Ben Saunders: To the South Pole and back — the hardest 105 days of my life
85,682 views ・ 2014-12-02
请双击下面的英文字幕来播放视频。
翻译人员: Yiding(Eden) Wen
校对人员: Tingting Zhao
00:12
So in the oasis of
intelligentsia that is TED,
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TED是智慧的绿洲,
00:18
I stand here before you this evening
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我有幸今晚站在这儿,
00:21
as an expert in dragging heavy
stuff around cold places.
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以一位行走在天寒地冻区域的探险专家的身份发言。
00:27
I've been leading polar expeditions
for most of my adult life,
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成年后,我把大部分时间用于带领极地探险,
00:30
and last month, my teammate
Tarka L'Herpiniere and I
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上个月,我和队友拉卡·赫皮尼尔,
00:33
finished the most ambitious
expedition I've ever attempted.
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完成了有生以来最雄心勃勃的探险。
00:39
In fact, it feels like I've been
transported straight here
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我差不多像是从那无人区
00:42
from four months in the middle of nowhere,
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四个月的骂骂咧咧生活中,
00:44
mostly grunting and swearing,
straight to the TED stage.
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直接被传送到了演说现场。
00:49
So you can imagine that's a transition
that hasn't been entirely seamless.
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因此你大概能注意到,我还没缓过劲儿来。
00:53
One of the interesting side effects
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其中一个有意思的后遗症,
00:55
seems to be that my short-term
memory is entirely shot.
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就是我的短期记忆真的非常短,
00:58
So I've had to write some notes
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所以我不得不做记些笔记,
01:00
to avoid too much grunting and swearing
in the next 17 minutes.
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来让剩下的17分钟,不会充斥咒骂和嘟哝。
01:05
This is the first talk I've given
about this expedition,
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这是我第一次谈论这次探险,
01:08
and while we weren't sequencing genomes
or building space telescopes,
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虽然我们没有做出基因测序,
或是建太空望远镜这样的贡献,
01:13
this is a story about giving everything
we had to achieve something
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但这次探险里,我们依然竭尽所能,
01:18
that hadn't been done before.
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达成了人类前所未有的目标。
01:20
So I hope in that you might
find some food for thought.
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而我也希望你们能从中获得些启示。
01:24
It was a journey, an
expedition in Antarctica,
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这是一次南极洲探险,
01:28
the coldest, windiest, driest and
highest altitude continent on Earth.
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全世界最冷,风最大,最干燥,
海拔最高的大洲。
01:32
It's a fascinating place.
It's a huge place.
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那是个不可思议的,巨大的地方。
01:34
It's twice the size of Australia,
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它的面积是澳大利亚版图的两倍,
01:37
a continent that is the same size
as China and India put together.
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等同于中国和印度版图面积的总和。
01:42
As an aside, I have experienced
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说句题外话,前些天
01:44
an interesting phenomenon
in the last few days,
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我遇上了个有趣现象,
01:46
something that I expect Chris Hadfield
may get at TED in a few years' time,
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宇航员克里斯·哈菲尔德几年前
在TED演讲时应该也经历过。
01:50
conversations that go something like this:
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我遇上了诸如此类的对话:
01:52
"Oh, Antarctica. Awesome.
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“天啊,南极,棒极了!”,
01:53
My husband and I did Antarctica
with Lindblad for our anniversary."
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“我和老公在南极庆祝了结婚纪念日诶!”
01:59
Or, "Oh cool, did you go there
for the marathon?"
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或是“哦,真炫,你去那儿参加马拉松了?”
02:02
(Laughter)
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(笑声)
02:06
Our journey was, in fact,
69 marathons back to back
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我们的旅程,
它实际路程约69个全程马拉松。
02:10
in 105 days, an 1,800-mile round trip
on foot from the coast of Antarctica
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共计105天,全程徒步从南极洲海岸
02:16
to the South Pole and back again.
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行至极点再返回,共计1800英里。
02:19
In the process, we broke the record
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期间,我们打破了人类最长
02:21
for the longest human-powered polar
journey in history by more than 400 miles.
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人力极圈旅程的记录 -
比它多了400多英里。
02:27
(Applause)
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(掌声)
02:31
For those of you from the Bay Area,
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对来自湾区的各位而言,
02:33
it was the same as walking from
here to San Francisco,
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这个距离差不多是从这儿走到旧金山,
02:38
then turning around
and walking back again.
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再走回这里。
02:40
So as camping trips go, it was a long one,
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这真是个漫长旅程。
02:45
and one I've seen summarized
most succinctly here
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我在《马拉西亚经济洞察报》中,
02:48
on the hallowed pages
of Business Insider Malaysia.
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看到关于此行最简洁的概述。
02:52
["Two Explorers Just Completed A Polar Expedition
That Killed Everyone The Last Time It Was Attempted"]
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“两个探险家刚完成了上回尝试者
全军覆没的一次极地探险。”
02:58
Chris Hadfield talked so eloquently
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克里斯·哈菲尔德痛陈了
03:00
about fear and about the odds of success,
and indeed the odds of survival.
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其中的恐惧以及成功与幸存的几率。
03:06
Of the nine people in history that had
attempted this journey before us,
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在我们之前尝试过这旅行的9人中,
03:10
none had made it to the pole and back,
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没有人是成功到达极点后又走回来的,
03:12
and five had died in the process.
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有五人死于途中。
03:16
This is Captain Robert Falcon Scott.
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这位是罗伯特·法尔考·斯科特,
03:19
He led the last team
to attempt this expedition.
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他带队作了最后的尝试。
03:22
Scott and his rival Sir Ernest Shackleton,
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斯科特
和竞争者欧内斯特·沙克尔顿爵士,
03:24
over the space of a decade,
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在十多年里,
03:27
both led expeditions battling to become
the first to reach the South Pole,
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都力争成为第一个抵达南极点、
03:31
to chart and map
the interior of Antarctica,
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第一个画出南极内陆地图的人。
03:34
a place we knew less about, at the time,
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那时我们对那片土地知之甚少,
03:36
than the surface of the moon,
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-甚至不及月球表面。
03:38
because we could see
the moon through telescopes.
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因为我们能从望远镜看到月球,
03:40
Antarctica was, for the most part,
a century ago, uncharted.
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而南极洲在一个世纪前
大部分地方都没地图。
03:44
Some of you may know the story.
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你们中有人也许听过这故事,
03:46
Scott's last expedition, the
Terra Nova Expedition in 1910,
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1910年,
斯科特对新大陆作了他最后一次探险,
03:49
started as a giant
siege-style approach.
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带着胸中的万丈豪情。
03:51
He had a big team using ponies,
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他人力充足。在种马,
03:54
using dogs, using petrol-driven tractors,
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狗,汽动机,
03:56
dropping multiple, pre-positioned
depots of food and fuel
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足量食物及燃油
的条件下,
04:00
through which Scott's final team of five
would travel to the Pole,
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斯科特的五人小队
将会到达极点,
04:03
where they would turn around and ski
back to the coast again on foot.
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然后,他们掉头返回,
用双脚丈量海岸。
04:07
Scott and his final team of five
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1912年一月,
04:09
arrived at the South Pole
in January 1912
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斯科特和他的五人小分队
到达了南极点。
04:13
to find they had been beaten to it
by a Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen,
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但不巧,他们发现
由挪威人罗尔德·阿蒙森领头的小队
04:18
who rode on dogsled.
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已然领先。
04:19
Scott's team ended up on foot.
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斯科特及队员们徒步前行。
04:21
And for more than a century
this journey has remained unfinished.
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然而,已经过了一个世纪,
漫漫旅途无果而终。
04:26
Scott's team of five died
on the return journey.
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斯科特的五人小分队,
死于归途。
04:29
And for the last decade,
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过去十年来,
04:31
I've been asking myself why that is.
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我不断自问:为何?
04:34
How come this has remained
the high-water mark?
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何以它仍为人类巅峰?
04:38
Scott's team covered 1,600 miles on foot.
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斯科特的团队共计步行
1600英里。
04:40
No one's come close to that ever since.
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前无古人,后无来者。
04:42
So this is the high-water mark
of human endurance,
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这是人类耐力顶峰,
04:45
human endeavor,
human athletic achievement
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人们共同努力的结晶。
人类极限运动的巅峰。
04:47
in arguably the harshest climate on Earth.
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况且,四目所及,天寒地坼。
04:50
It was as if the marathon record
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就好比马拉松记录,
04:53
has remained unbroken since 1912.
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自1912年以来都不曾被打破似的。
04:56
And of course some strange and
predictable combination of curiosity,
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好奇,混杂着第六感,随风而来。
05:01
stubbornness, and probably hubris
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固执,可能还有些许傲慢,
05:03
led me to thinking I might be the man
to try to finish the job.
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让我跃跃欲试。
05:07
Unlike Scott's expedition,
there were just two of us,
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不同于斯科特,
我们相伴二人行。
05:10
and we set off from the coast
of Antarctica in October last year,
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自去年10月,
我们从南极洲海岸出发,
05:13
dragging everything ourselves,
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荷重前行。
05:16
a process Scott called "man-hauling."
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即斯科特所谓的“人拖”。
05:18
When I say it was like walking from
here to San Francisco and back,
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我刚才说,这就像
从这儿到旧金山的往返路程。
05:21
I actually mean it was like dragging
something that weighs a shade more
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实际上,还要再拖个
比美式橄榄球运动员
05:25
than the heaviest ever NFL player.
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稍微重点的东西。
05:27
Our sledges weighed 200 kilos,
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我们的行李大约200公斤重
05:29
or 440 pounds each at the start,
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或者说,刚开始,每人负荷是440磅。
05:32
the same weights that the weakest
of Scott's ponies pulled.
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这是斯科特团队中最瘦弱
的种马拉的货物重量。
05:37
Early on, we averaged 0.5 miles per hour.
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起先,我们平均一小时行进0.5英里,
05:40
Perhaps the reason no one had
attempted this journey until now,
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也许,
超过一世纪,
05:43
in more than a century,
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人们惶而畏之因,
05:45
was that no one had been quite
stupid enough to try.
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是真没有这么傻的人会尝试啊。
05:50
And while I can't claim we were exploring
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虽然我们不能像爱德华时代
05:52
in the genuine Edwardian
sense of the word —
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的探索家那样,
05:55
we weren't naming any mountains
or mapping any uncharted valleys —
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我们不是在为山命名
或是标出任何未知的峡谷
05:59
I think we were stepping into uncharted
territory in a human sense.
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但我想我们踏入了一种人性的新区域。
06:03
Certainly, if in the future we learn
there is an area of the human brain
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诚然,如果未来,
我们得知人在赌咒时
06:06
that lights up when one curses oneself,
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大脑一块区域会被激活,
06:10
I won't be at all surprised.
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对我来说,这没什么好惊讶的。
06:13
You've heard that the average American
spends 90 percent of their time indoors.
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你们己经知道美国人平均花90%在室内,
06:17
We didn't go indoors
for nearly four months.
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我们会几乎四个月不出门。
06:21
We didn't see a sunset either.
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我们当然也看不到日落。
06:23
It was 24-hour daylight.
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极点是24小时极昼,
06:25
Living conditions were quite spartan.
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生存条件恶劣。
06:27
I changed my underwear
three times in 105 days
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在105天里,我换了3次内衣
06:32
and Tarka and I shared
30 square feet on the canvas.
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我和队友共享30平方英尺的空间。
06:36
Though we did have some technology
that Scott could never have imagined.
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确实我们有斯科特团队想都想不到的
技术
06:40
And we blogged live every evening
from the tent via a laptop
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而且我们每晚都会通过笔记本电脑
及简易制作的卫星信号转换器
06:44
and a custom-made satellite transmitter,
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发博客来证明我们还活着。
06:46
all of which were solar-powered:
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这一切都是太阳能驱动的,
06:48
we had a flexible photovoltaic
panel over the tent.
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在帐篷上,我们有可灵活移动的摄像头。
06:50
And the writing was important to me.
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写下经历对我来说也很重要。
06:53
As a kid, I was inspired by the
literature of adventure and exploration,
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孩提时,我被冒险和探索小说鼓舞了
07:00
and I think we've all seen
here this week
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我想,这周,我们已经看到
07:03
the importance and
the power of storytelling.
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叙述故事的重要性及其力量
07:07
So we had some 21st-century gear,
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综上所述,我们有21世纪的现代化设备
07:09
but the reality is that the
challenges that Scott faced
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但现实是,斯科特团队面临的挑战
07:11
were the same that we faced:
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于我们而言,同样存在:
07:13
those of the weather and of
what Scott called glide,
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天气恶劣,以及
07:17
the amount of friction between
the sledges and the snow.
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雪橇及雪之间大量的摩擦产生的
斯科特称之为“滑动”的作用力。
07:20
The lowest wind chill
we experienced was in the -70s,
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风力最低也是70mps
07:24
and we had zero visibility,
what's called white-out,
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伸手不见五指
这就是所谓的白茫茫一片。
07:27
for much of our journey.
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我们旅程大多数时候都是这样的。
07:30
We traveled up and down one of the largest
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我们穿行在世界上最大,也是最危险的
07:32
and most dangerous glaciers
in the world, the Beardmore glacier.
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冰川之一,比尔德莫尔冰川之上。
07:35
It's 110 miles long; most of its surface
is what's called blue ice.
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它长达110米,表层大部分由一种叫
蓝冰的物质覆盖。
07:39
You can see it's a beautiful,
shimmering steel-hard blue surface
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你们可以看到,
它是美丽却难以使车轮前行的光滑冰川
07:42
covered with thousands
and thousands of crevasses,
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它由数以千计的溶洞覆盖
07:46
these deep cracks in the glacial ice
up to 200 feet deep.
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最深处可达200英尺深。
07:50
Planes can't land here,
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飞机无法着陆,
07:52
so we were at the most risk,
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所以我们的生命岌岌可危,
07:55
technically, when we had the slimmest
chance of being rescued.
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我们生还的几率近乎为零。
08:00
We got to the South Pole
after 61 days on foot,
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除了有一天因为天气状况太糟糕而停止行进
08:04
with one day off for bad weather,
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再去南极点的路上
在徒步走了61天后
08:06
and I'm sad to say, it was
something of an anticlimax.
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我要说,这确实难于上青天。
08:09
There's a permanent American base,
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这里有个永久的美国基地,
08:11
the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station
at the South Pole.
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-在南极点的阿姆森-斯科特极点考察站。
08:15
They have an airstrip,
they have a canteen,
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那儿有停机坪
厨房,
08:16
they have hot showers,
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热水浴。
08:18
they have a post office, a tourist shop,
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有邮局,游轮,
08:20
a basketball court that doubles
as a movie theater.
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以及两倍于一个电影院的篮球场。
08:24
So it's a bit different these days,
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所以,这些天略有不同
08:26
and there are also acres of junk.
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也有成堆的垃圾。
08:27
I think it's a marvelous thing
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我觉得人类一年365天
08:29
that humans can exist
365 days of the year
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只靠汉堡,热水和影院就能生活
08:34
with hamburgers and hot showers
and movie theaters,
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简直不可思议。
08:38
but it does seem to produce
a lot of empty cardboard boxes.
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2756
但这似乎确实产生了许多空纸板盒。
08:40
You can see on the left of
this photograph,
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2062
你可以看到在这张照片的左面,
08:42
several square acres of junk
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1435
有好几平方的垃圾
08:44
waiting to be flown out
from the South Pole.
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2513
等着从南极点拖走。
08:46
But there is also a pole at the South Pole,
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4032
但南极也有个极点,
08:50
and we got there on foot, unassisted,
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我们没有技术支持
08:54
unsupported, by the hardest route,
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走最困难的路线
08:55
900 miles in record time,
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共计900英里
08:58
dragging more weight
than anyone in history.
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2048
而且负重超过史上任何一位考察队员。
09:00
And if we'd stopped there
and flown home,
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1969
而如果我们止步于此,
折返离开,
09:02
which would have been
the eminently sensible thing to do,
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去做更有意义的事
09:05
then my talk would end here
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1881
那我的演讲也就到此为止了。
09:07
and it would end something like this.
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也就不足为奇。
09:10
If you have the right team around you,
the right tools, the right technology,
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但如果你有优秀的团队,适宜的工具
险情的科技
09:15
and if you have enough self-belief
and enough determination,
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而且,自信满满
意志坚定
09:19
then anything is possible.
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那一切险阻当不在话下。
09:24
But then we turned around,
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但那时,我们四周晃了会儿,
09:27
and this is where things get interesting.
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2759
然后一切变得有趣起来了。
09:30
High on the Antarctic plateau,
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2794
在亚特兰地高地,
09:32
over 10,000 feet, it's very windy,
very cold, very dry, we were exhausted.
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3999
超过10000英尺的地方,寒风凛冽
天寒地燥,我们精疲力竭。
09:36
We'd covered 35 marathons,
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1870
我们翻阅了35座冰川
09:38
we were only halfway,
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1586
但这只是路途一半。
09:40
and we had a safety net, of course,
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2031
但我们肯定有安全措施,
09:42
of ski planes and satellite phones
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2124
我们有雪上飞机和卫星电话。
09:44
and live, 24-hour tracking beacons
that didn't exist for Scott,
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4053
以及24小时时刻待命的后援团,
斯科特可没有这些安全措施。
09:48
but in hindsight,
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1742
但从制高点来看,
09:50
rather than making our lives easier,
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2066
安全措施并未使我们的生活更好
09:52
the safety net actually allowed us
183
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2159
它确实际上
09:54
to cut things very fine indeed,
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3855
使东西四分五裂。
09:58
to sail very close to our absolute
limits as human beings.
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让我们无限接近人类极限。
10:02
And it is an exquisite form of torture
186
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3473
并且,它是一种细致的折磨方式
10:05
to exhaust yourself to the point
of starvation day after day
187
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日复一日,将你拖到饥饿的零界点,
使你精疲力竭。
10:08
while dragging a sledge
full of food.
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4262
-而且你是拉着一雪橇满满的食物。
10:12
For years, I'd been writing glib lines
in sponsorship proposals
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3927
数年来,我一直以资助顾问的身份撰写
10:16
about pushing the limits
of human endurance,
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3111
关于推动人类极限的油腔滑调的文章。
10:19
but in reality, that was
a very frightening place to be indeed.
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4412
实际上,它确实是个令人畏惧的领域。
10:24
We had, before we'd got to the Pole,
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1909
在去南极前,我们
10:26
two weeks of almost permanent
headwind, which slowed us down.
193
626045
3464
给头顶吹了2周的风,让我们反应迟钝。
10:29
As a result, we'd had several days
of eating half rations.
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2650
结果,好几天我们食欲减半。
10:32
We had a finite amount of food
in the sledges to make this journey,
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2719
我们为这次行程在雪橇中准备了足量食物
10:34
so we were trying to string that out
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634878
2002
所以我们通过
10:36
by reducing our intake to half
the calories we should have been eating.
197
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3913
减少我们的卡路里摄入量至一半
来节省食物
10:40
As a result, we both became
increasingly hypoglycemic —
198
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3619
结果,我们
身体机能出现问题
10:44
we had low blood sugar
levels day after day —
199
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2824
我们日复一日,血糖指数
不断降低
10:47
and increasingly susceptible
to the extreme cold.
200
647236
4758
但对严寒的适应程度却越发的好了。
10:51
Tarka took this photo of me one evening
201
651994
2103
在一个晚上,Tarka拍了这张我的照片
10:54
after I'd nearly passed out
with hypothermia.
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654097
2130
-就在我近乎因为低温昏过去时。
10:56
We both had repeated bouts of hypothermia,
something I hadn't experienced before,
203
656227
4808
我们身体都反复经历低温,
这之前从未有过。
11:01
and it was very humbling indeed.
204
661035
1711
这让人颤抖。
11:02
As much as you might
like to think, as I do,
205
662746
3668
就像你们可能会想,我也这么想过,
11:06
that you're the kind
of person who doesn't quit,
206
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2256
你是不会退缩的人
11:08
that you'll go down swinging,
207
668670
1994
你会继续探索
11:10
hypothermia doesn't leave you much choice.
208
670664
2252
低温并不会改变你选择。
11:12
You become utterly incapacitated.
209
672916
2810
你变得行为无法自主,
11:15
It's like being a drunk toddler.
210
675726
3181
像醉汉一样。
11:18
You become pathetic.
211
678907
1973
你变得又笨又可怜。
11:20
I remember just wanting
to lie down and quit.
212
680880
4119
我记得,我当时只想
躺下来。然后退出。
11:24
It was a peculiar, peculiar feeling,
213
684999
2174
这是极为真切的感受。
11:27
and a real surprise to me
to be debilitated to that degree.
214
687173
5239
认输的想法
真的令我震惊不已。
11:32
And then we ran out of food completely,
215
692412
4482
然后我们食物消耗殆尽,
11:36
46 miles short of the first of the depots
216
696894
3458
离我们倚赖的第一仓库
11:40
that we'd laid on our outward journey.
217
700352
1865
还有46英里远
11:42
We'd laid 10 depots of food,
218
702217
1343
我们拿出10样食物,
11:43
literally burying food and fuel,
for our return journey —
219
703560
2717
烧食物与汽油
准备返程
11:46
the fuel was for a cooker so you
could melt snow to get water —
220
706277
3277
燃油是为炊具准备的
这样你可以把雪变成水。
11:49
and I was forced to make the decision
to call for a resupply flight,
221
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5807
我不得不呼叫供应飞机
11:55
a ski plane carrying eight days of food
to tide us over that gap.
222
715361
4569
这是带着可以助我们越过那道坎的
8天食物的雪上飞机。
11:59
They took 12 hours to reach us
from the other side of Antarctica.
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719930
3359
他们用了12小时
从亚特兰地的另一头飞到我们这边
12:03
Calling for that plane was one of
the toughest decisions of my life.
224
723289
3709
呼叫那趟飞机
是我人生中最艰难的决定之一。
12:06
And I sound like a bit of a fraud
standing here now with a sort of belly.
225
726998
3476
我听上去就像
无助的站在那儿朝旷野呼唤的人
12:10
I've put on 30 pounds
in the last three weeks.
226
730474
2840
在过去三周,我已增重30磅
12:13
Being that hungry has left
an interesting mental scar,
227
733314
3075
在那样的饥饿状态下
导致了另一个有意思的后遗症
12:16
which is that I've been hoovering up
every hotel buffet that I can find.
228
736389
4607
-我一直在找我能找到的所有酒店自助餐
12:20
(Laughter)
229
740996
1778
(笑声)
12:22
But we were genuinely quite hungry,
and in quite a bad way.
230
742774
5694
但我们确实饿得不行
身体状况极其糟糕
12:28
I don't regret calling
for that plane for a second,
231
748468
2441
我并不后悔
呼叫了那趟飞机
12:30
because I'm still standing here alive,
232
750909
2002
因为我还活着站在这儿
12:32
with all digits intact,
telling this story.
233
752911
2060
记述所有细节
诉说着这个故事。
12:34
But getting external assistance like that
was never part of the plan,
234
754971
4738
但是获得那样的额外援助
绝不是计划的一部分。
12:39
and it's something my ego
is still struggling with.
235
759709
3204
这也是我的良心仍旧苦苦挣扎的地方。
12:42
This was the biggest dream I've ever had,
236
762913
3042
这是我有生以来最大的梦想
12:45
and it was so nearly perfect.
237
765955
2092
它近乎完美。
12:48
On the way back down to the coast,
238
768967
1681
再回海岸的路上
12:50
our crampons — they're
the spikes on our boots
239
770648
2191
我们的破冰撬-
他们是我们
12:52
that we have for traveling
over this blue ice on the glacier —
240
772839
2926
在这个蓝色冰川上行进的砥柱-坏掉了。
12:55
broke on the top of the Beardmore.
241
775765
1655
-就在本德穆尔冰川制高点。
12:57
We still had 100 miles to go downhill
242
777420
1765
在这些难以攀岩的蓝冰上,
12:59
on very slippery rock-hard blue ice.
243
779185
2234
我们还有100英里要走下去。
13:01
They needed repairing almost every hour.
244
781419
2391
几乎每小时,他们就要修一下。
13:03
To give you an idea of scale,
245
783810
1951
给你们个大体上的概念吧
13:05
this is looking down towards the mouth
of the Beardmore Glacier.
246
785761
2997
这就像是从本德穆尔冰川顶上向下看。
13:08
You could fit the entirety of Manhattan
in the gap on the horizon.
247
788758
3475
你可以在曼哈顿的间隙瞭望到整个视野。
13:12
That's 20 miles between
Mount Hope and Mount Kiffin.
248
792233
3214
霍普山与凯芙琳山间隔20英里。
13:15
I've never felt as small
as I did in Antarctica.
249
795447
6233
在亚特兰地,我从未感到自己如此渺小。
13:21
When we got down
to the mouth of the glacier,
250
801680
2105
当我们走到冰川口时
13:23
we found fresh snow had obscured
the dozens of deep crevasses.
251
803785
4646
发现新下的雪已经覆盖了岩洞的裂口。
13:28
One of Shackleton's men described
crossing this sort of terrain
252
808431
2950
一位沙克雷顿成员描述了
走过这层冰川的感觉,
13:31
as like walking over the glass roof
of a railway station.
253
811381
4994
就像走过铁路表面一样。
13:36
We fell through more times
than I can remember,
254
816375
2914
我己经记不得有多少次,
13:39
usually just putting a ski
or a boot through the snow.
255
819289
3432
我们在雪上放一块
雪橇或木板来看有没有洞
13:42
Occasionally we went in all
the way up to our armpits,
256
822721
2603
偶尔,我们会掉进我们的窝
13:45
but thankfully never deeper than that.
257
825324
3443
但感谢上帝,没有更深了。
13:48
And less than five weeks ago,
after 105 days,
258
828767
4180
五周前,也就是105天后,
13:52
we crossed this oddly
inauspicious finish line,
259
832947
3575
我们越过了终点线。
13:56
the coast of Ross Island
on the New Zealand side of Antarctica.
260
836522
3022
在亚特兰地新西兰的罗斯群岛海岸线。
13:59
You can see the ice in the foreground
261
839544
2150
你可以看到在前边的冰
14:01
and the sort of rubbly rock behind that.
262
841694
2862
以及后边风化的岩石。
14:04
Behind us lay an unbroken
ski trail of nearly 1,800 miles.
263
844556
3802
在我们后面,有一条长达1800英里
未被破坏的冰线。
14:08
We'd made the longest ever
polar journey on foot,
264
848358
2508
我们曾徒步走完了有史以来最长的极圈旅程
14:10
something I'd been dreaming
of doing for a decade.
265
850866
4390
这我已梦想了几十年了。
14:15
And looking back,
266
855256
2015
回首往事
14:17
I still stand by all the things
267
857271
2395
我依然支持
14:19
I've been saying for years
268
859666
1582
我数年来所说的
14:21
about the importance of goals
269
861248
2119
有关目标,决心,及自信
14:23
and determination and self-belief,
270
863367
3442
的重要性。
14:26
but I'll also admit that I hadn't given
much thought to what happens
271
866809
4711
但我也承认我并未充分考虑
14:31
when you reach the all-consuming goal
272
871520
3912
当你完成所有预定目标时会发生的事
14:35
that you've dedicated
most of your adult life to,
273
875432
3318
这些目标是你成人生活中为之贡献一生的
14:38
and the reality is that I'm
still figuring that bit out.
274
878750
3580
现实就是,我还在想要阐明它。
14:42
As I said, there are very few
superficial signs that I've been away.
275
882330
3601
我也说过,几乎没有迹象表明我离开过。
14:45
I've put on 30 pounds.
276
885931
1451
我增重了30磅
14:47
I've got some very faint, probably
covered in makeup now, frostbite scars.
277
887382
3528
我有了些淡淡的可能现在已消失的小红斑
14:50
I've got one on my nose, one on
each cheek, from where the goggles are,
278
890910
3473
鼻子上,脸颊上各一处,
都是被护目镜压出来的。
14:54
but inside I am a very
different person indeed.
279
894383
4745
但内里,我改头换面了。
14:59
If I'm honest,
280
899128
2497
如果要我诚实到来,
15:01
Antarctica challenged me
and humbled me so deeply
281
901625
5175
亚特兰地如此深入的挑战我并改变了我
15:06
that I'm not sure I'll ever be able
to put it into words.
282
906800
3703
这是不能用言语描述的变化。
15:10
I'm still struggling to piece
together my thoughts.
283
910503
4100
我仍在竭力重组我的想法
15:14
That I'm standing here
telling this story
284
914603
3645
我站在这儿讲这个故事的原因就是,
15:18
is proof that we all can
accomplish great things,
285
918248
4778
为了证明我们都能完成伟大的事情。
15:23
through ambition, through passion,
286
923026
2154
通过雄心,通过激情,
15:25
through sheer stubbornness,
287
925180
2162
通过傲慢,固执
15:27
by refusing to quit,
288
927342
1515
通过拒绝离开
15:28
that if you dream something
hard enough, as Sting said,
289
928857
2956
如果你梦想的事足够艰难,
正如斯蒂芬说过的,
15:31
it does indeed come to pass.
290
931813
3071
它确然能实现。
15:34
But I'm also standing here
saying, you know what,
291
934884
3346
但我也站在这儿告诉你们,
15:38
that cliche about the journey being
more important than the destination?
292
938230
5981
你们应当知道的是,路途远必目的地重要
15:44
There's something in that.
293
944211
3321
有据可循
15:47
The closer I got to my finish line,
294
947532
2369
我越靠近我的终点线
15:49
that rubbly, rocky coast of Ross Island,
295
949901
3756
罗斯群岛粗陋的海岸
15:53
the more I started to realize
that the biggest lesson
296
953657
3194
我越发开始意识到这次很长,很难的徒步
15:56
that this very long, very hard walk
might be teaching me
297
956851
4580
带给我的最大教训,
那就是
16:01
is that happiness is not
a finish line,
298
961431
3693
对我们人类来说
16:05
that for us humans,
299
965124
1570
幸福不是终点线
16:06
the perfection that so many of
us seem to dream of
300
966694
3476
我们许多人所梦想的完美
16:10
might not ever be truly attainable,
301
970170
4080
也许遥不可及。
16:14
and that if we can't feel content
here, today, now, on our journeys
302
974250
8466
如果我们不能在此时,此地,此行中
感到知足,
16:22
amidst the mess and the striving
that we all inhabit,
303
982716
4468
承认我们继承的混乱与无序
16:27
the open loops,
the half-finished to-do lists,
304
987184
2720
打开的屋顶
完成一半的清单
16:29
the could-do-better-next-times,
305
989904
2852
也许下次会更好的想法
16:32
then we might never feel it.
306
992756
3299
那我们可能永远感受不到它。
16:36
A lot of people have asked me, what next?
307
996055
3576
许多人曾问过我,接下来呢?
16:39
Right now, I am very happy just recovering
and in front of hotel buffets.
308
999631
6998
现在,我很高兴刚从旅馆自助餐后遗症中
恢复过来
16:46
But as Bob Hope put it,
309
1006629
4353
但就像鲍勃·霍普期望的
16:50
I feel very humble,
310
1010982
2296
我感到很卑微。
16:53
but I think I have the strength
of character to fight it. (Laughter)
311
1013278
4069
但我认为我有强大的人格来与他斗争(笑)
16:57
Thank you.
312
1017347
1950
谢谢
16:59
(Applause)
313
1019297
3678
(掌声)
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