My road trip through the whitest towns in America | Rich Benjamin

譯者: Regina Chu 審譯者: Marssi Draw

Imagine a place where your neighbors greet your children by name;

想像一下有個地方， 你的鄰居叫得出你孩子的名字；

a place with splendid vistas;

景觀超好；

a place where you can drive just 20 minutes

你只要開車 20 分鐘

and put your sailboat on the water.

就能下水駕船。

It's a seductive place, isn't it?

很誘人的地方，對吧？

I don't live there.

我不住在那裡。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

But I did journey on a 27,000-mile trip

但是我的確踏上 近四萬四千公里的旅程，

for two years, to the fastest-growing and whitest counties in America.

在兩年間，到美國幾個快速成長 且居民很白的幾個縣走走。

What is a Whitopia?

什麼是白色烏托邦？

I define Whitopia in three ways:

我以三點定義白色烏托邦：

First, a Whitopia has posted at least six percent population growth since 2000.

第一，白色烏托邦自 2000 年起 至少有 6% 的人口成長。

Secondly, the majority of that growth comes from white migrants.

第二，人口成長 主要是因為白種人移入。

And third, the Whitopia has an ineffable charm,

第三，白色烏托邦 有著難以言喻的魅力，

a pleasant look and feel,

舒適的景觀和感覺，

a je Ne sais quoi.

不知其所以然也。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

To learn how and why Whitopias are ticking,

要瞭解白色烏托邦如何 又為何會發展起來，

I immersed myself for several months apiece in three of them:

我花了幾個月 讓自己深入其中三個地方：

first, St. George, Utah;

第一，猶他州聖喬治；

second, Coeur d'Alene, Idaho;

第二，愛達荷州科達倫；

and third, Forsyth County, Georgia.

及第三，喬治亞州福賽斯郡。

First stop, St. George -- a beautiful town of red rock landscapes.

第一站，聖喬治， 是個有著紅岩景色的美麗小鎮，

In the 1850s, Brigham Young dispatched families to St. George

1850 年代，摩門教的楊百翰 差派數個家庭到聖喬治種植棉花，

to grow cotton because of the hot, arid climate.

因為那裡的炎熱乾燥氣候很適合。

And so they called it Utah's Dixie, and the name sticks to this day.

因此他們稱這裡為猶他之南， 而且這個名字延用至今。

I approached my time in each Whitopia like an anthropologist.

我以人類學者之姿 前進每一座白色烏托邦。

I made detailed spreadsheets of all the power brokers in the communities,

我在試算表上列出社區裡 所有的權力掮客，

who I needed to meet, where I needed to be,

什麼人一定要見， 需要出現在什麼地方，

and I threw myself with gusto in these communities.

而且我興致勃勃的 去參與社區活動。

I went to zoning board meetings,

我去都市計畫委員會，

I went to Democratic clubs and Republican clubs.

我去民主黨及共和黨的黨會，

I went to poker nights.

我還去跟人打撲克牌。

In St. George, I rented a home at the Entrada,

我在聖喬治的 「怡家」社區租了一棟房子，

one of the town's premier gated communities.

這是城裡數一數二 有警衛管理的豪宅區。

There were no Motel 6's or Howard Johnsons for me.

我可不能住在廉價的 汽車旅館或連鎖飯店。

I lived in Whitopia as a resident, and not like a visitor.

我要在白色烏托邦裡當居民， 而不是觀光客。

I rented myself this home by phone.

我是打電話租屋的。 （譯注：不用顯示自己是黑人）

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

(Applause)

（掌聲）

Golf is the perfect seductive symbol of Whitopia.

高爾夫是白色烏托邦的 完美誘惑代表。

When I went on my journey,

我開始這趟旅程時，

I had barely ever held a golf club.

連高爾夫球桿都沒拿過。

By the time I left, I was golfing at least three times a week.

但在我結束時， 我每星期至少要打三次。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Golf helps people bond.

打高爾夫促進人的情誼。

Some of the best interviews I ever scored during my trip were on the golf courses.

這趟旅程中我最好的訪談 都是在高爾夫球場上聊來的。

One venture capitalist, for example, invited me to golf in his private club

舉個例子，有位創投業者 邀我去他私人的高爾夫俱樂部，

that had no minority members.

那裡沒有少數族裔會員。

I also went fishing.

我還去釣魚。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Because I had never fished, this fellow had to teach me

因為我從來沒釣過魚， 這傢伙還得教我

how to cast my line and what bait to use.

如何揮竿、如何選餌。

I also played poker every weekend.

我每個週末還玩撲克。

It was Texas Hold 'em with a $10 buy-in.

玩德州撲克，參賽金十美元。

My poker mates may have been bluffing about the hands that they drew,

雖然我的撲克牌友每次 都虛張聲勢說自己有一手好牌，

but they weren't bluffing about their social beliefs.

但他們對於自己的 社會信念可一點都不假。

Some of the most raw, salty conversations I ever had

旅程中有好些尖酸辛辣的對話

during my journey were at the poker table.

都在撲克牌桌上產生。

I'm a gung ho entertainer.

我是個很賣力的主人。

I love to cook, I hosted many dinner parties, and in return,

我很愛烹飪，開了很多晚餐趴，

people invited me to their dinner parties,

他們也回邀我去他們的晚餐趴，

and to their barbecues, and to their pool parties,

還有他們的烤肉趴、泳池趴、

and to their birthday parties.

生日趴。

But it wasn't all fun.

但不是每件事都很好玩。

Immigration turned out to be a big issue in this Whitopia.

事實證明移民在這座 白色烏托邦是個大議題。

The St. George's Citizens Council on Illegal Immigration

聖喬治的「整治非法移民市民委員會」

held regular and active protests against immigration,

定期舉行抗議活動， 積極反對外來移民，

and so what I gleaned from this Whitopia is what a hot debate this would become.

所以我在這座 白色烏托邦搜集到的情報，

就是這可能會成為 非常激烈的辯論。

It was a real-time preview, and so it has become.

這是當時的即時預覽， 而現在的確也變成如此。

Next stop: Almost Heaven, a cabin I rented for myself

下一站：科達倫的「人間天堂」 是我給我自己租的小木屋，

in Coeur d'Alene, in the beautiful North Idaho panhandle.

位於美麗的愛達荷州， 狹長的那一塊。

I rented this place for myself, also by phone.

我自己租下這個地方， 也是用電話。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

The book "A Thousand Places To See Before You Die" lists Coeur d'Alene --

《1000 個死前必遊勝地》 柯達倫名列其一。

it's a gorgeous paradise for huntsmen, boatmen and fishermen.

那真的是獵人、船友 及漁友的美麗天堂。

My growing golf skills came in handy in Coeur d'Alene.

我愈來愈好的高爾夫技巧 在柯達倫派上用場。

I golfed with retired LAPD cops.

我與退休的洛杉磯警察 一起打高爾夫。

In 1993, around 11,000 families and cops

1993 年，約有 一萬一千個家庭及警察，

fled Los Angeles after the L.A. racial unrest,

在洛杉磯種族暴動後，

for North Idaho, and they've built an expatriated community.

從洛杉磯逃到北愛達荷， 在此建造了一個流放社區。

Given the conservatism of these cops,

鑑於這些警察的保守主義，

there's no surprise that North Idaho has a strong gun culture.

北愛達荷有很強烈的 擁槍文化一點也不意外。

In fact, it is said, North Idaho has more gun dealers than gas stations.

事實上，大家都說， 北愛達荷的槍枝業者比加油站還多。

So what's a resident to do to fit in?

所以，居民要做什麼才能融入呢？

I hit the gun club.

我跑去槍枝俱樂部。

When I rented a gun, the gentleman behind the counter

我去租槍的時候，

櫃檯的先生非常和藹可親，

was perfectly pleasant and kind,

until I showed him my New York City driver's license.

直到我給他紐約市的駕照。

That's when he got nervous.

那時他就開始緊張了。

I'm not as bad a shot as I thought I might have been.

我以為我是個糟糕的射手， 但是其實還好。

What I learned from North Idaho is the peculiar brand of paranoia

我在北愛達荷學到的是， 有這麼多警察及槍枝在四周，

that can permeate a community when so many cops and guns are around.

的確會有某種 奇特的妄想深植社區之中。

In North Idaho, in my red pickup truck,

在北愛達荷時， 我在我的小紅載卡多內

I kept a notepad.

放著一本記事簿。

And in that notepad I counted more Confederate flags than black people.

那本記事簿上我算到的 南軍聯盟國旗比黑人還多。

In North Idaho, I found Confederate flags

在北愛達荷， 我發現南軍聯盟國旗

on key chains, on cellphone paraphernalia,

不但做成鑰匙圈、手機吊飾，

and on cars.

還掛在車上。

About a seven-minute drive from my hidden lake cabin

離我海登湖畔小屋開車 七分鐘就會到的地方，

was the compound of Aryan Nations,

是「亞利安國」的聚會營地，

the white supremacist group.

他們是白人至上主義團體。

America's Promise Ministries, the religious arm of Aryan Nations,

「美國的承諾事工」 為亞利安國的宗教部門，

happened to have a three-day retreat during my visit.

剛好在我暫住的時候 舉行三天的退修會。

So I decided to crash it.

所以我決定當個不速之客。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

I'm the only non-Aryan journalist I'm aware of ever to have done so.

我是我所知道唯一做過這種事的 非亞利安（白人）記者，

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Among the many memorable episodes of that retreat...

那場退修會上演了 許多難以忘懷的情節，

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

...is when Abe, an Aryan, sidled up next to me.

其中之一是亞伯，也是名亞利安， 悄悄的走到我身邊。

He slapped my knee, and he said, "Hey Rich, I just want you to know one thing.

他拍拍我的膝蓋，他說： 「嘿，李其，我想讓你瞭解一件事。

We are not white supremacists. We are white separatists.

我們不是白人至上主義者， 我們是白人分離主義者。

We don't think we're better than you,

我們不認為我們比你好。

we just want to be away from you."

我們只是想離你遠遠的。」

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

Indeed, most white people in Whitopia are neither white supremacists

確實，在白色烏托邦的白人 並非白人至上主義者，

or white separatists;

也不是白人分離主義者；

in fact, they're not there for explicitly racial reasons at all.

事實上，他們根本就不是因為 種族原因而聚集在那裡。

Rather, they emigrate there

相反的，他們移居那裡，

for friendliness, comfort, security, safety --

是因為那裡親切、舒適、 有安全感而且也很安全。

reasons that they implicitly associate to whiteness in itself.

他們很隱晦的將這些原因 與白人本身連結在一起。

Next stop was Georgia.

下一站是喬治亞。

In Georgia, I stayed in an exurb north of Atlanta.

在喬治亞， 我住在北亞特蘭大遠郊區。

In Utah, I found poker;

在猶他，我找到撲克；

in Idaho, I found guns;

在愛達荷，我找到槍枝；

in Georgia, I found God.

在喬治亞，我找到神。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

The way that I immersed myself in this Whitopia

我將自己融入 這座白色烏托邦的方法，

was to become active at First Redeemer Church,

是積極參與「第一救贖主教會」，

a megachurch that's so huge that it has golf carts

這是一座超級巨型教會， 大到甚至有高爾夫球車

to escort the congregants around its many parking lots on campus.

載著會眾穿梭在園區內 眾多的停車場間。

I was active in the youth ministry.

我很積極參與青年事工。

And for me, personally, I was more comfortable in this Whitopia

對我個人而言， 我在這座白色烏托邦感覺更自在，

than say, in a Colorado, or an Idaho, or even a suburban Boston.

比在科羅拉多或愛達荷， 或波士頓近郊都還自在。

That is because [there], in Georgia,

這是因為在喬治亞，

white people and black people are more historically familiar to one another.

白人和黑人在歷史上更熟悉彼此。

I was less exotic in this Whitopia.

我在這座白色烏托邦裡 沒有那麼奇特。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

But what does it all mean?

但是這一切意味著什麼？

Whitopian dreaming, Whitopia migration, is a push-pull phenomenon,

白色烏托邦夢想， 白色烏托邦遷徙，

是一種「推拉」現象，

full of alarming pushes and alluring pulls,

充滿了可怕的推力 及誘人的拉力。

and Whitopia operates at the level of conscious and unconscious bias.

白色烏托邦以有意識 及無意識的偏見運作著。

It's possible for people to be in Whitopia not for racist reasons,

大家會移居白色烏托邦 很可能不是因為種族主義，

though it has racist outcomes.

卻產生種族主義的結果。

Many Whitopians feel pushed by illegals,

許多白色烏托邦的人 覺得被非法移民、

social welfare abuse, minorities, density, crowded schools.

社會福利濫用、少數族裔、 稠密人口，及擁擠的學校推出去。

Many Whitopians feel pulled by merit,

許多白色烏托邦的人覺得被好處、

freedom, the allure of privatism -- privatized places, privatized people,

被自由拉進去，個人主義的誘惑── 私有化的地方、私有化的人民、

privatized things.

私有化的東西。

And I learned in Whitopia how a country can have racism

我在白色烏托邦也學到， 一個國家如何有種族主義，

without racists.

卻沒有種族主義者。

Many of my smug urban liberal friends

我有許多自以為是的 都會自由派朋友，

couldn't believe I would go on such a venture.

都不敢相信 我會踏上這趟冒險之旅。

The reality is that many white Americans are affable and kind.

現實的情況是許多 白種美國人都很和藹善良。

Interpersonal race relations -- how we treat each other as human beings --

個人之間的種族關係── 我們以人類的身分如何對待他人──

are vastly better than in my parents' generation.

都比我父母的年代好太多。

Can you imagine me going to Whitopia 40 years ago?

你能想像如果 40 年前 我去白色烏托邦會是什麼樣子嗎？

What a journey that would have been.

會是多棒的旅程啊！

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

And yet, some things haven't changed.

然而，某些事情仍然不變。

America is as residentially and educationally segregated today

今天，美國在 居住及教育方面的隔離

as it was in 1970.

與 1970 年仍然相同。

As Americans, we often find ways to cook for each other,

身為美國人， 我們常找方法給彼此做點菜，

to dance with each other,

和彼此跳跳舞，

to host with each other,

招待彼此。

but why can't that translate into how we treat each other as communities?

但是為什麼我們不能 以族群的身分這樣對待彼此？

It's a devastating irony,

這是極大的諷刺，

how we have gone forward as individuals,

我們怎麼會在個人方面進步，

and backwards as communities.

卻在族群方面退步？

One of the Whitopian outlooks that really hit me

白色烏托邦存在一個看法 對我產生極大震撼，

was a proverbial saying:

就是一句俗話說：

"One black man is a delightful dinner guest;

「一名黑人是令人愉快的晚宴客人，

50 black men is a ghetto."

50 名黑人就變成貧民窟。」

One of the big contexts animating my Whitopian journey was the year 2042.

驅動我踏上白色烏托邦之旅的 一項大環境背景是 2042 年。

By 2042, white people will no longer be the American majority.

到了 2042 年， 白人不再佔美國的多數。

As such, will there be more Whitopias?

如此一來，會有更多的 白色烏托邦出現嗎？

In looking at this,

從這點來看，

the danger of Whitopia is that the more segregation we have,

白色烏托邦的危險是 我們愈隔離，

the less we can look at and confront conscious and unconscious bias.

我們就愈不能正視及面對 有意識及無意識的偏見。

I ventured on my two-year, 27,000 mile journey

我大膽花了兩年 踏上四萬四千公里的旅程，

to learn where, why, and how white people are fleeing,

去學習白人逃到哪裡， 為什麼要逃，又怎麼逃，

but I didn't expect to have so much fun on my journey.

但我沒想到這趟旅程會這麼好玩。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

I didn't expect to learn so much about myself.

我沒想到我會更瞭解自己。

I don't expect I'll be living in a Whitopia --

我沒想到我會住在白色烏托邦──

or a Blacktopia, for that matter.

或應該說，黑色烏托邦。

I do plan to continue golfing every chance I get.

我的確想過一有機會 就要繼續打高爾夫。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

And I'll just have to leave the guns and megachurches back in Whitopia.

但我得把槍枝及超級巨型教會 留在白色烏托邦。

Thank you.

謝謝。

(Applause)

（掌聲）