My road trip through the whitest towns in America | Rich Benjamin

645,811 views ・ 2015-08-11

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Imagine a place where your neighbors greet your children by name;
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a place with splendid vistas;
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a place where you can drive just 20 minutes
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and put your sailboat on the water.
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It's a seductive place, isn't it?
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I don't live there.
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(Laughter)
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But I did journey on a 27,000-mile trip
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for two years, to the fastest-growing and whitest counties in America.
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What is a Whitopia?
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I define Whitopia in three ways:
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First, a Whitopia has posted at least six percent population growth since 2000.
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Secondly, the majority of that growth comes from white migrants.
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And third, the Whitopia has an ineffable charm,
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a pleasant look and feel,
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a je Ne sais quoi.
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(Laughter)
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To learn how and why Whitopias are ticking,
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I immersed myself for several months apiece in three of them:
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first, St. George, Utah;
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second, Coeur d'Alene, Idaho;
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and third, Forsyth County, Georgia.
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First stop, St. George -- a beautiful town of red rock landscapes.
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In the 1850s, Brigham Young dispatched families to St. George
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to grow cotton because of the hot, arid climate.
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And so they called it Utah's Dixie, and the name sticks to this day.
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I approached my time in each Whitopia like an anthropologist.
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I made detailed spreadsheets of all the power brokers in the communities,
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who I needed to meet, where I needed to be,
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and I threw myself with gusto in these communities.
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I went to zoning board meetings,
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I went to Democratic clubs and Republican clubs.
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I went to poker nights.
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In St. George, I rented a home at the Entrada,
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one of the town's premier gated communities.
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There were no Motel 6's or Howard Johnsons for me.
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I lived in Whitopia as a resident, and not like a visitor.
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I rented myself this home by phone.
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(Laughter)
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(Applause)
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Golf is the perfect seductive symbol of Whitopia.
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When I went on my journey,
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I had barely ever held a golf club.
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By the time I left, I was golfing at least three times a week.
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(Laughter)
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Golf helps people bond.
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Some of the best interviews I ever scored during my trip were on the golf courses.
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One venture capitalist, for example, invited me to golf in his private club
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that had no minority members.
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I also went fishing.
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(Laughter)
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Because I had never fished, this fellow had to teach me
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how to cast my line and what bait to use.
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I also played poker every weekend.
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It was Texas Hold 'em with a $10 buy-in.
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My poker mates may have been bluffing about the hands that they drew,
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but they weren't bluffing about their social beliefs.
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Some of the most raw, salty conversations I ever had
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during my journey were at the poker table.
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I'm a gung ho entertainer.
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I love to cook, I hosted many dinner parties, and in return,
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people invited me to their dinner parties,
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and to their barbecues, and to their pool parties,
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and to their birthday parties.
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But it wasn't all fun.
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Immigration turned out to be a big issue in this Whitopia.
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The St. George's Citizens Council on Illegal Immigration
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held regular and active protests against immigration,
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and so what I gleaned from this Whitopia is what a hot debate this would become.
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It was a real-time preview, and so it has become.
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Next stop: Almost Heaven, a cabin I rented for myself
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in Coeur d'Alene, in the beautiful North Idaho panhandle.
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I rented this place for myself, also by phone.
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(Laughter)
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The book "A Thousand Places To See Before You Die" lists Coeur d'Alene --
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it's a gorgeous paradise for huntsmen, boatmen and fishermen.
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My growing golf skills came in handy in Coeur d'Alene.
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I golfed with retired LAPD cops.
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In 1993, around 11,000 families and cops
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fled Los Angeles after the L.A. racial unrest,
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for North Idaho, and they've built an expatriated community.
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Given the conservatism of these cops,
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there's no surprise that North Idaho has a strong gun culture.
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In fact, it is said, North Idaho has more gun dealers than gas stations.
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So what's a resident to do to fit in?
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I hit the gun club.
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When I rented a gun, the gentleman behind the counter
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was perfectly pleasant and kind,
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until I showed him my New York City driver's license.
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That's when he got nervous.
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I'm not as bad a shot as I thought I might have been.
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What I learned from North Idaho is the peculiar brand of paranoia
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that can permeate a community when so many cops and guns are around.
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In North Idaho, in my red pickup truck,
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I kept a notepad.
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And in that notepad I counted more Confederate flags than black people.
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In North Idaho, I found Confederate flags
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on key chains, on cellphone paraphernalia,
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and on cars.
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About a seven-minute drive from my hidden lake cabin
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was the compound of Aryan Nations,
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the white supremacist group.
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America's Promise Ministries, the religious arm of Aryan Nations,
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happened to have a three-day retreat during my visit.
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So I decided to crash it.
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(Laughter)
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I'm the only non-Aryan journalist I'm aware of ever to have done so.
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(Laughter)
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Among the many memorable episodes of that retreat...
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(Laughter)
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...is when Abe, an Aryan, sidled up next to me.
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He slapped my knee, and he said, "Hey Rich, I just want you to know one thing.
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We are not white supremacists. We are white separatists.
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We don't think we're better than you,
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we just want to be away from you."
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(Laughter)
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Indeed, most white people in Whitopia are neither white supremacists
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or white separatists;
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in fact, they're not there for explicitly racial reasons at all.
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Rather, they emigrate there
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for friendliness, comfort, security, safety --
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reasons that they implicitly associate to whiteness in itself.
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Next stop was Georgia.
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In Georgia, I stayed in an exurb north of Atlanta.
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In Utah, I found poker;
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in Idaho, I found guns;
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in Georgia, I found God.
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(Laughter)
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The way that I immersed myself in this Whitopia
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was to become active at First Redeemer Church,
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a megachurch that's so huge that it has golf carts
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to escort the congregants around its many parking lots on campus.
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I was active in the youth ministry.
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And for me, personally, I was more comfortable in this Whitopia
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than say, in a Colorado, or an Idaho, or even a suburban Boston.
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That is because [there], in Georgia,
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white people and black people are more historically familiar to one another.
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I was less exotic in this Whitopia.
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(Laughter)
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But what does it all mean?
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Whitopian dreaming, Whitopia migration, is a push-pull phenomenon,
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full of alarming pushes and alluring pulls,
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and Whitopia operates at the level of conscious and unconscious bias.
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It's possible for people to be in Whitopia not for racist reasons,
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though it has racist outcomes.
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Many Whitopians feel pushed by illegals,
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social welfare abuse, minorities, density, crowded schools.
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Many Whitopians feel pulled by merit,
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freedom, the allure of privatism -- privatized places, privatized people,
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privatized things.
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And I learned in Whitopia how a country can have racism
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without racists.
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Many of my smug urban liberal friends
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couldn't believe I would go on such a venture.
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The reality is that many white Americans are affable and kind.
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Interpersonal race relations -- how we treat each other as human beings --
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are vastly better than in my parents' generation.
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Can you imagine me going to Whitopia 40 years ago?
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What a journey that would have been.
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(Laughter)
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And yet, some things haven't changed.
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America is as residentially and educationally segregated today
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as it was in 1970.
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As Americans, we often find ways to cook for each other,
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to dance with each other,
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to host with each other,
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but why can't that translate into how we treat each other as communities?
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It's a devastating irony,
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how we have gone forward as individuals,
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and backwards as communities.
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One of the Whitopian outlooks that really hit me
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was a proverbial saying:
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"One black man is a delightful dinner guest;
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50 black men is a ghetto."
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One of the big contexts animating my Whitopian journey was the year 2042.
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By 2042, white people will no longer be the American majority.
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As such, will there be more Whitopias?
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In looking at this,
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the danger of Whitopia is that the more segregation we have,
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the less we can look at and confront conscious and unconscious bias.
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I ventured on my two-year, 27,000 mile journey
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to learn where, why, and how white people are fleeing,
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but I didn't expect to have so much fun on my journey.
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(Laughter)
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I didn't expect to learn so much about myself.
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I don't expect I'll be living in a Whitopia --
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or a Blacktopia, for that matter.
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I do plan to continue golfing every chance I get.
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(Laughter)
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And I'll just have to leave the guns and megachurches back in Whitopia.
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Thank you.
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(Applause)
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