My road trip through the whitest towns in America | Rich Benjamin

翻译人员: Min Gao 校对人员: chordy left

Imagine a place where your neighbors greet your children by name;

试想一下，有一个地方，邻居们可以叫得出你家小孩的名字

a place with splendid vistas;

景色优美

a place where you can drive just 20 minutes

在这个地方，你只需要开车20分钟

and put your sailboat on the water.

就可以水中泛舟

It's a seductive place, isn't it?

这是一个世外桃源，不是吗

I don't live there.

我并不住这儿

(Laughter)

（笑声）

But I did journey on a 27,000-mile trip

两年来，我途径两万七千公里

for two years, to the fastest-growing and whitest counties in America.

到达美国发展最快并且白种人居民比例最高的地方

What is a Whitopia?

白色乌托邦是什么？

I define Whitopia in three ways:

我用以下三个概念来定义它

First, a Whitopia has posted at least six percent population growth since 2000.

第一，白色乌托邦在2000年以来人口增长至少为6%

Secondly, the majority of that growth comes from white migrants.

第二，人口增长主要来源于白种人移居

And third, the Whitopia has an ineffable charm,

第三，白色乌托邦非常有魅力

a pleasant look and feel,

让人愉悦的外观和感受

a je Ne sais quoi.

一种难以言明的美好特质

(Laughter)

（笑声）

To learn how and why Whitopias are ticking,

为了探究白色乌托邦的起源，并且它为何能发展起来

I immersed myself for several months apiece in three of them:

我分别花了好几个月深入当地，去了白色乌托邦的三个代表城市

first, St. George, Utah;

第一个，犹他州的圣乔治

second, Coeur d'Alene, Idaho;

第二个，爱达荷的科达伦

and third, Forsyth County, Georgia.

第三个，乔治亚州的佛塞斯郡

First stop, St. George -- a beautiful town of red rock landscapes.

第一个目的地，圣乔治，一个拥有红岩景观的美丽小镇

In the 1850s, Brigham Young dispatched families to St. George

十八世纪五十年代，由于圣乔治炎热干旱的气候，

to grow cotton because of the hot, arid climate.

（摩门教）杨百翰带领教会数家迁往圣乔治种植棉花

And so they called it Utah's Dixie, and the name sticks to this day.

因此他们称这里为犹他之南，这个名字沿用至今

I approached my time in each Whitopia like an anthropologist.

在白色乌托邦， 我像人类学家一样安排我的日程

I made detailed spreadsheets of all the power brokers in the communities,

我列出乌托邦里有权势的人们的详细名单

who I needed to meet, where I needed to be,

我应该拜访谁，需要在哪里约见他们

and I threw myself with gusto in these communities.

我兴致勃勃想融入这些社区

I went to zoning board meetings,

我去了各区域的委员会议

I went to Democratic clubs and Republican clubs.

我也去了民主党和共产党的党会

I went to poker nights.

我还去和他们一起打牌

In St. George, I rented a home at the Entrada,

我在圣乔治的Entrada租了一栋房子

one of the town's premier gated communities.

这里是小镇最高档的带门禁的小区之一

There were no Motel 6's or Howard Johnsons for me.

在那里，找不到汽车旅馆或是连锁饭店

I lived in Whitopia as a resident, and not like a visitor.

我要在白色乌托邦像当地人一样生活，而不是一个游客。

I rented myself this home by phone.

我是用电话预定到房子的。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

(Applause)

（鼓掌）

Golf is the perfect seductive symbol of Whitopia.

最能代表白色乌托邦的诱惑标志是高尔夫

When I went on my journey,

在我开始旅行前

I had barely ever held a golf club.

我从来没有去过高尔夫俱乐部

By the time I left, I was golfing at least three times a week.

当我离开那里的时候，我每周至少打三次高尔夫

(Laughter)

（笑声）

Golf helps people bond.

高尔夫是连接大家情感的桥梁

Some of the best interviews I ever scored during my trip were on the golf courses.

我甚至在高尔夫球场完成了不少精彩的采访

One venture capitalist, for example, invited me to golf in his private club

有一次，一个风险投资家，邀请我去他的私人俱乐部打球

that had no minority members.

该俱乐部不对少数族裔开放

I also went fishing.

我也去了钓鱼

(Laughter)

（笑声）

Because I had never fished, this fellow had to teach me

因为我从来没有钓过鱼

how to cast my line and what bait to use.

有个老兄得教我如何抛线，如何使用鱼饵

I also played poker every weekend.

我每周末和大家一起玩扑克

It was Texas Hold 'em with a $10 buy-in.

那是一种十块起底的德州扑克

My poker mates may have been bluffing about the hands that they drew,

我的牌友在玩扑克的时候偶尔会虚张声势说自己的牌好

but they weren't bluffing about their social beliefs.

但是他们在社会信仰方面十分认真

Some of the most raw, salty conversations I ever had

在旅途中，一些最坦诚别有滋味的谈话

during my journey were at the poker table.

就是发生在扑克桌上

I'm a gung ho entertainer.

我是一个天生娱乐家

I love to cook, I hosted many dinner parties, and in return,

我喜欢做饭，也举办了很多晚餐聚会。

people invited me to their dinner parties,

作为往来，人们也邀请我去他们的晚餐聚会

and to their barbecues, and to their pool parties,

烧烤聚会，泳池派对

and to their birthday parties.

生日派对

But it wasn't all fun.

但是，这段旅程并不是完全有趣的

Immigration turned out to be a big issue in this Whitopia.

在这个白色乌托邦，移民是一个很大的问题

The St. George's Citizens Council on Illegal Immigration

圣乔治反对非法移民居民委员会经常组织

held regular and active protests against immigration,

关于非法移民的抗议

and so what I gleaned from this Whitopia is what a hot debate this would become.

这就是我在当地所得知的

It was a real-time preview, and so it has become.

这是一个非常激烈的议题

Next stop: Almost Heaven, a cabin I rented for myself

下一个目的地，是一个天堂般的地方。

我在北爱达荷的科达伦租了一个小木屋

in Coeur d'Alene, in the beautiful North Idaho panhandle.

I rented this place for myself, also by phone.

我是自己租的这个地方，当然，还是用电话预定的。

(Laughter)

（笑声）

The book "A Thousand Places To See Before You Die" lists Coeur d'Alene --

那本叫做《死前必去的一千个地方》的书把科达伦也列在其中

it's a gorgeous paradise for huntsmen, boatmen and fishermen.

这里是猎人，船夫和捕鱼者的天堂

My growing golf skills came in handy in Coeur d'Alene.

我越来越好的高尔夫球技在科达伦让我得心应手

I golfed with retired LAPD cops.

我和退休的洛杉矶警察局的警察一起打球

In 1993, around 11,000 families and cops

在一九九三年，一万一千多个家庭和警察经历了“洛杉矶种族骚乱”之后

fled Los Angeles after the L.A. racial unrest,

逃离了洛杉矶，迁往北爱荷华

for North Idaho, and they've built an expatriated community.

他们建造了一个世外桃源一般的社区

Given the conservatism of these cops,

介于这些警察的保守主义

there's no surprise that North Idaho has a strong gun culture.

不出大家所料，北爱荷华有浓厚的枪支文化

In fact, it is said, North Idaho has more gun dealers than gas stations.

据说现实中，北爱达荷枪支经销商比加油站还要多

So what's a resident to do to fit in?

那么， 应该怎么做去融入当地人生活呢

I hit the gun club.

我去了枪支俱乐部

When I rented a gun, the gentleman behind the counter

当我租枪的时候

was perfectly pleasant and kind,

柜台后面的那位男士非常和善

until I showed him my New York City driver's license.

在我给他看了我纽约州的驾照后

That's when he got nervous.

他略显迟疑

I'm not as bad a shot as I thought I might have been.

我以为我不善枪法，其实不然

What I learned from North Idaho is the peculiar brand of paranoia

我在北爱达荷学到的还有一种特有的的偏执

that can permeate a community when so many cops and guns are around.

在警察与枪支遍地的爱达荷，这种偏执扎根于此

In North Idaho, in my red pickup truck,

在北爱达荷，我在我的红色皮卡车里

I kept a notepad.

放了一个记事本

And in that notepad I counted more Confederate flags than black people.

在记事本中，我数到的联邦旗个数比遇到的黑人还要多

In North Idaho, I found Confederate flags

在北爱达荷

on key chains, on cellphone paraphernalia,

我在钥匙链，手机用品，还有车上

and on cars.

都能看到联邦旗

About a seven-minute drive from my hidden lake cabin

从我住的湖边小屋开七分钟路程

was the compound of Aryan Nations,

住的是雅利安民族

the white supremacist group.

他们是白人至上主义者

America's Promise Ministries, the religious arm of Aryan Nations,

美国希望之都，雅利安民族的宗教组织

happened to have a three-day retreat during my visit.

在我旅游的时候恰好有三天的聚会

So I decided to crash it.

因此，我决定去凑个热闹

(Laughter)

（笑声）

I'm the only non-Aryan journalist I'm aware of ever to have done so.

我发现我是前所未有的唯一一位非雅利安族记者

(Laughter)

（笑声）

Among the many memorable episodes of that retreat...

在聚会上无数难以忘怀的故事中，其中之一是

(Laughter)

（笑声）

...is when Abe, an Aryan, sidled up next to me.

当一个名叫安培的雅利安人悄悄走过来，坐在我身边

He slapped my knee, and he said, "Hey Rich, I just want you to know one thing.

他拍着我的膝盖，说“你好，理查，我只想让你知道一件事

We are not white supremacists. We are white separatists.

我们并不是白人至上主义者，我们是白人分离主义者

We don't think we're better than you,

我们并不认为我们比你优越

we just want to be away from you."

我们只是想离你们远一点

(Laughter)

（笑声）

Indeed, most white people in Whitopia are neither white supremacists

确实，在白色乌托邦生活的许多白人，并不是白人之上主义者

or white separatists;

也不是白人分离主义者

in fact, they're not there for explicitly racial reasons at all.

实际上，他们根本不是由于特定的种族原因而生活在此

Rather, they emigrate there

恰恰相反，他们迁居于此

for friendliness, comfort, security, safety --

是为了友好，舒适， 安全，踏实

reasons that they implicitly associate to whiteness in itself.

他们将这些原因与白种人自身紧密相连

Next stop was Georgia.

下一站是乔治亚

In Georgia, I stayed in an exurb north of Atlanta.

在这里，我住在亚特兰大北边的郊区

In Utah, I found poker;

我在犹他，学会了扑克

in Idaho, I found guns;

我在爱达荷，与枪结缘

in Georgia, I found God.

我在乔治亚，感受到了上帝

(Laughter)

（笑声）

The way that I immersed myself in this Whitopia

我融入这个白色乌托邦的方法

was to become active at First Redeemer Church,

是在第一救世主教堂变得积极主动

a megachurch that's so huge that it has golf carts

这个大型教堂如此之大，以至于它有自己的高尔夫球车

to escort the congregants around its many parking lots on campus.

用来护送教徒们穿梭于校园里的众多停车场

I was active in the youth ministry.

我在青年义工团非常活跃

And for me, personally, I was more comfortable in this Whitopia

对于我自身而言，比起科罗拉多，爱达荷，甚至波士顿而言，

than say, in a Colorado, or an Idaho, or even a suburban Boston.

我更喜欢这个白色乌托邦

That is because [there], in Georgia,

原因是白色人种和黑色人种

white people and black people are more historically familiar to one another.

在很久以前就彼此熟知

I was less exotic in this Whitopia.

这使得我在乔治亚没有那么的异国情调

(Laughter)

（笑声）

But what does it all mean?

但是，这一切都说明了什么呢？

Whitopian dreaming, Whitopia migration, is a push-pull phenomenon,

白色乌托邦幻想和白色乌托邦迁移史，是一个推拉式现象

full of alarming pushes and alluring pulls,

充满了令人震惊的推力和让人诱惑的拉力

and Whitopia operates at the level of conscious and unconscious bias.

而且白色乌托邦在有意与无意间的偏见中运行着

It's possible for people to be in Whitopia not for racist reasons,

人们来到白色乌托邦并不都是因为种族问题

though it has racist outcomes.

但是这造成了种族主义

Many Whitopians feel pushed by illegals,

许多白色乌托邦人觉得被非法行为，滥用社会福利，

social welfare abuse, minorities, density, crowded schools.

少数族裔，人口密度，拥挤的学校推出去

Many Whitopians feel pulled by merit,

许多白色乌托邦人因奖金，自由，特权诱惑

freedom, the allure of privatism -- privatized places, privatized people,

私人领域，私有化人民，私有财产

privatized things.

而拉进去

And I learned in Whitopia how a country can have racism

我从白色乌托邦所学到，在一个没有种族主义者的国家

without racists.

如何能够存在着种族主义

Many of my smug urban liberal friends

我许多的特立独行的都市自由主义的朋友

couldn't believe I would go on such a venture.

难以相信我踏上了这样一个旅途

The reality is that many white Americans are affable and kind.

事实上许多白种美国人是友善和蔼的

Interpersonal race relations -- how we treat each other as human beings --

如今种族间的人际关系——我们如何像对待人类一样对待彼此

are vastly better than in my parents' generation.

比我父母那一代人好得多

Can you imagine me going to Whitopia 40 years ago?

你能想象四十年前，我去白色乌托邦旅游吗

What a journey that would have been.

那该是多么难以描述的旅程啊

(Laughter)

（笑声）

And yet, some things haven't changed.

然而，有些事情并没有变化

America is as residentially and educationally segregated today

美国目前还是存在教育阶级及居住地隔离分层现象

as it was in 1970.

和1970年的情况并没有什么差别

As Americans, we often find ways to cook for each other,

作为美国人，我们经常可以一起做饭

to dance with each other,

一起跳舞

to host with each other,

互相做客

but why can't that translate into how we treat each other as communities?

但是我们为什么不能转变成我们彼此作为族群社区存在呢

It's a devastating irony,

这是天大的讽刺

how we have gone forward as individuals,

我们在个体层面进步

and backwards as communities.

却在族群方面退步

One of the Whitopian outlooks that really hit me

白色乌托邦最让我震惊的是一句谚语

was a proverbial saying:

那句话是这样讲的

"One black man is a delightful dinner guest;

一个黑人是一个受人喜爱的晚餐贵宾

50 black men is a ghetto."

五十个黑人就变成了贫民窟

One of the big contexts animating my Whitopian journey was the year 2042.

鼓励我坚持我的白色乌托邦之旅的大背景是2042年

By 2042, white people will no longer be the American majority.

到了2042年，白人不再是美国人口的主要构成

As such, will there be more Whitopias?

既然如此，会有更多的白色乌托邦出现吗

In looking at this,

在思考这个问题时

the danger of Whitopia is that the more segregation we have,

白色乌托邦带来的危险是，人们越分离

the less we can look at and confront conscious and unconscious bias.

就越无法看到有意无意的偏见

I ventured on my two-year, 27,000 mile journey

在我两年的两万七千英里的旅途中

to learn where, why, and how white people are fleeing,

我了解了白人为什么要逃，逃去那里，怎么逃

but I didn't expect to have so much fun on my journey.

但是我并没想到这个旅途会如此有趣

(Laughter)

（笑声）

I didn't expect to learn so much about myself.

我也并没有期望能更了解自己

I don't expect I'll be living in a Whitopia --

我没想过居住在白色乌托邦

or a Blacktopia, for that matter.

或者黑色乌托邦。但是

I do plan to continue golfing every chance I get.

我有计划着一有机会就去打高尔夫

(Laughter)

（笑声）

And I'll just have to leave the guns and megachurches back in Whitopia.

而且我得和白色乌托邦里的枪支和大型教堂说再见了

Thank you.

谢谢

(Applause)

（掌声）