第一個補給站還有 46 哩路,
11:40
that we'd laid on our outward journey.
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我們為出遠門準備了糧食補給站。
11:42
We'd laid 10 depots of food,
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我們準備了 10 個補給站的食物,
11:43
literally burying food and fuel, for our return journey —
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基本上就是把回程的 食物和燃料埋起來,
11:46
the fuel was for a cooker so you could melt snow to get water —
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燃料是為了煮冰,我們才能有水喝,
11:49
and I was forced to make the decision to call for a resupply flight,
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我被迫決定聯絡補給機,
11:55
a ski plane carrying eight days of food to tide us over that gap.
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這種雪地飛機會運送八天份食物 讓我們度過難關。
11:59
They took 12 hours to reach us from the other side of Antarctica.
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他們花了 12 小時 才從南極的另一端找到我們。
12:03
Calling for that plane was one of the toughest decisions of my life.
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請求飛機支援是 我生命中很困難的決定。
12:06
And I sound like a bit of a fraud standing here now with a sort of belly.
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聽起來我就像是個 有大肚腩的騙子站在這裡。
12:10
I've put on 30 pounds in the last three weeks.
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最近三週我胖了 30 磅。
12:13
Being that hungry has left an interesting mental scar,
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那種飢餓在心裡留下了 一種有意思的恐懼,
12:16
which is that I've been hoovering up every hotel buffet that I can find.
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讓我四處狂掃每家飯店的 吃到飽自助餐。
12:20
(Laughter)
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(笑聲)
12:22
But we were genuinely quite hungry, and in quite a bad way.
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但是我們真的超餓,完全餓壞了。
12:28
I don't regret calling for that plane for a second,
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我從沒後悔向飛機呼救,
12:30
because I'm still standing here alive,
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因為我還活著,
12:32
with all digits intact, telling this story.
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十指健全站在這裡說故事。
12:34
But getting external assistance like that was never part of the plan,
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但是尋求像那樣的外部援助 完全不在計畫中,
12:39
and it's something my ego is still struggling with.
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我的自尊心仍掙扎不已。
12:42
This was the biggest dream I've ever had,
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這曾是我此生最大的夢想,
12:45
and it was so nearly perfect.
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差一點就完美了。
12:48
On the way back down to the coast,
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走回海岸的路上,
12:50
our crampons — they're the spikes on our boots
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我們的冰爪──裝在靴子上的釘鞋,
12:52
that we have for traveling over this blue ice on the glacier —
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用來在冰川的藍冰上行走,
12:55
broke on the top of the Beardmore.
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在比爾德摩爾冰川上壞了。
12:57
We still had 100 miles to go downhill
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下山還有百哩路,
12:59
on very slippery rock-hard blue ice.
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而且是走在很滑,硬如石頭的藍冰。
13:01
They needed repairing almost every hour.
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釘鞋幾乎每小時都要修理一次。
13:03
To give you an idea of scale,
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讓你更了解狀況,
13:05
this is looking down towards the mouth of the Beardmore Glacier.
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這是向下看比爾德摩冰川口的照片。
13:08
You could fit the entirety of Manhattan in the gap on the horizon.
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你可以在地平線上的這個缺口 塞進整個曼哈頓。
13:12
That's 20 miles between Mount Hope and Mount Kiffin.
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這是在霍普山和奇芬山之間的 20 哩路。
13:15
I've never felt as small as I did in Antarctica.
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在南極讓我感覺前所未有的渺小。
13:21
When we got down to the mouth of the glacier,
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我們走到冰河口的時候,
13:23
we found fresh snow had obscured the dozens of deep crevasses.
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發現剛下的雪已經覆蓋了 許多深長的冰隙。
13:28
One of Shackleton's men described crossing this sort of terrain
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沙克爾頓的隊員形容橫越這種地面
13:31
as like walking over the glass roof of a railway station.
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就像是走在火車站的玻璃屋頂上。
13:36
We fell through more times than I can remember,
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我們掉下去的次數多到我都記不得了,
13:39
usually just putting a ski or a boot through the snow.
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通常只有雪板或靴子陷下去。
13:42
Occasionally we went in all the way up to our armpits,
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但有時候一路陷,直到腋下才停,
13:45
but thankfully never deeper than that.
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還好沒有陷更深了。
13:48
And less than five weeks ago, after 105 days,
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不到五週前,在出發 105 天後,
13:52
we crossed this oddly inauspicious finish line,
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我們穿越這條格外不祥的終點線,
13:56
the coast of Ross Island on the New Zealand side of Antarctica.
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就是南極洲靠紐西蘭那側的羅斯島海岸。
13:59
You can see the ice in the foreground
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你可以看到冰川前端
14:01
and the sort of rubbly rock behind that.
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和那後面的碎岩石。
14:04
Behind us lay an unbroken ski trail of nearly 1,800 miles.
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我們身後的是完好的冰道, 大約 1,800 哩長。
14:08
We'd made the longest ever polar journey on foot,
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2508
我們徒步走完最長的極地旅途,
14:10
something I'd been dreaming of doing for a decade.
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這是我夢想了十年的事。
14:15
And looking back,
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2015
回過頭看,
14:17
I still stand by all the things
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我還信守著
那些我說了好幾年的事,
14:19
I've been saying for years
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1582
14:21
about the importance of goals
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那些目標的重要性、
14:23
and determination and self-belief,
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決心與信念,
14:26
but I'll also admit that I hadn't given much thought to what happens
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但我也必須承認,我過去一直沒多想
14:31
when you reach the all-consuming goal
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當你實現那個全心全意想達成的目標,
14:35
that you've dedicated most of your adult life to,
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那個成年後傾全力投入的 目標時會如何,
14:38
and the reality is that I'm still figuring that bit out.
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而現實是我還在一點一滴摸索。
14:42
As I said, there are very few superficial signs that I've been away.
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就像我剛說的, 表面上沒多少我遠行的跡象。
14:45
I've put on 30 pounds.
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我胖了 30 磅。
14:47
I've got some very faint, probably covered in makeup now, frostbite scars.
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我長了一些很淡的凍瘡, 大概被粧蓋掉了,
14:50
I've got one on my nose, one on each cheek, from where the goggles are,
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鼻子上一個,左右臉頰各一個, 從護目鏡那開始長。
14:54
but inside I am a very different person indeed.
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但我的內在變成了非常不一樣的人。
14:59
If I'm honest,
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2497
老實說,
15:01
Antarctica challenged me and humbled me so deeply
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5175
南極挑戰我最內在的部分, 讓我深感卑微,
15:06
that I'm not sure I'll ever be able to put it into words.
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我不確定自己能用言語表達清楚。
15:10
I'm still struggling to piece together my thoughts.
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我還在努力拼湊思緒。
15:14
That I'm standing here telling this story
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3645
我站在這裡說這個故事
15:18
is proof that we all can accomplish great things,
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證明了我們都能成就大事,
15:23
through ambition, through passion,
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2154
憑著企圖心、熱情、
15:25
through sheer stubbornness,
287
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堅定不移、
15:27
by refusing to quit,
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1515
和不願放棄,
15:28
that if you dream something hard enough, as Sting said,
289
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2956
只要你的渴望夠強大, 就能像史汀說的,
15:31
it does indeed come to pass.
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3071
終能實現願望。
15:34
But I'm also standing here saying, you know what,
291
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3346
但我也站在這裡告訴大家,
15:38
that cliche about the journey being more important than the destination?
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5981
你知道為什麼陳腔濫調總是說 旅程比目的地還重要嗎?
15:44
There's something in that.
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3321
裡面有些道理在。
15:47
The closer I got to my finish line,
294
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2369
當我越靠近終點線,
15:49
that rubbly, rocky coast of Ross Island,
295
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3756
那條羅斯島的碎石岩岸,
15:53
the more I started to realize that the biggest lesson
296
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3194
我開始越能理解,
15:56
that this very long, very hard walk might be teaching me
297
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4580
這趟又長又艱辛的步行 教我最重要的一課
16:01
is that happiness is not a finish line,
298
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3693
是快樂不等於終點線,
16:05
that for us humans,
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1570
對身為人類的我們來說,
16:06
the perfection that so many of us seem to dream of
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3476
大多數人夢想中所謂的完美
16:10
might not ever be truly attainable,
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4080
也許永遠都無法實現,
16:14
and that if we can't feel content here, today, now, on our journeys
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8466
如果我們不能在此地、此時、此刻 滿足於我們的旅程,
16:22
amidst the mess and the striving that we all inhabit,
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4468
不能滿足於一團混亂 與努力奮鬥之中的旅程,
16:27
the open loops, the half-finished to-do lists,
304
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2720
不能滿足於充斥想不透做不到的事、 未完成的待辦事項、
16:29
the could-do-better-next-times,
305
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2852
和事情下次能做得更好的旅程,
16:32
then we might never feel it.
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3299
那麼我們也許永遠都不會感到滿足。
16:36
A lot of people have asked me, what next?
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3576
很多人問我接下來要做什麼?
16:39
Right now, I am very happy just recovering and in front of hotel buffets.
308
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6998
現在只要能恢復、站在飯店自助餐前, 我就覺得非常快樂。
16:46
But as Bob Hope put it,
309
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4353
但就像鮑勃.霍普所說,
16:50
I feel very humble,
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2296
我覺得自己十分卑微,
16:53
but I think I have the strength of character to fight it. (Laughter)
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4069
但我想我有剛強的性格能起身戰鬥。 (笑聲)
16:57
Thank you.
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1950
謝謝。
16:59
(Applause)
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